Randonnée authentique au Cap Vert
by Cassa
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Nous revenons de 20 jours au cap vert (5 îles sur les 10 : Fogo, Santiago, Sao Nicolau, Sao Vicente et Santo Antao), dont 15 j de rando, seuls ou avec un guide.
C'est de loin Santo Antao qui est l'île la plus belle pour randonner.
Nous avons trouvé une guide française, installée sur place à Ponta do Sol, qui connait bien l'île, sait expliquer plein de choses sur la vie capverdienne, la flore, .... nous emmène chez l'habitant loin des chemins battus (nous n'avons rencontré personne !), s'adapte à notre rythme et nos envies, pour une plongée dans le cap vert authentique.
Expérience inoubliable !
Je peux répondre à vos questions et vous donner ses coordonnées, si vous le désirez !
A vos chaussures !
Bonjour,
je suis partie en mai dernier sur SAN ANTAO et je retourne au Cap Vert pour deux semaines en janvier.
Je compte découvrir de nouveaux endroits de San Antao mais aussi passer 3 jours sur Sao Nicolaou en y allant par le ferry qui arrive le mardi pour repartir le vendredi
Mon guide et ami ne connait pas très bien Sao Nicolaou.
Pourriez-vous me dire ce qui est à faire absolument?
Je pensais forcément à l'ascension du Monte Gordo (je crois que cela se fait en 4 heures) ; on peut sans doute profiter ensuite de Tarrafal pour l'après-midi et le soir
Que faut-il privilégier pour deux journées pleines?
Merci d'avance de vos avis et conseils.
Marie
Nous sommes restés 3 j à Sao Nicolau, à la pension Jardim, très sympa.
Nous avons fait :
J1 : Covoada, Ribeira Funda et Estancias Bra (magnifique, très sauvage)
J2 : Monte Gordo et descente jusqu'a Ribeira Brava
J3 : de Tarrafal, plage de Baxo de Rocha : paysage pas top pour y aller, très caillouteux, mais jolie plage;
Si vous avez deux jours, je vous conseille les 2 premières balades.
Bonne marche !
bonsoir Cassa,
merci pour votre info.. je prends contact avec vous car je vais partir au Cap Vert le 31 octobre.. j'imagine que c'est un pays super sympa ! au fait aviez-vous fait le vaccin pour la fièvre jaune ? je n'ai pas encore regardé sur les sites pour savoir s'il est obligatoire..
un petit coucou d'Annecy !
à la prochaine
Nicole
Nicole
pas de vaccin nécessaire pour le Cap Vert!!! c'est chouette!
En revanche, à cause de la fièvre Ebola, ils ne laissent plus entrer les gens qui sont passés dans les 30 derniers jours par un des pays contaminés, et donc récemment par le Sénégal.
Sinon rien à faire côté santé! le Cap vert est safe! ;o)
et pour des randos authentiques, vous pouvez aussi essayer: arlindotrek.weebly.com
A bientot
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
merci beaucoup Chantal pour l'information ! si j'ai d'autres demandes, je me permettrai de revenir vers vous ! c'est amusant que vous habitiez Annecy ! je suis dans le quartier des Romains si jamais !
merci encore et peut-être à bientôt
Nicole
Nicole
Nous partons en octobre comme Nicole mais le 13.10 et j'habite tout près à Quintal ! Nous atterrissons à sao Vicente et je cherche un logement pour 2 pas trop cher car ensuite nous allons errer un mois! Si vous avez des bons plans je suis preneuse et moi je peux vous donner des pistes pour Cuba et l'Afrique du sud .. Merci
Sylvie
bonjour,
je voudrais bien vous aider mais je suis pas sûre de bien comprendre.
Vous cherchez un seul logement fixe pour un mois sur Sao Vicente? et de là vous voulez vous ballader ? ou bien vous cherchez juste un logement pour le soir de votre arrivée et ensuite vous allez improviser? si c'est juste pour une nuit à mindelo il y a des bons plans hyper pas chers (mais confort limité) a Cha de Cricket ou Chave d'ouro. genre une chambre double a 1500 esc, avec salle de bain privé au cha de cricket, et sdb partagée au chave d'ouro (pas d'eau chaude). Le chave d'ouro est pluscentral mais aussi plus bruyant et les chambres sous les toits son souvent tres chaudes. Sinon dans une gamme de prix un peu superieur, il y a le che guevara ou le jenny. et apres il y a encore au dessus, mais ca je en connais pas!!!
a dispo si besoin de plus d'infos!
suis pas silkoin non plus: Lausanne!!!
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Merci beaucoup. Le logement est juste pour une nuit ou 2 sur Mindelo et après toujours en itinérant sur Sao Nicolau et Sao Antao . J'ai vu sur le site mindelo infos chez Bibia donc chez habitant bon marché , cela peut être sympa pour le contact quartier Djisal , connaissez vous? et vive la très belle Suisse ! Sylvie
Sylvie
Bonjour Chantal
Je prévois de voyager à la rencontre du cap vert en Octobre 2014 seule . je viens vers vous car dans votre témoignage il parait net que vous avez apprécié ce voyage. J'aurai 15 jours avec l'envie de faire de la randonnée mais aussi profiter des belles plages en alternance . En tout cas , partant seule, je pense plus prudent d'être guidée Maio santo Antao et san Nicolau me tentent. En pratique est il possible de trouver un logement type pension pas trop chère et avec des locaux qui peuvent nous guider pour découvrir leur beau pays. Est ce que je vais pouvoir faire ces 3 îles sans perdre trop de temps dans les trajets avions? Faut il un visa? Et enfin tout de même y at'il lieu d'avoir peur? Bonne soirée à vous Aude P;S= je connais bien le Sénégal
Je prévois de voyager à la rencontre du cap vert en Octobre 2014 seule . je viens vers vous car dans votre témoignage il parait net que vous avez apprécié ce voyage. J'aurai 15 jours avec l'envie de faire de la randonnée mais aussi profiter des belles plages en alternance . En tout cas , partant seule, je pense plus prudent d'être guidée Maio santo Antao et san Nicolau me tentent. En pratique est il possible de trouver un logement type pension pas trop chère et avec des locaux qui peuvent nous guider pour découvrir leur beau pays. Est ce que je vais pouvoir faire ces 3 îles sans perdre trop de temps dans les trajets avions? Faut il un visa? Et enfin tout de même y at'il lieu d'avoir peur? Bonne soirée à vous Aude P;S= je connais bien le Sénégal
audelepoitevin
Bonjour,
Nous avons fait 5 iles en 3 semaines, je pense que 3 iles en 15 jours iront. Il faut voir les jours de vols inter iles pour faire votre programme. J'ai décrit + haut notre séjour à San Nicolao. Pour Santo Antao, je vous recommande notre guide (eolyne@gmx.com). Le visa peut se faire à l'aéroport. Nous nous sommes toujours sentis en sécurité. Bon voyage Chantal
Nous avons fait 5 iles en 3 semaines, je pense que 3 iles en 15 jours iront. Il faut voir les jours de vols inter iles pour faire votre programme. J'ai décrit + haut notre séjour à San Nicolao. Pour Santo Antao, je vous recommande notre guide (eolyne@gmx.com). Le visa peut se faire à l'aéroport. Nous nous sommes toujours sentis en sécurité. Bon voyage Chantal
Bonjour,
Je pars en octobre au cap vert pour 15 jours et j'envisage le parcours ci-dessous. Pouvez-vous me dire si cela est réaliste ? Aviez vous réservé les vols internes en avance ? est-il préférable de prendre des bateaux ?
Merci de votre aide ! Et si vous avez des logements à recommander n'hésiter pas :-) Cassandre
Arrivé Boa vista - direction de suite ile de sal (3 jours) Santo Antao - 5 jours Fogo/sao vicente - 3 jours Boa vista - 3 jours
Je pars en octobre au cap vert pour 15 jours et j'envisage le parcours ci-dessous. Pouvez-vous me dire si cela est réaliste ? Aviez vous réservé les vols internes en avance ? est-il préférable de prendre des bateaux ?
Merci de votre aide ! Et si vous avez des logements à recommander n'hésiter pas :-) Cassandre
Arrivé Boa vista - direction de suite ile de sal (3 jours) Santo Antao - 5 jours Fogo/sao vicente - 3 jours Boa vista - 3 jours
Bonjour,
Je ne connais pas Boa Vista mais il parait que c'est très beau.
Fogo/Sao Vicente en 3j, c'est court mais ça dépend de ce que vous voulez faire à Fogo. Nous y sommes restés pour 1j le volcan et le 2ème jour la descente à Mosteiros.
Nous avions réservé (par cap vert rando) tous les vols interieurs car les capverdiens se déplacent beaucoup en été.
Je ne connais pas la situation à votre période.
bon voyage !
petite précision: Santiago est le passage obligé pour Fogo (qu'on peut rejoindre en avion ou en bateau) et Sao Vicente est le passage obligé pour Santo Antao (en bateau uniquement)!!!
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Bonjour,
je suis allée au Cap-Vert il y a 2 ans et j'ai fait la traversée Mindelo -> Sao Nicolau. Le couchsurfer cap-verdien qui m'hébergeait n'en revenait pas que je veuille prendre le bateau plutôt que l'avion et je ne vous cache pas que ça a été une sacrée expérience ! Un vieux rafiot dans lequel on était très secoué... Le seul et unique moyen de ne pas être malade est de faire comme les locaux : se coucher par terre en se couvrant la tête pour ne surtout pas voir la mer. Cela dit, le personnel distribue des sacs en plastique en montant sur le bateau. Sinon, vérifiez bien les dates de traversée car ça ne correspondait pas à ce que je j'avais pu lire sur internet avant d'être sur place. A noter aussi que nous sommes partis avec 4 heures de retard (donc j'ai passé la moitié de la nuit dans la gare maritime).
Sur Sao Nicolau, si vous avez l'occasion, allez faire un tour (voiture nécessaire) dans l'est de l'île pour voir la Lagoa de Juncalinho et la plage de Carrical.
Bon voyage au Cap-Vert (j'y retourne mi-janvier pour ma part)
Assikel
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I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
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The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
Source code: https://github.com/patricklmarie/GPX-Route-Planner Online demo: https://patricklmarie.github.io/GPX-Route-Planner/
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
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Thanks! :)
I’m looking for half-day hikes near Karakol (not Jety-Oguz, since I’ll be heading there separately—max 30 minutes’ drive to the trailhead).
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We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
Pascal
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.






