32 jours sur place du 12 juin au 13 juillet 2009
Infos generales
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- Temps: bien meilleur que prevu. 20 jours de temps superbe (doux, soleil, en T-shirt, parfois vent) contre 5 de temps execrable
- Pas mal de touristes, deja mi-juin. La plupart voyagent en vehicule de location et se retouvent tous sur le meme circuit.
- Budget: 750 euros sur place, dont plus de la moitie en transport.
- Nourriture: supermarches Bonus. Pas plus cher qu'en Belgique. Les Samkaup, 10/11, ... sont beaucoup plus chers. A Reykjavik, Akureyri, restos bon marche. A Reykjavik, thailandais Nudluhusid dans la rue commercante au-dessus du Bonus (7 ou 8 euros). A Akureyri, thailandais Krum Siam (buffet 8 euros).
- Camping: souvent belles prairies. Mais peu de toilettes et douches. Tres frequentes, surtout vacanciers islandais. 800 a 1000 kr par personne. Reykjavik: tres bien, dans un parc. Beaux campings dans la nature: Skaftafell, Tungudalur a Isafjordur, Hanrar a Akuryyri, aussi au lac Myvatn
- Vols interieurs Air Iceland. Tres bon marche si achat longtemps a l'avance sur le Net (moins de 30 euros le vol, bien moins que le bus). Bus: cher.
RANDOS
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1°) Skogar Lannmanalaugar. Tres frequente en haute saison. La partie Skogar Thorsmork en vaut la peine mais, en debut de saison, il y a un passge de 10 metres de neige tres raide delicat. J'ai fait du camping sauvage plusieurs nuits bien qu'interdit. 25 heures de temps reel de marche au total. A Skogar, suivre la riviere en haur des chutes, on passe de nombreuses autres cascades, tres beau. Un refuge en tres mauvais etat a 4 heures de Skogar (il y en a un autre moderne mais je n'y suis pas alle). A Thorsmork le pont pietonnier n'est plus operationnel, il faut demander a un vehicule de vous traverser.
2°) Hvitarnes Hveratellir. Facile, tres tranquille, grands espaces possible en 48 heures (pour les bus). Refuges vides ici.
3°) Asbyrgi Dettifoss. Possible en 24 heures (pour les bus), si on fait du camping sauvage (interdit). Fin superbe, prendre le chemin dit difficile par la corde (pas tres difficile en fait).
4°) Hornstrandir. Vraiment exceptionnel. Peu de monde, meme personne en dehors des points touristiques comme Hornvik et Hesteyri. Il faut reserver le bateau aller et retour au depart d'Isafjordur. www.vesturferdir.is. J'ai fait Hesteyri dimanche soir a Hrafnfjordur samedi midi, y compris un detour sur la calotte glaciaire de Drankajokull. Mon meilleur conseil de ce voyage.
J'ai pris le bateau dimanche apres-midi pour Hesteyvi et j'ai marche via Hornvik et Bolungarvik jusqu'a Hrafnfjordur ou le bateau est venu me prendre samedi midi. C'est un itineraire facile en 5 jours si on a du beau temps, et j'ai fait un detour pour monter une 1/2 journee sur la calotte glaciaire du Drankajokull. Du cote de Hornvik, il y a quelques touristes (campeurs egelemnt 2 ou 3 maisons et l'auberge au phare), mais sur le reste de la rando vraiment personne. Plein d'oiseaux, aussi renards polaires, falaises de 530 m de haut, plages desertes, vallees vertes et lagons, ... vraiment sauvage. Exceptionnel en Europe pour une cote (n'existe nulle part ailleurs a mon avis). A part a Hornvik ou on peut seulement camper a 2 endroits, sur le reste le camping sauvage est libre.
J'imagine que tu annonces ton itinéraire en partant, pour que le bateau vienne te chercher. mais du coup, en cas de mauvais temps, par ex., ou de retard, ça se passe comment?
Tu dois reserver le bateau a l'avance, et ils viennent te chercher. Bon, parfois ils viendront en retard par ex. s'il y a tempete ne mer. A plusieurs points du trek, notamment la ou ils m'ont repris en bateau (j'y etais tout seul), il y a des 'huttes de secours' avec une radio, d'ou tu peux appeler si tu as de gros problemes ou si le bateau n'arrive pas.
Si tu veux un trek plus court, tu peux envisager Hornvik a Hrafnfjordur (ou inversement). Pour un trek plus long, tu peux commencer/finir a Adalvik. Tu dois regarder les jours des bateaux sur www.vesturferdir.is. Par ex. sur Hrafnfjordur (que je conseille fortement comme point de depart ou d'arrivee) il y a seulement un bateau le samedi. On vend de bonnes cartes de rando pour Hornstrandir en Islande.
J'ai trouve une bonne carte de Hornstrandir en Google a : travel.valek.net/browse.cgi?cp=4&map=h
Les bateaux viennent donc a l'extremite (E) du fjord marque 'Hrafnsfjordur' sur cette carte, a 2 km a l'Est du point indique 'Skipeyri'. De la tu traverses a Furufjordur, puis le sentier suit la cote (et traverse diverses cretes) vers le Nord Ouest ... Bolungarvik ... Bardsvik jusqu'aux falaises de Hornbjarg et la baie d'Hornvik. Ensuite la cote jusqu'au dela de Budir et on traverse le col pour Hesteyri (ce que j'explique la, c'est le sens inverse de ce que j'ai fait).
Je suis alle a Isafjordur en avion. Mais comme j'ai achete mes billets 4 mois a l'avance, je n'ai paye que 30 euros pour l'aller et 50 pour le retour. De toutes facons, en bus c'est tres cher aussi.
La plupart des sentiers sont balises, soit par des batons (le sentier qui suit la cote Nord Est est bien visible de toutes facons), soit avec de vieux cairns en pierre.
Pour faire cette rando, il faut partir avec 6 jours de nourriture + l'aquippement de camping en prevoyant un temps plutot froid, pluie et grand vent. TOut cela fait minimum 20 kg, dans mon cas plutot 23 kg au depart.
Oui le Hornstrandir est vraiment sympa, c'est superbe, il ya presque personne, on peut y voir des renard des phoques et des tonnes d'oiseaux.
Par contre même s'il y a la foule la rando Landmannalaugar -Skogar vaut la peine d'etre faite, c'est superbe et vraiment tres different comme paysages.
Alors, de retour d'Islande, et notamment du Hornstrandir, quelques infos :
On est arrivés à Isafjördur le 16 août, c'était la toute fin de saison (le dernier bateau pour hornvik, ou le dernier bateau depuis reykjafjordur étaient déjà partis).
Arrivés en avion, nous n'avions pas de gaz, et la station service d'isafjordur n'avait que tu primus (pour nous : camping gaz). on part en cata et en stop pour bolungarvik, d'où part un bateau le soir même pour adalvik. problème, la station service ouverte n'a pas de gaz. l'autre est fermée, on est dimanche. un passage au bar sur le port plus tard, la patronne passe quelques coups de fil et nous annonce que le gérant de la station service arrive - et il a du camping gaz.
Première journée superbe entre adalvik et flotavik, grand soleil, pas de vent. comme les sacs sont lourds, le dénivelé important et les pentes raides, on décide de modifier notre parcours et d'aller directement sur heysteri, sans passer par hornvik. la journée fljotavik-hauteurs de heysteri est superbe, même si on galère un peu dans le pierrier au-dessus du fljotavatn. fin d'après-midi, il commence à pleuvoir, on monte la tente sur les hauteurs plutôt que de descendre à heysteri.
La pluie s'intensifie dans la nuit, et au matin, on attend une éclaircie pour partir. Elle ne vient pas, on se met donc en route en fin de matinée. Arrivée à Heysteri, on découvre un café, avec des dortoirs, mais on décide de monter la tente. La pluie s'intensifie, on part voir les ruines de l'ancienne usine de baleines et harrengs. On est trempés et frigorifiés. De retour au café, la "patronne" (veuve d'un ancien habitant du village d'Heysteri, abandonné en 1952) nous dit qu'il est hors de question qu'on dorme dehors, vu le temps qui s'annonce : tempête. On se réjouit d'avoir modifié notre parcours, et de ne pas être quelque part vers Hornvik. Je pars chercher la tente, de l'autre côté du torrent. L'eau est bien montée, et atteint désormais presque le pont de fortune qui permet de traverser tout confort (elle étant largement 50 cm sous le pont 3 heures avant). La tente est trempée (le vent souffle fort, les gouttes s'infiltrent donc par le bas).
3 heures plus tard, le pont est emporté par les flots.
Entre temps, deux allemandes sont arrivées, bien mouillés.
Et, régulièrement, d'autres randonneurs nous rejoignent, de plus en plus mouillés - notamment pour veux qui arrivent depuis hornvik, contraints de franchir la rivière maintenant déchaînée. Un tchèque nous rejoint le lendemain, après avoir passé 36 heures dans un col, sous sa tente, qu'il finit par abandonner voyant que la tempête empire.
2 jours et demi au chaud, donc, autour du poëlle, pendant que Vilma (la "patronne") nous raconte la vie à Heysteri, du temps du village (elle n'y passe que l'été, plus personne n'habite là toute l'année). Le soleil revient, le temps est superbe, les phoques de sortie... mais on reprend le bateau le soir même.
Bref, le Hornstrandir est vraiment une région incroyable, magnifique, coupée du monde. À part quelques maisonnettes, occupées quelques semaines l'été, il n'y a personne, que des randonneurs. C'est superbe, mais les conditions météo peuvent changer très vite, et transformer un énorme plaisir en grosse galère - nous, nous avons eu la chance de trouver un abri au tout début de la tempête.
C'est vrai que dans le Hornstrandir nous avons eu du vent à ne pas tenir debout, nous n'avions pas de vrai tente mais un abri MSR (twin sisters ) seult 824g pour 2 places , maintenant je suis rassuré sur sa capacité à tenir au vent :)
et pour un blog racontant leur rando dans le Horsntrandir , c'ets un peu potache mais cela donne une idée.
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July.
I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
Can anyone give me some info on this?
Thanks!
hi how can I get internet when I arrive at Haneda? I mean in areas without free wifi. Is it more interesting to buy a SIM card? If so, at the airport? thanks for your help
We're planning to go at the end of November/beginning of December to visit (with a rental car) and hike on La Palma and El Hierro for 15 full days, including 1 day for inter-island ferry transfers. What’s the best split between the two islands—8 days on La Palma and 6 on El Hierro, or even more time for La Palma? Should we have one or two home bases on La Palma? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi there,
I’m planning to cross the Gourgs Blancs Pass at the end of the month, from La Soula Refuge to Portillon Refuge. On this section near the pass, I don’t have any trail marked on my IGN map. Is the path well signposted, or should I use a compass?
Also, beyond the physical effort, are there any technical, exposed, or vertigo-inducing sections on this part?
Since I’m finding very little info, I’m being thorough with my questions.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
hi there
I’m heading to Uzbekistan for three weeks from mid-September to mid-October 2026—a country I haven’t visited yet.
I’d love to do a few multi-day hikes in the mountains without going through a tour operator or hiring a guide. Has anyone here done this?
It doesn’t have to be all trekking; day hikes are great too.
I’m open to any tips!
Also, I see there are lots of train options if you book well in advance—does that only apply to the "fast" trains? Are there buses as well?
Hello,
In mid-November, we’ll be in Mindelo and Santo Antão.
We’ve booked transportation with Kapverden Tours.
One trip is from Porto Novo to Ponta do Sol, including the hike from Corda to Coculi.
What’s the trail like?
Then we’ll be staying in Ponta do Sol,
Here’s what we’re planning:
A hike to Fontainhas—what’s the best direction, considering we’re not great with climbs? No problem with flat terrain or descents.
Take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande and continue along the coastal road.
With the agency:
An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk.
Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening.
We’ll have a guide for this hike.
We’d love to spend a day in Tarrafal, but getting back requires a boat or taxi, and it’s really expensive!
We’re a couple, 78 and 76 years old.
What do you think of this itinerary?
Not very well known: Hokkaido Island has national parks that rival those in North America. Hiking there is free (even many mountain huts) and requires no formalities. These treks are described in the LP *Hiking in Japan* guide—you can just buy the Hokkaido PDF. It’s way better than Mount Fuji. Of course, everything depends on the weather, which is very unstable in the Japanese mountains (frequent strong winds). The trails are often obstacle courses.
The Daisetsu Zan traverse is a stunning hike through volcanic terrain with a remote section in the middle that requires at least one night of camping (there are basic huts for the rest, which is popular with Japanese hikers): 4 to 6 days.
The Shiretoko traverse takes 2 days with views including an island in Russia, but the ridge is brown bear territory—there are even more here than in Denali National Park in Alaska (brown bears and grizzlies are the same). I ran into 7 in just 6 hours of hiking!
Hi everyone,
I’m leaving on Monday, August 3rd for my very first long-distance trek: the GR223 from Coutances to Mont Saint-Michel, over 6-7 days (~11-14 miles/day), solo.
I’m looking for tips from people who know this section well (Coutances → Regnéville-sur-Mer → Hauteville-sur-Mer → Bréhal → Granville → Genêts → bay crossing):
Budget-friendly accommodations: I’m struggling to find affordable stopover lodgings (a lot of what I find online are expensive vacation rentals, not really suited for a solo hiker). If you have any great spots (hostels, hiker-friendly B&Bs, nice campgrounds), I’d love to hear them!
Bay crossing: Any feedback on guides/providers leaving from Genêts for the final crossing?
General tips for a first long-distance trek: What you wish you’d known before your first time, pitfalls to avoid, etc.
Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge.
I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle.
In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details:
We arrive in early August and leave in early September.
We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery!
We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat?
Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations.
Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there?
A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions?
For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip...
Thanks for your tips!
Have a great day,
Anie, Toulouse
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice?
Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish.
I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips?
Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina?
At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
