Salut Dominique !
Je te rappelle que Ibn Tulum , c'était lors de notre 1er séjour et qu'on était déjà très fiers d'avoir trouvé ! Puis , comme tu dis, sur le plan , la maison était collée , mais , après avoir décrit des cercles concentriques, de + en + grands , on n'a pas vu et personne ne connaissait ... On est parti tristement ...
Que les égyptiens ne disent pas 'non' : le 2ème jour de cette expérience , on hèle un taxi et on demande 'les pyramides' ; le chauffeur n'a pas l'air de réagir , j'ai l'idée de dire Gizeh et je propose : 30 Leg . Il dit oui, démarre , roule un moment puis se retourne et demande gentiment : Gizeh foundouk ?
Mon mari , dans le vague , dit 'yes' ...
Au bout d'un moment , je Dis 'non' et je mime la forme d'une pyramide avec les mains . Alors , il hèle un passant bien habillé pour qu'on demande, en anglais , où on allait... Et on redémarre : nous étions assez désespérés mais je suivais sur une carte et , juste avant le carrefour vers Alexandrie , le chauffeur se retourne, très fier, tourne à gauche et dit : voilà !!! Puis , va demander le prix réel de la courseà un collègue : 50 Leg ...
wouaf ... wouaf ... waouaf c'est cela le tourisme à "l'arrache" 😏
mais après, il ne faut pas se plaindre (je ne dis pas que tu te plains ... tu relates 😉)
HAUT les Coeurs 😎
tes "con"centriques, tu les as fait trop loin,
si le 1er se serait trouvé à moins de 20 mètres, tu aurais trouvé ce fichu musée 😛
pour le caire islamique je recopie les lignes de lonely planet : " mais ce quartier , ni plus ni moins islamique que le reste de la capitale doit son surnom au fait que , pendant de nombreux siecles , il fut l un des centres du pouvoir islamique ou se liaient des intrigues commerciales et politiques " .
on ne mesure pas sa vie au nombre de respirations qu on a prises mais au nombre de lieux et de moments qui nous ont coupé le souffle ( inconnu )
pour le caire islamique je recopie les lignes de lonely planet : " mais ce quartier , ni plus ni moins islamique que le reste de la capitale doit son surnom au fait que , pendant de nombreux siecles , il fut l un des centres du pouvoir islamique ou se liaient des intrigues commerciales et politiques " .
n'y aurait-il pas confusion entre
- Caire Islamique (!) ... celui là n'a pas de délimitations bien définies
- Caire Fatimide (?) dont l'épi-centre, est le "Khân al-Khalîlî", dont peut en délimiter facilement le périmètre 😉
enfin, ce n'est pas grave ... sauf pour le "piéton" ... 😉
Coucou ,
Juste pour monter mon érudition : connais-tu , au Caire , le Musée Mahmoud - Khalil ( pas loin du Sheraton ) ?
Celui-là , on l'a trouvé ...à pied et la visite était un plaisir : belle maison du début XXème s., au bord du Nil, pleine d'oeuvres d'art françaises pour la plupart : un riche collectionneur (épouse française ) qui avait profité de la débâcle de 1929 pour enrichir ses collections .
Plus de gardiens que de visiteurs, il y a 4 ans : il y avait, à part nous, un couple de 'jeunes' égyptiens un peu 'bobos'.
Un endroit exceptionnel ...et inattendu !
Bon dimanche !
salut Brigittece musée a fait tres gros scandale il y a moins de 2 ans ...en effet une super mega peinture a été dérobée en pleine journée : les coquelicots de Van gogh !!
rien de moins !!http://musee-oh.museologie.over-blog.com/article-vol-au-musee-un-jeu-d-enfant-55899474.htmlapparement , le voleur est entré en pleine journée,
s'est déjoué des gardiens qui dormaient dans leur coin pour pousser un divan sous le tableau,
le décrocher tranquillement, le rouler et s'en aller avec le toile sous le bras ...il leur aurait fallu la journée et un autre visiteur pour trouver bizarre ce cadre vide !!
de fait quasi plus aucune caméra ne fonctionnait , et personne ne surveillait !!depuis hélas et du coup, le musée est fermé !!!
quasi plus aucune caméra ne fonctionnait , et personne ne surveillait !!depuis hélas et du coup, le musée est fermé !!!
bien entendu, je la connaissais cette "saga" ... le plus beau (enfin, façon de parler ...) il avait "DÉJÀ" été volé en 1977 au même endroit, et disparu durant 10 ans ... 😛
question à toi Kattty; le musée Islamique du Caire, EST-IL OUVERT, ou pas ?
quand je dis "OUVERT", ce n'est pas en ... théorie, par exemple ...
- en août 2010; réouverture du musée, après 8 ans de fermeture, en présence du Président de l'époque
- en octobre 2010; avec des amis égyptiens, qui ne l'avaient jamais visité, je les embraque pour passer un bon moment ...
j'adore ce musée aussi, et j'étais frustré par toutes ces années de fermeture ... mais une fois sur place, les gardiens hilares, m'ont dit;
réouverture pour Moubarak, oui ... pour les visiteurs ... "sine die" 😇
Je l'avais appris aussi ( 2 ans après notre visite ...) et n'avais pas été très étonnée : musée et gardiens 'assoupis' , tout comme en dehors du temps , ...
connais-tu , au Caire , le Musée Mahmoud - Khalil ( pas loin du Sheraton ) ?
Celui-là , on l'a trouvé ...à pied et la visite était un plaisir : belle maison du début XXème s.
Oui Brigitte, je le connaissais 😉
le Caire est vraiment très riche en architecture diverses, que l'on ne peut découvrir qu'à pieds,
mais parfois, surtout en ce qui concerne le Khan Kalill, il ne faut pas hésiter à partir dans les étages, pour découvrir des choses étonnantes
en prenant quartier par quartier, ceux qui ont une histoire, on trouve des endroits intéressants
- dans le quartier du "Khan" - la rue "Al Moski" au Moyen-Age s’appelait; rue "Al Franqui" (pas certain de l'orthographe) qui signifiait; le rue des "Francs" (Européens)
puis, les étrangers, ont émigré vers un autre quartier, plus moderne (!) "Chobra"
puis, émigration, encore, vers toujours plus moderne "Héliopolis"
mais les maisons, ne se sont pas transportées, aussi, l'ont peu découvrir lorsque l'on a du temps devant soit (c'est évident), de véritables trésors ... sous une "patine" (doux euphémisme) des siècles passés
- vers "Zetoun" derrière le palais "Kobba" nombre de villas très "art déco", qui furent édifiées par des dignitaires de la cour
même avec mon long passé dans cette ville, avec toujours cet esprit curieux qui m'anime, je découvre encore des choses que je n'avais pas vu précédemment 😛
bonjour Dominique.
je me permets de relancer ce post après un voyage de 2 mois au Laos.
comme tu étais très surpris du virage pris par l Egypte je t avais demandé si tu pouvais faire un point quand tu y retournerais.
est il trop tot ?
on ne mesure pas sa vie au nombre de respirations qu on a prises mais au nombre de lieux et de moments qui nous ont coupé le souffle ( inconnu )
bonjour Dominique.
je me permets de relancer ce post après un voyage de 2 mois au Laos.
comme tu étais très surpris du virage pris par l Egypte je t avais demandé si tu pouvais faire un point quand tu y retournerais.
est il trop tot ?
Bonsoir ...
c'est bien la soirée à me poser cette question ... 😇 ... cela se "fritte" sévère devant la Palais El Kobha, entre "pro et anti"
comme d'habitude, je vais répondre sans langue de bois ... 😉
- bien malin, en tout cas pas moi, qui est, ou sera capable de faire un pronostic sur la suite de cette aventure
voici deux mois, que nous sommes revenus, et pas plus avancés 😛
- je ne sais qui sera les gagnants, mais je connais dore et déjà les perdants ... les Égyptiens eux même 😕
j'ai bien entendu enregistré pas mal de changements dans la vie de tout les jours, mais cela ne touche que les autochtones
les touristes, sont (et DOIVENT rester) tenus à l'écart de ce "grand bazar"
je pense que peut-être le 15/12 devrait être décisif ... en que;
tout est possible y compris, et plus spécialement l'impossible ...
mon axiome préférer pour expliquer, ces pays du Moyen-Orient 😉
dont acte Katty 😐
je vais prendre cela en compte dorénavant
donc, je fais amende honorable 😊
me rendant compte qu'une absence de 24 mois, a été très préjudiciable à mes connaissances 😛
de pratiques, elle sont passées théoriques ... malheureusement 🤪
excuse moi Dominique mais en posant ma question je pensais plus au changement de comportement des egyptiens par rapport à la femme ( egyptienne ou étrangère ) ou au touriste qui avait lancé cet interminable post avec beaucoup de doutes du témoignage ( y compris moi meme ).
on ne mesure pas sa vie au nombre de respirations qu on a prises mais au nombre de lieux et de moments qui nous ont coupé le souffle ( inconnu )
excuse moi Dominique mais en posant ma question je pensais plus au changement de comportement des egyptiens par rapport à la femme ( egyptienne ou étrangère )
le femme Égyptienne s'est "NOIRCIE" un max ... 😛
en France on fait la réclame de ce qui lave plus blanc que le blanc, pour reprendre un poncif à la Coluche 😛
ici, c'est à celle qui sera habillée plus noir, que noir, Mais Alexandrie, bat Le Caire à ce petit jeu ...
aussi grand étonnement à Alex, pas au Caire, le nombre de mendiantes habillées avec le "niqab"
je n'avais JAMAIS vu cela en Égypte précédemment 🤪
donc, au moins dans l'habillement, le salafisme, fait un "tabac" ...
mes amies égyptiennes, m'ont demandé de ne les inviter "QUE" de jour, le soir elles ne veulent plus sortir 😛
aux niveau égyptien/égyptouze beaucoup de bruits, sur des actes d'agressions divers;
- car-jacking, avec chauffeur exécuté, car ne voulait pas lâcher son véhicule
- enlèvements de jeunes filles suivis de viol
- salafistes d'opportunité dans les régions rurales, qui mettent les paysans "à l'amande" s'ils n'acceptent de payer, pour une protection
le sentiment d'insécurité des ÉGYPTIENS est très largement présent
mais je le répète, RIEN au niveau des touristes, jusqu'à présent 😛
J ai réservé un séjour de fin octobre 2025 a début novembre au barcelo tiran hotel a sharm el sheikh, je voyage seule, évidemment je me baladerais pas seule.…
On m'a souvent dit que voyager seule en Égypte en tant que femme pouvait être dangereux, qu'il fallait absolument être accompagnée. Est-ce vraiment le cas?…
I’m heading back to Egypt for the first time in 30 years this July. Last time, I was 20, and we spent two weeks traveling on a shoestring as backpackers.
I’m wondering about a "cruise" on a felucca from Aswan—mainly to avoid being stuck in an air-conditioned tourist bubble (we’re already spending our first week in that setting with our diving club). We’d like to explore the most interesting stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Do you have any thoughts on this option, tips, or maybe some contacts?
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
