Three Passes Trek in Nepal

Just a few points: Guide or porter-guide... Many will tell you it's unnecessary, which is true for an experienced hiker. But it's useful (whether or not you have a porter) as a guide for certain sections (like crossing the Chola Pass), getting info from locals and other guides about glacier conditions, finding accommodations, negotiating prices, and—most importantly—organizing rescue if something goes wrong (it can happen). As for freedom, they adapt... In short, it's always helpful, it makes things easier, and it's not very expensive compared to the overall cost of a trip to Nepal. Especially since they really need the work—tourism is the only thing keeping the country going, so... Difficulty: No problem = just the altitude. You might be more trained than people from the plains, but that's not necessarily the issue. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) can happen to anyone, even strong or experienced hikers. It depends on your current form, a bunch of factors... Follow acclimatization advice: gradual ascent, sleep at a lower altitude than your highest point of the day, etc. (including meds—homeopathic Coca or allopathic Diamox). And if it happens anyway (it's rare, but it happened to me in 2016), just be aware, don’t push too far, and be ready to turn back. Weather: Check the usual breakdowns (in trek catalogs)—they don’t change much. Factor in the risk of Lukla-KTM flight cancellations. Good idea to take time to "chill"... But the LUKLA-NAMCHE-Base Camp route has become a nightmare in season: everyone crowds it, and in peak season, it’s like the La Flégère-Lac Blanc trail in Chamonix. So, take time around Gokyo or in the beautiful Chukung area instead. Happy planning.

The Cho La is dangerous in bad weather. It's doable without a guide if the weather's good (I've done the Three Passes circuit solo three times), but if the weather's bad, it's much wiser to hire one for the day in Dzonglha or join a group (by paying their guide at the end of the day). Alternatively, you could just wait until the next day or take the route via Phortse (which adds 1 to 2 days). (It's always a good idea to have microspikes for the glacier crossing—it's not always mandatory, but just in case... The first two times I crossed, the glacier was snow-covered, so no problem, but the last time, it was just hard ice at the end... 🤪)

Otherwise, a guide isn't necessary for the rest of the trek, though as mentioned above, it can have its advantages. Personal choice. 😛

Watch out for the descent on the Lobuche side of Kongma La—it can also be a pain if there's a lot of snow or bad weather... Renjo La, on the other hand, is the easiest of the three, especially from Gokyo.

Thanks for your replies.

So, to recap, the guide isn’t necessary, but it’s good to have one. I didn’t know I could hire one for the day in Dzonghla—that seems like the best option for me. Negotiating with a group to join them and pay the guide could also be a good solution.

For altitude sickness, I’ve planned to spend 2 days in Namche, 2 days around 4,000m, and take short stages (around 4-5 hours of walking per day). That should work out okay.

I was planning to buy microspikes just in case—they’re not a big investment and they help a lot. I’ll actually buy them in France; I’ve seen quite a few issues with breakage for those bought directly on-site.

At the risk of repeating myself, does anyone have a time estimate? I’m wondering about booking the Lukla-Kathmandu flight tickets. I don’t want to rush back for fear of missing my flight—I’d rather stay in Lukla for 2 days waiting ^^.

Thanks, have a great evening

For acclimatization, you’ve got plenty of options: the Ama Dablam base camp above Pangboche, the Taboche viewpoint (also above Pangboche), and that little hill above Dingboche whose name I’ve forgotten. This way, you’ll arrive in Chukkung already pretty well acclimatized, and you won’t have to spend a full day doing nothing in Pangboche or Dingboche...

As for the time, it all depends on whether you plan to do a lot of side treks or not... (there are *tons* to do besides the classics like Gokyo Ri, Kala Patthar, and Chukkung Ri). Some agencies offer it in 14 or 15 days (Lukla-Lukla), but that’s way too short for everything there is to see up there... Between 20 and 25 days (L-L) is more reasonable for acclimatization, hikes, and the weather. 😛 (if you’ve got the time, of course)

Difficulty level—I think I have the fitness for it, being athletic and used to mountain hiking in France, but is there any specific training? Just to note, I did the Annapurna Base Camp last year without any issues.

Physical condition is important, but not the only factor. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) doesn’t really depend on your fitness level. I got it when I was young and competing in athletics at a regional/national level, while my wife, who isn’t very sporty, never did. With age and in similar conditions, I haven’t had it again. The key—especially if you’re athletic—is to take it easy and keep a pace below your limits (we always tend to go too fast) and to acclimatize properly without rushing. Don’t forget that Annapurna Base Camp is only around 4,000m, while the Three Passes in the Khumbu and Kala Patthar are above 5,000m.

Is it doable without a guide? I admit I’d prefer to skip a guide and porter to have full freedom of movement. Is that crazy, or is it common? I’m mostly concerned about the Cho La and Renjo La passes (more about the route and risk of getting lost than safety).

If you’re not doing the passes: Going to Gokyo via the Dudh Koshi Valley and returning the same way, then heading to EBC and Kala Patthar is doable without a guide. If you’re doing the passes, it’s also manageable if the weather is good and the passes are well-marked—meaning no recent fresh snow. Otherwise, it can become tricky to find the right path, and even dangerous if visibility is poor, especially at Cho La where you cross a glacier section. So yes, a guide is recommended. A porter might be enough if they know these passes well, like those who accompany expeditions to the summits, but many porters have no experience...

How much time should I plan for the trek to be safe, even if it means spending 2-3 days hanging around Lukla-Namche? I was thinking of allowing 20 days—does that sound right?

There’s not much point in hanging around between Lukla and Namche—you can do that stretch in two relaxed days. But from Namche and above, yes, it’s worth it. Don’t forget (headaches will remind you!) to take an acclimatization day in Namche. 20 days is enough, as long as you fly in and out of Lukla

AMS doesn’t depend too much on fitness level.

I’d even say the fitter you are at hiking, the more at risk you are for AMS.

The reason is that you’re then able to climb very quickly in a single day. Too able. A less experienced hiker, or someone older, will climb more slowly and give their body more time to acclimatize to the altitude.

Most victims of altitude sickness are young. Maybe not patient enough for a gradual ascent. Or maybe with age comes experience and more caution.

The key, especially when you're fit, is to take it easy and keep a pace below your capabilities (we always tend to go too fast) and to acclimatize properly without skipping steps.

++++

A risk I’m not worried about... 😉

Fabrice

the small hill above Dingboche whose name I’ve forgotten

I think you’re referring to Nangkar Tshang Ri. Not that small, that hill! Unless you mean the ridge near Nangkar Tshang Gonpa (5,035 m).

Fabrice

How much time should I allow for the trek to be on the safe side? (...) I was thinking of planning for 20 days—does that sound good to you?

For reference, here’s the itinerary I followed last December.

D0: Bus from Kathmandu to Changhestan (3,000 m, between Dhap Bazar and Pattale, on the Salleri road). D1: Trek to Pikey Dairy (3,640 m). Not recommended for acclimatization, but I’m lucky to be less sensitive to altitude. D2: Junbesi via Pikey Peak (wide panorama up to Kanchenjunga) D3: Phuleli (village after Nunthale) D4: Paiya D5: Monjo D6: Namche Bazar (3,440 m) D7: Khumjung → Phortse (3,810 m). Doesn’t follow the recommendation to spend 2 nights around 3,500 m. A bit risky due to crossing Mong La (3,975 m) beforehand. Still, you can sleep at a slightly lower altitude in Phortse Thanga (3,600 m). D8: Pangboche, side trip to Ama Dablam BC. D9: Dingboche via Tabuche Kharka and Pheriche. Side trip to Nangkar Tshang Gonpa. D10: Chhukhung, side trip to Chhukhung Ri. D11: Side trip to Island Peak BC. On D12, I’d planned an extra day in Chhukhung to hike toward Amphu Lapcha BC, but I preferred to join a group heading for Kongma La. D12: Kongma La → Lobuche D13: Gorakshep, side trip to EBC. I’d planned to do Kala Patthar at sunset, but the weather turned overcast, and I had to give up. D14: Dzonglha. Side trip to Kala Patthar in the morning. D15: Gokyo via Cho La. D16: Gokyo. Side trips to 5th Lake and Gokyo Ri. D17: Lungden via Renjo La D18: Thame, visit the gonpa and surroundings. D19: Thame, side trip to Thyangbo, toward Tashi Lapcha La. D20: Bengkar D21: Paiya. I could’ve kept going, but I was held up by a violent hailstorm. D22: Gaikharka, toward Tumlingtar D23: Gudel D24: Jaubari D25: Chyawabesi The next day: shared jeep to Itahari, then overnight transport to Kathmandu.

Done without a guide or porter. I only had route issues twice: 1. On the side trip to Island Peak BC. Probably missed a turn on a moraine. 2. After crossing Kongma La, my map was wrong and sent me in the opposite direction. But I could’ve just followed the route on Maps.me. I also hesitated a bit when leaving the main trail to reach Dzonglha.

The trek from Tumlingtar (D22 to D25) is *very* different from the Khumbu. No impressive peaks, but a very authentic and charming rural Nepal, with much lighter prices. Far from the lodge ghettos.

What about spending 2-3 days hanging around Lukla-Namche?

It’s better to plan extra days at the end of the Three Passes trek, as they provide a safety margin for weather or health issues. That’s why I spent time in Gokyo and especially Thame.

Fabrice Almost 58 during this trek, not athletic but enduring.

I don’t feel like rushing back for fear of missing my flight—I’d rather stay in Lukla for 2 days waiting

Since the idea of waiting around in Lukla or nearby didn’t thrill me, I decided to skip the flight altogether. At most, I kept it as a backup plan in case I fell too far behind my trekking schedule.

In my itinerary, I had the following backup options in order: 1°) Use one of the days planned in Thame, or even the one in Gokyo. 2°) Skip the Tumlingtar trek and return overland via Salleri. 3°) Fly back from Lukla.

If I was running late on the Tumlingtar Trek, I still had the option to take a flight from Tumlingtar. It’s less unpredictable than flying from Lukla and not as crowded with other trekkers (if at all).

Fabrice

hi!

I just put together an itinerary using info I gathered from the web. Obviously, it's just to give me an idea—I'm not obliged to follow it to the letter.

1-Lukla-Namche 2-rest/acclimatization in Namche 3-Namche-Deboche 4-Deboche-Dingboche 5-rest/acclimatization in Dingboche 6-Dingboche-Chukung Ri-Chukung 7-Chukung-Kongma La-Lobuche 8-Lobuche-EBC-Gorak Shep 9-Gorak Shep-Kala Patthar-Lobuche 10-rest/walk around Lobuche 11-Lobuche-Dzongla 12-Dzongla-Cho La-Gokyo 13-rest/walk around Gokyo 14-Gokyo Ri 15-Gokyo-Renjo La-Lumde 16-Lumde-Thame 17-Thame-Namche 18-Namche-Lukla I think I’ve done a decent job respecting acclimatization times and avoiding too-rapid altitude gains. And as I mentioned earlier, this is just an overview of the trek—not a program to follow strictly.

Does this itinerary seem too ambitious or reckless to you?

thanks, have a good evening 🙂

Day 1. It’s a beautiful day from Lukla to Namche. Not impossible, but it depends on what time you land in Lukla...

Day 10. Not much to do in Lobuche—it’s ugly, cold, and packed with people. I’d recommend pushing on to Dzonglha on your way back from Kala Patthar (2 to 3 hours from Lobuche).

Last day, I’d suggest staying in any village before Monjo instead of Namche.

4-Deboche to Dingboche 5-Rest/acclimatization in Dingboche (...) I think I didn’t do too badly respecting the acclimatization times and avoiding too sudden altitude gains

Really?

Deboche: 3,820 m Dingboche: 4,360 m That’s a 540 m difference between two overnight stays—above the threshold recommended by medical authorities.

I’d recommend an intermediate stop in Pangboche instead, with a side trip to Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Fabrice

Day 10. Not much to do in Lobuche—it’s ugly, cold, and packed with people. I’d recommend pushing on to Dzonglha on your way back from Kala Patthar (2–3 hours from Lobuche)

+1

On the last day, I’d suggest staying in any village before Monjo instead of Namche.

+1

Coming down from Thame (the trail was covered in a thin layer of snow in places), I stayed overnight in Benkar.

Fabrice

13-repos/ballade a gokyo 14-gokyo ri

If you're able to do Lukla to Namche in a single day, you should be able to manage in just one day: - 5th lake / Ngozumpa Tsho in the morning - Gokyo Ri for sunset.

This frees up a day for flexibility, like heading to Thame, for example—a hike toward Tashi Lapcha La or climbing Sumdur Ri. That day can be used earlier in the itinerary if the weather turns bad or if someone isn’t feeling well.

Fabrice

I just put together an itinerary with info I gathered from the web.

It’d probably be worth reviewing all the discussions at https://voyageforum.com/discussion/haute-route-everest-octobre-novembre-2013-d6326315/.

Fabrice

1-lukla-namche

Watch out for AMS. FYI, I did it in 2 days with a stop in Phakding, but I still got a headache when I arrived in Namche.

14-gokyo ri15-gokyo- renjo la- lumde

If you're planning to cross the Renjo La, there's no need to climb Gokyo Ri—the view is pretty much the same (it's in the same area at the same altitude). Otherwise, you can climb Gokyo Ri (view of Everest) and then descend back to Namche via the Dudh Kosi valley without crossing the Renjo La. This valley (Dudh Kosi) is stunning.

Watch out for AMS. FYI, I did it in 2 days with a stop in Phakding, but I still got a headache when I reached Namche.

Stopping in Phakding won’t help with altitude acclimatization. Even if you stay in Monjo (the highest point before Namche), I knew it only starts to matter above 3,000–3,500 m.

Fabrice

The stop in Phakding won’t help with altitude acclimatization. Even when staying in Monjo (the highest point before Namche), I knew it’s only from 3,000–3,500 m that it starts to matter.

Yeah, it’s definitely better to do a bit more on the first day, as long as you don’t leave Lukla too late like I did. But either way, it’s risky to do Lukla to Namche in one go unless you know your limits really well.

Solo travelers almost never get a spot on the earliest flights from KTM to Lukla. So there's very little chance you'll be able to head to Namche Bazaar on the first day. There are lodges all the way to Monjo—you can stop wherever you like. Benkar, for example, is super quiet in the evening.

Personally, I’ve always thought Gokyo RI is a must, even when crossing Renjo La. The view of the lakes is just incredible.

So to sum up, it's better to add a stop between Lukla and Namche in Phakding, and likewise between Deboche and Dingboche in Pangboche. Plus, the detour to Ama Dablam Base Camp really appeals to me! 🙂

As for the stages on the way down—Lume, Thame, Namche—I listed those villages as examples. If I like a village along the route and the timing works out, I’ll stop there.

Next, is Kala Patthar to Dzonglha too long a stage? On the map, it looks pretty far apart. So, to be safe, I’m planning 25 days between my outbound and return flights—20 days for the trek and 5 days as a buffer. If I bring the equivalent of 1000 € in cash, do you think I can do the trek without depriving myself too much?

On a lighter note, is there a bar or a meet-up spot in Namche? Just to grab a beer, have a laugh before really diving into the trek.

Thanks for your answers, have a great evening!

Phakding is a trekker hotspot. It's better to push further if you're looking for peace and authenticity. For example, all the way to Bengkar, or even Chhumowa (just before Monjo). That said, Phakding has the advantage of being covered by EverestLink for internet wifi.

In Namche, there are likely more bars and hotels than Sherpa homes. That’s why I don’t recommend stopping there on the way back.

If it’s essential to your happiness, there’s a nightclub across from the Valley View Lodge, almost at the end of the main street. It closed around 10 PM when I stayed at the Valley View Lodge (rustic, reasonable prices, friendly didi, but the owner was unfortunately unpleasant).

Thame is a real village, even if the homes are spread out. Most of the Khumbu’s potatoes come from there, so prices are cheaper. It also has a gonpa where a team of monks lives. In Namche Bazaar, there’s only one resident lama to collect offerings from tourists 😒.

Between Thame and Namche, the village of Thamo has its charm. Nighttime lighting is powered by solar panels. I even saw an ad for tax optimization and wealth management—targeting Sherpas, not trekkers.

kala patthar->dzonglha sa fait pas trop long comme étape ? on the map it looks quite far.

That’s exactly what I did—at nearly 58, not athletic, solo, and without a porter. Once you leave the main trekking "avenue," it’s mostly a pleasant balcony trail. You only need to climb a bit near the lake (Chola Tsho) to reach Dzonglha.

Fabrice

So to be safe, I think I’ll plan for 25 days between my outbound and return flights, with 20 days of trekking and 5 days as a buffer.

Returning overland lets you avoid the hassles of return flights from Lukla.

Ground transport obviously has its own uncertainties, but they’re much less frequent than flights between Lukla and Kathmandu. This way, you don’t have to add too many buffer days in Kathmandu (I still planned for 2, which among other things let me revisit Bhaktapur, which I love).

If I bring the equivalent of 1000 € in cash, do you think I can do the trek without depriving myself too much?

With a rustic consumption (local meals, including breakfast, no soda, no alcohol, no tea, only water disinfected with Pyush, just 2 hot showers), I spent a total of 28,780 rupees (224 €) for 17 days, from Paiya back to Paiya (as shown in my itinerary). That includes the Sagarmatha National Park entry fee (3,000 Rs), the Khumbu local tax (2,000 Rs), and the 10 GB EverestLink package (2,000 Rs). It’s really all-inclusive.

Excluding transport, my 25 days of trekking cost me 276 €.

On top of that, I had to add my food purchases in Kathmandu: - Nepalese muesli (500 g): 110 Rs (vs. 140 Rs in Thamel) - Nak cheese (638 g): 890 Rs (1,400 Rs/kg) - 3 x 200 g yellow raisins: 3 x 140 Rs, so 420 Rs total. - Pyush (60 ml): 25 Rs. For purifying water. Muesli and cheese were eaten as picnic food when crossing the passes, then as a supplement.

Note: You can find cheaper nak cheese in Namche Bazaar (I think 1,100 Rs), but I found it less tasty. So I didn’t buy it.

Fabrice

P.S.: I had to leave with 1,500 €, but my trekking budget was only 360 €.

add a stage (...) between Deboche and Dingboche at Pangboche, plus I’d love the detour to Ama Dablam base camp

Ama Dablam is THE stunning mountain of the Khumbu.

To avoid the crowds clogging the trekker highway, it’s better to go via Phortse village (a real village, not a trekker ghetto), staying on the right bank of the valley. Sure, you can’t visit the super touristy Tengboche gompa, but you get amazing views of Ama Dablam.

Between Phortse and Pangboche, there’s a lovely wild trail, usually a balcony path, but it’s "Nepali flat"—meaning ups and downs.

In Pangboche, the village and its gompa are in what’s called "Upper Pangboche." You arrive there directly when coming from Phortse.

Fabrice

Thanks for all these answers.

They answered the questions I had, and now I’ve got an itinerary/plan that holds up thanks to you. Even if I don’t follow the stages to the letter, I’ve got an overall view of the trek and its steps.

For the walk back, it’s true that I’m pretty tempted, but it means I’d only book a one-way flight from Kathmandu. And if for some reason I don’t have the time or the chance to walk back, it’s apparently hard to get a return flight seat if it’s not booked in advance. I’m still undecided about this part. Anyway, I really want to take a flight at least for the outbound—Lukla Airport’s reputation and uniqueness make me really want to experience it at least once.

Budget-wise, I’ll be well within my limits, and I’m really happy about that (glad to see my 55–60 hours a week at work aren’t for nothing and are paying off 🙂 ).

As for nightlife, I’m not looking for a nightclub (I can’t stand dancing, and loud music gets on my nerves), but if I understood correctly, there are still bars where I can go for a beer (or two ). That’s all I’m asking for.

Thanks again, and have a great evening

Budget-wise, I’d be quite comfortable

I did specify “rustic consumption.” Generally, experienced Anglo-Saxon trekkers mention $30–40 per day.

Keep in mind that prices rise sharply with altitude, which makes sense when you realize everything is carried up from Phaplu or delivered by helicopter.

Expenses will therefore depend on how much time you spend at high altitude, beyond Pangboche, the last village inhabited year-round.

On the other hand, most prices in Namche Bazaar are excessive. So, except at the porters’ canteens at the village entrance, daal bhat costs more than the 500 Rs charged in Gokyo. Namche hotel owners take advantage of trekkers’ lack of price knowledge when they first arrive in the Khumbu.

The worst I saw was a hotel in Junbesi offering daal bhat for 700 Rs 😠. That’s exactly what I paid in Gorak Shep, even though Junbesi is now accessible by road.

Fabrice

Hi, I did the Gorakshep - Base Camp - Dzongla route in a day... a bit long, though, with a lunch break in Gorakshep.

Regarding travel times, it's best to start early in the morning. Meals around 11 a.m., tea breaks... Dingboche to Namche or Gokyo to Namche can be done in a day, same for Namche to Lukla on the way back.

For flights, it's possible to find a flight for the next day if you book the evening before. By arriving early in Lukla (2 p.m.), you can leave at 7 a.m. for Namche... but not with Yeti or Tara airlines since groups get priority. The Kumbu Resort Lodge in Lukla is a place where they handle Yeti/Tara and sell and check in for Simrik. In any case, it worked for me. Dominique

For the descent from Thame, you can skip Namche since you’ll have already done it on the way up. There’s a trail on the right bank that goes via Kondge and comes out between Monjo and Phakding. You’ll need to check in Thame if it’s passable—depending on the season, there can be icy sections, which you sometimes see from Mamche.

Are you talking about Kongde Ridge? - It's long and tough - There's only one overpriced lodge up there. Otherwise, you need camping gear.

Yeah, But I wasn’t thinking of stopping at Kongde. I did part of it in the opposite direction to acclimatize, starting from Monjo. Going uphill, it’s probably long, and since you’re not necessarily acclimatized, I don’t recommend it—plus, at the start, the trail isn’t easy to find. On the other hand, on the way down, especially after doing the Three Passes, it’s doable.

Getting from Thame to Monjo in a single day seems impossible to me.

Check out https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=6328876;a=6328876 who did Thame -> Kongde -> Toktok (downstream from Monjo).

But reading their full Three Passes Trek account shows they're a really strong hiker. Personally, I ruled out that option and was happy with Thame -> Bengkar via Namche Bazar.

Fabrice

11 hours total, no longer than a solid ascent with descent.

So it's not for just any trekker. Especially since not everyone tackles positive elevation gain at the same pace.

Fabrice

In the direction I'm talking about, it's mostly downhill (-1,500 m)

Sure, it’s downhill at the end toward Toktok.

But before that, you’ll have to push hard to climb up to Kongde at 4,250 m from a low point of 3,400 m. That’s still a minimum positive elevation gain of 850 m. Even if it’s mostly downhill, you still have to ascend those 850 m. Not to mention the "Nepali flat" with its ups and downs.

Fabrice

Thame to Kongde: +721m https://fr.wikiloc.com/itineraires-randonnee/thame-to-kongde-30233734

Yeah, but I tried it from Thame. It’s not a direct climb—it’s a long traverse. And that north face stays in the shade the whole time. Result: icy patches all over the trail and the steps. So, I turned back.

Always be cautious with exported tracks. I've used them a lot and eventually figured out why some results varied so much for the same route.

1) Only 656 points over 7h31' of recording (1 point every 41'), which can miss small climbs/descents. The altitude difference is accurate, but the elevation gain is underestimated.

2) Moving time of just 1h18'. I'm really skeptical about that. The GPS device used might not be reliable.

On top of that, GPS can be a bit inaccurate when you're at the bottom of a valley, with steep slopes blocking the view of some satellites.

Anyway, my map shows the trail descends to 3,400 m (consistent with Namche Bazar) at its lowest point before the climb to Kongde.

Either way, 721 m or 850 m of elevation gain isn’t a casual stroll, even if you're acclimatized.

Fabrice

Yes, that's what I was saying earlier.

The Kumbu Resort Lodge in Lukla is a place where they handle Yeti/Tara and where they sell and do the check-in for Simrik. In any case, for me, it worked out.

Same here... [;]

After that, it depends on the time of year, but without too much snow, it’s pretty doable.

They recommend crampons for some sections, but I did it without them and it wasn’t an issue.

If you’re interested, there’s a lot of step-by-step info with distances and elevation gains on this blog: https://backpackerdudimanche.com/trek-3-cols-three-passes-trek-nepal/

After that, it depends on the season, but without too much snow, it’s doable pretty easily.

They recommend crampons for some sections, but I did it without and it wasn’t a problem.

If you’re interested, there’s a lot of step-by-step info with distances and elevation gains on this blog: https://backpackerdudimanche.com/trek-3-cols-three-passes-trek-nepal/

Since 2019—or even before—I’ve done this trek... Probably a wrong recipient?