Three Passes Trek in Nepal
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
VA
Hi there. I know this topic has been covered countless times, but I can't seem to find clear answers to my questions.

I'm currently looking into doing the Three Passes Trek, including some adjacent routes like EBC, Kala Patthar, Gokyo Ri, and maybe Chukung Ri. I'm planning to do this trek between April and May.

But I have a few questions.

In terms of difficulty, I think I'm physically up for it—I'm athletic and used to mountain hiking in France—but is there any specific training I should do? Just to note, I did the Annapurna Base Camp last year without any issues.

Is it doable without a guide? I’d prefer to skip a guide and porter so I can really move freely. Is that crazy, or is it common? I’m mostly concerned about the Cho La and Renjo La passes (more about the route and risk of getting lost than safety).

Finally, I’m wondering about the duration. I’m a fast hiker, but I plan to take my time to acclimatize properly and enjoy the scenery (and maybe relax a bit in those landscapes🙂(By the way, does living at 2,000m altitude for 90% of the year help with AMS?) How much time should I budget for the trek to be safe, even if it means spending 2-3 extra days around Lukla-Namche? I was thinking of setting aside 20 days—does that sound reasonable?

Thanks for reading, and sorry in advance for any spelling mistakes. If I think of more questions, I’ll post them in this thread.

Cheers
LE Lethieu Globetrotter ·
Just a few points: Guide or porter-guide... Many will tell you it's unnecessary, which is true for an experienced hiker. But it's useful (whether or not you have a porter) as a guide for certain sections (like crossing the Chola Pass), getting info from locals and other guides about glacier conditions, finding accommodations, negotiating prices, and—most importantly—organizing rescue if something goes wrong (it can happen). As for freedom, they adapt... In short, it's always helpful, it makes things easier, and it's not very expensive compared to the overall cost of a trip to Nepal. Especially since they really need the work—tourism is the only thing keeping the country going, so... Difficulty: No problem = just the altitude. You might be more trained than people from the plains, but that's not necessarily the issue. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) can happen to anyone, even strong or experienced hikers. It depends on your current form, a bunch of factors... Follow acclimatization advice: gradual ascent, sleep at a lower altitude than your highest point of the day, etc. (including meds—homeopathic Coca or allopathic Diamox). And if it happens anyway (it's rare, but it happened to me in 2016), just be aware, don’t push too far, and be ready to turn back. Weather: Check the usual breakdowns (in trek catalogs)—they don’t change much. Factor in the risk of Lukla-KTM flight cancellations. Good idea to take time to "chill"... But the LUKLA-NAMCHE-Base Camp route has become a nightmare in season: everyone crowds it, and in peak season, it’s like the La Flégère-Lac Blanc trail in Chamonix. So, take time around Gokyo or in the beautiful Chukung area instead. Happy planning.
JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
The Cho La is dangerous in bad weather. It's doable without a guide if the weather's good (I've done the Three Passes circuit solo three times), but if the weather's bad, it's much wiser to hire one for the day in Dzonglha or join a group (by paying their guide at the end of the day). Alternatively, you could just wait until the next day or take the route via Phortse (which adds 1 to 2 days). (It's always a good idea to have microspikes for the glacier crossing—it's not always mandatory, but just in case... The first two times I crossed, the glacier was snow-covered, so no problem, but the last time, it was just hard ice at the end... 🤪)

Otherwise, a guide isn't necessary for the rest of the trek, though as mentioned above, it can have its advantages. Personal choice. 😛

Watch out for the descent on the Lobuche side of Kongma La—it can also be a pain if there's a lot of snow or bad weather... Renjo La, on the other hand, is the easiest of the three, especially from Gokyo.
VA Vadoor ·
Thanks for your replies.

So, to recap, the guide isn’t necessary, but it’s good to have one. I didn’t know I could hire one for the day in Dzonghla—that seems like the best option for me. Negotiating with a group to join them and pay the guide could also be a good solution.

For altitude sickness, I’ve planned to spend 2 days in Namche, 2 days around 4,000m, and take short stages (around 4-5 hours of walking per day). That should work out okay.

I was planning to buy microspikes just in case—they’re not a big investment and they help a lot. I’ll actually buy them in France; I’ve seen quite a few issues with breakage for those bought directly on-site.

At the risk of repeating myself, does anyone have a time estimate? I’m wondering about booking the Lukla-Kathmandu flight tickets. I don’t want to rush back for fear of missing my flight—I’d rather stay in Lukla for 2 days waiting ^^.

Thanks, have a great evening
JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
For acclimatization, you’ve got plenty of options: the Ama Dablam base camp above Pangboche, the Taboche viewpoint (also above Pangboche), and that little hill above Dingboche whose name I’ve forgotten. This way, you’ll arrive in Chukkung already pretty well acclimatized, and you won’t have to spend a full day doing nothing in Pangboche or Dingboche...

As for the time, it all depends on whether you plan to do a lot of side treks or not... (there are *tons* to do besides the classics like Gokyo Ri, Kala Patthar, and Chukkung Ri). Some agencies offer it in 14 or 15 days (Lukla-Lukla), but that’s way too short for everything there is to see up there... Between 20 and 25 days (L-L) is more reasonable for acclimatization, hikes, and the weather. 😛 (if you’ve got the time, of course)
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Difficulty level—I think I have the fitness for it, being athletic and used to mountain hiking in France, but is there any specific training? Just to note, I did the Annapurna Base Camp last year without any issues.

Physical condition is important, but not the only factor. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) doesn’t really depend on your fitness level. I got it when I was young and competing in athletics at a regional/national level, while my wife, who isn’t very sporty, never did. With age and in similar conditions, I haven’t had it again. The key—especially if you’re athletic—is to take it easy and keep a pace below your limits (we always tend to go too fast) and to acclimatize properly without rushing. Don’t forget that Annapurna Base Camp is only around 4,000m, while the Three Passes in the Khumbu and Kala Patthar are above 5,000m.

Is it doable without a guide? I admit I’d prefer to skip a guide and porter to have full freedom of movement. Is that crazy, or is it common? I’m mostly concerned about the Cho La and Renjo La passes (more about the route and risk of getting lost than safety).

If you’re not doing the passes: Going to Gokyo via the Dudh Koshi Valley and returning the same way, then heading to EBC and Kala Patthar is doable without a guide. If you’re doing the passes, it’s also manageable if the weather is good and the passes are well-marked—meaning no recent fresh snow. Otherwise, it can become tricky to find the right path, and even dangerous if visibility is poor, especially at Cho La where you cross a glacier section. So yes, a guide is recommended. A porter might be enough if they know these passes well, like those who accompany expeditions to the summits, but many porters have no experience...

How much time should I plan for the trek to be safe, even if it means spending 2-3 days hanging around Lukla-Namche? I was thinking of allowing 20 days—does that sound right?

There’s not much point in hanging around between Lukla and Namche—you can do that stretch in two relaxed days. But from Namche and above, yes, it’s worth it. Don’t forget (headaches will remind you!) to take an acclimatization day in Namche. 20 days is enough, as long as you fly in and out of Lukla
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
AMS doesn’t depend too much on fitness level.

I’d even say the fitter you are at hiking, the more at risk you are for AMS.

The reason is that you’re then able to climb very quickly in a single day. Too able. A less experienced hiker, or someone older, will climb more slowly and give their body more time to acclimatize to the altitude.

Most victims of altitude sickness are young. Maybe not patient enough for a gradual ascent. Or maybe with age comes experience and more caution.

The key, especially when you're fit, is to take it easy and keep a pace below your capabilities (we always tend to go too fast) and to acclimatize properly without skipping steps.

++++

A risk I’m not worried about... 😉

Fabrice
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
the small hill above Dingboche whose name I’ve forgotten

I think you’re referring to Nangkar Tshang Ri. Not that small, that hill! Unless you mean the ridge near Nangkar Tshang Gonpa (5,035 m).

Fabrice
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
How much time should I allow for the trek to be on the safe side? (...) I was thinking of planning for 20 days—does that sound good to you?

For reference, here’s the itinerary I followed last December.

D0: Bus from Kathmandu to Changhestan (3,000 m, between Dhap Bazar and Pattale, on the Salleri road). D1: Trek to Pikey Dairy (3,640 m). Not recommended for acclimatization, but I’m lucky to be less sensitive to altitude. D2: Junbesi via Pikey Peak (wide panorama up to Kanchenjunga) D3: Phuleli (village after Nunthale) D4: Paiya D5: Monjo D6: Namche Bazar (3,440 m) D7: Khumjung → Phortse (3,810 m). Doesn’t follow the recommendation to spend 2 nights around 3,500 m. A bit risky due to crossing Mong La (3,975 m) beforehand. Still, you can sleep at a slightly lower altitude in Phortse Thanga (3,600 m). D8: Pangboche, side trip to Ama Dablam BC. D9: Dingboche via Tabuche Kharka and Pheriche. Side trip to Nangkar Tshang Gonpa. D10: Chhukhung, side trip to Chhukhung Ri. D11: Side trip to Island Peak BC. On D12, I’d planned an extra day in Chhukhung to hike toward Amphu Lapcha BC, but I preferred to join a group heading for Kongma La. D12: Kongma La → Lobuche D13: Gorakshep, side trip to EBC. I’d planned to do Kala Patthar at sunset, but the weather turned overcast, and I had to give up. D14: Dzonglha. Side trip to Kala Patthar in the morning. D15: Gokyo via Cho La. D16: Gokyo. Side trips to 5th Lake and Gokyo Ri. D17: Lungden via Renjo La D18: Thame, visit the gonpa and surroundings. D19: Thame, side trip to Thyangbo, toward Tashi Lapcha La. D20: Bengkar D21: Paiya. I could’ve kept going, but I was held up by a violent hailstorm. D22: Gaikharka, toward Tumlingtar D23: Gudel D24: Jaubari D25: Chyawabesi The next day: shared jeep to Itahari, then overnight transport to Kathmandu.

Done without a guide or porter. I only had route issues twice: 1. On the side trip to Island Peak BC. Probably missed a turn on a moraine. 2. After crossing Kongma La, my map was wrong and sent me in the opposite direction. But I could’ve just followed the route on Maps.me. I also hesitated a bit when leaving the main trail to reach Dzonglha.

The trek from Tumlingtar (D22 to D25) is *very* different from the Khumbu. No impressive peaks, but a very authentic and charming rural Nepal, with much lighter prices. Far from the lodge ghettos.

What about spending 2-3 days hanging around Lukla-Namche?

It’s better to plan extra days at the end of the Three Passes trek, as they provide a safety margin for weather or health issues. That’s why I spent time in Gokyo and especially Thame.

Fabrice Almost 58 during this trek, not athletic but enduring.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
I don’t feel like rushing back for fear of missing my flight—I’d rather stay in Lukla for 2 days waiting

Since the idea of waiting around in Lukla or nearby didn’t thrill me, I decided to skip the flight altogether. At most, I kept it as a backup plan in case I fell too far behind my trekking schedule.

In my itinerary, I had the following backup options in order: 1°) Use one of the days planned in Thame, or even the one in Gokyo. 2°) Skip the Tumlingtar trek and return overland via Salleri. 3°) Fly back from Lukla.

If I was running late on the Tumlingtar Trek, I still had the option to take a flight from Tumlingtar. It’s less unpredictable than flying from Lukla and not as crowded with other trekkers (if at all).

Fabrice
VA Vadoor ·
hi!

I just put together an itinerary using info I gathered from the web. Obviously, it's just to give me an idea—I'm not obliged to follow it to the letter.

1-Lukla-Namche 2-rest/acclimatization in Namche 3-Namche-Deboche 4-Deboche-Dingboche 5-rest/acclimatization in Dingboche 6-Dingboche-Chukung Ri-Chukung 7-Chukung-Kongma La-Lobuche 8-Lobuche-EBC-Gorak Shep 9-Gorak Shep-Kala Patthar-Lobuche 10-rest/walk around Lobuche 11-Lobuche-Dzongla 12-Dzongla-Cho La-Gokyo 13-rest/walk around Gokyo 14-Gokyo Ri 15-Gokyo-Renjo La-Lumde 16-Lumde-Thame 17-Thame-Namche 18-Namche-Lukla I think I’ve done a decent job respecting acclimatization times and avoiding too-rapid altitude gains. And as I mentioned earlier, this is just an overview of the trek—not a program to follow strictly.

Does this itinerary seem too ambitious or reckless to you?

thanks, have a good evening 🙂
JE JerzyKukuczk Regular ·
Day 1. It’s a beautiful day from Lukla to Namche. Not impossible, but it depends on what time you land in Lukla...

Day 10. Not much to do in Lobuche—it’s ugly, cold, and packed with people. I’d recommend pushing on to Dzonglha on your way back from Kala Patthar (2 to 3 hours from Lobuche).

Last day, I’d suggest staying in any village before Monjo instead of Namche.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
4-Deboche to Dingboche 5-Rest/acclimatization in Dingboche (...) I think I didn’t do too badly respecting the acclimatization times and avoiding too sudden altitude gains

Really?

Deboche: 3,820 m Dingboche: 4,360 m That’s a 540 m difference between two overnight stays—above the threshold recommended by medical authorities.

I’d recommend an intermediate stop in Pangboche instead, with a side trip to Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Fabrice
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Day 10. Not much to do in Lobuche—it’s ugly, cold, and packed with people. I’d recommend pushing on to Dzonglha on your way back from Kala Patthar (2–3 hours from Lobuche)

+1

On the last day, I’d suggest staying in any village before Monjo instead of Namche.

+1

Coming down from Thame (the trail was covered in a thin layer of snow in places), I stayed overnight in Benkar.

Fabrice
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
13-repos/ballade a gokyo 14-gokyo ri

If you're able to do Lukla to Namche in a single day, you should be able to manage in just one day: - 5th lake / Ngozumpa Tsho in the morning - Gokyo Ri for sunset.

This frees up a day for flexibility, like heading to Thame, for example—a hike toward Tashi Lapcha La or climbing Sumdur Ri. That day can be used earlier in the itinerary if the weather turns bad or if someone isn’t feeling well.

Fabrice
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
I just put together an itinerary with info I gathered from the web.

It’d probably be worth reviewing all the discussions at https://voyageforum.com/discussion/haute-route-everest-octobre-novembre-2013-d6326315/.

Fabrice
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
1-lukla-namche

Watch out for AMS. FYI, I did it in 2 days with a stop in Phakding, but I still got a headache when I arrived in Namche.

14-gokyo ri15-gokyo- renjo la- lumde

If you're planning to cross the Renjo La, there's no need to climb Gokyo Ri—the view is pretty much the same (it's in the same area at the same altitude). Otherwise, you can climb Gokyo Ri (view of Everest) and then descend back to Namche via the Dudh Kosi valley without crossing the Renjo La. This valley (Dudh Kosi) is stunning.
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
Watch out for AMS. FYI, I did it in 2 days with a stop in Phakding, but I still got a headache when I reached Namche.

Stopping in Phakding won’t help with altitude acclimatization. Even if you stay in Monjo (the highest point before Namche), I knew it only starts to matter above 3,000–3,500 m.

Fabrice
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
The stop in Phakding won’t help with altitude acclimatization. Even when staying in Monjo (the highest point before Namche), I knew it’s only from 3,000–3,500 m that it starts to matter.

Yeah, it’s definitely better to do a bit more on the first day, as long as you don’t leave Lukla too late like I did. But either way, it’s risky to do Lukla to Namche in one go unless you know your limits really well.
WI Willemspie Globetrotter ·
Solo travelers almost never get a spot on the earliest flights from KTM to Lukla. So there's very little chance you'll be able to head to Namche Bazaar on the first day. There are lodges all the way to Monjo—you can stop wherever you like. Benkar, for example, is super quiet in the evening.

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