As mentioned in a previous post, we're heading to Morocco in April for 9 days instead of the originally planned 7.
Here's the itinerary I've mapped out to ideally have a complete trip, but I think it might be too ambitious. What do you think?
Here's the itinerary (click)
For those who can't open the link:
Marrakech (the afternoon of our arrival + 1 day, we’ve already been there without the kids, the goal is not to stay too long) – night
Aït Ben Haddou
Ouarzazate
Skoura – night
Oasis de Fint
Dadès Gorges
Tinghir – night
Merzouga – night
Zagora – night
M’hamid – ideally a night in the desert
Agdz
Marrakech – night (itinerary via Telouet)
What do you think of this plan? Will it feel too rushed, or is it manageable?
Since we don’t know the places, it’s hard to tell if we’ll want to stop everywhere along the way or if there’s enough time to spend at each spot.
I’ve included some night-stop assumptions (1 or 2 nights).
We’d love to hear your thoughts!
We’re traveling with my wife, a 13-year-old teen, and a 10-year-old.
We’ll have our own rental car.
Hi there...
As I mentioned before, this itinerary is completely crazy given the time you have!
You clearly want to see some dunes—no problem—but maybe avoid Morocco’s Disneyland... Merzouga is a nightmare: chaotic, disorganized, and just a mess!!!!
Travel times in Morocco are totally unpredictable, so with just 9 days for a round trip, if you want to spend a night in the sand, go for Mhamid and find a local contact to organize it for you.
From Marrakech, head to Aït Ben Haddou, then spend the night in Zagora (Ouarzazate isn’t worth it). The "Fibule du Draa" is a well-known spot among 4x4 travelers—great vibe, friendly welcome, reasonable prices, and no pretentiousness...
After that, as suggested in the other post, contact the "Esprit Désert" campsite—they’ll set you up for a night in the Chegaga dunes. But if that contact doesn’t seem reliable, the "Fibule du Draa" hotel in Zagora offers the same experience, just farther away and pricier.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
For 9 days, I’d pick either Merzouga or Mhamid, but I wouldn’t do both.
Another thing—the visit to the Finit oasis, coming from Skoura to then head to the Dadès Gorge, doesn’t make sense. Check the map.
From Tinghir, you can go see the Todra Gorge.
So, taking your comments into account, here’s what it looks like: Google Maps link
I’ve removed Merzouga, so is the itinerary more realistic now?
Marrakech (the afternoon of our arrival + 1 day—we’ve already been there without the kids, so the goal is not to stay too long) – night
Aït Ben Haddou
Ouarzazate – night (we just want to visit the film studios)
Skoura
Oasis de Fint
Gorges du Dadès
Tinghir – night
Zagora – night
M’hamid – ideally a night in the desert
Agdz
Marrakech – night (route via Telouet)
Not all nights are accounted for, so if you have any recommendations, we’re all ears!
Agdz is just mentioned to say we’ll pass through there.
My last visit was 12 years ago. It felt like an amusement park! An hour later, we were back on the road... So I can only imagine what it's like these days. But my tastes aren’t universal—lots of people seem to love it, given how crowded it is. Personally, it was the constant roar of quads and other engines that drove me nuts!
Erfoud, Rissani, Merzouga, etc.—it wasn’t so polluted or overrun with quads and 4x4s back then. The vibe was much more peaceful, but that might have changed.
We’d need some recent feedback from people who’ve been there lately...
Personally, my favorite (if I can call it that, since compared to the Algerian desert, the Moroccan one feels pretty "degraded" and like a "sandbox") was Figuig. I’m sure most people wouldn’t agree, since I didn’t see a single tourist there.
In Figuig, no dunes, but a beautiful, calm oasis—just as peaceful as Mhamid was 50 years ago.
I think Djalma was referring to the great ergs of Mauritania or Algeria—compared to those, Erg Chegaga really does look like a sandbox.
However, it covers a much larger area than the one in Merzouga and is significantly less polluted by motorized or camelback attractions.
There are, like at Erg Chebbi, a few "camps" run by hotels in Mhamid or Zagora, but it’s nothing like the same scale.
That said, I really recommend getting in touch with the owner of the campsite I mentioned earlier—it’s nothing like the other places in the area. It’s authentic, and he’ll organize a top-notch circuit and evening based on your preferences.
It doesn’t cost much to contact him and see what he offers. You can mention you’re coming on the recommendation of members from this forum or forum4x4 (a site he’s active on).
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Hi there! Having been there, don’t hesitate to go to M’Hamid. We went by camelback and camped—we were all alone, which was a shame, but what bliss! We did it through the Hôtel Sirroco in Zagora. Really lovely hotel and a great desert escape. The camel ride was a bit tough... not used to it... and it’s true that for the same price, we got a "mild" sandstorm instead.
Happy travels!
Okay, I get it... But we’re planning to go to Morocco this time, not anywhere else.
And if we like this introduction, we’ll go somewhere else next time.
Algeria doesn’t offer the same peace of mind for a tourist
OK, I get it... But we’re planning to go to Morocco this time, not anywhere else.
And if we like this introduction, we’ll go somewhere else next time.
Algeria doesn’t offer the same peace of mind for a tourist.
Of course, but I wasn’t recommending that destination—I was just explaining Djalma’s comment about the "sandbox" feeling.
The Erg Chegaga is already a good introduction to the dune massifs.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
From Ouarzazate, as already mentioned by a previous member, going to Skoura and then back to the Flint oasis by retracing your steps through Ouarzazate—"round trip"—just to pass through Skoura again and head toward the Draa or Todra, etc. ... so many kilometers and hours on the road wasted.
Ouarzazate, then Flint, and then Skoura, etc. ... with overnight stays adjusted would make much more sense!!!
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
I spent a month in Algeria, straddling November and December in 2013, with my trusty VW (Almería-Telhouet ferry).
What struck me the most, aside from the landscapes, was the extreme kindness and willingness of Algerians to help (just like in Morocco), but the absolute best part? The scams and constant (commercial) harassment that are so common in Morocco were practically nonexistent.
Only once during my entire stay.
If you're with Algerians you've just met, at a café, restaurant, or barber, it’s very common that when you leave, you’ll realize they’ve already "super discreetly" paid the bill!!!!!!
One example among many: In Tipaza, I met an Algerian who took the same ferry as me.
He waved at me, and we chatted for a bit. Then he left.
When I finished at the barber and tried to pay for my haircut, I found out he’d already taken care of it.
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
If you're with Algerians you've just met, whether at a café, restaurant, or barber shop, it's very common that when you leave, you'll realize they've already "super discreetly" paid the bill!!!!!!
One example among many: In Tipaza, I met an Algerian who took the same ferry as me.
He obviously waved at me, and we chatted for a bit. Then he left.
When I finished at the barber and tried to pay for my haircut, he had already taken care of it.
This is true for Algeria but also for many countries where tourism hasn't been well developed. In the Middle East, Syria used to be like that, for example.
These days, it might not be a country to recommend :/
Question
After the night in Skoura, do you go back down to Fint and then back up toward the Dades Gorges?
That doesn’t make much sense. The Fint Oasis is really close to Ouarzazate.
I’ve experienced this several times in Benin. It’s really nice. Once, it was breakfast at the Dantokpa market, another time a full meal at a beachside thatch-roof restaurant in Cotonou. It belonged to Romuald Hazoumé, whom I didn’t know but had chatted with at an accommodation a few days earlier. Recognizing me, he offered me and my daughter a free meal. And once, it was breakfast at a maquis along the Ouémé River.
🙂
Hi there,
Same remarks... This is a "throw a stone and see where it lands" kind of plan... ... Skip Skoura and Fint to return to Dadès—it’s not great either...
Since you clearly don’t want to settle down and want to see as much as possible (which is your choice, after all)... I need a month, even rushing, to do your loop—and that’s only if I don’t run into too many friends along the way... 😛
I’ll just suggest an alternative that’s as crazy as yours but much prettier and way less "cutesy" than some of the horrors out there, like visiting the Zazate studios—a total scam for tourists... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum in the center, across from the Taourirt kasbah... The guy who created it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (though he did study at Sciences Po, and I love the guy ^^). The idea is more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging out there for over 20 years, for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...
Fint, the oasis hyped up by all the YouTubers, Facebookers, and—worse—TikTokers who spend 5 days in Morocco and then write million-page guides telling you everything you *need* to know about the country... Really not a priority for an ultra-short road trip...
So, if I understood correctly, you’ve got 9 days, meaning 8 nights on the ground...
Night 1: MRK...
Night 2: AGOUTI OR TABANT (I figured it’s not great to tackle the Tichka twice), so I’d head to Ait Bouli, then the Ait Bougemez Valley... Anne, a Swiss woman, runs a really nice hostel, *Auberge Flilou* ("poppies" in English), on Google Maps—check it out near Agouti... There are others in Tabant for all budgets... Expect about 6 hours of driving from MRK via Demnate. After Demnate, you’ll get some stunning scenery (a few *Jurassic Park*-style spots and a cute little village with an old granary on your left near Ighir n’Tissen, and a bit later, a small village on a ridge to your right: Iguelouan, pretty spectacular from the road...
Night 3: Bou Tharar... A bit of high-altitude driving to prove those *Guide du Routard* clowns wrong about Morocco’s highest paved passes—there are two here that put the Tichka to shame... After Tabant, a nice climb up the *Tizi Ait Imi* (the "mouth pass") to descend into the M’Goun Valley and then back up the *Tizi Ait Hamed* at 3,050 m... Gorgeous *and* paved... (Hurry up and visit the area before influencers claim they discovered America.) On the way down, some beautiful hairpin turns, then head to Bou Tharar. There are several nice spots if you insist, but don’t always follow the pavement... If you’re not afraid of dirt roads, a small, easy detour will take you through the Amejgag Gorges (you won’t be bothered by tourists there). I can give you the GPS points if you want... There are also some great, remote spots before Bou Tharar—authentic, local, and cheap. FYI, Bou Tharar is kind of the end of the Valley of Roses...
Night 4: Tinghir... From Bou Tharar, there’s an 8 km dirt road (not difficult) that cuts through the massif and connects to the Dadès Valley (near Ait Youl) and its stunning succession of new hostels that have pretty much ruined the valley (though it calms down near Tilmi... for now). From there, you’ll climb the *Tizi Ouanno* pass (everything’s paved or easy on dirt roads—yeah, those days of roughing it on this pass are long gone ^^). On the other side, you’ll pass through Agoudal and descend to Tinghir via the Todgha Gorges... (A few nice spots near Agoudal, but no time.)
Night 5: Zagora... From Tinghir, head back toward Boulmane (sorry about Skoura, but you should’ve come 10–15 years ago—or longer. Now it’s a sick, overhyped palm grove, just like Fint, sold by hordes of *toubabs* who’ve invested in fancy hostels. Of course, the YouTubers and TikTokers who "discovered" Morocco three years ago know how to sell it in their blogs...). From Boulmane, head toward Inkioun and cross the Saghro via easy pavement on the *Tizi Tazazert*—last I heard, it’s been suffering from severe depression since little Logans started crossing it innocently... On the descent (oops, quick stop for orange juice or tea at *Auberge Tirza* and a viewpoint over the Azzefar Canyon), you’ll hit Bab n’Ali... How to put this... Well, it’s a tough climb, but the area’s worth it for some great hikes... Then continue to N’Kob... Still paved... Then turn right toward Zagora via Tanskhite. My heart aches not being able to tell you about the insane dirt roads in the Saghro or the few amazing little surprises on the way to Zagora, but I hope the scenery will blow your mind enough to make you want to come back for another trip—with at least five times more time... or five trips... Zagora: I approve of the hostel Perju recommended. The name’s terrible, but otherwise, I like *Auberge Soleil du Monde*—great with kids and far from the city... Take a relaxed evening or morning walk in the old town of Amzrou; the owner’s really nice...
Night 6: Chegaga. You’ll have time to go to M’Hamid, but stop just before at Bounou, at *Camping Esprit Désert* (also recommended by Perju, and I agree). Run by Phil, who knows his stuff and can organize an amazing night in the desert at Chegaga. Otherwise, try M’Hamid—though *Au Petit Prince* is full of charming scammers who’ll offer you some real duds (if you haven’t been hassled already—these smooth talkers are on top of their game here).
Night 7: Well, do as you like, but enjoy the desert with your kids without rushing—especially since you won’t have your rental car unless it’s a 4x4... Head back at a relaxed pace, and why not sleep at the *Ksabah de Timidarte*? Or even head to Ait Ben Haddou if time’s tight...
Night 8: MRK. On the way back, you’ll have time to stop at Ait Ben Haddou—even though the place has been ruined lately, it’s still fun for the kids, especially since Kurt Russell peed against the palm tree that... (nope, I’m keeping that secret to myself). Obviously, head back via the Ounila Valley, Telouet, and the Tichka...
It’s doable, but it’s a race... Unless your car breaks down, it’s less packed than your first plan...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
If I have time—it’s been tough for me lately—but I can also post a bunch of Google Maps links for places you shouldn’t miss for the views, etc., if I remember how to do it...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
Hope there's more tarmac than when I passed through some sections of this route—otherwise, they’ll wreck their Logan!
Isn’t it a bit too many kilometers? 😉
Otherwise, this seems way more interesting than what was initially planned...
I don’t think you can delete the message.
But you can edit it. You could replace your original text with something like 'message deleted by its author'.
When you send a message, you can edit it only for a certain amount of time—after that, it stays in its original form.
By clicking on "options," you’ll see the choices available to you... but as mentioned, this is only possible for a limited time (I don’t remember exactly how long). If "options" is no longer available, it means the time has run out.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Hi, you can delete it.
I’ve already had posts I made removed through this site. They were really cool about it and deleted them.
Write to them and explain.
It only took a few days.
Cheers.
That would be great, but only "report or reply", no "option". I’ve always been terrible with the internet.
Thanks to you both
The "report" feature is active with no time limit. Use it (click the link) to report your own post and explain the reason. Moderation is usually pretty quick to respond...
It’s faster than sending an email.
Yep, almost the entire route I suggested is paved... And the rest can be done easily in a rental sedan. As for kilometers, I won’t argue with you—slower travel suits me just fine. It’s just a suggestion... If you’re gonna eat up asphalt, might as well see beautiful things. Doing tons of kilometers just to cover half the route twice doesn’t seem great to me...
Otherwise, since COVID, they’ve built quite a few new tracks. Not enough to feel the thrill of vast, solitary spaces, but honestly, it’s better than nothing, and you can really explore areas that were inaccessible before. There’s definitely a way to still enjoy yourself without running into the crowds you find in Marrakech or Agadir... Who knows how long it’ll last. Not sure the folks who explored the country in the 1930s would’ve liked seeing solo adventurers in 4x4s in the Atlas... We live in our time because we don’t have a choice...🙂
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
My memories are a bit fuzzy... I remember (1975! The year of the Green March) some pretty rough tracks for my R4TL when leaving the Todra Gorge. Around Tamtatoucht? Agoudal? On the way to Imilchil during the moussem. And also in the Ait Bouguemez Valley, etc.
All this tarmac makes me want to go back for a more relaxed road trip...
You’ve also got some amazing hikes in the area. If the season’s right and the river level is low, you can start from this valley—still in its natural state—along the M'Goun river and follow it all the way to Bou Tharar, passing through the stunning and dramatic Achabou gorge. (You’ll have water up to your feet, maybe even your knees; it’s narrow, so it’s best not to set off just anytime.)
At the bottom of Tizi Ait Imi, there’s a pretty basic gîte-camping spot that does the job—Gîte Vallée M'Goun, 3 km before the village of Ouzirimt. You leave your car there and follow the river through all the little villages until Bou Tharar...
A super nice hike that can be done in 3 or 4 days. The gîte is functional, but it’s not the Mamounia. Once in Bou Tharar, you can catch a 308 or 208 (shared taxi) heading to Tabant and get dropped off at the gîte. In Bou Tharar, at Auberge Tamalout (eating there is better because the owner’s getting a bit stingy in his old age ^^), he’ll call to book the number of seats from Kelaa M'gouna where they leave...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
I’ll just suggest an alternative that’s as wild as yours but way prettier and far less touristy than some of the tacky stuff—like visiting the Zazate studios, which is a total scam for suckers... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum downtown, right across from the Taourirt Kasbah. The guy who started it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (though he did go to Sciences Po, so he’s cool in my book ^^). It’s at least a bit more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging around there for over 20 years, mostly for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...
Hi,
Same remarks... This is a "throw a stone and see what happens" kind of program... 😇... Go to Skoura and Fint to head back to Dadès, not great either...
Since you clearly don’t want to stop and want to see as much as possible—which is your choice after all—I’d need a month, even rushing, to do your loop... and that’s if I don’t run into too many friends along the way...😛
I’d just suggest a variant that’s as crazy as yours but much prettier and way less "cutesy" than some of the tourist traps, like visiting the Zazate studios, which is a total scam for gullible tourists... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum in the center, across from the Taourirt kasbah... The guy who created it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (he went to Sciences Po, though, and I love the guy ^^). The idea is more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging out there for over 20 years, for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...
Fint, the oasis hyped up by all the YouTubers, Facebookers, and—worse—TikTokers who spend 5 days in Morocco and then write million-page guides about everything you *need* to know about the country... Really not a priority for an ultra-short road trip...
So if I understood correctly, you’ve got 9 days, meaning 8 nights there...
Night 1: MRK...
Night 2: AGOUTI OR TABANT (I figured it’s not great to do the Tichka twice), so I’d head to Ait Bouli, then the Ait Bougemez valley... Anne, a Swiss woman, runs a really nice hostel, Auberge Flilou ("poppies" in English), on Google Maps—check it out near Agouti... There are others in Tabant for all budgets... Count about 6 hours of driving from MRK via Demnate. After Demnate, you’ll get some stunning scenery (a few spots with *Jurassic Park* vibes and a cute little village with an old granary on your left near Ighir n’Tissent, and a bit later, a small village on a ridge to your right: Iguelouan, pretty spectacular from the road...
Night 3: Bou Tharar... A bit of very high mountain action to prove those *Guide du Routard* clowns wrong about the highest paved passes in Morocco—there are two around here that put the Tichka to shame... After Tabant, a nice climb up the Tizi Ait Imi (the "mouth pass") to descend into the M’Goun valley and then back up the Tizi Ait Hamed at 3,050 m... Gorgeous AND paved... (Hurry up and visit the area before influencers claim they discovered America.) On the way down, some beautiful hairpin turns, then head to Bou Tharar. There are several nice places if you insist, but don’t always follow the pavement... If you’re not afraid of dirt roads, a small, easy detour will take you through the Amejgag gorges (you won’t be bothered by tourists there). I can give you the GPS tracks and points... There are also a few really nice, remote spots before Bou Tharar that are cheap and authentic—real local vibes. FYI, Bou Tharar is kind of the end of the Valley of the Roses...
Night 4: Tinghir... From Bou Tharar, there’s an easy 8 km dirt road that cuts through the massif and connects to the Dadès valley (near Ait Youl) and its beautiful—but sadly overdeveloped—succession of new hostels (though it calms down near Tilmi... for now). From there, you’ll climb the Tizi Ouanno pass (everything’s paved or easy on dirt roads—yeah, those days of roughing it are long gone ^^). On the other side, you’ll pass through Agoudal and descend to Tinghir via the Todgha gorges... (A few nice spots near Agoudal, but no time.)
Night 5: Zagora... From Tinghir, head back toward Boulmane (sorry about Skoura, but you should’ve come 10–15 years ago or more—now it’s a sick, overhyped palm grove, just like Fint, sold by hordes of tourists who’ve invested in fancy hostels. Of course, the YouTubers and TikTokers who "discovered" Morocco three years ago know how to sell it in their blogs...). From Boulmane, head toward Inkioun and cross the Saghro via easy paved roads through the Tizi Tazazert, which, last I heard, has been suffering from severe depression ever since little Logans started crossing it innocently... On the way down (oops, quick stop for orange juice or tea at Auberge Tirza and a viewpoint over the Azzefar canyon), you’ll hit Bab n’Ali... How to put it... Well, it’s basically a big, hard zigzag, but the area’s worth remembering for some great hikes... Then continue to N’Kob... Still paved... After that, turn right toward Zagora via Tanskhite. My heart aches that I can’t tell you about the insane dirt roads in the Saghro or the few beautiful little surprises on the way to Zagora, but I hope the landscape will blow your mind enough to make you want to come back for another trip with *at least* five times more time... or five trips... Zagora: I approve of the hostel Perju recommended. The name’s terrible, but otherwise, I like going to Auberge Soleil du Monde—it’s nice with kids and far from the city... Take a relaxed walk in the evening or morning through the old town of Amzrou; the owner’s really friendly...
Night 6: Chegaga. You’ll have time to go to M’Hamid, but stop just before at Bounou at Camping Esprit Désert (also recommended by Perju, which I approve of), run by Phil, who knows his stuff and can organize a great night in the desert at Chegaga. Otherwise, try M’Hamid—though at Petit Prince, you’ll mostly find charming scammers offering you overpriced junk (if you haven’t been hassled already, because the smooth talkers here are on top form).
Night 7: Do what you want, but enjoy the desert with your kids without rushing, especially since you won’t have your rental car (unless it’s a 4x4)... Head back slowly and why not sleep at the Ksar of Timidarte... Or even head to Ait Ben Haddou if you’re short on time...
Night 8: MRK. On the way back, you’ll have time to stop at Ait Ben Haddou, but even though the place has been ruined lately, it’s still fun for the kids—especially since Kurt Russell peed against the palm tree there (no, I’m keeping that secret to myself)... Obviously, head back via the Ounila, Telouet, and the Tichka...
It’s doable, but it’s a race... Unless your car breaks down, it’s less packed than your first proposal...
Sorry we didn’t see this message—it got buried under the replies about forum features, etc. Sorry because you took the time, so thank you at the same time!
You know now that no, we weren’t just doing our own thing—we simply didn’t see the message. I got an alert about a reply and saw discussions about deleting posts, etc. (see the thread)
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Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
When you send a message, you can edit it only for a certain amount of time—after that, it stays in its original form.
By clicking on "options," you’ll see the choices available to you... but as mentioned, this is only possible for a limited time (I don’t remember exactly how long). If "options" is no longer available, it means the time has run out.
