je voudrai savoir s'il est possible de partir de Bamako ou de ses environs en pirogues jusqu'à Baurem ou Gao en faisant des haltes dans les villages qui bordent le fleuve Niger et comment, par la suite, aller à Kidal et Tessalit, sinon quels autres moyens de transports peut-on trouver sur place. Les tarifs sont-ils raisonnables ?
Je voudrai aussi savoir si en septembre la saison des pluies commence à s'atténuer ou si c'est toujours les grosses pluies.
Merci d'avance pour les renseignements.
Bonjour, Merci de ta réponse !
je voudrai venir au mois de septembre est-il possible de faire le trajet à cette période sur le Niger étant donné que c'est la fin de la saison des pluies ?
Mélanie.
Je compte bien éviter la pluie, mais je crois que cela ne va pas être facile et puis de toute maniére ça fait parti du voyage, c'est la saison des pluies. merci encore.
Mélanie.
en septembre-octobre, la saison des pluies touche à sa terme mais après, le fleuve a le plus haut niveau d'eau ... c'est donc le temps idéal pour la navigation !
En septembre, tu n'auras pas de problème avec les pluies. Les grosses pluies sont en juillet et en août ...
Petite note : tu parles toujours de "pirogue" (à perche) ... Je suppose que tu veux dire "pinasse" (= pirogue à moteur). Supposons que tu veuilles partir en pirogue de Mopti à Bourem ou même à Gao, tu aurais besoin de plusieurs semaines pour venir à bout de ce parcours !
Par ailleurs, sais-tu, c'est à quelle distance, Gao ?! De Mopti à Tombouctou, ce sont environ 300 km, de Tombouctou à Bourem, ce sont 320 km, de Bourem à Gao, 100 km ... et le tout par une pinasse spartiate ?! J'ai vécu 8 mois au delta intérieur du Niger (à Youvarou), pendant cette période, j'ai pris souvent la pinasse (de marchandises) pour joindre autres villes (Mopti, Youvarou, Niafounké, Attara) : c'est merveilleux et unique mais ces virées ne se comparent pas à un parcours Mopti - Bourem/Gao ...
En plus, tu as la possibilité de prendre le gros bateau, la Comanav, au moins pour une étape. Tu vois, en septembre, tu as plusieurs moyens de transport à ta disposition pour un voyage sur le fleuve ... Je te conseille de faire escale à certaines villes et villages (Aka, Youvarou, Niafounké, Diré, Tombouctou, Gourma Rharous, Bamba, Bourem).
Un voyage sur le fleuve est une aventure unique, tu vivras des paysages magnifiques le long du fleuve !!! Bon voyage !!!
Bonjour, hery.
Je suis interessé a faire le trajet Mopti-Youvarou aller/retour en pinasse de marchandise, en Aout. Je les doutes suivantes: Est-il preferable de comencer le trajet a Mopti o c'est mieux de prendre un baché jusqu'a Konna et negotier la avec les pinnasiers directement? Il est possible de trouver un logement a Youvarou? (je suppose que oui, tu as vecu 8 mois la-bas, mais comment le trouver?). Qu'est-ce que tu peux reconter de ce village completement laissé de coté par les guides de voyage?
Salut!
Oracio
C'est sans aucun doute préférable de commencer le trajet à Mopti. Tu gagnes quoi en partant à Konna ?! P.ex. sais-tu s'il y a des pinassiers là-bas ?! Tu ne trouves sûrement pas des pinasses de marchandises à Konna. Le village de Youvarou est complètement fourni en alimentaires de Mopti ... C'est Mopti, le centre de commerce pour la région, Konna n'est rien d'autre qu'un bled. A Konna, tu trouves tout au plus une pinasse privée (qui coûte cher) et sûrement des pirogues (qui ne font guère un trajet de Konna à Youvarou, 60 km) ... En dehors de la saison des pluies, tu peux atteindre Youvarou avec camion, mais en août c'est pas possible. La Comanav ne fait escale qu'à Aka mais pas à Youvarou (pourtant, tu pourrais descendre du gros bateau à Aka. Là, tu trouves sans problème une pirogue qui te prend à Youvarou : un tel trajet est riche en aventure mais très compliqué). Donc, il faut prendre la pinasse exclusivement !
Moi, j'étais à Youvarou il y a quelques années de cela (pour faire des recherches linguistiques sur une langue bozo). Pendant mon séjour, il n'y avait une auberge ni un resto (mis à part un tout petit et sombre cagibi pour boire du thé et du café mais pas du tout de la bière) ni téléphone ni courant (j'ai entendu parler qu'il y a entre-temps une cabine téléphonique. Quel progrès !). Il y a plusieurs magasins à choix varié et le grand marché de vendredi ... C'est Youvarou, chef-lieu du cercle "Farimakè" au nord du delta intérieur et village le plus grand et important dans la région autour du lac Débo !!! Voilà !!! Tu peux trouver un logement chez l'habitant, bien sûr !
Tu dis que les guides de voyage le laisse de côté ... Bien sûr, évidemment ! Si personne ne rend visite à ce village ... (je n'ai pas rencontré un seul blanc pendant mon séjour). Donc, Youvarou n'est pas un lieu touristique ! Si tu cherches quelque chose intéressante à voir, ce n'est pas la peine que tu fasses le trajet mais si tu t'intéresses pour la vraie et difficile vie en brousse, tu es dans le vrai ... Tu as le choix !
Bonne journée, bon week-end !!!
(Oracio, en cas où tu partirais à Youvarou, serais-tu prêt d'emmener 2 ou 3 lettres de moi pour les livrer chez mes amis ?!)
En fait, l'interet par Youvarou venait du fait que je n'aurait pas le temps d'aller en pinasse jusqu'a Toumbouktu et retourner.
Apres la visite de San, Djenné, Mopti et une semaine de trek dans le Pays Dogon, il ne me restera que 2 ou 3 jours pour flanner dans le Delta du Niger, avant de prendre le chemin de retour et passer quelques jours a Segou et Bamako.
J'avait vu Youvarou dans la cote du lac Debo sur le plan, mais je ne trouvait nulle part des infos dur ce village. L'aller/retour en pinasse Mopti-Lac Debo pourrait peut etre remplir ces 2/3 jours.
Apart les lieux vraiment touristiques, j'aime bien aussi connaittre d'autres lieux juste pour appercevoir comment les gens du coin vivent. Ce n'est pas un probleme de passer quelques jours sans biere ou dans un logement sans aucun luxe.
Quand je parlais de prendre la pinnasse a Konna, je croyait gagner un peu de temps sur l'eau, en supposant que les pinnases qui partent de Mopti s'arretent dans ce village, et qu'il y aurait moins de "faux guides" qu'ailleurs.
Si tu veux, je peut enmener ces lettres, mais je ne peut pas te garantir que j'arriverai a Youvarou. Ça dependera de comment la premiere partie de notre voyage se deroule par rapport a ce qui est prevu aujourd´hui.
Tu peux me contacter par message privé si tu veux.
Les pinasses de marchandises pour Youvarou n'arrêtent pas à Konna.
A vrai dire, il faut plus de 2 ou 3 jours pour visiter Youvarou. Le trajet aller se produit du 18h à 5h le lendemain, le trajet retour se produit de 14h à 4h le lendemain (au moins celui du samedi) à pinasse de marchandises (les pinasses privées sont plus vite mais coûtent plus plus cher) ... Il y a environ 3 pinasses par semaine pour Youvarou ! En résumé, je te conseille de renoncer à ce plan !
Mais au chemin de retour, tu pourrais faire le trajet Mopti - Maasina par pinasse ... Il y a des pinasses de marchandises qui font le trajet Maasina - Mopti ... A Maasina (lieu libre de guides), tu as le choix : il y a des taxi-brousses et sotramas qui circulent entre Maasina et Ségou, plusieurs fois jour par jour ! Pas de problème !
Par ailleurs, à San tu trouves une belle mosquée de banco qui ne doit pas reculer devant la plus connue de Mopti (le même est valable pour celle de Niono). Pour Ségou, je te conseille de loger chez l'hôtel Djoliba (à terrasse à lits, pas trop cher) tenu par une famille allemande, amis de moi ... Un lieu super pour se recueillir après le parcours avant !!!
KA SIRA DIYA !!!
Amitié, hgb
(Oracio, qu'est-ce que les cyclistes basques ont donc ?! Même dans les Pyrénées, je ne les ai vus pas ...)
Merci Hery pour ces infos, il est vrai que je n'ai pas pris compte du terme "temps" (qui est rare en Afrique) j'aurai un mois. Mais je ferai une partie du voyage en transport terrestre, la pinasse (merci aussi pour la remarque avec piroque) est un transport local que je veux tester par simple curiosité, et cela fais parti de la vie du fleuve. Voyager au Mali sans aller sur le Niger me semble impossible. Merci encore pour tes renseignements.
d'abord, tu dis »Voyager au Mali sans aller sur le Niger me semble impossible« : CHAPEAU, je pourrais t'embrasser en raison de ces paroles ... Tu es une personne rare qui a bien compris ce qui est la pièce maîtresse de ce pays. C'est le fleuve, le cœur et le moteur du Mali. Pourtant, tout le monde courent de tous les diables au pays Dogon (parfois, on pourrait croire que le Mali n'existe que du pays Dogon - quelle erreur) : MERCI !!!
Espérons que je n'ai pas dérangé tes plans de voyage ...
En tout cas, j'aimerais t'encourager à voyager sur le fleuve. Tu pourrais prendre le gros bateau, la Comanav :
Circulation entre juillet et fin novembre (dépendant du niveau d'eau du Niger)
Prix Mopti - Gao environ Fcfa 65.000 (en 2e classe) ou Fcfa 40.000 (en 3e classe)
Durée : trois journées totales, départ de Mopti le jeudi soir et arrivée à Gao la nuit du dimanche au lundi (en cas normal)
Arrêts : entre autres Niafounké, Tonka, Diré, Tombouctou, Mandiakoy, Gourma-Rharous, Bamba, Bourem.
Réservation possible et parfois recommandable
Comanav Mopti : Tél. 00223-2430006
Tu pourrais prendre la Comanav et la pinasse également ... !!!
Je te souhaite un bon voyage au Mali et particulièrement sur le fleuve Niger - une aventure unique en son genre !!!
Comme tu le dis, peut etre la frequence des pinasses pour Youvarou m'obligera a renoncer a mon plan. On vera bien. C'est la première fois que j'entends parler de quelque chose similaire a des horaires etablis pour les pinasses au Niger. Je suppose qu'il sera plus facile de s'informer sur place.
J'aime bien ton idee du trajet Mopti/Maasina (je suppose qu'il s'agit du Massina qui apparait dans les guides). De cette façon je pourrait faire le trajet sur le Niger dans la direction de mon destin suivant: Segou. Le Bradt Guide marque deux jours de trajet en pinasse. Peux tu confirmer si on parle du meme ordre de grandeur?
J'en profite de ton experience! Pendant ma première semaine au Mali, je pense aussi me deplacer de Djenné a Mopti en pinasse. J'ai entendu parler de 5/6 heures de pinasse sur le Bani, et qu'elles sont plus frequentes le mardi après le marche de Djenné et mercredi avant le marché de Mopti. As-tu realisé ce trajet?
Je note la recommendation de l'hotel a Segou.
Salut
Oracio
(En ce qui concerne le Tour, tu n'as pas vu les basques au Pyrennés? Il y avait plein, surtout dans les bords de la route! Ce qui vont en velo avec le maillot orange sont de privilegés qui ont gagné a la Loto basque de regarder la course de plus près. Par contre, cette année je n'ai pas vu ce gros mec qui fait toujours deuxième... Il s'appele comment, lui? ;-)
Bonjour Hery,
avec tous ces renseignements je devrai parvenir à prendre un bateau pour aller sur le Niger, mais j'aurai encore une petite question : est-il possible de parcourir Gao-Niamey par le fleuve avec ce moyen de transport ?
Merci encore.
Mélanie.
NON, c'est pas possible ... Au Mali, il y a une seule compagnie de navigation (la Comanav) possédant deux ou trois bateaux (entre autre l'ancien Général Soumaré et le Kankan Moussa). Ces bateaux circulent entre Koulikoro et Gao. Gao est le "terminus" ... Pour autant que je sache, l'Etat nigérien n'exerce pas une compagnie de navigation ! Donc, pour suivre le fleuve jusqu'à Niamey, il faut que tu prennes une pinasse ...
Je te conseillerais de faire ce parcours en plusieurs étapes :
a. Mopti - Tombouctou
b. Séjour à Tombouctou
c. Tombouctou - Gao
d. Séjour à Gao
Ça vaut le coup de rester quelques jours à Tombouctou (même si la réalité sur place est plus triste que son mythe) et à Gao (une ville très atypique pour le Mali mais très intéressante et très très poussiéreuse) ... Par ailleurs, les marchés de Gao (devant l'hôtel Atlantide & au bord du fleuve; en plus, il y a un grand marché de bétail y compris des chameaux) sont fascinants ...
Amicalement, hgb
(Note pour la réservation : N'achète jamais un billet à Bamako ! Pourquoi ?! Alors, il peut se faire que le guichet de la Comanav à Bamako vend un billet à toi, et par manque de communication, le guichet à Mopti vend le même billet à une autre personne. Achat sur place exclusivement, et si possible, au jour de départ !!!)
d'abord, je m'excuse franchement auprès de toi de mon retard ...
Tu écris " C'est la première fois que j'entends parler de quelque chose similaire a des horaires etablis pour les pinasses au Niger " ... Oracio, il y a beaucoup de villages au delta qui sont complètement séparés du monde extérieur dans la saison des pluies. Sans trafic de pinasses, ils ne pourraient exister ... C'est la réalité ! Quant à Youvarou, toutes les denrées alimentaires (pas produites dans la région quand-même ) sont transportées par pinasses. Les gens-là mangent, s'habillent et font du commerce ... Et leurs "matériels" ne tombent du ciel !!! Il faut des moyens de transport pour les leur donner !!! Oracio, moi je ne parle que du Youvarou et des pinasses de marchandises (pas de celles des touristes), et j'en dis qu'il existe un trafic régulier entre Mopti et Youvarou ...
La petite ville de Massina dont je parle, se trouve au sud du delta, donneur de nom pour la région aussi, ville au bord du fleuve, entre Diafarabé et Ségou ... Massina est une ville très calme, je l'ai visitée en octobre 2004.
Oui, je suis d'accord sur le marque de "2 jours pour Mopti - Ségou" - c'est juste, à peu pres ...
Oracio, je te conseillerais de faire une seule parcours en pinasse/pirogue : Djenné - Mopti ou Mopti - Massina (ou Ségou) mais pas du tout les deux ... !!!
Non, je n'ai pas réalisé le trajet Djenné - Mopti ... Bien sûr, je connais le marché de lundi à Djenné ... Conseil, cheche de propres tuyaux à Djenné !
Amicalement, hgb
(quant aux cyclistes basques, bien sûr, je les ai vus aux Pyrénéens mais à la fin du péloton ... En anciens temps, les grimpeurs basques ont dominé les étapes de montagnes mais aujourd'hui ... au mamelon le plus petit, ils roulent en marche arrière ... Sauf Zubeldia et Landaluze, un vide total. Iban Mayo, une grande déception. Bon, c'est comme ça, moi, je suis très happy à cause de Andreas Klöden. Lui va gagner le Tour !!!
Oui, moi aussi, je n'ai également pas vu "le gros mec qui fait toujours* deuxième". Malheureusement, son amie lui a préparé un mauvais repas (trop du sel), donc il ne peut pas prendre part à ce Tour).
* Objection ! En 1997, il a gagné le Tour dans un fauteuil ...
Je lisais le forum au sujet des transport au Mali ... Moi je cherche un moyen de rejoindre le Maroc depuis le Mali ... Est ce possible ??? J'ai vu sur un autre forum qu'il est possible de faire le trajet en allant d'abord à Dakkar au Sénégal par le train et ensuite j'imagien qu'il y a un train pour le Maroc ... Pouvez vous m'en dire plus si possible ...
Merci
Une future habitante du Mali ...
La vie est un voyage en soit. Alors vas-y fonce !!!
Pour remonter sur le Maroc depuis le Mali !! c'est mieux de passer dirrectement en Mauritanie et Maroc en suivant !!
Il y a un train qui fait Sénégal (Dakar) au Mali (Kayes) mais c'est tout comme train dans ce secteur, de plus, tu te déplace vers l'Ouest !! et ton but est plutot vers le Nord !!
Pas de train pour rejoindre le Maroc !! reste les bus ou les taxis brousses !!ou l'avion !!
Tu l'as bien dit ("On vera sur place combien ...") : c'est ça, le tout est plutôt aléatoire au Mali, trop de planning est donc insensé. "Improvisation", c'est la parole magique !
Je te souhaite un séjour extra au Mali, plein de plaisanterie et de nouvelles connaissances ...
hgb
(après le cas de Landis, j'en reste coi ... Je ne m'étonne plus de rien !)
Bonjour,
c'est bien possible, mais à mopti c'est encore mieux de prendre la pirogue . J’aimerais vous annoncer que je donne des cours de bambara en toute notion en collectifs et individuels à Bamako et sur Internet pour ceux prévoient un voyage au mali et souhaitent acquérir quelques notions de salutations avant le départ. Si ça vous intéresse où même vous avez des amis qui souhaitent apprendre le bambara, passez le message.
Mes contactes : abdoul.keita@afrik.com, abdoul.keita@live.fr, tel: (00223) 677 85 48 Bamako Mali .
Merci de votre bonne compréhension.
Mr Abdoul Keita
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I'm looking for a fishing camp in Casamance, south of the Casamance River, between Djembering and Cap Skirring—not too isolated.
Any info on Villa Terranga? I’ve sent several messages but haven’t gotten a response.
Other fishing camps?
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.