Trek Landmannalaugar-Thorsmörk et Kerlingarfjöll: paysages différents ou similaires? (Islande)
by Mikabu
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Je pense que mon précédent message était trop touffu. Donc je vais poser mes questions par petits bouts
J'ai programmé le trek, réservé les refuges.
Maintenant je me pose la question d'aller avec mon petit 4x4 à l'intérieur vers Kerlingarfjöll qui semble magnifique, mais après avoir passé 5 jours dans ce trek, au milieu de ces paysages, cela vaut-il encore la peine de prendre la route F35 ? Les paysages sont -ils différents ?
Ou ferais-je mieux de consacrer plus de temps aux autres régions.
Qu'en pensez-vous ?
D'avance merci pour votre aide
Cordialement
Michèle
Pour moi en Islande, l'autre trek exceptionnel et tres different est Hornstrandir.
oui c'est vraiment pas du tout dans le même coin donc très différent.
C'est une autre idée à creuser mais combien de temps mini pour y aller ? Peux tu me donner des précisions ?
Dans ce cas je devrais abandonner la traversée par la F35 et la région de Kerlingarfjöll
Au fait as-tu fait le trek Landmannalaugar-Thorsmörk ? et la F35
En voyant le peu de temps qui me reste pour voir tout le reste qui semble splendide, j'ai presque des regrets d'avoir consacré tant de temps à ce trek !
Merci de me répondre encore une fois
Moi je fais de la rando, je ne voyage pas en 4x4. Pour Hornstandir, il faut y aller et en revenir en bateau de Isafjordur. On, peut y aller juste pour 2 ou 3 jours, ou plus. Voir www.vesturferdir.is.
Bonjour,
On a le mm projet de faire le trek pendant notre séjour en Islande. Je ne peux évidemment t'aider, n'y étant pas encore allé mais on peut peut-être profiter de nos réflexions. Voir forum: http://voyageforum.com/forum/islande_en_4x4_trekking_avec_adolescents_D5610804/ Une question: comment comptes-tu récupérer ta voiture à la fin du trek? Pour le moment, on a choisi l'option bus de Thormork, nuit à Hella et bus le lendemain vers Landmannalaugar...
On a le mm projet de faire le trek pendant notre séjour en Islande. Je ne peux évidemment t'aider, n'y étant pas encore allé mais on peut peut-être profiter de nos réflexions. Voir forum: http://voyageforum.com/forum/islande_en_4x4_trekking_avec_adolescents_D5610804/ Une question: comment comptes-tu récupérer ta voiture à la fin du trek? Pour le moment, on a choisi l'option bus de Thormork, nuit à Hella et bus le lendemain vers Landmannalaugar...
Les paysages du trek du Laugavegur (Landmannlaugar-Skogar) sont bien différents de ceux de Kerlingarfjoll. Le Laugavegur est d'ailleurs très varié : champs de lave, désert de cendre, montagne verdoyantes, rivières, glaciers... c'est franchement superbe ! Un trek dans le massif de Kerlingarfjoll est aussi sympa.
Le Hornstrandir c'est aussi très beau et là vraiment totalement différent... mais j'ai préféré le Laugavegur et le massif de Kerlingarfjoll : l'activité volcanique est un plus non négligeable.
L'été passé, j'ai fais les deux treks dont tu parle, j'ai fais un topo accompagnés de photos sur mon blog : http://treketnature.uniterre.com/Islande/
Le Hornstrandir c'est aussi très beau et là vraiment totalement différent... mais j'ai préféré le Laugavegur et le massif de Kerlingarfjoll : l'activité volcanique est un plus non négligeable.
L'été passé, j'ai fais les deux treks dont tu parle, j'ai fais un topo accompagnés de photos sur mon blog : http://treketnature.uniterre.com/Islande/
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Merci beaucoup pour ton témoignage et ton blog. Je commençais à regretter presque mon choix de faire ce trek qui me prend presque 1/3 de mon voyage. Non, si le temps est de notre côté ça va être super ! Il faudra seult qu'on fasse attention au poids de notre sac, car on n'est plus tout jeunes (+ 60) et nos tout derniers treks on les a faits avec porteurs !
Concernant la région de Kerlingarfjöll, y a-t-il des balades de quelques heures, une 1/2 journée maxi, à faire au bout de la piste (on a un petit 4x4) ou faut-il absolument y rester 2 nuits ?
Sinon sur ton blog tu ne parles pas du Lakagigar ni de Askja. Cela me tenterait bien. (Simplement sans faire de trek pour autant. Après le Laugavegur on ne fera que des petites balades d'une journée maxi, question de compromis dans le couple.) Si quelqu'un a un avis, sur intérêts de ces 2 régions / aux 2 précédentes, je suis preneuse.
C'est vraiment cette Islande là qui m'attire, alors que mon mari voudrait ne pas rater les fjords. Donc on fera la péninsule de Snaefellsnes pour voir le Centre de la Terre et faire l'ascension du volcan. Si vous avez des infos, sur le temps nécessaire et la difficulté...
Mais par contre je ne pense pas qu'on ait le temps pour les fjords du nord-ouest, à moins juste de traverser et aller jusqu'à Latrabjarg avant de revenir sur la péninsule de Vatnsnes . Qu'en pensez-vous ? Possible en 1 jour en prenant le ferry du matin ? Et cela en vaut-il la peine en si peu de temps ?
J'ai un peu débordé le sujet du précédent message, mais j'ai tellement de doutes et comme on ne campe pas il faut se décider maintenant, les hébergements pas chers étant, pour certains, déjà complets.
Merci de votre aide Michèle
Concernant la région de Kerlingarfjöll, y a-t-il des balades de quelques heures, une 1/2 journée maxi, à faire au bout de la piste (on a un petit 4x4) ou faut-il absolument y rester 2 nuits ?
Sinon sur ton blog tu ne parles pas du Lakagigar ni de Askja. Cela me tenterait bien. (Simplement sans faire de trek pour autant. Après le Laugavegur on ne fera que des petites balades d'une journée maxi, question de compromis dans le couple.) Si quelqu'un a un avis, sur intérêts de ces 2 régions / aux 2 précédentes, je suis preneuse.
C'est vraiment cette Islande là qui m'attire, alors que mon mari voudrait ne pas rater les fjords. Donc on fera la péninsule de Snaefellsnes pour voir le Centre de la Terre et faire l'ascension du volcan. Si vous avez des infos, sur le temps nécessaire et la difficulté...
Mais par contre je ne pense pas qu'on ait le temps pour les fjords du nord-ouest, à moins juste de traverser et aller jusqu'à Latrabjarg avant de revenir sur la péninsule de Vatnsnes . Qu'en pensez-vous ? Possible en 1 jour en prenant le ferry du matin ? Et cela en vaut-il la peine en si peu de temps ?
J'ai un peu débordé le sujet du précédent message, mais j'ai tellement de doutes et comme on ne campe pas il faut se décider maintenant, les hébergements pas chers étant, pour certains, déjà complets.
Merci de votre aide Michèle
Concernant la région de Kerlingarfjöll, y a-t-il des balades de quelques heures, une 1/2 journée maxi, à faire au bout de la piste (on a un petit 4x4) ou faut-il absolument y rester 2 nuits ?
Il y a de très belles balades à faire en quelques heures. Si la piste est sèche, je vous conseille de continuer la route après le camping et les huttes. Nous avons pris cette route avec un bus WW non-4x4... mais la route était parfaitement sèche, donc on es monté facilement même dans les deux ou trois passages très raide. La première partie de la marche jusqu'à la vallée géothermique n'étant pas la meilleure. Une fois arriver au bout de cette route, garez-vous et descendez au fond de la gorge où coule la rivière chaude. De là, plusieurs sentiers partent : prenez en qui fait une boucle pas trop longue.
Sur la carte ci-dessous, le point noir correspond au plus bel endroit géothermique, près d'un parking. Tout en haut de cette carte, il y le signe "camping". C'est là où la plus part des gens s'arrête, près des huttes. La piste carrossable raide dont je parle est marquée en pointées. Le chemin pédestre qui y mène est en vert (c'est le N°2). Je ne sais trop quelle balades vous conseiller depuis ce point : peut-être la boule N°6+7... mais vous verrez bien ce qui vous tente une fois arriver à ce point centrale de départ. Le trait en rose c'est le trek que j'ai effectué.

Je ne sais pas si mes explications sont claires, mais n'hésitez pas à me demander des précisions si jamais.
Pour tes autres questions par contre, je ne peux pas t'aider : je n'ai n'y été vers Askja, ni le Snaefellsnes. Désolé !
Il y a de très belles balades à faire en quelques heures. Si la piste est sèche, je vous conseille de continuer la route après le camping et les huttes. Nous avons pris cette route avec un bus WW non-4x4... mais la route était parfaitement sèche, donc on es monté facilement même dans les deux ou trois passages très raide. La première partie de la marche jusqu'à la vallée géothermique n'étant pas la meilleure. Une fois arriver au bout de cette route, garez-vous et descendez au fond de la gorge où coule la rivière chaude. De là, plusieurs sentiers partent : prenez en qui fait une boucle pas trop longue.
Sur la carte ci-dessous, le point noir correspond au plus bel endroit géothermique, près d'un parking. Tout en haut de cette carte, il y le signe "camping". C'est là où la plus part des gens s'arrête, près des huttes. La piste carrossable raide dont je parle est marquée en pointées. Le chemin pédestre qui y mène est en vert (c'est le N°2). Je ne sais trop quelle balades vous conseiller depuis ce point : peut-être la boule N°6+7... mais vous verrez bien ce qui vous tente une fois arriver à ce point centrale de départ. Le trait en rose c'est le trek que j'ai effectué.

Je ne sais pas si mes explications sont claires, mais n'hésitez pas à me demander des précisions si jamais.
Pour tes autres questions par contre, je ne peux pas t'aider : je n'ai n'y été vers Askja, ni le Snaefellsnes. Désolé !
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Je te conseille de t'y arrêter un petit moment : un bon bain dans l'eau chaude, entouré de fumerolles avec les glaciers en toile de fond : ça vaut le coup ;). Par contre effectivement, mieux vaut dormir à Kerlingarfjoll.
Pour des topos de treks et des informations précises sur les pays que j'ai visités, rendez-vous sur mon blog : https://treketvoyages.com/.
Il fonctionne comme un modeste guide de voyage et non comme un récit de voyage.
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
Pour me suivre en photo : https://www.instagram.com/julien_trek/
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Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
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I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont. The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
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I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
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So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
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We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips! 🙂
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I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
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We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
A few details: We arrive in early August and leave in early September. We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery! We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat? Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Thanks! :-)
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I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations. Thanks so much for your tips!
Hi there,
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July. I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route. Can anyone give me some info on this? Thanks!
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July. I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route. Can anyone give me some info on this? Thanks!
hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there? A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions? For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip... Thanks for your tips! Have a great day, Anie, Toulouse
Hi,
I’d like some advice on doing the Camino de Santiago—or part of it—from the Basque Country.
Best,
Hi there,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice? Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
Hi there,
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?