Bonjour ,
Je suis allé déjà deux fois au tadjikistan, mais je ne suis jamais allé dans la vallée du Bartang.
Jusqu'ou est elle vraiment praticable?
je suis en train de la tracer, (elle rejoint la M41 directement au niveau dur lac karakul .)
amis elle s'avère assez technique.
Pour ceux qui la connaisse , a quel période y étiez vous ?
Seconde question qui connait le lac Turumtaykul (sur la M41 entre khorog et alichur pour faire large)
Enfin wakham , la frontière a iskashim / Af
j'aurai des questions en mp svp
Hello,
pas fait la vallée en question, ni le lac dont tu parles ( par contre je suis allé au Yashilkul en faisant une boucle Alichur Bulunkul, superbe !)
Pour le Wakham et Iskashim c'est quoi la question....😉
ps: j'ai mis des photos avec ma réponse sur la mer d'Aral.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Je n'ai pas traversé la frontière à Ishkashim , déjà parce que je n'avais pas prévu de passer en Afghanistan et également elle était fermée lors de notre passage ( en août 2016 ) suite à des affrontements entre Talibans et armée Tadjike .
Nous avions fait un bivouac un peu après Ishkashim en direction de Langar. Au matin des militaires en patrouille ont été étonnés de nous voir là et nous ont dit que le coin n'était tout de même pas très sûr ...de l'autre coté ils avaient, en ce moment, la gâchette facile ...vrai ou faux ???
Sinon nous avons fait la boucle Khorog/ Ishkashim / Langar et passe vers la M41 (Karhgush pass si mes souvenirs sont bons ...)
Un tite vidéo de la piste en haut de la vallée , avant de passer la Karhgush pass
www.youtube.com/...xtafLkDUY&t=285s
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Warham, je devine que ça doit être Wakhan, mais Darang ???
L'état de la piste de la vallée de Bartang est très variable. En période de hautes eaux c'est non seulement technique, mais parfois coupé. Certains passages peuvent se franchir en portant le vélo avec de l'eau jusqu'aux cuisses, mais à moto c'est plus difficile 😛 . La période de hautes eaux peut varier d'une année sur l'autre, mais en gros, le pire est souvent entre mi-juin et mi-juillet.
La piste entre M41 et vallée de Roshtqala, qui longe le lac Turumtaykul, est elle aussi inégalement accessible : il y a un gué parfois difficile en amont de Djavshanguz, je ne sais pas exactement où. J'avais fait demi-tour à Djavshanguz pour retourner à Khorog, car au moment où j'y étais (début juillet), il y avait trop d'eau dans les rivières pour passer. 1 ou 2 semaines plus tard ça passait par contre sans problème pour les 4x4.
La frontière TJ/AF à Ishkashim est franchissable, le consulat afghan à Khorog peut délivrer un visa. Mais la frontière ferme parfois sans préavis pour des durées indéterminées. Je n'ai pas d'info récente sur la situation dans la région.
Merci Meg,
heu oui zut pour l’orthographe de la vallée de Bartang, et pour le wakhan , c'est la confusion avec la phonétique "warhann
Ben c'est ce que je pense... , soit ça passe en mai juin, mais il peut encore avoir des chutes de neige, soit c'est août et septembre, mais pas possible pour moi :-(
Bon je verrai jusqu'ou ca passe ;-)
Pour le Lac Turumtaykul, j'ai trouvé Jawshangoz, je suppose que c'est ça. bon mon idée n'est pas de faire cette vallée de Roshtqala, a moins que tu me dise que c'est un incontournable.
je pense traverser pour l'afgha , oui j 'ai un col aller vérifier , enfin jusqu’où il est praticable.. pour l'année prochaine ;-)
Pour le Lac Turumtaykul, j'ai trouvé Jawshangoz, je suppose que c'est ça. bon mon idée n'est pas de faire cette vallée de Roshtqala,
la piste qui longe ce lac Turumtaykul conduit soit à la vallée de Roshtqala (en passant par Djavshanguz), soit au col Mats. Le col Mats, je n'y suis pas passée, mais j'avais regardé le blog d'un cyclo qui l'avait fait : pour passer du lac Turumtaykul au corridor de Wakhan par le col Mats, à vélo, y a pas mal de poussage, c'est une bonne galère. J'avais vu l'arrivée de la piste du col Mats là où elle rejoint la vallée du Pamir en amont de la jonction avec le Wakhan : visiblement très peu fréquentée, je ne sais pas si a passe encore avec des véhicules motorisés.
La vallée de Roshqala par contre, entre Djavshanguz et Khorog, c'est une piste assez facile (et même de la route dans le bas de la vallée) , avec des paysages variés, et plusieurs villages où on peut se ravitailler ou faire étape ; j'avais bien aimé.
Avec 2 véhicules nous avons parcouru ces 3 vallées en septembre 2017.
Wakham à la descente.
Aucune difficulté.
Roshtqala à la montée.
Moins grandiose que Wakham mais aussi beaucoup moins touristique. Pas de difficulté jusqu'au dernier village, Dzhaushangoz. Ensuite piste de montagne, avec des pierres pour monter au col. La descente vers la M41 est pentue et probablement un peu plus difficile dans l'autre sens.
Bartang montée jusqu'à Gudara et retour.
Bonne piste sur laquelle nous n'avons pas mouillé un pneu en septembre !
Au delà de Gudara, les informations proviennent de l'encadrement d'un tour operator suisse qui l'avait parcouru quelques jours avant avec un groupe de motards et un Hilux d'assistance. Après Gudara, une cinquantaine de km mal entretenus et aléatoires à cause des possibles éboulements des pierriers puis quelques lacets pour atteindre le plateau. Ensuite pas de difficulté notable.
Merci pour ces renseignements , je vais regarder cela ce soir sur les cartes et mes tracés.
"Bartang montée jusqu'à Gudara et retour.
Bonne piste sur laquelle nous n'avons pas mouillé un pneu en septembre !"
combien avez vous mis de temps pour cet aller et retour?
La vallée est t'elle si belle ? (j'en conviens c'est subjectif)
Pour , je ne compte pas faire cette piste, juste un bivouac au lac Turumtaykul , je souhaite traverser la frontière a iskashim , j'ai des reco a faire pour un autre voyage . j'emprunterai donc la piste du wakham.
En tout cas merci pour ces précieux renseignements;
Thierry
Bonjour Thierry et les autres,
Je me permets un petit hors-sujet car je vois que vous êtes plusieurs à assez bien connaître la région...
Est-il envisageable d'aller par là 1ère quinzaine d'octobre?
Bivouac envisageable ou déjà trop froid en altitude?
Merci!
Marie
Bonjour Marie,
sans y être allé à cette période, je pense qu'à ces altitudes, il doit faire frisquet la nuit ...
Pour info, même si ce n'est pas comparable, en octobre dernier ( en début de mois) j'ai fait quelques bivouacs à 2500 m en Iran, donc beaucoup plus au sud et bien plus bas ...j'ai supporté le duvet et le soir c'était polaire et sous-vêtement adaptés ...😉
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Salut Jean-pierre!
Oui c'est ce que je pense aussi mais j'ai super envie d'y aller et on n'a pas d'autres créneaux dispo cette année (sauf fin mars début avril mais c'est pire je pense!)
Bivouac envisageable ou déjà trop froid en altitude?
ça dépend de ce que vous considérez comme "trop froid". A Khorog, en octobre, températures nocturnes entre +5 et -5°C.
www.wofrance.fr/weather/maps/city?...
Mais Khorog n'est qu'à 2000m. Au-dessus, soustraire en moyenne 6 ou 7 °C par tranche +1000m d'altitude. Les hauts plateaux sont à 3500-3900m et les cols les plus hauts entre 4200 et 4600m. Et il y a souvent du vent.
Oui je pense que l'automne doit , en général, être plus adapté que la fin d'hiver, notamment en ce qui concerne l'état des routes /pistes, en mars la neige doit être bien présente un peu partout.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Bartang de Rushon à Gudara, 170 km parcourus en environ 8 h de conduite tranquille à l'aller et autant à la descente.
Période du 23 au 25 septembre sans gelées nocturnes.
Décor grandiose devenant oppressant dans les parties les plus étroites des gorges. Une partie "aérienne" à mi parcours.
C'était la dernière vallée parcourue et depuis presque trois mois nous étions un peu saturés de paysages somptueux. Il nous a semblé que c'est la difficulté du parcours qui fait la réputation de la vallée. A cette saison, les croisements constituent la principale difficulté.
Oui le mois d’octobre c'est assez le coup de poker, photo de l’année dernière d'un copain motard:
la première prise le 14 octobre, apres Sary tash, la seconde des Russes le 8 octobre au col Ak Baital
Bonjour Thierry,
Je ne suis plus une Mlle depuis longtemps hélas (😎)! OK, mon pseudo est un peu nul, je débutais sur le net à cette lointaine époque...
Y sont fous ces russes!
Merci pour ces photos très explicites!
Marie
Bonsoir OldCruiser,
merci pour ces infos, cela me donne une idée, donc je prévois un bivouac ou guesthouse s'il y a .
Enfin si la piste n'est pas coupé ou infranchissable par les gués ou autre.
(je voyage en solo)
encore merci pour ces infos.
une question, pourquoi n'etes vous pas allé jusqu'au lac Sarez, la piste était elle trop escarpée?
y avait il bien un pond à cette intersection entre la piste du Bartang ?
hi there! I’m heading to Vietnam with a biker friend for 3 months, starting from Hanoi... the plan is to do the northern loop, return to Hanoi, then head down to Ho Chi Minh City... and probably ride back up through the mountains. We’re leaving in February. Just a little detail—we’re two retirees, both 63, used to riding motorbikes, and we have French and international licenses... we’re looking for good tips and advice since we’re planning to buy 125cc Chinese bikes locally. Thanks to everyone, and happy trails—life is beautiful!
Hey everyone!
New to the forum, but not so new to Asia 😄
I’m Nico, from Switzerland, currently based in Bangkok. I love taking my motorcycle out to get lost in the mountains and small villages of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and more. I’ve been roaming around this area for a good fifteen years now, racking up quite a few kilometers—especially in northern Vietnam.
This time, I finally decided to tackle the Mae Hong Son Loop, clockwise. I’d been to Pai several times before, but oddly enough, I’d never done the full loop.
So, I’ll try to give you a little recap here, day by day, with the roads, stops, places worth checking out… and those that didn’t quite blow my mind 😅
I also filmed the trip, so I’ll post the corresponding video at the end of each day if that’s okay. If it’s not allowed here, just let me know, and I’ll remove them without any issue.
DAY 1 — Chiang Mai → Doi Inthanon → Mae Chaem → Khun Yuam
I left Chiang Mai after renting a Honda ADV 160 from Pop Motorbike. Not exactly an Africa Twin, but for what I had planned, it was more than enough.
Quick hotel note: I stayed at the Lanna Thaphae Hotel before leaving. Around 30 € per night, super well-located, and probably one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in. A crucial detail for any motorcycle road trip, obviously.
The plan for the day was pretty straightforward:
Head toward Doi Inthanon… and see what happens.
Flawless Swiss organization.
First stop along the way at Wachirathan Waterfall. A really nice waterfall, very easy to access, but don’t expect to channel your inner Indiana Jones—it’s crowded, touristy, and swimming isn’t allowed. Still, it’s a pretty stop along the way.
Next, up to Doi Inthanon.
The road climbs steeply, and my little 160cc started to realize that carrying my 80 kg to Thailand’s highest point probably wasn’t part of its youthful dreams. I was maxing out at 34 km/h in some spots.
But it made it. Good little bike.
The summit is nice—the forest is beautiful, and it’s cool—but I have to admit, it didn’t completely wow me. Glad I went, but not necessarily the highlight of the day for me.
Because then comes Route 1192.
And that’s *much* more my thing: small mountain roads, beautiful scenery, hardly any traffic… the kind of road where I usually start taking way too many unnecessary detours just because a little side road “looks fun.”
Stopped in Mae Chaem for a bite to eat, then headed to Khun Yuam to finish the day.
A little over 200 km in total.
Khun Yuam is… quiet.
*Very* quiet. 😅
A cute little market, a couple of cafés/restaurants, and zero chance of ending up in a club until 4 AM. But after a day on the bike, it was perfect.
Stayed at the Mit Khun Yuam Hotel, around 20 € for a small but very decent room.
All in all, a solid first day and a pretty relaxed start to the loop. Part of this leg is mostly about getting out of Chiang Mai and really diving into the mountains, in my opinion.
Because for me, the really interesting stuff starts over the next two days…
And a few slightly questionable route decisions will also make an appearance 😅
If anyone’s planning the Mae Hong Son Loop, feel free to ask your questions—I’d be happy to answer!
I also filmed this first day, so for those who’d rather see the roads and landscapes than read my rambling, here’s Day 1 😊
DAY 1 VIDEO
I’ll post the next part in the coming days with Day 2: Khun Yuam → Mae Surin → Mae Hong Son.
And that’s where it starts getting *really* fun. 😉
That’s all for now! Looking forward to contributing as much as I can to the forum!
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
hi
I’m planning a 10-month trip to South America, and I’m looking into options for shipping a motorcycle to Buenos Aires by air or sea. If anyone has any info, thanks in advance!
christian
Hello everyone.
I'm looking for campsites around BOLZANO (South Tyrol) for early September.
I'll be on my motorcycle with a small tent.
I've noticed that some campsites have exorbitant prices.
If you've traveled through the Dolomites by motorcycle or otherwise and camped there, I'd love any tips on places and prices where I can stay for one night or several.
Thanks to all of you, and happy travels.
I’m starting to think about a trip that’s really close to my heart: Algeria by motorcycle, specifically the southern part of the country. It’d be for January 2025, and I’ve got two main questions:
Is it possible for an individual on a motorcycle to travel freely, outside of any organized tour, or does the regulation require some kind of supervision in the Algerian Sahara region?
Is the Hoggar massif accessible by road or by (rideable) tracks?
Beyond the official recommendations, I’m really looking for your firsthand experiences.
Thanks so much for your answers, and sorry if my questions are a bit newbie!
I just realized I’ve been registered on VoyageForum since... March 28, 2012 😊. Yet, I’ve barely participated until now.
August 1, 2026, will mark a somewhat special milestone: 5 years on the road.
We left Switzerland on August 1, 2021 with a simple idea: let chance decide our direction. We placed a bottle of wine on a world map, spun it... and it chose our first destination.
A year later, when we arrived in Morocco, we faced a new choice: continue toward Africa or head to Asia. This time, a tarot card game made the decision. Since then, we’ve tried to keep this journey as open to the unexpected as possible.
Today, that adds up to about 120,000 km, 46 countries, and over 1,800 days on the road—mostly by motorcycle, but also by sailboat, train, bus, hitchhiking, or on foot when adventure calls.
Our guiding thread isn’t just the motorcycle, but service exchanges. Instead of simply passing through countries, we try to stop regularly to lend a hand to the people we meet. So far, that’s about 600 days of volunteering.
Over the years, we’ve:
renovated a house in Croatia
made earth bricks in the Moroccan desert
helped sail a boat through the Greek islands
looked after houses, dogs, horses, a camel... and lots of other animals
worked at a street art festival in Morocco
created videos for local associations and projects
worked the grape harvest on the Tibetan plateau
been accredited as "media" for the World Nomad Games in Central Asia
Some of the moments that have stuck with us the most include six months in China, a night spent on the Great Wall, the Pamir Highway, the Silk Road, three months in Taiwan, and the incredible encounters in the mountains of Central Asia.
We travel on Falkor, our lucky dragon—a 2014 BMW F800GS that’s been with us since the start and is starting to have some great stories of its own.
While we share our adventure on Instagram, Polarsteps, and YouTube, that’s not why we’re here. The forum’s rules about promotion are clear, and I totally get them. If I’m finally taking the time to write, it’s mostly because after five years on the road, I thought our experience might be useful to other travelers.
Happy to chat about:
preparing for a long motorcycle trip
visas and borders
the Silk Road and Central Asia
riding in China (with or without a motorcycle)
volunteering and service exchanges while traveling
gear, daily life on the road... or just the unexpected moments that make long-term travel so special
Looking forward to swapping stories and hearing about your adventures too! 😊 Greetings from Thailand, and happy to chat! ✌️
Hello, I’m retired and planning a roughly 3-week motorcycle trip (1200gs). The dates aren’t set in stone yet, and everything’s open to discussion—I’m pretty flexible with the planning.
hi
planning to ride through Rajasthan on a motorcycle in January 2027 and I’d love to hear about the road conditions.
I’ll be riding with a buddy on a Royal Enfield that I’ll rent in Delhi.
Thanks for your tips!
hi there
I’d like to ride the RN 12 by motorcycle in September.
I’d love to know the main challenges—I ride a 300cc and do enduro in France.
Thanks for your tips!
I’m planning a motorcycle road trip to Armenia and Georgia in September 2026 or May 2027. I’m looking for one or more riders (male or female) who’d like to explore these countries with me.
Along the way, we’ll visit Cappadocia, the capitals Yerevan, Tbilisi, Sofia, Skopje, and other cities—we can finalize the route and roadbook later.
This trip requires experience with long motorcycle journeys, as we’ll cover around 7,000 km over 5 or 6 weeks (or more, depending on sightseeing and time spent).
I don’t expect dozens of applicants, since motorcycle riders are few and far between on this forum, but I’m putting this out there anyway.
Hi, I’d like to take a 15-day "break" to get away from the surrounding hustle and bustle.
Why not explore the Peloponnese!
I’m not particularly drawn to museums, ruins, or monuments.
I want to experience local life—small villages, seaside spots, beaches, and the interior if the landscapes are extraordinary.
Ideally, coming from Athens, I’d take a bus or train to get as close as possible to a starting point, then rent a scooter (125cc) to explore by taking secondary roads or even coastal paths. I’d stay in 2-3 places for a few days each to discover their surroundings.
Do a loop.
What do you think would be the ideal itinerary?
From Athens, the best option would be to take either a flight or a bus to Kalamata. Rent a scooter and head either west or east. Is there a tertiary road (very lightly trafficked) or a path where I can ride slowly, take it easy, and enjoy the scenery without being bothered by traffic? I’d like to go all the way to Monemvasia, still hugging the coast. I need to find a way to avoid returning to Kalamata to drop off the scooter and catch a flight—maybe a small town where the train stops so I can head back to Athens.
Thanks in advance for your tips.
I want to rent an off-road style motorcycle to get around the coast during my trip to Ecuador. I’m only finding options in Quito. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Hi there,
I’m planning a sidecar trip to South America for 4 or 5 months at the end of this year.
I’m looking for info on shipping my vehicle by sea—possibly to Uruguay or another destination, as I haven’t finalized anything yet.
How do you get visas for the countries I’ll be crossing: Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, and Chile? Are they e-Visas, obtained at the border, or through embassies?
Where can I get vehicle insurance?
Lastly, if any bikers want to join us (my partner and me), we’re open to that possibility too.
Patrick
I’ve got 15 days off in June and I’m pretty undecided about where to go for a motorcycle road trip. Two strong desires are pulling me in different directions: Corsica or Norway.
Corsica has been a dream of mine for a long time: legendary roads, stunning landscapes, a unique vibe, and the perfect mix of sea and mountains. At the same time, I’m wondering if 2 weeks might be *too much* for Corsica—risking feeling like I’ve seen it all too quickly, especially on a bike.
Since I also have an extra week free in May, I could use that specifically for Corsica. Maybe splitting it into two trips would make more sense? If so, which routes or regions would be the most interesting to plan for a 7-day trip?
On the other hand, Norway is *super* appealing. The landscapes look incredible, totally different from anything I’ve experienced, and it’d be a real “wow” trip. I know 15 days is still short for such a vast country. Getting all the way to the North Cape seems pretty much impossible in that time, but I’m curious about what realistic routes could be planned.
So I’m wondering:
Is it better to save Norway for next year, take 3 weeks off, and do it *properly*?
Or are 15 days enough for a first amazing taste of the country?
I’d love to hear about your experiences—whether it’s Corsica (ideal duration, routes) or Norway (what’s realistic in 2 weeks on a bike).
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Hello,
I'm thinking of buying a used small motorcycle to travel around the country for a month and a half.
I've done this in other countries without putting the registration in my name—is that possible in Guinea given the apparently frequent checks, or do I have to go through the paperwork?
Thanks.
Hello,
My dream is to ride Route 66 by motorcycle. I have a disability—while I’m not in a wheelchair, my walking mobility is reduced.
The ideal scenario would be to have a motorcycle driver and ride as their passenger on an organized trip.
Are there any guides or services like this offered by travel agencies?
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Hello,
I’ve got a plan with a friend to go on a motorcycle road trip in 2028 or 2029, starting in Santiago de Chile and ending in Ushuaia, for about a month.
Has anyone done a trip like this before, and what’s the best time of year?
I’ve heard there can be quite a bit of wind depending on the season.
Thanks for any tips!
Cheers,
PA
I'm seriously considering heading to Nepal to do some nice motorcycle loops... my goal is also to do the Kailash Yatra round trip from Kathmandu, in a small group with a guide, in May '26... but here's the thing—I'm solo! So if you're up for sharing a similar adventure, hit me up... Cheers, Frankoys
It's all in the title: I'm heading to Krabi soon and want to rent a scooter for a few weeks, but after reading comments about all kinds of scams, I'm reaching out to ask where and how (read: *the right way*) to rent one.
Thanks for your tips and advice.
Hello everyone! Like every year, a winter migration is on the horizon (revised plan): this time, it’ll be Dakar, or even Abidjan, via Morocco, Mauritania, and Senegal.
Looking for an experienced motorcyclist or pillion rider—small build preferred—on a GSA 1250 with a comfy seat and luggage setup, available from early November to late December 2025. I’d like to plan the trip together (important to me) to make sure we’re on the same wavelength.
Don’t hesitate to get in touch!
Didier
Looking for travel companions to ride from France to Senegal by motorcycle.
I’m Paul, 37, and I’ve already done a bit of riding in Morocco.
For now, I’m solo, riding a 1998 SUZUKI DR 650 with some basic gear to keep things smooth. I’ll have a tent so we can do a few nights under the stars.
We’ll need to coordinate departure dates—"ideally in November."
I’m currently checking out routes to take. Any tips would be welcome! :)
I’m heading to Vietnam and Laos with a buddy next week for a month.
We’re thinking of renting motorbikes, especially to do the Ha Giang Loop. We don’t have an international license, just our Belgian one. Is that enough? If not, is it risky?
In November, we’re planning to do the Ha Giang loop and the RC4 by motorbike without a guide. 😎
We’re looking for a decent place to stay/rent in Ha Giang.
If anyone has any info, we’d be really interested.
Hello! We’re planning a motorcycle trip that will include a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau in June 2026.
We’re unsure (still debating) whether we should stay at a hotel on-site and get to the memorial with an Uber (leaving our bikes at the hotel) and book a guided tour, or base ourselves in Kraków and take a tour that includes transport.
One thing’s for sure—we’d prefer a guide in French since we don’t speak English 😅.
Could you share your experiences or advice?
I understand we need to book online rather than on-site.
Thanks in advance for your replies!
