Venez en GUINÉE !!!!!
Oui , venez , ce pays a besoin de redémarrer au niveau du tourisme.
C’est un beau pays , très vert , avec des reliefs variés , un belle végétation…
Et des populations très gentilles et accueillantes.
Mais de grâce , soyez des touristes intelligents et responsables de vos actes .
Ne donnez jamais , JAMAIS quoique ce soit aux enfants et aux gens sans raison.
Ce pays est totalement différent des autres pays de la sous région : PERSONNE ne tend la main. Personne ne mendie « le stylo » , « le bonbon » , etc…
Pourquoi ? C’est simple car certains cons de touristes ne sont pas encore venus là pour polluer et pervertir les enfants et…. les parents .
Vous voulez apporter des choses ? très bien , donnez les aux enseignants, aux dispensaires , aux chefs de familles qui vous inviterons…
Je paraît faire le donneur de leçons , mais depuis de si longues années de voyages un peu partout dans le monde j’ai vu ce que les touristes apportent de néfaste avec leurs dons gratuits , inutiles et stupides.
Ce que vous donnez n’a pas de valeur ! et des populations dignes deviennent mendiantes avec les étrangers.
Si vous venez avec votre voiture , (ce qui est facile. = prendre votre visa dans le pays précédent , le Mali , par ex . et une autorisation exceptionnelle de circuler avec votre auto.) je me dois de vous prévenir sur les comportements des très nombreux policiers, gendarmes et militaires qui barrent les routes et effectuent des « contrôles » dans le seul but d’obtenir « la dépense » pour le café ou le manger !
Ils essaient tout pour vous trouver une infraction . À vous d’être patients et fermes.
Ces gens ont le même comportement avec les taxis , camions et particuliers.
Sauf que cette « coutume » est tellement ancrée que le billet est déjà près dès l’arrêt !!!
Si vous avez l’habitude de bivouaquer en brousse vous pourrez le faire sans souci.
C’est ce que je fais quasi tout le temps. Et même à proximité d’un village , les enfants vous observeront mais à la nuit tombée vous serez tranquilles.
Une précision pratique , le change est tellement favorable que la vie n’est pas chère …. Pour nous ! à ce jour on change 1€ pour + de 10000Francs guinéens , et la situation politique (qui est calme) ne semble pas en mesure de faire changer cela avant un bon moment.
Encore une fois venez , mais ne faîtes pas de ce pays un nouveau Maroc ou un nouveau Sénégal !!! Où les mains insistantes et presque autoritaires réclament ce que les gens considèrent maintenant comme leur dû.
merci de ces précisions utiles , mais a mon avis tant que la "masse touristique" ne sera pas a semer la pagaille car leur coeur trouve que le petit noir a besoin du soutien du "bon " blanc on sera tranquille . je compte y aller du burkina ou j'habite et ce vers fin fevrier . donc suivant les conseils j'ai pris le tel et adresse du consul a bamako ( merci encore car ce forum est fait avant tout pour cela ) . et après je pense y rester 3 semaines on verra . j'ai vu le land donc si vous y êtes encore je saurais vous stopper !!!! je vais me déguiser en flic ripoux des fois que je pourrais extirper une bonne bière bien tapée !!! merci et au plaisir ... au fait ou change -t-on ??? en frontière les cfa ? merci jef
si vous pensez que l'aventure est dangereuse ... essayez la routine ! elle est mortelle . P. Coelho
Bonjour,
Je suppose que tu parles de la Guinée Bissau ?
Habituée de la Casamance, j'envisage d'y aller faire un tour lors d'un prochain séjour...car j'ai eu de bonnes retombées de voyageurs qui en revenaient (population accueillante et encore digne, belles plages, nature luxuriante...). Merci de toutes ces précisions. Si tu as des tuyaux sur les possibilités d'hébergement, je suis preneuse. (y'a t'il comme en Casamance des campements villageois ?)
Bonne journée
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
cela fait plaisir, que ce pays reparte tout doucement et que le tourisme y vienne........je ne le connais pas, mais étant un authentique amoureux du continent africain, je sais qu'il y a énormément de choses à voir et aussi bien les iles et les plages que l'intérieur du pays avec " le Fouta Djalon ".
Ce serait sympa, de nous faire un petit descriptif de ton parcours dans ce pays que a l'air d'avoir tout particulièrement apprécier.
Amicalement😉
Tant que la couleur de la peau sera plus importante que la couleur des yeux, nous ne connaitrons pas la paix.
La Guinée est un pays très pauvre.
Les transports "en commun" ce sont les taxis collectifs et les bus collectifs qui partent quand ils sont PLEINS !
Prévoir donc des temps de déplacements assez longs, compte tenu de l'état des routes et des véhicules.
Je vis en Guinée plusieurs mois par an, je m'y suis promené pas mal depuis de longues années, mais toujours en véhicule personnel , ce qui facilite la découverte.
Bon pour les plages , c'est plutôt restreint, l'intérieur du pays est plus intéressant ( à mon avis) le Fouta djalon , la région des forêts sont à voir.
Je ne prends jamais de note sur les lieux où je vais , alors pardon de ne pouvoir vous donner des précisions. Je vais travailler avec un responsable du tourisme au niveau ministériel pour obtenir une liste fiable (???) d'hôtels et d'auberges de jeunesse.
je mettrai cela sur le forum , si j'en ai le droit.
Mais je pourrai essayer de répondre à vos questions en tout cas.
ça serait en effet super d'avoir des adresses fiables parce que le petit futé se fout franchement de la gueule du monde, tous les numéros de tél sont erronés, et quand on se pointe aux adresses mentionnées on a l'impression que les restos, les hôtels décrits ont pris 50 ans de désuétude depuis l'écriture du guide...
Je confirme : pays tres interessant . ( Conakry , Kissidougou, Guekedou, Macenta , Labe )
Mais les flics aux barrages routiers peuvent etre une plaie pour racketer .
Les gendarmes eux se conduisent correctement .
Il y a aussi les douaniers de l'aeroport qui demandaient le "cadeau" à l'arrivée ou au départ .
Par contre pas grand chose pour loger dans les petites villes de brousse .
L'electricité est absente dans certaines villes mais les villes de province sont sures le soir .
michel tu as raison allez en guinee (les 2 guinee) j en reviens c etait un voyage super les gens sont tellement differents du senegal gentils respectueux. les paysages sont tres beaux forets montagnes cascades ect..attention le petit fute ne raconte que des erreurs sur les hotels resto visites ect ..les prix sont errones je n ai utilise que les transports locaux .les routes sont tres degradees ou se sont des pistes mais c etait super a bientot michel je suis a dakar danielle
CHUUUTTTT!!!!
Faut pas trop le dire, sinon....
Toutes blagues mises à part, tout est on ne peut plus véridique.
J'ajouterais juste qu'au nord du pays dans certains coins on a l'impression d'être en Suisse : prairies bien vertes, petits ruisseaux, collines alentour, habitants accueillants, randos jusqu'à plus soif, mais pas de banque...!!! Le pied quoi!!!
Cerise sur le gâteau, passer du Fouta Djalon au pays Bassari au Sénégal et poursuivre par la Casamance ou l'inverse, pneu importe...!!!
J'ai l'impression que tu m'as piqué mes répliques concernant ton discours sur les abrutis qui tentent de se donner bonne conscience en s'improvisant "sauveur de l'humanité".... Je t'avais envoyé un mail l'année dernière et tu m'avais dit revenir en juin 2010, pas de nouvelles depuis je suppose que peut être les élections t'avaient fait repousser le périple. Si tu es dans les parages de CKY j'y suis jusqu'à fin aout et serai ravi de partager les bons plans pistes/sites/personnages de une boisson de production locale de chez Sobragui....
A plus j'espère.
Le motard fou....
PHIL
Moins tu sais où tu vas plus tu as de chances d'y arriver ....
Pour les personnes intéressées un très bon guide sur la Guinée existe aux éditions jaguar. Attention il ne vous donnera pas la composition du petit déjeuner au "novotel" ou le prix de la chambre au "royal bel air" (...) mais saura aiguiser votre curiosité et vous donnera plein d'informations actuelles (récentes) sur les principaux coins de tout le pays. A lire absolument pour qui vient ici.
PHIL
Moins tu sais où tu vas plus tu as de chances d'y arriver ....
allez Francia, après la Casamance, en route pour une nouvelle aventure en Guinée qu'elle soit Conakry ou Bissau... mais crois-tu qu'on se trouvera un petit campement sympa au bord d'un bolong où tu pourras te poser pour peindre et moi pour nager ?
biz ma colocacase
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
salut Alex
il y avait déjà du voyage dans l'air avant , mais maintenant ça va être encore mieux avec beaucoup plus de temps , ma copine Rochelle va être jalouse 😉
c'est une bonne idée la Guinée , y es tu déjà allé ?
bonne journée
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
salut Alex
toute cette partie de l'Afrique me tente bien ...ce qui ne saurais tardé ...
Jipi y est en ce moment , j'aurais plus d'infos sur ce pays dès son retour .
a+
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Oui , les destinations de jipi sont plutôt le Burkina et Mada...
Mais la guinée est belle ... et fraîche dans le Fouta en ce moment.
à Conakry : 29° et 67% humide!!!
bonjour Michel
Jipi était à Mada à l'automne , mais pour le début de cette année il a changé de destination .
peut-on rejoindre la Guinée depuis la Casamance , en traversant la Guinée bissau ?
j'aime bien quand tu dis " la Guinée est fraîche , 29° " !!!! 😉
que j'aimerai avoir cette fraîcheur en ce moment !
belle journée
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
les températures sont celles de Conakry , il fait frais dans le Fouta.
Oui on peu joindre la Guinée par la Guinée Bissau et par la Sénégal.
Par Bissau les routes sont bonnes mise à part 30Km avant la frontière de Guinée.
Bonne nouvelle , les barrages sur les routes sont finis.
Ils étaient mis par les militaires souvent illettrés qui voulaient un peu de fric.
bonjour
oui , il y avait de l'ambiance avec JIPI sur le forum Mada entre autres !
d'ailleurs depuis quelques temps , je trouve les discussions bien calme , trop calme ...
belle semaine .
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Oui c'est vrai qu'on regrette l'absence de Jipi sur le forum, mais c'est Maïté qui doit être contente, car il en passait du temps sur le forum à arpenter et commenter les discussions!
Jean-Pierre, si tu nous lis.............. reviennnnnnnnnnnnnnnnns !!!!
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
Bonjour,
je viens d'arriver sur Conakry pour le travail. Et je trouverai cela domage de ne pas en profiter pour vister le pays
donc si un week end vous bougez pensé a moi :-)
Je ne bouge pas particulièrement ces temps ci , mais tu peux aller à Dalaba , ce n'est pas loin de CKY et c'est sympa avec un climat très agréable . Et il y a des excursions intéressantes.
Sur la route vers Boké , peu après Dubréka, à droite il y a les cascades de la Soumba , eau fraîche et douce ....
bonnes balades.
oui , on ne parle plus du Mali 😉 et de l'Afrique de l'ouest en général , sauf , et c'est bien , ce post pour la Guinée .
et puis certain se sont un peu approprier certain forum ( ex celui du Maroc ) certains forumistes ont laissé tombé n'ayant plus envie de discussions stériles et agressives .
et puis le vie fait que l'on se lasse de tout , peut-être aussi de VF ...
mais ce forum m'ayant permis de belles rencontres , je ne vais pas laissé tombé quand même !😏
a+
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Oui ce post sur la Guinée est bon s'il vous donne envie d'y venir.
Et en plus quel repos par rapport au Sénégal où le seul Dieu est maintenant le fric et ensuite le cul...
Et les arnaques diverses et récurrentes.
Bref la Guinée ça n'a rien à voir.
Oh , je vous rappelle que vous ne donnerez RIEN DE RIEN à personne , sauf en échange de service , bien sûr.
Et comme ça ces populations resteront loin de la mentalité des sénégalais et autres marocains.
C'est tellement important et bon d'être dans un pays où les gens nous voient comme des humains et pas uniquement comme des porteurs de fric.
Aller bons voyages !
oui , ça donne bien envie d'y aller !
mais à nous aussi de rester correct et d'avoir un respect réciproque !
y a t'-il des guides papiers sur la Guinée ?
j'ai lu un bouquin sur ce pays qui m'avais bien plu , ( le roi de Kahel de Tierno Monémenbo) , les descriptions des paysages donnaient une impression de nature verdoyante.
merci pour m'avoir donner cette idée de voyage .
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Il y a un guide qui a bonne réputation " la Guinée" chez Les Editions du Jaguar.
Je vais le voir à l'arrivée d'un ami qui vient dimanche.
Il y a aussi le guide petit futé , mais pas futé du tout sur les prix et les adresses qui changent si vite.
mais je crois que le Jaguar est bien documenté sur le tourisme.
Et la carte est celle de l'IGN. Elle suffit bien !!
30° en cet instant ici à Conakry !!
merci pour ces infos , si on se décide pour 1 voyage en Guinée , je ne manquerais pas de te contacter !
ici 7° en soirée , et la neige qui est retombé sur les sommets alentours ...brrrr
bonne nuit
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
bonsoir , tout a fait raison , de mon coté je ne me lasse pas de lire mais d'écrire oui puisque a chaque fois ou presque on se fait rabrouer ou c'est stérile !!!il y a des gens ici qui connaissent tellement tout et qui sont persuadés d'être les meilleurs que je me demande comment ceux qui viennent ici pour glaner des infos arrivent a trouver l'envie de partir ... ça ne m'empêche pas de vivre mais je trouve cela dommage mais bon ... c'est comme ça . n'empêche que je pars pour la guinée sous peu et que ce post m'a donné des adresses ( visa etc ) des infos sérieuses et c'est cela qui est primordial sur ce forum . donc merci a tous ! jef
si vous pensez que l'aventure est dangereuse ... essayez la routine ! elle est mortelle . P. Coelho
Bonjour,
je viens d'arriver sur Conakry pour le travail. Et je trouverai cela domage de ne pas en profiter pour vister le pays
donc si un week end vous bougez pensé a moi :-)
Salut,
Je serai sur Conakry vers le 3 Mars pour le boulot (une dizaine de jours). Seras tu toujours dans le coin?
Quel plaisir de voir une discussion qui reparle de la Guinée et de ses richesses ! Allez en Guinée et surtout n'oubliez pas le Fouta. Après plus de 10 ans sans avoir eu l'occasion 'y mettre les pieds, j'espère bien repartir en 2012 pour suivre à nouveau les circuits de trek que nous avions élaboré avant 2000.
Pour rebondir sur les effets négatifs des dons, plutôt que faire des dons contreproductifs, préférez l'échange, de plus faites appel aux locaux pour vous accompagner notamment au fouta il y a des guides, achetez des produits locaux tout en négociant "ca fait partie du jeu", quand vous le pouvez faites travailler des locaux. Le tourisme peut etre une source de revenu pour les locaux et alors plus besoin de don !?! Le don détruit tout, il ne construit rien !
bonjour
bien d'accord avec toi !
en effet belle idée de voyage , merci à Goussard de cette belle initiative .
ce pays n'était pas une idée de voyage pour moi et pourtant je suis une fan d'Afrique .
la preuve je suis en pleine préparation de soirée (samedi soir) Africaine , je prépare le bissap !😏
bon weekend à tous
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
OUI Foutadecouv!!! Enfin, faudrait-il dire...
Que de messages demandant une petite place, voire une grande, dans un coffre pour acheminer qui vêtements, qui fournitures scolaires, sans oublier matériel informatique et jusqu'au médicaments...lesquels se retrouvent en grande partie sur les marchés et déséquilibre de fait la production donc l'économie locale.
Donner un coup de main en achetant donc en consommant localement sera toujours plus efficace que de déverser nos surplus pour ne pas dire nos poubelles dans tous ces pays.
Par contre revenez avec valises et coffres pleins et un coeur gros comme ça!!! C'est contagieux et les objets ramenés feront surement très plaisir en cadeau à des amis ou dans une vente "vide-grenier". Plus la peine de se torturer les méninges et souffrir dans les magasins à Noël!!!
I'm looking for a fishing camp in Casamance, south of the Casamance River, between Djembering and Cap Skirring—not too isolated.
Any info on Villa Terranga? I’ve sent several messages but haven’t gotten a response.
Other fishing camps?
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.