Visiting Sumba in Indonesia

Hi there,

I’ve been to Sumba twice, both times by plane from Denpasar (Bali) with Merpati, which has a monopoly on the route. Flight time: 1 hour 10 minutes, and the price: around 70 € one way (price as of April 2009).

I don’t know about flights from Flores, but there is indeed a ferry that connects the two islands. I can look into it since I’m heading back in April.

As for accommodation (not very abundant, true, and not everywhere), it’s easy to find because Sumba isn’t yet popular with foreigners—and that’s a good thing. It’s one of its charms. If you want to travel in peace, it’s the best. In any case, the island is definitely worth it, especially if you’re even slightly interested in the people, their traditions, and their beliefs. It’s an island where the locals have managed to preserve, at least in part, their ancestral customs to this day.

I can give you tips via private message about the places I’ve tried and share the contact info of friends who aren’t official guides (I’m not sure there are any, since there’s no tourist office there and very few travel agencies) but who can take you around by motorbike. Great guys who’ll bend over backwards to make your trip easy.

If any of this interests you, I can share everything I’ve got.

Tétrodon 😏

😊Thanks for all this quick info. We’re also leaving in April for 5 weeks. Bali, Lombok, Flores, and Sumba are the places we’d like to visit. Like you, the ideal for us is to understand their way of life and get to know the locals. We’d love to have more tips. We’ve read that safety there isn’t always ideal, but it’s true that if you don’t respect their customs, misunderstandings can happen. We can share our email if that’s easier. Thanks, Sandrami

"I can give you tips in a private message"

Why not share the information on the forum?

It could help others who’d also like to go to Sumba (me, for instance).

I wanted to go last June, but the first boat, the KM Wilis, which I planned to take from Bima (Sumbawa) to Waingapu, was in dry dock. No luck again when I tried to take the KM Awu from Denpasar to Waingapu—it was docked too.

More info on Sumba from member lolodesiles (formerly citoyendumonde, if I understood correctly 🤪) in their post: 3000 km by scooter in Indonesia through Sumbawa, Komodo, Flores, and Sumba (photos and videos)

Thanks!

Selamat Jalan

Okay, I won’t go back over the safety stuff—I think you’ve read what I wrote...

Yeah, getting to Sumba by ferry is a nightmare—often broken down, and when it’s not, the sea is rough. So you’ve got to allow PLENTY OF TIME to have some wiggle room. Plus, flights are often canceled due to lack of passengers, and in April, that’s definitely the case since it’s off-season... if you can even call it a "season" in Sumba.

There’s a ferry from Ende and another from Aimere, in the south of Sumba. About one ferry a week, I don’t remember which day—anyway, it’s useless to know since it changes all the time...

Watch out—you’ll need to speak Bahasa, otherwise you won’t be able to communicate with anyone outside of hotel owners. Not many accommodations, and they’re often fully booked because of Indonesian officials who like to hold seminars there (at least when I was there), but you can always find something... though it’s not necessarily cheap (100,000 IDR minimum). The Lonely Planet is pretty thorough on this, but you’ve got to multiply the listed prices by 2 or 3. And the distances on their map too

Also, be careful—there’s malaria... I didn’t catch it, but my Indonesian friend (a fisherman who already lived in an infected area) did!!

I could only stay a week in Sumba (including 3 days nursing my sick friend 🙁), and I really regret not being able to do a full loop of the island, which is fascinating, especially in those small villages with such unique architecture where Catholics and Muslims live in perfect harmony.

Right now in Sumba, the annual Pasola festival is taking place http://www.lombokmarine.com/...-pasola-festival.htm

PS: Yep, Ragamuffin, I change (almost!) names as often as you change avatars 🙂 Selamat tidur

Hi 😏

My private message suggestion was meant for the friends I mentioned in my post, as I’m not sure the site’s rules allow me to "do what feels like advertising" on the public forum.

Otherwise, no problem—my info is for everyone, of course.

What are your questions about Sumba? What exactly are you looking for? In my previous post, I kept things pretty general. Tell me specifically, and I’ll do my best to answer—promise, cross my heart, spit!

One thing I forgot to mention: I recommend knowing some basic Bahasa for everyday situations, since English (even in hotels) isn’t widely spoken. A practical method like Assimil is perfect for that. Plus, being able to communicate in the local language, like anywhere, opens doors—and it’s even more true in Sumba.

Later!

tétrodon😉

Good evening!

How’s it going?

Don’t confuse "ads" with "information."

An "ad" is when you get paid for the details you share.

If, for Sumba, you’re sharing the name and contact info of someone who can help explore the region, that’s information—even if that person gets paid for their service.

For example, I shared this about Kalimantan in a post:

"... trip to Mencinai (museum) and Ekeng (long Dayak house) by motorbike with Ikin (he sells coconuts at the market entrance and speaks good English) 100,000 Rp for the very long round trip..."

As for Sumba, it won’t be part of my next trip (September–October) to Indonesia, where I’ll focus on Sumatra.

See you next time. Safe travels!

A few photos from Kalimantan

Ah, one thing nobody told you... Be careful, your eyes are bigger than your stomach—I think there’s one too many islands in your plans ;)

We’re also leaving in April for 5 weeks. Bali, Lombok, Flores, and Sumba are the places we want to visit.

good evening Ragamuffin

By the way, could you maybe help me translate the comment I got on this Sumba video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KY_gabs-_wQ

Even with the help of a few Indo enthusiasts like you and me 😏, I still don’t get it all. I think he’s saying his wife is from that place or something like that 🤪. I could ask him to translate it into English, but where’s the fun in that?

thanks !

Wow, you're giving me way more credit for my language skills than I deserve! I think I mentioned in another post that my knowledge of Bahasa Indonesia ends where the laughter begins, and from there, language becomes universal. But with each trip, I'm improving—though I'm still far from being able to hold a philosophical conversation or anything like that.

Tidak mengerti indonesia 😉

Better to ask Muhammad or Naps instead.

Selamat tidur

Oh, sorry! Well, they’ll probably wake up by the end of the week, since the post is about Indo ;-) Anyway, I might crack the mystery key before then since I already have some people working on it 🙂

Selamat tidur dan mimpi manis !

The pestanya was held in Kampung Tarung, which is my wife’s family village (Dapawole family)... but I don’t know what the celebration was for... all I know is there was a lot of meat to eat hahaha... haha...--

This festival was celebrated in the village of Tarung, which is actually my wife’s family village (Dapawole family), but I don’t know the reason or purpose behind it... what’s certain is we ate a lot of meat hahaha... ha ha (Ed. note: absolutely dying of laughter!!!)

That’s all, Lolo of the Islands, also known by some as "the Indonesia specialist"😎

Indonesia has so many "fadas"! Once you discover it, you really want to go back—and it’s so big and diverse that you could spend multiple trips there, or even... part of your life!

"Fada" is such a lovely term. It means the "fada" is someone who talks with fairies... that’s my interpretation, anyway—it might not be exact!

Since most Indonesians are animist, "fada" fits perfectly 😉😉 As for Sumba, I’m planning to go either during the summer holidays or in September/October...

So any recent tips you have would be much appreciated 😉

Thanks so much! 🙂 Now I’ll be able to reply to them...

Definitely not an expert—just a bit obsessed, yeah 😉

By the way, I really like your new avatar—it’s way less aggressive than the last one 😛

Good evening

"a little critter from the rivers of West Kalimantan, captured in July 2008!"

Oops! I’m glad I went to the Sungai Mahakam in East Kalimantan instead, where I assume there aren’t any lizards like that 😉

Reassure me, otherwise I’ll have nightmares in hindsight

I was planning to use the photo below as my avatar, but after seeing yours, I’d look pretty lame 😎

Sampai jumpa Selamat jalan

Oh yeah, the river you're talking about is home to saltwater crocodiles... frequent attacks... one of them was even featured in a NEW LOOK report back in the '90s... As for the Pontianak area, this capture follows about ten attacks (some fatal) in just a few months, but this wasn't the right one. 🤪

Here, a few photos of other specimens caught between June and August near Pontianak—except the last one, which was caught in Pemangkat by fishermen... for the record, I’d swum there just a week earlier! 😱

To wrap up, here’s a little photo report on the capture of a Saltie in East Kalimantan: http://www.pbase.com/archiaston/crocodile. This one is suspected of killing a child. What struck me while looking at these photos was the extreme poverty of the people who really have no choice but to keep using the river every day despite the presence of such monsters....

... "this one is suspected of having killed a kid" ...

Who kills the other more often?

Humans or crocodiles? 😕

What are you getting at? The man, of course! ...

Like in the "match" between man and tiger 😕

But we’re getting off-topic from Sumba, which was mentioned yesterday at 9:00 PM (TV5Monde - *Le Point*, a Quebec magazine) in a report about Gilles Raymond, who helps the people of Flores become self-sufficient—especially when it comes to supplying water to villages (around Bajawa, if I heard correctly).

Thanks for this info—those photos confirm we should avoid setting foot in the water... I’ve often fantasized about an accident in the open sea, but never on a river 😕. Goes to show! Thanks for the info and for the photos 😉

John is a guide and really nice; you can reach him at the hotel ??? in Waingapu. For me, there are no safety issues in Sumba. You can also ask David, a guide in eastern Sumba—I really liked David.

It's sweet of you to say thanks, but if you read my posts carefully, you'll see that once again, my messages are off-topic... the crocs in question were caught in West Kalimantan, not Sumba... That said, you can find these critters in Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Papua... so it's true that adventurous backpackers should be careful and ask locals for advice before swimming just anywhere!

No! No! I did read that it was about Borneo! The Indonesian part ;) But it applies to the places you mentioned too! So I’m taking that into account— that’s what I meant in my post!! See you later

P.S. So, about Sumba... nope ;) I never swim in rivers or streams because I’m afraid of amoebas or other invisible critters that, once they get to know you, tend not to let go!!!

I’m supposed to go to Sumba with a friend... so I’ll ask you for more info later—is that OK?

Hey Eliade😏

I hope you don’t mind me jumping into the Sumba discussion. Since you’re planning to go, feel free to reach out—I’ve been there twice already, though I’m far from knowing it well.

As a starting point, I’ve mostly explored the western part but haven’t ventured much toward the east yet. I’m heading back in April, and once again, I’ll lace up my "wind soles." Who knows where they’ll take me this time?

Anyway, I can share the info and experiences from my all-too-brief travels.

See you around,

Tétrodon😇

I’ve never been to Sumba! Or Bali! Or Sulawesi! Or Flores! Or the Moluccas!... I’ve got some serious gaps!.. On the other hand, I’ve never caught anything from swimming in rivers, and yet, I can’t stop doing it!

hi,

I’m heading to Sumba this coming July and I’d love any tips. Accommodation, contacts, you name it. After Sumba, if I manage to tear myself away, I’d like to head toward Ende on Flores. Thanks for opening your treasure trove for me! 🙂

hi! I’m planning a trip to Sumba, starting from Bali and then heading to Flores as a next stop. My questions: 1. To get from Bali to Sumba, what’s the best route—by plane and/or ferry? 2. To go from Sumba to Flores, what’s the best route?

Or is it better to do the reverse: Denpasar-Flores, then Flores-Sumba?

How much time do you recommend spending on Sumba? I’ve heard there aren’t many guests—is that true? Where can I find info on this—addresses, prices, etc.? And how do you get around if you don’t have a "wind demon" or "mud boots"?!

I’m planning this for either July or August. Thanks, and see you around!

Hi there,

Regarding the order between the islands, I can't answer that since I haven't been to Flores yet. With limited time, I've always flown from Denpasar to Sumba (about 1 hour 10 minutes with Merpati, the round-trip price is roughly 70 €).

It's true that in Sumba, there aren't tons of guesthouses since tourism here is still in its early stages, but that's part of the island's charm. To find addresses, I recommend the Lonely Planet guide if you understand English—it has a few pages on Sumba that are pretty interesting. Otherwise, there's another book whose name I'll give you when I return to France since I'm currently traveling around Sumba right now. This one is written in French.

Ten days in Sumba will already give you a good introduction. Of course, more time is always better, as everywhere. How much time do you have?

When I get back, I can give you very precise info since I'm gathering details right now and I'm not yet overwhelmed!

See you soon!

Tetrodon

a 10/15-day trip... then we plan to head to Flores and Ende before returning home!! How far in advance should I arrive in Bali to book the Merpati flight from Denpasar to Sumba? I’ll be coming straight from Kuala Lumpur to Denpasar after a stay in either Myanmar, Cambodia, or both—I’ve planned three months of traveling! Thanks for the friendly tips... See you later!

hi,

I’ve never bought my ticket on-site but always from France through the Travelindo agency (no issues so far—they’re even reliable, responsive, and professional, in short). > You can check their site: www.travelindo.com.

It’s wiser this way because the Denpasar-Sumba route isn’t daily.

Do you need my local contacts? They’re lovely people who’ll take great care of you—just mention my name, no problem. The one in West Sumba (Waikabubak) might even host you if you don’t mind roughing it (no electricity, outdoor toilets and washing).

tetrodon😏

Thanks 😉 I’ll check the site for the Denpasar-Sumba ticket, then I’ll get back in touch...

Hi Tetrodon,

If possible, I’d love to get some of your tips. I’ll be in Sumba in July ’09. I’m planning to fly from Denpasar to Waingapu and then from Waingapu to Maumere some time after we arrive (how long depends on the situation there, transport options, etc.). We’re more interested in human connections than staying in hotels the whole time. Thanks!

I'm heading to Indonesia for 4 weeks, leaving on July 8th. I'd like to visit Sumba. Can you recommend other islands that are just as culturally rich but less touristy? What should I see in 4 weeks? Bali, Lombok, Flores, Sumba? Is it too short to also visit the Celebes Islands?

I think you have some places to stay in Sumba. I'd love to hear them! 🙂 Thanks in advance. Clarisse

Hi Tetrodon, did you end up going from Flores to Sumba in April 2009 after all? I’m getting lost in the 30-odd different messages... and I can’t find a follow-up to your post. I’m worried: Lollodesiles had quite a few issues with the boats, and I’ve read that the planes are often unreliable—delays, cancellations due to lack of passengers, etc. I’m planning Labuanbajo/Waikelo in mid-June (so not peak season yet) by a boat that, according to LP, does the loop twice a week via Waikelo and ends up in Sape. Have you tried this route, or do you have more precise info on the subject?

For flights, I’ve been trying for days to get info from the Merpati website with no luck—I keep going in circles, and the "contact us" link just says "under construction"!!! Help, please!

To take advantage of your kindness and experience, if you have any more recent info on the prices of guesthouses or hotels in Flores and Sumba, or any tips on ikats, I’d love to hear them! I’m starting to worry—I’ve only planned 3 weeks for Flores and Sumba, and the connections seem to take a lot of time and energy... and I’m leaving in 3 weeks!

Hi there,

No, I haven’t tried the ferry connection between Flores and Sumba. Actually, I didn’t make it to Flores and spent a lot of time on Sumba instead.

I can only share prices for guesthouses on Sumba, which aren’t very numerous. You’ll need to pick a strategic base and then explore from there for the day.

In the eastern part, the main town is Waingapu (where there’s an airport). The only place I know there is Sandle Wood Hotel. The most budget-friendly rooms (no mandi inside—you have to use the one in the hallway) cost 75,000 rupiahs, about 6 €, while rooms with a private mandi are 100,000 rupiahs. The staff is friendly, and the place is clean.

From Waingapu, you can head to the coast (by motorbike or local bus) to Kallalah Beach. There’s an Australian-run accommodation there. It’s a great spot to unwind, but the price might be a dealbreaker: full board is 300,000 rupiahs per person, around 25 €, which could be steep for tight budgets. From what I’ve heard (though I haven’t been yet), Tarimbang Beach in the central part of the island is more affordable. It’s reachable from Waingapu by truck, but the road is rough, and the trip takes 5-6 hours.

In the western part, the main town is Waikabubak. I’ve tried two hotels there: Aloha Hotel and Menandang Hotel. I prefer the latter—it’s more welcoming with an inner garden. From memory, both cost the same, around 120,000 rupiahs per person. Given the limited hotel options, Sumba is a bit pricier than other places, and there’s not much range in prices.

For the western coast, the only spot I know is Pantai Rua, where I stayed in a beach hut that wasn’t finished two years ago. Full board was about 100,000 rupiahs, if I recall correctly. There are also luxury resorts like Nihiwatu, where wealthy travelers stay. Given the sky-high prices, I didn’t even consider it.

Here’s a quick rundown of practical info. If you’d like more details, feel free to reach out again. Anyway, Sumba deserves at least two weeks to explore. It’s an island that’s stayed very off-the-beaten-path, which makes it incredibly authentic. The culture is fascinating, there’s a national park worth visiting, and the famous *pasola* (equestrian tournaments) only happen in February and March. I saw the one in Lemboya last February—it’s truly unique! I don’t think you’ll find anything like it anywhere else in the world in the 21st century.

Tetrodon😏

Hey! You mentioned a ferry from Denpasar to Sumba in one of your posts—do you have any more info on that route????? I'm interested in this option since I'll be arriving in Bali soon, then Lombok and Sumba if I can find an affordable way to get there. Thanks!

It's the AWU

Check the schedule on the Pelni website.

The next one should be leaving on Friday, February 24th at 1:00 AM and arriving in Waingapu on Saturday, February 25th at 6:00 PM.

Double-check and triple-check!

okay, thanks for the link! I’ll check it out more closely. You said the next one leaves on the 24th at 1 AM (lol, I land in Bali on the 24th around 11:30 PM!!! Too late!!!! Anyway, I’ll look at the schedules and see what I end up doing... bye, terima kasih

Hi! Another quick question—do you have any info on the conditions in economy class for this route? I’m traveling with my wife and our 7-month-old baby... and I think the class above is too expensive. Are the conditions much better in that class, by the way? Private cabin or not? Thanks!

Book a first-class cabin with two beds. The pleasure of tranquility is worth the price.

I only lasted 10 minutes in economy class 😕—after that, I got it and always traveled in a cabin alone.

Would you ever think of sharing your hotel room with strangers?

First class. Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of economy class.

Okay, thanks! We’ll see once we get to Bali. We’ll only have 30 days, and the crossing days that might interest us—the only ones, actually!!—and if they leave on the right day and at the right time!!—would be:

Departure: March 8, arrival in Sumba on the 10th

Return: Departure on the 15th, arrival in Bali on the 17th

That’d only be 5 days in Sumba, which seems too short to me, unless we fly back a bit later if possible??????? I’m not sure, actually, because I wanted to spend 15 days in Lombok and about ten in Sumba, but the ferry schedule doesn’t really line up, so we’ll see once we’re there...

And what do you mean by sharing my hotel room????

For Sumba, try via Bima (Sumbawa).

There are two boats that go from Bima to Waingapu.

You’ll need to juggle and complete this triangle: Denpasar (Bali) – Waingapu (Sumba) – Bima (Sumbawa, then Lombok) – Denpasar (Bali).

And what do you mean by sharing my hotel room????

On trains and boats, they try to force us to share our sleeping space with others, but not in hotels. When will we get singles on trains and boats? On the Pelni, I always insisted—successfully—on having a cabin to myself.

yeah, not a bad idea—I hadn’t thought of that!!! We’ll need to check the schedules, but it all adds up to be pretty expensive🤪 Or I was thinking Lombok, then doing a big loop around Sumbawa—it doesn’t seem to be visited much, apparently..... Oh well, no big deal, we’ll figure it out when we get there, depending on the ferry days and schedules (D-5!!!)

And by the way, Padangbai-Lembar—does that crossing still exist every day???

Thanks for the info🙂 (I don’t have a Lonely Planet for the month, so VF is filling in!!!!!)

padangbai-lembar

Yes, there should still be several crossings per day.

It’s just that it seems to me that Pelni boats no longer stop in Lembar!

okay, thanks, destiny will choose our path....!!!!!!

In Indonesia, it’s not you who takes the boat/bus/bemo/transport—it’s the boat/bus/bemo/transport that takes you 🤪

Hi, I just came across this post, which is a bit old... I'm heading to Sumba in a few days. If you still have contacts for people who could guide me there for a few days, I'd be interested. I'll be around the west of the island, landing in Tambolaka. Thanks in advance, Julien

Hi, I just came across this post, which is a bit old... I'm heading to Sumba in a few days. If you still have contacts of people who could guide me there for a few days, I'd be interested. I'll be around the west of the island, landing in Tambolaka. Thanks in advance, Julien

Hello,

I haven’t heard from the person I knew in the western part of Sumba. However, if you go to the eastern part, particularly in Waingapu, you’ll likely run into two of my acquaintances who tour the town’s hotels selling jewelry and other typical items. Their names are Arais and Cewi, but they speak very little English. Some basic Indonesian is essential to communicate with them. You can mention my name to them. They can help with small favors. They’re not guides, but they can take you around Waingapu on their motorbikes.

Have a great trip under Sumba’s vibrant skies,

Tetrodon

Hi everyone, I'm still in Sumba—I came back for the Pasola... I was here in January too. As for guides, I visited a few traditional villages with someone who works at the hotel where I was staying... I stayed in Waikabubak. That said, I found it pretty expensive—250,000 IDR for the day, or 275,000 if you want to rent a scooter for yourself—even though I saw some amazing things. Plus, this guy’s a real businessman, he had dollar signs in his eyes... I had to pay for everything for him every time, which wasn’t a huge amount, but just on principle, he could’ve told me beforehand. I can still give you his contact details, but the easiest thing is to rent a scooter—between 50,000 and 75,000 IDR—and head to the villages on your own. That said, it’s not easy if you don’t speak Bahasa... Otherwise, just by chatting with people around you, you’ll easily find someone to show you around! But all in all, Sumba is awesome!!! julien