Original post
Bonjour,
j 'aimerais voyager au yémen en octobre 2006, au moment de la période du Ramadan.Est-ce que c'est possible.
Je voyage avec une amie en voyage non organisé.
Merci de me répondre.
Nicole.
Le Yémen pendant le Ramadan
by Grecietnicol
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Bonjour,
Nous avions fait notre voyage (voir le carnet dans le lien ci dessous) en pleine période Ramadan en en gardant un très bon souvenir inoubliable. Nous étions en circuit organisé combinant balades et bivouacs sur 2 jours et transports en 4x4 d'un site à un autre.
http://philippe.marsault.free.fr
Nous avions fait notre voyage (voir le carnet dans le lien ci dessous) en pleine période Ramadan en en gardant un très bon souvenir inoubliable. Nous étions en circuit organisé combinant balades et bivouacs sur 2 jours et transports en 4x4 d'un site à un autre.
http://philippe.marsault.free.fr
Merci de m'avoir répondu aussi vite.
Mais je vais voyager avec une amie, sans organisation touristique.N'est ce pas difficile à 2 filles.Dans la journée, est ce qu'il y a quand même une activité maintenu ou tout le pays est au ralenti?Y a t-il une activité nocturne plus importante, les souks sont-ils ouverts et autres magazins?
Merci beaucoup de me répondre.
Nicole
Bonjour,
Je ne comprends pas bien vos centres d'intérêt ... le Yemen, c'est la montagne, les villages en nid d'aigle et quelques villes remarquables. Il faut bien un véhicule pour s'en approcher (donc un chauffeur via une agence) et un guide pour vous ouvrir les bonnes portes.... En dehors de Saana en période de Ramadan (travail des artisans la nuit !), il n'y a pas de vie nocturne ... de souks etc...
Vous avez certainement vu le livre de Pascal et Maria Maréchaux ?
Je ne comprends pas bien vos centres d'intérêt ... le Yemen, c'est la montagne, les villages en nid d'aigle et quelques villes remarquables. Il faut bien un véhicule pour s'en approcher (donc un chauffeur via une agence) et un guide pour vous ouvrir les bonnes portes.... En dehors de Saana en période de Ramadan (travail des artisans la nuit !), il n'y a pas de vie nocturne ... de souks etc...
Vous avez certainement vu le livre de Pascal et Maria Maréchaux ?
Je ne pense pas que ce soit plus difficile à deux filles, mais par contre vous trouverez facilement des taxis collectifs ou individuels pour vous transporter un peu partout sans problèmes ...... et concernant la vie nocturne, elle n'existe pas au sens occidental du terme, tout au plus quelques marchés de nuit de ci de là ..... mais il y a suffisamment à faire dans la journée pour être bien fatigué le soir et se coucher pas trop tard ...... 😉
2 filles et en voyage non organisé ... j'imagine alors que vous allez prendre contact avec une agence locale dans ce cas, parce que j'imagine mal 2 nanas faire une ballade dans les montagnes toutes seules :
1. c'est pas balisé
2. si vous ne parlez pas arabe, vous risquez d'avoir des petits soucis pour communiquer
3. dommage pour vous parce que la autochtones sont géniaux, mais il faut un guide pour vous ouvrir la communication avec eux
4. qui organise vos bivouacs?
A moins que vous ayez l'intention de juste faire une ballade dans Sanaa, dans ce cas en effet vous pouvez vous passer d'un guide (et encore, moi je trouve ça super de me ballader avec un guide local qui et là pour répondre à mes questions) et vous aurez tout plein de souks à visiter. C'est quand même bête de faire tant de kms sans aller voir comment ça se passe dans les beaux villages de montagnes. Ma foi, chacun voyage comme il le sent.
A moins que vous ayez l'intention de juste faire une ballade dans Sanaa, dans ce cas en effet vous pouvez vous passer d'un guide (et encore, moi je trouve ça super de me ballader avec un guide local qui et là pour répondre à mes questions) et vous aurez tout plein de souks à visiter. C'est quand même bête de faire tant de kms sans aller voir comment ça se passe dans les beaux villages de montagnes. Ma foi, chacun voyage comme il le sent.
Bonsoir
Alors le Yemen au Ramadan, je ne connais pas précisement, mais le Yemen et le Ramadan séparement, je connais mieux.
Le yemen. moi je pense que tu n'as pas besoin d'un voyage organisé avant de partir. Tu trouves facilement une agence locale à Sanaa, en demandant à l'hotel, ils se feront un plaisir de t'indiquer quelque chose, ils y trouvent leur compte. Généralement, un chauffeur de 4x4 d'agence connait au moins quelques mots d'anglais, et comme beaucoup de gens au Yemen, tu t'en sortiras sans parler arabe car les gens font tout pour se faire comprendre. Si il fallait parler arabe pour aller au Yemen, chinois pour la chine, turkmène pour le turkmenistan et lapon pour la laponie ... on ne ferait pas beaucoup de voyage. Bien sûr on passe certainement à côté de plein de chose ...
En tant que femme, si tu as une tenue ultra décente (mais pas de voile obligatoire), tout va bien, ils sont tellement croyants que, à part te regarder (mais sans méchanceté) ou te demander en mariage (une occidentale, ca ne demande pas de dot!), il n'y a pas grand chose.
Ce voyage se prépare, mais en fait, tout est vraiment plus simple sur place que ce qu'on imagine de loin... Même si tu vivras, à deux femmes, une expérience vraiment inoubliable. Par contre attention aux régions où tu vas, je crois que c'est d'actualité.
Le Ramadan. Bien sûr j'imagine que, comme dans les autres pays du MO que je connais, la vie s'y arrête un peu, mais les gens ont encore quelques activités. En plus, dans un pays tellement religieux, ce temps est vraiment important, et je pense que l'atmosphère doit y être très particulière.
Bon voyage ...
Alors le Yemen au Ramadan, je ne connais pas précisement, mais le Yemen et le Ramadan séparement, je connais mieux.
Le yemen. moi je pense que tu n'as pas besoin d'un voyage organisé avant de partir. Tu trouves facilement une agence locale à Sanaa, en demandant à l'hotel, ils se feront un plaisir de t'indiquer quelque chose, ils y trouvent leur compte. Généralement, un chauffeur de 4x4 d'agence connait au moins quelques mots d'anglais, et comme beaucoup de gens au Yemen, tu t'en sortiras sans parler arabe car les gens font tout pour se faire comprendre. Si il fallait parler arabe pour aller au Yemen, chinois pour la chine, turkmène pour le turkmenistan et lapon pour la laponie ... on ne ferait pas beaucoup de voyage. Bien sûr on passe certainement à côté de plein de chose ...
En tant que femme, si tu as une tenue ultra décente (mais pas de voile obligatoire), tout va bien, ils sont tellement croyants que, à part te regarder (mais sans méchanceté) ou te demander en mariage (une occidentale, ca ne demande pas de dot!), il n'y a pas grand chose.
Ce voyage se prépare, mais en fait, tout est vraiment plus simple sur place que ce qu'on imagine de loin... Même si tu vivras, à deux femmes, une expérience vraiment inoubliable. Par contre attention aux régions où tu vas, je crois que c'est d'actualité.
Le Ramadan. Bien sûr j'imagine que, comme dans les autres pays du MO que je connais, la vie s'y arrête un peu, mais les gens ont encore quelques activités. En plus, dans un pays tellement religieux, ce temps est vraiment important, et je pense que l'atmosphère doit y être très particulière.
Bon voyage ...
Merci beaucoup d'avoir répondu à mon message.
Pour le moment et avec grand regret j'ai annulé le voyage au yémen, pas à cause du Ramadan mais pour les événements qui viennent de se produire dans le pays.
Les 4 français enlevés, et puis les élections présidentielles.Il y a beaucoup d émeutes, et des morts.
J aimerais y aller au mois de février.
D 'aprés toi, si je vais dans les régions qui ne sont pas considérées à risque, penses tu que c'est ok?
Merci beaucoup.J'ai toujours envie d'y aller.
Nicole.
Voici un mail que j avais adresse a un internaute a mon retour du Yemen, pays que j ai adore. J espère que tu y trouveras des reponses, sinon ne pas hesiter a me demander des details. Quelques details pratiques
Je suis restee 3 semaines dans ce pays, de fin octobre a mi-novembre 2001. Je ne connais le climat qu a cette periode, et c etait le climat ideal, sauf a Sana a où il commence a faire frisquet debut novembre.
J'étais seule, mais mon - grand - âge devait inspirer le respect : 54ans!
Au debut, on etouffe un peu a Sana a (altitude), surtout si on fume. On s y habitue peu a peu ou on va voir ailleurs, plus bas.
Change : Ne pas hesiter a y aller avec des euros. Ne pas ecouter ceux qui disent qu on ne peut rien faire sans dollars. C est vrai dans le seul cas de location 4/4 ou voyage avec bedouins . Changer les euros en rials avant de chercher un hotel, cela evite de payer 3 ou 4 fois plus cher, comme c est le cas pour ceux qui paient en dollars.
Femme seule : Manches courtes a eviter, socquettes a prevoir + foulard (utile mais pas obligatoire).
Rien a craindre sur le plan securitaire, jamais personne ne s aviserait de toucher une femme surtout une occidentale !. C est d ailleurs ainsi que l on vous laisse porter vos bagages le plus souvent dans les bus .... C est une preuve de respect. Ne pas hesiter a demander de l aide malgre tout.
Parler anglais meme un peu est indispensable. Apprendre quelques mots d arabe fait plaisir.
Les français sont très aimes au Yemen : Grace a Zinedine Ziddan et aux positions politiques de la France en faveur des palestiniens.
« Le plus difficile dans ce voyage a ete : - L obsession des autorisations de continuer ; - Le fait d etre « la seule de son espece » dans un endroit, d’une part en tant qu europeenne, d autre part en tant que femme. J adore le suspense, mais parfois il prenait a la gorge.
Et ces ministères du tourisme qu aucun taxi ne connait ! En plus, une fois que tu as enfin trouve quelqu un qui t aide et va jusqu a t y conduire, personne n y parle autre chose qu arabe. Heureusement, je me suis trouvee un guide a chaque etape ! Sauf a Mukallah (j allais a Seyoun) : Le chef de la police locale a tenu a ce que je sois accompagnee dans le taxi collectif par un jeune militaire avec kalach ! En payant sa place et son repas, bien sûr, mais enfin relativisons, cela m est revenu en tout a 13 euros.
Resume, voila mon circuit :
- Vol avec Emirates, , service impeccable. Au retour, comme escale d une journee plus 1 nuit a Dubai, hotel luxe plus repas plus petit dej offerts. Confort et gentillesse. Plan de vol : Nice Dubai Dubai Sanaa
Je suis arrivee a Sanaa a 4h du matin. Un peu d'argent change a la « banque de l aeroport », car je m etais systematiquement refusee a aller au Yemen avec des dollars. Eh bien, finalement j y ai gagne, car non seulement j ai evite la double commission, mais quand on n a que des rials on paie tout moins cher ! Je n avais comme d habitude aucun hotel de reserve et j ai un peu panique car j en avais releve un dans lonely planet qui etait allume mais ferme. J ai marche, moi, mon sac a dos et mon sac a roulettes qui s est casse. Un hotel semi-luxe s est presente a moi. Ils voulaient 25 dollars. J ai commence a m enerver (j etais très fatiguee) « I want to sleep, tell me the name of an hotel for 1500 rials ». Bref on a negocie a 2000 rials. Quand je suis partie pour mon periple ils ont garde le sac a roulettes, et au retour j y suis restee une semaine, toujours au meme prix ! Luxe, calme et volupte Un gardien de l hotel m a aidee pour l autorisation et m a conduite au ministere qui ne voulait pas me delivrer de permis pour Aden. Bref, il a dit que je n avais qu a me debrouiller avec une autorisation ecrite sur papier en-tête de l hotel. Ce qu on a fait et je suis partie pour Aden en bus avec ce semblant d autorisation qui a marche au check-point !
J ai adore Aden. Me suis trouvee un « chevalier-servant », ravi de faire connaitre sa ville a une europeenne, et moi toute contente d avoir trouve un guide. Tres sympa, et en plus les yemenites aident de manière tout a fait desinteressee. Je suis restee 4 jours a Aden.
Ministère du tourisme tres sympa ; toujours le problème de langue, ils m ont gardee 3 heures pour essayer de discuter ; heureusement, j avais mon interprète de choc ! Maison Rimbaud fermee : cruelle deception. J ai pu visiter la soi-disant chambre de Rimbaud intacte. J ai du vraiment fermer les yeux pour y croire. Apres verification, Jacques Lang voulait la garder en l etat, mais ensuite est arrive Jacques Toubon qui a accepte que la maison devienne un hotel. Les adenites sont aussi furieux que moi ! Ai rencontre un espagnol, Miguel qui m a appris qu il y avait peut etre une possibilite de faire Seyoun Sanaa en bus.
- Aden Mukallah : Bus 3 jours a Mukallah. Ai rencontre 2 etudiants parlant parfaitement le français. Ils m ont fait visiter la ville a fond.
- Mukallah Seyoun : Comme dit plus haut avec militaire arme.
- Seyoun : Ai revu Miguel qui s etait perdu 2 jours plus tot a Shibam. Il avait erre une nuit et une demie journee avant qu une tribu ne le repère. Il faisait la une du journal national et etait devenu une star a Seyoun. Nous avons ete a la station de bus, et effectivement un bus gouvernemental faisait tous les jours le trajet Seyoun Sanaa pour 1900 rials (13 euros) Re Ministère du tourisme. Miguel partait le lendemain. Je suis reste 4 jours a Seyoun, adorable village, et ai rayonne autour en taxis collectifs : Shibam, Al Ghourfa, Tarim
- Sanaa le retour Ai peu rayonne, sinon Wadi dhar en taxi. J etais fatiguee (l altitude de Sana a m oppresse), et j avais des plans a resoudre concernant le qat (je m y etais un peu mise a Aden, j ai continue a Sana a ce qui rejouissait les yemenites, j etais un peu de leur clan !).
J ai sympathise avec un gardien de l hotel très verse dans le qat. Le soir de mon depart, il m a accompagnee dans une plantation où des hommes a mine patibulaire m ont deterre des racines que j ai soigneusement mis dans une serviette mouillee entouree d un sac plastique, le tout dans mon sac. J ai egalement achete une belle botte de la meilleure qualite pour la faire gouter aux amis au retour (toujours dans la fameuse serviette humide entouree d un plastique). Quelle peur a l aeroport parce que mes valises allaient a Nice et stationnaient un jour a Dubai, mais bon c est passe sans problème. Maintenant, du qat pousse dans l arriere-pays niçois ! Ma foi voila. Je pense que j ai voyage dans des conditions parfois pas très pratiques, mais que j ai toujours ete au coeur de la vie yemenite, ce qui etait mon but. Periple fabuleux.
Un internaute a dit recemment que dorenavant il etait interdit de circuler seul sans passer par une agence. Si c est vrai, pas besoin de se precipiter, sur place on trouve tout ce qu il faut comme agences (dont celle de nouvelles frontières où le chef d'agence parle un français parfait, je l ai rencontre pour avoir des infos).
Noelle
« Le plus difficile dans ce voyage a ete : - L obsession des autorisations de continuer ; - Le fait d etre « la seule de son espece » dans un endroit, d’une part en tant qu europeenne, d autre part en tant que femme. J adore le suspense, mais parfois il prenait a la gorge.
Et ces ministères du tourisme qu aucun taxi ne connait ! En plus, une fois que tu as enfin trouve quelqu un qui t aide et va jusqu a t y conduire, personne n y parle autre chose qu arabe. Heureusement, je me suis trouvee un guide a chaque etape ! Sauf a Mukallah (j allais a Seyoun) : Le chef de la police locale a tenu a ce que je sois accompagnee dans le taxi collectif par un jeune militaire avec kalach ! En payant sa place et son repas, bien sûr, mais enfin relativisons, cela m est revenu en tout a 13 euros.
Resume, voila mon circuit :
- Vol avec Emirates, , service impeccable. Au retour, comme escale d une journee plus 1 nuit a Dubai, hotel luxe plus repas plus petit dej offerts. Confort et gentillesse. Plan de vol : Nice Dubai Dubai Sanaa
Je suis arrivee a Sanaa a 4h du matin. Un peu d'argent change a la « banque de l aeroport », car je m etais systematiquement refusee a aller au Yemen avec des dollars. Eh bien, finalement j y ai gagne, car non seulement j ai evite la double commission, mais quand on n a que des rials on paie tout moins cher ! Je n avais comme d habitude aucun hotel de reserve et j ai un peu panique car j en avais releve un dans lonely planet qui etait allume mais ferme. J ai marche, moi, mon sac a dos et mon sac a roulettes qui s est casse. Un hotel semi-luxe s est presente a moi. Ils voulaient 25 dollars. J ai commence a m enerver (j etais très fatiguee) « I want to sleep, tell me the name of an hotel for 1500 rials ». Bref on a negocie a 2000 rials. Quand je suis partie pour mon periple ils ont garde le sac a roulettes, et au retour j y suis restee une semaine, toujours au meme prix ! Luxe, calme et volupte Un gardien de l hotel m a aidee pour l autorisation et m a conduite au ministere qui ne voulait pas me delivrer de permis pour Aden. Bref, il a dit que je n avais qu a me debrouiller avec une autorisation ecrite sur papier en-tête de l hotel. Ce qu on a fait et je suis partie pour Aden en bus avec ce semblant d autorisation qui a marche au check-point !
J ai adore Aden. Me suis trouvee un « chevalier-servant », ravi de faire connaitre sa ville a une europeenne, et moi toute contente d avoir trouve un guide. Tres sympa, et en plus les yemenites aident de manière tout a fait desinteressee. Je suis restee 4 jours a Aden.
Ministère du tourisme tres sympa ; toujours le problème de langue, ils m ont gardee 3 heures pour essayer de discuter ; heureusement, j avais mon interprète de choc ! Maison Rimbaud fermee : cruelle deception. J ai pu visiter la soi-disant chambre de Rimbaud intacte. J ai du vraiment fermer les yeux pour y croire. Apres verification, Jacques Lang voulait la garder en l etat, mais ensuite est arrive Jacques Toubon qui a accepte que la maison devienne un hotel. Les adenites sont aussi furieux que moi ! Ai rencontre un espagnol, Miguel qui m a appris qu il y avait peut etre une possibilite de faire Seyoun Sanaa en bus.
- Aden Mukallah : Bus 3 jours a Mukallah. Ai rencontre 2 etudiants parlant parfaitement le français. Ils m ont fait visiter la ville a fond.
- Mukallah Seyoun : Comme dit plus haut avec militaire arme.
- Seyoun : Ai revu Miguel qui s etait perdu 2 jours plus tot a Shibam. Il avait erre une nuit et une demie journee avant qu une tribu ne le repère. Il faisait la une du journal national et etait devenu une star a Seyoun. Nous avons ete a la station de bus, et effectivement un bus gouvernemental faisait tous les jours le trajet Seyoun Sanaa pour 1900 rials (13 euros) Re Ministère du tourisme. Miguel partait le lendemain. Je suis reste 4 jours a Seyoun, adorable village, et ai rayonne autour en taxis collectifs : Shibam, Al Ghourfa, Tarim
- Sanaa le retour Ai peu rayonne, sinon Wadi dhar en taxi. J etais fatiguee (l altitude de Sana a m oppresse), et j avais des plans a resoudre concernant le qat (je m y etais un peu mise a Aden, j ai continue a Sana a ce qui rejouissait les yemenites, j etais un peu de leur clan !).
J ai sympathise avec un gardien de l hotel très verse dans le qat. Le soir de mon depart, il m a accompagnee dans une plantation où des hommes a mine patibulaire m ont deterre des racines que j ai soigneusement mis dans une serviette mouillee entouree d un sac plastique, le tout dans mon sac. J ai egalement achete une belle botte de la meilleure qualite pour la faire gouter aux amis au retour (toujours dans la fameuse serviette humide entouree d un plastique). Quelle peur a l aeroport parce que mes valises allaient a Nice et stationnaient un jour a Dubai, mais bon c est passe sans problème. Maintenant, du qat pousse dans l arriere-pays niçois ! Ma foi voila. Je pense que j ai voyage dans des conditions parfois pas très pratiques, mais que j ai toujours ete au coeur de la vie yemenite, ce qui etait mon but. Periple fabuleux.
Un internaute a dit recemment que dorenavant il etait interdit de circuler seul sans passer par une agence. Si c est vrai, pas besoin de se precipiter, sur place on trouve tout ce qu il faut comme agences (dont celle de nouvelles frontières où le chef d'agence parle un français parfait, je l ai rencontre pour avoir des infos).
Noelle
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Thanks in advance for your replies!
Best regards, Vincent
Hi! If anyone has been to Georgia recently and could tell me if it's feasible to travel around the country using public transport. My itinerary would be Kutaisi (my arrival airport), Tbilisi, Mestia, Ushguli, Batumi, and back to Kutaisi (departure airport) in ten days. My flight arrives late at night, around 1 AM—would it be possible to take a taxi to get to the city center?
Any advice is welcome, and regarding the language, can you get by with English? Thanks in advance.
Any advice is welcome, and regarding the language, can you get by with English? Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone, I’m married to a Kurd from Iraq, and we’re heading to Kurdistan in November with our two-and-a-half-year-old son. Even though I’m really excited about this trip and happy to go, I’m a bit nervous because as a European woman, I feel like there’s nothing to do and I have this image of a dangerous country… To put my mind at ease, I’d love to chat with other Europeans who’ve been there. Thanks! !
Hi there
Does anyone know if it's allowed to use a drone (under 250 g) in Oman?
If so, is there any registration required for the device?
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Laurent
Hi there,
We’re traveling from 12/23/2025 to 1/9/2025 in Oman.
However, our flight lands in Dubai.
So I’m looking for a car rental company that allows crossing the border into the Sultanate of Oman.
Thanks for your recommendations!
I think I saw there’s also the option of vehicles with rooftop tents…
I think I saw there’s also the option of vehicles with rooftop tents…
Hello... nothing new for several
years now...
Can you go there independently from the rest of the country? Any recent experiences, either in Kurdistan or the rest of Iraq?
Thanks a lot
Hi, we’re traveling to Georgia soon and want to go to Azerbaijan. I’m having trouble finding info on crossing the border.
Is it possible to do it by car or train? Are the land borders between the two countries open? Or do we have to fly?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
Since I had trouble finding up-to-date info, here’s an update on some key points for Jordan/Egypt ferries as of August 2025.
Right now, AB Maritime is the only company still operating ferries. Other companies sometimes mentioned (Jordan Sinaï Hotel and Tour, Sinaï Ferry, etc.) have stopped running (no response by phone or email, and confirmed on-site).
On the Jordanian side, the fast ferry doesn’t leave from the port of Aqaba but from Tala Bay (20 km further south). There’s supposedly a slow ferry that departs in the evening from Aqaba port (according to a taxi driver), but I couldn’t find any info about it.
Currently, there’s one ferry per day in each direction for Aqaba/Taba and another for Aqaba/Nuweiba. But the schedules aren’t great for backpackers—and they’re not the same every day.
On the Jordanian side at Tala Bay, you access the port by walking through a large resort, go through border control before boarding the ferry (+ luggage check). You have to pay the exit tax of 10 JOD (12 €) to "someone sitting on a bench in front"!!! It’s true—you need to ask who to pay, or customs won’t let you through without the magic coupon. Oddly, I arrived early and managed to take a different ferry than the one I’d booked online by insisting (it wasn’t open for online reservations). I bought the ticket on the AB Maritime website. Confirmation by email was brief. Then you have to find another person outside the port who has the passenger list and will give you the actual ticket. (What a joy this organization is!) Luckily, everyone’s really friendly with tourists.
On the Egyptian side, arrival in Taba isn’t in Taba itself but at Taba Heights (20 km further south), in a hotel zone. Immigration can be more or less quick depending on your place in the queue at the single office... (free Sinai visa or paid Egypt visa). And outside... nothing. Nothing: no exchange bureau, no ATM, no drink or SIM vendor... A nightmare. No bus station. One or two taxis at prohibitive prices. Personally, I walked about fifteen minutes to the Strand Hotel to find someone who could actually help me (ATM out of service in that big resort). From there, two bus companies currently operate: Webus in small vans but you have to book at least 2 days in advance (frequent, fast, reasonable prices) or GoBus with large buses (only one per day, even cheaper). They head south to Nuweiba, Sharm El Sheikh, etc. A taxi from Taba to Sharm was quoted at 120 USD at the port exit!
For me, the ferry and GoBus schedules didn’t align at all. If I’d known about Webus earlier, I could’ve saved 6 hours of waiting...
On another note, a Taiwanese traveler I met also mentioned that the Hurghada-Sharm El Sheikh ferry is no longer running.
Basically, these border crossings and ferries are more suited to organized tours than backpackers, but it’s still doable.
Since I had trouble finding up-to-date info, here’s an update on some key points for Jordan/Egypt ferries as of August 2025.
Right now, AB Maritime is the only company still operating ferries. Other companies sometimes mentioned (Jordan Sinaï Hotel and Tour, Sinaï Ferry, etc.) have stopped running (no response by phone or email, and confirmed on-site).
On the Jordanian side, the fast ferry doesn’t leave from the port of Aqaba but from Tala Bay (20 km further south). There’s supposedly a slow ferry that departs in the evening from Aqaba port (according to a taxi driver), but I couldn’t find any info about it.
Currently, there’s one ferry per day in each direction for Aqaba/Taba and another for Aqaba/Nuweiba. But the schedules aren’t great for backpackers—and they’re not the same every day.
On the Jordanian side at Tala Bay, you access the port by walking through a large resort, go through border control before boarding the ferry (+ luggage check). You have to pay the exit tax of 10 JOD (12 €) to "someone sitting on a bench in front"!!! It’s true—you need to ask who to pay, or customs won’t let you through without the magic coupon. Oddly, I arrived early and managed to take a different ferry than the one I’d booked online by insisting (it wasn’t open for online reservations). I bought the ticket on the AB Maritime website. Confirmation by email was brief. Then you have to find another person outside the port who has the passenger list and will give you the actual ticket. (What a joy this organization is!) Luckily, everyone’s really friendly with tourists.
On the Egyptian side, arrival in Taba isn’t in Taba itself but at Taba Heights (20 km further south), in a hotel zone. Immigration can be more or less quick depending on your place in the queue at the single office... (free Sinai visa or paid Egypt visa). And outside... nothing. Nothing: no exchange bureau, no ATM, no drink or SIM vendor... A nightmare. No bus station. One or two taxis at prohibitive prices. Personally, I walked about fifteen minutes to the Strand Hotel to find someone who could actually help me (ATM out of service in that big resort). From there, two bus companies currently operate: Webus in small vans but you have to book at least 2 days in advance (frequent, fast, reasonable prices) or GoBus with large buses (only one per day, even cheaper). They head south to Nuweiba, Sharm El Sheikh, etc. A taxi from Taba to Sharm was quoted at 120 USD at the port exit!
For me, the ferry and GoBus schedules didn’t align at all. If I’d known about Webus earlier, I could’ve saved 6 hours of waiting...
On another note, a Taiwanese traveler I met also mentioned that the Hurghada-Sharm El Sheikh ferry is no longer running.
Basically, these border crossings and ferries are more suited to organized tours than backpackers, but it’s still doable.
Hello everyone,
We’re just back from a wonderful adventure exploring Wadi Rum.
We spent 3 days and 2 unforgettable nights there. Our guide, Mohamad, introduced us to the desert—its beauty, its mysteries—with rare skill, kindness, and generosity. We hiked through breathtakingly beautiful places, slept in a Bedouin tent and under the stars, enjoyed delicious meals, and shared moments of incredible quality.
Mohamad honored us by sharing songs, poems, and stories, and introducing us to his family. His humor, life philosophy, and empathy will stay with us forever.
Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful experiences we’ve ever had.
Mohamad’s contact details can be shared via private message.
I’m also happy to provide any info about this unforgettable trip. Michèle
Mohamad’s contact details can be shared via private message.
I’m also happy to provide any info about this unforgettable trip. Michèle
Hi,
Has anyone visited Azerbaijan recently? I’m looking for info on this destination. The latest posts on this forum are from 2020.
Thanks
Hi,
is it easy to cross from Jordan into Egypt?
Thanks.
Hi,
Do you know where I can find a map for the Mestia/Ushguli trek? At the Mestia tourist office?
Thanks
So happy to be back with you all that I’m rushing to share my trip report!
We chose to stay exactly 14 days to avoid paying for a visa. As a result, we didn’t have time to explore the south—we’ll be back because Oman is a great destination in January. Temperatures were a perfect 25–27°C during the day. No rain for us, but it can happen.
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
Hi everyone!
I’m giving this a shot, hoping to get some answers that can help clear things up.
We’re planning a trip to Oman in February and want to rent a car.
The catch is we probably won’t have received our international driving permits in time.
After some research, we still can’t figure out if there are any rental companies that only require a French license...
or possibly a certified translation of it.
Given that the French license is recognized in Oman, we’re hoping for some advice.
Any tips would be hugely appreciated, and thanks in advance to those who can help!
Best regards,
Olyana
Hi there, 😄
my friend and I are leaving in 15 days for Kurdistan, by road, in our little converted van... The only thing we're sure of (well, the only thing we've actually thought about! The adventures will take care of the rest!) is that we're planning to take a month to get there, 15 days on site to visit my sister-in-law who's been living there as a teacher for a year! and 15 days to rush back, because my boyfriend has to go back to work on November 3rd!! After that, the itinerary isn't set yet—I've just bought a map of Europe... and still haven't found one of Kurdistan! or Iraq! I just finished work yesterday... and until now, this trip felt so far away... I didn't imagine much about it... I kept telling myself, "You'll see when you're done working, your brain will be more available!" Well, now my brain is in "gooo go go!" mode 😮 and it's going fast! I've got tons of questions popping up all at once!
- The itinerary... (we're thinking of lingering a bit in Greece on the way there... and taking a more direct route back). I don't think we've fully grasped what it's going to be like to cover at least 5,000 km in such a short time! Bibi's tinkering with the van (a Peugeot Expert that goes anywhere) and I'm the tour guide! - Camping in the van... where? Under what conditions? Areas to avoid? Places not to miss? - The borders... especially the Iraqi one! What are the formalities? Visa or no visa? - The political situation in the countries we'll cross... (with our entourage putting pressure on us—they're right, of course! How many times have we heard, "You're crazy! Oh, you're really going? We've been hearing about this for a year but didn't think it was so soon... and with everything going on right now, isn't it risky? Aren't you afraid of getting kidnapped?" 🤪 To be honest, we don't know much, we've been a bit out of the loop, working hard... and just craving adventure! But I admit, sometimes I get little waves of panic 😕 when I check official websites... then I go back to daydreaming! - Why not Couchsurfing? - Oh crap, the most annoying part... the paperwork, insurance, health stuff, blablabla... - Will the van hold up? 😐 - Should we prepare for the possibility of not making it all the way, and accept that not as a failure but as a different kind of adventure? Well, there you have it—a little peek into the chaos in my brain! 🤪/😎
So if any of this resonates with you... if you feel like sharing ideas, advice, or stories... we're all ears! Well, I am, and I'll pass it on to Bibi, the fearless warrior, wrench in hand, new tires at the ready, changing the oil and fine-tuning the beast! When I ask him what he expects, what he thinks, what his fears are (with me being the eternal scaredy-cat about wild camping in places I can't picture when we arrive at night—apparently a typical female fear, according to my surveys!—and the wonder of waking up to discover our surroundings... we made the right choice!), his desires... he just says, "Well, we'll start the car, go straight ahead, and see what happens. What do you think could go wrong?!" We complement each other well!
😛
- The itinerary... (we're thinking of lingering a bit in Greece on the way there... and taking a more direct route back). I don't think we've fully grasped what it's going to be like to cover at least 5,000 km in such a short time! Bibi's tinkering with the van (a Peugeot Expert that goes anywhere) and I'm the tour guide! - Camping in the van... where? Under what conditions? Areas to avoid? Places not to miss? - The borders... especially the Iraqi one! What are the formalities? Visa or no visa? - The political situation in the countries we'll cross... (with our entourage putting pressure on us—they're right, of course! How many times have we heard, "You're crazy! Oh, you're really going? We've been hearing about this for a year but didn't think it was so soon... and with everything going on right now, isn't it risky? Aren't you afraid of getting kidnapped?" 🤪 To be honest, we don't know much, we've been a bit out of the loop, working hard... and just craving adventure! But I admit, sometimes I get little waves of panic 😕 when I check official websites... then I go back to daydreaming! - Why not Couchsurfing? - Oh crap, the most annoying part... the paperwork, insurance, health stuff, blablabla... - Will the van hold up? 😐 - Should we prepare for the possibility of not making it all the way, and accept that not as a failure but as a different kind of adventure? Well, there you have it—a little peek into the chaos in my brain! 🤪/😎
So if any of this resonates with you... if you feel like sharing ideas, advice, or stories... we're all ears! Well, I am, and I'll pass it on to Bibi, the fearless warrior, wrench in hand, new tires at the ready, changing the oil and fine-tuning the beast! When I ask him what he expects, what he thinks, what his fears are (with me being the eternal scaredy-cat about wild camping in places I can't picture when we arrive at night—apparently a typical female fear, according to my surveys!—and the wonder of waking up to discover our surroundings... we made the right choice!), his desires... he just says, "Well, we'll start the car, go straight ahead, and see what happens. What do you think could go wrong?!" We complement each other well!
😛