I just got back from 3 weeks in Mexico and came across this heated discussion about water pollution. I’m one of the "fools" who swam in the cenotes..., and despite everything, it remains one of my best memories! They’re geological wonders!
There are over 10,000 cenotes in the Yucatán. And not just on the Riviera Maya—quite the opposite, actually. The ones I loved the most are near Valladolid. It’s important to know that cenotes aren’t municipal swimming pools, and very few people actually swim in them, especially the less "mediatized" ones. It’s also up to tourists to follow basic rules, like not wearing sunscreen, avoiding perfumes, etc...
I completely agree that the area around Tulum has become quite a bleak zone, where the thirst for money has taken over authenticity and respect for nature. Seeing those poor dolphins trapped in aquariums for the entertainment of some tourists, or all those all-inclusive hotels along the sandbank in Cancún... it’s disgusting, and that’s exactly what we should avoid and boycott!
On the other hand, there are Mexicans, long-time locals, who are just trying to get by by taking advantage of tourism to make a living.
That said, it’s important not to hesitate to venture further to discover places like the Sian Ka’an reserve, which is still preserved, or Bacalar Lagoon, which is still protected from mass tourism—for now, at least, though things are starting to change there too.
I went to Cancún but didn’t set foot in the luxury hotel zone. I was surprised by the Cancún I discovered—its small downtown and "zócalo" that comes alive in the evening, where Mexican families stroll and kids play.
That’s another side of Mexico worth remembering: the beauty of its landscapes, the simplicity of its people, the festive and warm atmosphere...
As travelers, we also have a responsibility to travel sustainably and think about the ecological impact we leave behind. But like in any country, I’ve also contributed to Mexico’s land pollution...
Thanks for your feedback, Joanna. For my part, I’ll also take the usual precautions.
We’ve still planned 4 days in Playa since my husband and daughter are into diving (and for my son and me, there’ll be more activities during that time) and 1 day in Tulum for the Sian Ka’an reserve.
I’ve been to Mexico countless times since 1985, from northern Mexico City all the way down to Panama. I used to love Mexico City and the colonial towns (my favorite is Oaxaca, but all the others are beautiful too!) and the landscapes, especially the mountains and the people.
In recent years, I’ve been flying into Cancun because I’ve developed a passion for the Mayan sites of Central America, even the smallest ones. Some I’ve visited multiple times, not to mention the new ones—there are still so many buried in the forests.
In 1985, only the beach in Cancun was developed. Since the late '80s and early '90s, I’ve witnessed the insane overdevelopment of the entire Caribbean coast between Cancun and Tulum. (A lot of Spanish investors, among others...)
Not to mention the corruption of the Mexican government (and the governor of Quintana Roo, of course), who couldn’t care less about the environment or the locals in favor of $$$$$$$$.
In 1985, Playa del Carmen was a small town (a bit bigger than the tiny village of Tulum) with a ferry dock to Cozumel, a few hotels, and some camping-cabins.
So, I always made a quick stop at the stunning beach in Tulum, south of the Mayan site. Back in '85, there was just one tiny camping-cabañas spot, the Santa Fe, and jaguars crossing the road (personally, I never got lucky enough to see one).
And between Tulum and Punta Allen, until 2012, the accommodations stayed modest in size (though the prices have become outrageous over the years🏴☠️!)
Anyway😊, my last swim in Tulum’s sea was in 2012, and the water was crystal clear—I even swallowed a mouthful.
After this long preamble, which probably only interests me😎, it’s clear that the pollution situation could only have gotten worse over the years given the massive scale of this "Riviera Maya" (poor Mayans!).
In short😊, what I wanted to say by jumping into this discussion:
if the sea in Tulum is this damaged, then Cancun and Playa del Carmen must be even worse...!!!😕😕
I went to Mexico a year and a half ago, and I absolutely loved it, personally. I didn’t just "do" Playa del Carmen or Tulum—those were actually the places I liked the least.
We visited Yucatán, Chiapas, Quintana Roo... and we would’ve loved to go much farther south and west, but we didn’t have enough time there.
So, we saw cenotes—I didn’t swim in them, though—but I found some that were really beautiful, especially Cenote Azul (though nearby Bacalar, I didn’t really love, but that was more because of the place we stayed ^^).
We found Tulum kind of meh after seeing incredible Maya sites in less touristy parts of Yucatán. On some sites, we were practically the only tourists—it was amazing.
Mexico can’t be reduced to Playa del Carmen, Cancún, or Mexico City, thankfully.
And pollution, whatever form it takes, right now, we’re dealing with it everywhere in the world. Unfortunately. Sometimes overthinking things isn’t worth it (and I’m one of those people who overthinks way too much—I’m trying to learn to let go...).
And in the case of the person who started this post, if I were in their shoes and already that disgusted before even going, I’d probably cancel, even if it meant losing the money, because it’s off to a bad start, and I think those would be ruined vacations. What a shame...
Hi Evelyne, I’m the one who started this thread. Two questions:
- You said, "We found Tulum pretty lame after seeing incredible Maya sites in the Yucatán that were way less touristy—on some, we were practically the only visitors, it was amazing." Which sites do you recommend within 150 km of Tulum?
- You wrote, "I didn’t really love Bacalar." For what reason? Just the accommodation?
Seeing all those all-inclusive hotels along the sandbar in Cancun... that just makes me sick, and that’s exactly what you should avoid and boycott!
Good luck...
All the Canadians I know go there, from 7 to 77 years old. To all-inclusives...
When you ask them where they’re going on vacation (they don’t *travel*, they go on vacation), they’ll tell you themselves: « at such-and-such hotel ». The location doesn’t matter, as long as there’s the sea, the sun, and... unlimited alcohol. And if you think I’m exaggerating, do a little research... 🤪
Actually, the thing is, the most beautiful sites—the least crowded ones too—are over 300 km from Tulum, really. 😐😐
Except for Chichen Itza, which is about 155 km from Tulum and absolutely stunning. I don’t know when you’re going, but we were in Mexico in April and May, and honestly, there weren’t crowds, but... it’s best to arrive as early as possible, first to avoid the intense heat (by 10–10:30 AM, it’s *reaaaally* hot) and especially to avoid the tour buses that start showing up mid-morning (I’m talking about the more famous sites like Chichen or Uxmal—no risk of crowds at the others). In April/May, it’s still manageable; they’re not too numerous, but I imagine July/August is a different story.
Otherwise, so many sites were breathtaking, all pretty far from the "Riviera Maya"—I remember Calakmul, Palenque, Misol Ha, Kohunlich, Uxmal... the gorgeous city of Campeche, and so many other places. It’s really a country to explore by taking the time to leave the overly touristy spots and venturing deeper into the country. That said, I can’t guarantee that hygiene standards inland are the same as back home—probably not, though sometimes even back home...
As for Bacalar, yeah, it was mostly the accommodation that disappointed us, and the town too, but we’d just come from much better places. Still, it’s worth seeing the Bacalar Lagoon, and nearby, Cenote Azul (the water is—or seems—so crystal clear, but no pressure to swim ^^). We completely missed visiting Akumal—the turtle beach—because, a bit exhausted from the trip, we just didn’t find it (the shame), but I hear it’s worth it.
Hi again,
Not far from Valladolid, there’s the Ek Balam site, which I’ll be visiting in April. It’s a "recent" discovery that was uncovered by a team mostly made up of French researchers.
The nearby cenote X'canche is stunning.
There’s also Cobá, which personally didn’t wow me that much, but I think that’s because it was the first site I visited, and I was expecting something more like what I’d seen or read about Chichén Itzá. Cobá might deserve a second visit after some time.
I loved Tulum, which is nothing like a religious city such as those you see in Chichén Itzá or Uxmal.
It’s an ancient port and trading city that was still inhabited when the Spanish invaded the peninsula. So, don’t expect it to be like its more famous, more "religious" counterparts.
It’s perched on a cliff above the Caribbean, the highest point (12-15m) along the coast.
The grays of the stones, the greens of the vegetation, and the gorgeous blues of the sea blend together to create a stunning mosaic. Visually speaking, with the layout of the buildings, it’s one of my favorite sites. But hey, there’s the sea, so that’s normal.
++
JP
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You should always be wary of 'travel sellers.'
Tulum has no historical interest; its only unique feature is that it's the only Mayan site by the sea... and ultimately not too far from Cancun's ghettos....
Same goes for Chichen Itza.
Meanwhile, Coba and especially Uxmal, Mérida, and the Ruta Puuc have so much to show and tell.... But that’s not what the average tourist is interested in: 'It’s too far from the hotel and the included meals....' 😛
Some guides (like *Le Routard*) never stop raving about the......7 shades of blue in the sea at Bacalar Lagoon.... 😎
Personally, I’ve never seen more than 3, even after several visits. Bacalar is on the way to Chetumal and Guatemala....
In short, there’s what the guides say and then there’s reality. And most importantly, Mexico isn’t (and thankfully!) just the Yucatan...
You're right, I forgot to mention Ek Balam—I actually visited it too and loved it. In fact, I think I loved all the Mayan sites except Tulum. Now, don’t yell scandal, let me explain: I found Tulum stunning as a site by the turquoise and blue sea—it’s truly a gorgeous place. However, and nothing will change my mind on this, unfortunately, I *hated* the hordes of American tourists who don’t hesitate to climb on the remains of monuments, step over ropes to pose next to a "old rock" against the azure backdrop. I also didn’t find the ruins as interesting as all the others I’ve seen, but that’s probably just personal taste. 😊
I completely agree with you. In fact, in the previous post, I was talking about hordes of tourists: they're the same ones who "do" Tulum and Chichen Itza (though I still prefer Chichen Itza by a long shot).
And yes, Mexico is really worth discovering off the beaten path—or rather, off the beaten beaches—even if sometimes the journey is tough. I remember the road to San Cristobal de las Casas—🏴☠️ I thought we'd never make it: the huge potholes, the turns, the length of the trip, but what a reward! We weren't done "suffering," though, because on the way back from San Cristobal, we got taxed by some very grumpy Zapatistas, and that happened three times in quick succession. Well, we did what everyone else did: we paid, just happy to be able to get out of there 😛
We weren't done "suffering" either because on our way back from San Cristobal, we were taxed by some very bad-tempered Zapatistas, and it happened three times in quick succession. Well, we did what everyone else did: we paid, just happy to be able to get out of there
Hi Evelyne,
They’re not necessarily Zapatistas, but rather locals protesting against certain foreign mining companies (notably the Canadian company CAMBIOR).
I got stopped too; they gave me a leaflet in Spanish explaining their demands. They need money to raise awareness through the media about their cause.... I must still have that leaflet somewhere where they explain........"we don’t want to go back 500 years"....
These people aren’t dangerous. They’re using the (only) means they have.... You’ve probably noticed that kind of spiked rake placed in front of the car.....?
The EZLN is still around but inactive.... They’ve opened a small museum in their honor in TONINÁ (dear to our friend Jean Luc 38!)....
Palenque and Agua Azul are worth a few little scares....😛
Memphre: Tulum, no historical interest... No comment.
Only three shades of blue? Get your eyes checked.
You hate hotels as much as I hate camper vans that I'd love to destroy with cannon fire, just like you'd love to see that hotel zone in Cancún disappear.
Do I flaunt that in every post of mine?
I can't stand reading your harsh, biased, and negative opinions about certain destinations, and then reading other rave reviews—just as subjective—about what you liked. Are you the only one in the world who gets to decide what others should like or not, or am I dreaming?
Come back down to earth, venerable hombre!
Crowds
There are tourists who visit sites. Yes, really. It’s crazy, right?
And just because they’re visited—sometimes a lot—should we ban these sites from our travel lists just because others don’t like them *because* they’re so popular?
Should we tell people not to go to the Louvre because you have to queue for hours? That seeing the Mona Lisa is nearly impossible?
Should we tell people they’re stupid for going to Giza because hundreds of thousands of others do too?
Am I going to skip visiting Chichén Itzá just because it’s crowded?
I went to Cobá and wasn’t exactly enchanted, but I don’t spend my time saying people shouldn’t go, that it’s terrible, etc. Share your feelings, give your reasons, but don’t assume you have the right to tell others what they should or shouldn’t do.
Why travel thousands of kilometers by plane if not to see what’s been fueling our dreams for years?
Anyway, just stay home, right? :)
Canada’s supposed to be nice. And there, you can complain all you want—the sound will be muffled by the snow.
Next cannonball—or is it opus? I’m not sure.
Come on, I still have faith—you’ve got time to learn tolerance. 😏
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Hello Namorada,
I understand,
but we can’t completely ignore the "others" who unfortunately visit either.
I visited Tulum in February 2016, and I don’t remember seeing what you described—tourists climbing monuments where access is prohibited.
That’s not to say I doubt what you’re saying, just clarifying.
I’m going back in April with two couples of friends for whom this will be their first Mayan site. As I mentioned before, I loved Tulum for its location, its simplicity, and the stunning views it offers over the Caribbean. It was breathtaking, and I respected all the rules while tuning out the distractions around me—focusing through my camera lens made it easier. That’s probably why I don’t remember those crowds climbing the monuments 🙂🙂
After Tulum, I discovered Cobá, which left me a bit underwhelmed. Granted, I had a knee injury and couldn’t climb to the top of the pyramid either :) . Access is still allowed for now. I made up for it later at Uxmal on the Templo Mayor in 2017—also open to visitors. Cobá was the first site we visited right after arriving, still in a European mindset, so maybe I didn’t appreciate it as much as I should have. That’s why I might go back later to confirm or reconsider my first impression.
Next, we’ll head to Ek Balam and then Chichén Itzá (which I already visited in 2016 after Cobá and Tulum), because it’s a major site, well-known in our collective imagination from books and such. My friends wouldn’t understand if we skipped it just because of crowds.
The upside is that the site is huge and spread out, so it can handle a lot of people without it feeling overwhelming.
Plus, we’re planning to arrive early.
Anyway, thanks for clarifying your feelings about Tulum—I didn’t quite get it before. And I’m relieved to hear it’s not the site itself but rather the behavior of some visitors on the day you were there :)
Best,
JP
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These people aren't dangerous. They're using the only means they have.... You probably noticed that kind of spiked rake placed in front of the car.....?
The EZLN is still alive but inactive.... they opened a small museum in their honor in TONINA (dear to our friend Jean Luc 38!)....
Palenque and Agua Azul are definitely worth a few scares....😛
Well, I wasn’t so sure they weren’t dangerous by the second "checkpoint"—not only didn’t we get the famous piece of paper, but they were drunk, rifles slung over their shoulders, and not exactly in the mood for a chat 🤪. By the third and final stop, we didn’t have enough money to give them what they were asking for (avoid^^) and we really thought we’d be stuck there for a few hours. And you’re probably right—it’s possible they weren’t Zapatistas after all. In the end, we’ll never know.
I saw that big spiked rake up close—no way anyone’s driving over that ^^
But you’re right, Palenque, Agua Azul, San Cristóbal—and even San Juan de Chamula with its strange and captivating "church." A tourist from the U.S. even had her camera smashed by a local indigenous man there.
Hi JP,
No, of course we can't distance ourselves from others—we're part of them too ^^ But I always try to schedule my trips during less touristy periods to avoid being completely swamped by those crowds I don’t really enjoy. In February, you definitely picked an even better time than I did, and that’s great. This place deserves to be seen in peace because its seaside location is truly exceptional, and the color contrasts are stunning. Since you’re going back in April, that’s roughly the same time (April-May) I was there. Let me know if you encountered more tourists or not—I hope not for your sake!
As for Chichen Itza, you’re right—the site is huge, so you barely notice if it’s crowded. When I went, we arrived early in the morning, and there weren’t many people around at that time. It was only toward the end of the visit that we saw a few buses, and we hardly crossed paths with anyone on the site.
At some of the lesser-known sites, we were lucky enough to have the place almost entirely to ourselves—pure bliss.
Wishing you a trip as extraordinary as mine was! 🙂
I went to the Yucatán 4 years ago and didn’t get that impression. In fact, they were really careful about the sea: we had to wear buoys to avoid damaging the coral, and use eco-friendly sunscreen to keep the sea clean.
I think it’s a shame to judge these countries when we probably pollute just as much, if not more, than they do.
In my neighborhood in Belgium, all the wastewater ends up in the river, and the Belgian government would rather pay a fine than do anything about it... The sides of the roads are basically dumping grounds, and that shocks me way more than these countries that have far fewer resources than we do.
I still haven’t been to the Yucatán, but after all the research following this post, I’ve come to the same conclusion as you. Two years ago, my son caught an ear infection in a branch of the Drôme river (where we’re from) because of pollution. He spent over a month on antibiotics because the bacteria was so resistant. So sometimes, we’ve got to look closer to home too...
Thanks Namorada!
No doubt I’ll come back with some feedback on these visits :)
In May at Uxmal, if we’d seen 30 people, tops 50 :), that was the max :)
We spent a fantastic morning there and really enjoyed the site’s tranquility, which makes me think that maybe, hundreds of years ago, a Mayan king also chose it for its peace and quiet and built his city there. Or maybe not :)
On the other hand, I try as much as possible to avoid the Spring Break period when visiting certain sites. It’ll be over by the time we go, so no worries.
Though I bet it’d be worth its weight in gold to watch those arrogant, conquering, drunk, and rowdy North Americans during that time.
No, actually, I’m joking :) :)
I do understand, though, why Europeans—and especially the French—are much better regarded there than North Americans and their ilk.
A lot less arrogance and entitlement toward the locals, no matter where they live.
See you soon!
Jp
Photo to give you an idea of the crowd during our 2016 visit—though many later gathered around the Castillo by the sea.
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In any case, I’ll be more careful about my destination next time. This time, unfortunately, I can’t cancel, but my vacation is already ruined. Not drinking tap water and not eating uncooked food—I was prepared for that. But keeping my mouth shut in the shower, not tasting the turquoise water while swimming because the hotel across the street dumps its wastewater there, not swimming in the cenotes because they’ve become sewage outflows, and even having second thoughts about the pool water because chemicals aren’t killed by chlorine—I wasn’t prepared for any of that. My girlfriend is already grossed out at the idea of dipping a toe in that broth.
Unfortunately, this is often how it goes! Where there’s tourism, there’s filth—it’s exactly the same in Asia, Brazil, Argentina, etc. That said, you shouldn’t spiral into paranoia about getting sick or ruining your vacation!
Many destinations are polluted
Hello,
The laws are cantonal, but you don’t see a big difference from one canton to another, except with the adoption of the trash bag tax, where each canton applied it at the time it deemed most appropriate.
Well, trip canceled. 1,700 € per person down the drain. The pollution, violence, and mafia-like vibe that’s starting to creep into the area turned my partner and me off. Travel blogs don’t mention what a little research reveals. Lesson learned, I guess. But I’m relieved, even if it cost me a pretty penny. I doubt many people write to hotels like I did to put a little pressure on them about respecting the environment. Too bad—it might make those real estate vultures think twice.
It’s always a shame to lose money, of course... but if it was going to stress you out and leave you feeling disgusted throughout the whole trip, I think you made the right call. You probably wouldn’t have been able to enjoy even the beautiful parts. In a way, you bought yourself some peace of mind.
You’re probably right about the hotels, pollution, violence, etc.—not many people think about all that before they go, and it’s a shame, really. But then again, we should start by cleaning up our own backyard. Things aren’t perfect here either; our countries aren’t exactly champions of ecology, cleanliness, or non-violence. You’ll have a hard time finding a destination that meets *all* your criteria, but I truly hope you do, and I’d love it if you came back to tell us about it. 🙂
I think it was the best thing to do, I actually told you so.
I really hope you manage to find a destination that satisfies your desires and matches your criteria.
Best,
JP
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Forking out 3,400 € for pollution fines and other issues—if you’ve got money to burn, go ahead and throw it away.
There’s more to Mexico than just beaches and cenotes.
Well, trip canceled. 1,700 € per person down the drain. The pollution, the violence, and the mafia-like vibe starting to creep into the area turned my partner and me off. Travel blogs don’t tell you what a little research reveals. It’ll be a lesson learned. But I’m relieved, even if it cost me a pretty penny. I doubt many people write to hotels like I did to put some pressure on them about respecting the environment. Too bad. It might make those real estate vultures think twice.
It’s too bad to lose that kind of money... you might’ve been surprised once you got there! The mafia-like vibe exists in a lot of countries—take Sicily, for example. It’s super dirty, yet Italy isn’t a developing country or anything. Still, I’m sure there are eco-tourism trips with hotels that respect the environment and all that.
It’s Lionel’s choice, not mine, but it’s the advice I’d still given him because he would’ve left with so many preconceptions—justified or not isn’t the point—that he would’ve had a terrible trip anyway.
I’m going back in April, May, June—I bought a house there. Personally, I love Mexico.
And no, I won’t be sending you any money. 🙂🙂🙂
++
JP
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I came across this post and I'm shocked and saddened by what you're writing!!! 😮 We went to Tulum for a little over a week in 2004 (in August because we were tied to school holidays) during a solo trip to the Yucatán and Chiapas. Back then, there were very few hotels. We stayed at the Los Lirios bungalows, 7 km south of the historical site, and further down there was a small campsite and beyond that the Sian Ka'an reserve. On the other side, I remember the Mayaland Hotel, a permanent building with thatched huts, and that was it. No trash or dump anywhere, the beach was deserted.
I don’t know what’s become of the village itself (I haven’t read the rest of this thread), but we used to buy delicious fruits there, especially cherimoyas, and really big juicy avocados. We feasted on coconuts picked from under the palm trees on the beach.
There was a crowd, though, to visit the site, and like everywhere else, we went at opening time.
There you go... all of this seems a world away from what it’s apparently become today...
On our way down to Chetumal (Belize border), we had a picnic at the Bacalar lagoon. There were very few people there (I imagine that’s changed too?). I remember a little Indigenous girl gave me a small green fruit that we saw on all the roads, kind of like a small green orange but with an inside that looks like lychee.
Then we headed back up to Chiapas via Escárcega, passing through the forest, which was completely deserted. Except for one military checkpoint, a quick search, and two questions. "Do you find Mexico peaceful?" "What do you think of the president?" 😉
In this context, I wonder what’s become of the little Oscar y Lalo lagoon, just above Tulum: a few kayaks, a deserted beach on the other side of the small bay enclosed by a coral reef...
You only have to see how much France has changed in 14 years to realize that the Yucatán must have evolved too (for better or worse—everyone can decide or argue that for themselves). Personally, I deeply regret those 14 years of "progress" back home...
So, are we better off here than there?
Are they wrong to want to cash in on tourism?
Are we really in a position to lecture them when we look at what we’ve done to our Mediterranean coastlines, for example?
Bottom line, we should clean up our own act first and sometimes climb down from our pedestals of arrogance.
Leaving for the Yucatán in 6 days. So excited!
++
JP
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In short, we should sweep in front of our own doors and sometimes come down from our pedestals of arrogance.
Uhhh... am I reading this wrong, or are you talking about me here? Is it forbidden to make an observation?
So if I understand you correctly, things have gotten worse here (or elsewhere)—though honestly, in 14 years, I haven’t noticed anything particular in France—but it’s true that when it comes to "the Mediterranean coastlines," I only know Aigues-Mortes and the Espiguette beach, which hasn’t changed a single dune since 2004. So we can’t miss a time when mass tourism hadn’t yet wreaked havoc in certain parts of the world?
No, no, don’t take it personally!
It’s also an observation on my part. We’re often quick to criticize the speck in our neighbor’s eye while missing the plank in our own. And this is a general thing, not aimed at you :)
The world moves forward with its excesses, its excesses, and its failures in many areas. And in my opinion, it’s not going to get better. Even in France, even if you don’t share my view on the state of the country (I’m a former military guy).
We probably don’t live in the same place, and that’s likely why I’m so eager to head back to the Yucatán for so many reasons.
But again, don’t feel personally targeted by my previous post.
++
JP
PS: The destruction of the Mediterranean coastlines started long before the 14-year period you associate with it. For me, those 14 years referred to the time between 2004–2018—your trip and your memories—and this year.
And in those 14 years, though, a lot has changed in France, I assure you :)
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It’s true—this pollution is a real problem. I didn’t notice it four years ago, but now it’s glaringly obvious, and it’s really time to take action...
When our host at the Puerto Morelos hotel told me, "You’ll see, the region has changed a lot in four years," I didn’t quite get what he meant. But now, seeing Akumal—a small beach that used to be family-friendly on weekends and almost deserted during the week—packed with tourists drinking alcohol in the middle of the day... When I see that you now need a guide just to watch the turtles swim, with the area strictly marked off to keep crowds from bothering them... When I see the trash (plastic caps and bottles) littering the turtle beach in Tulum, a supposedly protected site... It makes me sad. This little slice of paradise has become a victim. Tourism (and not the best kind) has exploded, and the locals haven’t been able to keep up.
The Yucatán is unfortunately in danger. This natural area, a refuge for so many species, is slowly being destroyed by mass tourism and careless people. Open-air dumps are popping up in the jungle... The sea is polluted...
Whether you’re planning a trip to the region or not, I’d recommend looking into this issue. Check out the site The Dark Side of Tulum. A group of motivated, environmentally conscious people is doing their best to make a change and raise awareness. They need help, though—it’s a huge task.
They also have a Facebook page: https://fr-fr.facebook.com/thedarksideoftulum/, and several YouTube videos that show the extent of the damage and how urgent it is to act.
PS: The destruction of Mediterranean coastlines began long before the 14-year period you associate with it.
There’s some exaggeration in that statement, and maybe it’s time to stop with the doom-and-gloom conformism. I lived in the Var for several years, went freediving there regularly, and the beaches along the French coastline are clean.
At some point, we need to stop swallowing all the media hype and their catchphrases.
The greenwashing there is intense, even more than elsewhere. And the hipsters lounge around on Instagram without a care about where their crap ends up...
There are no problems, only solutions.
When it comes to pollution, Mexico will eventually build sanitation systems; Mexico is a developing country, don’t forget that either.
You're right, I've been living here for 50 years, diving here every year, and the seabeds have become almost sterile from Saint-Raphaël to Toulon, Le Brusc. But I’ll defer to you if you lived there a few years ago. Have a good evening, freediving, and utopia! 👋
MSC Melody... Croisière à oublier rapidement.
Mexique - Incroyable découverte - Expat à court terme
Hi there, I’m traveling to Mexico this summer and I’m also encountering trash dumps in the jungle and pretty much everywhere on the roads in the Yucatán. We didn’t see this issue in the Oaxaca region.
Thanks for all the info in this thread!
hi, as I wrote back in 2019, emerging countries will be forced in the future to build waste treatment plants and garbage collection systems...
obviously, this doesn’t happen overnight.
There’s a video on YouTube showing piles of Bangladeshis cleaning a waterway filled with waste in a city in Bangladesh.
Besides, the biggest global market of tomorrow isn’t AI or high tech at all—the biggest market is sanitation, drinking water distribution, waste treatment, and so on.
Can you imagine if governments in emerging countries decided to take such steps to improve quality of life in cities?
And in this sector, France is very well-equipped with companies like Veolia, Derichebourg, and Suez
Hi! It was totally by chance that I stumbled upon VoyageForum (an ad online and a story lol), and I’ve been reading some really old posts from 2011 about Thai massage schools—discussions on how to get by, accommodation, prices, etc. It reminded me of my own experience: I kept things simple by staying with a local family during my entire trip. I only shared all the expenses with them, which, I’ll admit, was super cheap… and I often traveled with them, which naturally opened a lot of doors for me. To start, at the school in Salaya, my Thai friend immediately connected me with Teacher Phong (the school’s mentor and teacher of teachers, a former monk). I was supposed to join a group session with other foreigners, but for some reason I don’t know, I got two days of private lessons for free with this expert… incredible! And on top of that, he loved France! It was an amazing experience. I "discovered" massage by chance—the Thai family just told me: "Try it, you’ll see!" (I’d had a pretty intense massage in the capital before 😅… but the next day, I felt unbelievably great!))
Every morning, I’d take a taxi (chosen by the Thai family at prices that beat all the competition) to this school—I’ve forgotten the name of the little village now… right in the heart of the countryside. Then, in the evenings, I’d keep practicing massage on all the family members… and they’d teach me Thai at the same time!))
Since then, I’ve practiced a bit, with lots of positive feedback. Following Teacher Phong’s advice—he thought my pressure was deep, firm, and precise—he strongly encouraged me to take this seriously.
I love Thailand so much. It’s a whole different way of living… and it’s a real blessing, even if I couldn’t live there full-time. Anyway, that was an unforgettable memory, and sometimes the Thai family and I still say hi—from 2011, 2013… right up to today!
Hi everyone,
I’m Loulou, a French expat who’s been living in Southeast Asia for about fifteen years, currently in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. A passionate walker at heart, I’ve trekked in Nepal (Thorung La, Mardi Himal), India, Vietnam, and I’m still planning new hikes (Char Dham, Langtang, Annapurna).
I’ve just published my first travel journal, recounting three months of walking and encounters across India. A portion of the sales goes to an educational center I support in Kep, for children whose parents work in the salt marshes.
I’m also working on a second book about Nepal with a musician friend, focusing on the Mardi Himal trek—two independent perspectives on the same journey.
Happy to swap stories with you about the Himalayas, India, Southeast Asia, or just the urge to hit the road and walk far from home.
Safe travels,
Loulou
Who’d like to share their best and worst travel memories in a few lines?
For me, it’s watching the TAJ MAHAL at sunrise and getting chased by dogs at the top of a mountain pass in GREECE on the way back from ISTANBUL.
THANKS GUYS
"It seems to me that poverty would be less painful in the sun" wrote Aznavour...
Not sure...😕 Who can prove that people in hot countries are happier than others?
What do you think?
Is it better to live in Montpellier than in Lille?
Are the Pygmies happier than the Inuit?
Are Canadians less happy than the people of Louisiana?
Are there more French expats in hot countries?
And your travels? Do you choose your destinations based on the climate?
Do you rejoice when a bit of sunshine appears?
Hi everyone, just this once I’m not posting for a travel story, but to share a thought for Venezuela.
If you didn’t know—since it’s not making headlines—the country was hit by two 7.5-magnitude earthquakes last week. Over 2,200 people have died, more than 50,000 are missing, and some coastal towns have been completely destroyed.
Maybe when the scale of the humanitarian crisis becomes clear, our media will cover it a bit more... especially since earthquakes with this many casualties usually make the front page, but there’s been nothing in France.
So here’s a thought for this country, which, whatever you think of its politics, is a true jewel of South America, both for its landscapes and its people.
hi there
I’d like to invite you to discover my coastal province in central Vietnam: Quang Ngai.
This year, my province has really improved its infrastructure—mountains, countryside, and sea are all authentic here.
No harassers or thieves, and no Russians either.
A local lunch costs around 1 €.
A *** hotel room is about 25 €, and you can find hotels right on My Khe Beach.
We have a specialty: *banh xeo*—10 crepes for just 1.5 €.
You can rent motorbikes to explore the province and maybe visit the many ethnic minorities.
I live here—I’m not selling anything, but I can help if needed (my father-in-law is a traditional Vietnamese doctor and he’s very skilled).
Hi everyone! 😉
I’m Typhaine, 35 years old. Five years ago, I left France for a solo round-the-world trip—no planes, just a van, hitchhiking, cycling, and even a canoe in the Amazon! Today, I work as a naturalist guide in Argentine Patagonia.
Wherever I go, my compass stays the same: observing and photographing wildlife, which I deeply admire and respect.
My project: I’d love to share this experience through a sustainable, authentic, and immersive nature tourism initiative. But to build something meaningful, I need to understand how other nature enthusiasts experience their own adventures.
If you:
Are over 20 years old
Have a true passion for Nature
Have already taken at least one trip lasting more than 3 nights (in your country or abroad) in your life
Promise: I’m not selling anything, this isn’t marketing. Your answers are 100% anonymous and will only help me shape this wild project.
A huge thank you to everyone for your help and kindness! Looking forward to chatting in this thread 😛
(Dear admins, this is purely a collaborative effort for my project study, with no commercial purpose. Thank you so much for your support!)
Photo: Grizzly Bear (Ursus arctos horribilis), female on the left and her cub on the right. Photo taken by me in Alaska, Denali National Park.
It’s something we often notice in this forum—and many others—this behavioral shift.
A long-time member, or even a new one, asks a question.
They get one or more answers, some brief, some detailed, and then... nothing???
Not even a simple thank you!!!
From what I’ve gathered, if the answers don’t align with what they wanted to hear, it seems natural for the asker to just disappear!! 😕
Unless—(and I fear this is the case)—basic politeness is no longer part of our society????
I spent 3 weeks in Bali last summer (+ 3 nights on Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java). So I wanted to see what ChatGPT could suggest for comparison...
Here’s the prompt I gave:
"You’re a local expert guide for Bali.
- Plan a 20-day itinerary for Bali with a side trip to Gili Meno and a day trip to Kawah Ijen in Java without staying overnight.
- I’m traveling with my wife, and I love visiting historical sites, hiking, relaxing at the beach, snorkeling, and exploring rice terraces...
- For the duration of the stay, I don’t want more than 8 places to sleep, and I’d like to stay at least 2 days at each stop to avoid unpacking too often. Except for the last night, where I’m okay with just one night near the airport.
- I prefer neighborhoods that are walkable and try to avoid typical tourist traps, though I don’t want to miss the must-see spots. So suggest a mix of iconic sites and hidden gems.
- Recommend hotels or guesthouses with a budget of 50 to 100 € per night, including breakfast. Make suggestions in areas popular with travelers, specifying the vibe (I prefer quiet), and consider safety and proximity to attractions.
- For lunch and dinner, suggest two to three restaurants that are well-rated by customers.
- Give me a day-by-day program with details on travel times, visiting times for each point of interest, and recommendations for transportation (taxi, train, bike, etc.).
Estimate the total cost of the trip, including accommodations, food, transportation, and activities, and suggest two tips for saving money in each category.
- Don’t make anything up—be realistic about travel times, take into account the opening dates and hours of sites, and give me the entry fees for places to visit.
- Ask me all the questions until you’re 95% sure you understand what’s being asked. Don’t generate your response until you’ve understood."
The AI asked for a few clarifications:
"Great request—I can build you a really optimized and enjoyable itinerary, but to be 95% sure I hit the mark, I need a few key clarifications (this will really influence the pace, areas, and accommodations)."
In the end, it proposed a program very close to what we actually did.
I’ll skip its accommodation and restaurant suggestions...
Its proposal:
"Ubud (4 nights) => we did 5 nights
Sidemen (2 nights)
Amed (3 nights) => we’d planned 2 nights
Gili Meno (3 nights) => we did Gili between Sidemen and Amed
Munduk (3 nights) => we did 2 nights before Pemuteran
Pemuteran (3 nights) with Ijen => we did 4 nights
Sanur (2 nights + 1 last night) => we chose Jatiluwih instead of Sanur
It suggested "activities" (and accommodations too):
IN UBUD:
- Walk around central Ubud (1–2h)
- Campuhan Ridge Walk
- Tegalalang Rice Terrace
- Tirta Empul
- Gunung Kawi
- Massage / market / slow café
IN SIDEMEN:
- Rice terrace hike (2–3h)
- Cooking class
IN AMED:
- Snorkeling
- Japanese Shipwreck
- Beach + relaxation
- Volcano sunset
ON GILI:
- Snorkeling at Gili Meno Turtle Point, Nest Underwater Statues
IN MUNDUK:
- Jungle & waterfall hike - Munduk Waterfall + Melanting Waterfall
- Loop: 3–4h (perfect for your level)
- Ulun Danu Bratan Temple
- Twin Lakes
IN PEMUTERAN
- Snorkeling: Menjangan Island
For Kawah Ijen, it detailed the day well:
👍 from Pemuteran = best possible option
12 PM: leave hotel (we left at 10 PM)
1 PM: ferry
3 PM: arrival in Java + transfer
11 PM: start ascent
2 AM–6 AM: volcano
Return to Bali around 11 AM–12 PM (we got back at 4 PM)
👍 still very intense, but doable with an agency
💰 ~80–120 €/person all-inclusive
IN SANUR:
- Relaxation
- Quiet beach
- Proximity to airport (30 min)"
I’ve kept the habit of blowing my nose in the sink and then washing my hands—a custom I picked up in India. Sometimes, non-travelers are shocked when they catch me in the act... 🤪
Also, when I run out of toilet paper, it doesn’t bother me—unless I’ve got company over... 🤪
Just got back from walking a friend’s dog (while they’re on vacation), wearing a djellaba and Tibetan boots... 😏😏😏 Oh, for sure, if I’d run into locals, I probably would’ve shocked them? 😏
Anyway, as long as I’m not spitting on the floor at a restaurant or squatting on the side of a highway with a water bottle in hand...
After taking a little trip around the world, I came back a few months ago with an idea in mind.
I mostly do diving, and I love observing animals in their natural habitat without disturbing them.
During the trip, I realized it was quite complicated to know where and when to see certain species.
For example:
where to dive with sharks or manta rays
where you might get a chance to swim with whales
I even discovered thresher sharks during my trip… I didn’t even know this species existed before, even though they’re incredible to see.
We spent a ton of time searching for info all over the place, especially on social media, without ever getting a clear picture.
So I started putting all this together on my own, in the form of a map, to make it easier to visualize where to go depending on the seasons.
I recently put a first version online (it’s called Fauneya).
There are probably mistakes, inconsistencies, or things to improve, and that’s partly why I’m posting here.
I’d really love to know how you all go about planning this kind of trip.
As part of my Master’s thesis, I’m currently conducting a public survey on a topic that concerns all of us when planning a trip: artificial intelligence and the role of human contact in travel planning.
These days, we’re using more and more digital tools to find ideas, compare options, and book trips... but is the role of human advisors still essential? At what moments? And for what types of trips?
The survey is anonymous and takes about 7 minutes.
It’s aimed at anyone who travels (or has traveled) for leisure, whether you plan everything yourself or go through an agency.
While browsing the forum to gather info for my upcoming trip to Thailand, I often see the terms "traveler," "great traveler," and also "tourist"—so what’s the nuance for you?
I've traveled quite a bit in Vietnam over the past few years—from the southern delta to bustling cities and even some small islands—but what really sticks with me is the north, the high mountains.
Up there, there's something different—maybe slower, more raw. The morning markets with ethnic groups, women in traditional clothes, the colors...
The stilt houses, kids following you and laughing for no reason, the terraced rice fields—it almost feels unreal at times, so vast and quiet, yet so human and simple.
You often hear that Sapa has become too touristy, and that's partly true, especially in the center. But as soon as you move a little farther away, everything changes quickly. The landscapes open up, encounters feel more natural, and you rediscover something truly authentic.
I think it's that contrast that struck me—the difference between what you imagine before going and what you actually discover when you take the time.
And you—what memory do you hold onto from Vietnam? A particular place that touched you more than others?
Hello,
We’re finalizing the plans for our upcoming trip to China in May 2025. The second-to-last stop will be in Zhangjiajie, where we’ve planned to stay for 2 full days before heading to Shanghai.
We’re traveling solo using local transport and have arranged to stay in the city of Zhangjiajie.
We’ve seen that there’s a lot to see:
Tianmen Mountain, the Grand Canyon and the glass bridge, Zhangjiajie National Park, and that the sites are quite far apart with fairly expensive entry fees.
We’re thinking of dedicating one day to the national park and the Grand Canyon (glass bridge) and one day to Tianmen Mountain.
But we’re not sure if this plan is realistic—any thoughts would be much appreciated!
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore.
A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Hi everyone, here’s our itinerary. Arriving on the evening of December 13th. Departing on January 7th.
Thanks in advance for your tips and valuable feedback.
Manila – 1 night
Coron – 4 nights
Coron to El Nido cruise – 2 nights
El Nido – 4 nights
Port Barton – 5 nights
Flight from Puerto Princesa to Vigan
Vigan – 2 nights
Sagada – 2 nights
Banaue – 2 nights
Bagabag – 1 night
Manila – 1 night
I’ve only booked the flight to Manila and the Manila/Coron flight so far. Is it possible to book boat trips, accommodations, and the Puerto Princesa flight last-minute?
Really disappointed with Costa Rica! Pura vida? The scam of the century!
(Costa Rica pure emptiness).
The country where animals are free and people are in cages.
3 weeks in December in this country and never again. Imagine the trailer of a movie that seems interesting, and when you go see it, you realize it’s a flop and the best moments were in the trailer.
Well, that’s exactly how we felt with Costa Rica pure emptiness.
My wife and I have traveled quite a bit and didn’t expect to be so wrong about a place.
On the main routes, we visited:
San José
Alajuela
Limón, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, Manzanillo (Caribbean side)
Jaco, Quepos, Manuel Antonio (Pacific side)
And a few short stops in intermediate towns.
Our dissatisfaction grew gradually like this:
When we arrived at the hotel, the taxi dropped us off on a small street in front of a white metal gate with ground-floor windows barred. We looked at it skeptically, but the sign matched.
He approached the gate, rang the bell, the buzzer sounded, and the door opened slightly. The hotel wasn’t bad for the price, a 10-minute walk from downtown, but with a "Fleury-Mérogis" vibe guaranteed.
So far, so good.
After showering and regaining our bearings, we headed downtown.
What started to unsettle us on the way was seeing houses with bars on the ground-floor windows and even on the second floor.
At first, we thought the hotel’s neighborhood wasn’t great.
Downtown San José:
It’s a generic city, not very exotic, with a pedestrian street and a small mercado where you can eat local food without frills. Very few tourists—if any—which let you blend in with the locals. We had lunch and struggled to make ourselves understood because, aside from one or two shops, English wasn’t spoken.
On the way back to the hotel, we took a different route, and while chatting and strolling, my wife pointed out a beautiful two-story white house completely barricaded like Fort Knox.
From that moment, we started noticing the facades of houses and buildings, and wow, it was creepy—most looked like prisons, some even with barbed wire.
Though put off, we told ourselves it was probably a big-city thing and the rest of the country couldn’t be like this.
So far, so good.
We relaxed at the hotel and had a drink at the bar. Night falls early, around 5:30 PM. By 7:30 PM, we headed back downtown for dinner. A bit unsettling for a capital—downtown was almost deserted, and aside from fast-food chains, very few restaurants were open, with hardly anyone on the streets.
Bars with security guards out front.
I won’t say we felt unsafe that night, but once it got dark, we realized the bars on the windows weren’t for nothing. First day in, and our impression was already mixed.
The next day, we explored the city and surroundings, and our feelings didn’t change.
So far, so good.
Off to Cahuita by bus—4 hours of travel.
The landscapes are very green but quickly become monotonous. The road runs alongside the forest and passes through a few towns and villages, and even in the countryside, there were just as many prison-like houses.
The bus dropped us off at Cahuita’s terminal station—only four of us got off. It’s a village, or rather, a small town. Cahuita is basically one straight road and a perpendicular one, and honestly, doubt started to creep in.
A few restaurants that add 13% tax and 10% service charge—so 23% extra. We dropped our stuff at the hotel and went to explore. In 20 minutes, we’d seen it all. We had lunch and planned to check out the famous park.
Entry is by donation—well, the "entry" is a joke. There’s a path along the forest by the sea, and that’s it.
Nothing’s going right anymore.
We thought it was a total scam, but since we hadn’t gone far, we decided to come back the next day to explore further.
We returned to the hotel, relaxed, and around 8:00 PM, we went out for dinner. Only two restaurants were open, and the streets were deserted.
Creepy!
The next day, we explored the so-called park more thoroughly and really got it.
A path along the forest by the sea—2 hours there and 2 hours back, where you see animals that feel like showing their faces.
A total joke—"all that for this?"
The beach was full of wood debris and coconut husks. We wondered if the photos online were edited because the sea, very rough, wasn’t the azure blue we’d seen in pictures.
But calling this a park is a joke—it’s like a new concept.
When we thought about the reviews online, we started to suspect that professionals with interests in the country were monitoring and countering any negative feedback that could harm their business.
Too bad we didn’t check the negative reviews beforehand—we did while we were there, and it helped. We wondered if we’d become too demanding after all our travels, but no—when something’s bad, it’s bad.
Manuel Antonio’s park is even more ridiculous—there’s a short path along the sea for about 500 meters, and then nothing. You have to climb through mud and hack your way through the forest. We ended up barefoot because the mud was up to our calves. All that to see a raccoon and a few parrots flying overhead.
We didn’t expect Noah’s Ark, but we’ve seen more animals in Bali, Mexico, and Thailand while visiting temples or just walking around than in these so-called parks!
Puerto Viejo, not far from Cahuita and supposedly livelier—well, it couldn’t be worse!
According to Lonely Planet, it had a Caribbean vibe and wild nights, but maybe that was a long time ago. The good reggae music playing everywhere isn’t enough.
In the evening, Puerto Viejo was a bit livelier than Cahuita, but that’s not saying much. Very few tourists—if any—no night market, just two or three shops open selling $20 T-shirts. Same vibe as San José.
No big deal—we enjoyed the beach and the sun, which was reliable.
Our itinerary was supposed to include Tortuguero Park, but after talking to other travelers who’d just been, we changed our minds, knowing we’d be visiting Manuel Antonio Park on the Pacific side.
To get back to the Pacific side, you have to take the bus and go through San José again—5 hours this time—then switch bus terminals and another 4.5 hours to Quepos.
A stopover town to get to Manuel Antonio’s beach and park!
A town just like the others we’d seen—deserted as soon as the sun sets, and not exactly bustling during the day either. (Where are all the tourists?)
Still as many bars on the windows and that feeling of being in the wrong place.
7 km later: Manuel Antonio beach and park.
The beach is very beautiful and quite large, but don’t expect turquoise blue water—the waves stir up the sand, giving the water a brownish color.
Along the beach, shops and restaurants for about 300 meters, and then nothing. At night, after sunset, the town shuts down too.
Manuel Antonio Park is highly praised for its wildlife, so we were eager to see it. When you express dissatisfaction with Cahuita or Manzanillo parks, the response is always, "But you should’ve gone to Monteverde or Manuel Antonio!" No matter what you do or say, they’ll tell you, "You should’ve gone there or here."
Back to our famous park—entry was about $16, and contrary to what we’d heard, it wasn’t crowded!
Guides at the entrance with spotting scopes offered their services for about $30.
The park: a mix of boardwalk and dirt paths through the forest, sometimes running alongside beautiful coves and beaches.
As soon as we entered, a crowd was taking photos of a deer eating leaves.
A little further on, a guide with a group of five stopped. The guide raised his arm and set up his spotting scope! He showed them, about 100 meters away, a hummingbird perched on a branch. Some, looking through the scope, exclaimed, "Oh my God! Amazing! Incredible!"
For a moment, we thought they’d discovered a unicorn or were in Jurassic Park and had just crossed paths with a T-Rex!
The concept is comical—looking at a bird or another animal through a spotting scope because it’s too far away. Isn’t that what TV is for?
For our part, we saw monkeys, ants, an armadillo, an iguana, and the backside of a sloth climbing a tree. Amazing, incredible!
We stayed a few days in Manuel Antonio to enjoy the beach, changing hotels often because prices varied wildly from one day to the next for shameful services. On top of that, they’d quote a price in dollars and convert it at their discretion—thieves!
Alajuela, a city near the airport, has a two-story mall and a local market downtown! No interest except its proximity to the airport.
What we liked:
The climate and, in hindsight, San José—the most authentic city we visited.
What we didn’t like, in addition to what we’ve already mentioned:
Costa Ricans aren’t very friendly or communicative. English is barely spoken, not even by doctors at Quepos Hospital, where my wife ended up with food poisoning (thanks, Google Translate). The widespread obesity among Costa Ricans, who eat like Americans. The insecurity. The eco-hipsters who leave their $150 lodges in minivans with guides to visit parks and other sites, then return to barricade themselves in their fortresses at nightfall (oh my God, amazing, incredible). The blue signs at the entrance of towns that accept this payment method: "We accept American Express." Parking lots that become paid just because a guy is watching your car. Prices displayed in dollars. The cost of living (hotels, restaurants, taxes). Landscapes that are too green and not flowery enough. Beaches—nothing exceptional. Pollution in cities where big American trucks rule. Sewage dumped directly into the sea. Aside from the jungle, there’s nothing to visit—no ruins, monuments, or anything worth seeing.
In short, my wife and I think the hype about this supposedly eco-friendly country is overrated. It’s just the trendy destination of the moment. There are much better, cheaper, and more authentic places.
In hindsight, we keep the good memories and our beautiful photos, but if we had to do it over...
Before signing off, a little message to those who don’t like hearing opinions different from theirs:
Well, some things aren’t up for debate. And to those who’d have us believe that in 3 weeks, we don’t have the right to criticize a country or express our feelings—how can you praise it in so little time? What a scam. Costa Rica is a money pit. Pura vida? Pure cosmic emptiness.
If you like spending your evenings barricaded in your cozy hotel after dark, this country is for you.
For everyone else: run!
Hello,
Since the war between Russia and Ukraine, nothing is simple anymore for traveling to Belarus due to sanctions.
No more direct flights from the EU to Minsk.
Driving is a huge hassle, especially crossing through Poland at the only open border in Brest—you can wait 2, 3, or even 4 days just to get through by car.
The least painful driving option is to come via Lithuania and cross at the only open border, with a minimum wait time of 8 hours, sometimes up to 20 hours or more!!
Controls are very strict and annoying on both the Lithuanian and Belarusian sides. Avoid bringing alcohol, food, or cigarettes—everything will end up in the trash, especially when leaving Belarus for Vilnius, where the Lithuanians are tough, even with EU citizens.
The joy I once knew when visiting my wife in Minsk is sadly over—it’s now a real ordeal.
The fastest solution is to fly. My wife travels to France by taking a bus to Kaunas in Lithuania, where you can catch a flight (though not daily) to Paris Beauvais or Charleroi in Belgium with Ryanair, for example.
For the return trip, it’s the same: a flight to Kaunas and then a direct bus from the airport to Minsk.
The bus crossing is quicker than driving—the 250 km journey, including border checks, takes about 6 to 8 hours for buses leaving Lithuania around midnight, but controls are still strict at the border.
The biggest challenge is finding flight schedules that align with the bus routes between the two countries, given the unpredictable border crossing times.
Now, my wife travels via Charleroi in Belgium (near Brussels), and you can take a train to Paris. Alternatively, you can fly into Beauvais and take a bus to Paris (Porte Maillot).
For those driving, note that EU insurance and assistance policies no longer work in Belarus or Russia. You’ll need to get local insurance, usually limited to third-party liability (I don’t think full coverage exists?), as well as mandatory medical insurance. This is available at the border.
You now have to pay highway tolls—no more BELTOLL boxes. Instead, you pay a flat fee for the duration of your stay. Stop at the first gas station after crossing from Lithuania to fill up on fuel and cigarettes.
From what I know, Lithuania bans carrying more than 60 € in cash, but there’s no limit for USD (though it’s capped at $10,000??).
With a Visa card, you can now withdraw 1,000 rubles per week (about 270 €)—two months ago, it was only 500 rubles!!
For now, you can still pay by card in shops and gas stations.
However, major retailers like KORONA (which may be Russian-owned??) no longer accept foreign Visa cards.
Unfortunately, the additional sanctions announced by the U.S. on August 5, 2025, against Russia—and possibly Belarus—aren’t promising for the future.
After 20 years of visiting Belarus, I’m truly saddened to see the joy of living in this country with my wonderful wife turn into such a bleak situation, all because of human folly.
Hi everyone!
I’m putting together our travel itinerary for Veneto at the end of April. And the more I look and research potential sites to visit, the more I find!
We’ll only be there for a week—my family and I—including 3 days in Venice. So we have to make some choices...
I plan to rent a car when we arrive in Venice and head straight to Bergamo, which would be our first stop. We’d leave the car at the airport when we return to Venice so we can explore the city at our leisure.
What do you think:
1 night in Bergamo (a 2h15 drive from Venice airport),
1 night in Garda,
1 night in Verona,
1 in Padua, and
3 in Venice—would that be doable?
Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! :)
Now that the curtain has fallen on the past year, it’s time to see what’s happening around here.
It seems pretty quiet, but I’ll read more in detail later.
First, I need to tell you all an anecdote.
My eldest little girl, in her third year of law school, was really scared she wouldn’t pass the year.
I told her:
“Trust yourself, you’ve worked so hard, and worst case, if you fail, you’ll just redo the year.”
“But I don’t think I’ll make it—they changed the rules, and if I mess up even one unit, I have to start all over.”
I knew her grades weren’t exactly stellar, and with what I was about to say, I wasn’t taking much of a risk.
“Here’s the deal, sweetheart: if you pass, I promise I’ll take you to India, just the two of us.”
I have to admit, India is a country I’ve talked about so much to all my grandchildren that in their minds, it’s become a magical, mythical place (hmm).
July had barely begun when my phone rang, her name flashing on the screen.
“Mamido, I did it!”
My promise came rushing back—oh no, oh no, oh no!
“Congratulations, sweetheart!”
A little shyly, she said:
“Is the India trip still on?”
And me, replying:
“Of course it is!”
And that’s that—a promise is a promise, or you risk losing that precious trust that keeps hearts warm and at peace.
We’re leaving in February. Only 8 days—yikes, the carbon footprint!
But we can’t miss her tutorials, or she’ll be kicked out.
Personally, that works just fine for me.
Going to India has become a challenge for me. It’s far, it’s exhausting, I sweat, I hate mosquitoes, the spices bother my mouth when I used to love them. There’s noise all the time—at night, the dogs bark nonstop, and we almost get run over. I’ll get lost in the streets because my sense of direction has vanished. I don’t like rice anymore. All that chaos and those cultural differences that once enchanted me now just overwhelm me.
But I promised.
The upside—and it’s a big one—Raman, the same driver I’ve had forever, will be at the airport with a sign with our names. We’ll stop at the same little shop for chai (or tea, plain and simple) with that aroma that intoxicates me, halfway through the trip.
It’ll be a tiny trip—staying with friends, I’ll show her a few places I love: Chidambaram, Mamallapuram, and the clinic where I worked. Then we’ll head back.
My little girl will go home to her parents.
As for me, I’ll leave right away for our Scottish island with Homme for our chilly winter.
How can you love a country so much you want to live there, then suddenly reject it, no longer able to appreciate what once made it special?
That’s the mystery of love, I guess.
I’ve visited the U.S. four times myself, including two long road trips. The last one was just this past August...
I won’t be going back. I already felt guilty last August, but recent policies have finally convinced me: the humiliation of Zelensky, authoritarian excesses, Gestapo-like methods for detaining people of foreign origin, the murder of innocent people (a mother shot dead), corruption, insane "tariffs," skyrocketing healthcare costs for Americans, the abduction of foreign figures to secure oil, the requirement to disclose social media accounts, and now... threats and blackmail to forcibly take Greenland—a region that belongs to Denmark and thus the European Union!
The reality is that simply posting this could get me denied entry to the U.S.!
In this context, I just can’t keep spending money there. I loved my trips, but there are so many other countries with stunning landscapes to explore.
So I get why you’d want to travel there. I did, and I loved it. But once a country no longer respects any of the values that made us love it, why go?
How can we even consider traveling to a country that threatens to take one of our territories by force?
Hello everyone,
Controversial topic? Not necessarily—maybe just a reflection on a world to come.
I spent the last 15 days of August on a cruise in Greenland, from Kangerlussuaq to Tasiilaq.
I was utterly amazed by this unique world of rock and ice, the little houses in every color, a simple life that’s also complicated by isolation and climate, among other things...
I carry in my heart the kindness of the people I met, the raw and gentle majesty of the icebergs, the colors of the sky...
So, I can’t even imagine a massive presence of raw material prospectors, heavy machinery requiring roads to be built—if that’s even possible—changing their way of life... putting sled dogs out to pasture!
Do fast food and Greenland’s northern lights really mix?
I wouldn’t trade my memories for an ESTA!
All opinions are respectable, which is why this isn’t a controversy—but I’m sorry, I have a soft spot for *my* Greenland.
We’re a couple aged 58 and 63. We’ve just returned from a wonderful trip to South India in Tamil Nadu and a few days in Kerala. We traveled with a local French-speaking guide and his friend, the driver. They both live in Pondicherry. We spent 3 weeks with them in the most authentic way!
We covered just over 2,500 km and visited not only temples but also archaeological sites, museums, and small artisanal businesses making tiles, tea, sculptures, bronze, and silk spinning. We were lucky enough to visit a public school, attend a wedding, and even a death announcement in a small countryside village. We were fully immersed in the culture, food, noise, and colors—it was incredible!
The hotels and guesthouses we chose were very clean and mostly quiet. We’re returning from India with amazing discoveries!
We’re happy to share more info if you’d like!
M-Claire and Jean
This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.
VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now.
The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.
Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions.
I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.
Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.
Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid?
Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again?
Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with?
Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now?
What’s really going on here?
This isn’t exactly a traveler’s question... I’d like to know who handles the technical side of this forum?
I run a similar forum on a different topic (unrecognized children), and we’re dealing with a few technical issues that are slowly killing our forum... so I’d have one or two questions to ask 😊.
Also, I was wondering who created this forum... who the administrators or moderators are, etc.
I think this forum is great. Much better than Facebook, which I’ve been using since it shut down (so I’m happy to see it’s working again...)
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