Merci Emma. Je tacherai de profiter au maximum de tout ce voyage. Essayer de cicatriser au moins superficiellement, la blessure profonde causée par le départ ma maman.
Et évidement quand j'aurai du temps et du wifi, j'en profiterai pour donner signe de vie: vais-je survivre au pila alors que Régis me menace de me jeter aux lions depuis quelques jours!!!.
Quant aux rencontres Vf, je m'en réjouis à l'avance, 😄😄😄
Au retour, la rentrée c'est le lendemain, donc il y aura un carnet, oui, mais qui prendra du temps.
Dans l'un des Atm de l'aéroport de ORTambo, on peut retirer jusqu'à 3000 rands en une fois
Nous terminons notre 2ème jour à jobourg et nous sommes toujours sains et saufs, malgré plus de 24 heures de voyage entre Paris et jobourg, la conduite à gauche et un Gps qui a refusé de fonctionner au départ. Heureusement les flics nous ont remis sur la bonne route vers notre hotel à sandton, en nous recommandant d'éviter le centre de Jobourg de nuit!!!! Glups!!!!
Le nombre de mendiants à chaque feu est impressionnant!
Nous avons visité le musée de l'apartheid : très touchant! Et leur restaurant est très bon! voici une photo d'une spécialité africaine: le bobotie.
Ce soir nous allons voir une comedie musicale: sister act au jobourg theatre. Nous avons choisi de nous faire conduire!!!!! Conduire de jour, ça va, mais de nuit finalement, c'est un peu moins cool!
Et c'est parti !
Je décolle Samedi, aterrissage à Joburg Dimanche et je file immédiatement vers Martin Drift, je dormirai dans ce coin là pour passer la frontière au matin. 😉
Erwan
La vie est belle ! La vie est belle ! Je me tue à vous le dire disait la fleur. Et elle meurt ( J.Prévert)
ouais, mais toi, ce sera du hard!
Finalement, le tiguan est vraiment un petit SUV: tous nos bagages ne tiennent pas dans le coffre.
Ce n'est vraiment pas pratique.
J'ai vu le toyota fortuner à côté, il est beaucoup plus gros, surtout en 4X4!
Si etihad est correct comme compagnie, l'aéroport d'abu dhabi est hyper trop petit, et je n'ai pas du tout aimé!
Sacré Nammanu! Fais gaffe, bientôt ces mêmes noirs pourraient venir en Namibie, puisqu'ils ont élu Sandton comme leur quartier de base à Jobourg.
La comédie musicale "sister act" était superbe, l'orchestre était hyper équipé en mac book pro, pour le son des claviers. les ingénieurs son sont à la hauteur des acteurs et comédiens. L'accoustic de la salle était bien, et l'enchainement des changements de décors étaient dignes de ceux de broadway. Bref, je suis contente non seulement d'avoir assisté à une comédie musicale jouée par des sud africains, alors que j'ai l'habitude de celles de broadway, et je suis contente d'avoir découvert une autre salle de spectacle.
Le chauffeur qui nous a ramené, est originaire de soweto, et il n'a pas arrêté de nous donner les détails des visites qu'ils font vers Soweto. Il s'est aussi offusqué quand je lui ai dit que j'avais renoncé à la visite du carlton center à cause de la violence qui sévit dans le coin. Bref, il va falloir que je revienne!!!!
Et ce jour là, les pauvres blancs émigrés à Otjiwarongo, risquent fort de me voir débarquer!!!!!
Ceci dit, j'ai vu des noirs faire la manche, mais pas encore des blancs!!!!! A Cape town, tu crois?
Les blancs qui font la manche se retrouvent partout. C'est généralement la "vraie" manche sans l'alibi de te vendre un petit truc ou de te rendre un petit service.
Ils sont généralement physiquement plus déglingués.
Pour eux, c'est la chute. Un peu comme si je me retrouvais moi même et ma cuillère en argent sdf du jour au lendemain en France.
Pour eux, c'est la chute. Un peu comme si je me retrouvais moi même et ma cuillère en argent sdf du jour au lendemain en France.
La plupart d'entre eux étaient sans doute déjà fragilisés, pas ou peu de famille fiable, situations précaires mais protégés par leur statut de blancs qui leur permettait d'éviter la rue. Ces blancs là ne sont plus protégés, ils vivent en enfer, méprisés des autres blancs et boucs émissaires des noirs pauvres parmis lesquels ils sont contraints de vivre.
Un sort bien peu enviable que nous ne risquons pas de subir, ni toi ni moi, même si un gros cassage de gueule social est toujours possible.
Pour résumer, ils tombent de moins haut que toi mais tombent beaucoup plus bas que tu pourrais tomber.
Erwan
La vie est belle ! La vie est belle ! Je me tue à vous le dire disait la fleur. Et elle meurt ( J.Prévert)
Les noirs dans les carrefours ne proposaient aucun service. Ces mendiants avaient juste des pancartes expliquant leur situation. D'après ce que nous a expliqué l'un des chauffeurs, la raison pour laquelle aucune voiture ne s'arrête pour leur donner, tient au fait que pendant que vous leur donner de l'argent, ils peuvent en profiter pour essayer de voler des objets dans votre voiture (mobile par exemple)
Au musée de l'apartheid, nous avons eu le loisir d'entendre la langue zoulou. J'aime beaucoup la mélodie de cette langue. C'est très chantant.
Je ne sais pas si les petits vendeurs ont diaparu, mais je n'en ai pas vu.
Hier, pas de wifi à thaba twseni lodge, mais juste avant d'arriver nous sommes passés à god'swindow qui fermait pour le public, mais apparemment pas pour tous les êtres vivants.
Petit dédicace à tout VF, et particulièrement tous ceux et celles que je taquine depuis longtemps.
Merci pour le cours d'initiation au zoulou. On va tester pour voir!!!!!
J'ai des interrogations concernant pilgrim's rest.
Le village est vraiment sympa, mais quand nous y sommes allés, il y avait très peu de touristes.
Tous les vendeurs de souvenirs à qui nous avons eu affaire, insistaient vraiment pour que nous puissions acheter leurs produits, beaucoup prétendant que nous étions leur premier client, alors que nous y étions en fin de matinée!!!
J'étais intéressée par des statuettes d'animaux en bois, et chaque fois que j'ai demandé à voir un animal, la vendeuse ou le vendeur n'attendait même pas que j'ai dit que je trouvais son prix trop élevé pour me proposer un prix moins élevé que celui annoncé en premier lieu!!!!! Est-ce le principe partout la-bas?
Lorsque nous sommes arrivés à Pilgrim's rest, un type nous a imposé de garer à une place à l'entrée du village, disant que nous n'avions pas le droit de remonter la rue en voiture. Quand nous sommes revenus après notre visite et notre repas, notre voiture avait été sommairement lavée, sans que nous l'ayons demandé. Et le gars qui finissait de la laver, nous a demandé 180 Rands pour le lavage. J'ai protesté, et il m'a répondu que c'est tout ce qu'il faisait pour vivre, et qu'il aurait pu avoir choisi de casser la voiture plutôt. Devant tant de vérité et de menace à peine voilée, j'ai donné 100 rands, ce dont il s'est contenté. Est-ce propre à Pilgrim's rest, ou est-ce une coutume africaine?
Pilgrim's rest est en perte de vitesse depuis un bon moment. C'est (ou c'était) une destination très touristique et autocariste.
Cela a donc attiré...
Tourisme dit souvent marchandage...
Tourisme dit souvent petits arnaqueurs...
Qui quelquefois viennent de loin pour grapiller +/- honnêtement des sous. Tes vendeurs ne venaient peut-être même pas d'AFS. De plus en plus j'ai pu voir des "venants" de toute l'afrique.
Comme la ressource se fait plus rare, le marchandage et la vente forcée deviennent une règle.
Le coup du lavage forcé avec la menace qui va bien...malheureusement cela peut arriver...surtout avec des touristes dans un lieu touristique. C'est loin d'une règle en AFS.
De plus, pour exemple, à Calvinia, la voiture a été lavée dans les règles...pour 80 ZAR...et 70 de pourboire...mais c'était à Calvinia et les 70 n'étaient en rien une obligation.
Désolé de cette petite mésaventure. L'afs a aussi de mauvais côté mais pas beaucoup.
"Coutume africaine"...Tss, tss...
On va tester pour voir!!!!!
80% de la population doit normalement comprendre...Il y a une petite intonation traînante (pas facile par ordi !) sur certaines syllabes
Jamais eu le problème non plus.
Et 100 rands c'est énorme ! 🤪
Pour tes souvenirs, attends de voir les prix dans une boutique.
Ça te donnera une idée des tarifs si tu préfères acheter dans des stands.
Les sculptures sur bois ne sont généralement pas sud africaines et certains vendeurs seront peut être plus à l aise pour marchander en français...
ne jamais se laisser intimider ou imposer quelque chose, au besoin tu appelles la police, tu "gueules" un bon coup pour ameuter du monde.
Les vendeurs locaux savent qu'ils ont plus à perdre et en général ils vont faire la police eux mêmes.
Il y a trop de gars qui se contentent d'encaisser sans donner le service correspondant.
Je sais c'est dur mais il ne faut pas s'apitoyer plus que de raison car un business est un business.
Tu auras beaucoup d'occasions de donner tes billets de riche occidentale a des pauvres.
Concernant le marchandage, c'est une habitude importée par les touristes en Afrique australe. Elle n'existait encore pas il y a 10 ans. Elle vient suite aux séjours en Afrique du Nord ou de l'Ouest, comme quoi "La coutume africaine" au sens large n'existe pas. Il y a plein de pays différents. Moi je n'aime pas "L'Afrique", j'aime la Namibie mais pas le Botswana.
Je ne suis pas traumatisée par cette expérience de pilgrim's rest. Il avait vraiment lavé la voiture.
Pour ce qui est du kruger, après 4 jours sans wifi, je peux enfin dire qu' on trouve de super tee-shirts dans les shops la-bas.
J'ai fait une razzia: des tee shirts avec toute sorte d'images d'animaux, des lions, des éléphants, des rhinos, le big five au complet....... Je suis ravie. Merci Voyou de l'information. C'était au delà de mes espérances.
Toujours concernant le kruger, les restaurants mugg and bean sont délicieux. Et leurs chocolats chauds avec de la crèmes un pur délice. Bref, je suis vraiment ravie de mon passage la-bas.
Par ailleurs, il y avait énormément d' herbivores qui trainaient dans le coin, dont un éléphant qui a refusé de pousser son arrière train de la piste pour nous laisser passer. Ça manque sérieusement d'éducation la-dedans!
Les giraffes sont trop mignonnes, avec leurs longs cous, et leurs regarrds inquisiteurs gentiment tournés vers nous. Leur port altier tant à prélever des feuilles, qu'à traverser devant nous est une vraie leçon d'élégance.
Mes préférées, les impalas sont d'une délicatesse, d'une grâce et d'un savoir vivre, elles!!!!!. C'est un vrai bonheur, de les voir vérifier que la voiture a bien l'intention de les laisser passer, avant de s'avancer.
Puis elles défilent fièrement avec la queue entre les jambes, à la queue leu leu, de vraies majorettes quoi.
Nous en avons vu à profusion.
Les babouins et les velvets sont de fiéffés coquins, toujours prompts à voler de la nourriture qui ne leur était pas destinée.
Naughty, a dit l' une des employées de lower sabie qui leur lançait des pierres pour les faire fuire. Moi, je les trouve intelligents et adaptés à l'espèce humaine. Ils savent en tirer leur partie.
Les hippos! Que dire des hippos, à part qu'ils sont des mécontents qui passent leur temps à grogner!!! C'est vraiment difficile d'imaginer que ces mastodontes nonchalents puissent se montrer agressifs. Il y avait plein de petits quand nous y étions.
Les zébres sont des animaux qui savent utiliser les branches mortes utilement!!!
Les rhinos? ah, oui! nous en avons vu 3 qui avaient encore leurs cornes et qui faisaient la sieste.
Quant aux buffles, leur troupeau forme une masse compacte et impressionnante. Comme dirait Boulwai, il faisait un soleil à décorner un buffle. Vive les points d'eau!!!!! Parfois jusqu'à 26°C la journée!!! Une vraie canicule, j'te dis!!!! Vivement l'hiver!!!
Des fauves! des fauves? C'est une légende, non?
La sécheresse est très présente au kruger. Je n'avais jamais encore vu un paysage aussi jaune, autant les herbes que les arbres. C'est vraiment impressionnant. En tout cas, ça m'a changé de chez moi
Nous sommes maintenant au pila. On devrait rencontrer un phénomène très rare: un certain Régis Julie!!!!
Ca y est: au Pila, nous avons avons rencontré Régis et son adrable fille grâce à qui je suis encore vivante. Ensemble, Nous avons rencontré une famille de lions, lionnes, lionceaux, hier au cours d'un tour guidé, et ce matin, juste nous 4, nous avons pu apprécier un léopard. J'ai maintenant vu mes fauves au pila.
Nous sommes maintenant a Rosh pina au wimpy! Nous avons visité le mesosaurus camps, sesriem et ses dunes, et avons séjourné à klein aus vista.
Tout est très beau, mais le décès récent de ma mère terni vraiment l'ensemble. Quand on part en voyage, on ne laisse pas derrière soi ses blessures. De ce côté là, c'est un peu raté.
Encore dans un wimpy, mais cette fois ci à sprigbok, où les fleurs sont maagnifiques, et les pancakes et les milkshakes aussi.
On voit Airone ce soir, enfin, s'il est toujours en vie, j'espère.
Au fait, les températures les plus fraîches la nuit étaient autour de 8°C, et pendant la journée, les températures sont montées à 30°c, le plus souvent à 26°c. C'est quoi cet hiver qui s'arrête le 15 aout????
Aucune idée concernant les livraisons du wimpy, de rosh pina mais les plus importantes nous concernant.
La piste C27, qui longe l'orange river est sublime. Elle me rappelle une autre piste en Utah, que j'avais parcouru avec mes parents il y a 2 ans. Et ma mère s'était émerveillée de ces formes rocheuses et des couleurs extraordinaires de la terre. Pareil, nous avions des falaises abruptes, des pistes en lacet, .... Et à sesriem, cette couleur rouge me rapellait les roches rouges de l'Utah où mes parents nous avaient accompagnés.
Ma mère aimait voyager. Et chaque fois que j'organisais un voyage qui pouvait leur convenir, ils venaient avec moi.
Bref, tout un tas de raisons pour créer ces gros coups de blues.
Elle serais surement heureuse d'avoir pu être là avec nous.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana / Afrique du Sud · 4 replies
Nous envisageons avec mon amie de partir pour johannesburg au mois de juillet prochain puis ensuite de visiter le Kalahari, le delta de l'okavango et peut être…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana / Afrique du Sud · 16 replies
à tous, J'envisage fin Octobre un périple de 10 jours au Botswana au départ (et retour) de Johannesurg, en louant un 4x4 avec double tente sur toit (nous…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana / Afrique du Sud · 8 replies
Toujours en élaboration d'un periple en Aout 2008, je voudrais savoir s'il est envisageable d'effectuer le trajet en voiture Johannesburg -- Nata (Botswana) en…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Afrique du Sud / Botswana · 9 replies
Fin mai 2015 je vais aller de Johannesburg à Kasane. Quelqu'un peut me dire où camper sur ce trajet à 3/4H00 de route de Johannesburg, l'idée est de quitter la…
Carnets de voyage › Afrique du Sud / Namibie / Botswana · 12 replies
Tous, de retour depuis une semaine, des images plein la tête, je me dis qu'il est temps d'essayer de vous faire un petit retour! Je remercie en bloc toutes les…
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
