Hello everyone, what a pleasure to be back on this forum!
My partner and I are heading to Japan for the first time from mid-December to mid-January for 31 days. It’s a long-held dream we’ve been saving for over two years, and we want to enjoy ourselves while also being mindful of our budget for parts of the trip. We’d love to explore Tokyo, but we’ve chosen to spend more time in nature. My partner plans to get his driver’s license translated locally so we can rent a car. We’ve heard from friends who’ve been that Japan isn’t the best place for improvisation, so we’ve tried to allow plenty of time in each location to avoid rushing.
Still, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the itinerary we’ve planned—whether it’s feasible in terms of travel and how interesting it seems. Given the recent increase in the JR Pass price and the fact that we’ll spend about ten days on Goto, Ojika, and Yakushima (where the JR Pass doesn’t cover travel), we don’t think it’s worth it for us. Instead, we’re planning to take the train from Tokyo to Fukuoka and then use buses and ferries for the rest of Kyushu. Here’s our itinerary:
1- December 13 / Arrival in Tokyo, one night in Tokyo, then departure for Fukuoka by train on the morning of the 14th.
2 - December 14-16 / 2 nights in Fukuoka, sightseeing, then departure on the evening/night of the 16th by ferry to Ojika Islands.
3 - December 17-21 / 4 nights on Ojika, cycling and exploring, then departure on the 21st by ferry to Fukue on the Goto Islands.
4 - December 21-24 / 3 nights on the Goto Islands, renting a car to explore, maybe a trip to Hisaka. Departure for Nagasaki by ferry on the morning of the 24th.
5- December 24-26 / 2 nights in Nagasaki, visiting the city and memorials, possibly the hot springs in Unzen. Departure on the evening of the 26th by bus or ferry (?) to Kumamoto.
6- December 26-29 / 3 nights in Kumamoto, sightseeing, day trip by car to Mount Aso and surrounding areas. Departure on the 29th in the late afternoon by bus to Kagoshima, overnight in Kagoshima.
7- December 30 to January 2 / Morning departure by ferry to Yakushima for 3 nights, hiking and exploring the island. Departure on January 2 on the only ferry (?) in the early afternoon back to Kagoshima.
8- January 2 to 5 / Uncertain leg... We’d like to spend the night of the 4th to the 5th at a ryokan in Kurokawa Onsen and then head back to Fukuoka and Tokyo by train on the 5th. From the 2nd to the 4th, since we’ll arrive in Kagoshima in the late afternoon, we thought we could head back up to Kumamoto by train or bus—going to Yufuin or Beppu would take much longer and leave us with very little time. But is it worth staying another 2 nights in Kumamoto to explore the area, given we’ll already be there for 3 days from December 26-29? Or should we stay in Kagoshima and head up to Kurokawa Onsen on the afternoon of the 4th for our overnight stay?
9- January 5 to 13, Tokyo and its endless things to do and see, then back to France!
If you have any advice on any of these stops, we’d love to hear it! Have a wonderful day.
Hello,
I find the Kyūshū section really well-balanced.
And what a surprise to see Ojika among the destinations! The island is still relatively unknown but so beautiful. I spent 3 nights there (plus the one on the ferry—amazing) just a month ago, and I can’t wait to go back.
Fukue is also a big favorite. Don’t hesitate if you have any questions about these islands (or Kyūshū in general).
8- January 2nd to 5th / uncertain leg... We’d like to spend the night of the 4th to 5th in a ryokan at Kurokawa Onsen, then leave by bus for Fukuoka on the 5th before taking the train to Tokyo. From the 2nd to the 4th, since we arrive in the late afternoon in Kagoshima, we thought we could head up to Kumamoto by train or bus because getting to Yufuin or Beppu would take much longer and leave us very little time there. But is it worth spending 2 more nights in Kumamoto to explore the area, given we’re already there for 3 days from the 26th to the 29th? Or should we stay in Kagoshima and head up to Kurokawa Onsen on the evening of the 4th for that night?
First tip: if you want to stay in Kurokawa, check availability right away. It’s still New Year’s holidays at that time, and the village might be packed.
I think you’ll have already seen a lot during your first stay in Kumamoto, so I’m not sure it’s worth going back.
Why not just stay in Kagoshima? Between the volcano, Ibusuki and its sand baths (so nice in winter), Chiran, the entire Minami-Satsuma peninsula, Kirishima, etc., there’s plenty to see and do.
Hello,
I’m responding about the budget aspect, because Japan has a reputation for being an expensive country that I think is very undeserved. I’ve taken two trips there in 2018 and 2023.
For car rental: return the car in the same prefecture to avoid one-way fees. This usually means planning a loop itinerary.
When choosing accommodations, if you’re renting a car, pick hotels with parking. You can’t park on the street, so you’ll need to find a public parking lot near your lodging—it’s not always easy.
Speaking of hotels, budget-friendly options aren’t too pricey. Chains like Toyoko, APA, and Dormy, for example, let you stay for around 60 € per night. A hearty buffet breakfast is included, and there’s usually some Western food if you prefer. They also always have a laundry room. It’s not "traditional Japanese" if you’re hoping for a ryokan-style stay, but it’s very much modern Japan since the clientele is mostly Japanese.
As for food, restaurants aren’t expensive. Train stations usually have lots of eateries, and unlike in Europe, they’re not sketchy areas. You can easily eat for 20-30 € for two.
At convenience stores (7-Eleven, Lawson, etc.), you’ll find meals like sushi platters, onigiri, more Western-style sandwiches, custards, fruit, pastries, and instant noodle soups (great in a pinch). There’s a seating counter and kettles, so you can eat on the spot. Often, there’s also a display with hot food at the checkout. If you had a big hotel breakfast, this is a practical and very budget-friendly option.
Yeah, I can’t wait to discover Ojika! For Kurokawa, we’ve already booked, and it’s true that a lot of places are fully booked—plus, many are closed at this time of year... I have a question about the Goto Islands: I read somewhere that a car is essential to get around there. Is that really the case? Actually, my boyfriend really wants to drive, but we’re still keeping in mind that he’ll need to get used to driving over there and test the waters.
It’s true that it might be simpler to stay in Kagoshima when we get back from Yakushima. I’ll look into the routes to Kurokawa on the 4th.
Driving in Japan isn’t a problem at all. You get used to driving on the left pretty quickly, and Japanese drivers are generally pretty relaxed—except they don’t stick to speed limits on the highway. Outside of highways, traffic can be really slow. The most important thing is to have a GPS, and make sure the rental company sets it to English. You can enter your destination using a phone number, which makes things easier (everything has a phone number!)
During our last car rental, the company had put a small magnetic sign on the car’s fender. When we translated it, it said that a foreigner was driving. So we took it off (it’s not a mandatory sign).
I have a question about the Goto Islands—I read somewhere that a car is essential to get around. Is that really the case?
On Ojika, it’s not essential. The island is small enough that you can get around by bike, but a car is still more convenient (we really appreciated having one with two young kids).
On Fukue, though, it’s a must. I don’t have a license, so I spent a week relying on buses. Even though there are quite a few, they don’t cover the whole island—or if they do, it takes forever. I ended up having to join a bus tour to visit places I wanted to see, like Cape Osezaki (no buses go there at all).
Why not rent a car on Ojika to get used to driving on the left? The roads are really quiet, and people drive slowly.
If you’d like ideas for things to see on Ojika, I posted our whole trip on Instagram in pinned stories and started making posts: https://www.instagram.com/bene_fukuoka/
(I also talk about Fukue, a bit earlier in the year).
Hi there,
Just a heads-up that translating your driver’s license for Japan can take up to 2 weeks—something to keep in mind if you’re staying for 31 days. You’ll need to apply online via the JAF app, but only while you’re in Japan. It costs 4,000 yen (about 24 €) by credit card, if nothing’s changed.
Alternatively, you can do it in person at a JAF (Japan Automobile Federation) office, but processing times vary from a few hours to 2 weeks. 😠
Another option, which is more expensive, is to go through the agency DestnationJa......., which charges 80 euros, but this allows you to get your translation before leaving. The translation is valid as long as your national driver’s license is valid. I don’t know how it works for a French license, but my Swiss license doesn’t have an expiration date. So I don’t need to renew the Japanese translation.
For the French driver’s license, you can get the new card format for cars at 15 years old—unless it’s for medical reasons, in which case you’ll need to renew the card later.
What a great idea, the Goto Islands! I was hoping to go this year, but it’ll have to wait.
I’ll answer in no particular order.
For the French driver’s license—if it’s the old dark pink paper version—there’s no expiration date, so the translation will be unlimited.
On-site, it takes a few hours. I did it in Kyoto, and we only waited 1 hour, but you’ll need to factor in travel time. You can probably do it in Tokyo or Fukuoka. Check the JAF agencies. Getting it done beforehand through an agency takes 2 weeks and offers peace of mind, but it’s *very* expensive—more than 3 times the on-site price. It’s up to you to decide what works best.
For driving, ... On the left side, I had the same concerns, but don’t worry—it’s easy to adapt. Japanese drivers are calm and rarely honk, which actually stresses *us* out. Plus, the cars are automatic, so you don’t have to worry about shifting gears. For GPS, twice now, it hasn’t worked well with phone numbers. The last rental car I had, though, had a Google search function that worked perfectly when entering an address. Worst case, plan for Maps.me—it works offline if you download the maps ahead of time. If you have internet, Waze or another GPS is fine. Make sure to ask the rental company to show you how to use the main features if you’ve never driven an automatic before.
For returning the car, dropping it off at the same location saves money. However, depending on your plans and budget, the extra fee for returning it in another city might fit into your itinerary. Returning it to the same place adds a constraint—see if that works for you. I’ve rented in one place and returned in another several times, and it was more convenient for me. The extra cost was around 100 €.
I also vote for staying in Kagoshima—the area is fantastic, and the vibe is really pleasant.
Finally, booking in advance isn’t essential (except for certain places), but it’s practical. With free cancellation, you can adjust your plans based on your mood, the weather, or how you’re feeling. However, I think booking ahead is cheaper. Right now, I’m in Japan unexpectedly, and all my bookings were made a week in advance. The accommodation options are limited, and the prices are much higher than on my previous trips, where I booked 3–4 months ahead.
And yes, renting a hotel with parking if you have a car is a must.
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I’ve booked my flight ticket to China, arriving in Hong Kong and departing from Chongqing.
I have 27 nights there.
Here’s my draft itinerary:
Hong Kong arrival (minimum 3 nights + 1 night for Macau)
Shenzhen (1 night – immigration, day and night city visit)
Guangzhou (2 nights – 2 days of sightseeing)
Yangshuo (3 nights – 2 full days)
Passing through Guilin (0 nights – 1 day)
Longsheng or Longji Rice Terraces Green (2 nights)
Sanjiang (1 night)
Kunming (1 night)
Dali (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Lijiang (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Shangri-La (1 night)
Chengdu (2 nights – 1 full day for Buddha)
Zhangjiajie (4 nights – 4 days)
Chongqing (2 nights)
I have an efficient travel style (I wake up very early and generally move quickly).
I don’t want to see the Stone Forest in Kunming because it looks too much like the Tsingy in Madagascar.
What do you think?
Thanks for any kind of feedback.
I’m starting to think about a trip to Japan, though I haven’t yet decided on the exact duration or itinerary, and I have a few questions for those who know the country well or have traveled there recently.
First, about getting around: what do you think are the most economical and reliable ways to travel across Japan and move between cities? I’m thinking of trains, overnight buses, domestic flights, regional passes, etc. I’m not necessarily looking for the fastest option, but rather a good balance between cost, simplicity, and reliability.
I also have a question about the return ticket. Since I don’t yet know how long I’ll stay in Japan—or even if I’ll return directly to France (I might continue to another Asian country)—is it mandatory to have a return or exit ticket before entering Japan? Would a ticket to another Asian country suffice?
Regarding accommodation, I usually prefer staying in youth hostels rather than hotels. Are hostels easy to find all over Japan, including outside Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka? And what’s the average budget per night for something clean and well-located?
Finally, I’d like to get an idea of the overall budget for the trip. Is Japan still relatively affordable when traveling simply, or do expenses add up quickly? I’m mainly thinking about:
transportation between cities;
local transportation;
youth hostels;
food;
potential domestic flights.
My plan is to travel fairly freely, without necessarily booking everything in advance, so I can adjust my itinerary or stay longer in places I like.
If anyone has traveled this way in Japan, I’d love to hear about your experiences, tips, and maybe an idea of the daily budget to expect.
Hi everyone,
So, big departure for me next week—I can’t wait! +++
Here’s my itinerary; feel free to leave your comments. Just to let you know, skipping Jiuzhaigou was a choice on our part :/. And if you have any updated prices, since the ones I noted are from the internet and might not be current.
-21: Arrival at 16:25 in Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-22: Beijing Ming Tombs (20¥)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-23: Beijing
°Night train to Xi’an
-24: Xi’an -Terracotta Army (45¥ Steven, 90¥ me)
-Night market in the Muslim Quarter
°Xi’an Guoha Hotel Apartment
-25: Xi’an -Big Wild Goose Pagoda (31¥)
°Xi’an Guoha Hotel Apartment
-26: Xi’an -City Walls (20¥ Steven, 40¥ me)
°Night train to Chengdu
-27: Chengdu -Giant Panda Research Base (58¥)
°Hanting Hotel Chengdu Huayang Branch
-28: Chengdu -Qingyang Taoist Palace (5¥)
°Hanting Hotel Chengdu Huayang Branch
-29: Departure for Mount Emei
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-30: Mount Emei -Wannian Temple (180¥ me, 90¥ Steven)
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-31: Mount Emei
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-1: Departure for Leshan
°Le Cheng Hotel
-2: Leshan -Leshan Giant Buddha (50¥ by boat)
°Le Cheng Hotel
-3: Departure for Chongqing
°Hanting Hotel Chongqing Chengjiaping Branch
-4: Departure for Dazu -Dazu Rock Carvings (80¥)
°Kaka Theme Apartment
-5: Departure for Chongqing
°Letu Hostel
-6: Chongqing -Eling Park
-Ancient town of Ciqikou
°Letu Hostel
-7: Chongqing -Hongyadong shopping street
°Letu Hostel
-8: Chongqing
°Night train to Zhengzhou
-9: Zhengzhou -Shaolin Temple (130¥)
°Love Home Apartment
-10: Zhengzhou -Mount Song Shan
°Night train to Beijing
-11: Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-12: Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-13: Beijing -Great Wall of China (64¥ with bus)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-14: Beijing Summer Palace (40-50¥)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-15: Beijing -Forbidden City (80¥ with audio guide)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-16: Beijing
I’m currently in the process of booking my hotels.
I have a question about these two apps. I’m planning to use trips.com to book my trains (if I understood correctly, that’s the best way to do it).
Is there any advantage to booking hotels with trips.com, or can I keep using Booking? (I’m used to the interface.) My hidden question is whether it’ll work smoothly when I’m there (for new bookings or retrieving the ones I’ve already made).
I’m currently planning a trip to Japan with my two kids.
Before going any further, my main question is about the budget. While flights are pretty straightforward—just compare prices—when it comes to daily expenses, I have no idea what to expect.
We’re thinking of traveling between mid-July (around the 19th, give or take 2-3 days) and mid-August (returning by August 20th at the latest).
Duration: 15 days (though we could stretch it by 2-3 days if it makes sense price-wise).
Family of 4, including two kids aged 9 and 12.
Before we had kids, we used to travel pretty "rough" and book things on the spot (we often took basic flights), but this time, it might be trickier. That said, we’re not looking for luxury—just somewhere decent to sleep and shower so we can save money for as many activities and sightseeing as possible.
For those who’ve recently had a family trip like this or are familiar with Japan, I’d love any advice—especially what a reasonable daily budget might look like (or at least the absolute minimum to make the trip feasible).
Thanks in advance!
P.S.: I’ll admit I struggled a bit with the categories, so if this post needs to be moved, no problem! ;-)
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
Hi there,
I’m planning my trip for May. Here’s my itinerary for 4.5 days in Seoul:
May 5: afternoon at Mangwon Market, Mangridan-gil, Han River
May 6: Gyeongbokgung, Tongin Market & Seochon, Bukchon, Insadong, Jogyesa Temple, and Ikseon-dong
May 7: Namdaemun Market, Deoksugung Palace, stroll along Cheonggyecheon, Seoullo 7017, Hongdae
May 8:Changdeokgung + Changgyeonggung, Gwangjang Market, Jongmyo Shrine, Jongno Boulevard for the big parade
May 9:Morning in Gangnam, Bongeunsa, Namsangol Hanok Village, N Seoul Tower Plaza
What do you think of this itinerary? Is there anything I should add, remove, or swap out? I tried to keep travel time to a minimum, but I might be missing something. I’d love to hear all your thoughts—thanks!
Philippe
According to my calculations, I’ll be in Zhangjiajie on Monday, November 16th. I adjusted my itinerary to avoid the weekend.
I’m wondering:
1- Do I need to book the park entrance in advance (like, is there a visitor limit?)
2- I plan to take the elevator and maybe a cable car (I’ll walk the rest—I’m in good shape). Should I book those too, or can I sort it out when I arrive?
3- On Wednesday, November 18th, I’m aiming for Tianmen Mountain. Same question—do I need to reserve? I read it’s under construction right now. And apparently, it’s line C.
3 bis - Also, is it possible to go all the way to the top by bus only, without the cable car, and finish on foot?
Hi everyone, I’m preparing for a one-month trip in October. I’m traveling solo and would love to explore the countryside, but I’m also wondering if there are any themed urban hikes or walks. In Japan, I did some themed city tours, especially by bike.
Thanks for any tips you can share!
Marie
Hi,
Our trip is planned for 20 days in Japan next April. We have a free subscription that would allow us to use 35 GB (I’m a bit confused), but we also need to be able to make phone calls with a French couple traveling with us for a few days, and that seems impossible due to cost... Any solutions for using GPS while keeping those 35 GB? Used to traveling in Southeast Asia, we usually rely on local SIM cards. Is it easy to do the same in Japan?
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Tialou
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
Hi,
I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed).
I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years.
Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.?
I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku.
Thanks.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
