Original post
We just spent three weeks in Yunnan.
I’ve started writing up a travel journal about the trip.
Three weeks in Yunnan in October 2025
by Jeeaan
Translated into English.
Oh no... a travel journal on VF or on MyAtlas?
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Car rental in China Three weeks in Yunnan in October China yunnan Nov 6 4 hours ago
jbf 5 d Our first discovery of China was back in 1999, so that was already 26 years ago. We thoroughly scoured travel forums to prepare for these three weeks. We found many answers to our questions there. We also found the references for the Ciel Chine agency, with whom we shared our expectations. We agreed on a small-group trip (10 people) followed by a two-person extension with a driver. The Ciel Chine team was very efficient and available both during the preparation of our trip and during the trip itself. No downsides: a guide, Sébastien, who was very professional and helpful, managing his group like a father figure—always patient, professional, and full of humor. The drivers were cautious, punctual, and helpful. And the accommodations were high-quality, either charming stays or very comfortable hotels. The agency took care of purchasing our flight tickets and train tickets. The agency had also bought us an e-SIM card in Hong Kong, very useful and flawless.
And so, we landed in Kunming after a short layover in Guangzhou. Sébastien was waiting for us at the airport exit. Off to the Cachet Boutique Hotel. There, we met the 8 people who would share this beautiful adventure with us. Like us, it was their first time choosing to travel in a group, and like us, they hoped they wouldn’t regret it. And like us, they would be delighted with this beautiful Chinese interlude.
First visit: the Yuantong Buddhist Temple, one of the most important Buddhist temples in Yunnan.
Then, to enjoy Kunming, nicknamed the "City of Eternal Spring" thanks to its mild and pleasant climate year-round, we set off to explore the Emerald Lake Park. Locals come here to stroll, sing, dance, or paint. It’s a true haven of peace.
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed taking a little moment to rest. Outside our window, young people were practicing table tennis, a sport the Chinese excel in.
And after a good night’s rest, we wake up in CHINA...
A delicious breakfast was offered in the form of a varied buffet. Around 8 AM, our minibus took us to discover the famous Stone Forest, classified by UNESCO as an exceptional natural heritage site. But we weren’t the only ones there. It’s the most visited site in Yunnan. These are karst rocks rising over an area of 60 km². 99% of the visitors are Chinese. And as everywhere we’ll go, you have to present your passport to access the site. The passport will also be necessary to leave the site. You always need to have your passport on hand... And you have to take a shuttle...
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profile, messages, bookmarks and preferences Do you want to install VoyageForum.com on this device? China Guide Must-sees Map Photos Book your trip Forum China Plan your trip to China with our partners
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Car rental in China Three weeks in Yunnan in October China yunnan Nov 6 4 hours ago
jbf 5 d Our first discovery of China was back in 1999, so that was already 26 years ago. We thoroughly scoured travel forums to prepare for these three weeks. We found many answers to our questions there. We also found the references for the Ciel Chine agency, with whom we shared our expectations. We agreed on a small-group trip (10 people) followed by a two-person extension with a driver. The Ciel Chine team was very efficient and available both during the preparation of our trip and during the trip itself. No downsides: a guide, Sébastien, who was very professional and helpful, managing his group like a father figure—always patient, professional, and full of humor. The drivers were cautious, punctual, and helpful. And the accommodations were high-quality, either charming stays or very comfortable hotels. The agency took care of purchasing our flight tickets and train tickets. The agency had also bought us an e-SIM card in Hong Kong, very useful and flawless.
And so, we landed in Kunming after a short layover in Guangzhou. Sébastien was waiting for us at the airport exit. Off to the Cachet Boutique Hotel. There, we met the 8 people who would share this beautiful adventure with us. Like us, it was their first time choosing to travel in a group, and like us, they hoped they wouldn’t regret it. And like us, they would be delighted with this beautiful Chinese interlude.
First visit: the Yuantong Buddhist Temple, one of the most important Buddhist temples in Yunnan.
Then, to enjoy Kunming, nicknamed the "City of Eternal Spring" thanks to its mild and pleasant climate year-round, we set off to explore the Emerald Lake Park. Locals come here to stroll, sing, dance, or paint. It’s a true haven of peace.
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed taking a little moment to rest. Outside our window, young people were practicing table tennis, a sport the Chinese excel in.
And after a good night’s rest, we wake up in CHINA...
A delicious breakfast was offered in the form of a varied buffet. Around 8 AM, our minibus took us to discover the famous Stone Forest, classified by UNESCO as an exceptional natural heritage site. But we weren’t the only ones there. It’s the most visited site in Yunnan. These are karst rocks rising over an area of 60 km². 99% of the visitors are Chinese. And as everywhere we’ll go, you have to present your passport to access the site. The passport will also be necessary to leave the site. You always need to have your passport on hand... And you have to take a shuttle...
And that's what we're doing.
We follow the crowd heading toward the stone forest.
The first part, the Major Stone Forest, is the most visited because it's the quickest to explore. And the Chinese are in a hurry... Each group is led by a guide, often in traditional costume, but always with a microphone in hand. It creates a real cacophony. It's crazy!
Fortunately, as soon as you get closer to the wilder spots, you're practically alone.
It's a fantastic landscape created by erosion. Water and wind have sculpted thousands of limestone pillars. And everyone can let their imagination run wild while admiring all these shapes.
In the afternoon, we'll continue our journey to Yuanyang. Along the way, near the Red River, we stop to buy some fruit.
And by 7 PM, we're in Yuanyang, a village nestled in the heart of the Yunnan mountains. Yuanyang is home to China's largest rice terraces. It's a masterpiece patiently shaped by the Hani people's agricultural tradition over several centuries. It's magnificent!
We follow the crowd heading toward the stone forest.The first part, the Major Stone Forest, is the most visited because it's the quickest to explore. And the Chinese are in a hurry... Each group is led by a guide, often in traditional costume, but always with a microphone in hand. It creates a real cacophony. It's crazy!
Fortunately, as soon as you get closer to the wilder spots, you're practically alone.It's a fantastic landscape created by erosion. Water and wind have sculpted thousands of limestone pillars. And everyone can let their imagination run wild while admiring all these shapes.
In the afternoon, we'll continue our journey to Yuanyang. Along the way, near the Red River, we stop to buy some fruit.
And by 7 PM, we're in Yuanyang, a village nestled in the heart of the Yunnan mountains. Yuanyang is home to China's largest rice terraces. It's a masterpiece patiently shaped by the Hani people's agricultural tradition over several centuries. It's magnificent!
We’re staying at Huawowo Inn, a charming little hotel right above the rice terraces.
Our room opens wide onto the rice terraces. It’s stunning.
Dinner’s gonna be amazing. Dried buffalo, peanut veggies, spicy chicken, Chinese cabbage, and... rice.
The next morning, we’re up at 6 a.m. It’s 23°C in the room, but outside it must be chillier because there’s a lot of condensation on the windows. Heavy fogging... But no fog today. That’s lucky since apparently, fog rolls in 300 days a year. So we head up to the terrace to enjoy the incredible view of all these rice terraces. It’s breathtaking!
Then we go down for a typical Chinese breakfast.
So many choices...
With our stomachs full, we set off hiking through the rice terraces and picturesque little villages. It’s absolutely stunning. But it goes up and down, only to climb back up again. We’re in the mountains.
Sébastien, our guide, explains that rice sells for 3 yuan per kilo—it’s next to nothing.
We pass through the lovely village of Azheke, with its thatched-roof houses.
We walk alongside beautiful rice terraces.
Women are active in every sector—agriculture, trade, construction, transportation...
Sébastien, our guide, explains that rice sells for 3 yuan per kilo—it’s next to nothing.
We pass through the lovely village of Azheke, with its thatched-roof houses.
We walk alongside beautiful rice terraces.
Women are active in every sector—agriculture, trade, construction, transportation...
The next day, we're heading to a local market that’ll give us a glimpse into the traditions and crafts of the ethnic minorities. We’re gonna be amazed.
Two different ethnic groups live in this region: the Hani and the Xi. China has around fifty ethnic groups, with 25 in Yunnan alone.
Here, you can tell them apart by the women’s costumes—some are super colorful, while others are adorned with silver pieces. It’s absolutely stunning....
This’ll be our chance to try grilled tofu dipped in soy sauce for extra flavor.
The tobacco vendor is surrounded by water pipe smokers waiting for their wives to finish shopping.
We’re in awe of the handmade egg boxes.
And the friendly little street restaurants.
A really enjoyable and discovery-filled morning.
This’ll be our chance to try grilled tofu dipped in soy sauce for extra flavor.The tobacco vendor is surrounded by water pipe smokers waiting for their wives to finish shopping.
We’re in awe of the handmade egg boxes.
And the friendly little street restaurants.
A really enjoyable and discovery-filled morning.The women carrying their babies on their backs wear stunning outfits.
We’re in awe of the handmade egg containers.
Noodle soup at the little market restaurant.
We continue our journey and arrive in Jianshui in the middle of the afternoon. First, we head to the old West Gate district to see the ancient well where locals come to collect pure water.
Small traditional tofu workshop.
We stroll through the neighborhood before heading back to our hotel, the Hanlinyuan—a charming little place in the heart of the old town. Traditional architecture, but with great comfort and a lovely flower garden. After a short break, we set off to explore the Confucius Temple, the second-largest Confucius temple in China.... It’s set in a large garden, facing a beautiful lake.
We’re in awe of the handmade egg containers.
Noodle soup at the little market restaurant.
We continue our journey and arrive in Jianshui in the middle of the afternoon. First, we head to the old West Gate district to see the ancient well where locals come to collect pure water.
Small traditional tofu workshop.We stroll through the neighborhood before heading back to our hotel, the Hanlinyuan—a charming little place in the heart of the old town. Traditional architecture, but with great comfort and a lovely flower garden. After a short break, we set off to explore the Confucius Temple, the second-largest Confucius temple in China.... It’s set in a large garden, facing a beautiful lake.
Outside, people are playing cards.
Then we cross the city to visit the Zhu Family Garden. It’s the most beautiful garden and architectural complex in Jianshui. It was built in the early 20th century by a wealthy merchant. It’s a massive garden—and a massive house.
We end the day at the East Gate before checking out an exhibition about a French consul who was in charge of supervising the construction of the railway line.
And on the way back, we take the time to look at the manhole covers... Pretty cool...
Then we cross the city to visit the Zhu Family Garden. It’s the most beautiful garden and architectural complex in Jianshui. It was built in the early 20th century by a wealthy merchant. It’s a massive garden—and a massive house.
We end the day at the East Gate before checking out an exhibition about a French consul who was in charge of supervising the construction of the railway line.
And on the way back, we take the time to look at the manhole covers... Pretty cool...
The next morning, the day starts with an excellent breakfast—the dining room and buffet are up to the hotel’s standards. In other words, really amazing!
At 8:30 AM, we’re on our way to the Double Dragon Bridge, which has 17 arches and used to span two rivers. It allowed farmers and merchants to travel and sell their goods. Everything was controlled, and taxes were paid at the office located in the center of the bridge.
A few kilometers later, we stop again to see a second bridge, more modest but still very beautiful.
Then we make a stop in the village of Tuanshan. The entrance to the village is paid, but like most sites, it’s free for those over 70. Its traditional houses date back to the Qing Dynasty. It’s a wealthy village thanks to the tin trade. We visit the Zhang family’s house and garden.
Tourist entertainment at the entrance.
And back to Kunming. We see the many 40-story towers again... gigantic.
We check into the Cachet Boutique Hotel. We know it well—it feels a bit like home...
At 8:30 AM, we’re on our way to the Double Dragon Bridge, which has 17 arches and used to span two rivers. It allowed farmers and merchants to travel and sell their goods. Everything was controlled, and taxes were paid at the office located in the center of the bridge.
A few kilometers later, we stop again to see a second bridge, more modest but still very beautiful.
Then we make a stop in the village of Tuanshan. The entrance to the village is paid, but like most sites, it’s free for those over 70. Its traditional houses date back to the Qing Dynasty. It’s a wealthy village thanks to the tin trade. We visit the Zhang family’s house and garden.
Tourist entertainment at the entrance.And back to Kunming. We see the many 40-story towers again... gigantic.
We check into the Cachet Boutique Hotel. We know it well—it feels a bit like home...
Large, very pleasant room.After a short break, we're off to see the flower, cat, dog, and fish market... it's in the oldest district of the city. You can still find old wooden houses there. In fact, we're meeting up in one of these traditional houses before strolling through the market.
The dinner table is already set.
The flower stalls are extraordinary and plentiful.
You also come across cats and puppies, dressed or not... We were surprised to see the change since our last trip to China. In the past, dogs and cats were sold at the market to be eaten. But today, they’re pampered pets—thank goodness!
Tons of aquariums and colorful fish.
And street restaurants offering dishes that are as varied as they are surprising.
There’s something for every taste.
And in the main square, locals gather for the evening dance. It’s really nice.
We head to the restaurant. On the menu: grilled pork, crispy duck, beef with vegetables, seaweed and taro, sweet and sour fish... A great day that ends perfectly.
The next day starts with a visit to Kunming’s municipal museum.
The first room is dedicated to excavations and bronze artifacts found in the area around the city.
In the next room, documents and photos about the war against Japan are on display. American pilots had come to help the Chinese. They were called the Flying Tigers because on their planes they had painted shark faces, which the Chinese had mistaken for tigers.
And in the last rooms, we got to see beautiful paper paintings, as well as stunning portraits of women and men from the region.
After that, we head to the train station. We’ve got a train at 12:58, but you need to arrive at least an hour before departure—almost like at the airport. Luggage is scanned, passports are checked thoroughly, and we grab a little picnic in the waiting room.
It takes us two hours to reach Dali at 195 km/h. Comfortable train.
In Dali, our driver is waiting and takes us straight to the north gate of the old town. Our hotel, the Yanqing Shanju Inn, is right near the north gate.
The old town is surrounded by walls and has four entrances. It has a history of over 1,200 years—it’s incredible.
The old houses are gorgeous, but it’s *very* touristy and *very* commercial.
In the next room, documents and photos about the war against Japan are on display. American pilots had come to help the Chinese. They were called the Flying Tigers because on their planes they had painted shark faces, which the Chinese had mistaken for tigers.
And in the last rooms, we got to see beautiful paper paintings, as well as stunning portraits of women and men from the region.
After that, we head to the train station. We’ve got a train at 12:58, but you need to arrive at least an hour before departure—almost like at the airport. Luggage is scanned, passports are checked thoroughly, and we grab a little picnic in the waiting room.
It takes us two hours to reach Dali at 195 km/h. Comfortable train.In Dali, our driver is waiting and takes us straight to the north gate of the old town. Our hotel, the Yanqing Shanju Inn, is right near the north gate.
The old town is surrounded by walls and has four entrances. It has a history of over 1,200 years—it’s incredible.
The old houses are gorgeous, but it’s *very* touristy and *very* commercial.
The Chinese are big fans of all these little monsters that are supposed to protect them from evil spirits.
Many shops in the city sell rose-based products—rose water and rose jam cakes are Dali’s specialty.You’ll also find lovely tea shops that offer tea tastings. Here, tea is sold like fine French vineyard wines.
Tea is sold in cakes.
During our walk, we’ll visit a Catholic church founded by missionaries from Bétharram.
The next morning before leaving the hotel, we have fun photographing the legs of the side table and the armchair. They’re wearing cute little baby booties—probably to avoid disturbing the guests in the room below or to protect the parquet flooring. Whatever the reason, it’s a nice touch.
We head toward Weishan. But on the way out of town, we stop to see the fieldwork. Mostly women are working, and there are a lot of them since the labor is mostly done by hand.
Their means of transportation are parked along the road.
We continue our journey to the Muslim village of Donglianhua, a village located on the ancient Tea-Horse Road, where tea was once traded for horses used in warfare. We stop at the Chinese mosque.
Then we visit a beautiful traditional house—wooden, two-story, built around an inner courtyard.
We’re surprised by the bedroom, where we notice two chairs near the bed, reserved for servants who spent the night sitting on them. And if the lady of the house wasn’t available for her husband, the servant would take her place...
We continue our route to Weishan. A gorgeous little town with lovely cobblestone streets lined with pretty houses and small shops.
We head toward Weishan. But on the way out of town, we stop to see the fieldwork. Mostly women are working, and there are a lot of them since the labor is mostly done by hand.
Their means of transportation are parked along the road.
We continue our journey to the Muslim village of Donglianhua, a village located on the ancient Tea-Horse Road, where tea was once traded for horses used in warfare. We stop at the Chinese mosque.
Then we visit a beautiful traditional house—wooden, two-story, built around an inner courtyard.
We’re surprised by the bedroom, where we notice two chairs near the bed, reserved for servants who spent the night sitting on them. And if the lady of the house wasn’t available for her husband, the servant would take her place...We continue our route to Weishan. A gorgeous little town with lovely cobblestone streets lined with pretty houses and small shops.
After this Muslim village, we continue our journey to Weishan. A gorgeous little town with beautiful paved streets lined with charming houses and small shops.
We come across numerous statues depicting scenes of daily life at every street corner.
Magnificent gates leading to the old town.
A handmade noodle factory with impressively long noodles.
Locals playing cards in the street, and others doing business.
And charming, whimsical strollers.
We come across numerous statues depicting scenes of daily life at every street corner.
Magnificent gates leading to the old town.
A handmade noodle factory with impressively long noodles.
Locals playing cards in the street, and others doing business.
And charming, whimsical strollers.
We have lunch in town and then set off to explore the Taoist mountain of Weibaoshan. It’s one of China’s 13 sacred mountains and is home to 25 Buddhist or Taoist sanctuaries. We’ll visit six of them—some completely traditional, others more innovative.
Then we head back to Dali. Rain catches us on the way, and tonight at dinner, we’re trying the famous "crossing-the-bridge noodles." It’s quite the ceremony—vegetables and meats are brought out on platters, along with a large bowl of boiling broth. The ingredients are dipped into the broth, left to cook for about 2 minutes, and then it’s time to dig in. It’s delicious!
When we leave the restaurant, it’s still raining. We buy two umbrellas....
Then we head back to Dali. Rain catches us on the way, and tonight at dinner, we’re trying the famous "crossing-the-bridge noodles." It’s quite the ceremony—vegetables and meats are brought out on platters, along with a large bowl of boiling broth. The ingredients are dipped into the broth, left to cook for about 2 minutes, and then it’s time to dig in. It’s delicious!
When we leave the restaurant, it’s still raining. We buy two umbrellas....
The next day at 8:30 AM, we're ready to leave for Shaxi. It's still raining—it poured all night. A real downpour! The Chinese do everything big here... No drizzle in sight...
So we'll do like the Chinese and gear up. Rain ponchos, shoe covers, and umbrellas.
But we won’t get to enjoy our purchases for long because the sun comes back very quickly...
The first stop this morning is a batik factory. The tie-dye technique involves countless tiny knots made following patterns drawn on the fabric. It’s incredibly meticulous. You wonder how it’s even possible to make all those knots and achieve the desired design. It’s truly an art form—absolutely stunning!
The workers aren’t all young, but they’re very dedicated. The result is gorgeous.
Next, we head to Shibaoshan Mountain to discover an exceptional collection of rock carvings. These masterpieces date from the 9th to the 14th century and depict scenes from daily life and Buddhist deities.
An extraordinary visit.
But we won’t get to enjoy our purchases for long because the sun comes back very quickly...The first stop this morning is a batik factory. The tie-dye technique involves countless tiny knots made following patterns drawn on the fabric. It’s incredibly meticulous. You wonder how it’s even possible to make all those knots and achieve the desired design. It’s truly an art form—absolutely stunning!
The workers aren’t all young, but they’re very dedicated. The result is gorgeous.
Next, we head to Shibaoshan Mountain to discover an exceptional collection of rock carvings. These masterpieces date from the 9th to the 14th century and depict scenes from daily life and Buddhist deities.
An extraordinary visit.
Then we visit the Baoxiang Temple, perched on a cliff. Many pavilions cling to the cliffside. The stairs to get there are quite long, but it’s absolutely stunning.
View from above.
The monkeys keep a close eye on us.
Some fun representations.
Next, we head to Shaxi, a town in the plains at 2,200 meters altitude. It’s a really pretty little town on the Tea Horse Road, with beautiful wooden houses.
And a gorgeous old theater in the central square.
View from above.
The monkeys keep a close eye on us.
Some fun representations.
Next, we head to Shaxi, a town in the plains at 2,200 meters altitude. It’s a really pretty little town on the Tea Horse Road, with beautiful wooden houses.
And a gorgeous old theater in the central square.
The theater.After our city walk, we’ll take a little stroll along the river.
We’re staying at the Shaxi Aoding Courtyard Hotel. It’s really nice, well located, and we have a large, comfortable room.
After a good breakfast served at the table, we set off for Tiger Leaping Gorge.
It’s the Yangtze River (the "little crocodile") rushing through the gorge. The waters are tumultuous, and the noise is impressive. The site’s name comes from a legend about a tiger being chased by a hunter and leaping across the river in a single bound. But from the parking lot, you have to take a staircase with 650 steps to reach the riverbank. That means climbing back up those 650 steps to return to the parking lot. We opted for the escalator... Even though there are still a few steps at the end, it’s much faster and way less tiring.
On our way to the guesthouse where we’ll be spending the night. It’s Summer's Guesthouse in the village of Walnut Grove, above the Yangtze River. And we’re off to explore the area... on foot.
In the evening, we’re enjoying our terrace overlooking the Yangtze.
The next day, we head back up to the parking lot to meet our vehicle. The luggage is picked up by a tricycle cart.
Then we’re off to Baishuitai to see the fascinating white terraces. These natural formations are the result of water springs gushing from the Haba Mountains, which over centuries have transformed into stunning cascading white marble terraces flowing down into the valley.
In the evening, we’re enjoying our terrace overlooking the Yangtze.
The next day, we head back up to the parking lot to meet our vehicle. The luggage is picked up by a tricycle cart.
Then we’re off to Baishuitai to see the fascinating white terraces. These natural formations are the result of water springs gushing from the Haba Mountains, which over centuries have transformed into stunning cascading white marble terraces flowing down into the valley.
We continue our journey toward Shangri-La.
Along the way, we stop in the Tibetan village of Ringha to see its ancient 700-year-old monastery. Locals come here to pray for health, heal illnesses, and bless children. They hang prayer flags that dance in the wind around the monastery.
But all this beauty comes at a price... The stairs are endless....
Further on, we pass through a village and are surprised to see drying racks standing just about everywhere—in farmyards or out in the meadows.
We see our first yaks.
Our first butcher shops selling yak meat—and its genitalia.
But all this beauty comes at a price... The stairs are endless....
Further on, we pass through a village and are surprised to see drying racks standing just about everywhere—in farmyards or out in the meadows.
We see our first yaks.
Our first butcher shops selling yak meat—and its genitalia.
Hi there,
Don’t you work in partnership with MyAtlas?
@Jeaaan Thanks for sharing—because of you, I’m reliving my trip! We got back from China two weeks ago. I wrote a travel journal on "MyAtlas"...
Don’t you work in partnership with MyAtlas?
@Jeaaan Thanks for sharing—because of you, I’m reliving my trip! We got back from China two weeks ago. I wrote a travel journal on "MyAtlas"...
« Voyager rend modeste. Vous voyez quelle petite place vous occupez dans le monde. » - Gustave Flaubert
https://www.myatlas.com/anneclaire95
Arrived in Shangri-La, at 3,300 meters above sea level.
Before exploring the city, we checked into our room at the Khimstang Hotel, well located near the heart of the city but in a quiet area.
Strolled through the old town and hiked up to Guishan Temple and its prayer wheel, the largest in the world.
Very lively streets.
Daily dances in the main square.
And for dinner, it’ll be yak fondue.
Strolled through the old town and hiked up to Guishan Temple and its prayer wheel, the largest in the world.
Very lively streets.
Daily dances in the main square.
And for dinner, it’ll be yak fondue.
We spent an excellent night in our large, well-heated room. We didn’t expect to have heating, but it’s a really nice plus.
At 9 AM, we hit the road to Benzilan. As soon as we left the city, we stopped to watch the yaks—the herds of yaks. There are so many of them. Completely free. No fences. These massive animals even wander onto the road.
It’s impressive...
We’re also amazed by the size of the Tibetan houses. They’re enormous.
Next, we head to Napahai Lake. It’s overflowed into the meadows due to recent rains. The hay dryers are standing in water, and so are the prayer flags.
Chinese tourists are getting their photos taken on the back of a white yak—apparently, it brings good luck.
Our next stop is at the border of Yunnan and Sichuan, where we check out the footbridge over the Yangtze River. This bridge allowed Mao’s troops to cross the river during the 12,000-kilometer Long March between 1935 and 1936.
At 9 AM, we hit the road to Benzilan. As soon as we left the city, we stopped to watch the yaks—the herds of yaks. There are so many of them. Completely free. No fences. These massive animals even wander onto the road.
It’s impressive...We’re also amazed by the size of the Tibetan houses. They’re enormous.
Next, we head to Napahai Lake. It’s overflowed into the meadows due to recent rains. The hay dryers are standing in water, and so are the prayer flags.
Chinese tourists are getting their photos taken on the back of a white yak—apparently, it brings good luck.Our next stop is at the border of Yunnan and Sichuan, where we check out the footbridge over the Yangtze River. This bridge allowed Mao’s troops to cross the river during the 12,000-kilometer Long March between 1935 and 1936.
We’re having lunch at a roadside restaurant. We’re experiencing the shared restrooms.
A little later, we stop to see a spectacular bend in the Yangtze River, forming a perfect horseshoe around a pyramid-shaped rocky peak. It’s really beautiful.
When we arrive in Benzilan, we’re surprised to learn it’s a ceremony day at the monastery—the last day of rituals organized by the monks to bring health and good harvests for everyone. On this final day, the monks dress up in masks and dance for the villagers.
For us, the spectacle is everywhere—on the spectator side, only Tibetans, and on stage, it’s colorful and impressive. But as foreigners, we’re not allowed to take photos, so we ask some Tibetan spectators to take some for us. No problem.
A little later, we stop to see a spectacular bend in the Yangtze River, forming a perfect horseshoe around a pyramid-shaped rocky peak. It’s really beautiful.
When we arrive in Benzilan, we’re surprised to learn it’s a ceremony day at the monastery—the last day of rituals organized by the monks to bring health and good harvests for everyone. On this final day, the monks dress up in masks and dance for the villagers.
For us, the spectacle is everywhere—on the spectator side, only Tibetans, and on stage, it’s colorful and impressive. But as foreigners, we’re not allowed to take photos, so we ask some Tibetan spectators to take some for us. No problem.
The next day, at 8:30 AM, we leave Shangri-La to head to Lijiang.
We stop to visit the Songzanlin Monastery, established in 1679 during the reign of the 5th Dalai Lama. This monastery is nicknamed the "Little Potala." It's the largest lamasery still in operation—a living place that still houses 600 monks.
We visit the three main temples. We go up to the terrace of the central temple.
A monk explains the long journey toward reincarnation, symbolized by the black elephant that turns white.
Here again, there are plenty of stairs. Visitors are numerous too, but mostly—or even exclusively—Asian.
We visit the three main temples. We go up to the terrace of the central temple.
A monk explains the long journey toward reincarnation, symbolized by the black elephant that turns white.
Here again, there are plenty of stairs. Visitors are numerous too, but mostly—or even exclusively—Asian.
When arriving in Lijiang, we head straight to the Dongba Museum. It’s dedicated to the Dongba culture of the Naxi people.
The 1,400 characters and symbols of the Dongba script are on display there. These are ideograms still in use today.
The museum is located right across from the entrance to Black Dragon Pool Park. You could use cute little vehicles to get around, but we’ll explore it on foot.
Here, people come to stroll, dance, sing, make music, or paint.
It’s charming, floral, and zen.
Everyone stops to capture the moment and take the iconic photo of the lake, bridge, and temple with the snowy (or not) mountain backdrop. It’s the signature shot of Yunnan.
The museum is located right across from the entrance to Black Dragon Pool Park. You could use cute little vehicles to get around, but we’ll explore it on foot.
Here, people come to stroll, dance, sing, make music, or paint.
It’s charming, floral, and zen.
Everyone stops to capture the moment and take the iconic photo of the lake, bridge, and temple with the snowy (or not) mountain backdrop. It’s the signature shot of Yunnan.
Hi Jean,
You used an agency, but do you think it's possible to manage without one, or would it be too complicated? I’m not sure if you met any travelers who did everything without an agency?
I’ve read other travel journals from people who used an agency, so I’m wondering....
You used an agency, but do you think it's possible to manage without one, or would it be too complicated? I’m not sure if you met any travelers who did everything without an agency?
I’ve read other travel journals from people who used an agency, so I’m wondering....
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Everything is doable...
As far as we're concerned, we didn't meet any Westerners traveling completely independently. It can be done. Travel journals prove it.
But the challenge is the language barrier. Very few Chinese people speak English.
We met some French travelers who had a driver—non-French-speaking, of course.
That’s actually what we did for the last week.
We used translators on our phones, but I found it wasn’t enough. Personally, I need to communicate more than that; I need to learn more than that.
The ideal would be to travel with a driver and have a French-speaking guide at the most interesting sites. That’s what we had in Uzbekistan. It was easier to organize because there were fewer cultural sites, though they were extremely interesting. But in China, there are many cities worth visiting. Having a guide is a plus, especially when they’re friendly...
We’re not used to traveling with an agency, and we hesitated about going in a group, which was also the case for the other people traveling with us. But if we had to do it again, we’d do it without hesitation. Maybe we’re getting a little older too... And we were lucky to have a very efficient agency, a great guide, and a group that worked really well together.
That’s how I feel about it.
Hoping this answers your questions...
Yes, that answers my questions perfectly. I suspected the issue was the language barrier.
Thanks!
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Thanks again for this travel journal that takes me right back to my recent trip. The places in the photos feel so familiar...
I’m also really surprised there aren’t more reactions from other travelers, since so many complain that VF is much less active than it used to be.
Regarding traveling in China: As I explain in my blog and on VF, it’s completely possible to travel in China without an agency. It really depends on the itinerary you have in mind. We went to Gansu with a detour to the Badain Jaran Desert without an agency and were pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to organize everything on the spot. Of course, I’d done a lot of prep work beforehand. Same thing in Hunan. For the Yunnan part, we used Ciel Yunnan to book a car with a driver for us. No guide, though. This "option" let us optimize our route. We’re planning a trip to western Sichuan. We’ll probably go for the same mode of transport. Almost 20 years ago, I traveled alone with my daughter in China, especially in eastern Sichuan. Everything was done without an agency back then, too, but those were more touristy routes.
Regarding traveling in China: As I explain in my blog and on VF, it’s completely possible to travel in China without an agency. It really depends on the itinerary you have in mind. We went to Gansu with a detour to the Badain Jaran Desert without an agency and were pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to organize everything on the spot. Of course, I’d done a lot of prep work beforehand. Same thing in Hunan. For the Yunnan part, we used Ciel Yunnan to book a car with a driver for us. No guide, though. This "option" let us optimize our route. We’re planning a trip to western Sichuan. We’ll probably go for the same mode of transport. Almost 20 years ago, I traveled alone with my daughter in China, especially in eastern Sichuan. Everything was done without an agency back then, too, but those were more touristy routes.
« Voyager rend modeste. Vous voyez quelle petite place vous occupez dans le monde. » - Gustave Flaubert
https://www.myatlas.com/anneclaire95
After this lovely walk, we head to the town of Shuhe, at the gates of Lijiang. Our vehicle drops us off at the entrance to the old town, which isn’t accessible by car. Our luggage is immediately picked up and taken to our hotel.
Our hotel is right in the heart of the ancient city but quiet, with a large adjoining vegetable garden.
It’s The Bivou hotel—very modern and comfortable. We’re welcomed with tea, homemade gingerbread, and clementines.
We settle into our room—super comfortable and gorgeous.
And we don’t waste any time heading out to explore the old town’s streets. It’s charming.
Back at the hotel, which has a VPN, we can receive and open photos sent to us and also send photos to our loved ones. We really appreciate this feature—it hasn’t been possible anywhere else.
Our hotel is right in the heart of the ancient city but quiet, with a large adjoining vegetable garden.It’s The Bivou hotel—very modern and comfortable. We’re welcomed with tea, homemade gingerbread, and clementines.
We settle into our room—super comfortable and gorgeous.
And we don’t waste any time heading out to explore the old town’s streets. It’s charming.
Back at the hotel, which has a VPN, we can receive and open photos sent to us and also send photos to our loved ones. We really appreciate this feature—it hasn’t been possible anywhere else.The next day after an excellent buffet breakfast, we set off to visit Lijiang, a city classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's a city built around canals.
We enter the city at the large noria (waterwheel).
It's beautifully flowered and superbly maintained.
To facilitate commercial exchanges, the city was never surrounded by walls. It was the women who ran the caravanserais. Among the Naxi, women do everything.... The city developed thanks to trade because the land wasn't fertile.
Today it's a tourist city, but it's quiet this morning. In the evening, the atmosphere seems to be different.
We're amazed by the beauty of the flowers.
It's beautifully flowered and superbly maintained.
To facilitate commercial exchanges, the city was never surrounded by walls. It was the women who ran the caravanserais. Among the Naxi, women do everything.... The city developed thanks to trade because the land wasn't fertile.
Today it's a tourist city, but it's quiet this morning. In the evening, the atmosphere seems to be different.We're amazed by the beauty of the flowers.
At the Square of All Directions, a group of Naxi in traditional costumes are dancing, joined by locals and tourists.
Then we walk leisurely to the Zongi market. It's a market mainly dedicated to food. They even sell century eggs. These are eggs coated in lime and straw, which can be preserved longer... though maybe not a full 100 years.
The jeweler sells pearl oysters—or not, it's a gamble....
And all kinds of fruits, vegetables, and fish.
Street food stalls.
Fruits with strange shapes.
Then we head to lunch at a lovely restaurant by the canal.
Then we walk leisurely to the Zongi market. It's a market mainly dedicated to food. They even sell century eggs. These are eggs coated in lime and straw, which can be preserved longer... though maybe not a full 100 years.
The jeweler sells pearl oysters—or not, it's a gamble....
And all kinds of fruits, vegetables, and fish.Street food stalls.
Fruits with strange shapes.
Then we head to lunch at a lovely restaurant by the canal.
First time for me. Great choice!After lunch, we’ll visit the Mu family residence, known as the "Forbidden City of Lijiang."
It’s a stunning architectural complex. So colorful!
Some small pavilions are tucked away in the greenery.
Water is always present in this type of residence.
We get to see a few rooms in the house—still colorful and cozy.
After this visit, we’ll say goodbye to the other travelers who shared these two weeks with us. The group worked really well together. We’re all thrilled about this time spent together, thanks to everyone’s good vibes, mutual respect, and of course, our guide Sébastien... Each of us will continue our journey separately—some heading farther north, others south, or simply returning to France. For us, it’ll be discovering villages and the less touristy, more authentic side of China.
Some small pavilions are tucked away in the greenery.
Water is always present in this type of residence.
We get to see a few rooms in the house—still colorful and cozy.
After this visit, we’ll say goodbye to the other travelers who shared these two weeks with us. The group worked really well together. We’re all thrilled about this time spent together, thanks to everyone’s good vibes, mutual respect, and of course, our guide Sébastien... Each of us will continue our journey separately—some heading farther north, others south, or simply returning to France. For us, it’ll be discovering villages and the less touristy, more authentic side of China.
While waiting to return to our hotel in the evening, we’re going to wander around Shuhe in the old town. You can’t get lost—just follow the canals. Near the canal, we spot a well. There, we see the three water levels our guide Sébastien told us about.
The top level is reserved for drinking and must not be used for anything else.
The next level is for washing vegetables, and the last basin is for laundry.
The usage hours are very strict. Drinking water in the morning, other activities in the afternoon. And since these basins are sloped, the current carries away the wastewater.
We also take a few photos of the motorbikes we come across. They’re fun with their decorative plushies.
And in the evening, at dinner, we’re going to cheat on Chinese cuisine—we’re having pizza.....
The usage hours are very strict. Drinking water in the morning, other activities in the afternoon. And since these basins are sloped, the current carries away the wastewater.
We also take a few photos of the motorbikes we come across. They’re fun with their decorative plushies.
And in the evening, at dinner, we’re going to cheat on Chinese cuisine—we’re having pizza.....
The next day, bright and early, we're already in the car. Our driver Suhe is super friendly and very careful.
Heading to the Blue Moon Mountain. We arrived early, but we weren't the first. The Chinese are early risers. There were already lots of them on-site. They came prepared with rain gear, even though we didn’t get a single drop of rain.
The yaks were already there too, ready for photos.
Even the sun showed up. We were lucky to have sunlit peaks—it was gorgeous.
The Blue Lake is definitely an artificial lake—or rather, a series of mountain lakes. Many small water reservoirs flow in cascades. It’s absolutely stunning!
And it’s still so well-maintained, really easy to access.
Heading to the Blue Moon Mountain. We arrived early, but we weren't the first. The Chinese are early risers. There were already lots of them on-site. They came prepared with rain gear, even though we didn’t get a single drop of rain.
The yaks were already there too, ready for photos.
Even the sun showed up. We were lucky to have sunlit peaks—it was gorgeous.
The Blue Lake is definitely an artificial lake—or rather, a series of mountain lakes. Many small water reservoirs flow in cascades. It’s absolutely stunning!
And it’s still so well-maintained, really easy to access.After this lovely visit, we continue our journey to the parking lot that will take us to the cable car up to the yak plateau. It takes twenty minutes to get up there. There are lots of clouds, so we can’t see much, and it’s pretty cold. Luckily, we’re well bundled up. But we come across several young couples taking their wedding photos. They must be freezing...
On the plateau, there are a lot of us—maybe too many to spot any yaks. We only see a few goats... and some horses.
We get to taste yak cheese, milk, and dried yak meat.
An hour and a half drive to reach the mountain village of Wumu. It’s really in the middle of nowhere, but it’s beautiful.
We’ll have lunch in this village but won’t stay long because the whole place is under construction. They’re installing a sewage system. It’s a massive job... The menu: noodle soup and homemade jam-filled pastries.
And it’s farther on, on the other side of the river, where we’ll spend the next few days. In a small village of about twenty families, clinging to the mountainside above the Yangtze. It’s an extraordinary place, breathtakingly beautiful.
The village of Baoshan Stone.
On the plateau, there are a lot of us—maybe too many to spot any yaks. We only see a few goats... and some horses.
We get to taste yak cheese, milk, and dried yak meat.
An hour and a half drive to reach the mountain village of Wumu. It’s really in the middle of nowhere, but it’s beautiful.
We’ll have lunch in this village but won’t stay long because the whole place is under construction. They’re installing a sewage system. It’s a massive job... The menu: noodle soup and homemade jam-filled pastries.
And it’s farther on, on the other side of the river, where we’ll spend the next few days. In a small village of about twenty families, clinging to the mountainside above the Yangtze. It’s an extraordinary place, breathtakingly beautiful.
The village of Baoshan Stone.
It's stunning, but thankfully we didn’t have to carry our luggage...
When we arrived, we were offered tea, nuts, peanuts, and clementines. The owners are lovely—attentive and always smiling. We settled into our room. We weren’t expecting such a cozy, comfortable space in such a small village. The view of the river and mountains is incredible.
Everything is new, spacious, and spotless.
They offered to do our laundry, and the washing machine was at our disposal.
At 7 PM, dinner was served with a view of the mountains. Everything was delicious. Three meat dishes: beef, chicken, pork. Three vegetable dishes: turnips and carrots, potatoes, zucchini. All homemade. And a small glass of corn liquor to help digestion—made by the grandfather.
Needless to say, we weren’t bothered by car noise at night. No noise at all. It’s almost eerie.
The next morning, the owner was busy preparing bread for breakfast. Big smile. The same warmth as always.
While the bread was baking, the owner offered to show us his beehives.
And his crops, his coffee plantations...
Then we sat down for breakfast. Tea, locally produced coffee, homemade honey, fresh bread, farm eggs, sweet potato and squash, rice soup, and fruit. Nothing was missing. Everything was delicious.
When we arrived, we were offered tea, nuts, peanuts, and clementines. The owners are lovely—attentive and always smiling. We settled into our room. We weren’t expecting such a cozy, comfortable space in such a small village. The view of the river and mountains is incredible.
Everything is new, spacious, and spotless.
They offered to do our laundry, and the washing machine was at our disposal.At 7 PM, dinner was served with a view of the mountains. Everything was delicious. Three meat dishes: beef, chicken, pork. Three vegetable dishes: turnips and carrots, potatoes, zucchini. All homemade. And a small glass of corn liquor to help digestion—made by the grandfather.
Needless to say, we weren’t bothered by car noise at night. No noise at all. It’s almost eerie.
The next morning, the owner was busy preparing bread for breakfast. Big smile. The same warmth as always.
While the bread was baking, the owner offered to show us his beehives.
And his crops, his coffee plantations...
Then we sat down for breakfast. Tea, locally produced coffee, homemade honey, fresh bread, farm eggs, sweet potato and squash, rice soup, and fruit. Nothing was missing. Everything was delicious.
After breakfast, we set off to descend to the river, first through the village.
We cross the village square, surprisingly large given the layout of the place.
It’s a meeting spot for the villagers.Then we climb onto the ramparts and reach another esplanade overlooking the village.
Next, we walk through the second part of the village. Everyone’s going about their business.
Some villagers are returning from the gardens along the riverbank. It’s tough going—they’re loaded down, and the climb is steep.
We went down to the Yangtze River and to the small port that’s set up for river cruises, but at this time of year, navigation is banned—it’s too dangerous.
Then we started making our way back up to the guesthouse. The climb was exhausting, really exhausting. We knew it would be, of course... but it was quite the workout.
We took several breaks and eventually made it... thankfully, as you’d say...
On the other hand, I can’t seem to upload photos anymore... Sorry about that...
On the other hand, I can’t seem to upload photos anymore... Sorry about that...
Log in first, then come back to this page.
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More discussions
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA General You’ll need to download and set up a few apps: - Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip) - Didi for taxis - Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways) - A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results) - Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy. - HelloRide for bikes - Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things. - HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats) - Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city. For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet. Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out. Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town. The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully. Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off. Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant. The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example. We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly. We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice. Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down. 45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up. We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day. In the city, check out...
Chengdu Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill. Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out. Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights. Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us. All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that. The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border) Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM General: - You’ll need the Grab app for taxis - Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead. - Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai 2 km between the border and the train station. The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think). Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves. There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops. Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour). The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An 45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot. Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go. The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc No Grab in the city, but regular taxis. One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon. 250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike) The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate. Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA General: - Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere. Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example. The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride. Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise. Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas. By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour. Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere. Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours. If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon. For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones. Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours. Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap) Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city. Show tip: The Phare Circus
CHINA General You’ll need to download and set up a few apps: - Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip) - Didi for taxis - Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways) - A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results) - Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy. - HelloRide for bikes - Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things. - HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats) - Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city. For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet. Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out. Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town. The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully. Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off. Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant. The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example. We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly. We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice. Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down. 45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up. We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day. In the city, check out...
Chengdu Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill. Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out. Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights. Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us. All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that. The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border) Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM General: - You’ll need the Grab app for taxis - Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead. - Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai 2 km between the border and the train station. The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think). Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves. There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops. Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour). The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An 45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot. Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go. The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc No Grab in the city, but regular taxis. One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon. 250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike) The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate. Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA General: - Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere. Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example. The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride. Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise. Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas. By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour. Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere. Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours. If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon. For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones. Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours. Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap) Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city. Show tip: The Phare Circus
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
Thanks for your tips!
Thanks for your tips!
Hi there,
Has anyone taken the bus recently, especially the Busda bus from Dongsi subway station to Mutianyu or the special tourist bus from Qianmen to Mutianyu? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback!
I’m traveling solo to China on September 18th and I’m completely overwhelmed by all the info out there.
Thanks so much for your help!
Best regards,
Elisabeth
Has anyone taken the bus recently, especially the Busda bus from Dongsi subway station to Mutianyu or the special tourist bus from Qianmen to Mutianyu? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback!
I’m traveling solo to China on September 18th and I’m completely overwhelmed by all the info out there.
Thanks so much for your help!
Best regards,
Elisabeth
Hi there,
This isn’t my first trip, but it’s still tough to make choices, so I’m open to outside perspectives. This time, the plan is southern Kyushu with a slightly more off-the-beaten-path twist. I’m not sure if you’ll be able to help since I’m skipping some of the classics in Kyushu, but you never know. I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether this itinerary is realistic in terms of time spent in each place, travel time, and the overall pace of the road trip. Just to note, I already have my translated driver’s license.
Here’s the itinerary: - **Day 1:** YAMAGA / overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto Depart from Osaka by train early in the morning to Kumamoto, pick up the rental car, then drive to Yamaga for a visit. Overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto.
- **Days 2–4:** HITOYOSHI / overnight in Hitoyoshi Drive to Hitoyoshi for 3 days and 3 nights, including a visit to the town, nearby waterfalls, a walk along the Kuma River, a tea producer visit, and some craft activities.
- **Day 5:** AYA / overnight in Miyazaki Drive to Aya, visit the town, craft activities, the forest, and the suspension bridge.
- **Day 6:** AOSHIMA - NICHINAN COAST / overnight in Miyazaki Udo Shrine + Aoshima + scenic drive along the coast.
- **Day 7:** MIYAKONOJO / overnight in Shibushi Drive to a waterfall, then continue along the Nichinan Coast if there’s anything left to see, or visit Kojima Island.
- **Day 8:** SHIBUSHI Walk around the port and along the Osumi Peninsula coast, maybe as far as the Kishira/Hetsuka coast, or visit a black pork producer, a market gardener, or a tea producer. Overnight at a farm?
- **Day 9:** KANOYA / overnight in Kagoshima Visit Ogawara Waterfall, Nishiharadai Park, and Kannon Cave, then Sugawara Shrine, followed by the drive to Kagoshima.
- **Day 10:** KAGOSHIMA / overnight in Kagoshima Explore the city + whisky distillery in Hioki.
- **Days 11–12:** KOSHIKISHIMA / 2 nights in Koshikishima
- **Day 13:** AKUNE OSHIMA / overnight in Akune Ferry, then drive to Akune Oshima with a stop at Sendai Taki.
- **Days 14–15:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Amakusa Drive via Nagashima and visit Shimoshima (Amakusa).
- **Day 16:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Fukuoka Drive back toward Kumamoto with stops along the way, return the rental car, then take the train to Fukuoka.
- **Days 17–18:** FUKUOKA CITY / overnight in Fukuoka Possible half-day excursion to Nokonoshima, Munakata, or Nanzoin.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Too ambitious? I could add an extra day but would prefer not to if it means less rushing around.
Thanks!
This isn’t my first trip, but it’s still tough to make choices, so I’m open to outside perspectives. This time, the plan is southern Kyushu with a slightly more off-the-beaten-path twist. I’m not sure if you’ll be able to help since I’m skipping some of the classics in Kyushu, but you never know. I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether this itinerary is realistic in terms of time spent in each place, travel time, and the overall pace of the road trip. Just to note, I already have my translated driver’s license.
Here’s the itinerary: - **Day 1:** YAMAGA / overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto Depart from Osaka by train early in the morning to Kumamoto, pick up the rental car, then drive to Yamaga for a visit. Overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto.
- **Days 2–4:** HITOYOSHI / overnight in Hitoyoshi Drive to Hitoyoshi for 3 days and 3 nights, including a visit to the town, nearby waterfalls, a walk along the Kuma River, a tea producer visit, and some craft activities.
- **Day 5:** AYA / overnight in Miyazaki Drive to Aya, visit the town, craft activities, the forest, and the suspension bridge.
- **Day 6:** AOSHIMA - NICHINAN COAST / overnight in Miyazaki Udo Shrine + Aoshima + scenic drive along the coast.
- **Day 7:** MIYAKONOJO / overnight in Shibushi Drive to a waterfall, then continue along the Nichinan Coast if there’s anything left to see, or visit Kojima Island.
- **Day 8:** SHIBUSHI Walk around the port and along the Osumi Peninsula coast, maybe as far as the Kishira/Hetsuka coast, or visit a black pork producer, a market gardener, or a tea producer. Overnight at a farm?
- **Day 9:** KANOYA / overnight in Kagoshima Visit Ogawara Waterfall, Nishiharadai Park, and Kannon Cave, then Sugawara Shrine, followed by the drive to Kagoshima.
- **Day 10:** KAGOSHIMA / overnight in Kagoshima Explore the city + whisky distillery in Hioki.
- **Days 11–12:** KOSHIKISHIMA / 2 nights in Koshikishima
- **Day 13:** AKUNE OSHIMA / overnight in Akune Ferry, then drive to Akune Oshima with a stop at Sendai Taki.
- **Days 14–15:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Amakusa Drive via Nagashima and visit Shimoshima (Amakusa).
- **Day 16:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Fukuoka Drive back toward Kumamoto with stops along the way, return the rental car, then take the train to Fukuoka.
- **Days 17–18:** FUKUOKA CITY / overnight in Fukuoka Possible half-day excursion to Nokonoshima, Munakata, or Nanzoin.
Any thoughts or suggestions? Too ambitious? I could add an extra day but would prefer not to if it means less rushing around.
Thanks!
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there... But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there... But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
Hi, I’m planning a Paris–Hong Kong round trip with a return from Chongqing to Paris, spanning 28 days in November 2026.
The flight is with Air China, with a few hours’ layover in Beijing each time (I plan to stay inside the airport).
I’ve reread the conditions several times, but since I’m never entirely sure, I’d love your input.
Are we all clear that visa exemptions apply?
For arrival in Hong Kong, crossing the Hong Kong–China land border (via Shenzhen), and the return flight from Chongqing?
Thanks for your insights.
The flight is with Air China, with a few hours’ layover in Beijing each time (I plan to stay inside the airport).
I’ve reread the conditions several times, but since I’m never entirely sure, I’d love your input.
Are we all clear that visa exemptions apply?
For arrival in Hong Kong, crossing the Hong Kong–China land border (via Shenzhen), and the return flight from Chongqing?
Thanks for your insights.
Hi everyone,
To simplify logistics, I'm considering renting a car for 5/6 days in the Japanese Alps before heading to Kyoto solo.
Is driving difficult or even risky in this region?
Thanks for your feedback!
Tara
Hi there,
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train. On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night. On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku: - 2 nights in the Iya Valley - Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights. - Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka. We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip: - Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita - Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro - Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD - Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy... I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving... Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu. For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)? Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot? For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
Thanks for your help!
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train. On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night. On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku: - 2 nights in the Iya Valley - Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights. - Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka. We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip: - Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita - Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro - Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD - Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy... I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving... Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu. For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)? Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot? For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
Thanks for your help!
I saw there are several "authentic" villages about 90/100 km from Beijing.
Including: Lingshui, Liuliqu, Sangyu, Miaoying, and Cuandixia.
Has anyone visited any of them? I was thinking of choosing Cuandixia—what do you think?
Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone!
It seems there’s a flea market in Tianjin that’s way more interesting than the one in Beijing. I’ve been searching online but can’t find the right one… The one I’m looking for is called gu wan shi chang (my PC won’t display the Chinese characters…). Does anyone have the address and has anyone been there before? The one in Beijing has lost a lot of its charm over the past 10 years, so I wanted to find another. Thanks!
Hi there,
I’m staying in Atami for 2 nights in October. I was thinking of exploring the area and trying to see Mount Fuji.
I was planning to go to Shizuoka. And also enjoy the onsen (hot springs).
Don’t hesitate to share any tips or recommendations—I’d love to hear them!
Thanks in advance.
I’m staying in Atami for 2 nights in October. I was thinking of exploring the area and trying to see Mount Fuji.
I was planning to go to Shizuoka. And also enjoy the onsen (hot springs).
Don’t hesitate to share any tips or recommendations—I’d love to hear them!
Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
Can anyone recommend a way to transfer from Narita Airport to Haneda Airport? Is the bus the simplest option? Thanks!
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation. I do stone sculpture. I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history. Marie
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation. I do stone sculpture. I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history. Marie
Hello,
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan. From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan. Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan? (I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us? (According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara - Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights - Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights - Himeji: 1 night - Kyoto: 4 nights - Kanazawa: 2 nights - Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights - Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights - Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks) Departure from Tokyo
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! :)
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan. From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan. Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan? (I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us? (According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara - Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights - Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights - Himeji: 1 night - Kyoto: 4 nights - Kanazawa: 2 nights - Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights - Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights - Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks) Departure from Tokyo
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! :)
Hi there,
What do you think of this itinerary for a first 15-day trip to China?
Day 1 to 4: Beijing
Day 5 to 6: Datong - Yungang
Day 6 to 7: Pingyao
Day 8 to 10: Xi'an
Day 11 to 15: Shanghai
Itinerary:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HXdGotaSPgQThoi19?g_st=iw
Day 1 to 4: Beijing
Day 5 to 6: Datong - Yungang
Day 6 to 7: Pingyao
Day 8 to 10: Xi'an
Day 11 to 15: Shanghai
Itinerary:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HXdGotaSPgQThoi19?g_st=iw
hi
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much. philippe
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much. philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City Jinshanling → Great Wall Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars Fenghuang → riverside houses Ping’an → terraced rice fields Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City Jinshanling → Great Wall Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars Fenghuang → riverside houses Ping’an → terraced rice fields Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
Hi there,
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung. Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Thanks in advance!
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung. Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
Hey everyone,
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable? We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Thanks for your feedback 😉
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable? We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Thanks for your feedback 😉
hi there
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change? thanks
philippe
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change? thanks
philippe
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
Hi there,
I haven’t found what I’m looking for despite my searches!
For a 15-day trip next spring, I’d like to buy a card (preferably an eSIM, but a physical SIM is fine too) that also lets me make calls in the country (to contact a hotel, a tourist spot, etc.).
You can easily find options just for data, but I haven’t come across any that include calls, texts, or even MMS. Could you recommend something?
Thanks in advance
I haven’t found what I’m looking for despite my searches!
For a 15-day trip next spring, I’d like to buy a card (preferably an eSIM, but a physical SIM is fine too) that also lets me make calls in the country (to contact a hotel, a tourist spot, etc.).
You can easily find options just for data, but I haven’t come across any that include calls, texts, or even MMS. Could you recommend something?
Thanks in advance
hi there
I’m planning a trip in September—here’s my rough itinerary. What do you think? Is it easy to rent a car to get around between my stops? Thanks so much!
Philippe StopNightsFull daysSeoul44Gurye (Jirisan)43Suncheon43Namhae43Gyeongju21Seoul1—
Philippe StopNightsFull daysSeoul44Gurye (Jirisan)43Suncheon43Namhae43Gyeongju21Seoul1—
Hi,
Great article that really captures what makes South Korea so appealing!
South Korea: Between Hallyu and the search for authenticity, the French are falling for the destination
Great article that really captures what makes South Korea so appealing!
South Korea: Between Hallyu and the search for authenticity, the French are falling for the destination
Hello,
We’re planning a 17-day trip to South Korea in October 2026 with my husband and our daughters, who’ll be 9 years old.
I’d love to get your thoughts on our draft itinerary.
First, some key details:
1/ Jeju Island is a must for us. I’ve personally dreamed of going there for years after reading a novel about it. 2/ Our girls are used to road-trip style travel since they were born, so this kind of trip won’t be an issue for them. 3/ We plan to travel by train, except on Jeju where we’ll rent a car (we already have an international driver’s permit).
Itinerary:
Seoul: 1 arrival day at 10 AM + 4 full days Gyeongju: 2 days Busan: 3 days Jeju: 4 days Seoul: 2 days
Thanks for your feedback! Have a great day,
Sabrina
We’re planning a 17-day trip to South Korea in October 2026 with my husband and our daughters, who’ll be 9 years old.
I’d love to get your thoughts on our draft itinerary.
First, some key details:
1/ Jeju Island is a must for us. I’ve personally dreamed of going there for years after reading a novel about it. 2/ Our girls are used to road-trip style travel since they were born, so this kind of trip won’t be an issue for them. 3/ We plan to travel by train, except on Jeju where we’ll rent a car (we already have an international driver’s permit).
Itinerary:
Seoul: 1 arrival day at 10 AM + 4 full days Gyeongju: 2 days Busan: 3 days Jeju: 4 days Seoul: 2 days
Thanks for your feedback! Have a great day,
Sabrina
Hi there,
My girlfriend (23) and I (24) are heading to Japan for the first time from October 20th to November 6th. Here’s our itinerary:
6 nights in Tokyo 1 night in Hakone (ryokan already booked) 4 nights in Kyoto (hotel already booked) 2 nights in Osaka 4 nights back in Tokyo I’d like to book hotels for Tokyo (both stays) and Osaka, but I’ve gotten so many different recommendations.
I’ve read that Shinjuku is the place to be for its huge hub, accessibility, and things to do, but I’ve also heard about Shibuya, Asakusa, and Ueno. I’ve looked at hotels, and first off, I’m surprised by the prices compared to what I’ve seen on forums (I guess inflation’s hit here too… and maybe I’m late to the booking game?). I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the options.
For our first stay in Tokyo, I’d prefer a hotel (not a residence or Airbnb) since we’ll be arriving at night, and it’s our first time in Japan. It’d be great to have a place with a reception, staff who speak at least a little English, and can give us some guidance. For the second stay, we could consider other options if it’s better. Budget-wise, we can go up to 150–180 € per night, but if we can save some money to spend elsewhere, that’d be amazing!
I’m open to all recommendations, hotel suggestions, or any other tips for Tokyo (first stay), Osaka, and Tokyo (second stay).
Thanks so much!
6 nights in Tokyo 1 night in Hakone (ryokan already booked) 4 nights in Kyoto (hotel already booked) 2 nights in Osaka 4 nights back in Tokyo I’d like to book hotels for Tokyo (both stays) and Osaka, but I’ve gotten so many different recommendations.
I’ve read that Shinjuku is the place to be for its huge hub, accessibility, and things to do, but I’ve also heard about Shibuya, Asakusa, and Ueno. I’ve looked at hotels, and first off, I’m surprised by the prices compared to what I’ve seen on forums (I guess inflation’s hit here too… and maybe I’m late to the booking game?). I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the options.
For our first stay in Tokyo, I’d prefer a hotel (not a residence or Airbnb) since we’ll be arriving at night, and it’s our first time in Japan. It’d be great to have a place with a reception, staff who speak at least a little English, and can give us some guidance. For the second stay, we could consider other options if it’s better. Budget-wise, we can go up to 150–180 € per night, but if we can save some money to spend elsewhere, that’d be amazing!
I’m open to all recommendations, hotel suggestions, or any other tips for Tokyo (first stay), Osaka, and Tokyo (second stay).
Thanks so much!
Hi there.
I’m traveling solo to China in October '26, heading to these spots:
Guilin - Yangshuo - Chengdu – Leshan – Chongqing – Zhangjiajie - Furong – Shanghai
Any guides you’d recommend?
Tons of "agencies" (gowithguide, Hellechinaguide, etc.) offer guides. Can I reach out to them? I also speak English.
Any other tips for me?
Thanks! !
Guilin - Yangshuo - Chengdu – Leshan – Chongqing – Zhangjiajie - Furong – Shanghai
Any guides you’d recommend?
Tons of "agencies" (gowithguide, Hellechinaguide, etc.) offer guides. Can I reach out to them? I also speak English.
Any other tips for me?
Thanks! !
Hi there,
I’m getting ready for a classic tourist trip to China in May 2026.
The "Terres Lointaines" itinerary looks good to me, and the price is interesting.
Has anyone traveled with them before? Any feedback?
Is there a better option?
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences on this!
Michel
hi, does anyone have suggestions or contacts for a private local driver without going through a big travel agency for a multi-day trip in Yunnan?
thanks for any info
thanks for any info