You’ve also got some amazing hikes in the area. If the season’s right and the river level is low, you can start from this valley—still in its natural state—along the M'Goun river and follow it all the way to Bou Tharar, passing through the stunning and dramatic Achabou gorge. (You’ll have water up to your feet, maybe even your knees; it’s narrow, so it’s best not to set off just anytime.)
At the bottom of Tizi Ait Imi, there’s a pretty basic gîte-camping spot that does the job—Gîte Vallée M'Goun, 3 km before the village of Ouzirimt. You leave your car there and follow the river through all the little villages until Bou Tharar...
A super nice hike that can be done in 3 or 4 days. The gîte is functional, but it’s not the Mamounia. Once in Bou Tharar, you can catch a 308 or 208 (shared taxi) heading to Tabant and get dropped off at the gîte. In Bou Tharar, at Auberge Tamalout (eating there is better because the owner’s getting a bit stingy in his old age ^^), he’ll call to book the number of seats from Kelaa M'gouna where they leave...
I’ll just suggest an alternative that’s as wild as yours but way prettier and far less touristy than some of the tacky stuff—like visiting the Zazate studios, which is a total scam for suckers... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum downtown, right across from the Taourirt Kasbah. The guy who started it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (though he did go to Sciences Po, so he’s cool in my book ^^). It’s at least a bit more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging around there for over 20 years, mostly for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...
Hi,
Same remarks... This is a "throw a stone and see what happens" kind of program... 😇... Go to Skoura and Fint to head back to Dadès, not great either...
Since you clearly don’t want to stop and want to see as much as possible—which is your choice after all—I’d need a month, even rushing, to do your loop... and that’s if I don’t run into too many friends along the way...😛
I’d just suggest a variant that’s as crazy as yours but much prettier and way less "cutesy" than some of the tourist traps, like visiting the Zazate studios, which is a total scam for gullible tourists... If you *really* want to see something film-related, check out the cinema museum in the center, across from the Taourirt kasbah... The guy who created it doesn’t manage it anymore and couldn’t care less (he went to Sciences Po, though, and I love the guy ^^). The idea is more "cultural" than the nonsense you’re about to put your kids through... Ouarzazate is my turf—I’ve been hanging out there for over 20 years, for work, but Perju’s right: move along, there’s nothing to see...
Fint, the oasis hyped up by all the YouTubers, Facebookers, and—worse—TikTokers who spend 5 days in Morocco and then write million-page guides about everything you *need* to know about the country... Really not a priority for an ultra-short road trip...
So if I understood correctly, you’ve got 9 days, meaning 8 nights there...
Night 1: MRK...
Night 2: AGOUTI OR TABANT (I figured it’s not great to do the Tichka twice), so I’d head to Ait Bouli, then the Ait Bougemez valley... Anne, a Swiss woman, runs a really nice hostel, Auberge Flilou ("poppies" in English), on Google Maps—check it out near Agouti... There are others in Tabant for all budgets... Count about 6 hours of driving from MRK via Demnate. After Demnate, you’ll get some stunning scenery (a few spots with *Jurassic Park* vibes and a cute little village with an old granary on your left near Ighir n’Tissent, and a bit later, a small village on a ridge to your right: Iguelouan, pretty spectacular from the road...
Night 3: Bou Tharar... A bit of very high mountain action to prove those *Guide du Routard* clowns wrong about the highest paved passes in Morocco—there are two around here that put the Tichka to shame... After Tabant, a nice climb up the Tizi Ait Imi (the "mouth pass") to descend into the M’Goun valley and then back up the Tizi Ait Hamed at 3,050 m... Gorgeous AND paved... (Hurry up and visit the area before influencers claim they discovered America.) On the way down, some beautiful hairpin turns, then head to Bou Tharar. There are several nice places if you insist, but don’t always follow the pavement... If you’re not afraid of dirt roads, a small, easy detour will take you through the Amejgag gorges (you won’t be bothered by tourists there). I can give you the GPS tracks and points... There are also a few really nice, remote spots before Bou Tharar that are cheap and authentic—real local vibes. FYI, Bou Tharar is kind of the end of the Valley of the Roses...
Night 4: Tinghir... From Bou Tharar, there’s an easy 8 km dirt road that cuts through the massif and connects to the Dadès valley (near Ait Youl) and its beautiful—but sadly overdeveloped—succession of new hostels (though it calms down near Tilmi... for now). From there, you’ll climb the Tizi Ouanno pass (everything’s paved or easy on dirt roads—yeah, those days of roughing it are long gone ^^). On the other side, you’ll pass through Agoudal and descend to Tinghir via the Todgha gorges... (A few nice spots near Agoudal, but no time.)
Night 5: Zagora... From Tinghir, head back toward Boulmane (sorry about Skoura, but you should’ve come 10–15 years ago or more—now it’s a sick, overhyped palm grove, just like Fint, sold by hordes of tourists who’ve invested in fancy hostels. Of course, the YouTubers and TikTokers who "discovered" Morocco three years ago know how to sell it in their blogs...). From Boulmane, head toward Inkioun and cross the Saghro via easy paved roads through the Tizi Tazazert, which, last I heard, has been suffering from severe depression ever since little Logans started crossing it innocently... On the way down (oops, quick stop for orange juice or tea at Auberge Tirza and a viewpoint over the Azzefar canyon), you’ll hit Bab n’Ali... How to put it... Well, it’s basically a big, hard zigzag, but the area’s worth remembering for some great hikes... Then continue to N’Kob... Still paved... After that, turn right toward Zagora via Tanskhite. My heart aches that I can’t tell you about the insane dirt roads in the Saghro or the few beautiful little surprises on the way to Zagora, but I hope the landscape will blow your mind enough to make you want to come back for another trip with *at least* five times more time... or five trips... Zagora: I approve of the hostel Perju recommended. The name’s terrible, but otherwise, I like going to Auberge Soleil du Monde—it’s nice with kids and far from the city... Take a relaxed walk in the evening or morning through the old town of Amzrou; the owner’s really friendly...
Night 6: Chegaga. You’ll have time to go to M’Hamid, but stop just before at Bounou at Camping Esprit Désert (also recommended by Perju, which I approve of), run by Phil, who knows his stuff and can organize a great night in the desert at Chegaga. Otherwise, try M’Hamid—though at Petit Prince, you’ll mostly find charming scammers offering you overpriced junk (if you haven’t been hassled already, because the smooth talkers here are on top form).
Night 7: Do what you want, but enjoy the desert with your kids without rushing, especially since you won’t have your rental car (unless it’s a 4x4)... Head back slowly and why not sleep at the Ksar of Timidarte... Or even head to Ait Ben Haddou if you’re short on time...
Night 8: MRK. On the way back, you’ll have time to stop at Ait Ben Haddou, but even though the place has been ruined lately, it’s still fun for the kids—especially since Kurt Russell peed against the palm tree there (no, I’m keeping that secret to myself)... Obviously, head back via the Ounila, Telouet, and the Tichka...
It’s doable, but it’s a race... Unless your car breaks down, it’s less packed than your first proposal...
Sorry we didn’t see this message—it got buried under the replies about forum features, etc. Sorry because you took the time, so thank you at the same time!
You know now that no, we weren’t just doing our own thing—we simply didn’t see the message. I got an alert about a reply and saw discussions about deleting posts, etc. (see the thread)
No worries. It's your trip, not ours.
The advice everyone gives can also be useful and give ideas to others... Nothing is wasted... It "might" come in handy another time...😛
Regarding the itinerary, since we hadn’t seen your latest tips, we planned a more classic loop (RAK > Aït Ben Haddou > Skoura > Dades > Tinghir > Zagora > Erg Chegaga > OZZ just for the flight) and extended the stay because the initial 9 days were too short.
We’ll have 11 full days. Traveling with two kids (10 and 14), we find it more comfortable and reassuring to do a classic tour, even if it means being among the tourists who all see the same things. The difference is we won’t come back saying "we’ve ‘done’ Morocco"—but anyway.
We know it’s a whirlwind, but at the same time, we don’t have unlimited vacation time.
Usually, we do it this way and return to the same place a few years later to focus on just one area. We travel a lot, and this is how we enjoy it ;)
Darn, I took a while to write this long post... I should’ve just gone to knock back a beer at the neighbor’s...
Ah, you have 2 kids... Okay, tie game, I didn’t see that detail either... So I get why the price is 380 euros now... I thought it was just the two of you...
Have fun and enjoy yourselves... But still, spare yourselves that pile of crap at the Ouarzazate film studios... It’s not worth anything, really... Unless, I guess, you want to please your little ones... When you’re in front of that ridiculous thing... Go around it to the left via the track... It’s an easy track—even a Beetle could handle it... Go behind it... In the distance, you’ll see a big ol’ castle... Personally, I don’t know anything about it; I kicked the TV out of my house over 15 years ago, and my wife swore she’d never go to a movie theater with me again... But I’ve been told that castle was the one from *Game of Thrones* and that it was also used in, uh, some famous movie about the Crusades, lol... You can also get to Ait Benhaddou that way...
And as my friend who started the museum likes to remind us... Ouarzazate, the city of cinema, but with no cinema left... Just saying.
As mentioned, we’ve completely ruled out Ouarzazate as well as the film studios. Ouarzazate will only be visited to reach the airport for your return flight
During our trip to Egypt at the end of January, beginning of February, we plan to visit the White Desert and nearby oases for 3 to 4 days, starting from Cairo.
If my initial agency searches weren't conclusive, I now have a "too many options" situation.
Here’s an alphabetical list of my first findings.
If you’ve had any experience (good or bad) with any of these agencies in the White Desert:
Hi
It's hard to tell from Maps or anything else whether the road along the Tessaout is fully paved from Amezri all the way to the junction with the road connecting Demnate to Ouarzazate (RN23).
Thanks for your replies!
Herviche
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hello, my husband and I will be in Egypt this coming November. Cairo seems more challenging to explore without a guide, and we’ll be there for 3 full days. Would anyone have the name of a guide?
Thanks!
Hi there!
I’m heading to Dakhla at the end of October for about two weeks as a backpacker.
Without renting a car or booking pricey excursions, what are the best ways to get around and explore?
I’ve heard that the small taxis only cover limited routes outside the city center, and the local buses might be tricky...
Thanks to anyone who knows the area and can share their tips for nature and culture in this up-and-coming destination!
Laurence
Hi, I’m planning a 10-day trip to Morocco starting on 12/30 with my parents, and I’d love your thoughts on the itinerary. Since I’m traveling with my parents, who are 78, I’m trying to keep train rides between cities short. I’d like to start with 4 days in FES (with Meknès nearby), then head to Casablanca for 2 days, and finish with 4 days in Marrakech, including a day trip or overnight stay in Essaouira. Thanks for your input!
During our road trip in Morocco in November/December, we’re planning to spend a night at the Hassilabied dunes around November 10th.
We don’t want to sleep in a camp, go on a camel trek, or do a 4x4 tour—we just want to stay right at the foot of the dunes so we can walk around on our own, on foot, at sunrise and sunset. It seems like Hassilabied is better located for this (closer to the dunes) than Merzouga.
Do you know of any clean accommodation with hot water, not too rustic but not too "bling-bling" either, and—most importantly—ideally located right in front of the dunes?
Thanks so much for your tips!
Fran
Hi, we're looking for a guide to show us around Essaouira.
We're 11 adults and don't want to go through an agency. If you have a contact to help us discover this city, that would be great!
Thanks
We're heading to Egypt in a few days, inspired by many of your travel journals (thanks especially to Franck!).
We’ll spend a short day exploring Cairo before an evening departure, with our luggage in tow. We’re traveling light, but it’s still not very practical...
Does anyone know if baggage storage/lockers are easy to find, and if so, do you have any recommendations?
Thanks!
I’m currently planning several trips to Morocco (Marrakech, Draa Valley, Merzouga) and I’m wondering about the reliability of data connections outside major urban centers.
Here’s what I’ve observed on the ground so far:
- In cities (Marrakech, Agadir, Fez), 4G is excellent, including in the medina riads.
- On the Tizi n'Tichka road and toward Ouarzazate, coverage remains decent, with a few dead spots here and there.
- In Saharan areas (Merzouga, Chegaga), the connection becomes patchy: some camps get great reception, others none at all.
My specific questions:
1) On your recent trips, which operator (Maroc Telecom, inwi, Orange) gave you the best coverage in the Atlas and Sahara?
2) Have international eSIMs seemed as reliable as a local Moroccan SIM, or have you noticed a difference in speed in rural areas?
3) While trekking or driving a 4x4 in the desert, have you come across completely dead zones despite theoretical coverage?
I’m happy to share my own coverage notes if it helps, and I’ll gladly answer any questions about Morocco—I know it well.
I'm looking for a travel companion for a road trip in southern Morocco at the end of March 2027.
Duration: 15 days.
Departure from Marrakech.
Car rental and Airbnb accommodation.
Budget: 1200 €.
Itinerary to plan together
I’m heading back to Egypt for the first time in 30 years this July. Last time, I was 20, and we spent two weeks traveling on a shoestring as backpackers.
I’m wondering about a "cruise" on a felucca from Aswan—mainly to avoid being stuck in an air-conditioned tourist bubble (we’re already spending our first week in that setting with our diving club). We’d like to explore the most interesting stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Do you have any thoughts on this option, tips, or maybe some contacts?
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
