I’m looking into planning a trip to Egypt (first time!)
Important context: My wife has difficulty walking. Maybe what I’m looking for will turn out to be complicated.
We’re traveling as a couple for 10 to 14 days.
The initial plan is:
- Land in Cairo: visit Cairo and the surrounding area (still figuring out how long to stay)
- Head up to Luxor: preferably by boat, otherwise by train, or as a last resort, by plane
See what sights there are along the way
- Hot-air balloon excursion in Luxor: Need to look into this
- Then go either to Hurghada or Sharm El Sheikh (via ferry) for some beach time and diving (2/3 days)
The goal for this first trip isn’t to see everything at each destination, but rather to be on the move and experience the journey.
My question is about whether it’s possible to travel up the Nile one-way without doing a round-trip cruise from the starting point. Is this doable? If so, how does it work? Through a local agency?
Should we do this trip in this direction, or would it make more sense to go the other way, starting from Sharm El Sheikh or Hurghada?
Mobility issues? Already, you often walk on sand or dirt roads—everywhere you go, really. Traveling downstream to Luxor by boat is no longer possible; it hasn’t been done in over 20 years, and it used to take at least two weeks. So, your options are plane, train, or bus. For the last two, it’s about a 10-hour trip to Luxor. Right now, trains are expensive—the prices have gone up by over 380%.
And paying in € is the new norm, same for most sites, by credit card.
By plane, without counting the waiting and transfer times, the flight is about 1 hour 15 minutes. We usually book our domestic flights with NileAir, depending on the season or price, otherwise EgyptAir or Air Cairo.
For hot-air balloon rides, the baskets are quite high—110 cm, even 120 cm. Would she be able to step over? For the Hurghada coast or further north, about 30 km away, El Gouna.
It all depends on what activities you’re planning! Anyway, there’s no longer a ferry to Sharm, so if you want to go there, you’ll have to fly from Luxor. And don’t worry about the sights—you won’t have enough time in a lifetime to see everything 😉.
The only cruises still possible are one-way trips: either Luxor to Aswan or Aswan to Luxor. If you’re going upstream, it’s Aswan to Luxor; downstream, it’s the other way around.
A big cruise boat? If so, a travel agency near you can arrange that. Just be careful—they’ll always try to sell you a round-trip cruise, claiming one-way isn’t an option. That’s not true; it’s just not as convenient for them.
About your question: *"Should you do this kind of trip in this direction, or start from Sharm El Sheikh or Hurghada instead?"*—what exactly are you referring to? Practically speaking, if you’re coming from Cairo, the next stop is Luxor, then either Hurghada or Sharm by plane. Either way, you’ll have to return to Cairo for your flight home, right?
Thanks for all the info!
I’ll start with the end.
For the return flight, I was thinking of landing in Cairo and flying back from Sharm. That way, I avoid going back to Cairo.
Does that seem doable? Any constraints you can think of?
My question about the direction is tied to that.
Is there a preference between going from Luxor to Cairo or Cairo to Luxor?
Instead of landing in Cairo, I’d do it in Sharm and leave from Cairo.
I’ll look into the train, even though prices have gone up, and if not, I’ll fall back on the plane.
Hot-air balloon: we’ll give it a try, and if not, I’ll contact an agency to see if step stools are available.
About the sites—do you know if some are easier to access than others from a vehicle? Like, how far is the walk from the vehicle to the site?
You mean flying into Cairo from France and flying back to France from Sharm El-Sheikh? If so, it’s possible, but it’ll probably be more expensive too. Check with your travel agency!
About your question: "Is there a preference between going from Luxor to Cairo or Cairo to Luxor?"—if your return flight to France is involved, it’s an issue either way because you’d still need another flight from Luxor to Sharm. Whether you come back from Cairo or Sharm, the problem’s the same: one extra flight to Luxor.
In my opinion, the most logical route is: Cairo → travel down to Luxor → flight to Sharm → return flight to France.
Another option: if you choose Hurghada (just in case), you could do Cairo → Luxor → return flight to France from Hurghada. Those are the two most logical solutions, I think.
For the hot-air balloon ride, I’ve seen some balloons with a small ladder. The operators are always helpful, though. I’ll ask a few friends in Luxor right away (since that’s the only place where hot-air balloon rides happen) to see if they can tell me more.
About the sites: vehicles can reach the entrance (e.g., Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Hatshepsut’s Temple). After the Valley of the Kings entrance, there’s a little train to the center of the tombs—about 400 meters from the entrance. For the Valley of the Queens, after the entrance, there’s nothing—you walk, usually on sand or gravel. Same for Hatshepsut’s Temple: about 400 meters after the ticket booths.
For the Valley of the Nobles, it’s mostly sand.
I’m online now, so no problem—any other questions?
Thoutmosis
This points me toward Cairo first, then Luxor, and then deciding whether to fly to Sharm.
We do scuba diving, and I’ve heard Sharm is a bit more “chilled” than Hurghada in terms of vibe. Nightlife is livelier in Hurghada.
The extra cost for the flight doesn’t bother me by default.
Access to the monuments seems really good. 👍
Thanks again for your replies—they’re helping me plan. I’ll look into all this.
Laurent
Hello everyone,
Yes, this route logic makes the most sense, but if it's for diving, although I don’t do it myself, many friends who dive in the Red Sea say the best spots are Hurghada, further south in Fort Safaga, El Qouseir, and Marsa Alam (there are plenty of others, but these are the most popular). About 35 km north of Hurghada, there’s El Gouna—a gorgeous little place with canals that make you feel like you’re in Venice. Apart from the hotels, the houses and restaurants are built in the style of old constructions, so the illusion is perfect. If it’s not finished yet, it’s still a place where you can see the original village’s old charm.
Now, about your wife and her mobility issue—people keep asking me if she can barely walk or not at all? I’ve had several responses, but everyone asks the same thing.
If you decide to head to the coast after Luxor but not to Sharm, I can help with transportation. This person can take you all the way to your hotel, even as far as Marsa Alam or the other way around. He often does this route for tourists who don’t have time or don’t want to take the bus (which, by the way, only stops where it’s supposed to). For me, in terms of convenience, this would be the best solution. Time-wise, it’s about the same as flying when you factor in waiting times like we have here plus the flight duration. Plus, the driver drops you right at your hotel, so that’s one less thing to worry about.
It’s up to you—only your choice matters.
As for nightlife, Sharm is even worse, and there are plenty of other downsides I won’t get into here.
Thoutmosis
Hello everyone,
For the hot-air balloon ride, could your wife step over, even with some assistance?
I had photos from 2013 of people I’d taken where you could see a petite woman with a bit of extra weight managing to get in and out of the basket with a little help from the staff, but I deleted them since I didn’t know them—so no point keeping them.
Also, if you do the hot-air balloon ride, just so you know, you’ll need to be ready around 4 or 4:30 AM. To save time, I’ve got some contacts who can book the flight for you—let me know if you’re interested!
Thoutmosis
Le sujet a déjà été abordé par le passé mais je n'ai rien trouvé de spécifique sur l'aéroport qui me concerne et de choses très récentes du coup je me permets…
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Voici un premier jet pour un itinéraire de 14 nuits durant les vacances de Noël avec 2 ados. Nous aimons particulièrement les randos (rien de trop extrême non plus), c'est ce qui nous motive à aller vers le sud.
- Marrakech (2 nuits)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 nuit)
- Dadès ( 3 nuits, mais pensions peut-être faire un aller-retour pour les gorges du Todra l'une de ces journées)
- M'hamid (1 nuit)
- Erg Chigaga (1 nuit)
- 4 nuits à caser
- Marrakech (2 nuits)
Bon, je suis consciente que c'est beaucoup de route et on se questionne encore sur le chemin du retour, puisqu'on aimerait bien éviter le Tichkal en janvier, mais de passer par Taroudant semble énormément rallonger le tout. 😕
Si vous avez d'autres suggestions pour un autre itinéraire incluant de chouettes randos, je suis également preneuse.
Aussi, les 4 nuits totales à MRK ce n'est pas tant que ça nous plait, mais c'est que nous arrivons/repartons très tôt le matin outre-mer donc on aimerait bien être un peu reposé avant le long vol.
Sinon autre question :
Pour les randonnées (outre celle dans le désert), est-il préférable d'avoir un guide avec nous ou si les pistes sont bien balisées?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hi everyone,
We're leaving in early October 2026 and planning to travel from the Aït Bougmez Valley ("Happy Valley") to Skoura/Ouarzazate via Demnate and the R307/N23 route.
Has anyone taken this road recently? Is it passable with a regular car (non-4x4), or is a 4x4 absolutely necessary? Are there any ongoing construction projects or degraded sections to be aware of?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
