Trip to Madagascar in 2026: Nosy Be or Île Sainte-Marie?
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GO
Hi everyone, I’m planning a third trip to Madagascar in 2026. This time, heading north and then part of the west coast before going back up. The question I’m asking myself—same as during our first visits—is Nosy Be or not? Of course, the photos show stunning beaches, and when you mention Madagascar, almost everyone says Nosy Be or at least has heard of it. That’s actually why we didn’t include it in our itineraries before, especially since we’d already seen paradise-like beaches in the south, and we had them all to ourselves because they were hard to reach. On the other hand, I’ve always been drawn to Île Sainte-Marie, but from the north, you have to go back down to Tana, which I’m okay with in principle. So, what’s your take? Nosy Be and its surroundings—what do you think? Just tourists looking to party? Thanks
AS Astaffort Regular ·
hi there I lived in Madagascar in the 60s, and since 1991 I’ve been coming back regularly. I’ve traveled quite a bit off the beaten path—bush taxis, covered trucks, boats, 4L cars, and 4x4s. I went to Nosy Be twice, in 1967 and 1991, and I don’t want to go back. It’s become a Malagasy Phuket or Punta Cana—it’s disheartening how many guys from ANTANANARIVO go there just for the underage girls. So for me, Nosy Be isn’t—or isn’t anymore—real Madagascar. Île Sainte-Marie, on the other hand, has definitely changed (only 3 cars and one minibus in 1992!), but it still feels pretty authentic, even if I don’t approve of all those pseudo-eco-tourists who are *desperate* to see humpback whales (mostly for the pleasure of Italian tour operators). Still, I’m heading there for a week in October. But Nosy Be? That’s just "vita kabary" (all talk). jipi
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Good evening, I’d say the choice really depends on how much time you have, your arrival and departure airports, etc. For a trip under 3 weeks, I don’t think Sainte Marie is the best option. The North is vast—there’s so much to do and see—and unless you have plenty of time, it’s better to stay there for the whole trip. A detour to Sainte Marie would mean either a grueling, pothole-ridden road trip or a flight (doable but pricey for domestic flights).

Here’s what I think: 1/ Nosy Be is fantastic for diving, especially if you’re there during whale shark season. The islands are stunning, and Nosy Be itself is really beautiful. Ylang-ylang plantations, lychee trees, cocoa, and vanilla as you head toward Ambanja. The houses in Hell Ville are charming, and there’s a lovely oceanfront neighborhood with views of the mainland. If you combine Nosy Be and Diego, you’ll have enough to keep you busy for weeks without getting bored. Yes, there are older guys with young women, but outside of Ambatoloaka, you won’t really see it. I spent weeks there in a hotel away from the main spots and never encountered it. One thing, though—the beaches in Nosy Be itself aren’t particularly beautiful. There’s no lagoon because there’s no coral reef, so the best beaches and spots are on the surrounding islands (where you can also stay, like Nosy Komba or Nosy Sakatia). As for crowds, yes, compared to the rest of Madagascar, it’s busier and more touristy, but let’s put it in perspective: Madagascar gets about 300,000 tourists a year. That’s 300,000 people in a country the size of France and Belgium combined… It gives you an idea of how little tourism there really is. Comparisons aren’t always fair, but I read that the Galeries Lafayette in Paris gets 80,000–100,000 visitors *per day* on 7 hectares. So, no, Madagascar isn’t crowded.

2/ Sainte Marie is amazing too—I’ve been back several times and never gotten tired of it. The beaches are way more beautiful than Nosy Be’s, there are fewer people, and there’s Île aux Nattes, a peaceful, timeless little island (it’s part of Sainte Marie, which is part of Madagascar). Maximum tranquility. The flora is gorgeous too. There’s a lagoon on the east coast with stunning colors depending on the tides, pirate ruins, etc. That said, the diving is pretty disappointing, but the snorkeling is nice.

Both are completely different, both are stunning, and both are great for long stays.

But honestly, I wouldn’t go to Sainte Marie unless you have plenty of time for your trip and choose to fly from the North.
GO Golfouette Regular ·
Thanks for your feedback—it confirms what I’ve always thought. Have a great trip in October!
GO Golfouette Regular ·
Thanks for this different perspective. I’m not pressed for time, so I can easily plan 4 to 5 weeks for this region. Thanks
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Perfect, Madagascar really needs time if you want to get around. And if you can spare that time, it’s ideal.

By car, you’re looking at a solid 4 days to travel from the North to Sainte-Marie. Flying might actually be more cost-effective in terms of both time and money.
GO Golfouette Regular ·
thanks for the tip
DJ Djackx67 Veteran ·
My first time in Madagascar was in 2023. I immediately booked a flight from Tana to Sainte Marie and a week in a hotel on Île aux Nattes. In the end, I stayed on Île aux Nattes for 2 months. It was fantastic—a life out of time. Île Sainte-Marie is stunning, the beaches on the northeast are still untouched and wild, with beautiful waves. Paradise.
GO Golfouette Regular ·
My first time in Madagascar was in 2023. I immediately booked a flight from Tana to Sainte Marie and a week in a hotel on Île aux Nattes. In the end, I stayed on Île aux Nattes for 2 months. It was fantastic—a life out of time. Île Sainte-Marie is gorgeous, the beaches on the northeast are still untouched and wild, with beautiful waves. Paradise.

Wow, two months instead of one week—that’s no small change! You really fell in love with it, and you were right to do so.
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Hi there, I’d posted this recap of our last trip to Sainte Marie back in December: Mora Mora in Boraha, 1 week with a touch of Malagasy Polynesia | Travel journal > Madagascar | Voyage Forum There’s a book by Tronchet, the comic book author, who spent several months on Île aux Nattes—*Robinsons père et fils*—which also gives a literary take on the place.

As for our last trip to Nosy Be two years ago, that’s on another forum since this one was still closed then.
GO Golfouette Regular ·
Hello, I had posted this report from our last stay in Sainte Marie last December. Mora Mora in Boraha, 1 week with a touch of Malagasy Polynesia | Travel journal > Madagascar | Voyage Forum There’s a book by Tronchet, the comic book author, who spent several months on Île aux Nattes: "Robinsons père et fils," which also gives a literary perspective.

As for our last trip to Nosy Be two years ago, that’s on another forum—this one was still closed back then.

Thanks, I just read the travel journal. It’s been a while since I last visited Voyageforum, so it’s great that the forum is active again.
JA Jasrymn Veteran ·
Hello, I read in the replies that Nosy Be is like Phuket! That’s a bit of an exaggeration—there’s a cabaret with girls out front for about 10 meters, and that’s pretty much it... For the rest, these are two very different islands. Sainte Marie is much quieter. Nosy Be is far more populated, with a constant stream of tuk-tuks and chaotic traffic. The beaches aren’t great—no water at low tide... That said, what you *should* do is visit the surrounding islands, which are way nicer. Nosy Komba (no roads, no cars), same for Sakatia, and Tanikely for diving. A little gem that’s unfortunately getting too crowded is Nosy Iranja—you’d better hurry and go. The interior of Nosy Be is interesting too. Almost untouched, with remote villages, lakes, and waterfalls—no roads, just trails. You’ll need a guide or someone who knows the area.
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Agreed on everything.

For the surrounding islands, Tanikely like Nosy Iranja are overcrowded, especially on days when cruise ships bring in day-trippers. With thousands of people suddenly on such small islands, it quickly feels overwhelming.

So it's best to avoid going (when possible) on days when the huge boats are anchored at Hell-Ville, and ideally visit off-season (also when possible).

It's really nice to stay on Sakatia or Nosy Komba for a quieter experience and generally for prettier beaches.
GO Golfouette Regular ·
thanks
AS Astaffort Regular ·
Hi, Nosy Be with these charter flights filled to 75% with guys arriving daily from Poland, Bulgaria, Italy (every day), Ethiopia, and soon Emirates—of course, the South Africans every day too. Don’t tell me it’s not too crowded; it’s mass tourism. After checking migration stats, over 100 girls (aged 14 to 25) arrive every week in Nosy Be from all over northern Madagascar—Diego, Sambava, Antalaha, Majunga, and even Tana. With over 20 flights per week starting in May, we’re still getting close to the norm, especially for a small island like Nosy Be. I’ll leave the island to the die-hard fans...
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Good evening, For my part, I wouldn’t be so definitive—there are ways to explore Nosy Be peacefully. As mentioned earlier for the island’s interior, but also by adjusting your schedule and avoiding the most touristy spots for accommodation.

With a max of 100,000 people on an island like that, we’re still far from mass tourism, and it’s easy to be super relaxed.

In Thailand, it’s 40 million per year. In all of Madagascar, we barely hit 400,000.

I’m not a die-hard fan, but I think it’s a shame to avoid it—there are beautiful things to do and see there.

If you love marine life, it’s probably the richest and most fascinating spot in Madagascar. And if you venture off the beaten path, there are truly incredible places.
AS Astaffort Regular ·
good evening yeah, it’s a choice, but the fact that I first visited this island in 1967 is definitely a factor in why I’m disappointed by the current evolution (check out the news on Nosy Satiaka and other practically privatized islands). In Madagascar, there aren’t more than 300,000 tourists in total; we agree on that, but you should know that at least half of them go to Nosy Be—so 150,000 tourists for that tiny piece of land???? For Nosy Komba, the last time I was there was in 1999, and it was still amazing—just 3 or 4 small hotels. Now there are over 20 (since Ankify, where I often go in the evenings, you can see the whole island lit up). I prefer the northeast region, Antalaha to the Masoala Peninsula, and also the stunning coast between Soanierana Ivongo and Mananara, probably the most beautiful in Madagascar, along with—though in a different style—the coast between Tulear, Andavadakoa, and Morombe, home to the island’s most beautiful baobab forest (best explored by the coast, not via RN 9). And also the Itampolo area—those are still authentic spots, but for how long???? But I do think that half the tourists being focused on Nosy Be suits me just fine 😎😛
JA Jasrymn Veteran ·
We agree on pretty much everything, except I’ve never seen 14-year-old girls there. Maybe it was a different time... I know you have a real issue with Nosy Be, and I agree there are much better places in Madagascar! Fort Dauphin, Andringitra, and so many more... For tourism, it’s true. About half of all tourists go to Nosy Be—why? Because the infrastructure on the main island is almost nonexistent, and traveling 1,000 kilometers on rough roads is quite an adventure. So far, Nosy Be isn’t mass tourism yet, except for a few spots like Andilana where you only hear Italian. But yes, unfortunately, it’s becoming more like that. As Rotsaka mentioned, Iranja is overrated—I’ve even heard talk of limiting visitor numbers. Still, most people arrive at 10 AM and leave by 3 PM, so evenings are quiet. I remember Komba back when there were just three small hotels—it was a different time. Now, you still only have a tiny sandy or rocky path to explore.

Anyway, I think travelers still have plenty of choices for different kinds of trips based on what they’re looking for. Don’t limit yourself—go explore!
AS Astaffort Regular ·
Hi there, Yeah, totally agree with you—that’s exactly why I prefer exploring the island. I did that with my wife in bush taxis, often in the back of covered trucks, back in the 1990s/2000s. After that, I bought an old 4x4 and was able to drive the RN5 several times.

I also did a trip in 1998 from Vaingaindrano to Fort Dauphin—half on foot and half in makeshift vehicles, etc. I’ve been to Andrigitra, the Tsingy, and more—I won’t list it all. The only thing missing from my list is the Makay. The trip I had planned fell through.

But like I say, it was a different time. It’s the same with Asia, where I was based for work in the 75/80s—you can imagine how much things have changed.

I lived in Tahiti and Nouméa with my parents between 1958 and 1962, so I don’t really feel like going back.

I do have Malagasy friends who keep insisting I visit Nosy Be, where their family owns a small hotel, but honestly, I’m not really up for it.

My next trip at the end of this year: Sainte Marie, the loop from Tana to Antsirabe to Ampefy and back to Tana (I’ve never taken the road between Antsirabe and Ampefy). Then I’ll head north, hoping to finally see my Malagasy friends in Antalaha—maybe Diego and a detour to Majunga on the way back.

We’ll see—I’ve got two months!
TR Traveltomada ·
Hello, You’re planning a trip to northern Madagascar in 2026, and I wanted to share a few suggestions based on what I discovered during my own explorations. If you get the chance to visit Diego-Suarez, I highly recommend taking the time to explore the area: with its emerald sea, spectacular landscapes, and warm atmosphere, it’s a region that stays with you. The Kite Surf in the North is especially popular there, with ideal wind conditions between June and September. A little further south, around Antongil Bay, exploration takes on a whole new dimension. From there, some routes will take you to Whale Island, a fascinating spot during the season, especially for whale watching in their natural habitat. I also had the chance to look into La SAVA and its discoveries: this region is full of hidden natural treasures. It’s not just vanilla that makes it rich, but also its biodiversity, local culture, and unique landscapes between sea and mountains. Finally, if you like off-the-beaten-path trips, check out local initiatives like Safarilaka Tours, which offers unusual itineraries—though I’ll let you do your own research based on your travel preferences and needs. Happy planning, and I hope your future trip brings you some wonderful surprises!

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