At the Square of All Directions, a group of Naxi in traditional costumes are dancing, joined by locals and tourists.
Then we walk leisurely to the Zongi market.
It's a market mainly dedicated to food.
They even sell century eggs. These are eggs coated in lime and straw, which can be preserved longer... though maybe not a full 100 years.
The jeweler sells pearl oysters—or not, it's a gamble....
And all kinds of fruits, vegetables, and fish.
Street food stalls.
Fruits with strange shapes.
Then we head to lunch at a lovely restaurant by the canal.
After lunch, we’ll visit the Mu family residence, known as the "Forbidden City of Lijiang."
It’s a stunning architectural complex. So colorful!
Some small pavilions are tucked away in the greenery.
Water is always present in this type of residence.
We get to see a few rooms in the house—still colorful and cozy.
After this visit, we’ll say goodbye to the other travelers who shared these two weeks with us. The group worked really well together. We’re all thrilled about this time spent together, thanks to everyone’s good vibes, mutual respect, and of course, our guide Sébastien... Each of us will continue our journey separately—some heading farther north, others south, or simply returning to France.
For us, it’ll be discovering villages and the less touristy, more authentic side of China.
While waiting to return to our hotel in the evening, we’re going to wander around Shuhe in the old town. You can’t get lost—just follow the canals. Near the canal, we spot a well. There, we see the three water levels our guide Sébastien told us about.
The top level is reserved for drinking and must not be used for anything else.
The next level is for washing vegetables, and the last basin is for laundry.
The usage hours are very strict. Drinking water in the morning, other activities in the afternoon.
And since these basins are sloped, the current carries away the wastewater.
We also take a few photos of the motorbikes we come across. They’re fun with their decorative plushies.
And in the evening, at dinner, we’re going to cheat on Chinese cuisine—we’re having pizza.....
The next day, bright and early, we're already in the car. Our driver Suhe is super friendly and very careful.
Heading to the Blue Moon Mountain. We arrived early, but we weren't the first. The Chinese are early risers. There were already lots of them on-site. They came prepared with rain gear, even though we didn’t get a single drop of rain.
The yaks were already there too, ready for photos.
Even the sun showed up. We were lucky to have sunlit peaks—it was gorgeous.
The Blue Lake is definitely an artificial lake—or rather, a series of mountain lakes. Many small water reservoirs flow in cascades. It’s absolutely stunning!
And it’s still so well-maintained, really easy to access.
After this lovely visit, we continue our journey to the parking lot that will take us to the cable car up to the yak plateau. It takes twenty minutes to get up there. There are lots of clouds, so we can’t see much, and it’s pretty cold. Luckily, we’re well bundled up. But we come across several young couples taking their wedding photos. They must be freezing...
On the plateau, there are a lot of us—maybe too many to spot any yaks. We only see a few goats... and some horses.
We get to taste yak cheese, milk, and dried yak meat.
An hour and a half drive to reach the mountain village of Wumu. It’s really in the middle of nowhere, but it’s beautiful.
We’ll have lunch in this village but won’t stay long because the whole place is under construction. They’re installing a sewage system. It’s a massive job...
The menu: noodle soup and homemade jam-filled pastries.
And it’s farther on, on the other side of the river, where we’ll spend the next few days.
In a small village of about twenty families, clinging to the mountainside above the Yangtze. It’s an extraordinary place, breathtakingly beautiful.
The village isn't accessible by car, so we leave the car at the parking lot. Then a mule comes to pick up our luggage with the owner of the guesthouse where we're staying.
And we start the impressive descent that will take us to our guesthouse.
It's stunning, but thankfully we didn’t have to carry our luggage...
When we arrived, we were offered tea, nuts, peanuts, and clementines. The owners are lovely—attentive and always smiling.
We settled into our room. We weren’t expecting such a cozy, comfortable space in such a small village. The view of the river and mountains is incredible.
Everything is new, spacious, and spotless.
They offered to do our laundry, and the washing machine was at our disposal.
At 7 PM, dinner was served with a view of the mountains.
Everything was delicious.
Three meat dishes: beef, chicken, pork.
Three vegetable dishes: turnips and carrots, potatoes, zucchini.
All homemade.
And a small glass of corn liquor to help digestion—made by the grandfather.
Needless to say, we weren’t bothered by car noise at night. No noise at all. It’s almost eerie.
The next morning, the owner was busy preparing bread for breakfast. Big smile. The same warmth as always.
While the bread was baking, the owner offered to show us his beehives.
And his crops, his coffee plantations...
Then we sat down for breakfast.
Tea, locally produced coffee, homemade honey, fresh bread, farm eggs, sweet potato and squash, rice soup, and fruit. Nothing was missing. Everything was delicious.
We went down to the Yangtze River and to the small port that’s set up for river cruises, but at this time of year, navigation is banned—it’s too dangerous.
Then we started making our way back up to the guesthouse. The climb was exhausting, really exhausting. We knew it would be, of course... but it was quite the workout.
We took several breaks and eventually made it... thankfully, as you’d say...
On the other hand, I can’t seem to upload photos anymore... Sorry about that...
Courtyard interior and wood storage sheltered to prepare for winter.
Baskets for transport, widely used to carry vegetables.
Lunch at home and rest.
The next day after breakfast, the mule arrives to carry the luggage.
Luckily, because even without the luggage it’s still quite a workout.
But Baoshan will be our absolute favorite. A stunning village and an exceptional welcome.
We find our car in the parking lot above the village and continue on our way. And the road isn’t great. This hasn’t happened to us yet. But the asphalt has been badly damaged by recent rains—some sections are in really rough shape. And there are so many curves. We also pass huge herds of goats and sheep.
But we’ll soon arrive above Lugu Lake. A stunning lake surrounded by mountains—it has a bit of an Italian lakes vibe.
And it’s by the lake that we’ll set down our suitcases.
But first, we’re going for a walk on the lake in pig troughs. These are small boats that take tourists out on the water... we’re not the only tourists, but we’re the only Westerners.
We’ll do this excursion, which is pretty ordinary and not that interesting... but we just went with the flow.
After that, we drop our bags at Purmei Hotel and visit the museum dedicated to the Mosuo, an ethnic group uniquely led by women. It’s a matriarchal society—one of the few still existing today.
In this society, marriage doesn’t exist. Women choose their partners as they please and change them whenever they want. Children don’t know who their father is and are raised by their uncle.
The oldest grandmother makes decisions after consulting the women of the village.
And the grandmother lives in the most beautiful house. We’ll visit it. But unfortunately, I can’t upload any more photos—I’ve hit the limit of 300....
The next morning, at breakfast, we’re still the only Westerners. But even though we’re early, we’re not the only ones. Breakfast is Asian only. We still manage to find some jam, a few slices of toast, some hard-boiled eggs, and tea, of course. We sit down at a table with a Chinese family. They welcome us warmly with a few words and smiles. And when we leave the table, the whole family waves goodbye.
It’s 8:15 AM, and our driver, punctual as always, is already there.
Off to the Tibetan monastery of Zhamei. It’s stunning—everything is gleaming gold!
Several temples are gathered on the same site. The monks study, work, and pray there.
Next, we head to a market in the city center. It’s mostly dedicated to food products—yak meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables.
Lots of bicycle rickshaws that I photographed eagerly.
The welcome is always so friendly.
Then, we make our way to Lijiang. A stop along the way for lunch.
In Shuhe, we return to our hotel, The Bivou. We don’t have the same room, but it’s really nice too. The vibe is still just as friendly.
We continue exploring the area.
We cross the city of Lijiang, with 1,300,000 inhabitants. Lots of traffic. Frequent traffic jams. Then we head to the old village of Yuhu at the foot of Jade Dragon Mountain. Entry to this village costs 39 yuan per person. We take a shuttle that takes us to the village center. It’s a touristy village. There are plenty of shops of all kinds in the first part, and then, as you move away from the central area, it’s quiet. You can appreciate the architecture of the traditional houses, the peacefulness of the village, the villagers’ activities, the farming work, and the beauty of the site. The mountain is stunning, and it’s easy to walk around.
We continue our visits by heading to Baisha, a Naxi town. We leave the car at the entrance and set off on foot. Entry is free, so there are even more visitors—and shops. Too touristy. A shame, the town is a victim of its own success. We won’t linger.
So we return to Shuhe. We really love this little town. Our hotel is particularly well located, so it’s pleasant to stroll either on the lively, commercial side or on the quiet residential side, with its beautiful vegetable gardens and canals. It’s amazing.
The next day, we meet our driver at 3 p.m., and he takes us to the airport. Always punctual, always helpful, and always smiling.
And that’s how this beautiful Chinese interlude comes to an end.
We really loved it.
We’re already thinking about going back, and without a doubt, it’ll be with the agency Ciel Chine. Everything was perfect. China is vast—we’ve only seen a small part of it.
I have a practical question: how did you join a "Ciel Chine" group?
Did you choose your dates? Could you tell me more about making contact, bookings, transportation, etc.?
Feel free to send me a private message if you prefer.
Thanks in advance!
Larri
You can find all the information on their website Ciel Yunnan or Ciel Chine.
And you can contact them—they’re perfectly fluent in French and respond quickly.
We chose a small-group trip and added a few days just for the two of us.
Best regards
Thanks for your reply.
Of course, I checked the website, but my question is different.
Let me try to explain:
When you decided to go to China, I assume you contacted the agency and had travel dates in mind. Were those dates respected, or did you have to compromise on your dates to join a group that was still being put together? Could you walk me through the process, please?
Thanks in advance
OK, I get it. The agency offers several travel options.
If you want to join a group, the dates are already set. Otherwise, the agency can provide drivers and guides for a route you’ve chosen, at dates that work for you.
The proposed dates worked for me, so I signed up. First group trip for us. It was the same for the other people in the group too. There were 10 of us. It was perfect. In fact, we’re about to go again with this agency, in a small group as well. There are 5 of us so far, but the departure is guaranteed.
Have a good day.
Hi everyone, We're currently planning our itinerary for this summer (late July - August) in China. Our travel style is more backpacker-oriented we're used to…
I’m starting to think about a trip to Japan, though I haven’t yet decided on the exact duration or itinerary, and I have a few questions for those who know the country well or have traveled there recently.
First, about getting around: what do you think are the most economical and reliable ways to travel across Japan and move between cities? I’m thinking of trains, overnight buses, domestic flights, regional passes, etc. I’m not necessarily looking for the fastest option, but rather a good balance between cost, simplicity, and reliability.
I also have a question about the return ticket. Since I don’t yet know how long I’ll stay in Japan—or even if I’ll return directly to France (I might continue to another Asian country)—is it mandatory to have a return or exit ticket before entering Japan? Would a ticket to another Asian country suffice?
Regarding accommodation, I usually prefer staying in youth hostels rather than hotels. Are hostels easy to find all over Japan, including outside Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka? And what’s the average budget per night for something clean and well-located?
Finally, I’d like to get an idea of the overall budget for the trip. Is Japan still relatively affordable when traveling simply, or do expenses add up quickly? I’m mainly thinking about:
transportation between cities;
local transportation;
youth hostels;
food;
potential domestic flights.
My plan is to travel fairly freely, without necessarily booking everything in advance, so I can adjust my itinerary or stay longer in places I like.
If anyone has traveled this way in Japan, I’d love to hear about your experiences, tips, and maybe an idea of the daily budget to expect.
Hi everyone,
So, big departure for me next week—I can’t wait! +++
Here’s my itinerary; feel free to leave your comments. Just to let you know, skipping Jiuzhaigou was a choice on our part :/. And if you have any updated prices, since the ones I noted are from the internet and might not be current.
-21: Arrival at 16:25 in Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-22: Beijing Ming Tombs (20¥)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-23: Beijing
°Night train to Xi’an
-24: Xi’an -Terracotta Army (45¥ Steven, 90¥ me)
-Night market in the Muslim Quarter
°Xi’an Guoha Hotel Apartment
-25: Xi’an -Big Wild Goose Pagoda (31¥)
°Xi’an Guoha Hotel Apartment
-26: Xi’an -City Walls (20¥ Steven, 40¥ me)
°Night train to Chengdu
-27: Chengdu -Giant Panda Research Base (58¥)
°Hanting Hotel Chengdu Huayang Branch
-28: Chengdu -Qingyang Taoist Palace (5¥)
°Hanting Hotel Chengdu Huayang Branch
-29: Departure for Mount Emei
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-30: Mount Emei -Wannian Temple (180¥ me, 90¥ Steven)
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-31: Mount Emei
°Mount Emei Hongxiu Hotel
-1: Departure for Leshan
°Le Cheng Hotel
-2: Leshan -Leshan Giant Buddha (50¥ by boat)
°Le Cheng Hotel
-3: Departure for Chongqing
°Hanting Hotel Chongqing Chengjiaping Branch
-4: Departure for Dazu -Dazu Rock Carvings (80¥)
°Kaka Theme Apartment
-5: Departure for Chongqing
°Letu Hostel
-6: Chongqing -Eling Park
-Ancient town of Ciqikou
°Letu Hostel
-7: Chongqing -Hongyadong shopping street
°Letu Hostel
-8: Chongqing
°Night train to Zhengzhou
-9: Zhengzhou -Shaolin Temple (130¥)
°Love Home Apartment
-10: Zhengzhou -Mount Song Shan
°Night train to Beijing
-11: Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-12: Beijing
°The Sanlitun Inn
-13: Beijing -Great Wall of China (64¥ with bus)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-14: Beijing Summer Palace (40-50¥)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-15: Beijing -Forbidden City (80¥ with audio guide)
°The Sanlitun Inn
-16: Beijing
I’m currently in the process of booking my hotels.
I have a question about these two apps. I’m planning to use trips.com to book my trains (if I understood correctly, that’s the best way to do it).
Is there any advantage to booking hotels with trips.com, or can I keep using Booking? (I’m used to the interface.) My hidden question is whether it’ll work smoothly when I’m there (for new bookings or retrieving the ones I’ve already made).
I’m currently planning a trip to Japan with my two kids.
Before going any further, my main question is about the budget. While flights are pretty straightforward—just compare prices—when it comes to daily expenses, I have no idea what to expect.
We’re thinking of traveling between mid-July (around the 19th, give or take 2-3 days) and mid-August (returning by August 20th at the latest).
Duration: 15 days (though we could stretch it by 2-3 days if it makes sense price-wise).
Family of 4, including two kids aged 9 and 12.
Before we had kids, we used to travel pretty "rough" and book things on the spot (we often took basic flights), but this time, it might be trickier. That said, we’re not looking for luxury—just somewhere decent to sleep and shower so we can save money for as many activities and sightseeing as possible.
For those who’ve recently had a family trip like this or are familiar with Japan, I’d love any advice—especially what a reasonable daily budget might look like (or at least the absolute minimum to make the trip feasible).
Thanks in advance!
P.S.: I’ll admit I struggled a bit with the categories, so if this post needs to be moved, no problem! ;-)
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
Hi there,
I’m planning my trip for May. Here’s my itinerary for 4.5 days in Seoul:
May 5: afternoon at Mangwon Market, Mangridan-gil, Han River
May 6: Gyeongbokgung, Tongin Market & Seochon, Bukchon, Insadong, Jogyesa Temple, and Ikseon-dong
May 7: Namdaemun Market, Deoksugung Palace, stroll along Cheonggyecheon, Seoullo 7017, Hongdae
May 8:Changdeokgung + Changgyeonggung, Gwangjang Market, Jongmyo Shrine, Jongno Boulevard for the big parade
May 9:Morning in Gangnam, Bongeunsa, Namsangol Hanok Village, N Seoul Tower Plaza
What do you think of this itinerary? Is there anything I should add, remove, or swap out? I tried to keep travel time to a minimum, but I might be missing something. I’d love to hear all your thoughts—thanks!
Philippe
According to my calculations, I’ll be in Zhangjiajie on Monday, November 16th. I adjusted my itinerary to avoid the weekend.
I’m wondering:
1- Do I need to book the park entrance in advance (like, is there a visitor limit?)
2- I plan to take the elevator and maybe a cable car (I’ll walk the rest—I’m in good shape). Should I book those too, or can I sort it out when I arrive?
3- On Wednesday, November 18th, I’m aiming for Tianmen Mountain. Same question—do I need to reserve? I read it’s under construction right now. And apparently, it’s line C.
3 bis - Also, is it possible to go all the way to the top by bus only, without the cable car, and finish on foot?
Hi everyone, I’m preparing for a one-month trip in October. I’m traveling solo and would love to explore the countryside, but I’m also wondering if there are any themed urban hikes or walks. In Japan, I did some themed city tours, especially by bike.
Thanks for any tips you can share!
Marie
Hi,
Our trip is planned for 20 days in Japan next April. We have a free subscription that would allow us to use 35 GB (I’m a bit confused), but we also need to be able to make phone calls with a French couple traveling with us for a few days, and that seems impossible due to cost... Any solutions for using GPS while keeping those 35 GB? Used to traveling in Southeast Asia, we usually rely on local SIM cards. Is it easy to do the same in Japan?
Thanks for your help!
Best,
Tialou
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
I’ve booked my flight ticket to China, arriving in Hong Kong and departing from Chongqing.
I have 27 nights there.
Here’s my draft itinerary:
Hong Kong arrival (minimum 3 nights + 1 night for Macau)
Shenzhen (1 night – immigration, day and night city visit)
Guangzhou (2 nights – 2 days of sightseeing)
Yangshuo (3 nights – 2 full days)
Passing through Guilin (0 nights – 1 day)
Longsheng or Longji Rice Terraces Green (2 nights)
Sanjiang (1 night)
Kunming (1 night)
Dali (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Lijiang (2 nights – 1 day of sightseeing)
Shangri-La (1 night)
Chengdu (2 nights – 1 full day for Buddha)
Zhangjiajie (4 nights – 4 days)
Chongqing (2 nights)
I have an efficient travel style (I wake up very early and generally move quickly).
I don’t want to see the Stone Forest in Kunming because it looks too much like the Tsingy in Madagascar.
What do you think?
Thanks for any kind of feedback.
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
Hi,
I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed).
I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years.
Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.?
I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku.
Thanks.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change?
thanks
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
The jeweler sells pearl oysters—or not, it's a gamble....
And all kinds of fruits, vegetables, and fish.
And it’s still so well-maintained, really easy to access.
Everything is new, spacious, and spotless.
They offered to do our laundry, and the washing machine was at our disposal.
After breakfast, we set off to descend to the river, first through the village.
It’s a meeting spot for the villagers.
The Yangtze.
Refreshing break halfway through.
Courtyard interior and wood storage sheltered to prepare for winter.
Baskets for transport, widely used to carry vegetables.
Lunch at home and rest.
The next day after breakfast, the mule arrives to carry the luggage.
And it’s by the lake that we’ll set down our suitcases.
But first, we’re going for a walk on the lake in pig troughs. These are small boats that take tourists out on the water... we’re not the only tourists, but we’re the only Westerners.
We’ll do this excursion, which is pretty ordinary and not that interesting... but we just went with the flow.
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First time for me. Great choice!