Southern landscapes, northern wildlife: returning to South Africa
FR

Translated into English.

MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
We reach Cape Town, where it's impossible to take a photo without someone in it: first I take a photo of MYSELF, then I take a photo of YOU, and then YOU take a photo of ME, and so on... 😅 Not to mention the guy striking all sorts of poses just 20 cm from the edge of the cliff... with the strong gusts of wind... but no, no falls ! It goes on and on... I give up—there’ll be people in my photo!

We head back to the parking lot via the same path. The ostriches have come closer: Mr. and Mrs. are now just a few meters from the trail.



The sky is getting hazy, even overcast, and it’s getting late. We’ll call it a day for the hike. We set off again for Hout Bay along the west coast: wild beaches, an increasingly gray sky, a different atmosphere...





We finish with Chapman’s Peak Drive, unfortunately in the clouds. This road is a bit like the corniche roads on the French Riviera... but much shorter and a paid version!





Tonight, it’s the Bay Harbour Market, open every Friday and Saturday: in a huge warehouse, you’ll find stalls selling crafts, clothes, street food from all over, drinks, a live band, and entertainment (tonight it’s a drag queen show). It’s packed, and we struggle to find a spot to sit and eat our shawarma wraps.





Saturday 10/17: I won’t keep you in suspense any longer, Bruno ;) Unfortunately, the weather forecast was spot-on... it’s raining, and all the peaks are shrouded in clouds :/



We decide to cancel the hike to Lion’s Head (between the rain, slippery rocks, and—most importantly—seeing nothing... 🏴‍☠️).
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
I don’t know why, but I had a feeling this would go sideways 😉.

Yep, you can’t just walk up to a lion’s face that easily!! 🤪
KA Kate Globetrotter ·
We get to the Cape and there’s no way to take a photo without someone in it: first I’M taking a selfie, then I’M taking a photo of YOU, and then YOU’RE taking a photo of ME, and so on and so on...

A real pain... 😕
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
What made me laugh on Boulder's Beach platform... after a selfie, someone said apologetically while looking at the result: "Ooooh! But you can't see the penguins!" 😏
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
The unpredictability of outdoor activities...

Saturday (continued)

We considered going to Cape Town or doing the wine tasting in Constantia that we missed in Stellenbosch (but all things considered, we tried it at the restaurant 😏)... and in the end, we stayed put to read 🙂. During the day, the rain stopped, so we took the opportunity to take a little walk on Hout Bay beach and then into town (among other things, to buy a bottle of amarula, but if I had known, I would have waited until Satara where there are more bottle sizes!).

On the other side of the beach, the leopard guarding the entrance to Chapman's Peak Drive:



In hindsight, I think we should have gone for a walk near the harbor—we might have spotted some seals (actually, I remembered there could be seals in Hout Bay... but I completely forgot the "harbor" detail... thanks, Christelle, for giving me regrets! 😏).

Yesterday, I was craving a salad for tonight, but given today’s weather, it’ll be a burger by the fire instead...



... with a short but beautiful colorful moment.





Sunday, 18/10: A transition day. Our flight to Johannesburg is at 10 AM. One of our hosts misunderstood (wrongly... but it’s probably more my fault than theirs 😇) that we didn’t want breakfast, but in the end, they quickly made us a tomato and mushroom omelet. The flight (Flysafair) was on time... we landed at OR Tambo as planned, around noon.

For the rest, we’ll have to wait a few days. If you want the "uninterrupted story" version, it’s here. ... And I just realized I forgot to add the summary of this Cape Town part 😇 😕 Oh well, I’ll add everything at the end of the Kruger section!

SUMMARY A few regrets: The whales were very (too) far away (even though we know that when it comes to animals, luck plays a part). The hikes we couldn’t do (Jonkershoek, Lion’s Head).

And of course, we would have loved to have more time! In Hermanus (a town with a very peaceful atmosphere, by the way), to enjoy Kogelberg NR more. In Franschhoek, whose surroundings seem worth exploring and which we only glimpsed briefly, in the gray weather no less (plus, the accommodation was great!). In the Cederberg, if only to do at least one of the hikes near the lodge... and also to do nothing, it’s so beautiful and serene there.

Two favorites: the hike in Kogelberg and the mountain cedar/Cederberg. In the end, it’s the area near Cape Town that we liked the least (though it wasn’t bad): more urbanized, more crowded, less exotic.
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Hey Darn... no Lion's Head (you’re not cheap, Mountain Man!).

Cape Town is still a city with tourists...

Next time, you can venture a bit further off the beaten path.

Ndlelanhle ("safe travels" in Zulu)
HO Holigirl Veteran ·
Hello Muriel,

The colors of that sunset are stunning. One of my biggest discoveries in Southern Africa was amarula 😉 I brought some back from Namibia, but I just saw tonight that you can easily buy it online. And that’s a good thing because the bottle won’t last long. I also rediscovered Savannah Dry. I don’t know why I liked it in Namibia when I wasn’t that impressed with it in South Africa. I even wondered if it was the same thing. I’ll close this boozy parenthesis 😉
EL Ellobo Veteran ·
Hi Muriel, South Africa wasn’t the African destination I’d dreamed of. Bad memories from several trips to Southern Africa because of the Afrikaners—their behavior was pretty off-putting. Plus, Africa often means wild animals to me, and I’ve been so lucky on my travels—I’m afraid I’ll be disappointed by the South African parks (we’ve often had the animals all to ourselves). But wow! I have to admit, your photos of South Africa’s landscapes blew me away. So because of you, I might just change my mind. Thanks! See you,
BL Bluequark Veteran ·
Hi Muriel,

More great landscapes. It’s awesome that you’re taking us to places that aren’t often talked about. Thanks a lot!
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Cape Town is still a city with tourists...

That’s probably why it was our least favorite part of this southern region 😉
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
I haven't opened the bottle yet!!! (but it won't be long 😏). Having said that, I often find it tastes better there than once I bring it back (the travel euphoria, no doubt 😎).
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Let’s just say South Africa is still the easiest country to do self-drive safaris in 😛.

compared to Afrikaners, who can be pretty obnoxious in their behavior.

I think it’s important not to generalize, but one scene really stuck with me—it’s still etched in my memory: my first meal in South Africa (April 2009, at a restaurant near Hazyview). An elderly white man sitting alone at the next table called over the Black waiter and started yelling at him, hurling insults (I didn’t catch everything, but it was something about the meat not being cooked properly, which wasn’t even the waiter’s fault). The poor waiter just stood there, eyes glued to the floor, while the man kept berating him until the white owner stepped in to calm things down. Sure, in France too, you get rude, impolite customers, but what struck me was the sheer aggression in his tone and the blatant disrespect.

Anyway, end of the tangent—after that first night, I didn’t witness anything like that again 🙂.
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
That’s why travel journals are great (even for destinations or travel styles we’ll never actually do 😄).
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Hey

The "racial" situation still isn’t calm in SA... I put "racial" in quotes because let’s not forget: there’s no such thing as human races. homo sapiens originated in Africa. white isn’t a color—it’s a lack of pigmentation. "Miscegenation isn’t a historical accident—it’s an asset for human survival. In a world where simplistic, sometimes identitarian or obscurantist rhetoric is resurfacing, this message is crucial. Human biology tells a story not of separation or isolation, but of blending." (M Quintana)

Even today, some white South Africans (not just Afrikaners) will lament "the good old days" and say things that are really hard to hear. Anecdotes: An old guy in a cap, dressed in work overalls, told me, "You’re going to the Cradle of Humankind… don’t believe everything they say there." A woman said, "It’s not like it used to be…" Or things like, "Where there are cows, there are Black people," etc.

But also… More and more young people, Black and white, grabbing drinks together… "Mixed" spaces popping up, etc.

But then there’s also real disdain at gas stations—like that young Black guy with a nice car, making sure the attendant or server knew *he* was the important one. Or the outright racism between people from different linguistic communities… Sothos who don’t like Zulus, etc.

And… sadly… this kind of behavior isn’t unique to this country. Just look at France…

Anyway… There’s still work to be done, but since the 2000s—when I first started traveling in southern Africa—things *have* gotten better.

Sorry for kinda hijacking your thread… no hard feelings? Ndlelanhle
HO Holigirl Veteran ·
I haven't started the bottle yet!!! (but it won't be long 😏). Still, I often find it tastes better on the spot than once I bring it back (the travel euphoria, no doubt 😎).

Lucky you! 😏 Totally agree with you, but not this time 😉
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Africa = Wild animals, and I must say that in my travels I’ve really been spoiled, and I’m afraid I might be disappointed in South African parks.

The main advantage of South African parks is that they’re accessible to everyone.

They’re inexpensive compared to others, very well laid out, and easy to explore in a regular car—making them the most democratic parks in Africa.

And the wildlife is definitely there!

There can be a few crowds in certain spots in Kruger, but some photos from Tanzanian parks show it can be much worse elsewhere...

As for some Afrikaners, well, there are jerks everywhere—white, Black, mixed-race, Asian, you name it.

It didn’t particularly stand out to me. I was more struck in Zambia, where Black locals called me "Mama" and my partner "Boss"...

I was never called anything like that in South Africa.
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
It’s the area near Cape Town that we liked the least (though it didn’t displease us either): more urbanized, more crowded, less exotic.

That’s what’s holding me back from returning to Cape Town and the Garden Route.

I feel like it’s not as "wild" as what I usually look for.
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Sorry for slightly hijacking your posts... you won’t hold it against me, will you?

Not at all, Michel—I was planning to bring up this point (and the one about safety) at some stage, as some things really struck me...

Of course, South African society is far more complex than what you can grasp as a mere tourist. There are other countries in the world with greater inequalities, but in South Africa, since they’re essentially tied to skin color, certain things jump out at you right away. For instance, we only dealt with white owners at B&Bs (that doesn’t mean there aren’t accommodations run by Black people, but they’re in the minority... though I don’t know about the managers at Mountceder or the Kruger camps). Not a single white person along the streets or roads during rush hour—just groups of Black people walking or hitchhiking. That said, compared to 2009, the crowds in the parks seemed more diverse, even if the groups themselves weren’t exactly "mixed." One exception (sort of!) was Stellenbosch, a university town (though their amazing choir *is* multiracial 😉; okay, the conductor is... white ).

I also wondered about safety. Even though we never felt in danger (we followed our hosts’ advice), the vibe was pretty distinct, especially around Cape Town, with houses heavily barricaded and road signs like "Don’t stop! Crime area," etc. Is this insecurity real, or is it tinged with paranoia and exaggerated? (I admit, we didn’t test it , and I don’t have the answer.) But it feels like it casts suspicion on the vast majority of Black people because of a few bad apples.

That said, we were met with incredible hospitality everywhere—from owners, staff, Black, white, and coloured people alike. So warm and attentive at the B&Bs, and people always ready to help or lend a hand (even at the airport or car rental centers)... even in the Kruger camps! (Maybe a little less smiley, but never cold or rude.) So I’m really surprised by Holigirl’s take after her trip .
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
I get the feeling it's not as "wild" as what I usually look for.

Probably less than Tankwa... but it seems to me (from my research) that there are still some pretty wild landscapes around De Hoop or in the backcountry. Some folks on VF will have a much more grounded opinion than me 😉 ... and I admit I can't remember if you've already been there .
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I’ve already been to Cape Town, around Paternoster, the Cederberg, Agulhas, Swartberg Pass, the vineyards, ...

But I’ve never followed the coast and the classic Garden Route.

For the black-and-white side of things, for the first time, the ANC didn’t crush the competition in the elections.

Which led *Le Monde* to say:

In South Africa, the ANC suffers its sharpest electoral setback: “Black voters are now voting based on competence rather than the past or skin color”

It’s a huge step forward that bodes well for the country’s future.

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