Jour 1 (25 février 2009) : départ 18h40 de Bruxelles pour Hong Kong via Londres avec British Airways (13h30 de vol + 1h30 d'escale) 439 Euro
Jour 2 : arrivée à Hong Kong vers 16h15. Bus A21, 33HK$, trajet une petite heure. Man Hing Lung Hotel (Mirador Arcades) single 150HK$.
Jour 3 à 5 : séjour à Hong Kong. Journée à Macao 133HK$ aller/142HK$ retour, trajet 1 heure.
Jour 6 : bateau + bus de 8h20 pour Zhaoqing 220HK$, trajet 4h30 (route/paysages 0*) Hotel Lan Gong 138Y.
Jour 7 : séjour à Zhaoqing. Visite des Seven Stars Crags
Jour 8 : train de 9h46 pour Nanning (arrivée 19h30) 94Y en siège dur (pas de place assise ! 10 heures dans le wagon restaurant-fumoir !!!) (r/p 1*/2*). Ying Bin Hotel 80Y
Jour 9 : séjour à Nanning
Jour 10 : bus de 8h30 pour Detian 50Y trajet 4h30 (r/p 5*) hôtel Detian Luguan 60Y
Jour 11 : camionette pour Shuolong 20Y 25' + tricycle pour Xialei 30Y 30' + tricycle partagé pour Hurun 5Y 20' + bus pour Jingxi 10Y 1h + bus pour Baise 50Y 3h30 (r/p 5*) E Chang Binguan 70Y
Jour 12 : séjour à Baise
Jour 13 : bus pour Leye 34Y 4h30 (r/p 3*/4*) Jin Yuan International (!) Hotel 120Y
Jour 14 et 15 : séjour à Leye et excursion dans les environs (rivière Buliu - Dashiwei Tiankeng - Luomei Cave)
Jour 16 : bus pour Baise 34Y 3h30. You Yuan Hotel 70Y
Jour 17 : bus pour Bo'ai (Y'a plus rien à voir - barrage) 20Y 1h + camionette pour Funing 25Y 1h + bus pour Guangnan 26Y 3h15 (4*/5*) petit hôtel au carrefour près de la gare des bus 30Y
Jour 18 : aller/retour à Bamei bus 10Y 1h
Jour 19 : bus pour Qiubei 37Y 2h30 (3*/4*) hôtel Rui He 120Y
Jour 20 : aller/retour à Puzuhei bus 4Y 45'
Jour 21 : 2 bus pour Jianshui via Kaiyuan 63Y 7h (R/p 1*) hôtel Hong Yun (Tourism Designate Hotel !!) 60Y
Jour 22 à 24 : séjour à Jianshui + visite de Tuanshan bus N°4 2Y et tricycle 2Y retour par une camionette jaune 3Y jusqu'au pont des Deux Dragons et 2Y + aller/retour à Swallow Cave bus 10Y 1h
Jour 25 : bus pour Yuanyang 31Y 3h jusqu'à Nansha (r/p 3*/4*) + camionette 10Y 50' jusqu'à Xinjie (r/p 5*) hôtel Wang Yang Lou 40Y
Jour 26 à 27 : marché de Laomeng camionette 20Y 1h30 + quelques trajets en camionettes jusqu'à Laohuzui et Shengcun de 5Y à 10Y + à pied jusqu'a Bada
Jour 28 : 2 bus pour Shiping via Gejiu 56Y 4h30 (r/p 2*/4*) Shiping Hotel 80Y
Jour 29 : bus de 8h30 pour aller visiter en aller/retour Zhengying Cun 3Y 30'
Jour 30 : bus pour Tonghai 30Y 3h15 (r/p 4*) Yuheng Luguan hotel 50Y + visite du Xiushan
Jour 31 : séjour à Tonghai (aller dire bonjour à Albert)
Jour 32 : bus pour Kunming 35Y 2h30 (r/p 1*/2*) Hotel Camellia 100Y
Jour 33 et 34 : séjour à Kunming + visite du Xi Shan et du musée des ethnies
Jour 35 : bus de 10h pour Lijiang 191Y 9h15 (r/p 4*) Youth Hostel 80Y + restaurant Petit Lijiang
Jour 36 à 38 : séjour à Lijiang + visite des Gorges du Saut du Tigre (partage à 4 d'une camionette 200Y)
Jour 39 : bus pour Zhongdian 60Y 3h30 (4*/5*) Hostel Traveller Club 80Y
Jour 40 : bus pour Dali 112Y 6h45 (r/p 4*/5*) Hotel Guang Wu
Jour 41 et 42 : séjour à Dali et visite des marchés de Shaping et Zhoucheng
Jour 43 : bus N°8 1, 5Y 35' pour Xiaguan + bus de 9h00 (à la gare des bus près du terminus de la ligne N°8) pour Lincang 105Y 5h30 (r/p 4*/5*) Hong San Ye Binguan 60Y
Jour 44 : bus pour Lancang 57Y 8h30 (r/p 4*/5*) Hotel au carrefour près de la gare des bus 100Y
Jour 45 : aller/retour à Menglian bus 13Y 1h30
Jour 46 : bus pour Jinghong 46Y 5h30 (r/p 4*/5*) hôtel au fond d'une cour près du carrefour Xuanwei Dadao et Minhang Lu 80Y + restaurant Mei Mei Cafe
Jour 47 à 49 : séjour à Jinghong et excursions à Menghun - Jingzhzen - Damenglong/Manfeilong - Menglun - Ganlanba
Jour 50 : bus pour Kunming 197Y 11h30 (r/p 4*) Camellia Hotel 100Y
Jour 51 : bus pour Shilin 27Y 1h30 Tian Yu Hotel 100Y (à éviter le Youth Hostel, pas d'eau !!) + visite de la Forêt de pierre de 17h à 20h
Jour 52 : train pour Xingyi 38Y 4h30 (r/p 3*/5*) Hotel Tian Yu 120Y
Jour 53 : excursions aux Gorges de Manling bus N°4 1Y + petit tour en bus jusqu'à Yonghe (route/paysages 5*)
Jour 54 : bus pour Zhengfeng 40Y 2h + bus pour Huangguoshu Falls 40Y 2h45 (r/p 5*) hôtel à gauche en descendant du parking 60Y
Jour 55 : bus pour Anshun 11Y 1h + bus pour Guiyang 35Y 2h30 Hotel Mingzhu 128Y; à voir : église catholique de style sino-gothique
Jour 56 : train (sleeper) de 10h05 pour Huaihua 120Y 7h (r/p 3*/5*) Huai Tie Hotel 128Y
Jour 57 : bus pour Fenghuang 32Y 2h30 (r/p 4*) hôtel dans un ensemble de cours à droite avant le pont 100Y
Jour 58 : séjour à Fenghuang
Jour 59 : bus pour Huaihua 33Y 2h30 (r/p 4*) Hotel Xiong Feng 168Y
Jour 60 : train de nuit sleeper de 17h30 pour Shenzhen 405Y
Jour 61 : arrivée à la gare de Shenzhen-Ouest à 10h40 et de là 3 heures de bus + métro pour arriver à Tsim Sha Tsui
Jour 62 (27 avril 2009) : retour à Bruxelles.
Cet itinéraire a été réalisé sans trucage ni produit dopant (la teneur en alcool des bières chinoises ne risque guère de vous faire rouler sous la table mais méfiez-vous quand même de l'alcool de riz). Les conditions météorologiques furent dans l'ensemble très favorables. Malgré l'état de certaines routes aucun bus n'a connu de crevaison. Aucun animal n'a été maltraité durant ce voyage.
"Les Chinois parlent très fort, de façon assourdissante, harcelante et ininterrompue, comme si personne ne les écoutait jamais et qu'il leur faut crier pour se faire entendre. La radio et la télévision marche toujours à plein volume. Pourquoi ? Sont-ils tous affligés de surdité congénitale ou s'agit-il simplement d'une habitude passablement détestable ? Ils laissent les portes ouvertes - c'est une habitude nationale.
Les Chinois passent leur temps a cracher. Ils se raclent la gorge si bruyamment que la conversation devient inaudible - on dirait le bruit d'un motoculteur ou de quelqu'un qui nettoie une gouttière, ou encore les derniers litres d'eau d'un jaccuzzi en train de se vider. Ils aspirent avec leurs joues : Kurrrkh! puis ils grimacent, mettent leurs dents en position et se penchent. Vous vous attendez à un jet d'au moins cinq mètres, comme un cow-boy dans la pampa, mais non, ils ne lui impriment aucune force. Ils crachent rarement à plus de quelques centimètres. Ils ne crachent pas juste et loin, ils crachent vers le bas; voilà la différence culturelle essentielle que je mis un an à découvrir en Chine. Ce n'est pas un tir net en plein dans le crachoir, c'est une dégoulinade qui coule à l'extérieur de ce répugnant réceptacle. Ils se plient en deux lorsqu'ils crachent, avec une flexion des genoux et une courbure de l'échine en guise de préliminaire. Il n'y a rien d'agressif. C'est presque silencieux. Ils laissent tomber le glaviot et poursuivent leur chemin. Bien sur c'est un pays surpeuplé et il est impossible de balancer un mollard sans taper sur quelqu'un.
Personne ne converse jamais normalement au téléphone en Chine. C'est toujours des hurlements."
Paul Théroux - La Chine à petites vapeurs
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
Je vois que "la Chine à petite vapeur est toujours ton livre de chevet"
Écrit en 1986 et pourtant la partie que tu cites est pour le moment encore intemporelle.
Pour combien de temps encore ?
Je viens de regarder un reportage sur Arte " Les demoiselle de Nankin"
A voir absolument. Rediffusion le jeudi 7 mai à 10h50 et le 18 mai à 1h40
http://www.arte.tv/fr/semaine/244, broadcastingNum=1028038, day=6, week=19, year=2009.html
J'ai qq questions mais c'est pas pressé.
Tonghai et ses alentours valent-ils le coup ?
Et Puzhehei ? il me semble avoir lu des avis négatifs récents ?
Je vois par contre que tu n'es pas resté longtps à Lijiang & Shangri La (Zhongdian c'est la mm chose si je ne me trompe pas ?). 1 journée là bas t'ont suffit à en faire le tour? Je pensais rester 2j/3j ds chacune des villes, qu'en penses tu ? Pas de risque d'ennui ? :)
"Je vois que "la Chine à petite vapeur est toujours ton livre de chevet"
J'ai refilé ce livre à Yangguizi lors de notre rencontre à Shanghai en Décembre 2007. J'espère qu'il a eu le temps de le lire avant sa mort car il y aura trouvé une vision de la Chine assez semblable à la sienne.
"Les demoiselle de Nankin" sur Arte.
Merci pour l'info. Je pense avoir déjà vu ce reportage où malheureusement la ville de Nankin/Nanjing - que j'aime beaucoup comme grande ville chinoise - n'apparaît pas vraiment. Rappelons que Nankin/Nanjing fut le théâtre d'un des plus atroces massacres durant l'occupation japonaise en 1937.
J'ai qq questions mais c'est pas pressé.
J'attends tes questions avec impatience 😉
Tonghai et ses alentours valent-ils le coup ?
J'ai beaucoup aimé le Xiushan au Sud de la ville dont le centre est en pleine rénovation. J'y ai également rencontré Albert (renseigné dans le Lonely planet) par hasard dans le Xiushan. J'ai mangé chez lui à deux reprises et ai eu le plaisir d'assister/participer à sa leçon d'anglais à de très jeunes enfants (4 à 6 ans). Un de ces moments magiques d'un voyage. Dans les environs de Tonghai il y a la vieille (et tout à côté une très grande nouvelle) mosquée de Najiaying - ville sociologiquement intéressante - difficilement visitable car transformée en école coranique pour jeunes filles.
Et Puzhehei ? il me semble avoir lu des avis négatifs récents ?
Oui les miens ! 160Y de droits d'entrée pour un lieu naturel bien trop envahi/marqué par des constructions et activités humaines. Il se pourrait que les environs méritent mieux que ce que j'ai vu : un gigantesque plan d'eau (1 heure de barque aller) et deux grottes dont l'une faussement bouddhiste. Mais peut être qu'au moment de l'éclosion des lotus le plan d'eau est de toutes beauté ?
Y a t'il d'autres questions ? Non ? Et bien merci et à une prochaine occasion 😎
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
Oui un superbe voyage; probablement mon plus beau en Chine. Le Yunnan et aussi le Guangxi sont des lieux "magiques"; les paysages sont fabuleux et les gens très sympathiques. Comme je le dis souvent : "je parle pas chinois mais je rigole chinois" et par là ils savent rigoler; il suffit de les observer discrètement, sourires et rires sont présents bien souvent malgré la rudesse de la vie.
"Je vois par contre que tu n'es pas resté longtps à Lijiang & Shangri La (Zhongdian c'est la mm chose si je ne me trompe pas ?)"
En ce qui concerne Lijiang tu vois mal puisque j'y suis resté 3 jours pleins en ce compris l'excursion jusqu'aux Gorges du Saut du Tigre visitées en un aller/retour depuis Lijiang dans la journée; il faut compter environ 1h30 à 2h pour y aller; choisir son côté car aller des deux côtés nécessitent un long trajet pour pouvoir franchir le fleuve; je suis allé du côté Sud, droit d'entrée 50Y et compter 1 heure de marche jusqu'au point le plus étroit des gorges; il y a un autre point de vue de l'autre côté (au Nord du fleuve) plus facilement accessible en véhicule car la "nouvelle" route passe de ce côté.
Malgré l'invasion touristique très impressionnante j'ai bien aimé Lijiang. Visiter la vieille ville de 7 heures (aube) à 8 heures - 8 heures et demie. Après c'est Disneyland. Je recommande le restaurant petit Lijiang.
En ce qui concerne Zhongdian (que je me refuse d'appeler Shangri La - quoique - car le "vrai" Shangri La pour moi je lai "découvert" à Bamei; et pour ce dernier lieux je suis en accord avec le Lonely planet mais pas vraiment pour le reste - je m'en suis déjà expliqué dans un autre message et j'y reviendrai peut être encore) tu as bien vu. Il y faisait mauvais (neige en repartant dès le lendemain) et l'altitude (3.500M) m'oppressait. Sinon le lieux est magique et l'architecture des maisons assez originale mais de là à qualifier un lieux où on se les gèle de Shangri La et bien c'est pas pour moi.
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
tres beau circuit mais je suis impressionné par ta capacité a changer de ville aussi vite.
moi dans mon dernier voyage, j'ai adoré mais un peu regretté d'avoir bougé si vite car dans le guizhou il y a vraiment bcp de choses a decouvrir et de rencontrer des chinois tres gentils et serviables.
Après chacun de mes voyages j'ouvre un message avec l'itinéraire et des d'informations pratiques. A chaque fois on me fait presu'à chaque fois ce type remarque :
Je vois que t'as pris des notes...... J'espère que tu as eu le temps de regarder un peu autour de toi............... Ce n'est pas une description de voyage que tu nous fais, c'est un relevé de comptes. ton récit () ne dit rien de l'inde du sud, ni de ce que tu as vu et vécu.....
C'est vrai que j'aime beaucoup bouger, aller d'un lieu à l'autre. J'aime être sur la route et comme le disait en son temps le Lonely Planet : "Going there is half the fun".
J'aime pas trop rester dans un même lieu. Il y en a que je visite comme je regarde un film en 1h30, d'autre où je reste un après-midi et le soir venu je me dis qu'y rester un jour de plus ne m'apportera rien de plus. Une grande ville a généralement plus de chance de m'y voir m'y attarder car je sais que je n'aurais jamais assez de temps que pour en faire le tour dans sa totalité. A commencer par ma ville natale, Bruxelles, où j'aime revenir et où je découvre toujours quelque chose.
Bien sûr je regrette souvent de ne pas être resté plus longtemps dans un lieu qui m'a enchanté mais comme le dit si bien Shashi Tharoor dans son livre "Show business" : "Il faut avoir des regrets. Une vie sans regrets est une vie vécue sans introspections, sans interrogations. Ce n'est pas une vie digne d'être vécue." Et puis ces regrets sont une bonne motivation pour me donner envie d'y retourner.
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
tu as raison, si je n'avais pas de regret je ne serais jamais retourné en chine depuis 2000.
en tout cas, je compte retourner dans le guizhou pour visiter les lieux que je n'ai pas vu et rencontrer des personnes adorables en esperant que le developpement ne les change pas.
En rangeant mon fourbi et en re-voyageant en chambre dans la Chine du Sud-Ouest, je tombe sur deux choses :
1. le livre COULEURS TRIBALES DE CHINE - Yunnan-Guizhou de Patrick Bernard et Michel Huteau aux éditions ANAKO - Mémoires de l'Humanité (phoos attachées)
2. il me revient à l'esprit le documentaire de Thomas Lavachery (petit-fils dHenri Lavachery) sur les Moso du lac Lugu - détails dans le lien suivant
En espérant que cela t'intéressera (en plus de faire remonter mon message )
Bonne journée.
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
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Hi,
I’ve always been used to exchanging my money (€) in town no matter the country (with a "mini exchange" at the airport if needed).
I can’t find any recent posts on this topic from the last few years.
Does anyone have any insights on this? Intrinsic benefits, best places to exchange, etc.?
I arrive at Tokyo Haneda on a Friday around 12:30 PM, and my first night is very close to Shinjuku.
Thanks.
Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12.
I hope these notes help other travelers!
CHINA
General
You’ll need to download and set up a few apps:
- Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip)
- Didi for taxis
- Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways)
- A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results)
- Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy.
- HelloRide for bikes
- Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things.
- HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats)
- Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city.
For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).
For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.
Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet.
Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out.
Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.
Shanghai
In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.
Suzhou
Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town.
The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).
Beijing
Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully.
Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off.
Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!
Shapotou Desert
Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant.
The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example.
We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.
Zhongwei
Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.
Xi’an
Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly.
We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice.
Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down.
45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up.
We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day.
In the city, check out...
Chengdu
Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill.
Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out.
Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights.
Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.
Kunming
The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us.
All the big malls are good for shopping.
Dali
We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that.
The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.
Hekou (Vietnam border)
Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.
VIETNAM
General:
- You’ll need the Grab app for taxis
- Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead.
- Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash
Lao Cai
2 km between the border and the train station.
The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.
Hanoi
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think).
Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long
Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick
This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.
Tu Long Bay
We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.
Phong Nha
If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves.
There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops.
Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)
Da Nang
Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour).
The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.
Hoi An
45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot.
Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.
Ho Chi Minh City
Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go.
The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.
Can Tho
Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.
Chau Doc
No Grab in the city, but regular taxis.
One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon.
250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike)
The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate.
Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep
Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.
The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).
CAMBODIA
General:
- Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.
Phnom Penh
For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere.
Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example.
The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.
Siem Reap
Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride.
Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise.
Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas.
By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour.
Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere.
Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours.
If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon.
For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones.
Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours.
Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap)
Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city.
Show tip: The Phare Circus
Hey there,
In the sea of VPNs, I'm looking for one to use in China for just a month (free or paid). Which one should I pick? All the ones I've found are for several months or even a year.
Has anyone taken the bus recently, especially the Busda bus from Dongsi subway station to Mutianyu or the special tourist bus from Qianmen to Mutianyu? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback!
I’m traveling solo to China on September 18th and I’m completely overwhelmed by all the info out there.
This isn’t my first trip, but it’s still tough to make choices, so I’m open to outside perspectives.
This time, the plan is southern Kyushu with a slightly more off-the-beaten-path twist.
I’m not sure if you’ll be able to help since I’m skipping some of the classics in Kyushu, but you never know.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether this itinerary is realistic in terms of time spent in each place, travel time, and the overall pace of the road trip. Just to note, I already have my translated driver’s license.
Here’s the itinerary:
- **Day 1:** YAMAGA / overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto
Depart from Osaka by train early in the morning to Kumamoto, pick up the rental car, then drive to Yamaga for a visit. Overnight in Yamaga or Kumamoto.
- **Days 2–4:** HITOYOSHI / overnight in Hitoyoshi
Drive to Hitoyoshi for 3 days and 3 nights, including a visit to the town, nearby waterfalls, a walk along the Kuma River, a tea producer visit, and some craft activities.
- **Day 5:** AYA / overnight in Miyazaki
Drive to Aya, visit the town, craft activities, the forest, and the suspension bridge.
- **Day 6:** AOSHIMA - NICHINAN COAST / overnight in Miyazaki
Udo Shrine + Aoshima + scenic drive along the coast.
- **Day 7:** MIYAKONOJO / overnight in Shibushi
Drive to a waterfall, then continue along the Nichinan Coast if there’s anything left to see, or visit Kojima Island.
- **Day 8:** SHIBUSHI
Walk around the port and along the Osumi Peninsula coast, maybe as far as the Kishira/Hetsuka coast, or visit a black pork producer, a market gardener, or a tea producer. Overnight at a farm?
- **Day 9:** KANOYA / overnight in Kagoshima
Visit Ogawara Waterfall, Nishiharadai Park, and Kannon Cave, then Sugawara Shrine, followed by the drive to Kagoshima.
- **Day 10:** KAGOSHIMA / overnight in Kagoshima
Explore the city + whisky distillery in Hioki.
- **Days 11–12:** KOSHIKISHIMA / 2 nights in Koshikishima
- **Day 13:** AKUNE OSHIMA / overnight in Akune
Ferry, then drive to Akune Oshima with a stop at Sendai Taki.
- **Days 14–15:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Amakusa
Drive via Nagashima and visit Shimoshima (Amakusa).
- **Day 16:** AMAKUSA / overnight in Fukuoka
Drive back toward Kumamoto with stops along the way, return the rental car, then take the train to Fukuoka.
- **Days 17–18:** FUKUOKA CITY / overnight in Fukuoka
Possible half-day excursion to Nokonoshima, Munakata, or Nanzoin.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Too ambitious?
I could add an extra day but would prefer not to if it means less rushing around.
Hi,
July 2026: I’m writing to you from Dali.
First, I got scammed on Booking—AI-retouched photos. No tourists at this hotel (Yishanju Designer Hotel), and the reality was horrible: dirty, with a disgusting breakfast. It’s better to use Trip.com here.
Next, the old town was an infernal cacophony, packed with tourists who shoved past without a care. Some vendors harassed you to buy things. All the stalls sold the same cheap plastic junk or other uninteresting stuff. The beautiful scenery was ruined by vendors lining 100% of the alleys. Impossible to walk, crushing heat, nothing good to eat except fresh fruit. Horrible experience.
Day 2: We went to Cangshan Mountain by cable car—the ride was short and nothing spectacular. We were at 2,600 m.
My plan was to see Erhai Lake. Unfortunately, I followed the advice of an AI chatbot: take the boat at Langkan Dock. The Didi dropped us off in the nearest area, which was full of charming little alleys but packed with Chinese tourists. The three-wheeled yellow cabs zoomed through the narrow streets, forcing you to hug the walls, on top of the scooters and other pedestrians to deal with. Crossing the neighborhood was hellish and suffocating. Once out, we hit the "corniche," which was also packed with Chinese tourists. The lake’s edge was all pebbles, and everyone was standing around taking photos. I was with my 5-year-old son. I would’ve liked to sit down and let him play with stones by the water, but it was clear we didn’t belong. They were even shoving each other for a shot! There were no boats in sight. In short, we’d had enough, and there was nothing interesting there either.
On the way back, we had to cross that maze again under the scorching sun. My son was braver than me—I even had a little dizzy spell from all the chaos. Add to that Dali’s altitude (2,200 m), so altitude insomnia, fatigue, and vulnerability during the day...
The restaurants weren’t inviting—the staff served sticky rice in a little bucket. The dishes were wrapped, and you had to figure it out yourself. After that, they ignored you completely, even if you were the only tourist.
On the 3rd day, it was time to leave for Shaxi. I hope to see beautiful villages. But honestly, I’m exhausted by this atmosphere where everything is complicated, communication is never smooth, noise is everywhere, and the behavior of some Chinese people is abusive...
Silver lining: not a drop of rain in 4 days and blue skies.
I couldn’t visit the villages in southern Yunnan because of rain and storms there...
But I was expecting to see a few more tourists.
Hi everyone,
To simplify logistics, I'm considering renting a car for 5/6 days in the Japanese Alps before heading to Kyoto solo.
Is driving difficult or even risky in this region?
Thanks for your feedback!
Tara
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train.
On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night.
On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku:
- 2 nights in the Iya Valley
- Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights.
- Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka.
We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip:
- Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita
- Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro
- Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD
- Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening
We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy...
I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving...
Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu.
For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)?
Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot?
For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
I saw there are several "authentic" villages about 90/100 km from Beijing.
Including: Lingshui, Liuliqu, Sangyu, Miaoying, and Cuandixia.
Has anyone visited any of them? I was thinking of choosing Cuandixia—what do you think?
Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone!
It seems there’s a flea market in Tianjin that’s way more interesting than the one in Beijing. I’ve been searching online but can’t find the right one… The one I’m looking for is called gu wan shi chang (my PC won’t display the Chinese characters…). Does anyone have the address and has anyone been there before? The one in Beijing has lost a lot of its charm over the past 10 years, so I wanted to find another. Thanks!
Hi,
My departure is coming up soon—two months backpacking in Taiwan, so much to discover! I’d love to hear about your travel experiences.
My main interests are meeting people, understanding how things work, hiking, and nature in general. I’ve also done a lot of reading about Taiwan’s complex situation.
I do stone sculpture.
I also want to visit Orchid Island for its history.
Marie
I’m looking for advice from seasoned travelers about a roughly one-month trip to Japan.
From late October to late November 2026.
We often travel in Southeast Asia but have never been to Japan.
Based on what I’ve read, I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- Is traveling day-to-day, without booking hotels or trains in advance, possible in Japan?
(I’ve read many travel journals and blogs that say everything was booked way in advance… but that’s not how we usually travel.)
- Will the Japan Rail Pass be worth it for us?
(According to an old simulator, I’m looking at around 400 € for trains compared to 570 € for the JRP.)
Here’s our rough itinerary (which may change):
- Arrival Osaka: 3 nights with Nara
- Hiroshima and Miyajima Island: 3 nights
- Kurashiki or Naoshima: 2 nights
- Himeji: 1 night
- Kyoto: 4 nights
- Kanazawa: 2 nights
- Takayama and Shirakawa-go: 3 nights
- Around Mount Fuji: 3 nights
- Tokyo with Nikko: 6 nights (no theme parks)
Departure from Tokyo
I booked my trip from May 5 to 26, 2027. I’m starting to plan my itinerary and look for hotels (I know it’s early!). While I’ve found some in Seoul and Busan, I’m noticing that elsewhere—like Yeosu—most hotels aren’t available (on Booking.com, for example, almost all are unavailable). AI tells me not to worry because hotels in South Korea only open bookings 6 months in advance, so it’s normal to see most of them unavailable on booking sites.
Could you confirm this for me and, of course, reassure me (!)? Thanks so much.
philippe
We’re back from a one-month trip to China and wanted to share our itinerary. Hopefully, this can give future travelers some ideas for exploring this beautiful country.
Beijing → Temple of Heaven / Forbidden City
Jinshanling → Great Wall
Zhangjiajie → Tianmen Mountain and Heaven’s Gate
Wulingyuan → Avatar Mountains / sandstone pillars
Fenghuang → riverside houses
Ping’an → terraced rice fields
Tiantouzhai → village / rice terraces
Yangshuo → Li River / karst mountains
Shanghai → skyline with the Oriental Pearl Tower
Our travel journal is available on our travel journal, written day by day. You’ll find lots of photos and some travel tips there.
I’m starting to look at neighborhoods in Seoul, and I’m leaning toward staying in a hotel in Insa-Dong—I’ve spotted one really close to Unhyeongung.
Is this a good area—nice and convenient for exploring the city?
Otherwise, I’ve also found another hotel in Yongsan-Gu, right near the station of the same name. Is that station useful for getting around Seoul?
Since I’ll be in South Korea for nearly two months, I plan to spend at least a week in Seoul to recover from jet lag (it takes me a while to adjust...). So, I’d love a neighborhood that’s pleasant and a hotel not too far from a subway station.
Hi there,
I’d like to do this cycling route over 2 or 3 days. I’m struggling to figure out and find a (good) bike rental that lets me start in Onomichi and drop off in Imabari. Can anyone help with great tips for rentals and accommodations along the route? How do I get back to Onomichi afterward?
Next year, we’re celebrating 20 years of marriage (and travel 🙂), and we’re looking for something new, pretty legendary, and something the teens will enjoy too.
The family council has settled on Japan for now. And it’d have to be a summer trip—no choice there.
The catch: I keep reading that August isn’t the right season for southern Japan. It’s hot, humid, and there’s a risk of typhoons… Okay, but what does that *actually* mean in practice? Are there any travelers who’ve been there during this time? Is it *that* unbearable?
We’re pretty familiar with Southeast Asia—last year, we dealt with scorching heat in Vietnam and insane humidity, plus a typhoon we experienced from a distance, and visiting Angkor in the blazing sun. Is it worse than that?
I’m back with my detailed itinerary for 20 days in South Korea—it’s my first trip to the country. Our idea is to experience a more rural and cultural Korea. Here’s the rough plan: Seoul for 4 nights at the start and 1 night at the end, Gurye for 4 nights, Suncheon for 4 nights, Namhae for 4 nights, and Gyeongju for 2 nights. The goal is to pick a base and explore the surrounding areas. What do you think of this itinerary? Anything you’d change?
thanks
hi everyone, we're heading out for a 12-day trek in the Japanese Alps. We're bringing freeze-dried meals like we always do. We just found out that importing meat is banned, even freeze-dried. Is that true? We already bought them. They're commercially made freeze-dried meals. Online, it's not specified that they have to be "commercially made" because you can make your own freeze-dried food. And since we've heard they're really strict in Japan, can anyone confirm this for us? thanks
I haven’t found what I’m looking for despite my searches!
For a 15-day trip next spring, I’d like to buy a card (preferably an eSIM, but a physical SIM is fine too) that also lets me make calls in the country (to contact a hotel, a tourist spot, etc.).
You can easily find options just for data, but I haven’t come across any that include calls, texts, or even MMS.
Could you recommend something?
hi there
I’m planning a trip in September—here’s my rough itinerary. What do you think? Is it easy to rent a car to get around between my stops? Thanks so much!
Philippe
StopNightsFull daysSeoul44Gurye (Jirisan)43Suncheon43Namhae43Gyeongju21Seoul1—
We’re planning a 17-day trip to South Korea in October 2026 with my husband and our daughters, who’ll be 9 years old.
I’d love to get your thoughts on our draft itinerary.
First, some key details:
1/ Jeju Island is a must for us. I’ve personally dreamed of going there for years after reading a novel about it.
2/ Our girls are used to road-trip style travel since they were born, so this kind of trip won’t be an issue for them.
3/ We plan to travel by train, except on Jeju where we’ll rent a car (we already have an international driver’s permit).
Itinerary:
Seoul: 1 arrival day at 10 AM + 4 full days
Gyeongju: 2 days
Busan: 3 days
Jeju: 4 days
Seoul: 2 days
Hi there,
My girlfriend (23) and I (24) are heading to Japan for the first time from October 20th to November 6th. Here’s our itinerary:
6 nights in Tokyo
1 night in Hakone (ryokan already booked)
4 nights in Kyoto (hotel already booked)
2 nights in Osaka
4 nights back in Tokyo
I’d like to book hotels for Tokyo (both stays) and Osaka, but I’ve gotten so many different recommendations.
I’ve read that Shinjuku is the place to be for its huge hub, accessibility, and things to do, but I’ve also heard about Shibuya, Asakusa, and Ueno.
I’ve looked at hotels, and first off, I’m surprised by the prices compared to what I’ve seen on forums (I guess inflation’s hit here too… and maybe I’m late to the booking game?). I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the options.
For our first stay in Tokyo, I’d prefer a hotel (not a residence or Airbnb) since we’ll be arriving at night, and it’s our first time in Japan. It’d be great to have a place with a reception, staff who speak at least a little English, and can give us some guidance. For the second stay, we could consider other options if it’s better.
Budget-wise, we can go up to 150–180 € per night, but if we can save some money to spend elsewhere, that’d be amazing!
I’m open to all recommendations, hotel suggestions, or any other tips for Tokyo (first stay), Osaka, and Tokyo (second stay).
Hi there,
I’m getting ready for a classic tourist trip to China in May 2026.
The "Terres Lointaines" itinerary looks good to me, and the price is interesting.
Has anyone traveled with them before? Any feedback?
Is there a better option?
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences on this!
Michel