Après avoir fait la Namibie en 2007, nous (4 adultes) avions envie de faire le Botswana en self drive. La lecture de plusieurs récits de membres du forum a fini par nous convaincre de tenter l’expérience.
Nous avons donc acheté nos billets d’avion, nous partons du 14 septembre (arrivée à Johannesburg le 15/09 à 9h00) au 2 octobre (départ de Johannesburg le 01/10 à 20h00) soit 17 jours sur place.
Pour le 4x4, après plusieurs devis, nous pensons le prendre chez AJC4x4. En revanche, on hésites toujours entre le toyota hilux ou le Defender et les avis lus sur ce forum sont assez partagés.
Nous avons commencé à faire notre itinéraire et nous aurions voulu avoir votre avis sur celui-ci :
J1 Départ de paris à 20h20
J2 Johannesburg - Mokopane
J3 Mokopane - Serowe - Rhino karma
J4 Kharma rhino - Kubu island - Nxai pan
J5 Nxai pan (baine's baobab) - Sua pan (Makgdagadi basin) - Nata
J6 nata - victoria falls
J7 Victoria falls - chobe (partie river front)
J8 Chobe river front- chobe savuti
J9 Chobe savuti - Moremi (kwai)
J10 Moremi (kwai) - moremi (xakanaxa)
J11 Moremi (xakanaxa) - moremi (third bridge)
J12 Moremi (third bridge) - Maun
J13 Maun - (survol de l'okavango en avion )
J14 Maun - khalari game reserve
J15 Khalari game reserve
J16 khalari game reserve - Gaboronne
J17 Gaboronne - Johannesburg
J18 Johannesburg
J19 Paris
Nous avons acheté le petit futé (un peu léger) et nous venons de recevoir le Bradt mais pas encore eu le temps de le potasser.
Nous sommes ouverts à toutes critiques, peut être avez-vous des variantes plus intéressantes et/ou moins fatigantes. Certains sites méritent peut être plus ou moins de tps.
Merci d’avance pour vos retours et merci déjà pour les divers témoignages laissés sur le forum qui nous aident à préparer ce voyage.
Dans l’attente de vous lire…
Mélanie, Nadine, Romain et Damien
Beau voyage en perspective…
Le Defender est mieux armé qu'un Hilux de série.
J4 Kharma rhino - Kubu island - Nxai pan
Journée irréaliste. La nuit à Khubu Island, ça serait déjà pas mal.
J6 nata - victoria falls
J7 Victoria falls - chobe (partie river front)
Ça va être dur en 2 jours. Là vous avez 0 temps à Vic Falls, et des frais et complications pour passer le 4x4 au Zimbabwe pour juste une nuit.
J'irais dormir deux nuits à Kasane en consacrant une journée à l'A/R Vic Falls avec un lodge ou camp.
J8 Chobe river front- chobe savuti
Pour être à Savuti le soir, il ne reste pas de temps pour le River Front. Et quand faites-vous le boat cruise ? un must !
J9 Chobe savuti - Moremi (kwai)
J10 Moremi (kwai) - moremi (xakanaxa)
J11 Moremi (xakanaxa) - moremi (third bridge)
J12 Moremi (third bridge) - Maun
OK dans Moremi. Mais il faut faire extrêmement vite pour réserver les camps. Il est déjà peut-être trop tard pour obtenir ce que vous voulez.
J13 Maun - (survol de l'okavango en avion )
Là par contre, trop de temps. Le survol peut se faire la veille au soir en arrivant de Moremi. Pas besoin de deux nuits à Maun.
J14 Maun - khalari game reserve
J15 Khalari game reserve
J16 khalari game reserve - Gaboronne
Quels camps ? Il y a une distance énorme entre CKGR nord et sud. En 2 nuits dans le parc, ça ne passe pas (moyenne à prévoir, 30 km/h maxi).
J'ai bien peur qu'il faille faire des choix déchirants…
Ce me semble dense mais équilibré et faisable.
Une remarque: si je comprend bien vous décollez à 20h de JNB le jour 18? Avez-vous une raison qui m'échappe d'être à Gaborone dès le J16 au soir?
Cette ville présente peu d'intérêt et vous erez alors à seulement 500 kms de JNB.
Vous pourriez tenter à la place une traversée nord-sud du CKGR et rentrer en RSA par Khutse.
Le Bradt est excellent pour des coins comme le CKGR (c'est ce que vous appelez, je suppose le "khalari game reserve").
Oui, beau voyage en perspective.
Mais très dense. J'ai peur que vous ne passiez tout votre temps dans la voiture (Defender ou Hilux équipé avec snorkel, les deux seront ok)
Sauf erreur, vous changez de camp chaque jour, ce qui est très contraignant. Les distances peuvent paraître faisables, mais les journées sont courtes, les pistes sont fatigantes et la moyenne plutôt basse, donc j'ai des réserves sur votre volonté de faire la totale.
Je pense aussi qu'il faudra faire des choix, mais tout dépend ce que vous recherchez. Il n'y a pas vraiment de doublons dans votre programme qui est bien fait, mais par exemple si vous faites le CKGR, peut-être que les Pans ne sont pas indispensables. Ou choisir un voire deux camps dans Moremi, plutôt que de changer chaque nuit.
Que vous conseiller? Oui, le passage avec la voiture vers Vic Falls prendra du temps, l'option de faire les chutes en excursion depuis Kasane sera plus pratique.
La route Chobe - Savuti - Khwai en 2 jours est ambitieuse, c'est faisable, mais vous allez arriver lessivés (et repartir le lendemain).
Pas besoin de passer deux nuits à Maun, si c'est pour le survol du delta, il dure 30 mn et peut être calé l'après-midi ou le matin.
@Pierre : tout d’abord superbe votre récit du Botswana. On va retravailler notre itinéraire avec vos conseils. Objectif réserver les camps en fin de semaine.
@Voyajou : oui on s’était garder une journée en cas de pépin. Mais vu qu’il faut réserver tous les camps à l’avance au final ça ne sert à rien.
@Matei : Justement on se posait la question de zapper le CKGR pour découvrir davantage Nxai Pan / Makgadikgadi Basin (les paysages ont l'air magnifique) et aussi profiter plus de Moremi / Chobe ?
Le CKGR vaut-il vraiment le détour à cette période de l’année et surtout pour 2-3 jours?
Oui le CKGR vaut le détour, et même plus.
Mais justement, dans votre cas, comme ce ne serait qu'un détour, c'est une bonne idée de ne pas y aller et de reporter ces jours dans les Pans.
D'autant que cette incursion dans le Central Kalahari se situe à la fin du voyage et qu'un pépin ou un contretemps pourraient avoir des conséquences fâcheuses pour attraper le vol du retour.
Oui, je pense que c'est une bonne idée.
Nous ne sommes pas allés au CKGR, par manque de temps justement, mais d'après ce que je sais, la meilleure période est après la saison des pluies, en avril-juin, avec les herbivores et les prédateurs (beaucoup de lions).
Ensuite les migrations repartent doucement vers le Nord, Moremi et Chobe, où vous trouverez une densité importante fin septembre - début octobre, en particulier d'éléphants à Chobe River.
De plus il faut prévoir beaucoup de temps pour le CKGR, déjà pour s'y rendre, puis pour s'y déplacer - un minimum de 4-5 jours d'après ceux qu'on a croisés.
Nxai Pan et Magkadigkadi Pan sont beaux et faciles d'accès, mais au même régime en termes de faune, donc ne vous attendez pas à avoir foule. Les paysages sont différents de Moremi et Chobe, ils valent la peine.
J'ai l'intention d'aller au Botswana cette année à peu près aux mêmes dates !
Ayant également été en Afrique du Sud et en Namibie : ce qui est super (entre autres) dans ces pays ; c'est que l'on peut aller dans les parcs du lever au coucher du soleil !!! avec sa voiture (louée) en toute liberté, une voiture normale suffisant. Les prix des parcs étant également abordables.
J'ai l'impression qu'au Botsawa ça a l'air différent : qu'il est nécessaire d'avoir un 4x4 ? qu'à certains endroits (Okavango semble t'il) on ne peut pas y aller seul ? et que les prix des parcs ont l'air astronomiques ? Je ne suis par ailleurs pas amateur de voyageurs organisés...
Merci si vous pouvez m'éclairer ?
Voici un lien pour les tarifs (en pulas, divise par 10 pour le prix approximatif en €).
Pour préciser ce que dit le dromadaire😉 ci-dessus, hors périodes de pointe (que sont en particulier juillet et août) on peut accéder à ces parcs avec un délai de réservation inférieur à un an. Nous voyageons dans cette région entre janvier et avril sans jamais rien réserver, même pour le lendemain, et n'avons jamais été refoulés à l'entrée d'un parc, même pour y passer la nuit.
Voici un lien pour les tarifs (en pulas, divise par 10 pour le prix approximatif en €).
Pour préciser ce que dit le dromadaire😉 ci-dessus, hors périodes de pointe (que sont en particulier juillet et août) on peut accéder à ces parcs avec un délai de réservation inférieur à un an. Nous voyageons dans cette région entre janvier et avril sans jamais rien réserver, même pour le lendemain, et n'avons jamais été refoulés à l'entrée d'un parc, même pour y passer la nuit.
Hello,
Je viens de réserver sans problèmes des campsites dans CKGR pour les environs du 18/20 avril , en précisant même qu' il s'agit de campsites gérés en direct par CKGR (Xade et Deception) pour 30 P / nuit. Il faut juste de la patience, car DWNP met plusieurs jours à répondre, il faut insister.
D' une manière générale, le retour des sites Sud Africains est que, en dehors des périodes de pointes en général et des vacances scolaires Sud Af en particulier, il n' y a guère de problèmes; évidemment, ce n' est pas ce que te diront big foot, skl ou Maun4x4 self drive, qui cherchent 1/ à gagner des sous 2/ à sécuriser leurs revenus le plus en amont possible.
Pour le prochain voyage (Avri / Mai), j' ai réservé CKGR parce que nous nous y rendrons quasiment directement de Walvis Bay / Windhoek, pour le reste on ira aux bureaux idoines à Maun, et si les choses ne se passent pas facilement (en particulier je voudrais dormir une nuit à Savuti), on trouvera d' autres solutions (campsites en dehors des réserves et/ou bush camping), il y a ce qu' il faut pour les camps en dehors des parcs et des possibilités de bush camping entre Chobe et Maun..
Mais il faut avouer que mon camarade de convoi et moi (deux Land Rover) étant retraités et roulant avec nos propres véhicules, nous avons tout le temps et pouvont sans problèmes nous contenter d' une ébauche de circuit, que nous pouvons toujours changer du jour au lendemain si cela nous chante..
Merci à Voyajou et Francky4 et pour le lien que je cherchais.
Donc si je comprend bien ; à part Okavango (qui est Moremi en fait ?), on peut aller seul dans les parks avec un véhicule 4x4 loué ?
Et est ce que, comme en Af Sud et Namibie, il y a à l'intérieur des parcs des routes ou pistes répertoriées sur un plan pour pouvoir se débrouiller seul ?
Ce sont des questions un peu basiques... mais qui conditionne le fait d'y aller ou pas ! Car me retrouver en groupe et ne pas rester le temps qu'on veut à l'intérieur d'un parc me rebute encore...
Merci d'avance
A+
Dominique
à part Okavango (qui est Moremi en fait ?),
Oui pour ce que tu vas faire, on peut dire ça, Moremi est dans le Delta mais le Delta n'est pas que Moremi.
on peut aller seul dans les parks avec un véhicule 4x4 loué ?
Oui, au moins pour encore quelques années, avec de plus en plus de restrictions.
il y a à l'intérieur des parcs des routes ou pistes répertoriées sur un plan pour pouvoir se débrouiller seul ?
Oui, des cartes Shell locales pour Moremi et Chobe vendues sur place seront suffisantes
(tu peux aussi les acheter sur Amazon)
Bon alors avec trois réponses positives, tu y vas?😉
Je vais étudier tout ça de plus près !
Essayer de trouver cartes et guides (apparement pas de Lonely Planet sur le Botswana...) et consulter voyageforum !
A+
Dominique
il y a à l'intérieur des parcs des routes ou pistes répertoriées sur un plan pour pouvoir se débrouiller seul ?
Oui, des cartes Shell locales pour Moremi et Chobe vendues sur place seront suffisantes..
Suffisantes ? Tu trouves toi ?
Bah moi je préfère chercher les animaux et ne pas chercher le camping, alors je pars avec un GPS Garmin et mes cartes Tracks4africa... trop bien !
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
Hi everyone!
I’m still planning my Cape Town to Johannesburg trip in January 2027.
I saw a documentary about the San people in Namibia, and the same day, I stumbled upon the Lonely Planet page about !Kwah Ttu.
I checked out their website to learn more, including Michel’s travel journal about it. I’m really keen to go.
So, I’m thinking of dedicating:
- either 1 day out of the 4.5 I have in Cape Town...
- or making a detour to !Kwah Ttu on the day I leave Cape Town for Montagu, instead of visiting Franschhoek and its Saturday market...
To the VFers who’ve already been: is it really worth spending a day there?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Malijp
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
We're heading to South Africa for a month with 5 adults.
We'd like to rent a vehicle that can accommodate 5 people and all our luggage.
We're starting in Cape Town and ending in Johannesburg.
What vehicle would you recommend?
EDITH
Hi there,
I’m planning a gorilla trek in Bwindi, Uganda. I’m torn between the classic option (1 hour with the gorillas) and the habituation trek (4 hours with the gorillas but a more expensive permit). Has anyone done the habituation trek? Both? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback (including on the difficulty).
Thanks
Thirty years ago, I traveled to Zanzibar (Tanzania) with my children. Since I’ve since started a new family, I took the opportunity of a trip to Kenya to bring my new family along: my wife, who’s Kenyan, and my 10-year-old daughter.
Zanzibar has really changed in 30 years.
It’s become the island of taxes.
It all starts upon arrival: I think it’s the only country in the world, besides the visa, where Zanzibar insurance (and no other) is mandatory—it costs 40 €. If you didn’t purchase it before arriving, good luck getting it: the IT systems are unreliable. With a bit of luck, it’ll take at least an hour to process! And of course, this insurance is useless—if you get sick, it’s recommended to use your home country’s insurance because if you use Zanzibar’s, your national insurance won’t cover you anymore.
I wanted to show my daughter the red colobus monkey, which is endemic to Zanzibar. I paid for a tour that was supposed to be all-inclusive. First, we visited a spice farm, where a farm guide took charge of us—meaning commissions were involved, of course! The tour was very good and informative, though. When we arrived at Jenzhi Park (the colobus park), the guide told us he "forgot" there was an entrance fee (50$).
Aware of the system, I decided to book an Ocean Blue tour through the Zanzibar Tourism Office. After two hours of driving, we stopped at a beach—and were left there. No boat was ready to take us. Since my wife speaks Swahili (the language in Zanzibar), after an hour, a captain with his own boat agreed to take us along with his family.
Another attempt. The main attraction in Zanzibar (besides the city) is Changuu, the Prison Island. You have to take a motorboat and pay the captain, which is normal.
But in Zanzibar, to even get on a boat, you first have to pay a tax! Once we arrived at the island, it started all over again! Thirty years ago, access was free, and the entire island (about 1 km²) was open. Today, there’s a small office, and you have to pay a hefty fee to enter. But enter where? A paved path leads to about 15% of the island—the rest is off-limits. In total, I paid 100 € for my wife, daughter, and myself just to visit a tiny portion of the island! Avoid this!
For the rest of our stay, we stayed at a 5-star hotel with golf, horseback riding, tennis courts, evening concerts, etc.—undeniably high-level comfort. One last thing: if you want to rent a car, it’s affordable and useful for exploring the island’s diverse landscapes, but there are speed cameras at every corner on the main roads. The fine is supposedly 100 $, and it’s hard not to get one!
I told you: Zanzibar, the land of taxes. I used to think my country, Belgium, was the tax champion—I’ve found something even better!
I’ve read some travel journals here but I still have a question.
We’re heading to Uganda next February. The gorilla permits are booked, and the flight tickets are sorted too.
My question is about the chimpanzee trek. I’d love to know whether it’s better to book the habituation experience (4 hours) or the standard trek (1 hour).
The price difference isn’t huge, but I keep wondering and I’d hate to miss out on a great experience.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
We're now just 5 weeks away from our trip to South Africa 🙂 and *so* excited to explore (just a tiny bit of) this amazing country.
I need to buy some binoculars but have no idea which model to choose. I don’t really know what to look for (and I don’t want to spend too much).
Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me some tips!
We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy