Nous partons en couple en septembre prochain pour découvrir la Tanzanie :)
J'avais prévu un voyage de 3 semaines afin de découvrir les parcs du nord mais au final après reflexion (et la lecture de récit d'autres personnes sur le forum qui l'ont fait) j'ai pu ajouter une semaine supplémentaire à mon circuit afin d'avoir la possibilité de combiner les parcs du nord et du sud,
Avec encore beaucoup d'interrogations ... les distances étant longues et difficiles à calculer (google maps ayant ses limites) je n'arrive pas toujours à voir si c'est réalisable où s'il faut rajouter des nuits d'étapes supplémentaires en limitant du coup le temps passé dans les parcs :(
Je me pose également la question concernant le lac natron qui a l'air magnifique mais qui fait faire un grand détour (par contre cela permet de rentrer dans le serengeti par le nord et éviter ensuite de faire l'aller retour dans le parc) et où les conditions sont parfois difficiles (route en mauvais état, nombreux péages),
Concernant le temps passé dans chaque parc cela est-il bien réparti ?
Je me suis inspirée des récits de Francky et de Girardinpho (et d'autres personnes dont je n'ai pas les noms et tête) que je remercie encore pour leur retour d'expérience bien utiles pour tous :)
Pour les hébergements nous logerons essentiellement en camping (4x4 avec tente sur le toit) avec parfois éventuellement des hébergements en "dur", pour avoir un "vrai lit" 😉
J1 Arrivée à Arusha - nuit
J2 Arusha/Lake Natron - Maasai Giraffe Eco Lodge
J3 Lake Natron - Maasai Giraffe Eco Lodge
J4 Lake Natron/Wasso
J5 Wasso/Serengeti - Lobo campsite ? 5 nuits à répartir au Serengeti (1 nuit au bord du cratère, camping en fonction des dispos)
J6 Serengeti - Lobo campsite ?
J7 Serengeti - Lobo campsite ?
J8 Serengeti - Seronera ?
J9 Serengeti - Ngorogorong - Simba A Campsite ?
J10 Serengeti - visite du cratère/Fanaka Campsite
J11 Fanaka Campsite/Tarangire public Campsite3 nuits à Tarangire
J12 Tarangire public Campsite
J13 Tarangire public Campsite/Amarula Campsite
J14 Amarula Campsite/ Isimila African Garden
J15 Isimila African Garden/Chogela Campsite
J16 Chogela Campsite - Ruaha National Park5 nuits à Ruaha
J17 Ruaha National Park
J18 Ruaha National Park
J19 Ruaha National Park
J20 Ruaha National Park
J21 : Crocodile Camp (Kidayi) - Selous3 nuits à Selous
J22: Selous National Park
J23 : Selous National Park
J24 : Selous/Lake Tagala Campsite
J25 : Lake Tagala/Dar es salaam
Et nous finirons par 4/5 nuits sur l’ile de Mafia...
Vos avis sont les bienvenus :)
Bonne journée,
Nathalie
Bonsoir,
Votre magnifique récit m’a conforté dans l’idée qu’il est possible de découvrir la Tanzanie en self drive, merci pour votre partage 🙂
Nathalie
Me revoilà avec mon itinéraire en tenant compte des conseils avisés et informations glanées sur le forum :)
Je suis en attente de la carte Tracks4Africa afin de calculer les temps de trajet, je me rend compte malgré tout que cela fait pas mal de route ...
J'ai beaucoup hésité pour la répartition des jours entre les différents parcs j'espère que j'ai pu trouver le bon compromis :)
Au final nous ferons une boucle Dar es Salam/Dar es Salam évitant ainsi les frais supplémentaires pour le 4x4 si nous le rendions à un endroit différent,
Cela nous permettra ainsi de nous poser 2 nuits lors de notre arrivée et 3 nuits en fin de séjour au bord de mer 😉
Les étapes pourront évoluer au fil de mes recherches mais en gros ça donnera ça :
J1 - Arrivée Dar Es Salam
J2 - Dar Es Salam/Beach Camp (Saandani National Park) - 300 km - 6h 2 nuits
J3 - Beach Camp (Saandani National Park)
J4 - Beach Camp (Saandani National Park)/Lushoto - 244 km - 4h50
Je ne sait pas si les pistes sont plus belles aujourd'hui mais je pense qu'il nous faudra faire une étape et supprimer du coup 1 jour dans un parc ... on part déjà 1 mois ce ne sera pas possible de rallonger plus 🙁
Maintenant la route entre le Tarangire et Iringa est goudronnée et bonne, mais je trouve que le trajet est quand même toujours long. Alors il est sympa de faire une coupure à Kondoa pour voir les peintures rupestres.
Bonjour nathalie,
J’ai acheté tracks4africa et commencé à établir l’itinéraire je me suis rend mieux compte des temps de trajet qui sont parfois très longs pour certaines étapes ...
Je pense d’ailleurs ajouter 1 ou 2 stops supplémentaires quitte à supprimer 1 nuit dans dans un parc 🙁
Bonne journée,
Nathalie
Oui cela est vraiment indispensable 🙂
Vous êtes mon ange gardien 😊 fut un temps je pensait abandonner l’idee du self drive ... j’etais bloquée dans mon itinéraire et grâce à vos conseils avisés vous m’avez conforté dans l’idée que cela était possible 😉 merci 🙏 c’est vraiment gentil de me consacrer tout ce temps,
Nathalie
Pour les jours 2/3/4 : Je trouve que vous faites un gros détour en passant par le Saadani National Park si vous ne faites pas une halte à Pangani. Vous pouvez faire une nuit à Saadani National Park puis deux nuits à Pangani pour vous reposer. Sinon vous supprimez le Saadani National Park est remplacé les jours par l’Arusha National Park (chance de voir des singes colobus) et par une halte au Kahawa Shambani Campsite à Moshi pour découvrir la culture du café et bien manger. Vous aurez aussi peut-être la chance de voir le Kilimandjaro.
Jour 5 : comme il n’est plus possible de faire du canoë ou de se baigner dans le lake Chala et qu’il y a maintenant la Wildlife management fee à payer, il faut vraiment réfléchir si ça vaut la peine d’y aller. Bon la vue sur le Kilimandjaro est magnifique depuis là.
Jour 9 : Dommage de ne pas faire une nuit dans la région Lobo.
Jour 13 : Le Fanaka Camp est un endroit vraiment sympathique pour se reposer. Il y aussi une petite piscine si il fait trop chaud 🥵.
Jour 17 : La visite des peintures rupestres est vraiment sympathique.
Jour 18 : Nous avions choisi l’Isimila African Garden à Iringa car le Bradt indiquait qu’il y avait une piscine. Malheureusement la piscine n’était pas encore construite. Sinon il y a d’autres camping à Iringa. Mais comme dit dans l’autre discution nous avons aimé l’accueil dans ce camping qui semblait à l’abandon.
Jour 25 : Lake Tagala campsite et le nom mentionné dans ma version de Garmin BaseCamp, maintenant comme dit par Blesl il est écrit Tagalala campsite dans Traks4Africa. (Je vais donc le corriger sur mon carnet de voyage 🤬)
Jour 27 : Je ferait une nuit à Mtemere Gate si vous voulez faire un tour en bateau.
Jours 28/29 : Le Makao Changani Beach Resort est un endroit très sympathique avec une magnifique plage, mais il est difficile de se baigner car il y a des coraux jusqu’au bord de la plage et la mer est plutôt agitée. Attention quand nous y étions, l’année passée, le manageur venait de changer et il était entrain de faire des améliorations, alors le nom du lodge a peut-être aussi changé.
Un point de détail à tes très exhaustives et intéressantes infos, je confirme le Tagalala Lake et le Taga_etc. camping, c'est le logiciel Garmin BaseCamp qui détonne. Les cartes et Google Maps emploient bien Tagalala...
Mais je te laisse, je ne voudrais pas trop te distraire de ton carnet 😉 dont la suite est impatiemment attendue...
Merci pour ces nouveaux commentaires :)
L'idée de départ était d'arriver à Arusha et faire un périple jusqu'à Dar es Salam, puis j'ai pensé qu'en 1 mois nous aurions la possibilité de faire une boucle, mais les distances sont si longues que je me pose des questions ...
Si nous arrivons à Dar es Salam effectivement il serait dommage de ne pas s'arrêter à Saadani ou bien choisir la deuxième possibilité : arriver à Arusha et du coup nous aurions plus de temps à consacrer au reste de l'itinéraire ...
D'après vous loupons nous vraiment quelque chose si l'on choisi la deuxième solution (Saadani a l'air sympa et plus adapté apparemment que Changani Beach pour la baignade ?) ,
Je m'interroge également au sujet du lake natron ? cela nous fait faire un détour ... est ce vraiment indispensable même si apparemment cela reste un bel endroit ça fait faire beaucoup de route pour 1 nuit sur place ... n'y gagnerons nous pas à passer à consacrer 2 jours de plus au serengeti ...
Je vais continuer à travailler mon itinéraire avec le Gps, je me rendrait ainsi mieux compte des distances :)
Bonne soirée,
Nathalie
La prostitution 2 (avec l’Arusha National parc et Kahawa Shambani Campsite à Moshi) était aussi avec un départ de Dar es Salaam sans passer par le Saadani National parc.
Je ne me baignerais pas à Saadani, vous êtes quand même dans un parc National. Pour la baignade il faut aller justement à Pangani.
Si vous devez enlever une nuit, j’enlèverais la nuit au Lake Chala.
Maintenant je trouve dommage d’enlever la nuit au Lake Natron et de ne pas faire le nord du Serengeti. Il faut aussi se dire que le trajet par le Ngorongoro pour le Serengeti et long, cher et la piste est pas terrible entre les deux parcs.
La prostitution 2 (avec l’Arusha National parc et Kahawa Shambani Campsite à Moshi) était aussi avec un départ de Dar es Salaam sans passer par le Saadani National parc.
Je ne me baignerais pas à Saadani, vous êtes quand même dans un parc National. Pour la baignade il faut aller justement à Pangani.
Si vous devez enlever une nuit, j’enlèverais la nuit au Lake Chala.
Maintenant je trouve dommage d’enlever la nuit au Lake Natron et de ne pas faire le nord du Serengeti. Il faut aussi se dire que le trajet par le Ngorongoro pour le Serengeti et long, cher et la piste est pas terrible entre les deux parcs.
On peut se baigner à Saadani, même si l'eau est trouble (sans doute trop chargée en sable et autres alluvions). L'eau est très chaude et les plages, désertes et au sable brûlant, sont immenses. Sur le plan de la faune, Saadani est quand même une étape que l'on peut éventuellement shunter, le parc est assez pauvre en grande faune, notamment en grands chats, ou du moins, l'était il y a sept ans lors de notre visite.
Je m'incruste dans cette préparation avec plaisir car je pense bientôt commencer la notre pour un voyage Tanzanien en Septembre prochain. 🙂
Nous sommes à notre tour dans un énorme dilemme concernant le self drive ou le safari organisé. 🤪
Surtout après nos péripéties botswanaises...
Je ne veux pas me prendre la tete avec les taxes, les assurances, les crevaisons mais d'un autre coté je nous vois mal dans un safari guidé, à devoir demander pour s’arrêter prendre des photos, faire pipi... 😕
Peut-être que je me trompe, nous n'avons jamais fait de safari guidé après tout, mais je pense étudier, de principe, la possibilité du'n voyage en self-drive. 😇
Chez quel loueur pensez vous louer votre véhicule ?
j'ai lu, ici et là, que les loueurs et les véhicules n'étaient pas très fiables en Tanzanie... 😕
Nous avons eu la même hésitation que vous quant au self drive mais comme vous je me voit mal en safari organisé car nous aimons bien avoir une certaine liberté 😀
Nous pensons louer notre 4x4 chez safari 4x4 Hire car après comparaison avec les autres loueurs le tarif est plus intéressant et effectivement j’ai lu quelques mauvais avis sur les loueurs tanzaniens ...
Quel itinéraire pensez-vous faire ?
Merci beaucoup pour ta réponse.
J'ai envoyé un mail ce soir à Christo, j'attends sa réponse pour savoir si il accepte toujours de louer en Tanzanie et à quelles conditions.
Pour l'instant nous n'avons absolument aucun itinéraire défini.
Nous avons 3 semaines, 20 nuits sur place.
J'étudie la possibilité de le faire en self drive.
Si c'est trop compliqué ce sera très simple nous ferons une découverte classique : Kili+safari guidé+zanzibar
Si le self drive est envisageable ça va être compliqué de se décider car il faudra forcément faire des choix ! 😎
Soit 9 nuits Kili (7+2 hotel) + 7 nuits self drive + 4 nuits Zanzibar. (c'est l'option que je préférerai je pense).
Soit 15 nuits self drive + 5 nuits Zanzibar
Ou alors juste 20 nuits de roadtrip avec océan indien, parcs du sud et parcs du nord. 🙂
La réponse et, si positive, le devis de Christo vont être déterminants !
En 20 jours, faire un roadtrip avec les parcs du nord, ceux du sud et l’océan indien me paraît un peu stressant. Tu aurais meilleur temps de te concentrer sur le Nord.
Si tu prends la voiture à Dar es Salaam, pourquoi ne pas faire une halte repos à Pangani.
Notre vol international arrive à Dar Es Salam, le lendemain nous prenons un vol pour Arusha,
Nous prenons ensuite possession de notre 4x4 à Arusha et le rendons à Dar Es Salam à la fin de notre parcours avant de partir pour quelques jours à Zanzibar,
Le fait de prendre la voiture à Arusha et la rendre à Dar es Salam nous coûte 305 euros mais nous préférons procéder ainsi, cela nous évite de faire la route et consacrer ces jours à Zanzibar :)
Merci beaucoup pour ta réponse Nathalie ! 🙂
Je pense que si nous optons pour la version self-drive nous n'aurons pas d'autre choix que de récupérer le 4x4 à Arusha pour perdre le moins de temps possible sur la route.
Sans donner mon avis sur l'itinéraire touristique, une remarque importante sur les routes goudronnées en Tanzanie... et les temps de trajet réalisables quotidiennement.
Je viens de remonter (fin décembre/début janvier) ma voiture de Lusaka à Mombasa - en 10 jours -, je suis donc passé par la Tanzanie en "transit".
Un très mauvais souvenir :
Sur les portions Mbeya-Dar et Dar-Tanga (je suppose que sur les autres grandes routes nationales le schéma est le même) :
Il y a énormément de policiers et de radars, qui sont systématiquement placés au niveau du panneau "fin de limitation à 50".
En général, ce panneau est situé bien des kilomètres après le centre du village/ville où la vitesse était limitée. Attention aux 15 derniers mètres...
Parfois, le panneau "fin de limitation à 50" ayant disparu, on se retrouve à rouler à 50 pendant 30 km sur un bitume parfait...
On finit par ne plus savoir à quelle vitesse rouler.
J'ai pensé (et ma copilote aussi) avoir respecté tous les panneaux à la lettre, et me suis fait arrêter 2 fois.
J'ai fait du 35 km/h de moyenne en 8h, sans faire de pause... Pour les nerfs, ça a vraiment été compliqué.
Autre chose : il y a énormément de camions, qui roulent à 20 (voire 5) km/h en montée, avec des double-ligne non franchissables... non pas parce que c'est dangereux mais parce qu'il y a un policier derrière chacune d'entre elle !
Donc, prenez votre temps, souriez et respectez les panneaux mais... il me paraît peu probable de faire plus de 400 km sur une journée.
Me revoilà avec mon itinéraire et encore quelques interrogations ...
Au final nous avons décidés après notre arrivée à Dar es Salam de prendre l'avion le lendemain pour Arusha (afin de gagner un peu de temps sur la route), de louer notre 4x4 à Arusha pour le rendre à Dar es Salam après notre boucle nord/sud avant de partir à Zanzibar :)
Cela nous fait des frais supplémentaires mais nous éviter de faire l'aller retour dar es salam/arusha ... A moins que nous fassions une boucle en ne repassant pas par la même route ? il y a t-il un intérêt je ne sait pas s'il y a des choses à voir en passant du côté Kijungu ...
Je me pose encore malgré tout quelques questions pour la partie Sud ... j'ai peur que cela ne soit trop long et même si ruaha me tente beaucoup j'hésite encore ...
J'ai pensé à un autre itinéraire : une boucle à arusha (arusha 2nuits , natron 2 nuits , serengeti 5 nuits, manyara 2 nuits , tarangire 5 nuits) et retour vers Dar es salam en passant par saadani et le bord de mer comme vous l'avez fait :)
Bien sur ce n'est pas du tout le même voyage mais cela comporte moins de kilomètres (au vue de l'état des routes !) et nous laisserait plus de temps pour nous poser :)
Nous ne sommes pas plongeurs, pensez vous que nourrons nous faire la sortie en mer pour le snorkeling à emanyani beach ?
Je pensait avoir trouvé mon itinéraire et me voilà à tout remettre en question ;( c'est difficile il y a tellement de choses à voir ...
Bonne journée,
Je ne connais pas la région de Kijungu, alors il m'est difficile de vous dire si c'est une bonne idée de passer par là, mais passer par Saadani peut être une bonne idée.
Pour Pangani il n'y a pas de problème pour faire du snorkeling sur Maziwe Island Marine Reserve.
Sinon l'avantage en Tanzanie est que vous n'êtes pas obligés de réserver les campings, alors vous pourrez directement réorganiser votre circuit sur place. Donc pas de stress ! 😛
Merci pour votre réponse 🙂
En fait la grande question est : parcourir uniquement les parcs du nord où étendre notre itinéraire vers ruaha 😕
Je suis tentée de faire le même itinéraire que vous :) mais toute cette route m’effraie un peu, j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas de tout repos ...
Si c’était à refaire auriez vous supprimé ou privilégié un endroit ? Je sait bien que tout cela est personnel mais cela m’aidera peut être à me décider enfin :)
Le parc national de Ruaha est superbe effectivement, mais je ne suis pas sûr que cela vaille la peine de descendre dans le Sud pour Ruaha seulement, qui est juste (enfin, juste, c'est déjà pas mal et même mieux que ça) un super Tarangire.
Si tu m'en crois, je te conseillerai d'y ajouter la réserve de Selous (la meilleure chance de voir des lycaons en Tanzanie, même si la dernière fois nous en avons vu à Ruaha et pas au Selous)
et/ou Katavi qui est absolument hors norme, sans équivalent dans le Nord de la Tanzanie - et dans l'Afrique entière, ce n'est pas pour rien qu'il a été qualifié de "secret le mieux gardé des safaris". Inconvénient : temps de trajet important pour l'atteindre et le quitter...
Merci pour ces conseils :)
Il est vrai que les parcs du sud ont l'air magnifiques 🙂
Qu'en est-il de la region de mara (côté tanzanie) et grumeti .. le mois de septembre est-il une bonne période pour la migration (même si c'est bien entendu aléatoire selon les années) ?
Si nous décidions de ne visiter que la région du nord peut-être pourrions nous y passer quelques jours :)
Selon les informations que j'ai pu receuillir le mois de Septembre n'est en général pas le meilleur mois pour observer la grande migration ou tout du moins les river crossing.
Les gnous traversent la Mara plutôt en Juillet/Aout, et ne redescendrons en Tanzanie qu'à partir du mois d'Octobre.
En effet il semble que ça reste assez aléatoire mais dans tout les cas je pense que ça n’empêchera pas d'observer gnous, zèbres et autres ici et là. 🙂
En revanche le mois de Septembre semble être une bonne période pour l'observation des animaux tels que les félins, à la faveur de la sécheresse.
Pour les animaux nous avons aimé aussi bien les parcs du Nord que ceux du Sud. Mais notre préférence à été pour ceux du Sud, car beaucoup moins de touristes. Nous n’aimons pas trop les attroupements de voitures, bon ça peut-être un avantage pour voir les fauves 😛 !
PS : normalement en fin de semaine la suite du carnet devrait être mis sur notre site. Cela vous donnera une idée sur la route du Lake Natron au Serengeti.
C'est pour cette raison que j'aurai aimé parcourir les parcs du Sud mais je pense que nous allons privilégier le nord pour cette fois quitte à revenir pour le ruaha qui je pense mérite quelques jours :)
J'ai hâte de lire la suite de votre carnet que j'attend avec impatience 😉
Après de nombreuses reflexions me voilà à nouveau plongée dans mon itinéraire 😏
Dans les grandes lignes ça devrait ressembler à ça, je ne suis pas encore fixée sur certaines étapes ...
J1 - Arrivée à Dar
J2 - Dar/Parc Saadani
J3-J4-J5 - Emayani : snorkeling et repos avant le début du safari
J6 - Lake chala ?
J7 - Moshi ?
J8 - Meru ?
J9-J10 - Parc Arusha : 2 nuits ?
J11-J12- Lac Natron : 2 nuits ? j'ai vu qu'il y avait des balades à faire dans les environs mais peut-être serait-il préférable de consacrer 1 nuit supplémentaire au Serengeti ?
J12-J14-J15-J16-J17 - Parc Serengeti
J18 - Mto wa mbu ?
J19-J20-J21-J22 - Tarangire : je voulait consacrer 1 nuit au parc Manyara mais je pense que Tarangire est à privilégier ?
J23-J24-J25 - route vers Dar en passant par Kondoa pour éviter de remonter vers Arusha (le nombre de kilomètres est similaire et ça nous fait passer pour une route différente)
Bonjour,
Je suis votre préparation et je viens y mettre mon grain de sel pour Mto Wa bu et Tarangire !!!.
À Mto Wa Bu nous avons fait une balade dans le village et vu les artisans sculpteurs (intéressants), nous avons également vu une école qui avait l'air très sympa mais pas de visite (Allez voir mon récit et vous comprendrez mon hélas)
Tarangire ….. Ah si nous avions su !!!!. Nous y serions restés plus que 2 nuits, soit une seule journée complète. Un scandale pour ce parc qui mérite bien 3 jours pleins à cause des paysages différents d'ailleurs, des éléphants, de tous les autres animaux et du peu de monde sur les pistes.
Pour lire mon compte rendu :
http://www.fou-de-voyage.com/voyage/00154_voyage-organise-tanzanie-mimi48/
Je "plussoie" Micheline, le Tarangire mérite deux ou trois jours entiers, voire plus, sans risque de déception, surtout en Septembre où la faune sera très concentrée sur la Tarangire River.
Ce serait dommage de se contenter de survoler ce superbe parc...
Alors qu'il y a de quoi s'installer tranquillement pour observer à loisir
Notre voyage prend forme en suivant vos traces grâce à votre magnifique récit 🙂
Nous arrivons à Dar es Salam le soir, prenons possessions de notre véhicule le lendemain direction le Parc de Saadani où nous passerons une nuit au Beach Campsite (je me suis renseignée également pour les bandas auprès de Tanapa mais au final le campsite proche de la mer me semble plus sympathique et cela nous donnera l'occasion de passer la première nuit dans nos tentes),
Je viens de booker 3 nuits à l'Emayani Beach lodge afin de passer quelques jours au bord de la mer pour faire un peu de snorkeling avant le début de notre itinéraire :)
Concernant l'étape suivante afin de couper la route je pense passer une nuit dans la région du lusotho avant de rejoindre le lake chala ... combien de temps avez vous mis pour faire la route depuis l'Emayani Beach lodge jusqu'au lake chala ? Garmin m'indique 282 km : 9h cela me parait énorme :(
Merci pour votre aide :)
Mon Garmin m’indique 382 km : 6h10
En détail :
Emayani Beach Lodge - bac : 20 min
Bac (traversée) : 5 min
Bac - Lac Chala : 5h45
Ne me rappelant plus exactement des temps de route, j’ai regardé les heures sur nos photos et voilà le temps que nous avons approximativement mis : 366 km pour 7h15
En détail :
Emayani Beach Lodge - bac : 1h00 (piste très mauvaise, expliquée sur notre carnet)
Bac (traversée) : 15 min (attente + traversée)
Bac - Lac Chala : 6h00
Au final nous avons approximativement mis 8h30 de trajet avec une pause d’environ 1h00 et 15 min pour les démarches administratives (payement de la taxe gouvernementale) pour le Lake Chala.
Bonsoir Nathalie,
Merci pour cette réponse détaillée 😀
Nous allons faire une halte d’une nuit dans la région de Lushoto,
Pensez-vous que l’étape au Kahawa Shambani soit indispensable ? je pensait rejoindre directement l’Arusha NP pour 1 ou 2 nuits,
Bonne soirée,
Nathalie
Bonsoir Nathalie,
Merci pour cette réponse détaillée 😀
Nous allons faire une halte d’une nuit dans la région de Lushoto,
Pensez-vous que l’étape au Kahawa Shambani soit indispensable ? je pensait rejoindre directement l’Arusha NP pour 1 ou 2 nuits,
Bonne soirée,
Nathalie
Nous avions aussi pensé faire une halte à Lushoto, mais nous avons préféré dormir deux nuits dans la région du Kilimandjaro pour avoir plus de chance de le prendre en photo.
Ni le Lake Chala, ni Kahawa Shambani sont indispensables. Mais nous, nous avons beaucoup aimé l’excursion café.
Nous ajouterons 1 nuit au Kahawa Shambani, cela coupera la route et nous donnera l'occasion de visiter une plantation de café :)
Notre itinéraire ressemblerait à ça :
J1 - Dar
J2 - Saadani
J3-4-5 Emayani
J6 Lushoto - Irente farm lodge
J7 Moshi - Kahawa Shambani
J8 Arusha : nous visiterons sûrement le parc mais ne dormirons pas à l'intérieur mais plutôt à Arusha afin de gagner du temps de route le lendemain pour aller au Lac Natron
J9 - Natron - Maasai Giraffe
J10 - Wasso - Oloip guesthouse
J11-12-13-14-15-16-17 - Serengeti : 7 nuits afin de tenter de voir une grande partie du parc (je pensait aller vers mara river, grumeti même si ce n'est pas la saison idéale pour la grande migration les paysages doivent être magnifiques et il y a tout de même des animaux)
J18-19-20-21-22 : Tarangire : 5 nuits - j'ai peur que cela fasse trop même si le parc a l'air magnifique
J23-24-25 : je ne sait pas encore comment répartir ces jours ... nous rendons le véhicule J25 à Dar
- je pensait peut-être réduire le temps de visite à Tarangire et au Serengeti et passer quelques nuits au Masai Mara mais je ne sait pas si cela est raisonnable, cela fait beaucoup de route et le passage de la frontière risque d'être compliqué,
Merci encore pour tes bons conseils qui m'aident beaucoup dans la préparation de mon itinéraire 😄
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Tanzanie / Malawi / Mozambique · 10 replies
J'aimerai cette année changer de région du monde, envisageant ainsi un circuit allant de la Tanzanie à Madagascar. Cependant, étant en ce moment en long trips…
Je pars en tanzanie au mois d'aout, j'aurais aimé avoir des renseignements sur les possibles évènements qui auraient lieu à ce moment là. De plus, je me…
Voyager à petits prix › Kenya / Tanzanie · 9 replies
Nous partons fin janvier pour un tour du monde d'1 an et nous commencerons par le Kenya et la Tanzanie pendant 2 mois et demi. Nous voyagerons avec un budget…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Tanzanie · 14 replies
Je pars un mois avec un pote en Tanzanie. (mi juillet-mi aout). On essaye de prevoir un minimum ce qu'on va faire sur place. Pour le moment on s'est fixe sur…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Tanzanie · 5 replies
Bah comme pas mal de monde ici je compte me faire un petit sejour en Tanzanie pour un mois environ au mois daout!! Au programme: lascension du kili, Zanzibar…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?