Trajet à vélo Bou Thrarar - Amesker - El Had (vallée des Aït Bouguemez)
by Cube18
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
bonjour,
j'envisage en avril de relier en cyclo depuis Bou-Thrarar la vallée des Aît-Bougmès en passant par Amejgag , Amesker , le Tizi-n-Aît-Hamed pour ensuite rejoindre EL-HAD..
Q1--est-ce goudronné ou de la piste ???
Q2- y at-il auberge ou gite à El-Had ???
merci d'avance pour toutes infos à ce sujet...
Cdlt..Rv..et meilleurs voeux à tous !!!!
Rv.
Salut,
Non, pas de goudron du tout.
En venant de bou Tharar, le goudron cesse à la sortie d'Alemdoun en direction d'Amejgag.
Tu auras ta première difficulté en montant un col qui évite les gorges d'Amejgag, il arrive parfois que la piste des gorges soit meilleure que le col, tu sauras sur place.
A la sortie des gorges ou à la descente du col, il y a un gros oued en face qui rejoint l'assif principal. il y a au croisement une grosse auberge non officielle, on la voit bien, l'entrée se fait sous un grand porche en terre. Prix très bas et... il y a l'eau chaude. 😛 Sinon, sur Amesker, quelques bornes plus haut, tu trouveras facilement quelques gites. Il faut insister en allant voir un peu partout car c'est souvent fermé mais les gérants ne sont jamais loin.
Après, tu attaqueras une très grosse difficulté le tizi Ait Hamed par son côté le plus dur... Bon courage dans les derniers lacets, même en bagnole c'est peu évident. La descente est plus calme mais longue et tu arriveras sur une succession de villages le long de l'oued M'Goun. Juste en bas de la descente au niveau de l'oued, la grande bâtisse sur la droite de la piste ( y en a qu'une) est aussi une auberge non officielle, demande Daoud, c'est le seul qui parle un peu français) . Après ce village, tu auras une longue piste qui traverseras parfois des oueds, 2 fois au moins lors de mon dernier passage.
Tu rencontreras un dernier village, Talate. Tu trouveras facilement de quoi dormir, les habitants ont très peu l'occasion de gagner un peu d'argent en gite... Le village est de l'autre côté de l'oued, il faut traverser sur un gué. Ou tu continues encore sur 3 ou 4 km et tu trouveras une ruine dont je ne trouve aucun renseignements : une vieille tour de guet au bord de l'oued, on peut y planter sa tente facilement au pied, beau spot de bivouac au croisement de 2 oueds... avec le M'Goun qui te regarde fièrement... A éviter si le temps menace.
Enfin la montée du Tizi Ait Himi, pas très longue mais très violente de ce côté là... La descente sur Tabant est belle est longue...
Tu as choisi le côté vraiment le plus dur en vélo... Bon courage... 😉
Non, pas de goudron du tout.
En venant de bou Tharar, le goudron cesse à la sortie d'Alemdoun en direction d'Amejgag.
Tu auras ta première difficulté en montant un col qui évite les gorges d'Amejgag, il arrive parfois que la piste des gorges soit meilleure que le col, tu sauras sur place.
A la sortie des gorges ou à la descente du col, il y a un gros oued en face qui rejoint l'assif principal. il y a au croisement une grosse auberge non officielle, on la voit bien, l'entrée se fait sous un grand porche en terre. Prix très bas et... il y a l'eau chaude. 😛 Sinon, sur Amesker, quelques bornes plus haut, tu trouveras facilement quelques gites. Il faut insister en allant voir un peu partout car c'est souvent fermé mais les gérants ne sont jamais loin.
Après, tu attaqueras une très grosse difficulté le tizi Ait Hamed par son côté le plus dur... Bon courage dans les derniers lacets, même en bagnole c'est peu évident. La descente est plus calme mais longue et tu arriveras sur une succession de villages le long de l'oued M'Goun. Juste en bas de la descente au niveau de l'oued, la grande bâtisse sur la droite de la piste ( y en a qu'une) est aussi une auberge non officielle, demande Daoud, c'est le seul qui parle un peu français) . Après ce village, tu auras une longue piste qui traverseras parfois des oueds, 2 fois au moins lors de mon dernier passage.
Tu rencontreras un dernier village, Talate. Tu trouveras facilement de quoi dormir, les habitants ont très peu l'occasion de gagner un peu d'argent en gite... Le village est de l'autre côté de l'oued, il faut traverser sur un gué. Ou tu continues encore sur 3 ou 4 km et tu trouveras une ruine dont je ne trouve aucun renseignements : une vieille tour de guet au bord de l'oued, on peut y planter sa tente facilement au pied, beau spot de bivouac au croisement de 2 oueds... avec le M'Goun qui te regarde fièrement... A éviter si le temps menace.
Enfin la montée du Tizi Ait Himi, pas très longue mais très violente de ce côté là... La descente sur Tabant est belle est longue...
Tu as choisi le côté vraiment le plus dur en vélo... Bon courage... 😉
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
Je ne connais pas ton El Had dans cette vallée, je ne connais que celui de la route de Zagora.
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
bonjour Olivier,
meilleurs voeux et merci pur ces infos..
peut-tu me dire combien de Km il y a:
de Bou-Thrarar à Amesker.y at-il des gites ou hôtels??? je compte faire ce parcours en VTTAE donc mon problème sera de pouvoir recharger ma batterie...autonomie env.100km sans trop de grosses montées..y à t-il l'électricité dans cette région ????combien de Km au total depuis Bou-Thrarar à Tabant..
El-Had est noté sur la carte Michelin ; en fait c'est Tabant..à Partir de là , je connais le circuit car je l'ai parcouru déjà 2 fois en cycloVTT ..
merci encore pour tes renseignements.Cdlt..Rv.
Rv.
Oui tu as raison, meilleurs vœux aussi...😛
Entre Bou Tharar et Tabant, il y a 105 km...
Je t'ai envoyé en mp un lien vers un article que j'ai écris et détaillé sur cette piste.. Tu sauras tout pour les km, les gîtes etc... Même si cette article a 2 ans, c'est encore d'actualité pour la quasi totalités des informations...
La seule chose qui change c'est que d'une année à une autre l'état de la piste change en mieux... ou en pire ...😛
Oui il y a de l’électricité. D'ailleurs, on le voit avec ces horribles et immenses pylônes.
Je ne savais pas que Tabant avait ce nom aussi...
Entre Bou Tharar et Tabant, il y a 105 km...
Je t'ai envoyé en mp un lien vers un article que j'ai écris et détaillé sur cette piste.. Tu sauras tout pour les km, les gîtes etc... Même si cette article a 2 ans, c'est encore d'actualité pour la quasi totalités des informations...
La seule chose qui change c'est que d'une année à une autre l'état de la piste change en mieux... ou en pire ...😛
Oui il y a de l’électricité. D'ailleurs, on le voit avec ces horribles et immenses pylônes.
Je ne savais pas que Tabant avait ce nom aussi...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
bonjour.
Je ne voudrais pas me tromper mais El Had est un nom courant sur certaines cartes notamment la Michalin, cela signifie que c'est le souk du dimanche (c'est bien ça ?), ici, c'est le souk de Tabant. Il y a (avait ? ) le poste de police où les étrangers devaient montrer les papiers, quelques commerces permanents, des gargotes, un coiffeur.... Souvent, ces "El Had" sont situé loin des villages, en peine campagne, à la croisée de routes ou pistes.
Pourvu que je ne me trompe pas, c'est l'explication que j'ai comprise.
Je n'ai pas roulé sur cette nouvelle piste mais tu donnes envie. Je suis arrivé à El Had un jour en cherchant un moyen de basculer côté Sud mais à l'époque, seuls les mulets pouvaient passer.
Cordialement.
Lucke33
Salut Bernard,
Et bien me voilà plus instruit. Je ne le savais pas du tout et je n'ai jamais fait attention plus que ça. La michelin je ne m'en sert que rarement.
Mais c'est normal que tu n'aies pas pu trouver le moyen de basculer car seul le mulet passait. Moi aussi j'avais cherché.
Cette piste a été achevé au printemps 2016.
C'est justement le col au dessus de Tabant qui n'était pas terminé. Elle en vaut le coup. C'est une superbe ballade.
Je rajoute pour les routards à pattes que des vieux merco font la traversée pour 70 dhs env.
Et bien me voilà plus instruit. Je ne le savais pas du tout et je n'ai jamais fait attention plus que ça. La michelin je ne m'en sert que rarement.
Mais c'est normal que tu n'aies pas pu trouver le moyen de basculer car seul le mulet passait. Moi aussi j'avais cherché.
Cette piste a été achevé au printemps 2016.
C'est justement le col au dessus de Tabant qui n'était pas terminé. Elle en vaut le coup. C'est une superbe ballade.
Je rajoute pour les routards à pattes que des vieux merco font la traversée pour 70 dhs env.
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
Bonjour
Pour mémoire un message de Darzel 2017:
Lundi = Tnine,
Mardi = Tleta,
Mercredi = Arbaa,
Jeudi = Khemiss,
Vendredi = Jemaa, qui signifie l'assemblée et par extention la Mosquée (Masjid en arabe classique).
Samedi = Sebt,
Dimanche = Had (en fait Ahad), d'où Souk el Had
Bons marchandages...
« On parle toujours de la violence du fleuve qui déborde ses berges - jamais de la violence des berges qui enserrent le fleuve... » disait Berthold Brecht
Bonjour et merci pour ce petit rappel de vocabulaire. A force de naviguer au GPS, moins de contact avec la population, donc, petit oublie de l’essentiel. Bientôt retour pour "un Maroc", je vais m'y remettre. En fait, le premier jour de la semaine étant dimanche, la dénomination des jours est assez semblable aux nombres.
A Olivier : certainement que ce parcours sera à mon programme. Quand je demandais à Tabant la possibilité de passer avec le Land Rover, ils me prenaient pour un fou, mon épouse aussi, c'était il y a plus d'une dizaine d'années. D'un côté, ça arrange les motorisés, y compris les habitants de la vallée, mais c'est moins sympathique pour les randonneurs.
Cordialement.
A Olivier : certainement que ce parcours sera à mon programme. Quand je demandais à Tabant la possibilité de passer avec le Land Rover, ils me prenaient pour un fou, mon épouse aussi, c'était il y a plus d'une dizaine d'années. D'un côté, ça arrange les motorisés, y compris les habitants de la vallée, mais c'est moins sympathique pour les randonneurs.
Cordialement.
Lucke33
Oui je comprends mais je dirais que ce sera justement un avantage pour d'autres randonneurs...
Faire 100 km est quand même une grosse ballade. Ce n'est pas la majorité des gens qui prennent cette piste à pied. Et je m'avancerai même en disant que la majorité sont des trekkeurs d'agence.
Maintenant que l'on peut aller dans la vallée du M'Goun, cela ouvre un beau terrain de ballade. Je ne crois pas que ça ira vite, il reste encore un peu de temps avant que la vallée ne change, l'hiver fermera impitoyablement les accès. Donc peu de chance que de gros investissements s'y fassent.
On peut désormais en saison et si les eaux sont calmes visiter les gorges d'Achabou plus facilement depuis ce côté ci...
Faire 100 km est quand même une grosse ballade. Ce n'est pas la majorité des gens qui prennent cette piste à pied. Et je m'avancerai même en disant que la majorité sont des trekkeurs d'agence.
Maintenant que l'on peut aller dans la vallée du M'Goun, cela ouvre un beau terrain de ballade. Je ne crois pas que ça ira vite, il reste encore un peu de temps avant que la vallée ne change, l'hiver fermera impitoyablement les accès. Donc peu de chance que de gros investissements s'y fassent.
On peut désormais en saison et si les eaux sont calmes visiter les gorges d'Achabou plus facilement depuis ce côté ci...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
Bonjour Olivier,
Je suis nouveau sur le site, je suis tombé sur cette page en faisant des recherches sur les trek dans la region de ait bougmaz. Je souhaite (avec ma femme et un couple d'amis) faire le trek en VTT , à partir de la vallée AIT BOUGMAZ , pour arriver à BOU THARAR.
Est ce que c'est faisable? la piste est elle praticable? Nous souhaitons faire le départ début Juin.
Merci de votre retour.
Je suis nouveau sur le site, je suis tombé sur cette page en faisant des recherches sur les trek dans la region de ait bougmaz. Je souhaite (avec ma femme et un couple d'amis) faire le trek en VTT , à partir de la vallée AIT BOUGMAZ , pour arriver à BOU THARAR.
Est ce que c'est faisable? la piste est elle praticable? Nous souhaitons faire le départ début Juin.
Merci de votre retour.
Salut Aziz.
Déjà tu abordes la piste par le côté le moins difficile.
Faisable oui sauf si un gros orage fait du ménage. Maintenant, c'est surtout une question de capacité et là c'est toi qui le sait. Il te faut un niveau pour pouvoir atteindre les différents gîtes. Si tu as mon niveau de pédale, prévois du camping. 😁
Certains passages sont pleins de petits cailloux. Après moi je suis surtout porté sur les 4 roues. Je peux apporter des conseils à un bon cycliste car je sais qu'il saura déchiffrer mes dires mais je ne sais pas si mes propos seront adaptable à un débutant. Donc prend mes infos avec prudence.
Déjà tu abordes la piste par le côté le moins difficile.
Faisable oui sauf si un gros orage fait du ménage. Maintenant, c'est surtout une question de capacité et là c'est toi qui le sait. Il te faut un niveau pour pouvoir atteindre les différents gîtes. Si tu as mon niveau de pédale, prévois du camping. 😁
Certains passages sont pleins de petits cailloux. Après moi je suis surtout porté sur les 4 roues. Je peux apporter des conseils à un bon cycliste car je sais qu'il saura déchiffrer mes dires mais je ne sais pas si mes propos seront adaptable à un débutant. Donc prend mes infos avec prudence.
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
bonjour,
j'envisage en avril de relier en cyclo depuis Bou-Thrarar la vallée des Aît-Bougmès en passant par Amejgag , Amesker , le Tizi-n-Aît-Hamed pour ensuite rejoindre EL-HAD..
Q1--est-ce goudronné ou de la piste ???
Q2- y at-il auberge ou gite à El-Had ???
merci d'avance pour toutes infos à ce sujet...
Cdlt..Rv..et meilleurs voeux à tous !!!!
Bonjour je vois que vous avez déjà beaucoup de réponses et bonnes. Attention en Avril, j'avais de la neige l'an passé dans le Tizi Ait Ami (le col le plus près de Taban ou el had) A Taban je connais Dar SiHamou et gîte Imarin (en fait à Agouti) A+
Bonjour je vois que vous avez déjà beaucoup de réponses et bonnes. Attention en Avril, j'avais de la neige l'an passé dans le Tizi Ait Ami (le col le plus près de Taban ou el had) A Taban je connais Dar SiHamou et gîte Imarin (en fait à Agouti) A+
bonjour Claude,
oui je risque d'avoir la neige si l'hiver est rude et tardif...j'aviserai avant d'y monter..auquel cas je modifierai mon trajet...oui j'ai eut de bonnes infos et mon tracé est bien ficelé...à. ce jour ; plus qu'a attendre le moi d'avril.. j'ai reprit l'entrainement après une pause d'un mois pour avoir la condition....pour la partie Omjrane-Tafrout-Er-remlia -Taouz, j'ai eut vent que la zone était inondé suite à de fortes pluie; là aussi je verrai sur place l'état des pistes; car si trop boueux pas possible à VTT....merci pour l'info à Agouti...santé et pleins de voyages 2019.... cdlt...Rv.
Rv.
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I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
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I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
Hi there!
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

Hi, I'm looking for a Pino tandem bike for sale in Quebec and I can't find any. Does anyone have any info, please? Thanks a bunch!
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
hey everyone,
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php

The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php


The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉