Hi there,
I’m planning my first trip to Asia next summer with my partner and our daughter, who’ll be 3 and a half at the time, for 4 weeks (maybe 5).
I’ve heard that the timing is better for visiting Indonesia, but I’m hesitant because Thailand seems more accessible, and I’m worried that traveling to Indonesia during high season might be less enjoyable and a lot more expensive due to the number of tourists. We love cultural sites as much as natural ones, and we’re big foodies. We’re not necessarily looking for luxury and tend to take our time, travel by public transport, and look for accommodations with a good value for money—though we do occasionally splurge on a high-end restaurant.
I’m also wondering when and where to buy flight tickets and how comfortable the journey will be (especially for our daughter) if we fly with Thai Airways or Garuda.
Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts and tips!
Damien
40 similar discussions in English
Hi everyone,
First post in years on the forum—I’m so happy it’s back up and running!
I’ve been wrestling with this question for weeks now: Flores or Sulawesi?
I’m leaving in July for 24 days, followed by 2 weeks around Makassar/Wakatobi for work. For the first part, I’m traveling with my family (my partner + 3 kids aged 6 to 14).
I’ve had a long-time dream of Komodo, but I’m worried it’s become super touristy... though the crossing to Maumere still sounds amazing. I’m also not thrilled about all the internal flights.
On the other hand, since I’ll be in Sulawesi anyway, I’m thinking a crossing from Gorontalo to Luwuk via the Togians (maybe even a few days in Banggai) + a detour to Toraja (which I visited 10 years ago) could be an incredible trip too.
For my family, this is their first trip to Indonesia, so I’d love it to feel *mythic* ;).
Any advice is welcome—I’m really struggling to decide! I know it’s a choice between two great options...
Thanks!
I’ve been wrestling with this question for weeks now: Flores or Sulawesi?
I’m leaving in July for 24 days, followed by 2 weeks around Makassar/Wakatobi for work. For the first part, I’m traveling with my family (my partner + 3 kids aged 6 to 14).
I’ve had a long-time dream of Komodo, but I’m worried it’s become super touristy... though the crossing to Maumere still sounds amazing. I’m also not thrilled about all the internal flights.
On the other hand, since I’ll be in Sulawesi anyway, I’m thinking a crossing from Gorontalo to Luwuk via the Togians (maybe even a few days in Banggai) + a detour to Toraja (which I visited 10 years ago) could be an incredible trip too.
For my family, this is their first trip to Indonesia, so I’d love it to feel *mythic* ;).
Any advice is welcome—I’m really struggling to decide! I know it’s a choice between two great options...
Thanks!
I’d been wanting to discover Sulawesi for years. But then life happened—COVID, the cost of flight tickets, you name it. Long story short, years went by, but we finally set off as a family for a three-week trip in southern Sulawesi: Rammang Rammang, Rantepao, Sengkang, Bira, and Selayar.
I like to spend a good amount of time in the places I visit, giving myself the chance to really get to know the area and meet locals. So no island-hopping this time—just the south. But when I say "just," it’s not restrictive at all, given how rich this island is in landscapes, little encounters, and magical moments.
Wednesday 07/08 - Thursday 07/09: We left Montpellier for what was supposed to be five flights, though we only took four to start, landing in Jakarta. We picked up our luggage there to catch a flight to Makassar the next day. That’s the only way we could get an affordable ticket (702 €). I won’t bore you with the flight details—there’s not much to say. We arrived at 7 PM and considered heading straight to Makassar that evening. But we opted for a recovery night before taking off again. Good thing we did, because my son’s suitcase was missing... First contact with the locals was a bit stressful—a trip without your luggage isn’t exactly fun. But right away, a woman reassured us: the suitcase was just enjoying some extra time in Singapore. Maybe it was doing some last-minute shopping. Anyway, nothing serious—it was supposed to arrive at 9 AM the next day. That gave us some breathing room since our flight wasn’t until noon. So off we went to our hotel (Days Hotel & Suites) near the airport. It was cheap (40 € for three rooms—my kids are older and need their space), but it wasn’t worth much more. The place had definitely seen better days. But no big deal—we were only there for the night, and... we got to watch France beat Morocco in the World Cup live at 3 AM. That’s what really mattered!
Friday 07/10: In search of the lost suitcase First challenge of the morning: finding our missing suitcase. They sent us to the airport basement, to the staff entrance. We were greeted with smiles, and an airport employee led me through the underground corridors back to the baggage claim. Right on time at 9 AM, the suitcase arrived, just like they’d promised. We were finally complete! Off we went to change terminals, grab a well-deserved meal, and board our fifth flight to Makassar. Little side note: I struggled for a while trying to book domestic flights directly on the airlines’ websites with no luck. Without meaning to advertise (though I guess I am a little), I realized it’d be easier to use sites like tiket.com or Traveloka. That turned out to be a great choice—I even ended up booking hotels through them later in the trip. 12:40 PM: We were on our way to Makassar. First good news: we were the only tourists. Well, the only European tourists on the flight, anyway. No, you’re not dreaming—the bag is full of... potato chip packets. To each their own souvenirs, I guess...
When we arrived in Makassar, a driver was waiting to take us straight to Rammang Rammang: 250,000 IDR (12 €) to our guesthouse (Rammang Rammang House). Forget about meeting people on the bus—we were headed straight to the first stop of our trip, and it was already stunning.
My kids’ guesthouse:
Ours:
View of the little lake:
But not everything is straightforward around here. I wanted to get a local SIM card for internet and calls. I found them expensive at Jakarta’s airport (20 € for 20 GB), so I decided to wait. Well, no luck in Rammang Rammang either. You can’t just buy one from the local shop—you need a Telkomsat store (they have the best coverage). So we’d have to wait for Rantepao to get Wi-Fi... When I say "local shop," I mean the little shack around the corner. No big deal—we’d find one easily in Rantepao for 5 € and 25 GB. So there we were, offline, just the four of us enjoying the amazing view.
Saturday 07/11: Rammang Rammang We woke up early to the sound of wedding music blasting through the village (everyone’s invited!). Off we went to explore the area. A little walking, a little boat ride (shared with a French tourist and a Polish one—yes, there *are* tourists here, just not many; 750,000 IDR for up to 8 people) through a lovely canal, and we discovered the karst site. It was peaceful and beautiful. The river:
The karst site:
Wednesday 07/08 - Thursday 07/09: We left Montpellier for what was supposed to be five flights, though we only took four to start, landing in Jakarta. We picked up our luggage there to catch a flight to Makassar the next day. That’s the only way we could get an affordable ticket (702 €). I won’t bore you with the flight details—there’s not much to say. We arrived at 7 PM and considered heading straight to Makassar that evening. But we opted for a recovery night before taking off again. Good thing we did, because my son’s suitcase was missing... First contact with the locals was a bit stressful—a trip without your luggage isn’t exactly fun. But right away, a woman reassured us: the suitcase was just enjoying some extra time in Singapore. Maybe it was doing some last-minute shopping. Anyway, nothing serious—it was supposed to arrive at 9 AM the next day. That gave us some breathing room since our flight wasn’t until noon. So off we went to our hotel (Days Hotel & Suites) near the airport. It was cheap (40 € for three rooms—my kids are older and need their space), but it wasn’t worth much more. The place had definitely seen better days. But no big deal—we were only there for the night, and... we got to watch France beat Morocco in the World Cup live at 3 AM. That’s what really mattered!
Friday 07/10: In search of the lost suitcase First challenge of the morning: finding our missing suitcase. They sent us to the airport basement, to the staff entrance. We were greeted with smiles, and an airport employee led me through the underground corridors back to the baggage claim. Right on time at 9 AM, the suitcase arrived, just like they’d promised. We were finally complete! Off we went to change terminals, grab a well-deserved meal, and board our fifth flight to Makassar. Little side note: I struggled for a while trying to book domestic flights directly on the airlines’ websites with no luck. Without meaning to advertise (though I guess I am a little), I realized it’d be easier to use sites like tiket.com or Traveloka. That turned out to be a great choice—I even ended up booking hotels through them later in the trip. 12:40 PM: We were on our way to Makassar. First good news: we were the only tourists. Well, the only European tourists on the flight, anyway. No, you’re not dreaming—the bag is full of... potato chip packets. To each their own souvenirs, I guess...
When we arrived in Makassar, a driver was waiting to take us straight to Rammang Rammang: 250,000 IDR (12 €) to our guesthouse (Rammang Rammang House). Forget about meeting people on the bus—we were headed straight to the first stop of our trip, and it was already stunning.
My kids’ guesthouse:
Ours:
View of the little lake:
But not everything is straightforward around here. I wanted to get a local SIM card for internet and calls. I found them expensive at Jakarta’s airport (20 € for 20 GB), so I decided to wait. Well, no luck in Rammang Rammang either. You can’t just buy one from the local shop—you need a Telkomsat store (they have the best coverage). So we’d have to wait for Rantepao to get Wi-Fi... When I say "local shop," I mean the little shack around the corner. No big deal—we’d find one easily in Rantepao for 5 € and 25 GB. So there we were, offline, just the four of us enjoying the amazing view.
Saturday 07/11: Rammang Rammang We woke up early to the sound of wedding music blasting through the village (everyone’s invited!). Off we went to explore the area. A little walking, a little boat ride (shared with a French tourist and a Polish one—yes, there *are* tourists here, just not many; 750,000 IDR for up to 8 people) through a lovely canal, and we discovered the karst site. It was peaceful and beautiful. The river:
The karst site:
Here’s the thing: ever since Sumatra, I’ve become picky.
I don’t want the grey-green of the North Sea anymore. I want turquoise, crystal-clear waters—so clear you can see the coral 10 meters down. You see it, right?
I don’t want those "equatorial greenhouses" you visit politely in well-maintained park alleys. I want wild, humid, buzzing jungle—hostile yet captivating at the same time.
I don’t want wheat that becomes flour that becomes bread that dips into soup. I want jade-green rice terraces rippling in the wind through distant valleys, where you can enjoy a nasi goreng.
I want more! I want coconut trees in sight, fine sand underfoot, smiles in the streets, and the world’s largest volcanic lake with a charming little island inside. Simple, really!
Here’s the 26-day itinerary across this island:
LAKE TOBA: 4 days It’s the story of a volcanic island at the bottom of a lake at the bottom of a volcano. The lake is Toba. The island is Samosir. Time here is for pausing. Time is for savoring lobsters, swimming in calm waters, enjoying the mild climate without the tourist crowds. And when time isn’t for pausing, it’s for wandering at a leisurely pace—walking, canoeing, or scootering. You’ll discover lush jungle landscapes, Batak villages (a Christian ethnic group) with surprising architecture, small inner lakes, and breathtaking views from the summit. Tuk Tuk, the main village on Samosir, offers plenty of charming restaurants and accommodations. But you can also venture into lost villages and find a peaceful haven with locals... and never want to leave. If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: Lake Toba.
BERASTAGI: 2 days We’re in the heart of Sumatra’s volcanoes. Berastagi is the starting point for climbing the smoking, sulfurous mountains nearby. The town itself isn’t interesting, but you’ll find everything you need (markets, lodging, warungs, restaurants...). For the volcanoes, the most accessible is Gunung Sibayak. No guide needed—the hike only takes a few hours (depending on where you start). All accommodations provide clear directions. The summit is only 2,095 meters high. Oh, this volcano isn’t all that impressive. But it’s really nice to feel the earth’s warmth in this lunar, ochre-yellow landscape, through the hissing fumaroles escaping the rocks. The place is stunning on a clear day, or even better if you’re lucky enough to rise above the clouds. Across from it, you’ll see the splendid view of a more turbulent neighboring volcano: Mount Sinabung and its dramas.
The jungle KETAMBE: 4 days
This is the real jungle. Not the Hollywood studio kind or the city zoo version. No: the jungle. Teeming, dense, humid, and noisy. With the help of a specialized guide, we spotted plenty of insects and birds, long-tailed macaques, "Thomas leaf monkeys," and the much-anticipated orangutan... Ketambe is less touristy than Bukit Lawang. The animals are completely wild, not "semi-tame." This part of Gunung Leuser National Park is also harder to access, but the experience remains authentic even as tourism grows. In these times of deforestation advancing like a terrestrial cancer, experiencing the jungle is a unique, moving, essential moment: it’s "For the wild beauty of the last primary forests" (Le Monde, November 13, 2013). Leech socks and a small backpack: you’re ready for a multi-day trek? Off you go for muddy slopes, liters of sweat, hot rivers, endless green... and primates! Sleeping at least one night is a memorable adventure: the sounds of the jungle in total darkness deliver their dose of sensations, chills, and lifelong memories. If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: the Ketambe jungle.
PULAU WEH: 5 days It’s all here: turquoise waters, fishing villages, thrilling scuba diving, lush jungle, coconut trees, warungs, and fresh fish on abandoned beaches with seashells and crustaceans. A small island north of Sumatra (50 minutes by ferry), Pulau Weh is slowly recovering from the 2004 tsunami. For now, the place isn’t overrun by tourists. But the infrastructure is more pleasant than in the rest of Sumatra. You’ll find some charming bungalows right on the water. Rent a scooter, and you can easily find yourself alone on a paradise-like cove for a romantic sunset. For the party scene, uh... it’s pretty quiet! People come here mainly for scuba diving with its colorful corals (though some have bleached) and lively marine life. Snorkeling also reveals beautiful sights. If you’re not here to swim, there’s always lazing on the beach in a hammock, sipping while gazing at the turquoise waves. That’s great too! If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: Pulau Weh.
LAKE MANINJAU: 2 days The mist yawns slowly over the waters at dawn. When it finally lifts, you discover a blue treasure at the bottom of the old volcano’s caldera. In central-west Sumatra, Lake Maninjau is home to the Minang Kabau people. Less touristy than Lake Toba, it still offers equally beautiful landscapes. By scooter, a full day is enough to circle the lake (40 km) through villages, jungle, and rice terraces: it’s very pleasant, especially the southern part where traffic is light. You’ll find bungalows by the water, mainly near the village of Maninjau (yes, same name as the lake). From the crater’s heights, you can admire the whole of Maninjau (the lake!). To get there, you can navigate the 44 hairpin turns (!) by motorized vehicle from Maninjau (the village!) or tackle the path climbing from Bayur to Puncak Lawang, where the view is... top (yes, same name as the village).
HARAU VALLEY: 3 days Magnificent rice terraces surrounded by towering cliffs and cascading waterfalls. That’s what awaits the adventurer—happy like Ulysses after a long journey to the fertile Harau Valley. It’s peaceful, off the beaten path, and rejuvenating. Few tourists here, and few accommodations. The well-known Abdi Homestay offers quiet bungalows, slightly set back from the main road, in a stunning setting. Again, renting a scooter is a great idea, but here, "happiness is in the fields"—well, the rice terraces. So, park your two wheels and venture along the paths crisscrossing the terraces, following small streams, brushing past villages lost in the valley. If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: Harau Valley.
BEACHES SOUTH of PADANG: 4 days 20 km south of Padang lies Bungus Beach. But that’s not it yet... You’ll need to take a fisherman’s boat for 40 minutes south to land on a peninsula inaccessible by car. That’s the minimum to reach this little paradise, nestled between jungle and sea, far from Padang’s pollution and hustle. An Eden on an isolated beach, with nothing but small bungalows and possible excursions to the nearby islands. The only way to get around: by boat and on foot... Pure bliss, toes in the water. And on the blog "Un tour dans le sac", nothing is spared—especially not the description to make your mouth water (Indian Ocean water, that is): sublime turquoise waters, postcard-perfect coconut trees, lazing in your favorite hammock.
For the practical side, here’s some info:
Sumatra Travel: Itinerary Summary My thoughts Sumatra is a magnificent Indonesian island and still relatively untouched. Tourists mainly flock to Java and Bali. It’s especially suited for nature lovers who’ll appreciate its volcanoes, paradise islands, jungle, and rice terraces. Sumatra is huge: in 3 weeks, we only visited the northern half of the island... And even then, we barely scratched the surface of this stunning part of Sumatra. That said, this itinerary offers an exceptional variety of landscapes: beaches, volcanoes, rice terraces, jungle—the winning combo!
Overall, Sumatra is still lacking in infrastructure, and maybe that’s a good thing: it’s far from Bali’s rampant "hotel urbanization." That said, you’ll have to accept spartan comfort: Sumatra, as beautiful as it is, is only for backpackers, adventurers, and travelers who can do without cozy 3-star hotels. In short, Sumatra is earned, but the effort is well worth it, and the warm welcome from the locals will make you forget the minor travel inconveniences.
A disappointment? The food isn’t as good as Bali’s (check out our article on the subject (link)). The stop in Berastagi is nice but not essential, especially if you’ve already seen Java’s impressive volcanoes.
A favorite? There were so many! But if I had to choose, I’d pick the Ketambe jungle. It was my first experience in a natural environment I didn’t know: a primary forest and memories that’ll last!
Would I do the Sumatra trip again? I regret not going to the Mentawai Islands. This archipelago, off Sumatra’s west coast, has long remained isolated: some inhabitants still live traditionally. These "flower men" live in harmony with nature. Unfortunately, their way of life is threatened by modern influences, and their fragile, unique culture risks disappearing. I would’ve loved to spend time with this incredible ethnic group. But it takes time: a week seems necessary. I would’ve had to skip some stops in our itinerary—maybe the peninsula south of Bungus and Berastagi?
Budget: It’s really cheap, especially the food, which, let’s be honest, isn’t amazing. Backpackers who can settle for spartan comfort (small bungalows without AC or hot water) and local food in warungs can easily get by on 20 € per day for two people (food + lodging). The cost of flights from Europe to Sumatra remains high. For our part, we found great deals on Paris-Hong Kong tickets (350 € round trip). Then you just need to reach Medan by low-cost airline.
No mandatory tipping in restaurants or accommodations. However, it’s more common to tip guides or taxi drivers.
Like many places in Indonesia, everything is negotiable. If you’re new to this, it’s not easy at first... Especially when dealing with a population poorer than us, "rich Westerners." But bargaining is part of the local culture! And you’ll get used to it—it even becomes fun. Plus, you don’t want to be that tourist paying the "tourist price" they’ll likely quote first, right?
To negotiate, be firm, respect your counterpart, smile, stay polite... Clearly show it’s too expensive or that the deal is done (by shaking hands, for example). Typing the numbers on your phone helps communicate the price. Learning a few words in the local language ("It’s too expensive," "How much?") is appreciated! Okay, it’s a rough tip, but here’s a base: dividing the first price by 2 gets you close to a fair negotiation.
Currently, 15,000 Indonesian rupiahs are worth about 1 €.
Accommodation Infrastructure is underdeveloped in Sumatra. You’ll find fewer "charming lodgings" than in Bali. Still, there are some very pleasant places. If you read our Sumatra articles, we recommend Abdi Homestay in Harau Valley and Silimalumbo at Lake Toba. In Pulau Weh, the choice is wider, but we suggest trying the seafood pasta at Bixio Café!
Health We didn’t get sick in Sumatra. By following a few simple rules (avoiding tap water, not swimming in stagnant freshwater), you’ll avoid the main issues. Hygiene is improving anyway. Anti-malaria treatment is still recommended, but cases are rare.
Also, keep in mind that Sumatra has a hot, humid climate—adjust your behavior accordingly (stay hydrated, protect yourself from the sun, etc.).
Here’s the 26-day itinerary across this island:
LAKE TOBA: 4 days It’s the story of a volcanic island at the bottom of a lake at the bottom of a volcano. The lake is Toba. The island is Samosir. Time here is for pausing. Time is for savoring lobsters, swimming in calm waters, enjoying the mild climate without the tourist crowds. And when time isn’t for pausing, it’s for wandering at a leisurely pace—walking, canoeing, or scootering. You’ll discover lush jungle landscapes, Batak villages (a Christian ethnic group) with surprising architecture, small inner lakes, and breathtaking views from the summit. Tuk Tuk, the main village on Samosir, offers plenty of charming restaurants and accommodations. But you can also venture into lost villages and find a peaceful haven with locals... and never want to leave. If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: Lake Toba.
BERASTAGI: 2 days We’re in the heart of Sumatra’s volcanoes. Berastagi is the starting point for climbing the smoking, sulfurous mountains nearby. The town itself isn’t interesting, but you’ll find everything you need (markets, lodging, warungs, restaurants...). For the volcanoes, the most accessible is Gunung Sibayak. No guide needed—the hike only takes a few hours (depending on where you start). All accommodations provide clear directions. The summit is only 2,095 meters high. Oh, this volcano isn’t all that impressive. But it’s really nice to feel the earth’s warmth in this lunar, ochre-yellow landscape, through the hissing fumaroles escaping the rocks. The place is stunning on a clear day, or even better if you’re lucky enough to rise above the clouds. Across from it, you’ll see the splendid view of a more turbulent neighboring volcano: Mount Sinabung and its dramas.
The jungle KETAMBE: 4 days
This is the real jungle. Not the Hollywood studio kind or the city zoo version. No: the jungle. Teeming, dense, humid, and noisy. With the help of a specialized guide, we spotted plenty of insects and birds, long-tailed macaques, "Thomas leaf monkeys," and the much-anticipated orangutan... Ketambe is less touristy than Bukit Lawang. The animals are completely wild, not "semi-tame." This part of Gunung Leuser National Park is also harder to access, but the experience remains authentic even as tourism grows. In these times of deforestation advancing like a terrestrial cancer, experiencing the jungle is a unique, moving, essential moment: it’s "For the wild beauty of the last primary forests" (Le Monde, November 13, 2013). Leech socks and a small backpack: you’re ready for a multi-day trek? Off you go for muddy slopes, liters of sweat, hot rivers, endless green... and primates! Sleeping at least one night is a memorable adventure: the sounds of the jungle in total darkness deliver their dose of sensations, chills, and lifelong memories. If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: the Ketambe jungle.
PULAU WEH: 5 days It’s all here: turquoise waters, fishing villages, thrilling scuba diving, lush jungle, coconut trees, warungs, and fresh fish on abandoned beaches with seashells and crustaceans. A small island north of Sumatra (50 minutes by ferry), Pulau Weh is slowly recovering from the 2004 tsunami. For now, the place isn’t overrun by tourists. But the infrastructure is more pleasant than in the rest of Sumatra. You’ll find some charming bungalows right on the water. Rent a scooter, and you can easily find yourself alone on a paradise-like cove for a romantic sunset. For the party scene, uh... it’s pretty quiet! People come here mainly for scuba diving with its colorful corals (though some have bleached) and lively marine life. Snorkeling also reveals beautiful sights. If you’re not here to swim, there’s always lazing on the beach in a hammock, sipping while gazing at the turquoise waves. That’s great too! If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: Pulau Weh.
LAKE MANINJAU: 2 days The mist yawns slowly over the waters at dawn. When it finally lifts, you discover a blue treasure at the bottom of the old volcano’s caldera. In central-west Sumatra, Lake Maninjau is home to the Minang Kabau people. Less touristy than Lake Toba, it still offers equally beautiful landscapes. By scooter, a full day is enough to circle the lake (40 km) through villages, jungle, and rice terraces: it’s very pleasant, especially the southern part where traffic is light. You’ll find bungalows by the water, mainly near the village of Maninjau (yes, same name as the lake). From the crater’s heights, you can admire the whole of Maninjau (the lake!). To get there, you can navigate the 44 hairpin turns (!) by motorized vehicle from Maninjau (the village!) or tackle the path climbing from Bayur to Puncak Lawang, where the view is... top (yes, same name as the village).
HARAU VALLEY: 3 days Magnificent rice terraces surrounded by towering cliffs and cascading waterfalls. That’s what awaits the adventurer—happy like Ulysses after a long journey to the fertile Harau Valley. It’s peaceful, off the beaten path, and rejuvenating. Few tourists here, and few accommodations. The well-known Abdi Homestay offers quiet bungalows, slightly set back from the main road, in a stunning setting. Again, renting a scooter is a great idea, but here, "happiness is in the fields"—well, the rice terraces. So, park your two wheels and venture along the paths crisscrossing the terraces, following small streams, brushing past villages lost in the valley. If you want to know more and see all the photos, it’s here: Harau Valley.
BEACHES SOUTH of PADANG: 4 days 20 km south of Padang lies Bungus Beach. But that’s not it yet... You’ll need to take a fisherman’s boat for 40 minutes south to land on a peninsula inaccessible by car. That’s the minimum to reach this little paradise, nestled between jungle and sea, far from Padang’s pollution and hustle. An Eden on an isolated beach, with nothing but small bungalows and possible excursions to the nearby islands. The only way to get around: by boat and on foot... Pure bliss, toes in the water. And on the blog "Un tour dans le sac", nothing is spared—especially not the description to make your mouth water (Indian Ocean water, that is): sublime turquoise waters, postcard-perfect coconut trees, lazing in your favorite hammock.
For the practical side, here’s some info:
Sumatra Travel: Itinerary Summary My thoughts Sumatra is a magnificent Indonesian island and still relatively untouched. Tourists mainly flock to Java and Bali. It’s especially suited for nature lovers who’ll appreciate its volcanoes, paradise islands, jungle, and rice terraces. Sumatra is huge: in 3 weeks, we only visited the northern half of the island... And even then, we barely scratched the surface of this stunning part of Sumatra. That said, this itinerary offers an exceptional variety of landscapes: beaches, volcanoes, rice terraces, jungle—the winning combo!
Overall, Sumatra is still lacking in infrastructure, and maybe that’s a good thing: it’s far from Bali’s rampant "hotel urbanization." That said, you’ll have to accept spartan comfort: Sumatra, as beautiful as it is, is only for backpackers, adventurers, and travelers who can do without cozy 3-star hotels. In short, Sumatra is earned, but the effort is well worth it, and the warm welcome from the locals will make you forget the minor travel inconveniences.
A disappointment? The food isn’t as good as Bali’s (check out our article on the subject (link)). The stop in Berastagi is nice but not essential, especially if you’ve already seen Java’s impressive volcanoes.
A favorite? There were so many! But if I had to choose, I’d pick the Ketambe jungle. It was my first experience in a natural environment I didn’t know: a primary forest and memories that’ll last!
Would I do the Sumatra trip again? I regret not going to the Mentawai Islands. This archipelago, off Sumatra’s west coast, has long remained isolated: some inhabitants still live traditionally. These "flower men" live in harmony with nature. Unfortunately, their way of life is threatened by modern influences, and their fragile, unique culture risks disappearing. I would’ve loved to spend time with this incredible ethnic group. But it takes time: a week seems necessary. I would’ve had to skip some stops in our itinerary—maybe the peninsula south of Bungus and Berastagi?
Budget: It’s really cheap, especially the food, which, let’s be honest, isn’t amazing. Backpackers who can settle for spartan comfort (small bungalows without AC or hot water) and local food in warungs can easily get by on 20 € per day for two people (food + lodging). The cost of flights from Europe to Sumatra remains high. For our part, we found great deals on Paris-Hong Kong tickets (350 € round trip). Then you just need to reach Medan by low-cost airline.
No mandatory tipping in restaurants or accommodations. However, it’s more common to tip guides or taxi drivers.
Like many places in Indonesia, everything is negotiable. If you’re new to this, it’s not easy at first... Especially when dealing with a population poorer than us, "rich Westerners." But bargaining is part of the local culture! And you’ll get used to it—it even becomes fun. Plus, you don’t want to be that tourist paying the "tourist price" they’ll likely quote first, right?
To negotiate, be firm, respect your counterpart, smile, stay polite... Clearly show it’s too expensive or that the deal is done (by shaking hands, for example). Typing the numbers on your phone helps communicate the price. Learning a few words in the local language ("It’s too expensive," "How much?") is appreciated! Okay, it’s a rough tip, but here’s a base: dividing the first price by 2 gets you close to a fair negotiation.
Currently, 15,000 Indonesian rupiahs are worth about 1 €.
Accommodation Infrastructure is underdeveloped in Sumatra. You’ll find fewer "charming lodgings" than in Bali. Still, there are some very pleasant places. If you read our Sumatra articles, we recommend Abdi Homestay in Harau Valley and Silimalumbo at Lake Toba. In Pulau Weh, the choice is wider, but we suggest trying the seafood pasta at Bixio Café!
Health We didn’t get sick in Sumatra. By following a few simple rules (avoiding tap water, not swimming in stagnant freshwater), you’ll avoid the main issues. Hygiene is improving anyway. Anti-malaria treatment is still recommended, but cases are rare.
Also, keep in mind that Sumatra has a hot, humid climate—adjust your behavior accordingly (stay hydrated, protect yourself from the sun, etc.).
Hello,
My teenage daughter and I are heading to Sulawesi in July-August for 5 weeks. We don’t know Indonesia at all—this will be our first time. When we travel, we’re not used to booking accommodations in advance because we love improvising based on our mood and what comes up in the moment... For Sulawesi, though, from what I’ve read, I’m a little worried we might get stuck here and there, especially in more touristy spots, if we leave everything open... So, advice from those in the know—what do you think? Should we plan a bit ahead? Thanks a million for your feedback!
A'
My teenage daughter and I are heading to Sulawesi in July-August for 5 weeks. We don’t know Indonesia at all—this will be our first time. When we travel, we’re not used to booking accommodations in advance because we love improvising based on our mood and what comes up in the moment... For Sulawesi, though, from what I’ve read, I’m a little worried we might get stuck here and there, especially in more touristy spots, if we leave everything open... So, advice from those in the know—what do you think? Should we plan a bit ahead? Thanks a million for your feedback!
A'
Hey there, community! Back this weekend, below is my travel journal from my adventure in Indonesia. Enjoy the read!!!
Day 1 - August 10, 2025 New life downloading for three weeks! And for that, Flo and I launched a public tender... A public tender? What’s that got to do with a travel journal???... Well, when you think about it, few destinations tick all the boxes for an August adventure: Meaning, finding a place that’s exotic in the middle of August, not too expensive, not too packed with tourists, warm but not *too* warm, with postcard-perfect landscapes, dreamy beaches, tasty cuisine with a hint of exoticism, friendly and welcoming locals, where you’re free to sleep under the stars among the mosquitos, take transport surrounded by chickens, and even eat from a pig trough if you feel like it—well, turns out it’s not that easy to find! I’d even say, given how thick the list of requirements is, there’s a big risk the tender could be declared unsuccessful for failing to meet just one criterion. Let’s just say the candidates better submit a rock-solid proposal!
After reviewing all the responses and presentations from the candidates, the obvious choice for us is... Indonesia! Except that trying to explore a country as vast as Indonesia and its 17,504 islands in less than five years is a bit like reading the summary of a Proust novel without taking the time to savor each of its 950 pages! Don’t worry, I won’t name them all here. Besides, do they even all have names? No! Only 7,870 have been named—their parents clearly ran out of ideas for the rest. Anyway, our society, which worships the "work more to earn more" mantra, unfortunately limits our adventure time. So we’ll only get to see a small part of Indonesia, and we’ll have to make a tough choice to head for the best of the best in this archipelago of over seventeen thousand islands. Each one has its own selling points: Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java, the Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Papua, Timor, the Moluccas... So many names that smell of adventure... Another tender, another list of requirements, another review of proposals... Drumroll... Splash splash... And the lucky winner is... Ta-da... Java, Bali’s big sister, where I’ve already been eight years ago... Java the programming language. The Java of Broadway. We’re gonna *do* the Java. Java the coffee. And yes, Java is also an island!
This island, four times smaller than France, is home to 136 million people, making it the most populated island in the world! Fun fact: Indonesia, with its 260 million inhabitants, is just shy of the podium for the world’s most populated countries, after the winning trio of India, China, and the United States. And it’s on this island of Java that you’ll find Jakarta, the (soon-to-be-former) capital and main airport of the country, where we’ll soon land after our nineteen-hour flight! Yep, nineteen hours! I mean, Indonesia in general—and Java in particular—is a *tad* farther than going on vacation to Grandma Yoyo’s! Not sure where it is? Easy. Grab a map. Plant your finger on the big island at the bottom right—aka Australia for those who struggle with geography—move it up two centimeters, and bam, welcome to Indonesia!
Nice transition, right? Because "Welcome to Indonesia" is exactly what the friendly flight attendant just said to me as we got off the plane! That’s it, our chakras are open, we’ve arrived at our (air)port. Time for rest, pool, cocktails, and a beach with our toes spread out... Wait, if you bought that, you clearly don’t know us yet! Since we still have energy to burn and need to adjust to the flight and time difference, we tackle the long administrative formalities to enter Indonesia, just to earn the right to hop in a 45-minute Grab taxi to the train station. The train station? What train station?... What do you usually do at a train station? Take a train, of course! Off we go for a three-hour train ride to Bandung, where we’ll officially start our adventure tomorrow after our first Indonesian night...
Unfortunately, we were a bit slow off the mark, which meant we missed the 6:25 PM train by two minutes. Oh well, we’ll have to wait until 11 PM. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs in Jakarta, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy the delicious smells wafting from the *warungs*—those little typical street restaurants. A quick stop at the National Monument, a detour to a night market to devour our first *kwetiaw goreng* and *teh manis* for 60,000 rupiahs (that’s 3 € for two), and just like that, our penalty is lifted, and we’re allowed to hit the road again. Off to Bandung, where we arrive at 2 AM for... a *very* short night...
Day 1 - August 10, 2025 New life downloading for three weeks! And for that, Flo and I launched a public tender... A public tender? What’s that got to do with a travel journal???... Well, when you think about it, few destinations tick all the boxes for an August adventure: Meaning, finding a place that’s exotic in the middle of August, not too expensive, not too packed with tourists, warm but not *too* warm, with postcard-perfect landscapes, dreamy beaches, tasty cuisine with a hint of exoticism, friendly and welcoming locals, where you’re free to sleep under the stars among the mosquitos, take transport surrounded by chickens, and even eat from a pig trough if you feel like it—well, turns out it’s not that easy to find! I’d even say, given how thick the list of requirements is, there’s a big risk the tender could be declared unsuccessful for failing to meet just one criterion. Let’s just say the candidates better submit a rock-solid proposal!
After reviewing all the responses and presentations from the candidates, the obvious choice for us is... Indonesia! Except that trying to explore a country as vast as Indonesia and its 17,504 islands in less than five years is a bit like reading the summary of a Proust novel without taking the time to savor each of its 950 pages! Don’t worry, I won’t name them all here. Besides, do they even all have names? No! Only 7,870 have been named—their parents clearly ran out of ideas for the rest. Anyway, our society, which worships the "work more to earn more" mantra, unfortunately limits our adventure time. So we’ll only get to see a small part of Indonesia, and we’ll have to make a tough choice to head for the best of the best in this archipelago of over seventeen thousand islands. Each one has its own selling points: Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java, the Celebes, Bali, Borneo, Papua, Timor, the Moluccas... So many names that smell of adventure... Another tender, another list of requirements, another review of proposals... Drumroll... Splash splash... And the lucky winner is... Ta-da... Java, Bali’s big sister, where I’ve already been eight years ago... Java the programming language. The Java of Broadway. We’re gonna *do* the Java. Java the coffee. And yes, Java is also an island!
This island, four times smaller than France, is home to 136 million people, making it the most populated island in the world! Fun fact: Indonesia, with its 260 million inhabitants, is just shy of the podium for the world’s most populated countries, after the winning trio of India, China, and the United States. And it’s on this island of Java that you’ll find Jakarta, the (soon-to-be-former) capital and main airport of the country, where we’ll soon land after our nineteen-hour flight! Yep, nineteen hours! I mean, Indonesia in general—and Java in particular—is a *tad* farther than going on vacation to Grandma Yoyo’s! Not sure where it is? Easy. Grab a map. Plant your finger on the big island at the bottom right—aka Australia for those who struggle with geography—move it up two centimeters, and bam, welcome to Indonesia!
Nice transition, right? Because "Welcome to Indonesia" is exactly what the friendly flight attendant just said to me as we got off the plane! That’s it, our chakras are open, we’ve arrived at our (air)port. Time for rest, pool, cocktails, and a beach with our toes spread out... Wait, if you bought that, you clearly don’t know us yet! Since we still have energy to burn and need to adjust to the flight and time difference, we tackle the long administrative formalities to enter Indonesia, just to earn the right to hop in a 45-minute Grab taxi to the train station. The train station? What train station?... What do you usually do at a train station? Take a train, of course! Off we go for a three-hour train ride to Bandung, where we’ll officially start our adventure tomorrow after our first Indonesian night...
Unfortunately, we were a bit slow off the mark, which meant we missed the 6:25 PM train by two minutes. Oh well, we’ll have to wait until 11 PM. We take the opportunity to stretch our legs in Jakarta, soak up the atmosphere, and enjoy the delicious smells wafting from the *warungs*—those little typical street restaurants. A quick stop at the National Monument, a detour to a night market to devour our first *kwetiaw goreng* and *teh manis* for 60,000 rupiahs (that’s 3 € for two), and just like that, our penalty is lifted, and we’re allowed to hit the road again. Off to Bandung, where we arrive at 2 AM for... a *very* short night...
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Indonesia between June and August 2025. I’ll be traveling solo with my two daughters, ages 9 and 13, for 7 weeks, and then solo without them for another 3 weeks.
This trip has a special meaning for me—I’ve got a break between my soon-to-be former job and launching my business. It’s my first big solo trip outside Europe with just my girls, and I’m heading to Indonesia because I’ve dreamed of discovering Bali since I was 12 (though I’m *terrified* of mass tourism!). Also, five years ago, I decided to limit myself to one flight every 10 years—this is my "big 40" trip, and it’s really important to me. I’ll probably never return to Indonesia after this.
Beyond that, I’d love to immerse myself in Balinese culture. For the rest of the trip, I’m especially drawn to nature and its grandeur. Basically, outside of Bali, I’d love to see breathtaking natural landscapes that are totally different from what I can find in Europe. I’d also love to spot some endemic wildlife (which my girls would find exciting too!). And if I can squeeze in a few "chill" days to just relax or go snorkeling in a nice, quiet spot, I’m all for it.
I’d love your advice, especially since I’d like to start in Bali (we’re arriving around June 20th—I’m hoping to avoid the peak tourist crowds from the Northern Hemisphere summer break).
Thanks!
I’m planning a trip to Indonesia between June and August 2025. I’ll be traveling solo with my two daughters, ages 9 and 13, for 7 weeks, and then solo without them for another 3 weeks.
This trip has a special meaning for me—I’ve got a break between my soon-to-be former job and launching my business. It’s my first big solo trip outside Europe with just my girls, and I’m heading to Indonesia because I’ve dreamed of discovering Bali since I was 12 (though I’m *terrified* of mass tourism!). Also, five years ago, I decided to limit myself to one flight every 10 years—this is my "big 40" trip, and it’s really important to me. I’ll probably never return to Indonesia after this.
Beyond that, I’d love to immerse myself in Balinese culture. For the rest of the trip, I’m especially drawn to nature and its grandeur. Basically, outside of Bali, I’d love to see breathtaking natural landscapes that are totally different from what I can find in Europe. I’d also love to spot some endemic wildlife (which my girls would find exciting too!). And if I can squeeze in a few "chill" days to just relax or go snorkeling in a nice, quiet spot, I’m all for it.
I’d love your advice, especially since I’d like to start in Bali (we’re arriving around June 20th—I’m hoping to avoid the peak tourist crowds from the Northern Hemisphere summer break).
Thanks!
🙂 Hi everyone!
Hope you're all doing well! It's been a while since I last traveled, but I'm finally heading out again soon!
For those familiar with SOUTHEAST ASIA, I'm planning to leave in mid-June (with the trip ending at the latest in November), and I don’t have a precise idea of exact places or itineraries yet. The thing is, this period is usually the rainy season...
Any advice? I was thinking of Malaysia or Indonesia, like Sulawesi, for example (all countries and islands in Southeast Asia interest me except Bali).
Any recommendations? I’m doing my research online, but if anyone here has the time and knowledge, I’d love to hear from you.
Thanks everyone, take care and stay happy! ❤️
Hope you're all doing well! It's been a while since I last traveled, but I'm finally heading out again soon!
For those familiar with SOUTHEAST ASIA, I'm planning to leave in mid-June (with the trip ending at the latest in November), and I don’t have a precise idea of exact places or itineraries yet. The thing is, this period is usually the rainy season...
Any advice? I was thinking of Malaysia or Indonesia, like Sulawesi, for example (all countries and islands in Southeast Asia interest me except Bali).
Any recommendations? I’m doing my research online, but if anyone here has the time and knowledge, I’d love to hear from you.
Thanks everyone, take care and stay happy! ❤️
Hi everyone,
We’re a family with two kids who’ll be 3½ and 6½ years old at the time of the trip. We live in the city, and the little ones aren’t big hikers in nature, but they’re pretty cool with transportation. Travel month: May 2026 for 3 weeks (round trip) What we’re looking for: a relaxed trip combining nature, culture, beautiful beaches with snorkeling, and sunshine! We want to take our time with the kids and avoid driving 6 hours every couple of days. We’ve traveled as a couple before but not much with the kids (in Europe, by car).
Choices: I ruled out Mexico for various reasons. I’d also dismissed Indonesia because it seemed more tiring with kids in terms of transportation, but it’s back in my top 2 now! 😊 I also crossed off Sri Lanka because of the monsoon on the west coast in May. So, I’m left with Malaysia (KL-Malacca-Selangor-Borneo Sabah-Perhentian Islands area) or Java (Yogyakarta-Bromo-Karimunjawa Islands)... This list isn’t exhaustive—just some rough ideas.
Budget-wise, we’d like to stay in small hotels with pools for under 100 € in cities, but no need for a pool at the beach. Thanks in advance for your tips! Hélène
We’re a family with two kids who’ll be 3½ and 6½ years old at the time of the trip. We live in the city, and the little ones aren’t big hikers in nature, but they’re pretty cool with transportation. Travel month: May 2026 for 3 weeks (round trip) What we’re looking for: a relaxed trip combining nature, culture, beautiful beaches with snorkeling, and sunshine! We want to take our time with the kids and avoid driving 6 hours every couple of days. We’ve traveled as a couple before but not much with the kids (in Europe, by car).
Choices: I ruled out Mexico for various reasons. I’d also dismissed Indonesia because it seemed more tiring with kids in terms of transportation, but it’s back in my top 2 now! 😊 I also crossed off Sri Lanka because of the monsoon on the west coast in May. So, I’m left with Malaysia (KL-Malacca-Selangor-Borneo Sabah-Perhentian Islands area) or Java (Yogyakarta-Bromo-Karimunjawa Islands)... This list isn’t exhaustive—just some rough ideas.
Budget-wise, we’d like to stay in small hotels with pools for under 100 € in cities, but no need for a pool at the beach. Thanks in advance for your tips! Hélène
Hi there,
After visiting southern Sumatra in 2020 (Padang area, Bukkitinggi, Lake Maninjau), we’re heading north in two weeks to explore.
We’ll arrive in Medan after Singapore.
Then we plan to go to Bukit Lawang, Berastagi, and Lake Toba before finishing up on Pulau Weh.
Yeah, I know three weeks is short, but we like taking our time now that we’re in our fifties 😄.
My questions:
- Which direction should we do the loop: Medan → Bukit Lawang → Lake Toba → Medan (we’ll be traveling by taxi)?
- Can I buy the Medan/Banda Aceh flights just 10 days in advance while we’re there? Any airline to prefer?
Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with this part of the world 😊
hi fellow travelers
I really need your help to plan our trip.
A little background: we’re a family of 2 adults and 2 kids aged 11 and 12.
We’re used to traveling independently—no guide. We’re planning a 1-month trip this summer (August) to Indonesia, but we’re unsure which island would suit us best.
We’ve already been to Bali and don’t want to go back. We land in Jakarta and plan to fly to one or two islands the next day.
We especially love the sea and snorkeling.
We’ve already visited plenty of temples, mountain hikes (I can’t do those anymore after a serious fracture), and seen orangutans.
As you’ve probably guessed, our thing is the big blue and waterfalls. So, what to choose between Lombok, Sulawesi, Flores, and Sumatra for a month? Which island is the most beach and snorkeling-focused based on your experience?
We can take flights, boats, and rent a car—no guide needed. Thank you a thousand times for your valuable tips!
Hi everyone,
As part of a four-month world trip with our kids (ages 6, 12, and 13), we’ll be spending four weeks in Indonesia. Choosing destinations is so tough because everything is just so appealing! We’ll be spending some time on Java and will likely make a "quick trip" to Borneo for the orangutan reserve. We also want to experience Bali’s culture and the small islands of the Lesser Sundas, with their incredible marine life... but which ones should we prioritize? For a few days of diving and relaxation, do you think we should go for Nusa Penida, the Gili Islands, or Moyo Island? Is Sumbawa complicated to explore? Is it worth taking the time to visit? Can it be crossed by car to then reach Komodo National Park? Anyway, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Our goal is to avoid overly touristy spots (but not places that feel too unsafe with the kids), to discover local culture and villages, and to be amazed both underwater and above. Thanks so much for your help!
As part of a four-month world trip with our kids (ages 6, 12, and 13), we’ll be spending four weeks in Indonesia. Choosing destinations is so tough because everything is just so appealing! We’ll be spending some time on Java and will likely make a "quick trip" to Borneo for the orangutan reserve. We also want to experience Bali’s culture and the small islands of the Lesser Sundas, with their incredible marine life... but which ones should we prioritize? For a few days of diving and relaxation, do you think we should go for Nusa Penida, the Gili Islands, or Moyo Island? Is Sumbawa complicated to explore? Is it worth taking the time to visit? Can it be crossed by car to then reach Komodo National Park? Anyway, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Our goal is to avoid overly touristy spots (but not places that feel too unsafe with the kids), to discover local culture and villages, and to be amazed both underwater and above. Thanks so much for your help!
Hi everyone,
I’m a 67-year-old woman who loves to travel, and for my third solo trip, I’ve decided to explore Indonesia.
I’ll be there from September 1st to October 5th, and I’m really struggling to plan my itinerary.
I’d love any advice you can share—I’ll read it all carefully.
So far, I’ve booked my first two nights with a local host in Jakarta, and then I’m heading to Borobudur. That’s all I’ve got planned for now.
Do you think I should book accommodations and transport tickets in advance? It seems really complicated, or could I just decide day by day based on how I feel?
Thanks in advance for your replies!
Hello everyone!
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda. Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs. This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast. Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday. We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠 We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁 We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes. Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing. Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop. On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Next episode coming soon: Ternate.
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda. Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs. This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast. Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday. We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠 We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁 We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes. Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing. Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop. On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Next episode coming soon: Ternate.
Hello everyone!
It’s such a pleasure to be back on VoyageForum after so many years. A long time ago, I used it to plan and share a wonderful trip between Namibia and Botswana.
This time, I’m preparing a family trip for next summer (two parents, a 15-year-old boy, and an 11-year-old girl) that’ll be our big Christmas gift. I already have the flight tickets: we arrive in Denpasar on July 13th and return from Singapore on August 12th.
Our main focus is Indonesia, but since we don’t often get the chance to travel this far, I wanted to take the opportunity to stop in Kuala Lumpur and Singapore on the way back. It’ll give my kids—especially my son, who’s passionate about geography—a taste of these two major cities.
We prefer quiet spots (no need for party vibes or trendy places), though the girls (yes, there are two of them!) still enjoy discovering local crafts, souvenir shops, and the like. We don’t mind organizing things ourselves—I actually love doing that—and I assumed it’d be easy to arrange transport between hotels by booking through them. We’re not chasing cultural discoveries (one beautiful temple is enough; no need to see all 35, even if they’re stunning).
After reading tons of websites, guides, and forum posts, I’ve put together an itinerary I’d love to get your thoughts on. It’s already changed many times… and I’m sure it’ll change again! The goal is to avoid obvious mistakes, see if we’re trying to do too much, or if some places aren’t worth the effort. Here’s what it looks like so far:
- **Day 1**: Arrival in Denpasar in the late afternoon. Transport to a hotel outside Denpasar.
- **Days 2–5 (4 days)**: Bali. We’d like to stay in one or two quiet spots, away from the southern area, to explore the famous rice terraces, temples, and maybe do some light hiking.
- **Day 6**: Transfer to Lombok by fast ferry from Padang Bai (to avoid going back to the busy southern port, since I’ve heard traffic there is chaotic).
- **Days 6–11 (5 days)**: Lombok. We’d especially like to climb Mount Rinjani (we’re in good enough shape for it) and spend 2–3 days in a nice, quiet seaside spot (I was thinking of the southern Gilis near Lembar or the beautiful beaches in the south of the island).
- **Day 11**: Flight from Lombok Airport to Labuan Bajo.
- **Days 12–14**: 3-day/2-night cruise to Rinca and the various "hot spots" of Komodo National Park.
- **Day 15**: Labuan Bajo. I was thinking of doing a beginner’s diving excursion.
- **Day 16**: Flight back to Denpasar, then transfer to Banyuwangi by bus/boat (apparently possible via Express Bahari).
- **Day 17**: Morning visit to Ijen Crater, then return to the same hotel to relax for the rest of the day.
- **Day 18**: Transfer to a base camp for a sunrise visit to Mount Bromo on Day 19. - **Day 19**: Visit Bromo. We’d like to spend the whole day there to enjoy the site once most people have left. - **Day 20**: Transfer to Surabaya or Yogyakarta. - **Day 21**: Flight to Medan, then transfer to Bukit Lawang. - **Days 22–25**: Bukit Lawang. Jungle trek for 2–3 days and some downtime for 1–2 days. - **Day 23**: Transfer to Dumai. - **Day 25**: Boat from Dumai to Malacca.
The rest isn’t as relevant here.
I have a few big doubts, especially: - Is it worth spending 4 days in Bali and 5 in Lombok, or would it be better to focus on just one island? If so, we’d probably lean toward Lombok—it seems quieter, and Rinjani is calling our name…
- I’m counting on the Komodo trip to explore the islands and marine life in the area. It sounds like a true paradise (manta rays, turtles, Komodo dragons…). From what I’ve read, snorkeling in Bali or Lombok doesn’t offer the same experiences. Do you think that’s really the case? I’ve seen some unflattering comments about Labuan Bajo… Originally, I wanted to do the Lombok–Flores crossing by boat, but the "mandatory" whale shark stop in Sumbawa seems controversial, so I ruled it out.
- For the stretch between Days 16 and 21, I’m not sure about the best way to organize things to enjoy Ijen and Bromo without being in constant rush mode or sleeping for just 3 days. I can’t decide whether to stay near the crater (the hotels seem basic—is it worth spending 2 nights there?) or farther away, even if it means more travel. I’ve also considered skipping Bromo to attempt the Semeru climb. There are also some nice spice plantations nearby (Margo Utomo in Kalibaru). Any thoughts?
Anyway, thanks for making it this far! :-)
Looking forward to reading your replies! !
It’s such a pleasure to be back on VoyageForum after so many years. A long time ago, I used it to plan and share a wonderful trip between Namibia and Botswana.
This time, I’m preparing a family trip for next summer (two parents, a 15-year-old boy, and an 11-year-old girl) that’ll be our big Christmas gift. I already have the flight tickets: we arrive in Denpasar on July 13th and return from Singapore on August 12th.
Our main focus is Indonesia, but since we don’t often get the chance to travel this far, I wanted to take the opportunity to stop in Kuala Lumpur and Singapore on the way back. It’ll give my kids—especially my son, who’s passionate about geography—a taste of these two major cities.
We prefer quiet spots (no need for party vibes or trendy places), though the girls (yes, there are two of them!) still enjoy discovering local crafts, souvenir shops, and the like. We don’t mind organizing things ourselves—I actually love doing that—and I assumed it’d be easy to arrange transport between hotels by booking through them. We’re not chasing cultural discoveries (one beautiful temple is enough; no need to see all 35, even if they’re stunning).
After reading tons of websites, guides, and forum posts, I’ve put together an itinerary I’d love to get your thoughts on. It’s already changed many times… and I’m sure it’ll change again! The goal is to avoid obvious mistakes, see if we’re trying to do too much, or if some places aren’t worth the effort. Here’s what it looks like so far:
- **Day 1**: Arrival in Denpasar in the late afternoon. Transport to a hotel outside Denpasar.
- **Days 2–5 (4 days)**: Bali. We’d like to stay in one or two quiet spots, away from the southern area, to explore the famous rice terraces, temples, and maybe do some light hiking.
- **Day 6**: Transfer to Lombok by fast ferry from Padang Bai (to avoid going back to the busy southern port, since I’ve heard traffic there is chaotic).
- **Days 6–11 (5 days)**: Lombok. We’d especially like to climb Mount Rinjani (we’re in good enough shape for it) and spend 2–3 days in a nice, quiet seaside spot (I was thinking of the southern Gilis near Lembar or the beautiful beaches in the south of the island).
- **Day 11**: Flight from Lombok Airport to Labuan Bajo.
- **Days 12–14**: 3-day/2-night cruise to Rinca and the various "hot spots" of Komodo National Park.
- **Day 15**: Labuan Bajo. I was thinking of doing a beginner’s diving excursion.
- **Day 16**: Flight back to Denpasar, then transfer to Banyuwangi by bus/boat (apparently possible via Express Bahari).
- **Day 17**: Morning visit to Ijen Crater, then return to the same hotel to relax for the rest of the day.
- **Day 18**: Transfer to a base camp for a sunrise visit to Mount Bromo on Day 19. - **Day 19**: Visit Bromo. We’d like to spend the whole day there to enjoy the site once most people have left. - **Day 20**: Transfer to Surabaya or Yogyakarta. - **Day 21**: Flight to Medan, then transfer to Bukit Lawang. - **Days 22–25**: Bukit Lawang. Jungle trek for 2–3 days and some downtime for 1–2 days. - **Day 23**: Transfer to Dumai. - **Day 25**: Boat from Dumai to Malacca.
The rest isn’t as relevant here.
I have a few big doubts, especially: - Is it worth spending 4 days in Bali and 5 in Lombok, or would it be better to focus on just one island? If so, we’d probably lean toward Lombok—it seems quieter, and Rinjani is calling our name…
- I’m counting on the Komodo trip to explore the islands and marine life in the area. It sounds like a true paradise (manta rays, turtles, Komodo dragons…). From what I’ve read, snorkeling in Bali or Lombok doesn’t offer the same experiences. Do you think that’s really the case? I’ve seen some unflattering comments about Labuan Bajo… Originally, I wanted to do the Lombok–Flores crossing by boat, but the "mandatory" whale shark stop in Sumbawa seems controversial, so I ruled it out.
- For the stretch between Days 16 and 21, I’m not sure about the best way to organize things to enjoy Ijen and Bromo without being in constant rush mode or sleeping for just 3 days. I can’t decide whether to stay near the crater (the hotels seem basic—is it worth spending 2 nights there?) or farther away, even if it means more travel. I’ve also considered skipping Bromo to attempt the Semeru climb. There are also some nice spice plantations nearby (Margo Utomo in Kalibaru). Any thoughts?
Anyway, thanks for making it this far! :-)
Looking forward to reading your replies! !
Hi there!
We’re a group of 4 heading to Indonesia in April. We’d like to visit Sumba and could use some info on the island and the connections between Flores and Sumba—either by plane or ferry. Is it easy to find accommodations, and how’s the safety? Does anyone know a good guide?
Hi there, we're planning our vacation in Indonesia. We're a family with two kids aged 11 and 14. We leave on July 26th and return on August 17th, 2026.
We initially planned to visit Bali, Komodo, and Flores, but after looking into it more, we came across Sumatra, which is less touristy... a real plus for us. However, skipping Bali might be a shame.
I was wondering if spending 12 days in Sumatra and finishing with about 7 days in Bali is a doable plan.
Thanks for your feedback!
We initially planned to visit Bali, Komodo, and Flores, but after looking into it more, we came across Sumatra, which is less touristy... a real plus for us. However, skipping Bali might be a shame.
I was wondering if spending 12 days in Sumatra and finishing with about 7 days in Bali is a doable plan.
Thanks for your feedback!
Hi everyone,
When we travel abroad, we usually rent a car to be independent with our itinerary and free with our timing. But we get the feeling that it’s not so simple in Indonesia.
Is it feasible, for example, to drive from Bali to Komodo National Park by car? What are the roads like? Can you rent and return cars on these smaller islands?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi everyone,
We’re planning to visit a small part of Indonesia in October 2026 with our kids (8 years old).
Ideally, do you think it’s possible to visit Kinabatangan (3 days), Yogyakarta or Borobudur, and finish with some beginner snorkeling on the Gili Islands in 2 weeks?
Thanks for your valuable feedback! 😊
We’ve already explored Bali, eastern Java, and its volcanoes back in 2013, and we’d love to return to Java to discover other spots that aren’t so "mainstream." There’ll be three of us—a couple and our 25-year-old son. We love nature, small towns, villages, beautiful landscapes, and a bit of beach time... We’re used to backpacking around Southeast Asia. Any tips for exploring some great spots in Java in a coherent way, with 3 or 4 bases for a 3-week trip from late June to mid-July? We don’t want to revisit Bromo or Ijen (they seem way too crowded compared to 2013), and we might swing by Djogja but won’t redo Borobudur or Prambanan (same issue...). Looking forward to your tips! Thanks 🙂
Hi everyone,
I’ve been browsing accommodation sites for the Togian Islands for a few days now.
It’s a bit overwhelming—there are so many options and islands—so I was wondering what the forum members’ favorite spots have been.
We’ll be there for 5-6 days, and we’ll be making the crossing (Gorontalo -> Ampana or the other way around, not sure yet). I’m thinking it might be possible to stop in Bomba or Kadidiri and then Malenge?
We’re looking for simple places to stay—we’re not into luxury resorts. Small beach bungalows would be amazing. Also, one of my kids wants to get their diving certification, so if there’s an option with an accessible dive center, that’d be a plus (though not a must—priority is the scenery, proximity to magical spots, and an authentic vibe).
Thanks for your tips—I’m looking forward to reading your replies!
It’s a bit overwhelming—there are so many options and islands—so I was wondering what the forum members’ favorite spots have been.
We’ll be there for 5-6 days, and we’ll be making the crossing (Gorontalo -> Ampana or the other way around, not sure yet). I’m thinking it might be possible to stop in Bomba or Kadidiri and then Malenge?
We’re looking for simple places to stay—we’re not into luxury resorts. Small beach bungalows would be amazing. Also, one of my kids wants to get their diving certification, so if there’s an option with an accessible dive center, that’d be a plus (though not a must—priority is the scenery, proximity to magical spots, and an authentic vibe).
Thanks for your tips—I’m looking forward to reading your replies!
Hi there, I’m really sorry if this question has already been asked several times—I’ve been scouring blogs, forums, and various sites for a while now, but I still have some more specific questions for our trip...
First off, we’re a family of four with two kids aged 10 and 14. We’ve already been to Thailand and Laos five times with them (each trip lasting a month or six weeks), and we’re huge Thailand lovers, but this year we’d like to discover Indonesia, which we don’t know at all (for a duration of 4 or 5 weeks between late June and late July). We travel pretty "roots" style with a budget of 100 € per day and avoid touristy areas as much as possible. We get around using local transport, rent scooters, and take our time (for a one-month trip, we usually visit 4 destinations to really soak it in). So here are my upcoming questions:
For a first visit, I wanted to focus on a single island—Lombok—by taking a flight from Paris to Denpasar and then a boat to Lombok. Do you think the following route would work? - Kuta Lombok - Gili Gede - Gili Meno - Tetebatu
I saw there’s a local boat to Lombok—has anyone here taken it before? For those who’ve been there during this period, do you know if Gili Meno and Gili Gede get crowded, or should we focus more on the coasts? To get between these spots, are there buses, or do we need to take private taxis? As for accommodations, we’re used to booking triple rooms for all four of us in Thailand. For those who travel with kids, do you know if that’s doable in Indonesia, or should we book two double rooms instead?
Last (slightly silly) question: We want to go to Indonesia because our son dreams of seeing beautiful marine life while snorkeling—I think Lombok is a good choice for that. But my daughter is a huge fan of those "knick-knack" markets full of Chinese trinkets that you find all over Thailand. Do you know if Lombok has any day or night markets where we could go?
Thank you so much for your help! !
First off, we’re a family of four with two kids aged 10 and 14. We’ve already been to Thailand and Laos five times with them (each trip lasting a month or six weeks), and we’re huge Thailand lovers, but this year we’d like to discover Indonesia, which we don’t know at all (for a duration of 4 or 5 weeks between late June and late July). We travel pretty "roots" style with a budget of 100 € per day and avoid touristy areas as much as possible. We get around using local transport, rent scooters, and take our time (for a one-month trip, we usually visit 4 destinations to really soak it in). So here are my upcoming questions:
For a first visit, I wanted to focus on a single island—Lombok—by taking a flight from Paris to Denpasar and then a boat to Lombok. Do you think the following route would work? - Kuta Lombok - Gili Gede - Gili Meno - Tetebatu
I saw there’s a local boat to Lombok—has anyone here taken it before? For those who’ve been there during this period, do you know if Gili Meno and Gili Gede get crowded, or should we focus more on the coasts? To get between these spots, are there buses, or do we need to take private taxis? As for accommodations, we’re used to booking triple rooms for all four of us in Thailand. For those who travel with kids, do you know if that’s doable in Indonesia, or should we book two double rooms instead?
Last (slightly silly) question: We want to go to Indonesia because our son dreams of seeing beautiful marine life while snorkeling—I think Lombok is a good choice for that. But my daughter is a huge fan of those "knick-knack" markets full of Chinese trinkets that you find all over Thailand. Do you know if Lombok has any day or night markets where we could go?
Thank you so much for your help! !
Hi everyone,
I’m currently working on a 30-day itinerary for May/June 2027.
10 days in eastern Java (Malang, Bromo, waterfalls, Meru Beriti Park, Banyuwangi, and Ijen), a short transit in Ubud for a few days, then Flores before heading back to Jakarta.
We’ll spend 15 days in Flores (the classic route: Moni, Bajawa, Riung, Ruteng, ending in Labuan Bajo).
I’d love some firsthand feedback on flights to Maumere or Ende from Bali Denpasar. I know there are no direct routes and that you have to connect through Labuan Bajo or Timor (I think), which isn’t an issue in itself.
But I’ve read here and there that flights to these destinations can be delayed—or worse, canceled—and that it’s better to fly in and out of Labuan Bajo, which isn’t exactly ideal...
Thanks for any tips or experiences you can share!
Hi everyone,
Family of 4—2 adults and 2 kids (11 and 15) who are well-traveled. We’re planning a 15-day trip to Indonesia and would love your thoughts on our itinerary. We love discovering local culture, food (!!), seeing beautiful landscapes, and keeping an active pace. We’re not the type to lounge on the beach for 5 hours or spend ages by the pool when we’re halfway across the world. Also, we try to avoid places "ruined" by mass tourism (like Holbox in Mexico, which we loved 10 years ago but not at all on our last visit, or Phi Phi in Thailand, completely destroyed by mass tourism).
Special note: we love traveling by train :)
Here’s what we’ve planned so far:
**Day 1** Arrival in Jakarta, then domestic flight to Yogyakarta. Settle in Yogyakarta.
**Day 2** Borobudur in the morning, then exploring nearby villages.
**Day 3** Prambanan in the morning, followed by culinary discovery / market / local vibe in Yogyakarta.
**Day 4** Train to Jombang, then driver/bus to the Bromo area. Overnight stay.
**Day 5** Sunrise at Bromo, exploring the volcano and sea of sand. Relax in the afternoon.
**Day 6** Travel to eastern Java, then train, ferry, and road to reach Sidemen in Bali.
**Day 7** Sidemen
**Day 8** Sidemen
**Day 9** Sidemen
**Day 10** Transfer to Gili Air (car to the port + fast boat?)
**Day 11** Gili Air
**Day 12** Gili Air
**Day 13** Transfer to Ubud
**Day 14** Ubud
**Day 15** Return to Bali airport, flight to Jakarta, then international flight.
Does this itinerary seem coherent for a family? Does it feel too packed or well-balanced? Would you make any changes to certain stops, durations, or transfers?
Thanks so much for your tips and experiences!
Family of 4—2 adults and 2 kids (11 and 15) who are well-traveled. We’re planning a 15-day trip to Indonesia and would love your thoughts on our itinerary. We love discovering local culture, food (!!), seeing beautiful landscapes, and keeping an active pace. We’re not the type to lounge on the beach for 5 hours or spend ages by the pool when we’re halfway across the world. Also, we try to avoid places "ruined" by mass tourism (like Holbox in Mexico, which we loved 10 years ago but not at all on our last visit, or Phi Phi in Thailand, completely destroyed by mass tourism).
Special note: we love traveling by train :)
Here’s what we’ve planned so far:
**Day 1** Arrival in Jakarta, then domestic flight to Yogyakarta. Settle in Yogyakarta.
**Day 2** Borobudur in the morning, then exploring nearby villages.
**Day 3** Prambanan in the morning, followed by culinary discovery / market / local vibe in Yogyakarta.
**Day 4** Train to Jombang, then driver/bus to the Bromo area. Overnight stay.
**Day 5** Sunrise at Bromo, exploring the volcano and sea of sand. Relax in the afternoon.
**Day 6** Travel to eastern Java, then train, ferry, and road to reach Sidemen in Bali.
**Day 7** Sidemen
**Day 8** Sidemen
**Day 9** Sidemen
**Day 10** Transfer to Gili Air (car to the port + fast boat?)
**Day 11** Gili Air
**Day 12** Gili Air
**Day 13** Transfer to Ubud
**Day 14** Ubud
**Day 15** Return to Bali airport, flight to Jakarta, then international flight.
Does this itinerary seem coherent for a family? Does it feel too packed or well-balanced? Would you make any changes to certain stops, durations, or transfers?
Thanks so much for your tips and experiences!
We’re planning a 4-month trip in spring 2027. We’re looking for a third destination that optimizes transport costs. Ideally, somewhere very different from the other two (Polynesia and Indonesia). Thanks
We’ve read it all about Bali: mass tourism, non-stop parties, ferry disasters, the kingdom of “Instagrammers,” pollution, “Bali belly”... But luckily, this island isn’t just about Kuta’s beaches and the Lempuyang Temple.
Sure, it’s not as exotic or off-the-beaten-path as other Indonesian islands (the Moluccas, Timor, Flores...), but we spent 3 weeks there and loved it!
Our (planned) itinerary in 7 stops: - Ubud (4 nights) - Sidemen (2 nights) - Gili Meno (3 nights) - Amed (2 nights) - Pemuteran (4 nights) - Munduk (2 nights) - Jatiluwih (2 nights)
We booked our accommodations in advance, and for the rest (drivers, activities...), we took it day by day with help from the homestays (making sure to contact them a few days ahead via WhatsApp).
In the end, it’s an “easy” destination, very affordable, and one that’s managed to keep a certain authenticity.
Sure, it’s not as exotic or off-the-beaten-path as other Indonesian islands (the Moluccas, Timor, Flores...), but we spent 3 weeks there and loved it!
Our (planned) itinerary in 7 stops: - Ubud (4 nights) - Sidemen (2 nights) - Gili Meno (3 nights) - Amed (2 nights) - Pemuteran (4 nights) - Munduk (2 nights) - Jatiluwih (2 nights)
We booked our accommodations in advance, and for the rest (drivers, activities...), we took it day by day with help from the homestays (making sure to contact them a few days ahead via WhatsApp).
In the end, it’s an “easy” destination, very affordable, and one that’s managed to keep a certain authenticity.
Hi Community,
I'm having trouble booking a domestic flight from Jakarta to Tual for September on Lion Air's website. The site keeps glitching. When I use a comparison site, the flight shows up just fine. I'd prefer to book directly on their site rather than through a comparator. Is anyone else running into this issue right now?
Thanks!!!!
I'm having trouble booking a domestic flight from Jakarta to Tual for September on Lion Air's website. The site keeps glitching. When I use a comparison site, the flight shows up just fine. I'd prefer to book directly on their site rather than through a comparator. Is anyone else running into this issue right now?
Thanks!!!!
Hello,
We’re heading to Bali as a family (5 people) for about twenty days, from mid-August to early September. Since our English is pretty limited, we’d like to hire a French-speaking driver or guide to accompany us on certain days and show us around the island, picking us up directly from our various hotels.
That said, I imagine this kind of service is probably more expensive than taking a local taxi, right?
Also, which Uber-like app should we use there? And for bookings, which website should we look for accommodations on?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
We’re heading to Bali as a family (5 people) for about twenty days, from mid-August to early September. Since our English is pretty limited, we’d like to hire a French-speaking driver or guide to accompany us on certain days and show us around the island, picking us up directly from our various hotels.
That said, I imagine this kind of service is probably more expensive than taking a local taxi, right?
Also, which Uber-like app should we use there? And for bookings, which website should we look for accommodations on?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
Hello everyone!
In early July, we’re heading to Indonesia for a solid three weeks as a family (my partner and I are in our fifties, and we have two daughters aged 17 and 20). We’ll be arriving and departing from Denpasar. Our itinerary is still entirely up in the air, and we’d like to explore islands other than Bali (we’ve already been there a few years ago).
I’d love to gather your tips and great recommendations to help us plan our route. For now, we’re thinking of visiting Lombok, Flores, and the Komodo archipelago. Here are some of our questions: - I visited Lombok myself back in 1999. I loved it, but I’ve been reading very mixed reviews in recent travel journals. Some are as enthusiastic as I was back then, while others are much more lukewarm (due to the overly strict and visible influence of the island’s governor on the population and because of massive hotel projects—I’m not sure if they’re on hold, underway, or completed). What’s the current situation? Is Lombok still a must-visit? And do you have any tips (hotels, places to visit, health, etc.)? - Still on Lombok, I did the Rinjani trek back then. I remember the hike wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t as tough as what I’ve read in quite a few recent travel journals... My partner and I are in decent shape, but that’s about it, and especially, my partner and our two daughters really don’t like the cold. What’s your experience with this trek? And do you have a trekking agency to recommend? (If we do it, I think we’d want to make sure we have good support, including quality gear, tents, jackets, etc.) - Flores and Komodo would be a completely new experience for all of us. Any tips and recommendations are welcome (sightseeing, accommodations, transport, etc.)! In particular, we’d like to explore the Komodo archipelago with a trusted agency that will take the time to show us the archipelago’s treasures in good conditions (safety and "decent" comfort). Do you know of any such agencies? - Are there other nearby islands you’d recommend? Any advice on places to visit and where to stay?
We’ll have three weeks on the ground... and we like to mix sightseeing with downtime where we just enjoy the moment. So we’re not looking for an overly packed itinerary, but still something rich (no point traveling so far just to lie on a sunbed all day ;-))
Thanks so much in advance for your advice!
Albin
In early July, we’re heading to Indonesia for a solid three weeks as a family (my partner and I are in our fifties, and we have two daughters aged 17 and 20). We’ll be arriving and departing from Denpasar. Our itinerary is still entirely up in the air, and we’d like to explore islands other than Bali (we’ve already been there a few years ago).
I’d love to gather your tips and great recommendations to help us plan our route. For now, we’re thinking of visiting Lombok, Flores, and the Komodo archipelago. Here are some of our questions: - I visited Lombok myself back in 1999. I loved it, but I’ve been reading very mixed reviews in recent travel journals. Some are as enthusiastic as I was back then, while others are much more lukewarm (due to the overly strict and visible influence of the island’s governor on the population and because of massive hotel projects—I’m not sure if they’re on hold, underway, or completed). What’s the current situation? Is Lombok still a must-visit? And do you have any tips (hotels, places to visit, health, etc.)? - Still on Lombok, I did the Rinjani trek back then. I remember the hike wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t as tough as what I’ve read in quite a few recent travel journals... My partner and I are in decent shape, but that’s about it, and especially, my partner and our two daughters really don’t like the cold. What’s your experience with this trek? And do you have a trekking agency to recommend? (If we do it, I think we’d want to make sure we have good support, including quality gear, tents, jackets, etc.) - Flores and Komodo would be a completely new experience for all of us. Any tips and recommendations are welcome (sightseeing, accommodations, transport, etc.)! In particular, we’d like to explore the Komodo archipelago with a trusted agency that will take the time to show us the archipelago’s treasures in good conditions (safety and "decent" comfort). Do you know of any such agencies? - Are there other nearby islands you’d recommend? Any advice on places to visit and where to stay?
We’ll have three weeks on the ground... and we like to mix sightseeing with downtime where we just enjoy the moment. So we’re not looking for an overly packed itinerary, but still something rich (no point traveling so far just to lie on a sunbed all day ;-))
Thanks so much in advance for your advice!
Albin
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Java and Bali this coming July/August with our daughters, aged 9 and 6.
We’d love to hear your thoughts on our itinerary. There are as many possible trips as there are travelers, and everyone will have their own preferences, but the goal is to get a general feel and see if there are any major incompatibilities or mistakes that could prevent us from making the most of this exceptional trip.
Here’s our plan:
Day 1: Arrival in Jakarta at 7 PM, overnight in Jakarta Day 2: Flight from Jakarta (8 AM) to Karimunjawa for rest and adjusting after the journey and time difference Day 3: Karimunjawa – beaches, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 4: Karimunjawa – beaches, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 5: Morning flight from Karimunjawa to Semarang, transfer to a guesthouse in Borobudur for rest and early night Day 6: Borobudur sunrise visit, transfer to Prambanan for a tour, then to a guesthouse in Yogyakarta Day 7: Train from Yogyakarta to Probolinggo, transfer to Cemoro Lawang for the night Day 8: Bromo sunrise hike, then trip to Kawah Ijen (Brondowoso or Banyuwangi depending on the tour, ideally arranged through our Yogyakarta guesthouse) for the night Day 9: Early morning hike up Kawah Ijen to avoid the heat (no blue flames with the kids), boat to Bali, transfer to Pejarakan for rest after three early mornings Day 10: Pejarakan/Menjangan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to an island, diving, turtle arch (details to be confirmed) Day 11: Pejarakan/Menjangan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to an island, diving, turtle arch (details to be confirmed), transfer to the Munduk area in the late afternoon Day 12: Munduk – lake and Ulun Danu Temple Day 13: Munduk/Jatiluwih, transfer to Amed in the late afternoon Day 14: Amed/Jemeluk – details to be confirmed, including sunrise at Mount Agung Day 15: Amed/Jemeluk – details to be confirmed, transfer to Keliki painting school in the Ubud area in the late afternoon Day 16: Keliki painting school activities/rice terraces/Tirta Empul (details to be confirmed) Day 17: Keliki painting school activities/rice terraces/Tirta Empul (details to be confirmed) Day 18: Ubud – Monkey Forest, overnight in Ubud Day 19: Ubud, transfer to Nusa Lembongan Day 20: Nusa Lembongan Day 21: Nusa Lembongan/Nusa Penida/Manta Point (details to be confirmed) Day 22: Nusa Lembongan/Nusa Penida/Manta Point (details to be confirmed) Day 23: Transfer from Lembongan to Gili Asahan via Gili Gede (1h20 + 30-minute boat ride) Day 24: Gili Asahan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 25: Gili Asahan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 26: Transfer from Gili Asahan to Serangan via Gili Gede (30 minutes + 2h15 boat ride), then from Serangan to Denpasar Airport, flight from Denpasar to Jakarta Day 27: Jakarta, then return flight at 7 PM
We chose Gili Asahan over the "other three Gili islands" based on recommendations from Lonely Planet and these sites: - www.onedayonetravel.com/...secrete-bali-lombok/ - petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/...i-asahan-ile-lombok/
Our goal is to end the trip in a beautiful, less touristy spot (only three accommodations on the island) known for its tranquility as of 2017, so it’s recent. With accommodation and boat transfers costing 950 € for three nights, we really don’t want to make a mistake!
Starting with Karimunjawa was a deliberate choice—it’s a quieter island, and we wanted a calm place to acclimate, rest after the long trip and work, before heading straight to Borobudur from Jakarta to avoid wasting time "in the city."
Given the events of the past two years, the distance, and our non-extendable vacation budget, we had to rule out Lombok, Flores, and Sulawesi, despite their many attractions.
We’re heading to Java and Bali this coming July/August with our daughters, aged 9 and 6.
We’d love to hear your thoughts on our itinerary. There are as many possible trips as there are travelers, and everyone will have their own preferences, but the goal is to get a general feel and see if there are any major incompatibilities or mistakes that could prevent us from making the most of this exceptional trip.
Here’s our plan:
Day 1: Arrival in Jakarta at 7 PM, overnight in Jakarta Day 2: Flight from Jakarta (8 AM) to Karimunjawa for rest and adjusting after the journey and time difference Day 3: Karimunjawa – beaches, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 4: Karimunjawa – beaches, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 5: Morning flight from Karimunjawa to Semarang, transfer to a guesthouse in Borobudur for rest and early night Day 6: Borobudur sunrise visit, transfer to Prambanan for a tour, then to a guesthouse in Yogyakarta Day 7: Train from Yogyakarta to Probolinggo, transfer to Cemoro Lawang for the night Day 8: Bromo sunrise hike, then trip to Kawah Ijen (Brondowoso or Banyuwangi depending on the tour, ideally arranged through our Yogyakarta guesthouse) for the night Day 9: Early morning hike up Kawah Ijen to avoid the heat (no blue flames with the kids), boat to Bali, transfer to Pejarakan for rest after three early mornings Day 10: Pejarakan/Menjangan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to an island, diving, turtle arch (details to be confirmed) Day 11: Pejarakan/Menjangan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to an island, diving, turtle arch (details to be confirmed), transfer to the Munduk area in the late afternoon Day 12: Munduk – lake and Ulun Danu Temple Day 13: Munduk/Jatiluwih, transfer to Amed in the late afternoon Day 14: Amed/Jemeluk – details to be confirmed, including sunrise at Mount Agung Day 15: Amed/Jemeluk – details to be confirmed, transfer to Keliki painting school in the Ubud area in the late afternoon Day 16: Keliki painting school activities/rice terraces/Tirta Empul (details to be confirmed) Day 17: Keliki painting school activities/rice terraces/Tirta Empul (details to be confirmed) Day 18: Ubud – Monkey Forest, overnight in Ubud Day 19: Ubud, transfer to Nusa Lembongan Day 20: Nusa Lembongan Day 21: Nusa Lembongan/Nusa Penida/Manta Point (details to be confirmed) Day 22: Nusa Lembongan/Nusa Penida/Manta Point (details to be confirmed) Day 23: Transfer from Lembongan to Gili Asahan via Gili Gede (1h20 + 30-minute boat ride) Day 24: Gili Asahan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 25: Gili Asahan – beach, snorkeling, boat trip to a deserted island Day 26: Transfer from Gili Asahan to Serangan via Gili Gede (30 minutes + 2h15 boat ride), then from Serangan to Denpasar Airport, flight from Denpasar to Jakarta Day 27: Jakarta, then return flight at 7 PM
We chose Gili Asahan over the "other three Gili islands" based on recommendations from Lonely Planet and these sites: - www.onedayonetravel.com/...secrete-bali-lombok/ - petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/...i-asahan-ile-lombok/
Our goal is to end the trip in a beautiful, less touristy spot (only three accommodations on the island) known for its tranquility as of 2017, so it’s recent. With accommodation and boat transfers costing 950 € for three nights, we really don’t want to make a mistake!
Starting with Karimunjawa was a deliberate choice—it’s a quieter island, and we wanted a calm place to acclimate, rest after the long trip and work, before heading straight to Borobudur from Jakarta to avoid wasting time "in the city."
Given the events of the past two years, the distance, and our non-extendable vacation budget, we had to rule out Lombok, Flores, and Sulawesi, despite their many attractions.
