Hi there, I just booked a round-trip flight from Brussels to Da Nang on eDreams, with a layover in Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific. Does anyone know the check-in procedure for these flights? 1) For flight CX294 BXL-HKG, I’ll need to check in on the Cathay Pacific website, 2) For the next flight CX5552 HKG-DAD, what should I do? I only have a 2h25 layover. Will I need to collect my luggage, go through immigration, and then recheck in at the airport counter, etc.? I’m pretty worried about this layover—I thought check-in could be done on the airline’s website and that my luggage would be transferred automatically during the layover, like with most other airlines... Thanks so much for any help from those who’ve been in this situation!

Autumn 2025 marks my 11th trip to Japan. I’ve neglected the south for too long, so like last year, it’s my main destination again.

We’ll revisit some familiar spots, but of course, we’ll also try plenty of new things. This trip feels a bit strange—no more of that initial magic, but on the other hand, we’ve really explored some off-the-beaten-path and private locations. The variety of regions, landscapes, and vehicles I’ve photographed is pretty remarkable. In search of vintage trains and threatened lines, I think my future trips will follow the same vibe.

After the 2017 and 2024 travel journals, it’s time to dive into Japan’s lesser-known side—all by public transport, of course. Day 1, arrival in Tokyo

The timing won’t be like other years since we arrive at Narita in the mid-afternoon after a layover in Hong Kong.

The only real mission for this afternoon is picking up tickets for the next day. And already, the first travel stress: I’ll have to rewrite the entire day because the Revaty Kinu 109 to Kinugawaonsen is fully booked, just like all the morning trains. So instead of a relaxed start exploring Ueno, I’m back to scrutinizing schedules. I manage to snag something last-minute after struggling for hours. Then, I wait for a message from Seiichi to meet up for dinner. Meeting friends on the first day and staying up late with jet lag—like I said, this trip isn’t like the others.

A great evening at a place I love.

We're a family of five: one dad, one mom, and three kids aged 10, 15, and 18.

Before diving into each stop in more detail, here are a few general thoughts:

We wanted to sample a bit of everything Japan has to offer in terms of landscapes, accommodation, and transport. We were after walks, temples, restaurants, shopping, and some downtime—but no "all-inclusive experiences" or museums for this first visit.

Three medium-sized (60x42x25) canvas suitcases, plus a duffel bag and a few small backpacks. 23 kg in the hold on the way out, 60 kg on the way back. 36 kg of shopping, without even trying. I think this is the maximum suitcase size if you don’t want to stress on the Shinkansen: they fit easily in the overhead racks.

Round-trip with Cathay Pacific, layover in Hong Kong: no need to collect luggage in Hong Kong—we checked it in at departure and picked it up in Tokyo, and the same on the way back (checked in Osaka, picked up at our final destination). This let us explore Hong Kong without worrying about our bags. Food and entertainment were pretty good—meals included a little Häagen-Dazs on each flight, and the entertainment had way more Asian cinema than you’d find on a Western airline, which was a nice way to see how much weight Western culture carries in Asia.

Initial itinerary: Tokyo (3 nights) Hakone (2 nights) Takayama (1 night) Kanazawa (2 nights) Kyoto (4 nights) Osaka (1 night) Ishigaki (3 nights)

The original plan was to fly directly from Ishigaki to Hong Kong, but due to Typhoon Dolphin, we had to cancel the Ishigaki leg. Cathay didn’t bat an eye about swapping the Ishigaki-HK flight for an Osaka-HK one, even though it was twice as long. We were a bit too attached to the idea of ending the trip with some beach time and replaced Ishigaki with Shirahama. It was a mistake—we should’ve visited Hiroshima or spent a little more time in Tokyo instead.

Hi everyone,

It’s been a while since I last posted... so I’m jumping back in with this amazing trip we took in October 2025:

We’re doing this trip with fellow traveler friends who, like us, have already been to Japan. That means we can aim for a different side of Japan, away from the usual tourist circuits. That’s why I opted to rent a car instead of relying on trains. I was drawn to the castles and the samurai-novel atmosphere.

When I plotted the sites I wanted to visit on Google Maps, it suggested a return route via the island of Shikoku, so it turned into a nice loop around the Seto Inland Sea between Kyushu, Chugoku, and Shikoku.

The trip will be just the four of us, doing it all independently. I rented a car from Budget in Fukuoka. Before heading over, I watched several videos to get an idea of what to expect—road signs, parking, and general driving behavior. In Japan, they drive on the left, but that’s not an issue since in Southern Africa we also drive on the “wrong side of the road,” so I’m used to it. For accommodations, after checking with two agencies, I decided to handle it myself. It saved a significant amount of money, and I was able to choose exactly what I wanted. I know I can be picky about the type of lodging I want, especially in Japan where you can really treat yourself. We stayed in some stunning ryokans, once in little cabins run by monks next to a temple, and more.

Here’s the route: Fukuoka - Hagi - Miyajima - Matsue - Okayama - Kurashiki - Matsuyama - Yufuin - Kurokawa - Kumamoto - Fukuoka

Here we gooo...

Hi, I’m planning a Paris–Hong Kong round trip with a return from Chongqing to Paris, spanning 28 days in November 2026.

The flight is with Air China, with a few hours’ layover in Beijing each time (I plan to stay inside the airport).

I’ve reread the conditions several times, but since I’m never entirely sure, I’d love your input.

Are we all clear that visa exemptions apply?

For arrival in Hong Kong, crossing the Hong Kong–China land border (via Shenzhen), and the return flight from Chongqing?

Thanks for your insights.

Hi there, We’re setting off from Hong Kong on a cruise on January 2, 2026. We’re looking for other passengers to share ideas for taxi excursions or other activities. Thanks! Isabelle and Max 04700 Oraison

Hi there! I’m planning to spend a few days in Hong Kong in April/May to visit my son, who’ll be doing an exchange program there. We’d also like to take the opportunity to spend a few days in Japan. Do you have any tips on airlines in the region? I’ve seen deals on Skyscanner for HK Express, which seems like the local Ryanair. But I have no idea what it’s like. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, we need your advice to avoid being denied boarding at Paris CDG.

We’re planning a one-month trip to China, which matches the 30-day visa on arrival, but with a return ticket from Vietnam. For example, we’d arrive in Chengdu, then travel via Lao Cai to Vietnam, and fly back to Paris CDG from Hanoi 45 days later. Do you think this could be an issue at boarding?

Second option: arrive in Chengdu (*30-day visa duration*), then fly from Kunming to Hanoi 45 days later (Vietnam visa duration), and return to Paris CDG from Hanoi. Thanks for your input!

Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe). In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko. I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip. Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest. The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days. As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.

Transportation: An ICOCA card is essential. I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.

Accommodations: Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.

Meals: For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés. For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen. Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima. Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima. A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto. Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi). Tempura and gyoza. Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal. One omakase meal (9 different dishes). In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef. Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.

The Itinerary: Day 1: Departure from Brussels Day 2: Arrival in Osaka Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade Day 8: To Miyajima Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto Day 10: Southern Kyoto Day 11: Northern Kyoto Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago) Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima) Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko) Day 17: To Tokyo Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong Day 20: Arrival in Brussels

Fellow travelers,

Don’t they say "never two without three"? It seems so. Here I am again on the forum to share—and let’s be honest, indulge a bit of selfish pleasure—by recounting the story of this third installment in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Where? It’s all in the title. On the island of Kyushu in southern Japan, more precisely in the northwest between Fukuoka and Nagasaki. I hope to take you along with me for 19 nights and 18 full days this autumn of 2024. On the itinerary: gastronomy, crafts, festivals, waterfalls, encounters, and leisurely strolls in all simplicity.

A last-minute flight booked just 7 days before departure, and the route evolved regularly based on whims and accommodation availability, eventually settling on this:

- 5 nights in Fukuoka: Fukuoka city, Ukiha, Itoshima, Dazaifu, Yanagawa - 4 nights in Hasami, Nagasaki Prefecture: Okawachiyama, Arita, Takeo, Kashima, Yobuko, Karatsu, Kabeshima - 6 nights in Nagasaki: Ureshino, Higashi-Sonogi, Nagasaki city, Unzen, Sotome - 4 nights in Fukuoka: Karatsu, Fukuoka city

Most of the trip was done by car for practical reasons—easier access to certain places and freedom of movement—but also for the sheer joy of it. Despite slow traffic at times, driving in rural Japan is a delight.

If the program interests you, see you soon for the start of the journey.

Vast, diverse, and multifaceted China! During a recent journey across part of this fascinating country, I enthusiastically discovered so many aspects of it. But such variety seems hard to condense into a single story. So, for this travel journal, I’ve focused on two main facets of China. First, a modern and urban China—the sprawling city of Shanghai—and then, in a second part, a China that’s the complete opposite: a rural and more traditional side explored around Yangshuo, where nature is absolutely stunning. Ready for a tour of China, city first, then countryside? Travel stories, descriptions, and impressions are on the program, with plenty of room for photos. Enjoy the journey and happy reading!

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Urban China: Shanghai

As soon as you explore the city, it’s clear: the Chinese wanted to turn Shanghai—once a small fishing village—into a showcase of a modern, powerful, and forward-looking China. The megacity is immense, with around 24 million people bustling through its avenues or stuck in monstrous traffic jams at the foot of some of the world’s tallest skyscrapers. Towers so high they almost touch the sky—well, almost. But this gigantism is just one side of this southern metropolis in the Middle Kingdom.

Away from the towers and business districts, you discover another side of Shanghai—more traditional and, some would say, more human. This is where my travel story begins: on a quiet morning among smiling, relaxed locals. We’re in one of the city’s parks, specifically Fuxing Park.



As everyone knows, the Chinese love practicing Tai Chi Chuan, in groups or solo, so it’s no surprise to see so many here, moving slowly and precisely through their sequences. Here’s a first group, their movements and postures perfectly coordinated.



In another alley, a lone practitioner is deep in concentration, executing his movements with focus. I watch him for a few moments, discreetly and from a distance, so as not to disturb him. To his right, a woman in bright red pants keeps walking, almost as if she’s marching in place. A strange ballet: a series of steps forward, then backward, and so on...

Nearby, this elegant athlete (or artist) performs Tai Chi with a sword—almost like a choreography, her movements resembling a true sword dance.



Further on, the atmosphere is more relaxed and melodic. People are playing music and dancing joyfully, like this woman with her colorful, original hairstyle, all smiles with maracas in hand. You almost want to clap along—her energy is so contagious!





The mood is lighthearted among this group of retirees. Their choir alternates between patriotic hymns and lighter songs. Someone must have told them some French people were watching, because suddenly they start singing an old French tune: « Vive le vent, vive le vent d’hiver... » And the cheerful choir leader invites us to sing along—all together! The result was a fun cacophony: us in French, them in Chinese. But it was so charming!

These Chinese locals definitely passed on their good mood. It’s a joy to see all these retirees—you can imagine them leaving their small apartments to get some fresh air and meet up in the park for these morning activities. But let’s not kid ourselves: while they seem so happy and content with those big smiles, most of them probably didn’t have an easy life. Food shortages, draconian regulations, propaganda, the one-child policy—just to name a few! No, what many endured in their daily lives didn’t always give them reason to smile so brightly. But now, they’re making the most of it, and as I wrote earlier, it’s wonderful to see them like this.

Encouraged by these shared moments, I decide to keep going. Without hesitation, I join a Tai Chi session. I tried my best to follow the movements of my neighbors practicing this traditional exercise, but I’ll admit—it wasn’t easy!



This artist, especially attentive, rewards us with a calligraphed phrase about France. A lover of Chinese calligraphy, he writes these sinograms in ancient characters directly on the ground. Is it writing or drawing? It’s hard to say—the result is so aesthetic. An ephemeral phrase, written in water that slowly fades as it dries, before disappearing entirely.



As we walk, we approach one of the park’s exits—so beautifully flowered. These flowerbeds and their blooms hint at the name of this charming place: Parc des Roses—and it’s even written in French!



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We’re now in the former French Concession of Shanghai, which explains the French inscriptions. The era of foreign concessions in Shanghai is an old story, dating back to the 1840s—a time when China opened its market to international trade. Several nations, including European ones, established trading posts in the city. There were British, American, Japanese, Russian, Italian, German, and French communities. This part of Shanghai was under French administration for a time, starting in 1846.



Some buildings in the area still bear witness to that time, like these ones, with bikes and scooters passing by. The architecture popular at the time blended European influences with the style of Shanghai’s elegant residences: stone arches above entrances, brick walls, and pleasant inner courtyards. Large homes often divided into several apartments today.



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Traditional Chinese architecture shines in all its splendor at this tea house. With pagoda-style roofs—corners turned up toward the sky—refined colors and decorations, and a small corner tower on the right, this Huxinting Pavilion dates back to 1784. It was built in the middle of a pond, offering beautiful reflections. A truly charming spot where you can savor the subtle flavors of Oriental teas in the interior rooms.



Just steps from this picturesque spot, don’t miss the Yuyuan Pavilions and Garden. The whole complex is stunning and gives a glimpse of imperial-era homes and parks from the Ming Dynasty.



Pass through the entrance gate to enter this opulent property, well protected by a high surrounding wall. On one of them, a dragon sculpture sprawled at full length—about 7 meters—is impressive. The symbol represents power but also happiness.





Created in 1577 by the Pan family, wealthy dignitaries of the time, the visit takes you from pavilions with poetic names like the Pavilion of Three Ears to the Pavilion of Spring’s Announcement. Charming!



The interiors are decorated with woodwork from walls to ceilings, where beautiful Asian lanterns hang. But the real charm is outside. These shaded gardens, rustling with bamboo, are adorned with several ponds surrounded by impressive rock formations. A world that recreates (in miniature) the mountain and water landscapes of rural China.





This historic Yuyuan Garden, in the heart of the city, took about 18 years to design and build (pavilions and gardens). Its current appearance is the result of a faithful renovation—much needed, because in 1942, during the so-called Opium War, British officers made it one of their residences. It was partly destroyed by bombings, and later, French troops ransacked it after an attack on their concession.



The site is still under construction—maintenance and renovation—with scaffolding as proof. The garden’s enclosure was set to close for work the day after our visit (for a few weeks, until the end of October 2019). That’s probably why crowds of visitors were rushing in, making the atmosphere a bit less peaceful than this beautiful architectural ensemble might suggest. For the photos, I had to be a bit clever, avoiding the crowds to give an impression of tranquility—this historic place deserves it.

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To be continued in the next post...

Hello forum,

Did any of you feel the same things we did in China?

We spent a good twenty days there in August. First, we traveled solo around Chengdu, then joined an organized tour for 12 days (Beijing, Pingyao, Xi'an, Guilin, Xingping, Yangshuo, Shanghai, Wuzhen) and extended our stay by 4 extra days to visit Zhangjiajie.

The landscapes were stunning, and we have unforgettable memories... but we were really disappointed by the following points:

- The food: way too spicy. Lacking in flavor, not much taste. I’m speaking "in general" because we did enjoy some good steamed dumplings, smoked pork, and other dumplings... But compared to Thailand, Cambodia, or India, Chinese cuisine didn’t impress us at all.

- The behavior of the Chinese: disrespectful, rushed, agitated. You constantly have to fight—people push, crowd, and overwhelm you... At the entrance to the Terracotta Army (and other sites), it’s a human tidal wave... and I mean that literally. We were carried by the crowd without even touching the ground. It was like a situation where you have one bowl of rice and 20,000 starving people diving for it...

You’re at a ticket counter, and they cut in front of you. You’re in line for boarding, suitcase ready to go on the conveyor belt, and someone shows up out of nowhere to put THEIR suitcase down... even though they have a flight ticket with THEIR seat number and won’t be leaving before you!!!! You’re getting on the bus, and someone shoves past you just so they don’t end up behind you.

It’s like these people only think about themselves. I didn’t see a single person let someone else go first or even ask—it’s as if politeness and respect are completely foreign to them.

It’s honestly exhausting and draining...

- Communication: In every other country we’ve visited, whether in Asia or Europe, we always manage—with English, a few words of Italian, French, or Spanish. In China, I’ll be blunt: if you don’t speak Chinese, you’re screwed. And yet, a pair of kids around ten or twelve years old asked us in English where we were from :)

- Understanding: Here’s the rule. Even if the person you’re talking to speaks a little English and says they understand you... make sure they *really* do, because 9 times out of 10, they don’t. Out of pride or just cluelessness, they’ll give you a big smile and nod, but in reality, they didn’t get what you were saying.

Several times with our group, in the evening at a restaurant, if we hadn’t been helped by someone at another table who spoke a little English, we’d still be there. The classic example: the waiter brings one menu (for 10 people at the table), and we’re all trying to explain that we need 4 or more menus. Five minutes later, he’s still staring at us with that same blank smile...

In 3* or 4* hotels, you go to the front desk for a hot water or AC issue. Three or four staff members just stand there beaming at you. You try to explain with photos or a translator, but in the end, you leave with the problem unresolved.

They don’t speak—they shout... on buses, in hotels...

We were also surprised to find that self-service laundromats were almost nonexistent. We got scammed once at a hotel with an astronomical bill!

As for flights, we flew Air China on the way there and Austrian Airlines on the way back—no comparison. Air China had zero service and food that was "baby food" quality. Austrian Airlines had multiple services, a decent meal, and smiling flight attendants.

I don’t know if any of you had the same experience in this country, but I’m definitely not eager to go back. Whereas if someone offered me India, Thailand, or Vietnam tomorrow, I’d be there in a heartbeat!!!

Hi everyone,

I’m planning a family trip in a year. Our goal: traveling to China (and maybe Hong Kong) by train. I’m all set with the route up to eastern Turkey. However, I’m just starting my research for the rest of the journey—namely the Caucasus (no trains as far as I know, so buses and/or ferries), then Central Asia and China. So, I’d love to hear any info or tips (general and forward-looking at this stage) about the train route through Central Asia and China to reach the east coast. I’m particularly interested in details on: - How far in advance to book / any potential difficulties with reservations - Whether there are PASS systems (or equivalent) between countries and/or if some tickets allow stopovers, meaning you can hop on and off as you please - Day trains vs. night trains (the latter option lets you explore cities between two legs of the journey) - A rough idea of ticket costs ...

A huge thank you to anyone who can share some info or experiences. It’s also a great opportunity to chat about adventure after (way too) many years away from this forum.

Good evening, cruise friends! I’m planning my Japan cruise with Costa.

Is it more worthwhile to book excursions before departure? With MSC, yes, because you save 15%, but what about with Costa?

For those who’ve already done this cruise, do you have any tips or recommendations, please? We’re staying 1.5 days before and 3 days after in Hong Kong. Thanks in advance! Chantal Ports of call: Hong Kong - Keelung (Taiwan) - Japan (Naha - Kagoshima - Tokyo - Kobe - Nagasaki) - Busan (South Korea) - Hong Kong

We just spent three weeks in Yunnan. I’ve started writing up a travel journal about the trip.

Hi everyone,

The idea of visiting Japan goes back a year now. I remember because I was looking for cheap flights to Europe from Paris. Surprisingly, the round-trip to Japan with Air China was just as affordable—if not cheaper—than many European destinations.

So, the tickets were booked. Three seats (including one for a 12-year-old), ten days over Easter 2018, AirBnB accommodation. Of course, in ten days, you visit without *really* visiting—you only scratch the surface. Just the classics: Kyoto, temples, moonlit rivers; the Shinkansen; and Tokyo, gardens, wandering, high-tech, and... maids.

I have to admit, we don’t know much about the country, and the thought of how we’d manage is a constant source of worry. What if this trip reveals my inability to open up to other cultures?

We board the first Air China flight with that question on our minds.

hi

we’ve got a 16-hour layover at Shanghai Airport in March 2026—is it easy to leave and come back? Do we still need a visa? Or do we have to return to clear customs? Do we need to buy another ticket? Thanks for your help

Hi there!

I’m heading to Hanoi next week and we’ve got a 16-hour layover in Shanghai. Is it worth leaving the airport? We’re Belgian, so no visa required.

Thanks! !

Hi, I was thinking of going to Japan in October, but the prices are currently insane—direct flights from Paris to Tokyo are around 1600-1800 €! Is it always like this, or is it just because I’m planning too far ahead? Thanks

Hi, I’m planning a 20-day family trip to Japan in June 2026. I’d love to hear your thoughts on arriving in Tokyo and departing from Osaka (or vice versa)—not using the same airport for arrival and departure. I’m convinced it’s much more comfortable and avoids retracing our steps by train across Japan, but I get the feeling flight costs skyrocket.

Thanks for your input! :)

Best regards,

Joelle

A scam from A to Z.

A scam from A to Z.

I just got off a 15-day cruise around Japan on the Norwegian Spirit. Never again!

Drink prices are exorbitant ($12 before tax for a beer, a 500ml bottle of water for $6.50 before tax!!!)

That’s $13 per liter of water before tax!!!!!

No entertainment at all.

Shows were really mediocre.

No dedicated space for kids.

Food was repetitive, way too salty, and just not good.

Port stops were too short, and some days at sea were way too long!

Time to disembark: over an hour, like in Korea (Icheon). On a 5-hour stop, that’s wasted time!!

Excursion prices ranged from $199 to $350 per person (for less than 6 hours on land!!!)

And to top it all off: after a case of food poisoning on board and a visit to the ship’s doctor (in the middle of the night due to feeling unwell and vomiting), we were charged $4,800 for medical exams!!

Yes, you read that right: $4,800!!!!!!

Just to clarify, the person was in consultation for about 2.5 hours... These fees were directly charged to our account since they force you to register a credit card at the start of the cruise!!

On top of that: service charges on board: $20 per person per day! That’s $1,680 before tax, of course!! We contested them, but they were still charged!!

Other unknown fees charged by mistake!! I had to open a dispute with my bank.

So go with MSC or Costa instead...

but avoid Norwegian—an unscrupulous company that takes advantage of vulnerable people.

Date of experience: August 10, 2025

Hi everyone, I’m back from my 10-day cruise to Japan and South Korea and wanted to share my experience. Before leaving, I searched the forums but found very few firsthand accounts of this kind of trip.

Just so you know, a cruise isn’t some slow, easy trip—every port stop is an adventure!

We flew from Marseille with Lufthansa via Frankfurt, with a short 1.5-hour layover that was just enough, though we still had to sprint to make our connection. We’d booked seats with extra legroom, which was great—we were next to premium economy, so we had a good spot. The airline hadn’t sold all the premium seats and kept making announcements to attract takers, but no discounts!

After about 12 hours, we arrived at Tokyo Haneda feeling pretty wiped since we hadn’t slept. The time difference is 7 hours, so we landed in late morning in Japan. We took the free rail shuttle to central Tokyo. The entry process went smoothly thanks to the Japan web app. For the subway, we’d registered our Suica card, but we hadn’t anticipated how tricky transfers could be when stations don’t always have elevators—bit of a hassle, but still cheap! Navigating the subway is super easy, though. We’d bought a SIM card on Amazon beforehand, so everything was smooth.

We’d booked a room at the Grand Hazelmon Hotel, which is near the Imperial Palace. It’s a quiet business district in the evenings and well-connected by subway.

I’d opted for a half-room, so I was worried about space, but it was fine—no smaller than a London or Paris hotel room! Breakfast was included and really good.

We even had dinner there one night—dishes were around 9 € at a 4- or 5-star hotel, so we didn’t hold back.

In the afternoon, we visited the Imperial Palace. You can’t go inside, but it’s a green oasis—surprisingly peaceful despite Tokyo’s 36 million people—and very secure.

I’ll share more of my adventures later!

I'd like to fly with Thai Airways to Japan. Could anyone—or several people—share their thoughts on this airline?

Hello, We’re two active and fit retired couples. We’re planning a trip for the second half of March 2026. We prefer traveling by train but wouldn’t mind renting a car if necessary. We don’t want to change accommodations every night (we’d rather see less but enjoy it more). If possible, we’d love to stay in guesthouses or similar—impersonal hotels aren’t really our thing. Questions: What do you think are the best airlines? We don’t have to fly back from Tokyo. We’re also big fans of getting off the beaten path—any original ideas are welcome! Many thanks in advance, Gorgui

hi everyone

I’m planning a trip to Japan from May 11 to 26 with Air China.

I’ll be taking Ouigo from Lyon for both the outbound and return trips to get to Roissy CDG.

For the outbound TGV from Lyon, I’ll arrive at Roissy with plenty of time—at least 6 or 7 hours before my 8:30 PM flight (Paris to Beijing, then Beijing to Tokyo). For the return on May 26, I was wondering what time you’d recommend booking my train to Lyon, given that I’ll land at CDG at 7:30 AM (flight from Tokyo). I was thinking of booking a train leaving at 11:00 AM from the SNCF station at CDG to Lyon Saint-Exupéry—does that seem too tight based on your experience?

This is my first time traveling this far with a layover in Beijing, and I’m not familiar with Roissy CDG Airport at all.

Thanks for your advice!

Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner. We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.

I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...

Here’s the classic route we took:

We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima. The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night). For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person). We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express). Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives. After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport. It turned out to be super useful! After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening. Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory). Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).

Hi there, These cities aren’t in the guidebooks much, but they’re absolutely worth a detour—just 180 km from Osaka and perfect for a stop on your way back from the south or heading down from Osaka. I’ve been here for five days, and the autumn colors are simply stunning: bright reds, vibrant yellows, deep maroons, and lush greens against a crystal-blue sky. Fall here is magical. Plus, the canal in central Okayama (Nishigawa) is all lit up. Hardly any Western tourists stop here, but there are plenty of Japanese visitors.

Hi everyone,

Need some fresh advice, please.

I’m planning a trip to Japan for late February/early March 2025.

A friend who usually travels there often used to fly from Marseille (yes, really) with round-trip tickets for around 500-odd euros to Tokyo—something that’s impossible to find now. Her last trip was just two months ago.

Any tips, please?

I already know flights magically get more expensive on weekends, but I’m looking for tips to find fares under 900 € per person...

Thanks in advance!

"By the time a man realizes his father was probably right, he usually has a son who thinks he’s wrong." 😛 — Charles Wadsworth

😉

It’s an understatement to say that Japan is a world apart. All around me, people exclaim: "How lucky you are to be able to go there! I’ve always dreamed of visiting, of finding myself in that culture blending tradition and technology!" Yes, they’re right. Until the moment their dreams become reality and things appear as they truly are, without the filter of fantasized preconceptions. Because in the collective unconscious, Japan indeed seems like a civilization—if not neutral—at least stripped of any social maturation. As if it had emerged all at once from its canonical ages, offering only the best of its traditions, and as if those traditions were undoubtedly the foundation of its extraordinary discipline. Yet, as always, the truth is far more complex. Modern Japan is likely shaped by its millennia-old traditions. But that Japan is also the result of its own uncertainties and contradictions. I’ve always been wary. I’ve never understood why the cleaning women on the platform bow when the train arrives. At some point, too much discipline, too much deference—it makes you smile, it raises questions.

Finally, thanks to F., a dream is coming true! Not the dream of going to Japan—a country I’ve visited more than any other, except for Réunion and the UK—but the dream of completing the fastest round-the-world trip of my career. Indeed, due to the restrictions imposed by the Russians*, the plane flies over the Caucasus and China on the way there; on the return, it gracefully heads toward the Arctic after skirting the Aleutian Islands, Alaska, and Greenland. So, in nearly 26 hours of flight, I complete my 6th round-the-world trip. A round-the-world trip with just one stopover. Or two, if you count our impromptu detour to Okinawa.

(* In response to Western sanctions, Russia closed its airspace to Western airlines on February 28, 2022, except for Air Serbia, Turkish Airlines, Pegasus, and Belavia. This decision adds 2 to 3 hours to flight times and, incidentally, increases operating costs.)

The empire of noise. The empire that dazzles. In Japan, the auditory and visual space is constantly fed. No respite. You have to be strong. Navigating public transport feels like playing the most advanced video game: moving between language barriers and a different organization, the hero tries to ignore the numerous visual and auditory distractions. Mostly auditory, though. Because in Japan, there’s a culture of noise that has undoubtedly inspired our national railways. Everything must be announced. So, here and there, all along the route, we find agents whose sole role is to endlessly repeat safety messages through megaphones more or less suited to the situation. The result is a constant murmur, a kind of tinnitus, a subtle but incessant buzz that fades only at bedtime and returns with a vengeance at first light, when we descend back into the supposedly sterile depths of Osaka’s subway. "To go right, please turn right, kudasaï. When descending the stairs, please mind the steps, kudasaï. To go straight, please take the left corridor, kudasaï." That *kudasaï* ("please" in Japanese), I assure you, has permanently lodged itself in my auditory cells.

Screens are no exception; the brain is constantly stimulated. But paradoxically, passengers massively retreat into their own worlds via their screens. Literally glued to their phones, earbuds firmly in place, people escape into the virtual aisles of a furniture store, a game, a movie... In the train cars, raised voices are rare. The field is clear for announcements and other jingles. Each stop is announced by a little tune unique to each station. Simply incredible.

If we usually judge a country by the welcome its inhabitants offer, in Japan, we’re left wanting. Indeed, the Lost in Translation* spirit doesn’t just apply to verbal exchanges—it applies to everything, especially non-verbal communication. In Japan, me, the slightly North African Corsican, I’m at a loss. I speak loudly, I gesture, in front of a hotel concierge just as lost. Each for our own reasons. Yes, he speaks some English, but we can’t seem to connect. It’s a losing battle trying to find a bit of compassion from a local who’s far from familiar with Western concerns. I try to buy tickets for the World Expo? I run into a systematization as rigid as it is abrupt, which the concierge can’t seem to navigate. While we might still have a shred of common sense, here in Japan, everything is digitized. Soon, no one will be surprised that a QR code becomes essential just to go to the bathroom.

(* Film by Sofia Coppola, released in 2003, which explores isolation, unease, Japanese culture, and language through the experiences of two protagonists.)

In the end, we get that ticket for the Expo. After providing personal information on yet another account created for the occasion, we buy electronic tickets—a QR code, then—to regulate the comings and goings, the souls and aspirations of all these wandering beings scattered across the globe. And it’s probably for the best... Because we’ll be tens of thousands of visitors—100,000 to 150,000 per day—walking the aisles of this enormous improvised amusement park, a kind of delirious superstructure surrounded by the Grand Ring, the largest wooden construction in the world. Inside the park, the pavilions, flagship vessels of their respective countries, compete in ingenuity, proportionate to their GDP, to attract visitors. But you have to wait up to two hours to visit the most popular ones! Fortunately, about a hundred countries can be explored without waiting in shared, more spacious areas. What will I remember from this adventure? The beauty of that wooden structure, despite any environmental or financial considerations—200M € for barely renewable elements; a certain poetry, even magic, in the expression of this event—conversing with Juliette Petit, the splendid representative of Vanuatu, had something indescribable; a close-up experience of Japanese discipline when it came time to return to the subway after that epic evening—thousands upon thousands of people converging at the same time toward a single place without any interruption in the flow.

But my real passion is the countryside. So, I’ll especially remember that brief escape, on the very first day, to the Mino-o waterfall, where the journey itself was already enchanting. Quickly leaving the underground lines, our train speeds through the city’s endless expanse and drops us at the foot of a hill, the abrupt edge of the urban sprawl. The slope was too steep to build anything? We leave behind an impressive hotel, a capitalist eyesore defying the laws of elevation to tackle the climb toward the waterfall. A bucolic walk where the stroller can choose between a paved path or more epic trails. Here and there, stalls, temples, everywhere, a certain serenity. The city’s pulse gives way to a magnificent spectacle magnified by giant sequoias. From the depths of a ravine, we try to glimpse the sky beyond the foliage. Everything is oversized. Here, you can breathe.

***

In reality, Japan has never undertaken any real work of memory. Aside from a few feeble gestures to appease Washington in its choice of Asian partners, one wonders if the Japanese have ever truly grasped the horror they were forced to participate in. While our Judeo-Christian society has more or less assimilated the notions of forgiveness and self-questioning, where does Japanese society stand, juggling a millennia-old Zen philosophy and the unabashed Machiavellianism of an emperor utterly possessed? Is it just me, or does there float in the atmosphere a kind of unease, a malaise, an awkward relationship with reality? For me, bowing to a train as it enters the station is just the result of a poorly directed moral dilemma...

Ah, how distant is the time of sakoku, that closure of the country—both concrete and ideological—that was in vogue for two centuries. Because if no one could enter, no one could leave either! A boon for neighboring countries. But from 1854, following the skirmishes of Commodore Matthew Perry, who demanded Japan’s participation in trade, the country suddenly became aware of the disparities separating it from the West. Bring Japan up to the level of other nations? Industrialization, competition, search for raw materials... Hirohito (1901–1989) emerges on the scene, a bit expansionist and willing to stop at nothing to achieve his goals. Above all, he knew how to use, in his own way, the incredible capacity for self-sacrifice of his people...

We protest, we condemn, we all rally behind an acceptable discourse when it comes to discussing the use of the atomic bomb. Yet, we forget one essential thing: Hiroshima wasn’t enough to make Hirohito yield. While we’re bombarded with anti-fascist elements, as if the sole purpose of school curricula were to prevent us from voting for the National Rally, we completely overlook those events of rare cruelty that took place on the other side of the globe at a time contemporary with Nazi atrocities. Why? Because it was farther away, on the other side of the world? Because we must both condemn the use of nuclear weapons and Nazism? What a dangerous game. Killing civilians is beyond comprehension, everyone agrees on that. But hasn’t Japan ever been guilty of such atrocities? Our empathy is legitimate; it won’t, however, remove from my mind the idea that there was no other solution. Nagasaki is the most telling proof of that.

At least in France, in school textbooks, Hitler will have completely overshadowed the existence of people crueler and more abject than him. Certainly, Adolf was a deeply disturbed man whom events propelled to power. But I’m justified in believing that his approach was probably more humane than that of Joseph Stalin at the height of his art*. And if Hirohito followed the same line as Hitler, in the sense that he represented the superior race, he would apply with conviction what was Stalin’s credo: contempt for his own people when sending them to slaughter, and an even fiercer contempt for the human race when it didn’t have the good fortune to be Japanese. Just look at how China was invaded and by what means millions of Chinese were annihilated, burned, deported, buried alive! Operation Scorched Earth or Three Alls Policy for kill all, burn all, loot all? No comment. Even today, the Japanese are convinced they waged a patriotic war, when clearly, that war served only vague ideological (and certainly economic) interests.

(* "In many ways, Hitler’s National Socialism was far more humane than Communism: it wasn’t unthinkable to speak to the SS or the Gestapo, and dissuading them from sending you to a prison camp wasn’t utopian. To some extent (compared to the Communists), you could still expect a semblance of justice. All those who lived under Hitler and under Communism will tell you: as the front lines shifted, they always managed to end up in Germany, where, though it was a strange place ruled by a madman, life went on. Under Communism, there was no life; totalitarianism was absolute. Probably, Hitler’s conservatism prevented him from fully imitating Bolshevism." Seraphim Rose in The Revolutions of the 19th and 20th Centuries (circa 1970))

In Naha, we visit two strategic sites: the Imperial Navy headquarters and Maeda Escarpment, in Urasoe, better known as Hacksaw Ridge. I love this confrontation with history. In the hand-dug tunnels of the headquarters, we meet Japanese people seeking information. They’re not responsible for this tragedy. Neither are we. I would have liked to tell them that, to hug them, to move on. To finally believe in those peace messages displayed here and there. Yes, it’s curious to read those calls for peace* when no real work of memory** has been undertaken. Two civilizations, two perspectives, a profound misunderstanding. When I analyze the waste of that war—and particularly the waste of those Pacific battles—like Peleliu in autumn 1944 and Okinawa in spring 1945—I can’t bring myself to share in the pathological patriotism that reigns within these walls. There, the room where the last message of Admiral Minoru Ōta was transmitted in Morse, praising the merits of the archipelago’s people. A tangled mix that, yes, is charged with positive emotions but, no, won’t remove from my mind the idea that this people was completely conditioned, completely disconnected from reality. Allying with the Axis powers? Invading the South Pacific? And finding that noble! Everyone sees things through their own lens.

(* Peace Declaration by Denny Tamaki, Governor of Okinawa, June 2020. ** "Recognizing the atrocities committed by one’s country requires a mix of democratic culture and self-confidence that is more the exception than the rule." Dominique Moïsi in Les Échos, April 30, 2015)

Okinawa. 200,000 dead. Stemming from bushido, the way of the warrior, this conditioning reached its peak with the kamikaze philosophy in particular and suicide in general. So, schematically, here’s how things went: as the island was encircled—Peleliu, Iwo Jima, Okinawa—and all hope was lost, the order was given to kill ten American soldiers before taking one’s own life. The deceit of this system, where surrender is synonymous with dishonor, involves creating tunnels and secret pockets where Japanese soldiers hide and from which they emerge. Long before the atomic bomb, the knell of their war had sounded. Hiroshima and Nagasaki are just the result of human pride, of which Hirohito’s reign is the finest example. Why was this henchman of Satan left in place until his death? I don’t understand. While the humiliation inflicted on Germany repeatedly was abject, especially for its people, the absence of any real and pressing accountability for Hirohito in this large-scale carnage he instigated leaves room for the wildest interpretations. As if to underscore my point, Emperor Naruhito visited Okinawa the same day we did, paying his respects to the inhabitants who fell in battle. I looked at the faces in the monorail serving the south of the island. There were elderly people who undoubtedly lost their parents eighty years ago. To what extent can they blame this tragedy on the delusional visions of their leaders?

On Maeda Escarpment, I salute the courage of Desmond Doss, that conscientious objector who fought to serve his country while refusing to ever carry a weapon. There, at the top of a steep ridge, you can see to the north the Allies’ advance, while to the south, the slope is gentler down to Shuri, in front of the headquarters. The underground is a Swiss cheese filled with enemies. Desmond works as a medic. He manages to save 75 wounded from certain death by evacuating them at night from the battlefield using makeshift ropes. Back in Osaka, far from the somewhat dilapidated tropical islands, I rediscover the splendor and grandeur of Japan’s second-largest city. To tell the truth, and this applies to Okinawa too, the density is so insane on this archipelago that you sometimes wonder if it’s not just one giant city spread across the vast territory. Because between Tokyo and Osaka, while there are some mountains and forests, it’s the city that dominates; during rush hour, a rapid train connects the two cities every five minutes. We get lost in rather quiet alleys parallel to the main streets, only to find ourselves in the covered and lively galleries of Dōtonbori. We’re looking for a place to eat—above all, we’re trying to navigate the unlimited options stretching endlessly along the sidewalks. It’s absolutely mind-blowing. And while I introduce F. to a part of history that our Western societies have quickly forgotten, he initiates me into Japanese gastronomy despite my well-known aversion to Asian food. But nothing beats having a master in the field! We feast on okonomiyaki, Japanese pancakes expertly prepared and served on a teppan embedded in our table.

Night falls on Japan, and I still haven’t found the answer. Like in Singapore, one can praise the calm and serenity of human relationships, the delicacy that may just be hypocrisy, the politeness, the discipline. But above all, we notice that in the absence of freedom, in the absence of madness, poetry struggles to take root, boredom looms, as does real madness. Bushido still exists, honor is there and must be preserved. But the youth drowns in electronics and in willingly sterile cults (otaku), unable to discern what’s essential, failing to believe in their dreams. You have to succeed? Young people commit suicide because of school bullying, the slightly older ones because of work-related difficulties or marital problems. Nothing exceptional, we might say—average*—but you’d expect better from a country so well-organized, a country that makes so many Westerners dream. Yes, night falls on Japan. Empire of noise, empire of the senses, a very strange land where you find clean toilets in subway corridors but where the very meaning of life seems stifled by the mirages of technology. Above all, a civilization deprived of a penance that would prove salutary. We’re caught between two waters. Those of a shallow modernity without depth or anchor; those of a past that was majestic but irreparably tainted by the demonic madness of an overly adored emperor.

How can one fully thrive when guilt has no outlet?

(* France and Japan share a common statistic of 17 suicides per 100,000 inhabitants, which, depending on density, means 30 per day in France and 70 in Japan...)

From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity

Hi everyone,

I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.

The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:

-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)



-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)



-->7 days in Tokyo



The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.

I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.

We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!

Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:

finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???

What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.

The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!

PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...