Hello! 🙂

January 2026 Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).

In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.

Northern Laos, Nov 25

Thursday, Oct 23. Left home at 8:25 AM, took the bus from St Cyp to Perpignan, then a BlaBlaBus to Barcelona airport. Last night, a huge storm crossed France, and the bus was an hour late. We finally left at 11 AM. At the Spanish border, we were checked—several Africans were traveling on the bus, and their document verification took quite a while. In the end, everything was in order, and we set off again a good half-hour later. We finally arrived at Barcelona airport after 2 PM, but no stress since my flight was scheduled for 4:30 PM with Saudia. At check-in, the hostess told me there’d be a 1-hour delay due to bad weather in France and Belgium. In the end, the flight didn’t just have a 1-hour delay but a 5-hour one because of a technical issue. The next flight wouldn’t wait for us. When we arrived in Jeddah, they gave us another ticket for the following day—the flight to Bangkok was scheduled for 11:55 AM. The airline assigned us a room, which was good news since I was exhausted. Friday morning, the flight was still scheduled for 11:55 AM, but the gate wasn’t displayed. It was announced with a 1-hour delay, but that stretched to 4 hours. They handed out drinks and a snack—again, the delay was due to technical problems. In Bangkok, I had a connecting flight to Chiang Rai, where I’d also booked a room—I lost everything. We finally arrived in Bangkok on Saturday at 4 AM. I had to buy another ticket for a 7 AM flight. The formalities were quick, and my flight went smoothly. A taxi took me to Bus Terminal 1, where I caught a bus leaving at 10 AM, and we arrived at the Thailand-Laos border. I shared a taxi with other travelers, which took us to Houay Xai. The guesthouse I’d booked was right across from the stop—that was great. I exchanged some money and bought a SIM card at the guesthouse. Despite the fatigue, I needed to stretch my legs, so I walked down the street to the temple.









and continued to Fort Carnot, built by the French.



The views of the Mekong are beautiful for a first glimpse of the country.





yum-yum, bon appétit!

At 6:30 PM, I went to dinner at a restaurant across from the guesthouse—a chicken curry with vegetables.



I didn’t linger and went back to bed. I slept well, even if I woke up often.

Here’s our third travel journal with photos, following Vietnam in 2012 and Southern Thailand + Angkor in 2013. Once again, we’d like to thank everyone who brightens up this site with their experiences and tips. Every year, some parts of our itinerary are made easier or richer thanks to your contributions. We hope our own story will do the same for other travelers.

**10 JULY 2014**

We booked our flight tickets back in September to get a better deal than last year. We were happy with the 1291 € price for two people from Paris—until mid-January, when several airlines started offering promotions we hadn’t expected for our travel dates. Next year, we’ll take the gamble and wait longer, hoping to fly with Qatar Airways, for example. Fate had us flying with Indian Airlines. The Paris-to-Delhi leg was on a brand-new Boeing Dreamliner—obviously fresh off the assembly line. After a quick four-hour layover to stretch our legs, we boarded an Airbus A321 that looked prehistoric for the Delhi-to-Bangkok flight. Honestly, if the outside of the plane had matched the inside, we’d never have made it. Broken screens, shattered armrests—you name it. As for the meal trays, we would’ve devoured them only after a week stranded on a desert island. The cabin crew didn’t win us over either. And we really didn’t appreciate the behavior, attitudes, or stares from most of the people we encountered during our layovers in Delhi. This year’s experience has definitely put us off flying with this airline again—or even setting foot in India ever again. That’s just our personal take, but it’s clear.

Stepping onto Thai soil was an immense relief. After exchanging just a few euros, we took a taxi from the designated spot and had a completely different experience from last year: the driver was normal and efficient. So efficient, in fact, that we arrived at our destination much earlier than expected. A well-deserved tip, and it seemed to make his day.

We dropped our bags at reception and rushed to Harmonique restaurant, just 300 meters away, just in time for the last dinner service. We’d talked about this place at length last year. We’d been looking forward to it for a year, but we only managed to nibble on some spring rolls because what we really wanted was a good night’s sleep. While quite a few customers were still around, four staff members walked through the dining area with two large trash bins from the day’s service. They were clearly pleased with themselves and having a good laugh. It made us chuckle too—seeing something like that done so naturally, when back home, some people would’ve been outraged to witness it in a similar establishment!

A quick word about the Swan Hotel: we’re grateful to those who recommended it on this site and on their blogs. It’s quietly located in the Silom district, just steps from the river. We have fond memories of the giant, ultra-comfortable bed and the well-maintained pool. It was very peaceful, though we were there during a quieter season. At 30 € with breakfast when we booked (and around 20 € without breakfast now), we can’t imagine finding a better-suited hotel in Bangkok.

**11 JULY**

We couldn’t find an open bank and had to withdraw cash from an ATM. Now we know: July 11 is a public holiday in Thailand. It suddenly occurred to us that next year, we’ll keep some baht from our return trip to save time at the airport and avoid little hiccups like this.

We decided not to head straight to Laos and instead spent the day visiting Muang Boran, also known as Ancient City, about 30 km southeast of Bangkok.

There are plenty of ways to get there. We ruled out taxis—too expensive. Besides, we enjoy using local transport; it’s more fun. We took a taxi to Democracy Monument, then found the bus stop about 100 meters from the roundabout, on one of the avenues leading to it. Someone always points you in the right direction. We hopped on bus 511 for a long ride, with two major slowdowns at red lights. The same happened on the way back, as our route crossed busier roads. We told the driver our destination, and he let us know when to get off. No problem—someone already flagged us down 20 meters later to put us in a *songthaew* (a shared taxi-van) that took us straight to the site. The bus and *songthaew* fares were minimal. Already, the people around us were smiling, and we were smiling back.

The entrance fee has gone up: 700 baht. That includes bike rental, a tour minibus, and a boat ride on the river. We still hadn’t fully recovered from the flight, and with the heavy, humid heat, we opted for the electric cart instead—no regrets. Still, 150 baht per hour.

We had an amazing day, beyond our expectations. The park features full-scale or scaled-down replicas of Thailand’s main landmarks, along with countless statues and landscaped gardens. There are also reconstructions of a typical Thai village, a northern Thai village, a farm with animals, and a floating village.

Almost everything we saw was well-made and aesthetically pleasing. The whole place is absolutely worth the trip. We spent six solid hours there without dawdling.

Here’s a very incomplete sample of what we admired:

























Visitors will find restrooms, restaurants, and a few shops scattered throughout the site. On the way back, just cross the road using the pedestrian bridge about 250 meters to the left of the exit. Flag down a *songthaew* as it passes.

The whole day flew by between the visit and the commute. We still had time to return to Harmonique to try their famous crab curry. Once you’ve finished it, you think—life isn’t so bad after all.

Here’s a little clip we filmed in November–December 2019 (just before Covid) of a trip from Hanoi to Cat Ba Bay and then on to Xishuangbanna via Luang Namtha.

https://youtu.be/suZYN3LvgkQ

Hi, During our stay in Luang Prabang, we're considering a 2- to 3-day trek, but we're torn between two options:

- Organized by an agency? Do you know any that offer what I'd call "authentic" experiences at "reasonable" prices?

- Going solo? Can you easily find public transport to get 80 to 150 km away from Luang Prabang without spending all day on the road, and hike to a few villages? (Car rental seems quite expensive, and the driving conditions are unpredictable.)

Do you have any advice on which direction to prioritize from Luang Prabang? North, East, West, or South?

Thanks for your help! Christian

Hello, I’ve been to Thailand three times a long time ago, and I’d love to visit neighboring countries too: Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia (while returning to Thailand 😛). The catch is that I’d like to go at the beginning of the year, but I’ve heard that’s peak tourist season for these countries. Ideally, I’d prefer to avoid peak season to save money (I’m not exactly rolling in it) and to be able to travel without reservations—without being forced to take a room in the local "palace" that still has availability because of its exorbitant prices.

From my distant memories of Thailand, I usually paid around the equivalent of 20 € per night (with a hearty breakfast) for a hotel room with a mini-bar.

What are the average prices for this type of accommodation in Thailand and its neighbors during "peak" season these days? Do prices fluctuate a lot depending on the season, or is tourist demand not that different from one season to another, keeping prices relatively stable? Are the chances of finding a "budget" room without a reservation still high, no matter the season, in this part of the world? 😇

Hi there, I’m heading to Vietnam for 10 days, from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, and then spending 5 days in Cambodia (Siem Reap). Which SIM card or operator would you recommend? Thanks for your help!

Hi, I’m torn between a few airlines for late March departing from Paris: Vietnam Airlines, Singapore Airlines, and Qatar Airways. Which one is reliable with a comfortable flight? Air France’s schedule doesn’t work for me. Thanks for your feedback!

hi there since the forum is back up, let’s try to gather some updated info. first off, arrival formalities are changing—starting January 1st, you’ll need to fill out an electronic form before arrival. This replaces the paperwork you used to fill out on the plane or at the airport (for air arrivals). Here’s the link: https://www.arrival.gov.kh/. for visas, the same options remain: e-visa, visa on arrival, or visa at the embassy. The standard price is $30 on arrival, but at land borders, be prepared for a small "extra" for "cigarettes or coffee." don’t forget your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your return. regarding airlines, prices are pretty high for carriers like Singapore, Qatar, Emirates, Vietnam Airlines, and Thai. EVA Air is a great Taiwanese airline with slightly lower fares, but ongoing pressure from mainland China and quasi-blockades could cause delays or issues—something to watch. there are cheaper Chinese airlines, but friends from China advise being cautious with connections. Worth double-checking. transport is evolving too—there’s now a highway from Phnom Penh to Kampot. Soraya, a well-known bus company, has disappeared. More highway projects are in the works. Buildings are popping up fast, just mentioning this for those who haven’t been to Cambodia in a while.

Hi, Does anyone have the contact details for a French-speaking guide?

Hello, I’m planning to leave on April 27th for Bangkok via AF (Air France), direct flight. We’re quite familiar with this destination (we’ve been there about a dozen times). My question is: what’s the current situation and atmosphere like there? Is it easy to get around—taxis, buses, flights, etc.? I know there’s always a gap between what the articles and French TV news say and the reality on the ground. Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone, My wife Fanny and I, along with our three kids (ages 10, 12, and 14), are planning a two-week trip to Asia during the February break. This would be our first big family trip, and we’re looking to mix discovery, a change of scenery, some relaxation, and cultural immersion. We want to avoid overly organized tours or over-touristed destinations. Over 20 years ago, Fanny and I used to travel as a couple with backpacks, especially in India and Mongolia, but things have surely changed a lot since then. Now, we’re torn between: • Thailand: for its diversity (beaches, temples, nature) and accessibility for a first family trip. • Laos-Cambodia combo: for a potentially more authentic immersion, but we’re wondering if it’s well-suited for kids. - Sri Lanka: it seems amazing and family-friendly? Is the political situation stable enough? We have a few questions:

Which destination would you recommend for this kind of family setup? What itineraries might work for two weeks without feeling too rushed?

Logistics-wise: can we travel with a round-trip flight ticket, book a few basic hotels, and improvise the rest once we’re there? Or do we need to plan everything in advance (transport, accommodations, activities) for this time of year?

Thanks in advance for your valuable tips! Mathieu

Hello everyone,

At the start of November, a bit of rest before winter will be perfect to kick off this travel journal. There aren’t many recent journals about this part of the world, so I’ll take the plunge—my way of celebrating the (unexpected) return of this forum, which has been such a big part of my life for over 15 years.

So, back to Asia at the end of 2023. After Myanmar in 2015 and Vietnam in 2018, we’ve chosen Laos this time. And when talking with friends (you know how it is—everyone asks, "So, where are you going this year?"), a couple of friends asked to join us ("You see, my wife dreams of a trip to Asia, and I dream of traveling like you, independently"). We’ve spent a week with them (and other friends) in Portugal, so we know they’re easygoing and flexible. They’ll only be with us after Christmas (due to lots of grandkids), so deal—we’re bringing them along! A new experience for us.

A new experience that’ll start with tweaking the itinerary. Originally, I planned to stay a month in Laos, but what could be more magical for my friend’s wife than discovering Asia by way of Angkor! Plus, our two daughters asked for some beach time at the end of the trip! So, it’ll be Laos and Cambodia—neither of which we’ve visited before, so no complaints there.

The route will be pretty classic, though a bit scattered to fit our dates and wishes. For us, we’ll arrive in Luang Prabang (LP) to take some time to acclimate, then a few days in the northern Laos mountains, Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi. Back to LP for a direct flight to Pakse. Yes, I know—so many amazing places we’ll miss along the way, but as you know, choosing means letting go... From Pakse, I’m leaving a few days open (no bookings), but I’m eyeing Champassak and the 4,000 Islands. That’s where Mariel and Naty (our friends!) will join us on December 30th. I’ve tentatively added the Bolaven Plateau loop to the plan (still no bookings). Their Laos adventure will be short—by January 3rd, we’ll cross the border into Cambodia, heading straight to Siem Reap for 5 days. Then, I’ll fulfill my promise with a magical detour to Koh Rong Sanloem via a night bus (a must-do in Asia!). On to Phnom Penh for 2 days—where our trip ends, while Mariel and Naty will stop in Bangkok for 3 days before flying home.

So, fasten your seatbelts, flight attendants at the doors, and sorry for the long intro—here we go on this Asian adventure!

Hi everyone, I’m starting to plan my next trip to Southeast Asia this winter (2.5 months, leaving in early December), and here’s a rough outline of my route—I’d love to share it with you and hear your thoughts and tips.

- I’ll start in Bangkok and already have three spots I’ve marked: Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, and Uthai Thani (I haven’t been to any of these places yet). - Next, I’d like to cross the country from west to east to reach the Laos border. I’d love suggestions for any interesting stops along this route—I don’t know this part of Thailand at all... - Then I’ll head into Laos, probably at Savannakhet (you can usually get a visa at the border). - > I’m tempted to spend a week in Hoi An, Vietnam, since I loved that city and the area when I visited two years ago. No visa needed for Vietnam now, so it could be a nice little detour. On the map, it doesn’t look too far, but I know you’ve got to be careful with these things, and I’m not sure if it’s a good idea. Any opinions on this? - Back to Laos (maybe via Dakta), and I’ll head south along the Mekong, probably doing the Bolaven Plateau loop that I missed last time. Then Paksé, the 4,000 Islands... I’ve been before, but I’d happily go back. - Crossing into Cambodia, I’ll follow the Mekong down to Phnom Penh (I know this area and love how untouristy it is). From there, I’ll probably spend a few days in Kep (quieter than Kampot). Still undecided, though. - Then back to Thailand (BKK), likely by plane from Phnom Penh since the borders between the two countries are currently closed (plus, let’s be honest, Cambodian roads... ;-). We’ll see how things look when the time comes. - After that, I’d like to explore southern Thailand, taking it slow with short hops. I’ve got my eye on Khao Sok National Park, and I’ve heard good things about Krabi... Again, I don’t know this region well, so any info or tips would be great.

So, I think this should be doable in 2.5 months, especially since I prefer short hops of 300 km max to avoid getting too tired, and I like staying 2-3 days in each place to explore. Plus, I’ll take a week off to relax if I find a spot I love—maybe by the sea for some real downtime.

Thanks for your feedback and for sharing your favorite spots! Pascal

This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam. The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.

Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.

Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.

A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.

12/07/2013

The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people. So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom. That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.

We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.

Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver. Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!

We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.

After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.



At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.

We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.



That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.

Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.

Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.

We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.

Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!

Hi everyone,

I’m heading back to Cambodia in a few weeks and had a couple of questions:

1/ the new airport Does anyone have info on the average tuk-tuk fare? From the old one, we’d usually pay between $7 and $10. Are we looking at the same range? It seems a bit farther, so maybe a little pricier. If you’ve got a rough idea of the time (always better to budget extra), I’m guessing around an hour?

2/ access to Preah Vihear temple I haven’t been back in a few years, but I was thinking of revisiting it this year. Given the border troubles, is access still allowed at the moment?

Looking forward to hearing from you,

Mathieu

Hi everyone! It feels really strange to be back on Voyage Forum after such a long time.

A quick question for the pricing experts out here 😉

I’ve been running some simulations for a Singapore Airlines flight, and I found THE perfect one for me! But here’s the thing: the simulation for 1 passenger is 978 €, and for 2 passengers, it jumps to 2,208 €. Where do those extra 252 € come from?

Yeah, I know I could book two separate reservations...

Thanks for your insights...