This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
The hotel serves breakfast from 8 AM to 10 AM—pretty late, but not an issue for those who needed to catch up on sleep. A glance at the sky fills us with joy: we wanted good weather for today, and we got it.
We head straight for the river, passing a park along the way with a small pond, flowers, lawns, a few old houses, and an area with equipment for locals to exercise in the morning. As we’re strolling, shouts ring out. Half a dozen women of a certain age were having a picnic when one of them scared off a large monitor lizard that had been lured by the smell and was looking to crash the party. It’s surreal to find yourself three meters away from a creature straight out of *Jurassic Park*.
We’d decided to rediscover the *khlongs* and had contacted Julien back in January. His email responses weren’t exactly warm, but it seemed like serious business. We’d agreed on the date and price in February, with a confirmation in May. Out of courtesy, we sent a final email two days before our departure as a last confirmation—only to be surprised when the price of 1,800 baht for six people suddenly became 1,600 baht for two. We made the mistake of replying that it was okay, though personally, we wouldn’t have dreamed of doubling the price just before the meet-up after agreeing on it months earlier. Without our last confirmation, we would’ve been faced with a *fait accompli* the day of, since he hadn’t even bothered to warn us. After that, he sent one last email... inviting us *not* to come. So, here’s a young, presumptuous, and touchy guy who’s nice to those who bend to his will but downright unpleasant otherwise. Some forum members had already had the bad surprise of him not showing up on the day of the meet-up. All this leaves us with a pretty nasty impression of the guy and his unreliable, ever-changing standards.
So, we decided—if you can call it that—to give more to the Thais than we would’ve paid him.
Our path led us to Pier 8, a little north of Wat Arun. We’d already described this in detail in a previous discussion on the topic. It turned out to be easy to find someone. Before the walkway where the shuttle docks, there are small businesses selling all kinds of river and *khlong* trips. The vendor had signs, large photos, and colorful maps to help us choose.
We opted for a two-hour trip exclusively through the *khlongs*, priced at 2,800 baht but negotiated down to 2,000 baht—just the two of us in the longtail boat. You could probably get it cheaper by going directly to a boat owner, but our schedule was packed, and we wanted something quick and hassle-free. We’d insisted on a tour with no stops, and aside from a quick pause to feed the fish, the deal was respected. We’d see enough flowers and markets over the month.
Clearly, visiting Bangkok without a *khlong* tour would be a real shame. A temple here, banana trees there, the people we pass, the glimpses of daily life, the monk crossing a small bridge above us... smoking a cigarette! The highlight was the monitor lizard swimming in front of us, climbing onto the bank with a big white rat in its jaws.
Our discreet and friendly guide ended up going well over the two hours, and we’ll admit our backsides were grateful by the end.
On the way out, we crossed a market full of collectibles and amulets stretching for hundreds of meters along the sidewalks. Private sellers buying and trading coins, miniatures, trinkets, religious objects—probably every Sunday.
We then take the ferry to cross the river and visit Wat Arun. The sight of this grand, unique monument standing against the blue sky is one of the most majestic views Bangkok has to offer. It’s a pleasant place to explore. Worth mentioning is the inner courtyard of the temple, where you can admire a number of very expressive stone figures.
After a rich meal the night before, small pineapples on wooden skewers will do just fine. Oh, pineapples in Asia—what a treat!
We head back to Khao San Road to buy our boat tickets to Koh Phangan–Ko Tao in advance, this time with Songserm. We’ll test all three companies so we can give a solid opinion.
It’s hot, we’re thirsty, so we make a quick stop at the entrance of the neighborhood at a friendly young guy’s fruit shake stand. You know the type—listening to real rock music, and when an Englishwoman asks for "two bananas, please," he hands her two actual bananas.
We wisely order kiwi and kiwi-pineapple shakes. One word: *slurp*!
Off we go in a taxi to check out Lumphini Park. It’s pretty big, kind of like Central Park with skyscrapers all around. The most interesting part is seeing locals exercising or dancing, sometimes in huge groups, with that unmistakably Asian style that always makes us smile. A young monitor lizard slithers out of a drain just a few steps away—our third of the day.
The walk did its job, so we have the taxi drop us off near Mango Tree House restaurant. We barely snag a table without a reservation. This place is a different league—slightly upscale, and we feel a bit out of place. It’s modern, well-decorated, with a wealthier clientele and prices a notch higher. The food quality is undeniable, though—it’s definitely a spot that doesn’t disappoint. There’s a slight sense of it being less authentic, but that’s just our impression.
On the way back, the taxi driver can’t find our hotel. Luckily, we’ve gotten into the habit of carrying the hotel’s business cards—it regularly saves us from one or two evening mishaps during a trip.
At the start of the night, my partner steps out to smoke a cigarette on the large balcony surrounding the floor, leaving the bedroom door slightly ajar to avoid making noise. You wouldn’t believe it, but during those five minutes, an Asian tourist—clearly tipsy—comes barreling around the corner, tries to open the already-open door with his key, and says, "Sir, sir, this is room 206. Your key is for 306—you’re on the floor above. No, no, it’s fine, good night, sir." Another second and we would’ve had a third wheel in our room...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
The next few days are dedicated to a getaway in Cambodia. The taxi takes us to the airport relatively quickly. Just a quick note on taxis: they’re a real blessing for tourists in Bangkok. While the three-wheeled tuk-tuks are colorful, folkloric, and fun, we gave them a miss this time because of the tedious haggling and their lack of safety. We also remembered getting exhaust fumes right in our faces every time.
Taxis, on the other hand, mean comfort, cool air conditioning, safety, a bit more interaction with the driver, and—most importantly—prices that fit every budget. Even after getting used to them, we’re still amazed every time.
Now that we’re seasoned pros, here’s how to do it: when the taxi stops, don’t get in right away. Let the driver roll down the window, say *sawadee krap*, and tell them your destination. They might say no and drive off—okay, they have their reasons. Or they might quote a price (which will almost always be nearly double the real fare). Either way, you say: "Meter, ok?" If they say no, say goodbye. If they say yes, get in and make sure they turn on the meter. Most of the time, it works on the first or second try, but sometimes it takes until the fifth or sixth. Every time we’ve done it differently, we’ve regretted it. Of course, if you’re coming from some remote spot, you might not always have a choice. One last thing: if the driver looks like an idiot, just walk away—because it usually turns out they really are one. The same goes for drivers who struggle to understand you from the start; chances are they won’t find your destination and will drive you around forever. The worst are the ones who swear they know where they’re going when they don’t—just to be polite or save face.
Sometimes, it saves you to have the hotel’s card with the name in Thai or at least the phone number of the restaurant you’re heading to.
A propeller-driven ATR plane took us from Bangkok to Siem Reap. The first time, it’s not exactly reassuring, but the hour-long flight goes by quickly.
Visa formalities are quick—just a photo and a few dollars we’d exchanged in Bangkok—and it only takes a few minutes. Our guesthouse’s tuk-tuk (the motorbike kind) was waiting for us in the parking lot, and the ride was free. We dropped off our things, and that afternoon, we got a ride to the place where we bought our three-day pass.
As we’d been told, it gave us the right to start visiting that same day. Along the way, we saw our first monkeys wandering at the edge of the forest.
We took our time exploring, almost alone in and around the Bayon, with great lighting on this temple of many faces—literally.
The contrast between these temples barely cleared from the jungle and bustling Bangkok is striking.
That evening, we wandered into a restaurant packed with Cambodian families and tried Asian barbecue for the first time. For four dollars, you can help yourself to all the meat, fish, seafood, vegetables, and fruit you want, cooking it to your liking. We enjoyed plenty of things—though not all of them were identifiable.
The storm had the good sense to break after dark. This trip is really well-timed...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
It's such a joy to read your posts. The style is smooth, easy to read, and free of spelling mistakes... a real treat! And the photos are gorgeous. I can't wait for the next posts to pick up some great tips for our 6th trip to Thailand next February.
Enjoy Angkor to the fullest (we spent almost a week there two years ago). Make sure to visit the River of a Thousand Lingas—this time of year, it must be perfect (though the climb is still a workout!). Back in April, the river was nearly dry. Don’t miss Tonlé Sap and its impressive stilt villages (likely flooded at the moment).
Soak it all in, and keep taking us along for the ride! !
Thanks for the encouragement, but it’s quicker to read than to write...
Given the positive feedback on this forum, we chose the Lovely Guesthouse for four nights at $14 with air conditioning.
We were delighted. The place is peaceful (well, in Asia, there are dogs and roosters almost everywhere in the neighborhood...) and we won’t forget the constant smiles and the staff’s availability.
The rooms are very clean, the bedding comfortable. Nancy and Marion run the place in a way that’s both professional and super laid-back. We explained what we were looking for in terms of visits, and we can confidently say you can trust them to organize everything with your eyes closed. You get a tuk-tuk and its driver at a reasonable price, tours designed to minimize crowds, and—when available—interesting discussions and exchanges. We usually like to switch things up, but if we return to Cambodia, this is where we’ll go back.
Even with a three-day pass (40 $), the program is incredibly packed. On average, 6 to 10 sites per day. It wouldn’t be reasonable—or maybe even fun—to detail them all. We liked some of the most famous ones less, while we adored others that aren’t as well-known. Our eyes and minds never felt overwhelmed, but our feet and legs sure did... We felt both admiration and pity for those doing it by bike.
So many beautiful things that choosing photos to illustrate this day was heartbreaking.
This first full day took place under a blazing sun.
We started with the orange-hued temple of Banteay Srei, located 25 km from the main sites. Lots of beautiful bas-reliefs in good condition.
One of the highlights of our trip was the journey to this site. For half the route, on both sides of the road, there was an uninterrupted succession of homes, a little rural and forested world, a small slice of the past. It was so captivating that we could’ve stopped every 50 meters for several kilometers to look and take photos. The authenticity we love so much when traveling. Along the way, at that early hour, a very pleasant smell complemented the scene perfectly: a mix of forest scents, exotic wood burning for household use, and incense.
We didn’t note all the names, but that day we saw Banteay Samre, Prasat Prei, Prasat Leak Neang, Pre Rup, and a good part of the Angkor Thom complex. At this time of year, the smaller number of tourists makes it even more enjoyable.
Given how rich the day was and the heat, need I say we weren’t exactly full of energy by evening...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
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Thanks for the updates from your first day of visits in Angkor. Don’t forget to take a rest day now and then—the steps of the Khmer temples are brutal!
If you head to the night market in the evening, there’s a bar at the very back (kind of a thatched hut) that makes delicious cocktails. At the end of the day or rather early evening, it’s just what you need!
Enjoy your time! Do tell us all about (and share more great photos of) the River of a Thousand Lingas—I hope! With plenty of water in the river, it must be even more stunning. Don’t forget to bring water for the climb, and I’m sure, just like us, when you come back down, you’ll rush for a nice cold beer at a little eatery near the parking lot!
I love the photo with the man lying on the temple steps. So beautiful!
I can't wait to read the rest! We're planning our trip for July (we're starting early, but we live on Réunion Island—flight tickets are crazy expensive...). I really enjoyed reading your posts. (Good spelling *is* a plus, after all!) Keep it up! :)
Like the day before, we woke up at 5 a.m. to set off in the cool morning air and admire the first sites before the buses arrived. It was clear from the start that our tuk-tuk driver was just as taciturn as the day before, and in the end, he’d be just about the only unfriendly Cambodian we’d meet. We asked for a different driver for the next day. His habit of regularly admiring himself in every mirror or reflective surface he passed and taking the opportunity to fix his hair was pretty noticeable. Well, when you’re that stiff with people, tourism probably isn’t the right job for you...
We quickly forgot about him as we entered Angkor Wat through the back entrance, buzzing with excitement. The damage caused by the climate—especially over the last century since the vegetation protecting the temples was cleared—is heartbreaking. Still, it was a childhood dream come true to wander through this complex. As we left through the main entrance, we ran into more and more people and realized it must be a lot less pleasant during peak season.
The rest of the morning was dedicated to the trio of Ta Prom Kei, Phnom Bakeng, and Baksei Chamkrong.
Luckily, the weather was mostly overcast during the day. A few degrees cooler—perfect. There was enough light, but it was pretty humid.
For lunch, unless you want to make a 30-kilometer round trip, you’ve got to eat on-site. While the food is great pretty much everywhere else, the same can’t be said for major tourist sites. The quality was lower, but the prices were doubled. There’s no doubt some local fortunes were built on the cheap thanks to this opportunity. We set aside our foodie expectations for these few days.
Of course, the little monkeys from the forest roam the area and put on some free shows. Their "cops and robbers" skits with the vendors were hilarious.
We started the afternoon with a visit to the Baphuon, which we nicknamed "the battleship." This massive stone structure, while not exactly beautiful, is incredibly impressive. The patient dismantling and reassembly work done by the teams of architects and local workers is a huge success.
We ended the day with a bunch of other discoveries, from the magnificent gates of Angkor Thom to Prasat Prei, the mini lake Neak Pean to Preah Khan, and passing by Thommanon and Banteay Prei, among others.
At the various sites, we were inevitably approached by vendors, most of them very young children. We bought a few trinkets, and some of the little girls had a heartbreaking way of begging in French: "Madaaaaame, s’il vous plaît, madaaaame? Tout à l’heure?" At times, all the hustle and bustle made taking photos even trickier—already a challenge with other tourists and the ever-changing light. Still, it’s clear these people live here, and at no point were they pushy or unpleasant. Their faces lighting up when we smiled back was a joy to see. It’s frustrating to realize how little so many people have compared to us.
After these two days, we weren’t as energetic. But the packed itinerary had still blown us away and left us with a deep sense of satisfaction.
In the evening, we switched to a more traditional but very locally flavored restaurant. We were excited about the next day’s plans: starting with the ruined, jungle-covered temple of Beng Mealea, which is several dozen kilometers away. We chose this option because we’d heard the landscapes along the way were stunning. In the afternoon, Ta Prohm and the Roluos group were on the agenda.
Dinner was great, but we think we made a big mistake this time. Probably the coconut milkshakes. We’d find out in the night...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
A thousand thanks for this simply magnificent account. Reading you is such a pleasure and brings back so many memories. I’m a huge fan of the Angkor temples, which I’ve visited many times, but your story and the way you describe your visits, your emotions as you wander through all these temples, makes me want to go back and immerse myself in that unique atmosphere again.
With that in mind, I’m heading to Paris in two weeks to visit the Musée Guimet and its new exhibition dedicated to Angkor: *The Birth of a Myth*.
About your misadventure with Mr. Chartree Chidchen, the taxi driver from the airport, regarding that famous ticket—there’s a phone number you can call if you have any issues with a driver.
Thanks again.
Oh! Your photos are stunning—what camera do you use for shots that are so incredibly sharp?
A thousand thanks! Actually, there are two of us—Paris and Match, "the weight of words, the shock of photos!"
It's a Canon 7D, and all the photos are taken manually without flash.
If anyone wants details about this camera body, we’d be happy to answer.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Thanks again for this beautiful travel journal—it feels like I’m right there with you! It brings back some amazing memories too... How lucky you are to both love photography. I love it too (and I’m far from a pro), but it annoys my husband...😕 oh well, I’m the only one who does it (and I’ll keep doing it, so there!). I used to have a Canon 400D, but after a spectacular fall in Koh Pha Ngan last February, I just got a Canon 650D—still in Canon’s mid-range line.
Since you’re visiting the Roluos group, are you planning to make a "detour" to Tonlé Sap? If you check out the huge stilt village of Kampong Khleang, I’d love to see photos of it *with* water. When we went, it was April and the lake was dry, revealing its towering stilts and forcing villagers to create a kind of temporary sand path just to get around (in a tuk-tuk, it was a bit of an obstacle course!).
Keep up the great work—and keep sharing your stories with us!
We caught something a bit dodgy. Not very Buddhist, either. One of us started feeling sick in the middle of the night, while the other is less affected and will only suffer minor inconveniences. We’re lucky because there was no fever—just this day and the next will be pretty rough.
It’s true that Cambodia isn’t great in terms of sanitation. We learned at the guesthouse that it’s not uncommon for tourists to get sick. From now on, we’ll know to be more careful here than in Thailand.
As a result, this day is cut short. We have to give up the trip to Beng Mealea and won’t see Ta Prohm either. We’ve seen so much already that the disappointment is relative—maybe this will be our excuse to come back one day.
The morning is a bit grim, but luckily the worst effects fade fairly quickly.
After much hesitation, we can’t resist trying to visit the Roluos group in the afternoon. Our new driver is the complete opposite of the last one—personifying friendliness and smiles. He’ll more than earn his generous tip by the end of the day.
Most of the structures scattered a short distance from the main sites—about 15 km away—are made of brick and in poor condition. Only a few beautiful bas-reliefs and carved figures remain, especially on the pediments.
The main monument is Bakong, the first temple-mountain of Angkor. It’s better preserved and quite tall. We really like this style. It will be our last glimpse of Angkor.
Madame is fading in the tuk-tuk and has to hand over her camera to monsieur. Back at the hotel, she’ll see that her assistant photographer didn’t do too badly, despite heavy legs, intermittent light rain, and a huge group of Asian tourists in colorful outfits that clash with the scenery.
Back home, we’ll also realize how great it was to take so many photos of the sculptures and bas-reliefs over these four days. Many details stand out that you can’t fully appreciate in the moment—otherwise, you’d spend weeks there. We’re amazed, surprised, and even laugh at some of it.
But for now, we’re not laughing much. We planned the trip so there’d be just one—but a long—transit day. That day is tomorrow. The flights are booked, no choice—when it’s time to go, it’s time to go! We just hope to avoid the worst.
18/07/2013
So it was a real transit day—intestinal transit included. There are some pretty funny details we could share, but we’ll spare you. Let’s just say that miraculously, everything went okay. Barely, but okay.
After leaving all our Cambodian money with the adorable tuk-tuk driver, we take the propeller plane back to Bangkok. After an interesting visit to the pharmacy at Suvarnabhumi, we take a taxi to the other airport.
A few hours later, we board a cheap Air Asia flight, and an hour after that, we’re at Krabi Airport.
Due to the seasonal weather, we’d already decided to postpone visiting wonders like Phang Nga, Koh Phi Phi, or Koh Lanta. So we’ll start our slow journey back toward Bangkok from Krabi.
That evening, we noticed the positive side of Thailand’s tourist organization: at the airport, someone sees us looking around and immediately directs us to the shuttle. As soon as we get off, another person puts us in a minibus, and in no time, we’re at the hotel. Good thing, too—we were pretty out of it.
We’d picked the Krabi Cozy Place Hotel, right in the city but in a quiet corner. We weren’t in any state to fully enjoy it, but for 27 €, we had really nice rooms overlooking the pool and a great breakfast. Of course, many of the prices we mention are only valid in the low season. The layout and vegetation are tastefully done. The staff were very friendly and smiling. We asked if they knew a taxi driver who could take us on a long sightseeing trip the next day, and twenty minutes later, our guy was there to plan the route and discuss the price.
We had to skip the great restaurant we’d planned to try. It was already dark when we slowly made our way through the nearly deserted city like an old couple. We bravely—and nervously—snacked on a little rice from a street vendor before enjoying some much-needed rest.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
It's funny, I also caught something similar in Siem Reap (the only time during 7 weeks of traveling in northern Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia)... But I have to say, we had eaten *very* local one evening. And it was the next day that we visited Tonlé Sap and Roluos. Our tuk-tuk had to make an "emergency" stop in front of a house to ask the locals for permission so I could rush to the bathroom. Obviously, since we were on the way out for our day of sightseeing, we had to improvise (thanks, Imodium!), and the day went more or less okay, but I barely enjoyed Roluos for the same reasons...
By the end of the day, once we were back at the hotel, I took the miracle medicine (following the travel clinic doctor’s instructions before we left) for "traveler’s diarrhea," and the next day, everything was back to normal. I’ll always keep some on me from now on—not in my toiletries bag at the hotel.
Too bad you couldn’t visit Ta Prohm—it’s stunning—but as you said, it’ll be an excuse to go back someday!
Come on, we’re waiting for the rest of your Krabi story!
Thanks so much! !
Amazing travel journal. Thanks for sharing! :)
We also fulfilled our dream of visiting the Angkor temples last summer. Absolutely stunning. We rediscovered Bangkok and Thailand too. We spent 2 months in Southeast Asia (Thailand, Cambodia, Kuala Lumpur, and Indonesia: Flores/Lombok/Bali). Asia is home to so many wonders and paradise-like spots. We’re compiling our travel journals and tips for fellow travelers on our blog (with videos). If you’re planning your trip or just dreaming of getting away, here are our travel stories from Asia, our take on the Angkor temples, and our Bangkok City Guide.
Happy travels to all! !
Récits de voyage et conseils aux voyageurs sur le blog http://www.onedayonetravel.com #Thaïlande #Indonésie #Brésil #Cambodge #Europe #Inde #Suède #Argentine
This is the perfect time to thank a forum member who, if I remember correctly, pointed out that the road between Phang Nga and Suratthani was the most beautiful in Thailand. That’s why we’re stopping by Krabi before heading to the islands. It’s always such a great moment during vacation when you treat yourself to a little extra to explore several pretty spots. There’s a cost to it, but we’d rather skip something else during the year—nothing would ever compare to the value of a memorable day.
The day before, we haggled hard but couldn’t get the price we’d hoped for, which had been mentioned by VoyageForum members. The taxi and his vehicle cost us 4,500 baht for a 230 km trip, knowing full well that our driver would have to make the return journey, even if it was a shorter route than the loop we took on the way there. On top of that, we didn’t have time to shop around—we were just relieved to have found someone so quickly.
We ended up with a very kind and friendly man; it was a pleasure. It’s something we’ve noticed over time—many Thais really know how to interact with tourists. Some even go above and beyond what we expect.
We make a quick stop in town to see what it’s like. Aren’t those two little cuties adorable, spontaneously posing for us?
We head north first, and our first stop is the Tiger Cave. We were expecting something a bit insignificant—a short nature break for tourists wanting to escape the monotony of the beach. Not at all. We’re glad we gave our driver free rein, insisting we wanted to see beautiful places. It’s a large complex, partly under construction. Temples, quite a few statues, monkeys roaming freely, all set against the mountain. We also enjoyed the cave with the replica of the Emerald Buddha at the back. Steps lead into the cliff, with paths to a forest walk or a viewpoint, but we’re still recovering, and we don’t want to blow our schedule right at the start.
A few kilometers further on, we reach a large and beautiful temple high up in the tropical forest. The interior is adorned with high-quality illustrations, and in the center of the room, a golden relic is displayed, though it’s hard to see because of the heavy security. Outside, there’s a great view of the plain and the hill opposite, where a giant Buddha emerges.
Our driver makes another stop near a river. A lovely spot where a few people are kayaking along the mangroves. For once, we don’t know exactly where we are, but it doesn’t matter—the joy is there.
What’s especially nice about having a driver at your disposal is that you can stop whenever you want. We do, without overdoing it. Here, a family’s little stand selling lychees by a pond overlooked by a karst cliff; there, processions of villagers, then a tiny, very rural restaurant.
In the afternoon, we take a short break by Lake Ratchaprapa, at one end of Khao Sok National Park. It’s very pretty, but the morning sun has given way to a threatening sky.
It’s time to head east—we’re running late. We still stop to photograph a traditional house. Of course, the elderly owner comes to ask why we’re there and invites us inside. What follows is a lovely moment of exchange; this time, we have an interpreter.
Throughout the journey, the tropical landscape scrolling by is rich and pleasant to behold. Without a doubt, we’d love to come back one day to spend more time in this province and explore it in detail.
At our request, the driver calls Songserm from his car to book our boat ticket for the next day. We’re surprised he makes us pay right away. He just gives us a ticket with his letterhead. Having spent time with him since the day before, we could tell he was trustworthy, and that turned out to be true. The price we paid was the standard rate.
His only lie, if it even was one, was claiming that Songserm was the best company.
We check into the Wangtai Hotel. Suratthani isn’t an interesting city—we didn’t put much effort into finding a unique hotel, especially since the choice is limited and we’re just passing through.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Like many supposedly upscale hotels in Asia, the luxury and glitz are mostly confined to the lobby and reception area. Everything else often swings between outdated and dilapidated. That was the case at the Wangtai. The plumbing was on its last legs, the soundproofing was a bit lacking, and the sliding window was warped and wouldn’t close completely. Still, at 22 € a night, the air conditioning was good, the bedding was comfortable, and there was a pool we didn’t have time to check out...
The next morning, we got a surprise when we went to settle the bill: the total was much higher than expected. We’d used room service the night before, and the prices for the dishes and drinks definitely didn’t match what we were charged. We quickly went back up to the room and came back down with the menu. It turned out the in-room price list had never been updated, and none of the many employees working there over the past decade had thought to address the issue.
At first, they refused to adjust the current prices. We insisted that honoring the prices listed in the room at the time of ordering was also a matter of respecting the customer. They eventually agreed to a small discount, but we were feeling particularly persistent that day. What followed was a series of negotiations, minor frustrations, and us pulling out all the stops: what would happen if we called the police? If we shared our story online or on Agoda? From the outside, the scene must have been comical—two of us fired up, facing eight staff members taking turns behind the reception desk with defeated expressions.
Then, of course, the dignified and august manager arrived, and we started all over again. By the end of the exchange—a mix of exasperation and smiles—they finally gave in. The final act was a memorable round of mutual apologies and polite farewells.
Our taxi had politely waited and took us to the bus, as the Songserm ferry terminal was several dozen kilometers away. Another chance to admire the beauty of the landscape in this region.
The ferry we’d imagined as larger was almost an hour late. With Songserm, there were far more standing spots than seats, and an extra charge of 30 baht for seats to Samui and 40 baht for those heading to Koh Phangan, in a room pompously called the VIP Room. There was also an English movie with Thai subtitles blaring at a volume that was way too loud, though the sound cut out completely most of the time. And finally, total chaos when unloading luggage at the Koh Samui stop. The ferry seemed very slow to us. We wouldn’t repeat the experience with Songserm.
So far, the weather has been what we’re used to at this time of year: summer isn’t quite over, and the monsoon hasn’t really started yet.
The sun welcomed us to Koh Phangan. Eager to get to the hotel, we didn’t haggle over the pickup taxi price of 200 baht per person—we later saw the hotel offered it for 150 baht.
We arrived on the northwest coast at Haad Yao Highlife Bungalow Hotel, 77 € for two nights without breakfast but with a beautiful infinity pool. The photos on the website looked promising. It’s a small place with its own charm, and we’d opted for one of the more budget-friendly bungalows. As for downsides, the bedding was a bit worn, and the location up high meant we had to go down—and back up—several dozen steps to reach the beach. What’s more, at high tide, you had to wade through about ten meters of waist-deep water to get there.
On the plus side, the list was long: real peace and quiet, a stunning view of the beach below, a clean and reasonably sized pool near the restaurant, beautiful tropical plants scattered everywhere, excellent food with one of the best pad thai we’d had just when our appetites returned, great music—quality rock or house—and, most of all, incredibly friendly and attentive staff. Not to mention the hammock on the balcony terrace and the three comfy hammocks in a little chill-out spot near the pool, with a sea view. Of course, we look back on it all with nostalgia. In one of the photos, the photographer recovering...
The late-night dips in the pool were nice, but why on earth hadn’t they heated the pool when earlier in the afternoon we’d noticed they’d heated the sea?
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Can't wait for the next part! Personally, we really loved Koh Pha Ngan, so I'm looking forward to reading your thoughts on this island.
And, like Joël, I'd love a bit more to read !😉 Just kidding, of course! There's not much to say about one night in Surat Thani...
Your compliments mean a lot to us—it’s a great reward.
Of course, it’s a bit frustrating to wait for the next episode. We’re doing our best to publish at least one post every 48 hours when possible. We need to carefully review our notes to include details that could be useful for other travelers, which takes more time, but that’s the whole point...
Some stops turned out to be less interesting than expected, while others were much more so.
One thing’s for sure: some days will get a deeper dive, and you’ll soon see new photos that we’re sure you’ll enjoy. Hang in there...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
What a joy to read your post!
It’s so smooth, full of humor and details—great job!
And not a single spelling mistake!! A real feat.
Thanks to PARIS ET MATCH!!
Looking forward to reading the rest soon...
It’s not mean-spirited, but I find this remark particularly out of place, especially by emphasizing the "feat," as if not making spelling mistakes were reserved for just some people...😕
So please, don’t make it a controversial topic.
And what does Nicolas Bouvier have to do with any of this????
Hello,
Oh, why?
Nicolas Bouvier?
The Bouvier’s dog?
Could you explain, please? Thanks.
And... no mistakes, lol.
Bouvier - Wikipedia
fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouvier
Thanks
Nicolas BOUVIER, of course!
But here again, people will think I'm CONDESCENDING!!!! But I don't care!!
I express myself like so many other forum members—long live FREEDOM of speech, especially on a forum.
Of course it's mean and uncalled for.
This travel account is fascinating, so why not praise the authors of these beautiful pages???
Your comment doesn’t add anything.
That’s exactly what I was afraid of—condescension and nothing more. As for Nicolas Bouvier, I bet he’s laughing his head off and wondering what game you’re playing... 😏
Nicolas BOUVIER of course!
But here again, people will find me CONDESCENDING!!!! But I don't care!!
I express myself like so many other forum members.
LONG LIVE FREEDOM of speech, especially on a forum.
Of course it's mean and uncalled for.
This travel journal is fascinating, so why not praise the authors of these beautiful pages???
Your comment doesn't add anything.
Hmm, condescending isn't just two words, is it?
Lol (and not mean)
But please avoid trashing this post, for once we're reading something really great!
The weather’s a bit iffy in the early morning. We were expecting bright sunshine over the islands, but over these few days, the climate has actually been a little less favorable than on the mainland.
While we’re having breakfast waiting for the shuttle to our excursion, we meet Coco, the house attraction. Coco flits around the restaurant waiting for a snack. Coco knows everyone, but if you hand over a pen, you know you’ll see Coco again—but not the pen. He’s also a non-smoker because he’ll perch at your table and methodically dismantle your pack of cigarettes, along with every single one inside...
We went through Orion Boat Trips for a day trip to the Ang Thong Marine Park, located due west between the islands and the coast. Our attempts to book online on their website didn’t work out. We just kept getting emails saying a response was coming soon—but it never did. Once we asked in person, we were told: "Oh yeah, you can’t book on the website!" No big deal—whether from Samui or Phangan, just ask at your hotel reception, and they’ll sort it out in five minutes.
The day costs 45 € per person, all-inclusive, including snorkeling gear rental. You set off on a well-worn but seaworthy boat. The friendly organizer giving the departure briefing looks like he’s seen even more of life than the boat. He’s got that ex-hippie vibe—maybe Dutch? But he’s a nice guy who knows his stuff and takes good care of the clients in his charge.
You’ve got to admit, the food is pretty decent. There are unlimited drinks, and throughout the day, they always hand out little treats at just the right moment (bananas, pineapple, watermelon, big, delicious fritters).
During the hour-plus journey, the weather’s changeable—occasional raindrops here and there, not ideal. To be honest, full sun wouldn’t be much better. The first stop near a small islet is for the only snorkeling session, which is short and fairly unremarkable.
The first stop on one of Ang Thong’s islands lets you climb up to admire a stunning little emerald-green inland lake, which you can also walk around.
After lunch, we stop at the famous island where you can choose between kayaking or hiking up to the viewpoint. The climb takes between 20 and 40 minutes through the tropical forest. It’s best not to be out of shape, especially when the ground is wet. This time, there are no steps—just big rocks all the way. For most of the hike, the only option is to haul yourself up using the thick ropes marking what you can hardly call a path. If you rush, given the heat and humidity, you’ll reach the top with your head boiling. With a backpack, it’s a workout.
Of course, when you take in the view, you forget all about it. It’s simply breathtaking. The scenery speaks for itself—just savor it.
You savor it on the way down too—it’s slippery, and at times, you’re practically crawling on all fours to stay safe. It’s a relief to finally reach the white sand.
The return trip seems shorter, and it’s nice to admire Koh Phangan as you sail past at the end.
Another good meal at the hotel, and before others arrive, we rush to the hammocks next to the restaurant, which we occupy for several hours. Nothing in the world could make us move—fruit juices, smoothies, gazing at the beach and the horizon where little lights start flickering on everywhere. Just the usual, really...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Uh! I wasn’t talking about Jojoon1’s post, which is actually very well written, but about Marieblue’s comment pointing out that writing without spelling mistakes is some kind of achievement. That’s dismissive toward the author. That’s all!
We didn’t want to linger too long on the islands—it gets monotonous pretty quickly. Let’s just say it was a quick tour to see what they’re like. If we were younger, we definitely would’ve enjoyed spending three weeks exploring Koh Phangan.
Before leaving the hotel, we slipped a bill into the tip box for the staff. They really earned it.
Mid-morning, we headed to Koh Tao with Seatran. The service was much better than Songserm’s, and this time, at least the ferry actually moved.
We had a super sunny afternoon—it’s really a lottery. The taxi was complimentary from the hotel, which was great because on this island, every ride costs you 300 baht!
We went for something a bit original and a touch of luxury by choosing La Cigale hotel (64 euros—ouch!). The owner, André Allen, is a tall, smiling Anglo-Jamaican with a classic London accent. Its elevated location on the northwest side of the island guarantees peace and quiet. The bungalows scattered through nature offer optimal comfort. We’ve never seen a room so well-equipped—there’s even a DVD player with kids' movies and various magazines. As for the bathroom, though it’s inside the building, it’s furnished with... plants. Toilets, shower, and sink in a tropical setting!
The terrace gives us a full view of Sairee Beach—pure dream landscape.
After our nap, we noticed the weather had changed again. That didn’t stop us from heading down to the beach and taking the paved path from Haad Yao to Haad Mae.
It was dark by the time we returned, and we couldn’t find the path back to our bungalow. Luckily, the hotel’s service includes lending a mobile phone to call the owner. So we didn’t end up sleeping in the jungle with snakes and spiders.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
It rained a bit in the evening and more during the night. We came to Koh Tao hoping to tour the island by longtail boat during the day, but we’ll have to give up on that plan—on top of the gray skies, there’s a lot of wind. We knew that at this time of year, one or two days might be tough, but this time it’s really not ideal. Goodbye to saying hello to the little fish, goodbye to the stunning viewpoints and dozens of paradise-like photos. The 2,500 baht we saved won’t exactly lift our spirits.
So, we put Plan B into action. In the morning, we set off on foot toward the viewpoint overlooking the Nanguyan islets—those famous rocky points connected by a strip of fine sand you see in all the ads.
It’s a pleasant walk, though luckily it’s not too far since there’s some elevation gain. Every little stroll in Asia is enjoyable—through Western eyes, there’s always something interesting, surprising, or funny to observe.
The viewpoint is inside a large resort where staying isn’t exactly affordable. It’s disheartening to see, just before the entrance, piles of trash everywhere, people burning waste in the open air, and let’s not even talk about the smell. It reminds us of that forum member who mentioned the "other side of the coin" about Koh Tao.
After our little trek, we worked up an appetite. We’re far from everything, so let’s have lunch at the resort. Of course, the food isn’t great. Sure, we’re eating on a beautiful balcony overlooking the sea, with views of the beach, rocks, and islets. But what do you make of a resort where a night costs at least 100 €, yet they can’t even provide a crab cracker or an espresso machine?
We spent the afternoon wandering around the village and shops, watching people go about their lives while sipping good milk chocolate and banana shakes at a friendly vendor’s stall near an intersection. In the end, being forced to take a break did us some good. We always pack our days so full to see as much as possible that we end up exhausted but happy. A little pause from activities doesn’t hurt. And let’s not forget—with the heat, humidity, and youth long gone, every step counts triple. Plus, the alien that invaded our stomachs in Cambodia is only just leaving us.
These islands *are* beautiful. But hotels are pricier, taxis are overpriced, and more than one restaurant doesn’t live up to Thailand’s reputation.
On Koh Tao, we mostly saw clothes shops, massage parlors, and restaurants.
Now, we’re really looking forward to the highlight of our trip: the east coast of Southern Thailand, from Chumphon to Bangkok...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Waiting for the boat on the dock, we won’t have any regrets: a few raindrops, gusts of wind—seriously, it’s almost chilly. We try not to think that from the day after our departure, it might be sunny for a whole month.
The Lomprayah boat looks like a hovercraft. Inside, it’s a bit like a movie theater without a screen. It rocks a little, but that’s just because the boat is going much faster. For the same price, we definitely preferred Lomprayah.
For this part of mainland southern Thailand, planning wasn’t easy. Paper guides don’t go into much detail, and even on this forum, only a few people seem to have explored it. We were able to complete our itinerary after some tedious online research.
Our luck was finding a hotel where one of the employees speaks English fluently and responds quickly and efficiently to questions. This helped us optimize our stay. That’s how the hotel driver was waiting for us right at the pier so we could start our visits.
Of course, things didn’t go as planned. We later realized that, probably to please us, the hotel had added unplanned—and unwanted—stops to our itinerary. So at the first stop, we were a bit surprised to pay 200 baht each for entry. We ended up in a small, poorly maintained natural park with a museum, a walk through a large mangrove with a suspension bridge over a channel near the sea.
We were a little annoyed, especially since the driver, who was otherwise very friendly, didn’t understand what we were trying to explain. He finally handed us his phone, and after some difficulty, we managed to make our contact understand that we preferred to stick to the original plan.
That’s how we arrived at the memorial of a prince, son of a former king of Thailand. He’s venerated, along with a few monks, in this place made up of two small chapels and a courtyard. The whole thing was built to resemble a boat. Below, you can even board a small torpedo boat. It’s quite unique.
We had a peaceful lunch by Sairee Beach.
The afternoon was more interesting. Our driver took us to a viewpoint on a hill overlooking the small town of Pak Nam, a few kilometers south of Chumphon. The view alone was worth the trip. You can see the lush, mountainous countryside, Pak Nam with its river and port facilities, the beaches and islands, and the sea where the green, blue, and brown waters create a pastel tableau that photos can’t fully capture.
Our last visit was to Wat Fa Sala Loy, a temple set in the countryside and forest. We loved the atmosphere with its large central tree, roosters, and dogs. Monks were in the middle of a ceremony, and we took a discreet peek—those prayers and chants always delight us; that’s what travel is all about.
In an old dwelling, a mummified monk rests under a glass bell. It was time for our small donation.
The long half-day cost us 25 €, including the vehicle and guide.
It wasn’t late yet when we returned to the hotel after this packed day. The Tanisa Resort costs 25 € per night. Large rooms, good bedding, AC, and friendly staff. The buildings surround a slightly chilly pool that’s not perfectly maintained. When we arrived, young Asian guests were swimming in it fully clothed, as is customary.
Even though the hotel restaurant has a good reputation, we preferred to head into town. It was only two or three kilometers away, but the taxi overcharged us by asking for 60 baht.
Chumphon itself isn’t particularly interesting, but in the evening, there’s a lot of activity on the main street. There are tons of street vendors preparing all kinds of dishes. After enjoying the scene for a while, we had a seafood omelet at one of the stalls—40 baht, a bit greasy but delicious.
We stopped elsewhere to enjoy fried fish and fish eggs with garlic (total 120 baht).
To help it all go down, we walked back—it was so pleasant out...
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
For this second and final day in Chumphon, we let ourselves be guided around again. We didn’t opt for an island excursion—we were quoted too high a price for a private trip, and we weren’t in town long enough to find a sailor who’d offer a better rate. For those passing through the area, we’d like to point out that there are a large number of small islands off the coast of Chumphon, roughly divided into two chains, one further north than the other. The photos we’ve seen online are really tempting—there are about half a dozen that look stunning, like the northern duo Ngam Hoi and Ngam Hai, as well as Ko Chorakee, and to the south, Koh Marttra and Rangka Chio. It seems the best time to visit is in the spring. Maybe someone will volunteer to do a little report one day?
We drive for a while, and the scenery remains very pleasant.
Part of the Thep Jaroen temple is located under a rocky cliff. There’s also a mummified monk. Steps lead to a large circular cave where we discover a substantial collection of old Buddhas, most of them made of wood. For once, they’re not flashy, gaudy, or freshly repainted representations. You really feel like you’re in an authentic place, clearly left as it was. A beautiful, isolated spot where we’re alone. In this cave, we see the only snake of our trip—a gray creature about a meter long. It seems to be dying and barely moves; this will be its final resting place.
The next visits take us to another cave, still lost in the middle of nature in a pretty setting, then to a small waterfall, but nothing remarkable.
We have lunch at a small beachside restaurant in Thung Wallaen. The place feels a bit like a holiday village, but at this time of year, like everywhere else along this coast, we see very few people. Authentic Thailand can also be found along these 700 km of coastline south of Bangkok—we keep noticing it. As soon as you leave the towns, you quickly feel that pleasant sense of "the way things used to be" and "the end of the world."
After finding our receipts, it turns out the first day was charged at 800 baht, and the second at 1200 baht for a much longer distance. Very reasonable and super comfortable.
On the way back, as usual, it’s the pineapple-banana stop. This time, we send the driver. Sure enough, the prices aren’t the same. A very large cut pineapple costs 30 baht, and a bunch of about fifteen small bananas goes for 15 baht!
Since our street-dinner experiment was a success the night before, we go back in the evening. There are so many improbable rural looks, so many funny scenes, so many old-fashioned shops—we love it.
It’s another feast, and our T-shirts end up smelling strongly of fried food.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
Bon, celà fait deux mois que nous sommes rentrés, deux mois que je vis avec des souvenirs pleins la tête, deux mois que je me dis qu'il faudrait tout raconter,…
Voici un bref extrait de mon carnet de voyage au Cambodge, vous pourrez profiter des petites vidéos que je vous ai préparé. Jour 1: La sortie de l'aéroport de…
SIEM REAP On peut maintenant louer des scooters un peu partout à Siem Reap, à des prix d’escroc, 15-18$ par jour au lieu de 5-10 partout ailleurs en Indochine.…
Carnets de voyage › Cambodge / Thaïlande · 6 replies
Et voilà, je me décide à écrire ce carnet de notre dernier voyage. Pour commencer, des petites présentations: Nous voyageons régulièrement, souvent une…
Carnets de voyage › Cambodge / Thaïlande · 97 replies
Nous sommes partis au Cambodge (via Bangkok) avec nos deux filles de 7 et 10 ans, durant un mois. Je n'avais pas spécialement l'intention de rédiger un petit…
June 2024.
While hiking with my brother on the GR 36 Tour du Morvan, I catch sight now and then of strange rectangular markers fixed to tree trunks. Against a bright orange background, a deep black Greek tau topped with a white dove. My first encounter with the Assisi Way.
The Way of St. Francis: a pilgrimage route linking Vézelay in Burgundy to Assisi in Italy, covering nearly 1,800 km.
It felt like an obvious next step—I immediately knew I’d take it on, attempt the adventure solo.
In the months that followed, I talked about my project to everyone—family, friends, my partner. An avalanche of comments, more or less the same but varying depending on each person’s character and life experiences. But deep down, it all boiled down to one legitimate question: why?
And the answers?
Hesitant, awkward, partial, even confused. I quickly realized they weren’t so easy to find. It was as if my project seemed more like a whim, a kind of intimate caprice, rather than a well-thought-out plan.
Of course, I knew the reasons that pushed me to leave—you always have to give some. Loved ones need to understand to feel reassured, and that’s understandable.
But I fear that when I list them, they’ll sound like the same old checklist anyone embarking on this kind of journey might give.
Of all the reasons I could mention, I’ll highlight just one here: the call of the road, the solo adventure that brings a powerful sense of freedom.
A bit like Monsieur Seguin’s goat, who from her comfortable pen gazes longingly at the unconstrained horizon of the mountain.
But if I’m being honest, I think I didn’t really know what I was looking for—or, more importantly, what I’d find. Deep down, when I reflect on it, one word keeps coming up that explains nothing and everything at once: desire.
Now well past sixty, I know that when I ask myself who I am or where I’m going, two things bring me fully back to myself: hiking and writing.
And my intention was also to anchor this adventure through words, day by day. Writing down my feelings, emotions, discoveries, and reflections each evening. The famous travel journal that grounds the daily experience in reality.
When I discovered the app "Polarstep," which was initially just meant to keep my loved ones updated and reassured, inform them of my progress, and maintain a connection, I found an opportunity to do it a little differently than usual.
No retrospective notes polished up after returning, but spontaneous writing—recounting everything that crossed my mind during the day and publishing it immediately. A journey lived in real time.
This text is the exact transcription of my daily writings. Rereading them, I didn’t change a thing—just corrected a few mistakes and tweaked some awkward phrasing here and there. Short texts, fitting the format imposed by this kind of app. Writing as if addressing others.
Now, all that was left was to walk.
April 18, 2026 – Vézelay.
This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one.
So, here we go...
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rentals kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything fell into place—I told myself, now’s the time!
Preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or play it by ear?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela on this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(‘Beefsteak’ for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
02 mars — Départ en bus de Latour à 6 h 50. Le trajet n’est pas direct : nous traversons Elne puis Corneilla. À Perpignan je change de bus pour un BlablaBus en direction de la gare routière nord de Barcelone. Avant d’arriver au Perthus, la police française nous arrête pour vérifier les papiers d’identité. Plusieurs personnes ne sont pas en règle, mais après environ un quart d’heure nous repartons. Nous sommes de nouveau contrôlés à La Jonquera : cette fois l’attente dure presque trois quarts d’heure pendant que la police identifie les personnes en infraction et attend qu’un véhicule vienne les récupérer. Le chauffeur essaie ensuite de rattraper le retard ; nous arrivons finalement à destination avec une demi‑heure de retard.
Je me rends rapidement à la station de métro Arc de Triomphe, située à 200 m : il faut traverser le pont le long du parking des bus, puis traverser un grand jardin ; la station se trouve à droite avant l’entrée du jardin. Le trajet vers l’aéroport n’est pas direct : je dois changer à Tomasso et prendre la ligne pour l’aéroport, où j’arrive à 13 h.
Au comptoir d’Emirates j’apprends que mon vol vient d’être annulé en raison de la guerre en Iran ; on me propose un autre vol pour le lendemain. Je dois attendre à l’aéroport jusqu’à 19 h avant d’être conduite à un hôtel ; le lendemain matin je prendrai un vol pour Vienne (avec une escale de 8 h), puis un vol Air India pour Delhi et enfin un vol pour Kolkata. J’accepte : je ne connais pas Vienne, ce sera une découverte imprévue.
À 19 h, un petit groupe est conduit à l’hôtel, à 35 minutes de l’aéroport, où l’on nous sert un léger dîner à notre arrivée.
03 mars — Un taxi vient me chercher à 6 h 30 ; le vol pour Vienne décolle à 9 h 30 et arrive à 12 h. Je suis libre jusqu’à 19 h ; le métro est direct pour rejoindre le centre‑ville. Le temps est agréable et pas trop froid, heureusement, car mes vêtements sont légers.
À la sortie du métro j’aperçois au loin la tour de la cathédrale Saint‑Étienne et je m’en approche : la toiture, faite de tuiles vernissées, est remarquable.
L’entrée est gratuite et l’intérieur, de style gothique et baroque au centre, est grandiose.
Non loin de là se trouve l’église Saint‑Anne
, également baroque, ornée de belles fresques
un concert de musique ajoute une atmosphère envoûtante à la visite.
Je poursuis ma promenade au hasard dans les rues piétonnes aux magnifiques bâtiments : je suis séduite par la ville.
Avant de repartir pour l’aéroport, je fais une halte dans un joli salon de thé. Mon vol partira finalement avec du retard.
Mercredi 4 mars — Delhi et petite frayeur bagages
Nous arrivons à Delhi peu après midi. Le passage à l’immigration est rapide et, bonne nouvelle, mon sac a été enregistré depuis Barcelone pour Kolkata. Je me rends donc au terminal de correspondance et arrive une demi‑heure avant l’embarquement : le vol se déroule sans problème. À l’arrivée, les bagages sortent vite… sauf le mien. Après avoir fait une déclaration, on me signale que mon sac est à Delhi — il faut aller le récupérer avant de prendre un autre vol. Je l’ignorais (ou l’avais oublié) : avec le retard accumulé, je n’aurais pas eu le temps de le récupérer et de prendre la correspondance.
Je prends un taxi pour l’hôtel Ichamati. L’accueil est chaleureux et la chambre propre, mais très petite. Sans mon sac, je me sens un peu désemparée — je n’ai rien pour me changer.
Ce soir je dîne avec Raja et ses amis dans un beau resto, une ancienne maison coloniale transformée en hôtel.
Nous sommes heureux de nous voir et passons une bonne soirée réconfortante.
After a pretty disastrous weather-wise trip to Gran Canaria, we’re hoping this time the sun will shine in Puglia.
It’s not a sure thing, though—the weather’s been awful all over Europe in early May.
For those who’d like to (re)read the story without the digressions, it’s here.
Saturday, May 16:
This time we’re flying out of Charleroi (Brussels South): the ticket prices, flight times, and proximity all worked for us.
The airport (Ryanair) was recently renovated... but it’s still not very well organized. There are hardly any seats in the boarding areas, and... the restrooms cost money!!!
The flight goes smoothly, though, and we land in Bari a little late.
We quickly pick up our rental car, a very local-looking Pandina (even more so than the Fiat 500 in this region), and hit the Italian roads... and their unique driving quirks (like the fact that the countless road signs along the streets and in towns are purely decorative 😏, and that Italian cars don’t have turn signals 😮... except for rental cars).
About an hour later, we arrive at our first accommodation, right in the middle of the countryside near Monopoli.
The owner isn’t there, but they’ve left us a ton of info via messages and even turned on the space heater, which is a nice touch.
We explore the property:
And the next morning before breakfast, its immediate surroundings:
Sunday, May 17:
After our "seaside" experience in Gran Canaria last weekend (packed with people and locals), we decide to start inland.
After a hearty breakfast,
we head toward Alberobello, a super touristy village famous for its trulli—those stone houses with conical roofs.
We easily find a free parking spot on a street near the Aia Piccola district, where some trulli are still lived in year-round.
We almost immediately come across the Trullo Sovrano (the only two-story one), which you can visit (but we skip it—it’s opening time, and there’s already a line).
From there, we head down toward the Basilica of Cosma e Damiano... but we don’t go in because there’s a mass.
Now we’re on the main Piazza del Popolo, which connects the two districts of Alberobello: Rione Aia Piccola and Rione Monti, the more touristy one.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
Here’s a little story about my first trip to Japan with my partner.
We went for our first visit from October 29 to November 13, 2024.
I had planned this entire trip back in November 2020, but given the health situation at the time, I had to cancel...
Here’s the classic route we took:
We booked everything ourselves and got a regional pass for the area from Kyoto to Hiroshima.
The hotels were reserved 3 months in advance on Book... and Agod... (1030 € for 2 people for 13 nights = 80 €/night).
For the flight, we chose a Qatar Airways flight with a layover to break up the long journey (950 € per person).
We also got a pass on the same site (Japan-Experience) to take the train connecting Narita Airport to Shibuya Station (the N'EX Narita Express).
Since the airport is 75 km from central Tokyo, we opted for this mode of transport, even though there are cheaper alternatives.
After reading various posts on VoyageForum, I understood how important it was to have a Welcome Suica card to pay for public transport (subway, tram, bus, boat throughout the country), and we were able to buy one at Narita Airport.
It turned out to be super useful!
After a long but smooth journey, we found ourselves at Narita Airport in the evening.
Even though we had a pass for the Narita Express, we had to go to a counter to make a reservation for the train (mandatory).
Then, once we arrived at Shibuya Station, we took the subway for 2 stops and finally reached our hotel, exhausted (Hotel Asia Center of Japan – 270 € for 3 nights with breakfast included).
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that dot city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the "vintage" vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a colorful mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to the nearby Asakusa Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
After summer 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, here I am back in Swedish Lapland in summer 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, to tackle part of the Kungsleden trail too.
After much hesitation, my companion Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which is, from what we’ve read, stunning but very crowded (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: Sarek! This park is known as Europe’s last true wilderness—sounds like a dream, right?!
The downside of this choice is that there’s no way to resupply in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long treks either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part with the Sarek in mind.
Oh well, we’re motivated!
Our plan is to start in Abisko (classic), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official route and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad).
But at least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to bail on Sarek.
That adds up to 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day + 1 buffer day for weather hiccups.
So if you’re interested, come follow our overstuffed backpacks!
08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure
Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta)
08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri
08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja
08/06 – just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo
08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + round trip to Djalson Lake
08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure
08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden)
08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure
08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure
08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - Sarek or no Sarek?
08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen
Coming up:
08/13 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – Above the Skarki hut
We went to Albania in August 2025.
Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.
I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees.
We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.
Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors.
You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned.
The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents.
We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance.
After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine.
In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots.
In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.
And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations...
Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.
One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.
On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.
I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring.
So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings.
We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.
Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.
After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold.
We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength...
Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes:
🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman
🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...
🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great.
After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!
🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër.
After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!
But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing.
In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!
I’m diving into a recap of our loop—pretty classic, really—Denver-Yellowstone-Denver this past summer, from July 24 to August 17. Given the sheer number of trip reports already out there (or in the works), and since I don’t have the writing chops or the photography skills of many of you, I’ll keep it practical—well, I’ll try, at least—to share our take on some of the less-visited parks and spots.
First off, a huge thank you to everyone whose trip reports, blogs, websites, comments, and more helped us put together this itinerary. Looking back, it could’ve been even better optimized: a few disappointments when we missed out on some great discoveries, often because we were short on time. Plenty of reasons to come back to the area!
We’re traveling with our four (almost) teens—18, 16, 14, and nearly 12 years old. To keep the trip enjoyable for everyone, we had to make compromises on both sides: cutting a visit short to spend more time swimming, waking up at dawn, and so on. But logistics also played a big role—things like laundry, grocery shopping, and keeping luggage organized could’ve quickly become time-consuming without a little planning.
And honestly, I think we visited every Walmart along the way! Blame it on the lack of fridges in some accommodations and, more importantly, the *very* limited space in the car, which made it impossible to bring a proper cooler. I’ll come back to the car saga later.
For accommodations, this year we alternated between basic cabins in KOA campgrounds and Yellowstone (when staying more than one night in the same place) and hotels. Always with a pool (except in Yellowstone, of course), which let the kids burn off energy—because they always have reserves, even after packed days!—and, let’s be honest, gave us a chance to relax. No Wi-Fi issues either; we all had plans with 25 GB of data (a big thanks to Gilles for the amazing deal at 0.99 €). It worked perfectly, even for texts and calls between phones—no extra charges.
Now, onto our route: as I mentioned, a classic Denver-Yellowstone-Denver loop. To avoid rushing through the parks or spending all our time on the road, we prioritized staying as close to them as possible, with at least two nights in each place. And I’ve got to say, it’s really nice to settle in, even if it’s just for two nights. It also helped us deal with the weather, which wasn’t always great during this trip. The trade-off? With vacation time being limited, some driving days ended up being long. We knew that going in, but since we kept a relaxed pace with no time constraints (don’t ask me for timings—I don’t keep track of the clock on vacation, except in the morning to get everyone up before noon!), we sometimes ended up with marathon days.
With that said, I’ll dive into the trip itself in the next post.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
And we still haven’t seen everything!
Before setting off for new horizons at the end of this year, it’s time for me to share my trip to Cape Verde this summer 2025.
I particularly love these spontaneous trips, and our stay in Cape Verde is one of those because it was only at the beginning of April that we decided on this getaway, which had been catching our eye for a while, given our love for the mountains.
As always—well, when it’s open—I turned to VF, and I want to immediately thank Marie, aka ptitortue, who helped me a lot in planning this trip through her travel journals and our exchanges!
Because Cape Verde is both small and vast! We decided not to rush from one airport to another, to enjoy the places and the people, but also to relax, since the work backlog from being stuck in May (see my previous travel journal 😅) had to be caught up on in June.
So, 4 islands will be our winners from 06/28 to 07/19:
Santiago first for logistical reasons, as round-trip flights from the capital Praia were the cheapest (650 €/person from Lyon via Lisbon with TAP, still!)
São Vicente, because it’s the gateway to the next one but ultimately more than that...
Santo Antão, pretty much the main goal of the trip since Marie (and the photos) had really sold it to me.
And finally, Sal Island, for some rest—a non-negotiable condition for my other half—and we’ll see that I should’ve listened to Marie...
That said, what a chatterbox I am—buckle up, flight attendants at the doors, off we go on new beautiful escapes! (Thanks to Sophie for the easy loan)
Last note for my eager fan club 😏: yes, there will be alcohol—how could there not be in the land of grogue!
Hello,
Since I enjoy not only the countryside but also everything related to rail travel, I’m starting this photo thread dedicated to trains in Thailand (I’d guess most of us have taken one at some point...).
Feel free to post your pictures here as long as they fit the theme: rolling stock**, stations**, platforms, tracks (even without a train on them), technical equipment, engineering structures (bridges, viaducts), etc.—all in Thailand.
For each photo, I’ll (or you can) note the station or line where it was taken.
Comments and questions are welcome.
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s.
Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid.
Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.
Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior.
Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust...
What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.
Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.
After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold?
And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs.
The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.
Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!
That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos.
When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.
Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.
The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.
Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams.
The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*
Hi there,
Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo).
It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people.
At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.
Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.
The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it.
Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead.
We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!
That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉
I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.
Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá
We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.
Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento
The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air.
We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems.
We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.
Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley
This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect.
That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.
Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views
The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet.
In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.
Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall
We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill.
We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.
Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales
Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.
Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs
In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.
Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games
We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.
Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast
Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.
Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena
We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.
Day 11 – Road to Barú
A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.
Day 12 – Beach and relaxation
A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.
Day 13 – On to Santa Marta
Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.
Day 14 – Tayrona Park
We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.
Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá
Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.
Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip
Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.
That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle.
The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia.
Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.
If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change:
- I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly.
- Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.
Since I didn’t have time to write a proper travel journal, I thought I’d share a few photos of Bologna—a really lovely city I discovered in 2017 while stopping on my way to Tuscany.
Around Piazza Maggiore, which was packed with a stage and chairs for a show, stands the Basilica of San Petronio, massive and Gothic in style, with an unfinished façade (a common sight in Italy).
Another building near the square:
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory?
In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination).
So, read on... or don’t .
Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).
This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.
We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less).
This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro).
We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call!
Whose fault is it?
Storm Thérèse’s!
Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...
But even without Thérèse...
Saturday 21/03
Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia.
The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down.
It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.
We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter.
We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.
It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier).
So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours.
We found a huge parking lot... empty.
The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕.
So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.
The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon.
As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!
Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon!
Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded .
The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.
So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete.
The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛).
Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked!
Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.
Trip Planning
My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers.
I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.
The Trip
Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22
Departure
It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station.
The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots.
We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible.
We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher.
We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it.
I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes.
We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel.
After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room.
A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view.
It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want.
Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day.
Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive.
A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery.
We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all.
In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.
Tuesday, September 23
After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park.
The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds.
Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride.
We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park.
It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot.
We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos.
At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam.
The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock.
On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.
Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.
Wednesday, September 24
We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast.
When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer.
The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers.
You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes.
At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics.
Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua.
This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique.
There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water.
Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water.
Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics.
Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon.
We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano.
A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano.
When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring.
We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.
Thursday, September 25
After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano.
This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater.
Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment.
The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks.
You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach.
Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products.
We then head to the famous Papagayo beach.
The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue.
From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road.
Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover.
We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches.
We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks.
The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful.
We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.
Friday, September 26
We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit.
Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time.
The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here.
We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops.
We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice.
Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting.
We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.
Saturday, September 27
After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works.
Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down.
We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95.
We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach.
At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.
Sunday, September 28
We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious.
We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away.
We return the rental car and go to the airport.
A long line to check in our luggage.
The return flight is on time.
A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station.
We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases.
The rental is between the old port and the train station.
Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor.
The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular.
This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.
In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit.
I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual.
Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up...
We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...
As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??
The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.
In Addis... "our" A-350.
.....
After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.
By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later.
Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.
Welcome on board:
Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:
I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias??
As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...
On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!!
Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.
It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge.
Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...
Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.
Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??
A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:
Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!
When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me.
I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
Just back from two weeks in Andalusia, and I wanted to share this experience with you—maybe it’ll help with planning a trip. I’ll start with a quick recap in this post and try to add photos and day-by-day details later (still sorting through them). Hope I don’t bore you too much! 😎
Trip details:
April 20 to May 4, 2019:
7 days on the Costa de la Luz (El Puerto de Santa María) in an Airbnb,
4 days at the junction of the Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical (Salobreña) in an Airbnb,
3 days at Cabo de Gata for some rest at a campsite in Los Escullos.
Two families of four, each with our own car: three 9-year-old boys and a 6-year-old girl. One family was more into city exploration (not us, but we’re working on it), and the other preferred relaxation and nature (that’s us). We speak a little Spanish.
Over 5,000 km, including 2,500 km for the round trip from Carcassonne.
The weather: Variable, but we expected better for this region in late April. The first week on the Costa de la Luz was sometimes chilly (< 20°C), and the second week was warmer but not excessive (< 25°C). At least we didn’t get much rain!
Our budget: Around 2600 € per family:
700 € for accommodations, about 50 € per night,
1000 € for meals and restaurants. We usually spent around 50 € per family at restaurants—we ate out for lunch (except for 2–3 picnics) and cooked at home in the evenings, trying to be back by 6 PM.
600 € for activities: Río Tinto, a flamenco show, visits to the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar, Oasis Park with meals, and a kayaking trip.
300 € for gas and tolls.
Preparation: A few months ahead with bookings for accommodations and tickets for the Alhambra, Giralda, and Alcázar. We used a few travel guides—I like the *Évasion* guide for initial planning. *Géoguide* was okay, but our friends’ *Routard* was the most useful. We also spent three months brushing up on Spanish with Mosalingua (a great spaced-repetition method, max 10 minutes a day). Downloaded Maps.me and the Andalusia map in advance—essential. And we used Tricount to track shared expenses with friends—super handy.
What we did/saw:
3 city visits (Seville, Granada, and Cádiz) + Málaga for our friends (we vetoed Córdoba—too many cities for us).
4 white villages (Vejer de la Frontera, Arcos de la Frontera, Grazalema, Ronda) + Tarifa for our friends.
Beaches (Tarifa and Bolonia, Matalascañas, Nerja, Cabo de Gata).
Nature and fun moments: Doñana National Park, a kayaking trip along the rocky coast near Nerja, and the Wild West/animal park in the Tabernas Desert.
A little culture: Río Tinto mines, the archaeological site of Itálica, Columbus’s caravels, Nerja Cave for us, and the Picasso Museum in Málaga for our friends. Plus, seeing the ham-drying process in the Alpujarras (for our friends).
Our highlights
Nerja and the surrounding villages: The rocky coast was amazing, and we loved the kayaking trip, even if the water was freezing for snorkeling. The beaches are sheltered from the wind, the town is charming, and the cave is incredible.
El Rocío and Doñana National Park. El Rocío has a timeless, almost Wild West vibe—we could’ve stayed a day or two. The quiet and pine scents reminded us of the Landes region.
What we didn’t love as much:
Río Tinto mines: Not super exciting, and the guides’ nonstop chatter kind of ruined the "nature" experience.
Our little regrets (for next time):
Forgetting our passports and missing a day trip to Tangier from Tarifa.
Not having an extra day around Nerja to go snowboarding in the Sierra Nevada—just 1.5 hours away (the kayak guide suggested it).
Not spending at least one night in El Rocío to explore Doñana National Park at dawn.
Antequera with the Guadalhorce reservoir and the Caminito del Rey (but it would’ve meant 2 more hours of driving, and we didn’t have the energy).
My general impressions of Andalusia and Spain
Landscapes: A feeling of extreme concentration of a single activity in some areas—endless olive groves, wind farms on the Costa de la Luz (which I thought were well-integrated), rows of buildings along the Costa del Sol (yikes, glad we didn’t stop there), greenhouses around Almería (a shame to have frozen the coast for so many kilometers), and the massive industrial port of Huelva.
What surprised us compared to France was the lack of small hamlets—villages are clearly defined, and people cluster there, leaving vast landscapes without human presence. In France, you find houses scattered everywhere.
Roads: Relatively few tolls. Sure, rest areas aren’t as nice as in France, but the roads are in good condition, and our wallet was happy. The roads are pretty straight with countless bridges and tunnels—the upside (besides fast travel) is that there aren’t many secondary roads disrupting the scenery.
Tourism and activities: A huge variety and richness. Feels like everyone can find something they like, and 15 days barely scratched the surface. It’s amazing how quickly you go from the coast to snow-capped peaks (Sierra Nevada) or from farmland to desert (Tabernas). And the mix of European and Arabic architecture in the same city is really special.
One small regret: Not interacting more with locals. We didn’t luck out with our Airbnbs. But shopkeepers were great—very patient with my broken Spanish! :-)
Overall, I think our choice to stay on the Costa de la Luz and then near Nerja worked well. We could explore pretty easily (even if we logged a lot of kilometers), and the settings were fantastic. The 3 days of total relaxation at Cabo de Gata were perfect.
If you prefer shorter stops, you could try staying in El Rocío (easy access to Seville and great for an early visit to Doñana National Park) or maybe Grazalema for a hike in the mountains (weather-dependent). And of course, Tarifa for a day trip to Tangier or Gibraltar.
Sometimes fantasy and a change of scenery are right near home! I love exploring the four corners of the planet, but there can also be a whole world just a little farther than the end of your street—or even the tip of your nose! So I’ll share with you in pictures the beautiful kermesse of Ath, which we only discovered last August, even though we’re neighbors (we live in Lille).
I could have subtitled this travel journal: "Ferme eut’bouc tin nez va quer eud’dans"; it’s an expression in Picard language, literally “Close your mouth or your nose will fall in,” said to someone who’s amazed—and amazed I was!!!
Ooooooooh, giants!
Oh, how I love them! In the North, we have lots of these giants, like Reuze Papa and Reuze Maman in Cassel, or Gayant, Marie, and their children Binbin, Jacquot, and Fillon in Douai, and many more.
Huh? What? You don’t know what a Géant du Nord is?
Well, it’s a benevolent hero, a legendary figure, a protector, a symbol tied to a city that parades through it, walking and dancing during carnival or the local festival. The tradition is said to have originated in Portugal in the 13th century (at least that’s where we have the first records), then we see them in the Netherlands starting in the 15th century. In the North, the oldest are Gayant and Marie of Douai (16th century), but many new ones have appeared since the 1980s with the revival of carnivals. In practice, it’s a large character (or animal figure) several meters tall; the structure is made of wicker, the body is often papier-mâché, but the head can be wood, as in Ath (lime wood), and the clothes and accessories are made of fabric, leather, and wood. The flared robe (for both male and female giants) allows one or more carriers to slip underneath to move it using only their arms, shoulders, and legs—and even make it dance! There are over 1,500 giants in Belgium and 450 in Hauts-de-France, mostly in the Nord and Pas-de-Calais departments.
In Ath, there are giants—LOTS of them! I’ve never seen so many at once. And each one is carried by only one man at a time (except for Bayard, you’ll see why later), even though the structure weighs over 100 kilos—so the carriers take turns quickly! The Ducasse of Ath and its giants have been inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2008, as part of the "Processional Giants and Dragons of Belgium and France."
What’s more, the Ducasse of Ath is remarkable for its age and local roots; a procession was first mentioned in 1399, and today the many musical groups are still local (Ath and surrounding towns). The event is extremely popular: a good part of the population is there, all generations mixed together. Everyone knows the groups, floats, and giants, and each has their favorite! Originally, religious groups paraded, illustrating episodes from the Bible or the Golden Legend. Gradually, the parade became secular and kept evolving by adding new giants, historical figures, or allegories linked to local history (Ath, Belgian Hainaut, Belgium).
Finally, the beautiful floats are all pulled by magnificent draft horses, and that’s extraordinary! The town council itself rides in fine carriages that close the parade.
To wrap up this long introduction, know that the Ducasse of Ath lasts several days, but the highlight is the highly codified procession that takes place on the 4th Sunday of August (actually, the procession passes twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon).
So, let’s go!
On this Sunday, August 26th, we’re in Ath in the early afternoon to see the procession. What a popular enthusiasm! Everyone is wearing the city’s colors (purple, yellow, and white), often with a twisted fabric necklace. Everyone is happy, smiling, from the giggling toddler to the sprightly centenarian sipping beer with her rosy-cheeked cousin and the pretty freckled blonde niece. People call out to each other, laugh, hum, and congratulate each other all around.
People start positioning themselves at strategic spots along the route—wider areas where the giants stop to perform a dance to the tunes of the brass bands accompanying them. And there are brass bands—at least one per giant and float!
The wait passes quickly in this joyful atmosphere. Suddenly, the music grows louder, and here comes the first giant at last! It’s the "two-headed eagle," with a child (a real one) sitting safely on a little chair.
Present in the procession since the late 17th century, it originally had only one head (normal, right?) and accompanied the tailors’ guild. It gained a second head during the royal visit of 1854 (go figure why!). It’s 3.30 meters tall and weighs 115 kilos (without the child). All the men you see in white are carriers taking turns.
Its dance consists of spinning the bird around—you’d think that little kid up there must be getting dizzy!
Next is the "Neapolitan fishermen’s boat." It’s a magnificent float representing a ship, with handsome sailors clinging to its rigging. This float first appeared in the parade in 1856.
It’s followed by a human giant on stilts: "Saint Christopher of Flobecq," holding a flowered staff and carrying Christ on his shoulders (this time, not a real child!). It appeared in the 19th century, then disappeared from the procession before being reintroduced in 1976.
Now here come the "Blues," dressed in French uniforms. This group is the heir of the former cannon-arquebusier company, and they punctuate their parade with gun salutes!
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far-from-exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
A little sneak peek?
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
But Bologna’s real charm lies in its porticoes, which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021: 62 km of arcades running along buildings, letting you walk sheltered from the sun or rain. Back in 1288, the city required houses to include private arcades for public use. In the city center, you can stroll under 32 km of porticoes in all sorts of styles—some plain, some ornate—with a strong presence of red tones.
Ooooooooh, giants!
Oh, how I love them! In the North, we have lots of these giants, like Reuze Papa and Reuze Maman in Cassel, or Gayant, Marie, and their children Binbin, Jacquot, and Fillon in Douai, and many more.
What’s more, the Ducasse of Ath is remarkable for its age and local roots; a procession was first mentioned in 1399, and today the many musical groups are still local (Ath and surrounding towns). The event is extremely popular: a good part of the population is there, all generations mixed together. Everyone knows the groups, floats, and giants, and each has their favorite! Originally, religious groups paraded, illustrating episodes from the Bible or the Golden Legend. Gradually, the parade became secular and kept evolving by adding new giants, historical figures, or allegories linked to local history (Ath, Belgian Hainaut, Belgium).
To wrap up this long introduction, know that the Ducasse of Ath lasts several days, but the highlight is the highly codified procession that takes place on the 4th Sunday of August (actually, the procession passes twice, once in the morning and once in the afternoon).
It’s followed by a human giant on stilts: "Saint Christopher of Flobecq," holding a flowered staff and carrying Christ on his shoulders (this time, not a real child!). It appeared in the 19th century, then disappeared from the procession before being reintroduced in 1976.
