Hi everyone,

I’m finalizing my trip starting from Namibia. When I arrive in Divundu, I’d like to head straight to the Khwai area early in the morning to one of the campsites in the Khwai Development Trust. Is the drive doable with a good 4x4 in a day? We’ll spend 2 nights in Khwai, then 2 or maybe 3 nights in the Moremi area (Third Bridge/Xakanaxa/Mboma) before heading back to Maun to wrap up our journey. Is that too much time to spend in each place?

We’d also like to do one or two boat excursions in the delta. Any suggestions for the best options and operators?

Thanks in advance for your tips and advice! Best, Patrick

Hi everyone,

Just sharing our experience from our wonderful trip for two, which we’ve just returned from. We decided to get help with the bookings from the agency Tourmaline Safaris, and everything was perfectly organized without any extra costs for the reservations. We chose to alternate nights in rooftop tents, Camping2Go (fitted tents), and guesthouses.

Flight from Paris to Windhoek with a layover in Johannesburg. 4x4 rented from Safari Car Rental—flawless. We had an official translation of our driver’s licenses, but no one asked for them during the trip. Mariental: 1 night in Camping2Go (Anib Lodge) Sersiem: 1 night in a rooftop tent (Oshana Campsite) Solitaire: 1 night in Camping2Go (Nabis Desert Lodge) Swakopmund: 2 nights in a guesthouse (The Stiltz) Spitzkoppe: 1 night in Camping2Go Omaruru: 2 nights in a rooftop tent (Omandumba Cave Camp) Etosha East: 1 night in a rooftop tent (Etosha Safari Village) Etosha West: 2 nights in a rooftop tent (Onguma Tamboti)—game drive and morning walk with them Okahandja: 1 night in Camping2Go Windhoek: 1 night at Londiningi Guesthouse Then... flight to Victoria Falls and transfer by car to Kasane for 2 nights (Water Lily Lodge), followed by a transfer to Victoria Falls for 2 nights at Phe Zulu. All transfers were arranged by Tourmaline, and they were all perfectly on time.

No logistical issues with Tourmaline Safaris, and given that our initial flight was delayed by a day, my checked luggage arrived a week late (Tourmaline arranged for the luggage to be transferred by taxi to Omaruru), and our initial Windhoek-Kasane flight was canceled by Air Botswana without explanation, we were really relieved to have the agency’s local contact to handle these unexpected issues! Delayed luggage seems to be common, but the agency had warned us, so we packed our carry-ons accordingly.

It was very cold at night (June), especially in Omaruru, but luckily we were prepared. Since it had rained a lot this season, Victoria Falls was flowing heavily! So much so that the water mist prevented us from seeing the eastern part of the falls. But a short helicopter tour gave us a better view. Be aware that the entrance fees for the falls are high (50 dollars per person) and only grant one entry—you can’t come in the morning and return in the late afternoon. We stayed from 6 AM to 3 PM in the park, taking breaks at the cafeteria, to see the falls at sunrise, at 11 AM (when the mist partially lifts), and at 3 PM (not much difference from the 11 AM view).

That’s it! A magnificent trip that left us with wonderful memories. Nothing disappointed us.

If you’d like more details, feel free to ask!

It seems like it's hard to find the book *Compagnon de Safari*, which is a guide to the wildlife of Namibia and Botswana. Actually, you can order it directly from the author, Caroline Oriol. http://guide-faune.voyage-namibie.fr/

It’s quick—you’ll get it by mail in 2 days! !

Hi there,

Here’s a quick summary of six trips across Southern Africa, covering South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and more. I traveled for a total of 23 months, over 100,000 km, and crossed 9 countries from South Africa to Tanzania. To do this, I bought an old Land Cruiser—a 1989 BJ 75 with a long chassis and a 3.4L turbo engine—which I converted into a bush camper set up for self-sufficiency in Africa: dual fuel tanks (235 L total) plus 2 x 20-liter jerry cans of diesel, 2 spare tires, a compressor, a toolbox with repair gear, a 50-liter water tank plus 2 x 30-liter and 2 x 10-liter jerry cans, a roof tent, multiple storage boxes, a sturdy roof rack, and even a paramotor. I also packed a first-aid kit and shipped the camper to South Africa by freight. My son joined me for part of the journey.

Key countries and highlights: South Africa in every direction, including its wildlife parks; in Namibia, the classics like Etosha, Fish River, Sossusvlei, Kaudum, but especially Damaraland and Kaokoland; in Botswana, a full loop of the Okavango, crossing the Makgadikgadi Pan, Moremi Park, the Linyanti River; and a tour of Zimbabwe with its national parks. During the last trip in 2020, due to COVID, we found refuge on a 250 km² Namibian farm with its own wildlife reserve. While crossing Damaraland and Kaokoland, we were completely self-sufficient, with supplies for over a month and 130 L of water.

In South Africa and Namibia, one issue that surprised us was the fences stretching for millions of kilometers along the tracks. Namibia is one and a half times the size of France but has a population of only about 2.5 million, mostly concentrated in a dozen small towns of 10,000 to 50,000 people—except for the capital, Windhoek (296,000). Paradoxically, compared to France, the space for freedom is extremely limited. Everything is private and requires payment. Even the Namib Desert is fenced... and you need a permit just to pick up a rock! For someone used to wild camping, it can get frustrating. Sometimes we ignored the rules, but the best solution is to ask a farmer (a real one, like a sheep or cattle rancher—not the ones with 3-meter electrified fences, which are lodges or private reserves) if you can camp on their land.

To truly enjoy freedom in Namibia, you need to venture into the northwest, along the Skeleton Coast, in Damaraland and Kaokoland. However, it’s essential to know your vehicle inside out, be a good mechanic, bring spare parts, and plan for potential breakdowns. Take care of your ride because a major issue out there can be a matter of survival. My motto: "Don’t break down, don’t break down, don’t break down..." Safari pros only venture into this region with two 4x4s. In Messum Crater, we met a couple waiting for rescue (thanks to a satellite device from their rental company) after their driveshaft broke. Keep in mind that in these areas, you’ll cover about 80 km in 8 hours.

Here are some of the issues we faced: a broken rear suspension leaf, several broken bolts on the front leaf springs, the spare tire mount breaking multiple times (replaced on the spot), a cracked water radiator in 1998 causing overheating and a seized valve stem in its guide, plus a bent rocker arm (field repair, valve adjustment, damaged head gasket, daily radiator refills, and a scratched cylinder—engine fully rebuilt upon return). Five roof rack mounts broke and were repaired at a technical high school in South Africa. The battery mount also broke (fixed with a steel plate found on the trail). The fuel filter clogged several times (changed or cleaned on the spot). A huge impact on the windshield from a piece of coal falling from a power plant supply truck (temporary repair with Araldite). The brake master cylinder failed in Marienfluss (repaired, seals replaced in Tsumeb). Multiple flat tires from acacia thorns. The rear door latch broke (homemade aluminum rod repair in Franschhoek). The voltmeter and ammeter failed (repaired on the spot). During the freight trip, despite locking the doors and having a partition between the front and back, someone managed to get in through the small side window, forced open the locks on two accessible storage boxes, and stole my tools (replaced later). A ball joint on the paramotor frame came loose mid-flight, damaging the wing and propeller (propeller shipped from France, homemade repair).

Health issues on the way to Tanzania: a painful sciatica and many sleepless nights (cortisone injection in Dodoma).

Kaokoland, Namibia—the northwest region: https://youtu.be/DzGepFsrnZs

Damaraland: https://youtu.be/DITQj8NvLZ4

Botswana: https://youtu.be/TEvDG0S62hg

Kaudom and Mohembo Parks: https://youtu.be/wq_Yf7jNLhw

An 80-Day Tour of Southern Africa

Back in South Africa

January 12, 2013, 5:30 AM, Flight BA043 London-Cape Town

Directly below, Windhoek glittered like a tangle of fairy lights still lit and tossed into a box.

The horizon, edged in purple, was setting up a backup fireworks display, and suddenly, like a cherry on the platter and with unbearable intensity, in less than two minutes the entire sun revealed a gray dam and then a vast, untouched massif.

A few more minutes and the glare to the east of the plane was total. In Africa, the sun is swift.

We still had a France to cross before landing, but it felt as if we were already there. To the west, the raking light revealed what looked like acne and long, swollen scars in a desert region that might be the Swartkloofberg. Further still, straight as far as the eye could see, the two parallel tracks of a dirt road.

At 11,500 meters altitude and 940 km/h, we had a sense of stillness until the Orange River appeared, an incongruous serpent, gray edged with green.

The first South African settlements were dotted with trees providing shade, then rivers highlighted by continuous lines of vegetation.

Water and shade that make life possible.

We’ll return here by the backroads.

Half an hour from Cape Town, the plane tilted toward the sea, crossing plantations (likely citrus) and then an explosion of cultivated greenery in circles on either side of an unruly river. Finally, the coastline was no longer just sand and water—a frothy hem, a suture?

A peninsula came into view, forming two magnificent bays, and... a flight attendant firmly instructed me to return to my seat: we’d arrived!

The Colors of Cape Town

The city was dressed up as I like them—deserted, fluid, free of its vendors.

In the parking lot of the endless beach next to the commercial port north of the city, about two hundred people were unloading their goods in front of their pickups or combis, none of which were from this century: mixed-race, ageless Black people, and white folks who looked like they’d stepped out of another era.

After a few minutes, intrigued, I played a game: first looking at the merchandise, then imagining who was selling it, and finally looking at who was actually manning the stall. Tall Black vendors were selling what they often sell in Europe—leather, sunglasses, watches; mixed-race folks offered discount bundles, and the tanned older white people seemed to have emptied their attics.

We left with an antique tin kettle for morning tea over an open fire, a pack of five exercise books (that’s 600 pages to fill), Bill Bryson’s earliest stories in English, some snoek rillettes (a local fish), and—never seen before—tuna biltong and snoek biltong.

In so-called advanced countries, Sunday is for sports: white cyclists dressed like pros sweating diligently, Black street vendors running in loops at red lights to sell trash bags that day; white golfers losing their balls, which a scantily clad Black man retrieves from the water; under the sails of kite surf boards, it’s all blondes, and in the foam, joyful splashes from a bunch of Black kids.

Searching for an unusual spot for lunch, we drove through the fishing port looking for a dive and, at the end of a dead-end road with no warning, we arrived at the Shimmy Beach Club—quite the program.

The place, open for just three weeks, aims to be ultra-trendy. You could be in San Francisco, Lisbon’s docks, or St. Barth. This time, the "visible" staff was diverse, but the clientele was exclusively white, except for one mixed-race couple.

For this Sunday lunch, the women had pulled out all the stops, and local starlets—who’d make ours look tame—were turning the terrace into a frenzy.

At Cape Town’s port, the girls have *port*. The trend seems to be crochet dresses over swimsuits.

For two hours, a team of employees watered and raked the sand, starting over when they finished. A child in a floaty pink dress and a gold headband, but a future adventurer, stepped onto the freshly raked artificial beach sand for the first time.

A lanky mixed-race man dragged a hose across the ground, followed by a white woman—enchanted?—who then started watering the sand herself, carelessly splashing the glass terrace her colleague had just swept. I suspect a tacit work arrangement to keep everyone employed.

A galleon packed with tourists (are there any in the hold? Does it take tourists to Robben Island?) left the port. A helicopter took off in its wake. Trawlers returned, cutting through a ballet of catamarans, their waterlines well above the water: a bad catch.

If there’s one country where you can’t pretend to ignore skin color, it’s this one. The question is in everyone’s mind, and here more than anywhere else, it’s a decisive economic and political factor.

Columbine of Brittany

200 km north of Cape Town and 9,000 km south of the Breton coast, but on the same cold ocean, we camped on the shore of the Columbine Cape Nature Reserve, sheltered by a rocky chaos that, at first light tomorrow, would transport us to Perros-Guirec.

Our first encounter with wild animals wouldn’t end well for them: it was crayfish season, and they were the size of lobsters at Lorient’s fish market. Bought for R60 (5.5 €) a pair from kids in Pater Noster, they’d end up between two rocks, over a fire. But first, we had to pair the Chenin blanc with some snoek biltong.

With no wood, I lit a fire at dawn with dried seaweed and kelp, as if petrified; it gave off a smell of court-bouillon and... tires. Two hundred fathoms away, on an outpost, an army of cormorants stood at attention, unmoved among the frolicking seals.

At the reserve’s exit, the guard spoke French; Patrick Mwanba had arrived from Congo three years earlier to study, but the cost of living here forced him to drop out. He’d like to return home because life is cheaper there, but the war made him hesitate.

Ding ding dong! Vroom! Arf arf, Woof! Buzz! (A night from hell!)

I’d long planned to visit Calvinia, the center of a region known for extensive sheep farming. An excellent provincial museum, run by an enthusiastic curator, kept us too late to start the drive north.

So we camped in a tiny, charming campsite set up in the garden of a house. A few trees, a patch of resilient grass, and a view of a pretty lit-up steeple—what else?

Well, it turned out to be a sound-and-light show, with the pretty steeple chiming the hours and half-hours. Then suddenly, we were in the VIP stands of the Karoo-Kalahari Truck Race: roaring trucks paraded under our canvas windows, and we realized we were on the main road through town. To top it off, we enjoyed an uninterrupted canine cacophony, from the *arf arf* of little dogs to the *woof* of a mastiff. Oh, and some mosquitoes—the first ones—insisted on keeping us company in the tent, and we hadn’t yet bought the arsenal to neutralize them.

I walked through Calvinia at night; the house gardens weren’t fenced, nor did they have the «Armed Response» signs so common in the country.

The Kalahari Trails

(No, no, I haven’t converted to hiking.)

North of Calvinia, in the south of the Northern Cape, small towns follow one another up to Upington, about a hundred kilometers apart—welcome havens. Between them, with no trees in sight, we stopped in the shade of a motionless cloud: the temperature exceeded 40°C in mid-January.

We were almost out of the High Karoo and into a region of pans drying up, until the first red dunes appeared, precursors of the Kalahari. In the sparse veld vegetation, gatherings of quiver trees in the kopjes, and a caravan of camels without a handler or packs, marching in perfect formation across a pan (no, I hadn’t overdone the Windhoek at the last stop, and no, I wasn’t dehydrated enough to hallucinate).

The historic part of these towns, European in style, was built on the same plans as those in the American Midwest or the Australian Outback: a grid of streets wide enough to turn a wagon pulled by eight pairs of oxen. The architecture was Dutch-inspired, tropicalized with awnings.

Then came more recent housing, functional in style, where the wealthier mixed-race people—who make up the majority of this state—lived, and further on, the township, an assemblage of corrugated iron and plastic, like everywhere else.

Orange, Right Bank

North of Augrabies Falls National Park, on the other side of the Orange River, stretches a rugged and wild territory the size of fifty Groix islands, crisscrossed by a few tracks—the Riemvasmaak.

The inhabitants were driven out half a century ago for a military base, and as soon as President Mandela was elected, he made it a symbol by allowing the exiled populations to return. Several ethnic groups live here on almost nothing, in government-built shacks.

A community camp is set up in a small cirque at the end of a canyon that, while not in the history books, offers a good descent. By mid-afternoon, the air was at 44°C, but luckily there was a spring... except it was a hot spring, with water at 38°C. And they haven’t invented a reversible spring yet. Once the birds and baboons had settled in, in absolute silence and far from any light pollution, we enjoyed the stars like nowhere else (well, that’s what they claim in the region).

The Orange didn’t choose the easy path: arriving from Lesotho, it was almost at the ocean. The terrain to the south and north of this massif seemed easier to cross. Was it to avoid the curse of the Okavango, whose waters disappear into the sands without ever seeing the sea, that it chose this rocky route, thinking that at least the granite wouldn’t steal its water?

I Love You, I Eat You

In the dry bed of the Auob, it lay panting, head raised, alert, between its paws but head-to-tail, a tawny springbok, motionless.

A few minutes earlier, their story had been written in a lightning-fast chase, captured in photos by the driver of the car that alerted us.

It would be a long time before it started eating at the groin without breaking its surveillance.

Earlier, there was a lion lounging in the shade and hundreds of antelopes: springboks and gemsboks (oryx) in herds, hartebeests and steenboks alone. Strange pairs, apart several times, formed by a springbok and a gemsbok.

A few solitary jackals moved slightly sideways, looking furtive. Ostriches, alone, looking a bit dazed.

It was a lucky morning in the Kgalagadi (KTP).

In and Out

Kgalagadi, Nossob Camp.

We were at the very end of the almost-empty camp, ten meters from the fence, whose structure wouldn’t resist an elephant (though there aren’t any here), but it was electrified.

At dusk, on the other side, ten meters away, three lions passed in a row, as if on parade, seemingly focused on their goal and indifferent to the camp, though they glanced at it.

A jackal had gotten into the camp and was trying to get out without success while scavenging. I offered it two pieces of snoek biltong (Don’t feed the animals!) from three meters away—it smelled strong and had bones (bones in biltong!). When it passed by again, it sniffed but didn’t dare approach. Curled up in the chair, motionless, by the faint moonlight, I finally saw it come closer, grab the nearest piece, and move ten meters away to enjoy it (how many jackals know the finer points of sea biltong?). A little reassured, it came back for the second piece.

Another Morning

By morning, the jackal was gone, but our luck hadn’t left us. Two cheetahs again, who found me in the way and slowly moved toward a calmer shadow. Enough birds of prey to form a squadron, but they’re solitary hunters. Two ostriches busy with their dozen unruly chicks. And while we’re at it, a group of four Kalahari lions, sprawled under a thorny bush. Lots of oryx crossing the dunes and herds of red hartebeest. Kori bustards and secretary birds.

It was the first time the Kgalagadi had spoiled us so much.

Hi there, We’re planning a trip to Namibia in the summer of 2026 and want to rent a 4x4 with a roof-top tent. After reading a lot of posts on the topic, I’m still not sure which rental companies are truly reliable these days... We found a vehicle at a reasonable price from Africa Camper, but the online reviews are mixed. Has anyone had a good or bad experience with this company? Thanks so much! Martine

Hey everyone,

I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.

I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.

My highlights in Zimbabwe would be: - Hwange - Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona) - Mana Pools - Harare - Gonarezhou - Great Zimbabwe

But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.

Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?

Hello,

I’m reaching out because I’ve already read tons of info from other forums (thanks a million, by the way!) and blogs, but now I’m overwhelmed with details and have so many questions. I’m really hoping you can help us figure this out! Here’s the plan: We’re leaving France for Senegal in our camper van (with two kids, aged 4 and 7), then shipping the van to South Africa before heading to Namibia. We’re planning to leave this summer and should arrive in South Africa in early September. The goal is to reach Réunion by early December, which gives us 3 months to explore Southern Africa. Originally, we wanted to pick up the van in Cape Town, head up to Namibia, and visit the main parks and iconic spots, then go north to Botswana (Etosha Park) and Zimbabwe (Victoria Falls) before heading back down to South Africa to enjoy the milder temperatures while exploring the country. But now we’re wondering how to get back to South Africa. We’ve come up with three options: - Head back down through Botswana: I’ve read everywhere that Botswana isn’t recommended for kids under 6 (most parks) because it can be potentially dangerous—few enclosures for animals (even though we have a camper van with "secure" beds), and the agencies we’ve contacted don’t recommend it. Plus, southern Botswana is tough to navigate in a camper van. - Return from central Botswana (Maun) to Windhoek and drive back to Cape Town via Namibia. - Cross Zimbabwe and potentially Mozambique to head down to Kruger Park and Johannesburg.

Anyone familiar with this region have any recommendations?

Also, is it necessary to book accommodations in advance? Is that only required in certain countries (maybe Botswana/Zimbabwe)? We’d like a mix of camping and lodges.

All advice is welcome!

Hi everyone, This update was shared on June 26: The Department of Wildlife and National Parks in Botswana, under the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, has announced temporary route closures in the renowned Moremi Game Reserve due to seasonal flooding from the Okavango Delta. The detour at the Fourth Bridge is currently submerged, and as a result, the Third Bridge via Xakanaxa has also become inaccessible. For visitor safety, both routes are temporarily closed. Nature is absolutely stunning right now, but unfortunately, this also means that exploration plans might be disrupted if you’ve booked in the area. Any updates on the situation are welcome. Have a great day! Ortense

Hello, we’re starting this discussion to share our project and get a little help.

We’re French and passionate about Southern Africa. For over twenty years, we’ve taken several trips to South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, and Zambia, always traveling independently and on the move. In 2009, we took a sabbatical and spent eight months in Southern Africa. To do this, we bought a vehicle in South Africa, with the help of a Frenchman living there who guided us through the registration and insurance process. Unfortunately, he has since passed away.

Now, we’d like to spend several months a year in Southern Africa, mainly in Botswana, South Africa, and Namibia, but also in Zambia and Zimbabwe.

We’d like to buy a 4x4, either already equipped or to be outfitted, but we’re not sure where it’s best to buy it: South Africa, Namibia, or Botswana?

We’re looking for someone who can help us with the registration and insurance process (we’re not bilingual, on top of everything!). Do you have any contacts you could recommend? We’d appreciate any information or recommendations to help us with our project.

We’re also looking for a rental or guesthouse in Johannesburg for November 2025, run by French speakers or people who speak French.

Once we’re there, the question of the 90-day tourist visa will come up. Apparently, it’s no longer possible to leave the territory for a few days and re-enter. We’re considering applying for a Retired Person Visa. However, the process from France seems complicated: no response from the South African embassy in Paris or from Botswana… So, we’re thinking of looking into it directly once we’re there.

Thank you so much for your help. Pedro Lyon (France)

Hi everyone, We're heading out again for a little road trip through South Africa, Botswana, and Namibia. Quick question: we're leaving from Midrand, taking the N14 to Vryburg, then heading toward the McCarthy's Border crossing. After that, we want to reach the Mabuasehube Gate. The question is, how long does it take to get from Midrand to the Mabuasehube Gate? We plan to make one stop near Vryburg to fill up on drinks and snacks. Thanks in advance for your replies, especially if anyone's done this route before! JP M

After crossing South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, and covering 8,496 km in a camper van—including 1,500 km of dirt roads!!—we invite you to check out our photo albums. https://sites.google.com/site/photosvoyagega59/albums-photos/2018-southern-africa

It was an amazing trip, especially because of the wildlife we saw roaming freely in the parks. The landscapes were also stunning and varied across the different countries we visited: bush, deserts, sand dunes, the bushveld, mountain regions, coastal areas, canyons, and more...

We also had wonderful encounters with diverse populations and ethnic groups: Zulu, Xhosa, Afrikaners, Bushmen, Himba, Herero, Bantu, and others... For more info, visit our site: https://sites.google.com/site/nosperiples/2018-southern-africa-1

Hello everyone, I’m in the planning stages for a trip to Botswana in October 2025. This will be an extension of my trip to Namibia in January 2025. Of course, I have a lot of questions!

First one: For day trips visiting Botswana’s parks in a self-drive setup, do I need accommodation *inside* the parks? Is it possible to visit them on a day-trip basis, like in Kruger Park or Etosha?

Thanks in advance for your answers! Have a great day!

This three-week trip to Namibia was a big first for us: - Visiting a country in winter, for someone who starts feeling comfortable at 25°C (77°F). - Camping, when we usually feel at home in a starred hotel. - Sleeping on the roof of a car—what an idea... when a comfy bed is waiting just a bit further. - Grocery shopping, cooking, doing the dishes... all the things we usually avoid to fully enjoy our vacation. - Washing up when and how we can, when we can’t imagine going a day without a shower. - Driving a big 4x4 on the left, with a manual transmission, when we usually opt for an automatic for more comfort.

Yep! You guessed it—we stepped way out of our comfort zone during this trip.

I had quite a few doubts while planning this adventure, but the more I read travel journals about Namibia, the more I wanted to go.

Personally, without this forum, I never would’ve dared to hit the Namibian roads in a 4x4. I was really anxious during the planning, so I want to thank everyone who contributed with their journals and forum discussions for helping me leave more peacefully.

At first, I wasn’t even considering sleeping in a tent. But after my husband’s persuasion—and my own curiosity to experience what I’d read in those travel journals—I gave in. So off we went in a double-cab Hilux with a rooftop tent.

And of course, let’s talk about me—the big cold-weather wimp. One of the biggest pre-trip challenges was choosing a sleeping bag. After a while, sleeping bags had no more secrets for me: temperature ratings (comfort, limit, extreme), shapes (mummy, rectangular), fillings (synthetic, down), compression rate, and weight... all these factors were a real puzzle. In the end, to make sure I wouldn’t be put off camping in winter (Australian winter, mind you), I went for a sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -10°C. And just to be *extra* sure I wouldn’t get cold, I bought a liner (never knew what that was before) in Thermolite, which boosts the sleeping bag’s temperature by 11°C. There are liners that add up to 15°C, but let’s not exaggerate—we’re not heading to the North Pole! My husband, on the other hand, got a sleeping bag with a -5°C comfort rating and a silk liner.

Was it enough? You’ll find out soon. In the meantime, another big thank you to everyone who helped me make this choice with their advice and experience.

Over a year in advance, we planned a three-week itinerary for our first trip to Namibia—classic route, nothing too out there. We chose to do the circuit clockwise because we wanted to finish on a high note in Etosha and its wildlife. They say it’s like Noah’s Ark out there! And why not, the cherry on top... some big cats.

We used Tourmaline’s services to book our accommodations and the 4x4.

Here’s our planned itinerary with campsites and lodgings—yes, there are a few solid roofs in there; we didn’t want to push it too far.

Day 1: Windhoek – Windhoek Gardens Guesthouse Day 2: Kalahari Anib Campsite Day 3: Namibrand Family Hideout Day 4: Sesriem Camp Day 5: Sesriem Camp Day 6: Rostock Ritz Camp Day 7: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 8: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 9: Spitzkoppe Camp Tented Day 10: Brandberg White Lady Campsite Day 11: Grootberg Lodge Day 12: Opuwo Country Campsite Day 13: Epupa Camp Day 14: Hobatere Lodge Day 15: Etosha Olifantsrus Camp Day 16: Etosha Okaukuejo Camp Day 17: Etosha Halali Camp Day 18: Etosha Namutoni Camp Day 19: Cheetah Eco Lodge Day 20: Windhoek – Londiningi B&B



Alright! Are you ready to follow this adventure with us in our Hilux?

We’ve been back for a month now, so it’s high time I posted the story of our adventures! 😉 I’d also like to thank everyone who shared their own experiences on this forum (or elsewhere) and gave us tips—it really helped us plan our trip.

14/09/2019: Johannesburg - Vryburg After months of waiting and reading other travelers’ journals, it’s finally our turn! We arrived in Johannesburg from Nantes and Paris in the morning. We looked for the Bushlore rep—we’d rented our 4x4 from them—but there was no sign with our name! « Bushlore? She’s a woman, I saw her a few minutes ago, » someone told us. A minute later, the Bushlore employee showed up: a man! 🤪 He sped onto the highway, and just 30 minutes later, we arrived at the rental place. It’s a big operation with good organization and lots of vehicles—pretty reassuring. Our 4x4 was there, a classic Toyota Hilux fully equipped for safari: rooftop tent, dual diesel tanks, 60-liter water reserve, two batteries, two spare tires, all the camping gear, plus everything needed for *désensablement* (getting unstuck from sand). Speaking of which, is it "désensablage" or "désensablement"? Best to just avoid getting stuck in the first place! 😏 Good news… or not: the vehicle was brand new, with barely 100 kilometers on the odometer. On one hand, we figured we wouldn’t have mechanical issues or a fridge breakdown, but on the other, we knew it wouldn’t be easy to return it without a single scratch. Either way, it was our first time renting a 4x4, and we were impressed.



We set off toward Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park—it’s not exactly around the corner! In 1994 (when Mandela had just become President) and 2007, during our two previous trips to South Africa, we loved this park, so we couldn’t imagine going to Botswana without returning. The road was pretty monotonous, with not much to see except a few ostriches.







We stopped for the night in Vryburg at the Kameelboom Lodge campsite. It was a bit noisy since it’s close to the road, and the facilities weren’t great, but it was fine for one night.

Saturday, September 22, 2018 This morning, we woke up at dawn at 6:00 AM. Headed to Letlhakeng, the last town where we could fill up on fuel before starting our crossing of the Kalahari. Our consumption since Johannesburg has been 11L/100 km. We took the direction of Khutse Game Reserve, whose entrance is about a hundred kilometers north of Letlhakeng. Access is via a gravel road along which we saw magnificent pink trees.









At Khutse Gate, we registered in the entry log and paid the access fees for 6 days: 120 Pulas/day/person and 50 Pulas/day/vehicle. Our stays at the Xaka and Deception Valley campsites had been reserved by our tour operator but not paid, contrary to what they’d told us. So we settled the 2 unpaid days of camping at 30 Pulas/day/person. The park rangers informed us that the southern triangle of Khutse Game Reserve, with its tip at Moreswe Pan, had burned. Note that these two campsites are government-run, which explains the low prices. Private campsites cost ten to fifteen times more. We headed to Khutse campsite, site 5. To enter the parks, you must have a reservation either at a lodge or a campsite. Since the number of spots in the campsites is limited, this means you have to book well in advance. We ate the salad we’d prepared the night before at our campsite. It was very hot—39°C. We made a round trip to Khankhe Pan. On the track, we encountered three South African cars, one of which was stuck in the sand and blocking the way. We helped push the car to get it unstuck. We saw very few animals at Khankhe Pan. We returned to the campsite, which has dry toilets and a shower you have to supply with your own water. We tried out the shower.











We witnessed our first Kalahari sunset. These sunsets are unmatched, and that didn’t change throughout the trip.



During the trip, we followed the solar rhythm—waking up at 6:00 AM, having dinner at sunset around 6:30 PM, and retiring to our tents by 8:30 PM.

Sunday, September 23, 2018 Up at 6:00 AM. It was 15°C. We were cold last night. Tonight, we’ll use blankets in addition to our sleeping bags. We headed southwest and, past Gwian Pan, turned northwest toward the Molose waterhole, where we saw our first elephants and our first raptor. Indeed, on the track leading to the Molose waterhole, we could see the traces of the massive fire that had ravaged the southern part of Khutse, as the park rangers had warned us.





Our first braai at Khankhe campsite.

Hi, I’m planning a trip to Namibia for 3 weeks in November: should I take malaria prophylaxis, which medication, when to take it, and are there any side effects? At the end of my trip, I’ll spend 5 days up north near the Angolan border and in Etosha National Park. Thanks for sharing your travel tips and advice! Martine

April 11 – Day 1

It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather, A season that only exists in the southwest of America, I remember very well what I told you that morning A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago... We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...

Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!



To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"



As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...

Hi everyone, I’m just back from my first overland trip with a vehicle + tent, covering northern Namibia all the way to the Okavango Delta (18 days). In short: - The road between Shakawe and Sehithwa is no longer really a road—it’s more like a gravel and sand track (a very long, exhausting stretch) for over 100 km. - Info about the planned route, i.e., from South Gate to Third Bridge campsite, is scarce and unreliable. First Bridge is in good condition, a detour has been set up for Second Bridge, but you quickly end up facing a pretty impressive ford, especially if it’s your first time driving in the area. We found ourselves with several vehicles testing the possibilities and diving into a rather deep “pond” (around 60-70 cm). When we arrived at Third Bridge campsite, we were strongly advised against continuing as planned to Xakanaxa to reach Khwai, where we had a reservation for several nights. Many travelers have gotten stuck—some even at night (?!)—and had to be towed out. So, we had to retrace our steps the next morning along the same sandy track, sometimes with very deep sand, and it took quite a while (about 4 hours one way, a little less on the return since we’d gotten the hang of it). Everything went well in the end: no damage, no getting stuck, but some intense moments crossing the fords. I’ll admit I’m pretty proud of how I handled it—it’s still quite intimidating. But the cherry on top? We were greeted by lions almost every day. Ortense

Hey everyone! Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced? For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person. Thanks in advance!

Namibia raises park fees by 86 to 100 percent

Hello everyone, We came back enchanted from our first trip to Namibia and we're already thinking of going back. We did the classics: Etosha, Twyfelfontein, Sossusvlei, Deadvlei... Our guide suggests doing the Caprivi Strip over 10 days, alternating 2 nights in a lodge and 2 nights in a tent. Given that we love landscapes but especially wildlife observation, I wonder if after spending 4 nights in Etosha and having visited Botswana twice, Caprivi offers different animals to see and if the wildlife is generally abundant. The videos I've seen online don't really captivate me. It seems quite similar to the Okavango Delta. What do you think? Are there other circuits we should prioritize? Both in our seventies, we prefer staying mainly in lodges. Thanks in advance to those who can give us advice

Hello, We’re a couple in our seventies planning a 12-day trip to Namibia this coming September. We have a Visa Premier card. In your opinion, should we take out additional travel insurance like Europ Assistance or Chapka? We don’t want to repeat our bad experience in 2020: we’d taken out insurance with Allianz (over 500 € for 11 days). Our trip to Botswana was canceled due to COVID-19, and they were quick to cite the "epidemic" exclusion to refuse reimbursement. Just to clarify: the flights will be with Lufthansa, departing from Luxembourg. Thanks in advance to anyone who can give us some advice!

Well, here goes—I’m taking the plunge. This is my first blog on VF, so I hope I don’t make too many blunders. In advance, you’ll have to excuse me because they’ll definitely happen anyway Here’s the context of our trip: - Project started: December 2015 ... yeah, that’s a while ago - Family of 4: 2 adults, 1 teen (17) and a 10-year-old boy - First trip to Southern Africa

Originally, we’d planned to go to Namibia. But after watching a TV documentary, we took a slight detour to the right and ended up in Botswana 🙂 Don’t worry, we’ll still do Namibia—just a bit later. It’s definitely not off the table. Quite the opposite!!

After that big decision, the question was: "Should we go alone or with an agency?" Through my son, who’s into music, we were lucky enough to meet some VF members who love Botswana: Marygabrielle and Yves (I won’t name-drop, but you know who you are). They were amazing and helped us with every aspect of our trip. We can’t thank them enough 😉 So, I didn’t even need to ask VF for all my questions 😛

For a first time in Southern Africa, and especially for Botswana, they easily convinced us to use a small local agency for at least part of the tour we wanted to do. After multiple conversations online—and thanks to Marygabrielle acting as our translator (our English is *terrible* )—our itinerary was finalized, and ... we ended up spending our entire vacation with this local agency:

Letsatsi Safaris (email for those interested: letsatsisafaris@gmail.com, website: www.letsatsisafarilodge.com, phone: +267 71692093/71351892) Joe and William (the owners) are brothers and true Batswana.

Since Marygabrielle and Yves knew them well, we set off with them in complete confidence. Everything was planned and paid for in advance, so all we had to do was relax once we arrived. Pure bliss for me—real vacation time without having to prepare meals 😛 and being able to fully enjoy everything. Everything was included: guides (them, in this case), accommodation (mostly in tents), and a cook. All we had to do was help set up and take down the tents. Indiana Jones better watch out—we’re going camping in the wild too 🙂 A dream come true!

Of course, there’s an extra cost compared to traveling solo. But this time, we splurged, and we don’t regret that choice at all.

They were all fantastic—professional, friendly—and it was a huge joy for us. We had an amazing time thanks to them. A big thank you to Joe, William, and all their staff we met: Jonah, Junien, and Doris.

Now, time for the story!

Before Our Departure Preparing for this trip started 9 months before our departure in June. For those planning a similar itinerary, it’s important to book accommodations well in advance, especially in the Okavango and Savuti campsites—otherwise, you might not find any availability.

Introduction After visiting Zambia three years ago and Namibia and western Botswana a year and a half ago, this year we chose Zimbabwe (Hwange NP) and the northern half of Botswana. Our flight from Paris was to Victoria Falls with Ethiopian Airlines, with a layover in Addis Ababa. We rented a 4x4 from Bushlore in Kasane, complete with two rooftop tents since there are four of us on this adventure. Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4 and, most importantly, gave us a rundown of the vehicle and its equipment. Pay close attention to what they tell you—it could be crucial if something goes wrong, as it did for us during the trip.

Our Itinerary We arrived on June 12th at noon. At Victoria Falls Airport, we got our double-entry visa right away—I’d already pre-booked it online on the site https://www.evisa.gov.zw/. Since our vehicle was in Botswana, we had to cross the border from Victoria Falls into Botswana for the first time. The next morning, Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4. After completing the formalities, we headed toward Zimbabwe and the town of Victoria Falls. We woke up early the next morning to be at Victoria Falls at sunrise. The scenery was stunning, but since it was the start of the dry season, the Zambezi was still high, so the falls had a strong flow. This made it hard to fully appreciate their beauty. In the early afternoon, we left for Hwange NP, where we stayed for 4 days. Two days at Gwango campsite near Dete, followed by two days at Robins Camp. We expected to see more animals at Robins, but that wasn’t the case. In Hwange, we didn’t spot any predators, but we did see plenty of mammals (buffalo, elephants, giraffes, zebras, and antelopes). After a few days in Zimbabwe, we crossed back into Botswana at Pandamatenga. We stopped at Nata Lodge for a good night’s rest—driving on the dirt roads is exhausting. We left Nata and headed toward Nxai Pan. The road was sandy but manageable. We made a small detour to admire some beautiful baobabs at "Baines Baobabs." Then we continued to our campsite, Nxai Pan South Camp. Keep in mind that many campsites in Botswana aren’t fenced (except for the shower/toilet areas), so animals can roam freely within the camp. Take precautions, especially after dark. After our stop in Nxai Pan, we headed to Maun. We decided to break our journey in Maun before heading to Moremi and the Okavango Delta for three reasons: first, we needed to stock up on supplies and fuel for the next 5 days; second, our fridge had broken (luckily, Bushlore has a branch in Maun); and third, the drive from Nxai to our camp in Xakanaxa in the delta would’ve taken too long. I always avoid driving after dark. We arrived at our Xakanaxa camp on June 21st in the early afternoon. Not wanting to waste time, we booked a boat ride on the Okavango Delta, leaving at 4:00 PM for a 2-hour sunset cruise. For those interested, to the right of the Xakanaxa X1 site, there’s a sign for boat rides. The organizer is very professional and offers prices that are nothing like those of the lodges. It was a beautiful ride through the delta with a stunning sunset. Being on a boat is much more relaxing than driving on the dirt roads. That didn’t stop us from doing self-drive safaris the next morning and late afternoon, though.

Then came the time to leave the delta and head toward Savuti, a much drier region. And that’s when the toughest part of our trip began. First, we decided to go up via Khwai. The rainy season was over, but the area was still marshy. We had to cross a few small water patches, testing the depth to make sure we could get through. Luckily, a sign on the road pointed us toward a drier route. We reached Khwai without any issues, but then we made a major mistake. Instead of taking the main track toward Mababe Gate to reach Savuti Camp, we took a straight path north and then a right turn to get to our camp. Bad call—we got stuck in the sand, with one rear wheel buried halfway and a front wheel off the ground. We were genuinely scared we wouldn’t get out, especially since we were on a deserted track, 20 kilometers from our destination, with night falling in two hours. This is where paying attention to the vehicle instructions really paid off—we had to use the jack to get out of the mess. The result: we arrived at Savuti campsite just before dark (Distance: 146.3 km, Duration: 9 hours, 56 minutes, and 3 seconds, Average speed: 14.7 km/h, tracked with Osmand). At reception, the staff couldn’t understand how we’d gotten there—we hadn’t passed through any of Savuti’s reserve entry gates.

The next morning, no one felt like driving, so we did a game drive with a guide. I don’t know if it was some kind of reward, but the outing was amazing. We saw three lions and, best of all, a pack of African wild dogs that we had time to admire and photograph. The next day, we did a short self-drive and found one of the lions from the day before drinking at a waterhole. That was the end of our Savuti adventure.

Now we’re heading to Kasane. We returned our vehicle and settled in for our last two nights there. The next morning, since we no longer had a car, we decided to do one last early-morning game drive in Chobe NP. It turned out great—we followed two brother lions and saw plenty of other mammals. The only downside of Chobe is the number of tourists, which was a change from the other parks we’d visited. That said, we’re tourists too, so... In the evening, we took one last boat ride on the Chobe River to end on a high note with a beautiful sunset.

After a good night’s sleep and plenty of wonderful memories, landscapes, animals, and emotions, it was time to leave. We left early in the morning with the same taxi company as before to cross the border into Zimbabwe one last time and head to the airport, where we took off to return to France.

Happy New Year 2026! We’re planning a trip to Botswana. Thanks in advance for your tips on getting from Maun to Kasane (or the other way around) by road (taxi or rental car) or by air. Is it possible by road? If so, which route is best? And by air, what do you think of Air Botswana? Mackair seems really expensive to us. Best regards

I’m just starting to plan our trip for late August 2026, but I’ve read multiple times that campsite bookings need to be made *way* in advance if we want to secure a spot—especially in the parks. Before I get too far into my road book, I’d love to get a sense of what “way in advance” actually means.

That leads to another question: what’s the best *channel* for making these reservations? Can I find a list of campsites online?

From what I’ve gathered, there aren’t any fenced campsites—is wild camping allowed?

I’ll admit, I’m short on time, and reading a few threads here has shown me how quick and helpful the experts are 😉.

We’re a group of 4 and plan to rent a 4x4. Rooftop tents seem like the better option given the wildlife (and, well, *people* roaming freely), especially compared to Namibia (which we visited in 2018).

Thanks in advance to everyone!

Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Namibia in 2026. I’m torn between visiting the Fish River Canyon and the Caprivi Strip / Victoria Falls. I’d also love your advice on the best time to travel for wildlife viewing and pleasant weather. I haven’t chosen a tour operator yet... since I’m traveling solo, I’d prefer a small-group escorted trip. Has anyone traveled with a local agency and what’s your feedback or advice? Thanks so much!

For the kids and/or for us, do you have any good book recommendations for identifying and learning about the animals of Namibia (or Southern Africa)?

Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long. To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later. We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.

We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.

I'm looking for reviews on the 4x4 rental company Britz, as we're planning to rent a vehicle from them next October. Thanks for any feedback—good or bad! Or even recommendations for other rental companies you've dealt with...