Before I begin, I’d like to thank Michèle Buisson and her "Misha’s travel journals," which really helped me plan this trip. It’s tough to find information about this part of India, which is quite different from the "more traditional India." I’m so grateful to her for introducing me to a family who hosted me for 4 nights and 3 days. I can’t wait to return the favor and welcome you all to my place in early July!

Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.



I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!



Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.

Friday, April 18 Night in Guwahati Before leaving the guesthouse, I drop off a small bag that I’ll pick up when I return. I take a tuk-tuk at 7:40 AM to get to the sumo departure point for Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya. My bag is loaded onto the roof, my seat is assigned, and we have to wait for the car to fill up.



While waiting, I watch the street come to life. I have fun photographing the different modes of transport passing by.









Time passes faster when you’re occupied. We leave at 8:20 AM, and the driver does door-to-door service along the way. We make our first stop for 25 minutes at 9:10 AM, then another for breakfast at 10:10 AM. The scenery is very different from Assam and Nagaland. We drive alongside a pine forest and a large lake. There are beautiful viewpoints, but the driver isn’t stopping for sightseeing, so I have to settle for looking through the car windows.

We finally arrive in Shillong at 11:45 AM. The driver stops in the middle of nowhere, so I have to walk up the street to find a taxi. I flag one down, and he agrees to take me to my new guesthouse, the Rockski Boutique Bed & Breakfast. No sooner do I arrive than a storm with a heavy downpour welcomes me. When I arrived in Guwahati at the end of October, I’d booked a guide with a car for this week. There’s no public transport to get from village to village, so I had to take a car to visit. The tourism manager, Sachin, sent me a message to let me know that the driver, Welbis, will pick me up tomorrow morning at 8 AM. The temperature is much cooler here—only 19°C. At 2:30 PM, the rain stops, and I take the opportunity to explore the city. I start with the cathedral. Today is Good Friday, so I’m going to see how it’s celebrated here. Meghalaya is a Catholic state. The cathedral isn’t far from the guesthouse—it’s huge and all blue.



I arrive during mass, and it’s impossible to enter—the faithful are numerous outside in the parking lot. Giant screens broadcast the ceremony.

Hello, We’ve already traveled to India twice before, but only for two-week stretches (2013, a loop from Mumbai including Hampi, and in 2019, Tamil Nadu). This time, we’re leaving at the end of October for nearly three months of travel—something completely new for us! We’ll arrive in Delhi and depart from Bangalore. Our goal is to explore Northern India and then head down to Kerala, taking a maximum of one flight and prioritizing trains.

Traveling for this long should let us plan longer stops to slow down the pace and fully enjoy our trip...

What are the places you’ve loved with this in mind? I’ve already thought of Gokarna... Do you have any other suggestions, especially in Northern India? Thanks in advance for your tips!

My train to Mathura is at 2 PM, and we’ll arrive an hour late—all good. I booked a hotel on booking, but unfortunately, it’s really far from the ghats. Walking there is out of the question—what a shame. The hotel itself is fine, and there are several restaurants right across the street, which will be handy for dinner. This won’t be an exception, though—starting at 10 PM, they must wake up because I can hear them talking loudly, and music is playing along. My room faces the entrance, so it’s going to be tough. At midnight, I ask them to lower the volume, but they don’t listen. By 1 AM, I lose my temper, and this time, everything stops. Finally, I can get some sleep—until 4 AM, when they start up again for a little while before quiet returns until 6 AM. But when do they sleep? The noise never seems to bother them—it’s unbelievable, and I’m finding it harder and harder to tolerate. It makes a huge difference. The next morning, as I leave, they tell me they’ll give me another room for the following night. Oh, two nights like that wouldn’t be possible—I’m exhausted. I head out to explore the ghats and take a rickshaw, which I share with a family, to Vrindavan, a city of temples dedicated to Krishna. I visit several while wandering through the lively streets, surrounded by a crowd of devotees. By 1 PM, I’m near the Bankey Bihari Temple, but I can’t go in—it just closed. Nearby, there are restaurants, so I take the opportunity to grab my usual aloo paratha with a lassi.





The work women do here is incredibly hard, and their pay must be miserable.



I want to leave Vrindavan for Govardhan. Two young guys on a motorcycle in front of the temple approach me, and the driver offers to take me part of the way. I’m pretty skeptical, but he insists, and I eventually agree. I didn’t fully understand what was happening. Once on the bike, his friend hops on too, and suddenly I’m sandwiched between them for a multi-kilometer ride—*travel Indian-style*. We quickly drop off the friend, and I breathe easier for the rest of the trip. At an intersection, he stops—Govardhan is straight ahead, but to get to his village, he needs to turn right. We wait for the bus for a few minutes, and he flags it down so I can hop on and continue my journey. What an adventure.





the neighbor with its beautiful dome.

Hi there! 🙂

We’re heading to Sri Lanka for 23 days in January 2027—there are four of us—and we’ll wrap up the trip with 5 days in Mumbai. Our itinerary is coming together, but what do you think? (We can’t change the dates since our flights are already booked.)

We still have one night to slot in, and I’ve tentatively planned it in Tangalle, though it was a bit random. Would it make more sense to place it at a different stop? Or is there an intermediate stop I might be missing?

I’ve got accommodations sorted everywhere except Mumbai—it’s a nightmare (either way too expensive or really dodgy). By default, we’ve spotted the Residency Hotel Fort, but 70 € a night (with a discount) for a hotel that doesn’t offer anything special in India?!

Thanks so much for your help!

Hey there, forum friends 😉

Some of you have mentioned missing the activity on this Indian "page," so let’s try to liven things up a bit—with joy and good vibes (mandatory with me 😜). Plus, it’ll make Jojoone happy 😊.

As big lovers of India—we’ve been six times—my co-traveler husband and I decided to explore Rajasthan this time around. The reason we waited so long to come here? We were dreading the tourist crowds in this state. But thanks to the timing (late March to early April 2024, which is starting to get pretty hot) and Aleph’s great tips, we were *very* far from mass tourism.

We spent three weeks getting around on our own for transport: mostly taxis and trains.

And I’ll admit, we had a rather "Arabian Nights" experience, far from the "real" India (Marien, if you’re reading this 😉). So this travel journal makes no claims other than to share what we saw, experienced, and felt—with all our ignorance about this country (which I’m fully aware of).

But fair warning: I go overboard with emojis, and this journal is super casual because it’s the one I share, almost in "live" mode, with our loved ones.

So, if you’re here, consider yourself almost part of the family 😄.

See you soon and....

Hi there,

I’m thinking of heading to Tamil Nadu and Karnataka in early 2026.

Two places I’m curious about: Tiruvannamalai (Tamil Nadu) and Kollegal (Karnataka).

For Tiruvannamalai, I’ve already found quite a bit of info on this forum, but the most recent posts are from 2018. Has anyone been there more recently? My plan is to stay for about a week, book a guesthouse, visit the big Shiva temple, Ramana Maharshi’s ashram, and the caves in the mountain. Any other spots in this town you’d recommend? Would you happen to know a nice guesthouse (preferably around 1500 rupees, doesn’t need to be near the ashram)?

As for Kollegal, I’m not finding much info. And I’m stuck on this permit issue for staying in the town. Can anyone fill me in?

Thanks for your help!

Good evening everyone. I’m so glad VoyageForum is back up and running. This forum has helped me plan so many trips thanks to all your contributions. So, I’m turning to you for advice on a trip I’m planning for March 2025, from the 7th to the 21st. I was thinking of a classic itinerary: Arrival in Delhi at 12:05 AM on Saturday, then taking a train in the afternoon to Agra. 2 nights in Agra 2 nights in Jaipur 2 nights in Pushkar 2 nights in Jodhpur 3 nights in Udaipur Then flying back to Delhi. The trip would mostly be by train (which we love) and bus. However, after reading various travelers’ comments, some cities seem less interesting, while others I hadn’t included—like Bundi and Jaisalmer—are catching my eye. But traveling by train and bus, I’m worried it might get really complicated. I’m not sure how to organize my stay anymore, especially since we love nature and peace and quiet… and I’m afraid of too much hassle if everything isn’t planned. Also, how can I book trains and buses in advance from France? Thanks in advance for your help. Magali

Hi everyone, for my 6th trip to India, I’ve chosen Ladakh and Zanskar. I’m planning a 15-day itinerary with a driver (one week in Ladakh and one week in Zanskar). I’m looking for info and tips from people who’ve recently traveled to these regions—anything that could help me prepare my route, must-see spots (or not!), accommodation advice, etc. Is it necessary to visit all three main lakes usually included in traditional circuits (Tso Moriri, Pangong, and Tso Kar)? In the Nubra Valley, the Hunder dunes with the camels don’t really tempt me given the mixed reviews... What do you think? Big question about altitude sickness—I’ve read that you should take it easy for a full day before hitting the road. Is that enough, or should I plan an extra day? Is it easy and quick to get the Inner Line Permit for the regions where it’s required? Thanks in advance for your tips!

Hello fellow travelers!

I’m adding my small contribution to the reopening celebration by posting this travel journal from India, made in January 2024. We’re 4 friends (2 couples), and we did a 3-week loop in Rajasthan, stopping by Delhi and Agra (which, as everyone knows, aren’t in Rajasthan 😛). Delhi - Agra - Jaipur - Bundi - Udaipur - Jodhpur - Jaisalmer - Delhi

We rented a car with a driver from Agra to Jaisalmer, 550 € for 14 days. https://chauffeurpriveeninde.com/fr/

We took the train from Delhi to Agra and the plane (Spicejet) from Jaisalmer to Delhi.

Most of the accommodations were booked on Booking before we left.

I’m sharing this story written by Richard and illustrated by me. We dedicate it to Nathalie and Bruno, our amazing travel companions.

Hi, I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.

What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?

As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?

Thanks for your insights!

We traveled as a couple from October 20 to December 11, 2025, for our second trip to India and our first time in Rajasthan, plus Mathura and Agra, which are in Uttar Pradesh but right on the border, and a 4-day flight hop to Varanasi. Here’s a non-detailed trip report—just to share some info we found useful for other travelers, along with a few places and addresses we particularly enjoyed. First off, a big thank you to (I’m using usernames) Aleph240758, Solene40, Montagnard74, and Pagaljavab, who took the time to reply to me. Some of them even take the time to create detailed and illustrated travel stories. Since I only started planning the trip in mid-August, I didn’t have much time and used the trip reports on VoyageForum to build our itinerary. One more note: everyone travels differently and has their own preferences... so I’ll just share our personal feelings, which are obviously subjective.

We bought a physical SIM card upon arriving at the airport. The Airtel stand only offers one package for 500 rupees (just under 5 €) for 28 days, with 1.5 GB of data, unlimited national SMS, and calls—more than enough. Contrary to what we’d read, we asked for activation at the counter, and it was active within 10 minutes. The SIM worked well everywhere. Watch out—like in all airports, there’s a tendency to take advantage of tourists. The Airtel counter offers to exchange money directly, and we saw people paying 20 € for the SIM.

Since we arrived at night, the metro wasn’t running anymore. Plus, if you don’t know the city, we’d recommend taking a prepaid taxi—the price is fixed, and the driver knows the destination. Be careful: the prepaid taxi counter is on the right as you exit the hall, with large fixed signs above. Many counters put out a card on the desk saying "prepaid taxi," and even the Airtel stand tries to offer supposedly prepaid taxis, which is completely false. The price they ask for could be double or triple.

Here’s an app that was super useful for us In most big cities, we used "Rapido," an Indian app like Uber, to book auto-rickshaws (you can also book motorbikes or cars). You need a local phone number for this. The big advantage? The price is fixed, though you can still leave a tip. It tracks your ride, and most importantly, the destination is entered—way more practical than hailing an auto-rickshaw on the street, where the driver says "yes, yes," gives a price, and then doesn’t know where to go once you’re on the way. No need to enter a credit card. There’s also OlaCabs, which is similar, but we couldn’t get it to work.

For transportation between stops, we used government buses (RSRTC, blue buses), sometimes taxis via apps or by asking the guesthouse for visits and hard-to-reach places. This choice was really personal and made on the spot. - **Pros:** Buses leave almost every 30 minutes everywhere, giving you a lot of freedom. Every time we left from the bus station (bus stand), we had seats. Several times, we even got to sit in the driver’s cabin! The trip takes longer than a taxi, but not *that* much longer. The price is ridiculously low—1.30 € for 100 km for men, 70 cents for women. The bus stations are in the city centers, unlike many private bus companies. We met some great people. - **Cons:** It’s not exactly clean, and you’re obviously not in the comfort of a taxi. It’s not door-to-door service, so you need to travel light. You can’t stop along the way. If you need to catch the bus mid-route, it’s usually full, and you’ll have to elbow your way in without hesitation. For a short trip, I think hiring a taxi for the whole stay makes sense. Like I said, there’s no one-size-fits-all choice, but there’s no need to be apprehensive about taking public buses.

Here’s our route map, showing the number of nights spent at each stop. Compared to our initial plan, we slept one night in Barmer instead of two because we had time to visit the market in the afternoon, saw the Kiradu site the next morning, and didn’t see the point in staying longer. We cut two of the six nights in Shekhawati. After our flight to Varanasi was canceled, we had to stay in Delhi, which actually turned out well—it let us arrive in Varanasi earlier and more rested. The timing worked well for us, with longer stops in Bundi and Udaipur.

I won’t go into detail about each stop here, but I’d be happy to answer any questions. The accommodations and restaurants mentioned are the ones that had that little something extra, and the hearts (❤️❤️❤️) mark the sites we particularly loved.

Tijana Fort Palace - Accommodation and recovery from the trip

Alwar - Palace with museum - Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri - Large reservoir

Bharatpur Accommodation: Iora Guesthouse, 14 €/night without breakfast—great value, cheap, good meals, close to the reserve Morning at Keoladeo Reserve by bike

Mathura - Ghats (Yamuna Ghats, Vishram Ghat) to visit in the evening - Market (Chattu Bazar) - Hindu temple Shri Dwarkadheesh dedicated to Krishna - Vrindavan temple Banke Bihari, ❤️❤️❤️ a very important temple with incredible religious fervor - Vrindavan Hindu temple Balaram ISKCON

Agra Accommodation: Shivalayaa - The Divine Abode, 16 €/night with breakfast on Booking—welcoming, clean, close to the Taj Mahal - Mausoleum of Akbar the Great (in Sikandra) ❤️❤️❤️ - Mausoleum of Itimad-ud-Daulah (mini Taj) ❤️❤️❤️ - Visit the Taj early in the morning (closed on Fridays) ❤️❤️❤️ - Agra Fort ❤️❤️❤️

Dholpur - Machkund Temple with its water body - Clock Tower Ghanta Ghar - Royal stepwell Dhaulpur Bavdi

Karauli - City Palace, private visit with a guard ❤️❤️❤️ - Shri Madan Mohan Temple for the puja starting at 5:30 PM ❤️❤️❤️ - Wandering the streets We loved this stop, which is off the main tourist trail, for its pleasant atmosphere

Bhandarej This is a stop as a starting point to visit the Chand Baori stepwell in Abhaneri ❤️❤️❤️ Accommodation: Bhadrawati Palace, 53 €/night with breakfast in Bhandarej—nice, an old palace, warm welcome, booked via Hotels.com We were the only guests and had dinner with the current manager, the grandson of the Maharaja. There’s a pretty stepwell in the village, and we visited a tiny neighborhood temple where we were invited to join in the singing and dancing. Walking through the market was really enjoyable because of the kindness of the locals, who aren’t used to tourism ❤️❤️❤️

Jaipur - Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) - Jal Mahal - Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan ❤️❤️❤️ - Amber Fort ❤️❤️❤️ - Panna Meena Ka Kund stepwell - Galta Ji Temple (Monkey Temple) ❤️❤️❤️ - Bagru, 33 km away: visit to a fabric printing workshop with block prints (I’d noted some addresses on Google Maps). The first workshop wasn’t very welcoming and had no workers because of the humid weather. We were lucky to find another, more welcoming workshop. When the sun came out, the three female workers arrived and started their work—it was a great visit ❤️❤️❤️.

Bundi Accommodation: Hotel Bundi Inn, 25 €/night with breakfast—lovely room in a haveli, good meals with a rooftop view of the fort - Garh Palace Don’t miss: at the exit of the palace, to the left, you can access a beautiful garden with a pool and, at the back, a large hall called Chitrashala ❤️❤️❤️ - Raniji Ki Baori ❤️❤️❤️ - Nahar Dhunk Ki Baori - Chaurasi Khambun Ki Chhatri (cenotaph with 84 pillars) - Ksar Bagh, an interesting set of royal cenotaphs at the end of Jait Sagar Lake. On the other hand, we could’ve skipped Sukh Mahal and its museum. Bundi is still pleasant but is no longer a secret spot.

Prologue

This journal recounts a trip to Rajasthan that’s already over a year old and that I’ve only now found the chance to write about. The summer of 2024 marked my return to India—my tenth trip—after six long years away since my last solo wanderings in Tamil Nadu in 2018 (the journal of which is published on this site). That absence was partly (but not only) due to the long COVID and post-COVID period, which saw a complete halt and then a major slowdown in global tourism. To top it off, Voyage Forum announced its closure in an end-of-the-world atmosphere. A sad time for our favorite social activity…

A few weeks after returning from Rajasthan, I tried to motivate myself to start writing a journal to publish on a forum claiming to be VF’s successor, which I’d eventually signed up for out of desperation. But I kept hesitating and putting the project off because, for one, I no longer have the time I used to. For another, the vibe wasn’t really taking off on that forum—it was overrun with ads and not very active, contrary to what its host’s name suggested. Despite its good intentions and commendable role as a stopgap, it also turned out to be very impractical to use, especially when you don’t have much time like me. I’ll admit I’d occasionally check back on VF to see if anything was happening. But all the discussions remained frozen in time, stuck in that fateful year, 2020. Then, rumors swirled online about shady reasons behind its closure, leaving little room for hope.

And then, one fine morning, I got a message at work from Marien informing me that VF had reopened. What a huge surprise! Even though the forum’s “end” had played out in a somewhat apocalyptic atmosphere, the memories of passionate and heated discussions, the frank debates, and the useful exchanges that made this site a traveler’s goldmine and a unique hub of conviviality all came rushing back to me like a breath of fresh air. I finally saw a sign and tried to motivate myself to find the time to publish the journal of this tenth trip to India and fifth to Rajasthan. But in the end, I got bogged down in professional and family obligations and never managed to find the time to get started. That’s now fixed, though, because I had two reasons for wanting to do it: I find that looking back on a trip to tell others about it is a highly beneficial introspective exercise. Also, I thought this journal could be useful to other travelers on a few points.

Because, “do we really need yet another journal about Rajasthan?” you might rightly ask! Especially in a time when so many journals about the “Land of Kings” have been published since VF’s return, not to mention the countless stories you can already find online about this region, one of India’s most touristy. And I’d add, why go back to Rajasthan for a fifth time, where I’ve already dragged my feet more than enough—through its forts, deserts, temples, cities, villages, bumpy roads, train stations, tasty street food stalls, cheap guesthouses, and more? Where some might see just another overhyped tourist destination full of the same old *Arabian Nights* clichés, worn to a thread, that I mentioned earlier, when there’s so much else to see in India? Well, first because it’s a magnificent country I never tire of, where I started an academic study and made so many connections. It’s also packed with places where you won’t find a single tourist (right, Marie-Jo?), even in the heart of well-trodden paths and classic itineraries. And most importantly, as I said earlier, things have changed in recent years. First, after six years without traveling far, the urge to go back to India was getting stronger. But this time, no more solo trips (often) or duo adventures (sometimes)—now it’s a team of four that has to come along! And even if you can argue with that, what better place than Rajasthan to introduce India to people who’ve never seen it? To kids you want to amaze? Plus, traveling with your new little family to your favorite country isn’t the same as going solo in often spartan conditions that only affect you. It’s a different challenge, but ultimately probably much harder. So, is it really reasonable to take two kids to India, including a two-year-old baby? That’s one of the main goals of this journal (but not the only one)—to try to answer that question.

As you can tell, it’s not so much the destination but the slightly unusual setup of this trip that, in my opinion, will make this journal interesting. Despite my experience and expertise (yes, I dare say it) in India, there were plenty of questions before we finalized the plan and said, “Alright, let’s go!” The questions were flying for us parents. Is it wise to travel to India with a two-year-old? What would we do (it happened) if the kids got very sick? Would they be able to handle a road trip on Rajasthan’s bumpy, dusty roads using public transport? Could they handle the shock of such a different world—the dirt, poverty, pollution, noise (…and the smell, as they say), the spicy food, monkeys, mosquitoes, snakes, tigers, leopards, and so on? In short, all the clichés that I usually joke about suddenly became potential realities. Another concern: as a mixed Franco-African family (not me, but my partner and her oldest), wouldn’t we risk not always being well received, given what you sometimes hear about that in India? How would Indians react to seeing a mixed-race family, the ultimate taboo in a country of purity and social segregation, which would undoubtedly raise many questions for them? Of course, not everything went as expected… Because, as you know, with India—and what makes it charming for some—there are always complications: sometimes where you don’t expect them… and sometimes where you do. I’ll go into detail about that in the journal to come (not right away) and in the final review (even later). These experiences could be useful to travelers who find themselves in similar situations and have the same questions we did before embarking on such a journey. And maybe it’ll spark the curiosity of those who aren’t concerned and will read yet another Rajasthan journal, but with its own unique twists.

Despite my unchanged constraints, which mean I have little time to write this, I don’t want to rush the story, so I’ll take my time. There will probably be lulls. I hope that won’t stop people from coming to react, debate, share their impressions, or ask for information.

I’ve been busy—here’s another travel journal on Rajasthan, with some new discoveries as always.

Thursday, January 25: I left home at 4:30 AM and headed to Barcelona airport. The roads weren’t blocked by farmers yet, so I made the trip without any issues. I arrived at the airport at 7:10 AM, called Parkvia, and someone picked up my car 15 minutes later. All that was left was to check in my luggage. My Etihad flight was at 10:25 AM, which gave me time for breakfast. We landed in Abu Dhabi at 7:30 PM. The flight to Delhi was at 10:15 PM, the transfer went smoothly without any stress, and we arrived in Delhi at 3:00 AM. I couldn’t waste any time upon arrival because I had a flight to Jodhpur at 6:55 AM. I got to customs, and what a nice surprise—the hall was empty. I went through immediately, had my passport and visa checked, and everything was fine. I grabbed my bag quickly and looked for the transfer to T2, which is outside. You have to walk along the taxi parking lot and take the long corridors—it’s well signposted, and the transfer took 10 minutes. At first, I was a little stressed, not knowing how long customs would take, but in the end, I was early for my 6:55 AM flight. I’m even glad I booked this one, as it got me to Jodhpur at 8:20 AM.

When I arrived, I took an auto-rickshaw to Jodhpur Palace GH, which I’d booked on Booking. The welcome was nice, and I was given a room right away. I was hoping to rest a bit, but unfortunately, it was very noisy. I settled in, took a shower, and was ready to go out and explore the city. The owner stopped me as I was leaving and told me I had to change rooms—I had to repack my bag before heading out. He showed me the way to the clock tower, which is about a 15-minute walk away.

A market lines the street leading to the tower, and the traffic is intense.



I set off in search of the stepwells and Gulab Sagar, a large basin with three water jets and a great view of Mehrangarh Fort. And yes, more baoris!



Toorji Ka Jhalra Bawdi isn’t far away. It’s a meet-up spot for tourists, with restaurants and terraces lining the area. The place is nice.





I looked for Mahila Bagh Ka Jhalra, went around in circles a bit, and finally found it right across from Gulab Sagar, where I’d already been. It’s not in good condition—it’s a shame it hasn’t been restored.



I went back through the clock tower area, found a currency exchange with a good rate, and booked my train tickets for the whole trip. The street was lively, with heavy traffic.





I was tired and headed back to the guesthouse. When I got there, I realized my phone wasn’t showing the right time, which gave me a chance to rest before going out for dinner. The Indigo restaurant is nearby and will be perfect.

Hello everyone!

We're off! After exploring the north, the four friends have now discovered the south. We’re excited to share this new travel journal, dedicated to our little group and our strong friendship, written by Richard and illustrated with Kate’s photos. I’ll chime in from time to time with practical tips.

First of all, a big thank you to everyone on VoyageForum who helped us plan this trip. It would’ve been quite different if we’d just relied on guidebooks.

The itinerary lasted just over 3 weeks: Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Thanjavur, the Chettinad region, Madurai, Munnar, Munroe Island, Cochin, and Chennai. We traveled by train, taxi, and private car with a driver, took a domestic flight, and stayed in guesthouses, Airbnb apartments, and hotels. For each of us, including flights, the total budget barely reached 2000 €, and we didn’t hold back—knowing we avoid resorts and love street food and small Indian restaurants.

Hey there, fellow travelers 😎

We’re back from 15 days in northern India.

For our 6th visit to this country, we traveled between Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh, and let’s just say it was an emotional rollercoaster!!

So if you’re up for it, we’re taking you to Varanasi, Chitrakoot, Khajuraho, Orchha, and Agra.

Ready for takeoff??

WELCOME TO VARANASI



When you leave your sanitized, rigid Western world behind, there’s nothing like diving back into the Indian chaos. And we nailed it—because when it comes to monumental madness, we couldn’t have picked a better place to start than Varanasi 😉!!

Here’s a little recap of our first day in this insane city.

It all starts with landing at the city’s airport.

As soon as we step out, hundreds of Indians stare at us like they’ve never seen white people before (I’d forgotten how intense that is!). There are lots of women covered in black fabric, only their eyes visible—pretty striking, I must say. Turns out they’re Indians working in the Middle East, heading back to "work" after a month’s vacation.

We hop in a taxi, but after a few kilometers, we’re stopped… by the passage of the "state minister." The roads are freshly paved and spotless for his convoy (you can *totally* tell the difference with the roads he didn’t use 😛). We didn’t manage to spot him in the middle of the 25 cars surrounding him, though!!

Then we arrive in front of the mythical Ganges—a peaceful spot, except for a boat full of Indian pilgrims who, once again, stare at us and take our pictures (the mutual curiosity is hilarious!!).



We board a boat, and almost immediately, we pass a cremation ghat!! Oh crap, I wasn’t expecting that so soon—it hits me hard (like, *really* hard 🤪)!! Huge piles of wood, eight massive fires with families gathered around. It lasts as long as the boat ride, and you think you must’ve imagined it… but no!!

You dock and wander through the tiny alleys.

It’s 36°C (97°F) with 90% humidity—you’re dripping.

Cows block the way sometimes. The air smells like incense, then urine, then a woman’s perfume, then rotten fruit, then amazing street food—all within two meters, and *everywhere*!!



Then you step into the main street where pilgrims arrive (60,000 a day—Varanasi is the country’s holiest city!!). The chaos ramps up as you head toward the main road: nonstop honking, a bike whizzing past on your right, a scooter on your left, people brushing against you from all sides, air thick with dust and smoke (diesel *or* cremation!!), beggars of all kinds (kids, elderly, disabled) lined up to appeal to the pilgrims, the suffocating heat, and noise—*so much* noise…



In some areas, people constantly approach you: "Come see my shop," "Need a taxi?" "Want to exchange money?" And then there’s the woman with her baby in her arms, following you for meters, repeating, "No money, milk; no money, milk…" And you’re *dying* inside, but you can’t stop. If you give in, ten more will come running!! You grit your teeth, keep walking, even talk to yourself out loud!!

After half an hour, it feels like you’ve run a marathon, and you don’t even know where you live anymore!

In the evening, you head to the PUJA (public prayers for all the pilgrims) on a boat in the middle of hundreds of others. Two ghats are competing—who can make the most noise. One side is singing, the other chanting, then they switch. They wave flames, the ghats are packed.



After dinner, you head back to your room around 9 PM and see hundreds of people sleeping on the scorching stones—with cows, dogs, and goats!!!!

A huge thank-you to our parents for giving us the mental balance to handle this, because *India drives you crazy*—and we’re right in the thick of it!!!

It’s an ex.tra.or.di.nary place in the truest sense of the word, with incredible beauty—especially in its human diversity—if you can look past what shocks you.



We stayed for 3 days—3 days of unmatched intensity, where the spectacle is *constant*.



So I *highly* recommend it to all travel lovers, those who embrace difference, and the strange (for us, at least). But definitely *not* for anyone looking for a relaxing vacation!!



More to come soon if you’re interested!!

During the 60s and 70s, thousands of travelers hit the road to India. Some were backpackers or hippies, but not all. In this collective anthology featuring around twenty contributors (including GeorgesOz), you’ll also find truth-seekers, a couple who went on their honeymoon to get married in Bengal... and "crazy" folks who set off on VéloSolex bikes...

Worth noting: all contributors donated their royalties to support the Céline Hegron clinic in a poor neighborhood of Varanasi.

March 2nd — Departure by bus from Latour at 6:50 AM. The journey isn’t direct: we pass through Elne then Corneilla. In Perpignan, I switch to a BlablaBus heading to Barcelona’s northern bus station. Before reaching Le Perthus, French police stop us to check IDs. Several people aren’t in order, but after about fifteen minutes, we’re on our way again. We’re checked again at La Jonquera: this time, the wait lasts almost forty-five minutes while police identify those in violation and wait for a vehicle to pick them up. The driver then tries to make up for lost time; we finally arrive at our destination half an hour late.

I quickly head to the Arc de Triomphe metro station, located 200 meters away: you have to cross the bridge along the bus parking lot, then walk through a large garden; the station is on the right before the garden entrance. The trip to the airport isn’t direct: I have to change at Tomasso and take the line to the airport, where I arrive at 1 PM.

At the Emirates counter, I learn my flight was just canceled due to the war in Iran; they offer me another flight for the next day. I have to wait at the airport until 7 PM before being taken to a hotel; the next morning, I’ll take a flight to Vienna (with an 8-hour layover), then an Air India flight to Delhi, and finally a flight to Kolkata. I agree: I don’t know Vienna, so it’ll be an unexpected discovery.

At 7 PM, a small group is taken to the hotel, 35 minutes from the airport, where we’re served a light dinner upon arrival.

March 3rd — A taxi picks me up at 6:30 AM; the flight to Vienna takes off at 9:30 AM and arrives at noon. I’m free until 7 PM; the metro is direct to the city center. The weather is pleasant and not too cold, luckily, since my clothes are light.

When I exit the metro, I spot the St. Stephen’s Cathedral tower in the distance and approach it: the roof, made of glazed tiles, is remarkable.



Entry is free, and the interior, a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles in the center, is stunning.



Not far from there is St. Anne’s Church



, also Baroque, adorned with beautiful frescoes



—a music concert adds an enchanting atmosphere to the visit. I continue my walk at random through the pedestrian streets lined with magnificent buildings: I’m charmed by the city.







Before heading back to the airport, I stop at a lovely tea salon. My flight will eventually leave with a delay.

Wednesday, March 4th — Delhi and a little luggage scare We arrive in Delhi shortly after noon. Immigration is quick, and good news: my bag was checked through from Barcelona to Kolkata. I head to the connecting terminal and arrive half an hour before boarding: the flight goes smoothly. Upon arrival, the luggage comes out quickly… except mine. After filing a report, I’m told my bag is in Delhi—I have to retrieve it before taking another flight. I didn’t know (or had forgotten): with the delays, I wouldn’t have had time to pick it up and make the connection.

I take a taxi to the Ichamati Hotel. The welcome is warm, and the room is clean but very small. Without my bag, I feel a bit lost—I have nothing to change into.

Tonight, I’m dining with Raja and his friends at a beautiful restaurant, an old colonial house turned into a hotel.





We’re happy to see each other and have a comforting evening together.

Wednesday, April 1st

Hazaribagh I’ve got a meet-up with Adam Iman, a guide and painter. He picks me up from the hotel at 10 AM. Another traveler from Bangalore is supposed to join us, but while we wait for him to arrive, Adam takes me to see the paintings his mother and sister created at Hazaribagh station. The town became famous thanks to these murals, which can also be found in several surrounding villages. This art form has earned recognition and is now protected, a sign of its cultural importance. Once the visit is over, we go to pick up the other traveler and then head to our first village: Belwara, where Sohrai art is practiced. At the entrance, a sign proudly announces that we’re entering an artists’ village, where this art is created by women organized into micro-enterprises. Some even offer workshops for those who’d like to learn this tradition.



Sohrai art is tied to the harvest season, from October to mid-November. The motifs, in natural colors, celebrate fertility and abundance. The artists use pigments from the earth: red oxides, ochre, white kaolin, and black manganese. On the walls, you’ll see animals, fish, birds—all symbols of life and prosperity. As I look closer at the murals, I start to realize that each motif tells a story. Large animals like cows or bulls often take center stage. Their bodies are filled with intricate, almost hypnotic patterns. They symbolize wealth and prosperity for the household, as well as the deep respect for cattle, which are essential to daily life. On some facades, elephants stand out—massive and decorated with the same precision. They evoke quiet strength and protection. But it’s when I stop in front of one of the houses that I really take the time to look. The wall, a soft ochre, is entirely covered in murals. Two large animals stretch out on either side of the door, their elongated bodies fitting the length of the wall. Their silhouettes are filled with geometric patterns and incredibly fine curved lines, as if every space was patiently filled. Around them, stylized plants, flowers, and small decorative elements fill every gap. The door, dark and worn, becomes almost the silent center of the composition, framed by these living, protective forms. To the right, a more colorful motif catches the eye—a flower or a stylized lamp—like a touch of light on the earth. The whole thing gives an impression of perfect balance, between the rigor of the patterns and the freedom of the gesture.



Elsewhere, birds and freer forms bring movement. Peacocks, recognizable by their stylized silhouettes, embody beauty and vitality, while fish symbolize water, fertility, and the continuity of life.

On some paintings, the scenes become almost narrative: you can make out figures, everyday gestures, like a memory of the village inscribed in the walls. The decorative frames around the doors aren’t left to chance either—they symbolically protect the house, like a boundary between the inside and the outside world.







During the Sohrai festival, cattle are led into the jungle in the morning. Meanwhile, the women finish the *aripans*—these floor paintings—and continue the wall murals. Around noon, the animals return to the village, and the bulls’ horns are anointed with oil and vermilion in a gesture of gratitude, amid the vibrant colors adorning the houses. We visit several artists, including Parvat Devi, a well-known woman who has received many awards. Her arms are adorned with intriguing tattoos, which I’ll talk about in more detail later.



On another wall, the style changes completely. Here, no massive animals—just birds occupying the space, light and graceful, as if caught in mid-movement. Two silhouettes face each other, their long necks arched almost like mirrors, while their outstretched wings seem to vibrate with the patterns that compose them.



The design is more graphic, almost airy. The lines are smoother, more fluid, as if drawn in one confident stroke. The birds’ bodies aren’t solid—they’re filled with repetitive motifs like scales, stylized feathers, and spirals, giving a sense of continuous movement. Around them, everything comes to life: flowers burst open, arabesques swirl, and even the simplest shapes seem alive. What strikes me here is the sense of lightness. Where the large animals evoked stability and grounding, these birds bring something freer, almost joyful. They seem to embody movement, the circulation of life, like a breath flowing through the village.



The colors remain the same—deep reds, intense blacks, and chalky white—but the rhythm is different. Faster, more spontaneous. As if each wall had its own personality, while still speaking the same language.

That’s probably why I’m so moved. I’d heard about these paintings from my friend Raja, and last year, I saw an exhibition in a village near my home. That first encounter made me want to come here. But seeing them in person is a whole different experience. These paintings are unique. This ancient art is passed down from mother to daughter, or mother-in-law to daughter-in-law, in a quiet, deeply living continuity. At first glance, it might seem almost childlike in its simplicity and pared-down forms. And yet, everything is thought out, balanced, mastered. Nothing is left to chance.



That apparent simplicity, combined with such rich symbolism, touches me deeply. There’s something sincere and essential in these walls—and that’s what moves me.

Hi there, We're planning to spend 2 to 3 weeks in South India (Kerala) in January or February 2025. We'd like to use a travel agency to help us make this trip happen. Can you recommend a reliable agency that can tailor a trip to our needs? Thanks! 😊

Hello everyone, we got back from our trip to Kashmir and Ladakh three weeks ago. We spent 4 weeks there, including one in Kashmir. We’re really happy with our stay in Srinagar and Sonamarg. The Kashmiris gave us a very warm welcome and seemed pleased to see tourists who weren’t Indian. In fact, over the 4 days we spent in Srinagar, we only saw 4 people who looked European... Srinagar is stunning with its lakes and the lively Mughal gardens. No trouble getting around, whether by shikara, rickshaw, taxi, or on foot. The houseboats are gorgeous, unfortunately controlled by consortiums. We took a taxi to Sonamarg (20 €).

Sonamarg (two nights) and its glacier are easy to explore, either on horseback or on foot, but it’s becoming a leisure spot for Indians. To get to Ladakh afterward, we opted for a private taxi (quite expensive at 100 €, but the road is long). Since we’re a couple, it allowed us to stop whenever we wanted... and the route is beautiful all the way to Lamayuru, with our first snow-covered pass under snow when we crossed around May 21st. Then we stopped in Mulbek and Kargil before arriving in Lamayuru (three nights). We took another taxi to Alchi (26 €), spent one night there, and took the local bus at around 8 AM to Leh (3 €, a comfortable one-hour ride). We arrived in Leh around 9:30 AM, and Gyatsel from Tsarap Guesthouse came to pick us up with our backpacks. His guesthouse is located 500 meters from the market square in Leh, in a quiet little alley with no traffic. We highly recommend it because Gyatsel is invaluable for arranging taxis and organizing off-agency circuits...

His accommodation is super comfortable, and he cooks with vegetables from his garden. His wife also helps out... It’s Gyatsel’s mother who tends the garden. Through him, we arranged permits for the Nubra Valley up to Turtuk, then the Pangong and Tso Moriri lakes (we didn’t do the latter due to snow overnight!). We also crossed the Changtang (magnificent) to reach Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis, and returned to Leh. Six days in a private taxi (400 €). Since the roads were clear, we headed to Zanskar for 5 days in a shared taxi (28 € round trip for both of us). The route from Leh to Zangla follows the Zanskar gorges (impressive!).

We discovered Padum, Pibiting, Karsha, and Puktal, which you can reach via a small 7 km road and a 45-minute walk to finish, plus the sacred summit on the way to Manali.

Back in Leh, we extended our permit to visit the Aryan Valley by taxi (round trip, two days, 90 €). We spent our last two days resting in Leh—the altitude is really tiring...

I’m sharing these taxi prices as a guide for a couple. Accommodation ranged from 12 € in Leh to 30 € at Pangong Lake (the most expensive), but averaged around 15-17 € per night.

We’re not trekkers, but we love walks, discovery, and meeting people along the way. It was an amazing trip, and we even discovered a very old monastery a few kilometers before Lamayuru, where a monk took us—timeless...

I’m sharing these details because it’s hard to find precise information about Kashmir.

Today I ended up being denied boarding at CDG. I booked the trip through a physical travel agency with no assistance for the visa application. I applied in plenty of time and got the approval. Except I put the 9th (the day I left France) as the date instead of the 10th, which is the arrival date in India. That’s what caused the denial. I’m guessing I don’t have any recourse? Thanks for your replies.

Hi there, has anyone got recent updates on getting the "PAP", the permit to enter Arunachal? The info I’ve gathered from here and there—pretty unreliable!—suggests it’s impossible to get this permit in Assam (Guwahati) and that it takes about 15 days if you go through an agency (but where are these agencies located???). Thanks for your reply (urgent!).

Stay tuned for trip reports from a series of 5 treks between Zanskar and Ladakh from early August to early September 2026, always solo and fully self-sufficient with around 20 kg of gear. Make sure to bring good equipment for cold nights at high altitude, even in summer, a sturdy tent to handle thunderstorms and hail, and a solid pair of sandals for crossing the many glacial streams. If you don’t fly directly into Leh but, like me, come from Kargil, you won’t find gas canisters... In that case, I used a small alcohol stove with thinner bought locally since denatured alcohol is impossible to find in India. The thinner worked perfectly as fuel, even at high altitude—it’s sold for just 120 rupees per liter in paint shops.

Hi everyone, Two years ago, I got a 5-year visa. But I had to change my plans and haven’t used it yet. Do you think it’s still valid? I’d like to go to India at the beginning of the year. I’ve got a big doubt. Do you know where I can find this info? Thanks a bunch!

Hi there,

Have you ever traveled with this airline? It seems like they have a real monopoly on some destinations and are also much cheaper.

Thank youuuu.