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Many results are in French, the community’s main language. English translations are added over time.

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1 Month in Uzbekistan: Adjusting the Itinerary Due to Heat
by Filoulinca · 2026-07-05 · 1 reply
Hi everyone,

We’re heading to Uzbekistan in three weeks for a month.

We still haven’t finalized our itinerary, and the extreme heat forecasted might really impact our plans. I’d love any advice on places where the heat might be a bit more bearable...

We’re arriving in Urgench and leaving from Tashkent. Generally, we only travel by bus, train, or group excursions—we don’t rent vehicles...

Originally, the plan was to visit Khiva, possibly head to Nukus for an excursion to the Aral Sea. I would’ve preferred a detour into Kazakhstan to Mangystau, but it seems either impossible or very complicated... Next, we’d head toward Tashkent, obviously stopping in Bukhara and Samarkand, with a possible stop in Nurata? Or maybe from Samarkand, a quick trip to Tajikistan in the mountains? From Tashkent, we could go to Chorvoq or the surrounding area, where it seems a little cooler, and do some hikes around Charvak Lake. I’m struggling to find solid info on Ugam-Chatkal National Park... What about the Ferghana Valley or Kokand, where the heat seems more intense? Then back to Tashkent.

If you’ve got any great tips, I’d really appreciate it!

Philippe
Backcountry Skiing in Uzbekistan - Trip Report
by Justina · 2026-07-06 · 1 reply
Hello! We headed to Uzbekistan at the end of February 2026. The main goal of the trip was to explore the mountains on skis, but of course, we did some backpacking along the way too!

For skiing, we checked out two spots: first, the Chimgan and Amirsoy region. The infrastructure is brand new (hotels, ski lifts, restaurants). We managed some great tours, especially in Amirsoy, where the gondola gave us a real boost and let us go even further.

Next, we moved on to Gilan, just a stone’s throw from the Tajik border. The scenery was completely different—wild and rugged. We stayed in a super cozy little guesthouse, learned how to make Plov, and ate like kings. Despite the unpredictable weather, we had amazing ski tours. The villagers got a kick out of seeing us walk around with our skis on our shoulders—it’s probably not something they see every day!

After our skiing buddies headed home, we explored Khiva, Moynaq, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent before flying back.

As usual, we didn’t plan anything in advance, and traveling off-season was definitely the way to go. There was plenty of space everywhere. We traveled by train (except for Moynaq). It’s super easy—you buy tickets through the app, and you don’t even need to print them.

I couldn’t figure out how to post the links to the three videos I made from this trip, but you can find my channel in my profile. Have a look around! ;-)

If you’ve got any questions, feel free to reach out—I’d be happy to answer as best as I can!
looking for a travel companion for a trek
by Furk · 2026-08-04 · 0 replies
hi I just booked tickets for September–October 2026 (3 weeks) in Uzbekistan—a country I haven’t visited yet. I’d love to find someone to join me for a few days of hiking in the mountains, but without going through a tour operator or hiring a guide. If anyone’s interested or has already done this, I’d love to hear all your tips. thanks
hiking info
by Furk · 2026-08-04 · 0 replies
hi there I’m heading to Uzbekistan for three weeks from mid-September to mid-October 2026—a country I haven’t visited yet. I’d love to do a few multi-day hikes in the mountains without going through a tour operator or hiring a guide. Has anyone here done this? It doesn’t have to be all trekking; day hikes are great too. I’m open to any tips!

Also, I see there are lots of train options if you book well in advance—does that only apply to the "fast" trains? Are there buses as well?

Thanks, community! 🙂
Trip to Uzbekistan – Autumn 2026
by Madgic83 · 2026-06-28 · 5 replies
Hello! For the few who’ve traveled to Iran, loved the country, and discovered its incredible thousand-year-old beauty and the amazing kindness of its people—one of the last places still untouched by mass tourism— I’d have loved to go back, but given the current situation, it’s not possible right now, and likely won’t be for a long time. In the meantime, a neighboring country, Uzbekistan, definitely deserves a visit! I discovered it through photo reports, and it reminds me a lot of Iran. So, I’m planning to check it out. On foot, on horseback, or by car 😄—this time, I’m going with a car 🚗😊😍 I’m looking for an independent, motivated travel companion to explore this seemingly wonderful country. Who’s in? ⭐
I dreamed of it, we did it
by Pepita65 · 2026-08-12 · 1 reply
Hi everyone, Way back when, before the internet and all that, there were Larousse encyclopedias, and in the proper names section, I came across a photo of Samarkand. Just the name made me dream. I kept it in the back of my mind for later, and last winter, I revisited the idea. Within a few weeks, I managed to plan our 16-day getaway. Oh, I didn’t do it all by myself—I used a travel agency to handle the flights, accommodations, transportation, and local guide. It was a custom trip for three people, tailored to what we wanted to do, what we wanted to see, within the time we’d chosen, at our own pace.

The main goal of the trip was to visit the three iconic cities of architectural art in Uzbekistan (just for the sheer beauty of it) and, very secondarily, to take a break with a short hike.

We left in early May, flying from Toulouse to Istanbul, then to Tashkent: - One day in Tashkent, 2 nights, - By car (6 hours) to the Fergana region: Margilan (silk and pottery), 2 nights, with a guide, - Back to Tashkent, then a flight to Khiva, 2 nights, 1 day with a guide, 1 day on our own, - Train to Bukhara (6 hours, sleeper cars), 3 nights, 1 day with a guide, 1 day on our own, - Train to Samarkand, 2 nights, 1 day with a guide, - By car to Tersak, 1 night with a local family, short hike, same guide, - By car to Shakhrisabz (Tamerlane’s hometown), then back to Samarkand, - Samarkand, 2 more nights, - Train back to Tashkent, final night, and return home.

What I took away from this Silk Road trip: - A completely safe country in May—don’t go later because of the heat, - The warm welcome and easy connection with Uzbeks, a multicultural people, - A constant puzzle with currency exchange (how much is that in euros? ) 1 € = 14,000 sums, - Logistics handled by a local agency—top-notch, - Delicious meals at a very reasonable price, - Total awe in Khiva and Samarkand (palaces, mausoleums, mosques, madrasas), - The length of the trip, which let us wander and take our time.

A few photos, but not too many—I don’t want to spoil the joy of discovery!
Allowed medications at Tashkent customs
by Odilji · 2026-06-30 · 16 replies
Hi, I’m bringing Seresta, an anxiolytic (tranquilizer) from the benzodiazepine family, to help me sleep. I’ll have the prescription with me. Will this be a problem at customs, and do I need to declare it? Same question for antibiotics? Thanks a bunch!
Summer 2027 - Uzbekistan/Kyrgyzstan Family Trip (19 Nights)
by Ichijooo · 2026-06-15 · 8 replies
Hello,

Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:

Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €

Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.
Uzbekistan/Kazakhstan border crossing
by Tiger3 · 2026-04-08 · 5 replies
Hi, are there any travelers who’ve recently crossed the border between Karakalpakstan (Uzbekistan) and Beineu in Kazakhstan? It was closed for a while. Thanks for any info!
Solar vehicle Otonomi: seeking senior adventurer for journey from France to the Pamir!
by Otonomi · 2026-03-05 · 8 replies
It’s never too late to live intensely. I’m Guy, I’ve passed 70, and I’m looking for a female travel companion for an extraordinary adventure aboard OTONOMI—a solar-powered tandem I built with my own hands over two years. My past is that of an unrepentant traveler: crossing the Atlantic in an ultralight aircraft, swimming across channels, and a high-level sailing record in major transatlantic races... OTONOMI isn’t a retiree’s whim—it’s the final chapter of a life of adventure, perhaps the most beautiful one. Departure at the end of May. Route: Europe to Baku, crossing the Caspian by ferry, then Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, the Pamir, Kyrgyzstan, and return via Kazakhstan. At least 3-4 months. No need to be athletic—a session of *longe côte* (coastal walking) requires more physical effort than a full day on OTONOMI. You don’t even have to pedal at all. OTONOMI tows a foldable solar-powered caravan trailer—camping under the stars or staying in small local hotels, depending on your mood. Road expenses are shared simply. I’m looking for a free-spirited woman, curious, passionate about genuine encounters and wide-open spaces—appearance or insecurities don’t matter. Just that flame still burning inside you. A real-life test run is planned before departure—so we can meet naturally, without pressure. 📩 guy.otonomi@outlook.fr
Driving to India via Turkey, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and the Silk Road
by Collindibar · 2026-02-18 · 7 replies
hello fellow travelers For my golden years, I'd like to drive to India in my 508. I want to avoid Iran and Pakistan. Instead, I’m thinking of going through Turkey, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, then taking the ferry from Baku to Türkmenbaşy in Turkmenistan, followed by the Silk Road through Central Asia—Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.

After that, China? I’ve seen that some travelers manage to drive through China with their own vehicle... Then Tibet, Nepal, and India... But things get tricky with the Himalayan crossing. I’ve checked on Google—it looks tough.

Any tips or info on these routes? Thanks
Desert itinerary: Uzbekistan & Mangystau
by Progshots · 2025-08-07 · 5 replies
Hi there, After a long absence, I’m back on this forum where I used to post under the username NealMorse (mostly about off-the-beaten-path spots in the American West...).

I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).

One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!

Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance
Looking for travel companions for Central Asia - July to early August
by Tigana · 2025-05-24 · 0 replies
Hi there,

Thomas from Lausanne here (42 years old). I’m targeting those countries for this summer. Itineraries/activities are up for discussion, but if there’s hiking involved, I’m all for it!

Let’s chat if the destination appeals to you! !
Sharing a Central Asia trip - July 2025
by Schmitti · 2025-02-06 · 0 replies
I’m giving it another shot to share a trip I’ve planned for next July. My itinerary starts in Almaty, Kazakhstan, with hikes around Lake Kaindy and Lake Kolsay, then the Charyn Canyon. After crossing the border into Kyrgyzstan, we’ll head to the southern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul and finally to Lake Song Kul. There’ll be walks at Fairy Tale Canyon, Seven Bulls, and Barskoon Gorge...

After a flight from Bishkek to Tashkent, we’ll visit the cities of Uzbekistan: Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva.

Transport will be by car with a driver.

We’re a couple in our sixties and would love to share this trip with another couple or two solo travelers.

If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch.
Travel companions for Central Asia in July 2025
by Schmitti · 2024-12-27 · 13 replies
Hi there! I’m planning a trip to Central Asia in July 2025. If two people are interested in joining us, we can share a car with a driver for the first part of the trip (Almaty, Charyn Canyon, and Kaindy Lake in Kazakhstan), then the southern shore of Issyk-Kul Lake and Son-Kul Lake, all the way to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan. After a flight from Bishkek to Tashkent in Uzbekistan, we’ll explore Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva on our own (train tickets booked through a local agency). Thanks! 😊
On the Silk Road: Chronicles of a Sixty-Something Traveling Completely Independently
by Sarana · 2020-03-07 · 73 replies
From Beijing to Khiva: China, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan Chronicle of anecdotes, highlights, and other adventures that marked this eight-week journey in 2018.



The Chinese Far West More than 30 years after my first trip to eastern China, I finally fulfilled an old dream: traveling solo from Beijing to the far west, discovering Xinjiang, the Uyghur people and the oppression they endure, the oases of Turpan and Kashgar, the Taklamakan Desert, the end of the Great Wall... The route was covered by train.

MENU PART 1: CHINA

1- Beijing (Jiankou) : the authentic Great Wall, without tourists 2- Cycling in Beijing, the best way to get around 3- Beijing : departure for the far west 4- Jiayuguan : getting by without English 5- Jiayuguan : scams and heritage 6- Dunhuang : abundance in the middle of the desert 7- Turpan : the Uyghurs under heavy surveillance 8- Kashgar : love at first sight for the old city 9- Kashgar : China’s recipe for controlling the populace 10- Tashkurgan : what on earth was I thinking going there! Kyrgyz border: a surreal epic Photo album from the 80s, contributions from other travelers (page 2)

1- JIANKOU Finding the authentic Great Wall, without tourists or a guide Friday, August 24, 2018 Thirty years later, I didn’t feel like revisiting the Great Wall at Badaling or any other overcrowded site. I chose to explore it at Jiankou, in its wildest, most authentic, and unrestored section, starting from a lost village deep in a valley—though it wasn’t *that* lost, since it had everything for communication.



No need to pay for a taxi to get there—by timing it right, you can take the bus for just a few yuan. You have to get off at Xizhazi, the bus terminus. Be careful, there are only two buses a day in each direction. At the Xizhazi bus stop, I met a young couple who’d arrived with zero information about what to expect. We hiked the three of us toward the restored section of Mutianyu.

Still, be cautious With GPS and a topographic map (OpenTopoMap), you can set off without a problem or guide. The trail up to Jiankou is easy and well-marked. The trails down are too. But be careful—once you’re on the Wall, it’s real mountain hiking, with easy but dangerous climbing sections (over sheer drops). Not for amateurs or those afraid of heights! But what a reward. The Wall all to yourself, where it’s at its most daring. Truly mesmerizing.

More photos...

2- BEIJING The best way to get around the capital Sunday, August 26 The best way to explore the city is still by bike. Most are in a bike-share system, but you need to use an app—WeChat, the app that does everything, like monitoring your every move. No way I was installing that.



I found one at a rental shop near the hostel. The key is to quickly learn local traffic customs to minimize risks. Bike lanes are wide along the avenues.

But you still have to: - Watch out for anything parked on the bike paths—the most annoying are people napping or talking on the phone in their cars - Keep an eye on everything coming the wrong way—the list is long - The worst is right turns on red, which in Chinese traffic rules seem to have priority Once you get the hang of it, it’s fine. The city is huge but flat, so you can just wing it.

3- BEIJING By train to the far west Sunday, August 26 Beijing West Station is the size and operates like an airport. With your e-ticket from the agency, you first have to pick up your ticket at the special "English" counter, after passing through security. With your ticket in hand, you have to exit and enter through the boarding waiting area—not the platform—after a second security check.

Then you find the right hall and wait for the sign to finally access the platform. In the end, it works pretty well given the incredible number of passengers to manage. Everywhere in Beijing, I saw that the Chinese have mastered crowd flow management.

Nice surprise: second-class carriages are clean, air-conditioned, and bright. Perfect, since I was in for 20 hours. One uniformed attendant per carriage, mobile meal service—luxury! Small downside: no luggage space. Hauling your suitcase up to the top bunk is quite a workout. I was in the middle, so it wasn’t too bad. The landscape, though, whether rural or urban, is pretty bleak. That should change once we leave the eastern plains.

Of course, I got my first police visit, with a thorough passport check and bag search. I was warned—going to the Chinese far west exposes you to this kind of hassle. But they were polite and respectful.

The Chinese Far West

4- JIAYUGUAN Getting by without English Monday, August 27 At the gates of two deserts (Gobi and Taklamakan) and at the foot of the Tibetan highlands, the Great Wall ends at Jiayuguan. Here, I found the deeper China I’d somewhat rediscovered during my bike ride, even if now everyone gets around on electric bikes and I’m no longer stared at like an alien.



Prices are nothing like Beijing: you can find a full meal for 2 €, and my bike cost 7 € for two days. Plus, few people speak English—neither the owner of the HI hostel where I stayed, nor the ticket sellers at the sites, let alone the servers at the small eateries where I ate. Everything is written in Chinese. So I had to use the little Chinese I know to communicate about essentials. It makes the locals laugh to see a European trying to speak their language, but it earns respect. With Google Translate’s help, I managed.

Rant: With their avenues blocked for construction for kilometers without warning, and new roads not yet on maps, I must’ve taken 15 km of detours. More photos...

5- JIAYUGUAN Scams and heritage Tuesday, August 28 The Great Wall doesn’t exactly end at the fort I visited yesterday but 10 km further, at the entrance to a river gorge at the foot of the mountains. All that’s left is a badly damaged tower (more like a mound of earth) and a section of clay wall, similar to the one I biked yesterday.



This morning, I hopped on my bike, determined to venture into the desert to see this highly symbolic site. First, you access it via a wide, brand-new road with not a soul in sight. Just before the site, I came across a grand welcome gate, very period-style, but it’s actually the inevitable toll booth.

Behind the gate, the road continues straight to the site, which you can see in the distance—at least 2 km away—the remains of the tower and wall. I had to leave my bike here. Fine. I went to the ticket counter and asked the price: 120 yuan! I couldn’t believe it—over 15 € for a simple mound of earth.

I showed my displeasure to the attendant, who couldn’t care less, and immediately turned back. 120 yuan—that’s the price for a new road, a fancy gate planted 2 km before the site just to force you to take a shuttle, and employees with nothing to do all day... Now I understand why I didn’t meet anyone!

Heritage China is a bit pricey Generally, sites are expensive for the country’s standard of living, but travelers are supposed to have money, so why hold back? I even gave up on the Forbidden City—reservations required days in advance (or on the black market at an impossible price). I prefer to keep the memory of my first visit, when entry must’ve cost a few dozen cents, and there were only a handful of visitors.

This morning, I took a taxi to see remarkable tombs of common people from the 3rd to 6th centuries. They’re small vaulted caves made of painted bricks, depicting scenes of daily life. Very pretty and moving. But even here, though the price was more reasonable, I was left wanting—only one of the 16 tombs is open to visitors, and it’s apparently not the most beautiful.

The authentic China—at least what’s left of it... Wandering the impersonal avenues of the city, you stumble upon a market. There, you still find traditional China—small shops with questionable hygiene, Go players, musicians, and even a dental prosthetist. The last refuge for those untouched by modernity. More photos...

6- DUNHUANG Abundance in the middle of the desert Wednesday, August 29 Well, I thought the landscape would be less bleak as I headed west. Nope. The only distraction in this expanse of dark, clayey sand is the forests of pylons and wind turbines, plus wild camels racing each other.

However, Dunhuang, the gateway to the Taklamakan, is by far the most pleasant Chinese city I know. There’s a real city center you can explore on foot. It’s hot but not unbearable, with a light, dry breeze. Much nicer than Beijing. The Han Chinese are still the majority, but the Muslim Uyghurs are more numerous, and the muezzin’s call to prayer echoes around the mosque.

The most surprising thing is the abundance and diversity of fruits and vegetables. You wonder how it all grows here. Well-irrigated, the desert sands are very fertile. Here, raisins have subtle, mysterious flavors, and the lamb really tastes like lamb.

Today, I visited the must-see Mingshashan, a dune complex next to which Pila is a molehill. The Basque Country, but covered in sand... More photos...

7- TURPAN The Uyghurs under heavy surveillance Friday, August 31 Surveillance cameras everywhere in the city, armed police stationed at intersections, in front of public buildings, at the entrance and inside tourist sites, police stations on every corner, patrols on foot or by car, khaki uniforms even for middle schoolers... here, the Han Chinese are in the minority, and you can feel it. Turpan feels like a city under siege.



To enter the youth hostel where I stayed, there’s even a security gate, and the receptionist (a Han, like everyone in tourism) wears a bulletproof vest! Reassuring. Still, you don’t feel particularly threatened here, especially as a European. The troublemakers are the Chinese, not the Uyghurs. Generally, China is a very safe country for visitors.

Smile, you’re on camera! I was biking on an avenue when the car in front of me got flashed for driving slowly. I quickly understood why when I got flashed too.

Here, the official time is Beijing time, but it gets dark two hours later. It’ll be even worse in Kashgar. Trickier to manage: everything is displayed in Chinese and Arabic. Nothing in English. Choosing a menu is a shot in the dark. Apart from a few young Chinese, no one here speaks English, and my Chinese doesn’t seem very understandable...

Mogao, the end of the road for the Han Yesterday, near Dunhuang, I went to Mogao, a complex of decorated caves with Buddha sculptures and paintings. Stunning, but so crowded! Luckily, here in Turpan, Chinese tourists barely venture out. So I visited a Silk Road ghost town with only a handful of other visitors and under a howling wind.

The modern Chinese city is swallowing up the old Uyghur neighborhoods—only a museum-like district remains in the center, and pockets of resistance on the outskirts are doomed to disappear soon. More photos...

8- KASHGAR A (relative) love at first sight for the old city Sunday, September 2 After three overnight trains, here I am in the far west of China, nearly 4,000 km from the capital. Despite the omnipresent police and an old city preserved UNESCO-style, Kashgar is my Chinese love at first sight.



Finally, Chinese... well, sort of, because we’re in Uyghur territory here—a Turkic people with nothing culturally in common with the Han, the eastern Chinese. It started badly yesterday at Turfan station, where after three security gate passes, at least five passport checks, and a bag search, three adorable policewomen confiscated my antibacterial lotion because it had a flammable logo...

Then came the welcoming committee of armed cops at Kashgar station. Once all that was over, they left me alone—except you still have to go through security checks like everyone else to enter the old city, the bazaar, the livestock market... The further west you go, the more the siege mentality is evident. Luckily, the border isn’t far...

Despite the inevitable destruction-reconstruction, the city center has been well preserved. Thankfully, because it’s a very original style, a mix of local and colonial. I love it, even if it’s a bit too artificial, sanitized, and watered-down, and rather empty of residents. On the Silk Road, the city was famous for its great food. And it still is—rarely have I seen such richness and abundance of food! And not just scorpions or snakes. More photos...

9- KASHGAR China’s recipe for controlling the populace Saturday, September 1 Xinjiang, along with Tibet, is a "sensitive" area of rebellion in the eyes of Chinese authorities. As a result, the state has these regions and their populations under total control. Tourists also feel the consequences, even if they’re not at risk of re-education camps.

- Putting barbed wire and anti-ramming barriers around sensitive sites (schools, big hotels, government buildings...) - Installing traffic surveillance gates with cameras and photo flashes (for all vehicles passing, including bikes) throughout the city and even in the countryside - Posting uniformed guards with tasers, batons, or huge baseball bats every 100 meters - Training the Han population (ethnic Chinese) in self-defense with sticks, preferably in the morning on the street. Men and women of all ages - Starting school with the national anthem, doing military exercises, and receiving political indoctrination, all neatly lined up in the courtyard. (The dream school for any teacher) - Placing a snitch in uniform (a pseudo-guard) in public gathering places, like youth hostels. Mine spends the day loafing around the courtyard - Putting Chinese flags everywhere on the streets to remind everyone who’s in charge - Installing security gates at every entrance to areas frequented by tourists (thanks for that) but not just there - Never photographing cops, or else! I tried, but it’s not easy...

With all that, you can stroll around safely Not much crime! As for the amount the Chinese state spends to maintain such a system, it’s staggering! A third of the Han living in Xinjiang work in security. Today, I wandered freely around old Kashgar, which is quite large after all. More photos...

10- TASHKURGAN What on earth was I thinking going there! Wednesday, September 5 First, there’s the taxi—pretty crappy, with a driver who doesn’t speak a word of English and won’t stop smoking. Over six hours in that... shared with a completely out-of-it American.



Then there are all the checkpoints along the way. I won’t go on—you know the drill by now.

After that, there’s Tashkurgan—a town with nothing to see, nothing to do. Deserted as soon as night falls. There’s this huge youth hostel and a few lost Chinese tapping away on their smartphones, chain-smoking. This lost American-European crowd, swapping tips on how to enter Pakistan or Tajikistan.

Luckily, there’s the Chinese Pamir Highway, lined with peaks over 7,000m. There’s the feeling of no longer being in China, with a population whose features are Middle Eastern. And these Tajik women with their stunning hairstyles and vibrant costumes. There’s the fact of having reached the westernmost Chinese city, far from crowds and tourist sites. A sort of end of the world. More photos...

11- KYRGYZ BORDER A surreal epic Thursday, September 6 The road from Kashgar to the Kyrgyzstan border is a little over 200 km and passes through beautiful landscapes of colorful, desert-like mountains with acrobatic folds. That’s the bucolic part of the trip.

Yesterday, I managed to gather four people to rent a minibus to reach the border more easily: a Spaniard and an Argentine I’d already met in Turpan, and two New Zealanders who responded to the ad left at the hostel.

Absurdity and paranoia of Chinese authorities The highlight was crossing the town of Wuqia, 50 km past Kashgar. After tallying up with my fellow sufferers, we must’ve passed about ten checkpoints with: - Passport checks: 14 times, sometimes by two cops side by side - Bag checks: 4 times - Smartphone checks: 2 times, with deletion of "non-compliant" photos, and registration of your IMEI in the exit log!... Absurd and surreal at the same time, since my camera stayed in my bag, my apps are in French, and my photos have been online for ages...

With all that, we arrived just as the last checkpoint before the no man’s land marking the border between the two countries was on lunch break. And bam! Another 1.5-hour wait, alongside truckers who were much more used to this than we were.

What to think? The cops themselves aren’t fooled. They play the role they’re asked to, but sometimes you can coax a smile out of them—they realize how ridiculous the situation is.

What’s the point? That’s the big question my companions and I were tempted to answer with "to piss people off." To show you your place isn’t here, but with the other tourists, over there in the east, in Shanghai, Xi’an, or Guangzhou.

As for you, a traveler from a democratic country, you really experience this as aggression, humiliation, a violation of your private space. And yet, I’m respected, they speak to me properly. Today, I better understand what a Palestinian or a citizen of an occupied country might feel daily. A unique experience! Thanks, China.

And to top it off, the cherry on the cake! It’s still this glowing button you press to rate your passage after clearing the last obstacle before the exit stamp. I was so surprised it turned off before I could react. The Spaniard, with great humor and irony, had time to vote "excellent." In the end, he wasn’t wrong—you can hardly do better!

PS: I ditched my buddies at the border. They didn’t want to pay for a taxi to continue. So I took a direct taxi to Osh. The first 100 km are fabulous. I couldn’t take many photos, but I’ll be back on Monday to go to Tajikistan.

More photos...

The rest of the Silk Road, Part 2, in these travel journals: Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan.
Trek à cheval et transports collectifs (Russie - Ouzbékistan ou Kirghizistan)
by Framboisett · 2020-02-29 · 1 reply
Bonjour, Je projette un voyage en solo en Russie et le combiner avec l'Ouzbekistan ou le Kirghizistan. J'aimerais avoir des témoignages d'expériences sur le transsibérien pour rejoindre Irkousk pas forcément depuis Moscou d'ailleurs Et sur les transports collectifs pour se déplacer dans ces pays, et d'une région/ d'un pays à l'autre.

Je pense partir 6 à 7semaines, mais entre août et septembre, et bien sûr se pose la question de l'afflux de touristes à cette période, et du climat. Quelqu'un a-t-il fait un séjour dans le camp;"Golden Camel Camp dans l'Altaï? Et des infos sur de possibles randonnées à cheval dans cette région? Et j'hésite entre l'Ouzbekistan et le Kirghizistan comme 2è destination, le Kirghizistan pour une rando équestre, quoique les différents témoignages me donnent quelques doutes quant au sérieux des agences locales...🤪, et l'Ouzbékistan pour la route de la soir bien sûr! Merci d'avance pour vos retours!
Double entrée au Kazakhstan (Ouzbékistan)
by Tragelu · 2020-02-14 · 6 replies
Bonjour, Le Kazakhstan n'exige pas de visa pour un séjour n'excédant pas 30 jours. Peut-on, à l'intérieur de ce laps de temps, arriver dans ce pays puis passer en Ouzbékistan, et, enfin, revenir au Kazakhstan ? Merci pour votre aide.
Transports en commun Margilan - Och - Lac Son Koul - Bichkek
by Norbertmgt · 2020-01-30 · 4 replies
Salut à tous ! Après un périple de 15 jours en Ouzbékistan ( mai 2020 ), j'envisage de poursuivre une semaine au Kirghizistan. Quelques questions m'interrogent : 1) question d'actualité, la frontière entre Andijan et Och est-elle la plus pratique et est-elle toujours ouverte ? autre possibilité pour rejoindre Och depuis Margilan ?

2) J'ai lu pas mal de post sur les trajets au Kirghizistan mais la plupart effectués en voiture de location. Qu'en est-il en transport en commun sur l'axe Och - Jalalabad - Kazarman - Lac Son Koul - Kotchkor - Bichkek ?

3) On parle d'une nouvelle route Nord-Sud justement , est-elle terminée dans son ensemble ? Y a-t-il problème de circulation en début Juin ( question météo ) ?

4) Autres lieux et sites à découvrir sur cet axe ? Trouve-t-on facilement des taxis partagés ou autre comme en Ouzbékistan ?

5) Peut-on facilement trouver à organiser un ou deux jours de détente-découverte dans la région du lac ( campement bien situé et facile d'accés ( approche en véhicule ... pas trop trekkeur ! 😕 ) ? A partir de quelle ville ou village ? ( je pensais à Kazarman en venant du Sud ...) Merci d'avance pour les nombreuses réponses qui vont venir ... 😉 😉 😉
Trajet, coût et durée Baku-Tachkent-Baku
by Dedebb · 2019-12-03 · 2 replies
bonjour à tous je cherche le moyen le plus pratique ( coût - durée) pour faire Baku Tachkent en aller-retour sans passer par l'iran un lien pour des billets serait le bienvenu merci

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