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Thaïlande ou Mexique? English translation pending
by Sophie2302 · 2005-01-26 · 5 replies
bonjour, j'ai besoin de conseils😕.On me propose une année scolaire au mexique ou en thailande. le problème pour le mexique c'est que je ne parle pas espagnol et que je n'aimerai pas l'apprendre. le problème avec la thailande c'est plus de la peur qu'autre chose.Habitant en France et n'ayant que 17ans, je crains ne pas avoir assez de courage😐

que me conseilleriez vous???Mexique?Thailande?ni l'un ni l'autre?

merci de laisser un message 🙂
Je prépare mes valises pour Bayahibe English translation pending
by OPB · 2004-12-20 · 18 replies
😏 Départ pour BAYAHIBE est à j-6, je suis donc en train de réfléchir à ce que je vais pouvoir mettre dans mes valises

Qui revient de BAYAHIBE ? quel temps fait il ? comment sont les soirées fraiches ou pas ....

Merci d'avance pour toutes vos réponses
Payer en dollars au Cambodge? English translation pending
by Soho · 2004-10-29 · 11 replies
Un copain à moi m'a dit qu'au Cambodge il faut payer en dollars et que la monnaies nous est rendues en argent local. Mais voilà il à fait le Cambodge il y a 4 ans et j'aimerais savoir si c'est toujours le cas ou si maintenant avec la valeur de l'Euro face au dollars on peut payer directement en Euros? Faut t-il changer des euros ou des dollars en monnais Cambodgienne à la frontière (j'arrive au Cambodge par la voie terrestre en provenance de Bangkok)?
Visas et transports de Syrie en Égypte English translation pending
by Dilo2011 · 2004-10-17 · 8 replies
Je sais bien que les reponses viennent les unes apres les autres en voyage, je sais aussi que je pourrai trouver toutes mes reponses en dechiffrant tous les messages mais voila si vous pouvez me repondre direct - que de temps gagne... Alors j'ai quitte la France voila 6 mois tout doucement et je suis en Bulgarie avec mon sac. Je desire continuer d'avancer cet hiver mais vers le Sud. Peut-on avoir les visas Syrie-Liban-Jordanie (je crois qu'on peut avoir ce visa a la frontiere)-Egypte a Ankara (ou Istanbul) ? excusez mon ignorance-premiers visas. Existe-t-il un passage a Agapa pour l'Egypte ? ou sinon un bateau Berouth-Alexandrie ? Puis un bateau Egypte-Crete ou grece ? et enfin tant que j'y suis, quelqu'un connait-il une petite adresse sympa et evidement prix cheaper a Istanbul, c'est grand et avec 20 kilos sur le dos, c'est chiant de chercher. Evidement je n'ai pas de routard ni autre guide...trop de pays, trop de circonstances. Je prefere etre guide par les gens... merci d'avance et bien content d'apprendre a voyager aujourd'hui!
Palladium palace (ancien fiesta palace ) English translation pending
by Ducat · 2004-09-07 · 3 replies
Qui peut me dire ou en sont les renovations de cet hotel ?

Mercid' avance Eric
Aménager un ford transit de 1978 English translation pending
by Diabolic · 2004-08-11 · 6 replies
salut a tous

g un ford transit de 1978 que je suis en trein d'amenager

je galere un peut pour pour la disposition et les dimention des meuble (banquette lit frigo ect...) qui peut m'aider. merci d'avance.
Sac à dos ou valise pour l'Asie Sud-Est? English translation pending
by Noe · 2004-08-03 · 7 replies
Bonjour,

Question pour un Champion :

A votre avis pour un voyage de huit mois en pays tropical (Asie du Sud Est) que vaut-il mieux ?

a) Un sac à dos type randonée 65-70 littres

b) Deux sacs avec un de 25 littres et un de 55 littres

c) Les deux : un de25 littres et un de 65-70 littres (pour mettre le petit dans le grand)

Alors...

P.S.: Aucun gain n'est à la clé. 😉
Sirenis Tropical Suites English translation pending
by Inséparables · 2004-07-13 · 8 replies
😉Salut à tous

Je suis rentrée hier de 2 semaines au Sirenis Tropical Suites à Punta Cana. Je n'ai qu'une seule choses à dire "Allez-y sans hésitation".

C'est un superbe complexe 5* où tout est prévu pour le plaisir des touristes: superbes chambres bien entretenues, nourriture très variée, plage magnifique et immense piscine, et pardessus tout un personnel hyper gentil.

Je me posais pleins de questions avant de partir, j'en ai même posées plein sur ce forum. Alors à mon tour maintenant de vous rassurer et de vous dire que je suis prête à y retourner dès que le porte-monnaie me le permettra.

Alors à vous tous qui allez bientôt partir, bonnes vacances

MARIE 😛
Scoot ou enfield en Inde? English translation pending
by Claiwoune · 2004-07-06 · 7 replies
est ce que vous pensez que c est de la folie d acheter un bajaj plutot qu une enfield pour faire de la route en inde (genre delhi-darhamsala et pui redescendre dans le sud)?

est ce que quelqu un l a fait et est revenu avec un cul en bon etat?

merci
La route de la soie à pied English translation pending
by Jipetbri · 2004-01-30 · 9 replies
je conseille à tous, les trois tomes de Bernard Ollivier sur son périple fait en 4 ans, seul et à pied, de Istanbul à Xian.

Fabuleusement écrit, des description précises de ce qu'il voit, ce qu'il pense, ses doutes, ses craintes, ses élans d'enthousiasme...

A dévorer sans modération.
Hébergement à San Blas (Panama) English translation pending
by Vivaquebec · 2004-01-15 · 1 reply
Bonjour à tous !

Je retourne au Panama au mois de mars et il y a de fortes chances que je visite les iles San blas quelques jours. J'aimerais savoir si il y a des places économiques pour dormir comme on peut en trouver à Bocas?
Pratiquer mon espagnol... English translation pending
by Diamazone · 2003-12-31 · 5 replies
Petite question utile...??

Y a t-il un site sur Internet qui nous permet de pratiquer notre espagnol...? des phrases utiles et usuelles pour les voyageurs...? Être capable de se faire comprendre et même de converser simplement p-être...

À l'école, il y a lonnnnngtemps de cela....j'avais suivi 2 ans d'espagnol, mais c'était il y a 30 ans, et ne pouvant le pratiquer ici au Québec, je l'ai presque tout perdu....j'adore cette langue, je sais un peu comment se prononçe les mots....mais.....j'ai oublié le vocabulaire usuel et la grammaire...je n'ai ni le temps ni le courage ni l'énergie pour prendre des cours du soir....je suis bilingue, donc l'anglais en voyage n'est pas un problème..mais c'est si bien de savoir converser avec la langue du pays, les gens apprécient cela!

Je dispose de 3 mois..donc, si vous avez des trucs ou des sites où je peux ré-apprendre cette belle langue! Merci à tous

D.
Pour ou contre le bent (vélo couché) English translation pending
by Bastoche · 2003-12-12 · 37 replies
Salut tout le monde! J'envisage dans un proche futur (tout est relatif) un tour du monde en vélo, sur plusieurs années. D'abord décidé pour le bent (ou vélo couché), je me suis ensuite redirigé vers le simple et robuste VTT, qui est surtout beaucoup moins cher... et puis là, je recommence à me poser des questions... Le bent est un vélo qui m'attire par son coté différent, mais en même temps, j'ai peur qu'il soit source de galère, par ce caractère différent justement (vol, regard des autres, mais aussi trouver les pièces de rechange, etc). Et puis je me pose aussi des questions sur la tenue de route et l'équilibre que l'on peut avoir sur tous les terrain (piste défoncée, route mouillée et glissante, pente ou montée très raides, verglas, etc...)

Enfin, je ne sais vers quel produit ni quel marque me diriger... j'ai aussi vu qu'il existait des tricycles... pourquoi pas, mais l'encombrement sur la route doit être beaucoup plus important, en revanche, on gagne encore en aérodynamisme... Encore une chose : Guidon en haut, ou en bas?

Bon, voila, j'espère que vous serez nombreux à me donner vos impressions, ou à me faire part de vos expérience vécues. Que ce soit positif ou négatif, n'hesitez pas, que je puisse peser le pour et le contre...

Voila, c'est tout. Bonne route à tous. Bastoche.
Le Transsibérien, extraits de carnets de route English translation pending
by Loopkin · 2003-12-09 · 14 replies
Bonjour à tous.

Voici un premier extrait de mes carnets de route écrits pendant mon voyage dans le Transsibérien. Il s'agit d'une rencontre surréaliste. Cette rencontre n'a pas eu lieu dans le train lui-même, mais dans un restaurant à Ekaterinburg (anciennement Sverdlovsk).

Mercredi 10/09/03

Ekaterinbourg

Restaurant “Sunday” 13 :30 LOC 11 :30 MOS

Sverdlovsk est bien un trou, j’en ai maintenant la certitude, et à part deux trois jolis bâtiments et la cathédrale fraîchement reconstruite des Romanov, il n’y a rien à voir ; on en regrette presque de s’y être arrêté. Certes, le temps ne joue pas en la faveur de l’impression que peut donner la ville au voyageur solitaire à petit budget, sans parapluie, que je suis (horreur des parapluies). Cette ville n’est pas faite pour les étrangers, ni pour les piétons. Or, je suis piéton, étranger. Tout ici, est assez difficile. Trouver un cyber (Siber ?) café est une aventure plus ardue que je ne l’aurais pensé, dégotter un petit restaurant bon marché où s’asseoir, au sec, est un vrai défi. Tout est payant, des toilettes de la gare, par ailleurs au plus bas de l’échelle absolue de la saleté des toilettes déjà visités dans ma vie, au bout de pain du restaurant où je suis finalement, d’ailleurs assez cher pour la qualité. En gros, les prix de Moscou. Ce restaurant est un fast-food aux allures de kebab parisien, avec des plats russes, et un décor de jardin zen, si on fait abstraction de l’inévitable télé à clips qui braille dans un coin.

Avoir à tuer douze heures dans cette ville, sans endroit où pouvoir se poser tranquillement au sec, sans payer, est une perspective relativement désagréable. Si seulement il ne pleuvait pas ! Je pourrais m’allonger dans l’herbe sauvage d’un parc de la ville, un de ces parcs où il y a tellement peu de passages qu’on en finit par avoir de fortes montées d’adrénaline à la seule rencontre avec un chien errant au regard fuyant.

Ce qui réconforte, comme partout dans ce pays, ce sont les belles filles. Je suis assis dans ce restaurant mi-sushi, mi fast-food russe étrange, et mon attention est souvent perturbée par des passages non loin de ma table. Se dire que la plupart de ces belles filles sont seules, et luttent pour se trouver un homme rend malade. Hier soir encore, dans le cyber café que j’avais fini par trouver, finalement, une magnifique blonde était sur un site de rencontre. Si j’avais résidé dans cette ville, je l’aurais aidé volontiers ! Et là, à mes deux heures, une femme seule est attablée, et une autre, plus jeune, s’installe une table plus loin. C’est terrible ! Mais que font les hommes ! Et je ne parle pas des filles accompagnées. Que les hommes sont chanceux dans ce pays ! Mais le concept même de drague, tout au moins dans les lieux publics, semble avoir été oublié. A part, hier, où Volodia a abordé une femme qui attendait dans la gare comme lui, je n’ai pas vu d’entreprise masculine de rapprochement. Où sont les méditerranéens ?

Bon, l’une des filles seules ne l’était pas. Elle était la première au rendez-vous, nuance. Deux hommes charmants viennent de la rejoindre.

Je vais demander à cette femme seule, attablée juste à côté de moi, qui lit, si elle connaît un musée intéressant pas trop loin.
Voyager seule au Moyen-Orient English translation pending
by Snounit · 2003-12-08 · 30 replies
Coucou 🙂!

L'an prochain, si tout va bien, je pars au Moyen-Orient et plus precisement au Liban. Parce que je serai sur place une année, je compte bien découvrir les pays limitrophes du Liban (ou plus loin si j'ai le temps).Cependant; on me déconseille de partir seule en Jordanie ou en Syrie car il n'est pas dans les habitudes de laisser une femme voyager sans "escorte" et qu'au pire on pourrait me prendre pour une prostituée ! Est-ce bien réel? Est-ce qu'il est vraiment préférable que je sois accompagnée? Et quand est-il pour l'Iran (pays que je souhaite vraiment visiter) ? Le Liban est t-il, lui aussi, un pays "déconseillé" pour une femme seule?

Sur ce; bon chat et bon voyage à tous!

Snounit.
Qui revient du Casa del mar? English translation pending
by Magcats · 2003-11-28 · 2 replies
🙂Bonjour, je vais décider de réserver mon séjour cette semaine, et hésitant entre Ibérostar Hacienda Dominicus et Casa del mar,

j'aimerai avoir des Nouvelles fraiches de cet hotel, est il vrai qu'on y fait des travaux en ce moment?

la plage?l'animation? la restauration?il y a une difference de prix à la réservation😛donc je ne voudrai pas me planter....🙁

merci beaucoup
Torture de milliers d'ours en Chine English translation pending
by David · 2003-01-30 · 38 replies
🙁Prenez quelques minutes SVP pour lire ce message de la plus grande importance.

Des ours sont sous torture dans 247 « fermes » mises en place par le gouvernement chinois depuis 20 ans pour extraire 7 000 litres de leur bile par an. La bile d’ours est utilisée dans des remèdes, du vin, des shampooings et des aphrodisiaques. Pourtant, il existe des produits de substitution. Plus de 100 000 litres de bile de synthèse sont commercialisés chaque année.

Une preuve de la grande détresse des ours dans ces fermes est le comportement des mères ourses qui vont jusqu’à tuer leurs bébés dès la naissance. Cette mortalité n’empêche pas les fermiers de continuer leur commerce ignoble avec des oursons capturés dans la nature.

😕Les braconniers profitent de l’absence de la mère, partie en quête de nourriture, pour enlever les oursons âgés de quelques jours. Parfois la mère est tuée et un grand nombre de bébés meurent de ce traumatisme

Les survivants sont parqués dans un enclos pour les habituer à leur futur enfermement dans une cage étroite. Puis, à l’âge de 3 ans, ils subissent une opération qui les mutile à vie. Les fermiers implantent un cathéter dans la vésicule biliaire pour drainer leur bile. Ce tube reste en permanence, et laisse une plaie à vif qui s’infecte et n’est jamais soignée. Quatre ours sur cinq meurent pendant ou après l’opération d’implantation.

🙁Les ours qui survivent sont transférés dans des cages si petites qu’ils ne peuvent ni bouger, ni même se coucher. Pour exprimer leur angoisse et leur souffrance, ils n’ont pas d’autres choix que de se cogner la tête contre les barreaux et de se mordre les pattes jusqu’au sang. Ces gestes de grande détresse entraînent de graves infections. Comprimés dans les cages, parfois jusqu’à l’écrasement de leurs organes, les ours subissent deux fois par jour la torture de l’extraction. Elle est effectuée pendant qu’ils sont nourris et abreuvés, pour stimuler la bile. Les ours gémissent, hurlent et se tordent de douleur, en se tenant l’estomac.

Pour voyager intelligement et ne pas etre le complice d'une torture immonde, prenez quelques minutes pour visiter ce site :

http://www.onevoice-ear.org/

Merci beaucoup. Mon seul but est de vous informer.

David😐
Kyrgyzstan: Practical Information 2026
by Attila · 2026-07-04 · 24 replies
Recent information about this country is scarce, so I’m starting this post in addition to my travel journal to help fill the gap.

- Which airline from Europe?

Turkish Airlines seems like an excellent option. The price is very reasonable (just over 500 €), the layover isn’t too long, the in-flight comfort is decent (great movie selection), and the planes are modern. Plus, the price automatically includes 30 kilos of luggage, which is perfect for campers.

The downside: the outrageous prices at Istanbul Airport.

- Bishkek Airport

The airport is under full reconstruction. It’s chaotic. There are SIM card vendors upon arrival, but no currency exchange or ATMs in the baggage claim area. You’ll find those in the departures section, which means you have to exit and re-enter under the current setup.

Personally, I pre-booked a VTC with my hotel for the transfer to the city. (Prices vary depending on the hotel’s standard—1200 soms for mine.)

There are taxis and a bus available.

- Entry Requirements

No visa is required for French citizens for stays of up to 30 days.

- Currency

The currency is the som, and the conversion is easy—just divide by 100...

You can get soms by exchanging euros (dollars are useless) or by withdrawing from an ATM. Some ATMs charge fees. Those from Mbank and Optimabank are fee-free.

The maximum withdrawal is usually 20,000 soms.

Bills come in 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 soms.

Coins: 10, 5, 3, and 1 som.

- Paying

Card payments are accepted in supermarkets like Globus, some restaurants, gas stations of major chains (Bishkek Petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum), some hotels, national park entrances, tolls, etc.

But it doesn’t always work.

So always carry cash with you!

If the card works, great—otherwise, it’s back to the old days of wads of bills.

- Cost of Living

It’s really cheap (gas, affordable restaurants even at a decent standard, hotels, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, water, bread...). For example, a lagman costs only 3.20 €, fixing a flat tire is 3.5 €, a full hour-long wash for a filthy 4x4 is 6 €, washing a big bag of laundry is 3 €, and a liter of 95-octane gas is 0.86 €...

On the pricier side: guesthouses and meals in guesthouses. The value for money is poor. I paid 40 € for a mediocre room with a very basic shared bathroom, while a double with AC, private bathroom, and fridge in a non-touristy hotel cost 20 €... Meals in guesthouses are the worst I’ve eaten and often the most expensive. Plus, they’re very light—don’t expect to fill up after a long day of hiking!

Car rentals are also quite expensive (70 $ per day for a RAV4 in my case).

In short, for two people, excluding accommodation and car rental, we spent an average of 45 € per day (groceries, restaurants, guesthouse dinners, souvenirs, paid activities, gas).

The trip cost us 2200 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks on the ground. Roughly 1/4 for the flight, 1/4 for the car, 1/4 for accommodation, and 1/4 for everything else.

- Getting Around

I’ve met cyclists, motorcyclists, people renting cars, those who drove their own vehicles from Europe, and others using public transport and taxis.

Personally, I chose to rent a car.

If you’re not planning long hikes or multi-day horse treks, it’s a great option for exploring the country.

Each car rental company has its own list of forbidden tracks. Make sure your planned route is allowed! Don’t think about ignoring this—vehicles are equipped with GPS trackers...

An international driver’s permit is required.

Police and speed cameras are everywhere, so it’s best to respect the signs (daytime running lights, seatbelts, 40-60 km/h in populated areas, 90 km/h on roads, zero tolerance for alcohol).

Locals have a unique driving style, and it can be dangerous on main roads (they overtake recklessly...). Like in Greece, South Africa, or Malta, a two-lane road is treated as a three-lane one. You pull over to let others pass or to let oncoming traffic overtake.

Without a car (at least a pseudo-4x4), you won’t be able to go everywhere. This country is a nature destination, but nature isn’t always accessible by public transport.

If a spot is near a road, great—the bus will get you almost to the door. Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an agency or take a taxi.

Cyclists will face steep climbs and dust. I’d advise avoiding main roads as much as possible—traffic isn’t on your side...

Motorcyclists will also eat a lot of dust and should research gas stations along their route (this advice also applies to vehicles running on 95-octane).

There’s a 95-octane pump in Kazarman and Gulcha.

Bikes and motorcycles have an advantage over cars, even 4x4s, as they can access some very remote tracks that other vehicles can’t (hikers and horses can obviously take them too!).

Be careful: some areas require a permit (border zones). Research this well in advance—the formalities don’t take an hour or even a day!

Be warned: Google Maps is completely unreliable (it shows roads that don’t exist, routes you through difficult tracks instead of paved roads, etc.). It’s essential to download Maps.me in advance. This app is much more reliable for this country, works offline, and is handy for hiking navigation.

A reminder: horseback riding is like cycling... If you’re not used to it or naturally padded in the right places, your backside will suffer in no time!

Think carefully before embarking on a multi-day trek!

Finally, this country is a kingdom of construction... The Chinese have taken over the market to improve truck circulation and are paving everywhere. (Good news: the Kazarman-Osh section via the tunnel is finally open in summer, even if the road isn’t quite finished.)

- Eating

I had prejudices about Kyrgyz food.

I was both wrong and right.

Supermarkets don’t offer much that’s appealing for picnics. It’s cheap, filling food, full of junk, and not gourmet. If you follow Yuka, I think you’ll be on a diet the whole trip. Bringing some pâté, sausages, or freeze-dried meals for certain nights is a good idea...

Guesthouse dinners consist of the eternal cucumber-tomato salad, a soup, and a light noodle or rice dish where you’ll be searching for the meat... Usually tough and unidentifiable. Beef? The bread is stale, and there’s no dessert or fruit.

Breakfasts always revolve around eggs or porridge... The homemade jam is usually good.

Tea is the number one drink, followed by kompot (a fruit-based drink), Coke, and Fanta.

If you want real coffee, bring your own—it’s very rare.

On the other hand, you eat well in restaurants. Lagman (homemade noodles, vegetables, spices, and usually beef), crispy eggplant, kuurdak (a kind of lamb stew with potatoes), kebabs, plov (pilaf rice with onions, carrots, and meat), and rainbow trout... For dessert? Nada!

And alcohol?

It’s available in all Globus stores: beer, wine, spirits, and you can consume your purchases in some guesthouses (depending on the owner’s religious tolerance). It’s also available in some restaurants (Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).

The deadly specialty?

White fermented milk balls called kurut. If you think a raw-milk camembert is strong, steer clear! This is more like an old, dry, spicy goat cheese.

- Accommodation

In remote areas, it’s better to check availability on Booking a few days in advance rather than showing up last minute with high hopes.

Booking and Airbnb only offer a small portion of what’s available.

Not necessarily guesthouses, but mostly accommodations aimed at locals (business or leisure travel).

These places are generally more comfortable. There’s even some upscale options.

So it’s necessary to scour Google Maps or Yandex Maps... These accommodations are usually found on Instagram, and WhatsApp is handy for booking!

Prices are a bit of a lottery. So is the comfort. From 20 to 80 € for a double, usually with a private bathroom. (Average around 40 €). These rates are for mid-range options.

Otherwise, this country is a paradise for wild camping. In a camper van, rooftop tent, or ground tent... There are beautiful spots everywhere!

- Climate

I thought it would be quite cool/cold at altitude.

I packed too many warm clothes...

If you’re not doing high-altitude treks or sleeping in a tent, there’s no need to overload yourself with winter gear.

A good fleece, a windproof rain jacket, and technical base layers will be enough.

It only got really cold in the evenings at Song Kul Lake and Tash Rabat, and the yurts are equipped with thick blankets and a stove.

Elsewhere, temperatures ranged from 15 to 30 °C.

In short, I used the AC more than the heater! (It’s hard to drive with the windows open unless you want to be covered in dust in no time...)

- Communication

I bought an eSIM before the trip with a data plan for Kyrgyzstan (Beeline network). Perfect for communicating via WhatsApp right after landing, but this network isn’t the best in Kyrgyzstan.

We then got a physical SIM card with an unlimited one-month plan (less than 4 € including the SIM) at a Mega store downtown. This network is much better, and you get coverage in all cities and most villages. Usually in the mountain passes too.

To make yourself understood, it’s essential to download Google Translate with French, Kyrgyz, Russian, and English options.

Very useful for translating menus, signs, and communicating with locals.

Hosts and other tourism professionals will even pull out their phones to communicate with non-Russian speakers.

The police too...

- Religion

There’s a noticeable difference between the north and the southwest of the country.

In the north, it’s a bit like Albania. People are Muslim by culture but not really by religion.

In the southwest, radical Islam is growing. Mosques are more numerous and imposing. Men are more bearded, women more veiled.

For travelers, religion isn’t an issue except for the near-total absence of pork.

There’s Russian sausage, but reading the ingredient list, it’s more like a one-way ticket to cancer than an Auvergne dry sausage...



You can find the detailed account of the trip here.
Getting around in the Dominican Republic: is renting a car possible or too risky?
by Provenza24 · 2026-09-16 · 4 replies
hi there,

I’m heading to the Dominican Republic (Punta Cana) at the end of October for 10 days at an all-inclusive hotel with my wife and kids (ages 8 and 10). Since I’m not a fan of spending entire days at the hotel, I was wondering what the best way(s) to explore the area might be.

Last year, I went to Mexico and rented a car, so I initially thought about doing the same here—but this time, I’d get full-coverage insurance, which I didn’t do in Mexico. After checking a few forums and reviews, though, I’m really second-guessing it because some posts make it sound completely crazy to drive there.

So, I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been there recently and rented a car, as well as the different ways to get around while you’re there.

Thanks everyone! !
Single Russia-Belarus visa and new train routes
by Esantirulo · 2026-06-03 · 36 replies
Since last year, the unification of the Russian visa with Belarus has been in effect. For reference, EU citizens haven’t needed a visa for Belarus for two years. However, it wasn’t possible to travel to Russia. Only Belarusian and Russian citizens could move freely within the union.

With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.

In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.

This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.

It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.

So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.



This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.

The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.

Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.

Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue.
https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html

These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.

Short stop in Bali: stay in Denpasar or go to Ubud?
by Cerelinde · 2026-04-05 · 32 replies
Hi everyone,

This September, my partner and I are heading to North Sulawesi for 3 weeks. Our international flight is with Malaysia Airlines, departing from Paris. We have a layover in KL, then fly to Denpasar, followed by a domestic flight from Denpasar to Manado. We land in Bali Denpasar on 05/09 around 12:00 PM, and our flight to Manado is on 07/09 at 1:30 AM. The plan was to have at least one night (from the 5th to the 6th of September) between our international flight and our flight to Manado, just to recharge a bit since we're not 20 anymore 😛. My question is, given the very short stop in Bali (a day and a half), is it better to stay in Denpasar rather than go to Ubud for the night? I’ve been to Bali before, and from what I remember, even though the distances are short, transfers take a long time because of the extremely heavy traffic—but I was there in July, not September. I’m not sure if that makes a big difference? If the answer is "it’s better to stay in Denpasar," are there any nice places to visit? There’s very little feedback about the city since tourists usually don’t stick around. Thanks in advance for your replies.
A Bold Combo: Southern Peru, Bolivia, and Northern Chile
by Marati · 2026-03-18 · 127 replies
Hello everyone,

For our latest 3-week family trip (yes, the kids are growing up, and two of them are about to enter the working world), we’re heading to South America! For our first time on this continent, I had planned a classic 3-week loop in Peru.

But since we won’t be returning to this part of the world anytime soon, I thought: why not follow in the footsteps of Franck, aka Bibouns51, who, in 18 days, didn’t just stick to Peru but also added two of the planet’s most stunning landscapes to his itinerary... the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia and its neighbor, the fabulous Atacama Desert in northern Chile !!

So, I set about the tricky task of limiting the regions we’d visit in Peru to those we considered must-sees, to avoid rushing too much. The visit schedules were optimized, including several comfortable overnight buses that have the huge advantage of letting us hop between regions.

So, we’re off on a somewhat adventurous trip with three domestic flights (two on the first day and one on the last), two overnight buses for quick hops, several car rentals, the services of a few drivers to make the trip more comfortable, and even a tour operator for crossing the Salar...

Our main concern is altitude sickness, and we’re bringing Diamox, aspirin, etc., just in case.

Our second worry before departure was not even getting off the ground... Yes, for once, we’re leaving from France—Marseille, to be exact. The week before our departure, with the surprise air traffic controllers’ strike, I remembered why we usually prefer to leave from abroad, like Turin or Barcelona... In the end, it wasn’t the air traffic controllers who made us nervous but the early July wildfires that paralyzed the airport a few days before our departure. Fortunately, the fires were quickly brought under control, and on the big day, everything was smooth sailing!

Detailed itinerary (which changed on Day 1 due to departure hiccups): Day 0: Flight Marseille - Madrid - Lima PERU Theoretical and abandoned Day 1: Flight Lima - Cuzco and visit Cuzco (Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, Cristo Blanco Observatory, Sacsayhuaman sunset) - Night in Cuzco Day 2: Taxi -> Chinchero - Moray - Maras Salt Mines - Ollantaytambo - Train to Aguas Calientes Day 3: Machu Picchu - Return train to Ollantaytambo Day 4: 2-day taxi -> Pisac - Tipon - Andahuaylillas - Huaro - Night in San Pedro Day 5: Palcoyo - Checacupe - Vinicunca - Return and night in Cuzco Day 6: Day in Cuzco (catch-up on Sacsayhuaman, San Blas district, Temple of the Sun) - Overnight bus to Arequipa Day 7: Rental car -> On the road to Colca Canyon, night in Cabanaconde Day 8: Descent to the bottom of Colca Canyon, night at Oasis Sangalle Day 9: Ascent from the canyon - Maca - Chivay - Return and night in Arequipa Day 10: Visit Arequipa (Santa Catalina Convent, La Recoleta Church and Monastery, La Compañía Church, Cathedral) - Overnight bus to Puno Day 11: Lake Titicaca - Night in Puno BOLIVIA Day 12: Shared taxi -> Road to La Paz, visit downtown La Paz - Night 1 in La Paz Day 13: Moon Valley and Las Animas Valley - Night 2 in La Paz Day 14: Day in La Paz - Night 3 in La Paz Day 15: Flight to Uyuni - Day 1 of Salar de Uyuni tour - Night at the edge of the Salar Day 16: Crossing the Lipez region and lagoons - Night near Laguna Colorada Day 17: Sol de Mañana CHILE Day 17 cont.: Pre-booked transfer to SPDA - 4x4 rental - Pukara de Quitor - Stargazing tour - Night 1 in SPDA Day 18: Death Valley and Moon Valley - Night 2 in SPDA Day 19: Miscanti and Miniques Lagoons, Salar de Aguas Calientes and its Piedra Roja, Tebenquiche Lagoon and Quebrada del Diablo - Night 3 in SPDA Day 20: Rainbow Valley and swim in the Puritama River - Night 4 in SPDA Day 21: Tebenquiche Lagoon - Bus to Calama - Flight to Santiago Day 22: Return Santiago - Madrid - Marseille

Day 0 - 11/07: Destination Lima

Our first flight from Marseille went smoothly to our Iberia layover in Madrid.

In Madrid, just after getting off the plane around 8 PM, and as we were walking through the terminal, we got a rude awakening!!

We saw the word "Cancelled" next to our flight number on the display boards. Thinking it must be a glitch, we checked another screen, but the system was stubborn, and the same dreaded word appeared !

So, we headed to the Iberia counter, where an agent confirmed that our Friday evening flight was canceled and rescheduled for the next morning. The reason? A breakdown and no replacement plane, even though we were in Madrid, Iberia’s home base!

To make matters worse, I remembered our super-tight schedule, planned to the minute, with no buffer day in Lima. Since I’m a bit phobic of megacities and hadn’t found anything appealing in the Peruvian capital in our guidebooks, we’d planned to leave Lima as soon as possible for Cusco, the heart of the Sacred Valley, to spend our first day there.

Bad idea, because we already knew the 4-hour buffer wouldn’t be enough, and we’d miss the domestic flight, which was, of course, non-refundable and non-changeable. So, we had to call LATAM from Madrid to find another flight for Saturday evening and negotiate a rate to recover some of our initial outlay.

After an hour on the phone with customer service, several endless holds, and three failed attempts to dictate our credit card number over the phone to a Spaniard speaking English with a thick accent, we finally managed to confirm the transaction, securing our new flight tickets for a moderate extra cost of just 150 € total.

At first, we were pretty bummed about losing a day and incurring extra fees to reschedule the domestic flight, but then, when we learned from an Iberia customer service rep that we’d receive the max compensation of 600 € per traveler, we even ended up grinning... because 3000 € in refunds for only losing the first day in Cusco? We’d sign up for that 10 times over!!

Iberia then took care of us, putting us up in a hotel where we had dinner before a short 5-hour night and an early morning departure. I took the opportunity to improvise a quick day of sightseeing in Lima, focusing on the Barranco and Miraflores districts.
Tenerife trip feedback – February 2026
by Scribe2 · 2026-02-28 · 9 replies
After spending 15 days in Tenerife in February 2026, here are a few observations that might be useful for you: - Choosing Puerto de la Cruz turned out to be an excellent decision (compared to Santa Cruz, which is Lonely Planet’s pick, for example). Puerto de la Cruz has two large beaches just a 10-minute walk from the center. The atmosphere around the small port is lovely. It’s a human-scale town. The bus station makes it easy to get anywhere on the island. Carnival season is an exceptional time to visit! - Opting for the unlimited weekly bus pass for 50 € is economical (especially if you're traveling solo), eco-friendly, and practical (lots of departures and returns). The roads on major routes are often congested, and the bus network is improving—you can support this effort by traveling this way. - For hikes, I tested Teide National Park (arrival and departure by bus). Starting from El Portillo at the park entrance, the Arenas Negra circuit (2.5 to 3 hours) is stunning toward the end. You can add a section of Route 1 on the other side of the road (maps and great info at the tourist office). At the other end of the park, "Roques de Garcia" is a spectacular route—crowded but a must-see... - Tourist towns like La Orotava or La Laguna are worth the visit. Garachico has a certain charm too...
The era of travel advice: between AI, free forums, and local expertise
by VoyageForum · 2025-10-09 · 4 replies
The end of a golden age For years, travel forums embodied the spirit of mutual aid on the web. Travelers generously shared their experiences, tips, and secret spots. This collective generosity seemed endless. But behind this altruistic facade lay a more complex reality.

The silent infiltration of forums Free travel forums have gradually become marketing hunting grounds. Under the guise of "experienced travelers," professionals in tourism, affiliates seeking commissions, or aspiring influencers testing monetization strategies now lurk.

These fake profiles master the community’s codes. They build credibility by answering dozens of basic questions before subtly slipping in their paid recommendations. A "favorite" hotel mentioned insistently, an "essential" guidebook systematically cited, an "extraordinary" local agency that keeps coming up in conversations.

New travelers can no longer tell the difference between selfless advice and disguised promotion. This informational pollution has gradually eroded the trust that gave these platforms their value.

The rise of paid Travel Planners Faced with this decline, a new profession has emerged: the independent Travel Planner. These professionals fully embrace their commercial status and charge for personalized advice.

The model is transparent: you pay for real expertise, tailor-made itineraries, and guaranteed availability. Some offer packages for 150-300 € to plan a two-week trip entirely. Others charge by the hour.

This professionalization marks a turning point. Travel advice is leaving the realm of volunteerism and entering the world of paid services. Paradoxically, this acknowledged monetization can restore a form of trust: you know what you’re paying for.

The irruption of artificial intelligence But now, a third option is emerging: generative AI. ChatGPT, Claude, Gemini, and others can now generate travel itineraries in seconds, for free, with no commercial agenda.

AI promises neutral, synthetic, endlessly customizable information. It compiles thousands of sources in real time, suggests alternatives, and adapts recommendations to your budget and time constraints. It doesn’t sell anything, earns no commissions, and has no hotels to promote.

But this apparent neutrality hides its own limitations. AI feeds on existing data, often from the same polluted forums or marketing content. It can invent restaurants that don’t exist, mix up tourist seasons, or ignore recent local realities. It has never walked a city’s streets, negotiated with a tuk-tuk driver, or felt the atmosphere of a neighborhood at nightfall.

The forgotten alternative: authentic local experts In this landscape saturated with dubious information, imperfect AI, and monetized services, one often-overlooked option remains: consulting real local professionals.

Not the agencies at the top of Google’s first page—often the most expensive and generic. But small local businesses, independent guides established for years, still-free municipal tourism offices, and cultural associations organizing themed tours.

These players offer what neither AI nor forums can: embodied, up-to-date, contextualized knowledge of the area. They know the newly opened restaurant, the museum temporarily closed for renovations, the impromptu weekend festival, or the alternative route to avoid construction.

Finding them takes extra effort. You have to search in the local language, look beyond the first page of results, check regional institutional websites, and join community Facebook groups. But this approach is often rewarded with free or low-cost advice of unmatched precision.

Toward an ecology of travel advice The future of travel advice likely won’t be binary but hybrid. AI can rough out itineraries, propose logistical options, and compare alternatives. Travel Planners can refine, personalize, and reassure anxious travelers. Local experts can enrich, correct, and ground advice in on-the-ground reality.

But for this ecosystem to work, we’ll need to develop new discernment. Learn to spot fake profiles on forums. Systematically verify AI suggestions. Assess the real value of a Travel Planner before paying. And, above all, rediscover the habit of contacting those who live there directly.

Travel has always been a school of discernment. It teaches us to distinguish the authentic from the fake, sincere advice from commercial manipulation. In the digital age, this skill becomes more crucial than ever.

Because ultimately, the real question isn’t which information source to prioritize, but how to cultivate our own ability to evaluate, cross-check, and ultimately make informed choices. The best travel guide may still be our critical thinking.

Photo credit: Arakis Travel
Another side of my trip to Thailand: Villages, nature, countryside, mountains...
by Marien33 · 2025-08-08 · 232 replies
February 9th is a pivotal day during my trip to Thailand. Up until this date, my focus had been on cities, temples, and other urban landmarks. Starting February 10th, I’ll finally leave the city behind for the outskirts—one town, one life, farther from tourism, more real, more authentic... Then comes the bucolic surroundings of Chiang Mai, nature, the countryside, the mountains.

This morning, I head to visit the ethnographic museum. I’d been told about another one, but it’s permanently closed. I wonder if it’s the same one that might have changed its name and location.

I thoroughly enjoy visiting this museum. At first, I’m a bit annoyed because the place is packed with noisy school groups blocking the display cases without even showing the slightest interest. But soon, their chaperones manage to lead them into another room, giving me some peace. They maintain this distance throughout the tour, allowing me to explore the museum in complete tranquility. I really appreciate their tact.

I’m amazed by the absolutely stunning fabric displays and the countless everyday objects, especially the very old pottery. There’s so much beautiful basketry and intricately carved wood. The statues are also incredible... After seeing all of them, I no longer feel like buying any from the shops.

On my way back, not far from my hotel, I discover a rather unique place that only serves one drink, which they’ve made their specialty: egg coffee! A pretty surprising novelty. I have to try it.



At the bottom of the cup, they pour a layer of milk, topped with a layer of liquid coffee, followed by a layer of egg yolk, and finally a top layer that turns out to be a mix of coffee and cocoa powder. It’s a cold drink that, in the end, doesn’t have much flavor, and the price is pretty steep for such a small cup. You’re paying for the exclusivity!

Later in the day, I venture once again into small alleys, something I love doing when exploring a new city—no specific goal, just wandering east of the city, outside the walls.



I encounter very few tourists there and discover unsuspected little shops overflowing with lovely items, much cheaper than what you find in the heart of the tourist district. Then I wander through the floors of Warorot Market. I discover another kind of temple there: the temple of good deals. I love finding clothes that are really original for locals, not the flood of shirts and pants that tourists love but no Thai would ever buy, which invade the shops in the "Historic Square." I stop in my tracks in front of a stall with beautiful shirts featuring stunning geometric patterns in elegant color combinations and very short sleeves. Hmm, these would be perfect for showing off my biceps, one of which is adorned with the magnificent Ganesh tattoo I got last year in Bali. "When you’ve got nice things, you’ve got to show them off!" he said. 😜🙏💪 I pick out two for 380 baht and negotiate them down to 300. But the seller won’t go any lower. I understand I’ve reached the limit of her commercial possibilities. Just as I’m leaving the shop, happy with my purchase, my ever-helpful inner voice, Petite Voix, suggests: - You didn’t try them on because you were too lazy to take off the one you’re wearing and also because of the sweat, but you could just put one on over the one you’re wearing. It’s light enough that it won’t bother you.

I go back to the two sellers, who burst out laughing when I ask to try them on. - Oh no, it’s way too small for you! It’s a women’s shirt! - But they don’t look particularly feminine in style! And I chose XXL... I put the shirt on, and of course, it won’t close. Then I notice the buttons are on the wrong side. That’s why the sleeves seemed so short!!! They put the shirts back on the rack and refund me without any fuss, commenting amid total hilarity: - Well, thank goodness you tried it on just as you were leaving the shop!

Since I don’t want to walk too much before tomorrow’s first Big Outing with the driver, I end my stroll with a visit to two very pretty temples recommended by Joël.



I’d rather not post more temple photos. But these ones smell like village and countryside...







I’ve never seen anything like Wat Ket Karam, so extravagant...





And I end my day with two other lesser-known temples: Wat Noung Kham, simple and finally free of gold and glitter,



and Wat Dap Phai, where an intimate ceremony is taking place at the end of the day.
Is the vehicle registration document mandatory when boarding in Denmark?
by Alex76000 · 2025-07-10 · 15 replies
Hi there, we’re planning our trip to the North Cape this summer. We bought a new vehicle for it. Unfortunately, the registration document is still being processed, and the delay seems long—I don’t think I’ll have it in time for our departure... I have the transfer documents, insurance in my name, and all the supporting paperwork, but not the registration document. So my question is: does the ferry company require the registration document *mandatorily* when boarding in Denmark or not? Thanks for any insights...
Trip report and practical tips for the American West Coast
by Jeannoelll · 2025-06-01 · 6 replies
Hi there, Just back from 25 days in May 2025 in the American West—here are some practical tips that might help you plan your trip.

Flight: 2 tickets for 1270 € with British Airways (Lyon-LA, SF-Lyon) SIM card: 12GB from Sim USA for 39 €. Useful for looking up accommodation every late afternoon. 12GB was enough for us. Car rental: Booked with BSP Autos. 21 days = 538 € for a Jeep Compass SUV picked up at LA airport and dropped off at SF airport. An SUV isn’t essential at all, but since we had one, we did take some easy dirt roads. Driving is straightforward, highways are toll-free. Gas: Averaged $3.80/gallon = 1 €/liter. We drove 6700 km and spent $500 on gas. Big price differences between states, and even between stations in the same state. We checked Google Maps/fuel for the best deals. Water: Not recommended to drink tap water. We refilled two 3L bottles regularly at visitor centers in the parks and froze two 1L bottles overnight to keep water cool during the day. Money: Bring cash for tips and gas—sometimes cheaper when paying in cash. Accommodation: Averaged $100/night. Only the first night in LA was booked in advance. For the rest of the trip, we found places to stay (mostly motels outside the parks) near where we were each late afternoon by checking availability on Booking, among others. No issues finding places in May—the advantage was the freedom to improvise. For example, we’d planned to do the loop counterclockwise: LA, Joshua Tree, Grand Canyon. But seeing the forecast (3 days of snow and freezing temps at GC), we headed straight from JT to Las Vegas, did the loop clockwise, and by the time we got back to GC, the weather was perfect. Weather: Aside from the first 3 mixed days, we had perfect weather—20-30°C, except Death Valley (37°C) and SF (15°C). Food: Depends on your appetite. For us, snacks during the day, a bigger meal in the evening, plus miscellaneous extras—our budget was $40/day. Miscellaneous: The "America the Beautiful" pass is a must—80 $. Website: For us, the best site was roadtrippin’. Our itinerary: LA, Joshua Tree, Las Vegas, Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, Arches, Colorado National Monument, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Mesa Verde, Natural Bridges, Gooseneck Point, Canyon de Chelly, Painted Desert Park, Petrified Forest Park, Sedona, Grand Canyon, Route 66, LV, Red Rock Canyon Park, Death Valley, Sequoia Park, Yosemite Park, Big Sur-Monterey, San Francisco. 25 days—we didn’t lounge around, but we didn’t rush either. We took time in each park to drive the scenic routes, visit viewpoints, and do at least one hike (max 2 hours) per park.

Happy travels!
May 2025 Theme Discussion: Reflection(s)
by Rouquine38 · 2025-05-02 · 124 replies
This is the place for chit-chat on this month’s theme—reflections! I’m sure you’ve got some amazing ones to share. 😄
Need advice for a 22-day Namibia itinerary
by Anneclaireco · 2025-03-23 · 13 replies
Hi there, I’m planning a trip with my three teens in a 4x4 with rooftop tents in July 2025 and would love your thoughts on my itinerary (still a draft). Day 1: Windhoek Day 2: Keetmanshoop Day 3-5: Fish River Canyon Day 6: FRC stop in Mariental Day 7: Mariental to Sesriem Day 8-10: Sesriem, then depart for Swakopmund Day 11-12: Swakopmund Day 13-14: Spitzkoppe Day 15-16: Twyfelfontein Day 17: Stop in Outjo Day 18-20: Etosha Day 21: Waterberg Day 22: Waterberg to Windhoek Day 23: Afternoon flight

Thanks so much for your help! Anne Claire
Skyscrapers, Markets, Ice Cubes, Tourism, and Waterfalls... Thailand's Excesses
by Marien33 · 2025-03-20 · 249 replies


A somewhat lengthy title... I could have simply written: from Bangkok to Chiang Rai, via Chiang Mai, since that was my route. But when poets embellish our travel journals with their verbal flourishes, you’ve got to try not to be too ordinary.

Skyscrapers of excess? You’ll have gathered that from the photo illustrating this journal—though it might change as the trip goes on.

The excess of markets—not so much in their size, though... Chatuchak... But in their sheer number. Day markets, night markets, floating markets, fresh produce markets, fish markets, meat markets, spice markets, fabric markets... and even... amulet markets... For luck, good fortune, protection. Not to mention, sadly, the market for girls—and boys, incidentally. I’ve even heard they’re displayed in windows. I’ve heard about that one, like you have, but I didn’t set foot in it, so I can’t say anything about it. Some even claim there’s a black-market trade in children. Disgusting! It reminded me of the book *The Parcel* by Anosh Irani, which I recommended in another journal. The story is set in India, but I’ve been told it exists in Thailand too. So, the "famous Thai markets" we’re bombarded with in paper and online guides—sure, they amazed me in the first few days, and I don’t regret visiting them. But no matter how big they were, I quickly got my fill since you saw the same things at every stall...

I had a market overdose.

Excess of tourism? I should say *tourists*, since I saw them literally swarming in the streets and those famous markets. I’d forgotten about them. I’d lost the habit, living in an Indian city for so long...

Waterfalls are a bit like markets. At this time of year, they’re not particularly spectacular, but they’re everywhere. There are the ones everyone goes to see. For example, Erawan, which I decided to skip even though it was in my original itinerary—I guessed it’d be a nightmare with the selfie circus. On the other hand, you come across them all over the place, hidden in the mountains and forests, not listed in any guide. Not to mention the ones you can find in temples or even private homes... Yes, really! Thais love waterfalls, so they install them in their gardens—and I even saw one in the middle of the city, right on the street! Sometimes they’re tiny, but very photogenic.

But what do ice cubes have to do with this? Why the excess of ice cubes? Not only are they everywhere by the ton, but they put them in *everything* you drink. You’d think they’d even put them in soup! And it’s not just one or two ice cubes—no! They fill the container to the brim, whatever it is, then pour the liquid on top to fill the gaps. They’ll make you an excellent coffee right in front of you, piping hot, then—bam! An avalanche of ice cubes in the glass. Okay, I’m exaggerating a little. They *do* sometimes ask if you prefer your coffee—or tea—hot. Everything edible, and especially everything drinkable, is refrigerated: vegetables, fruit, hot drinks (I mean, drinks that are *usually* hot), but meat and fish are left out in the open. They just wave a little whisk to shoo away the flies when they get too eager. Mind you, I never put fruit, cheese, eggs, or water in the fridge in France, but I do in India. And I refrigerate meat and fish too... Though sometimes one of those little flies sneaks into the fridge...

You won’t find practical or technical details in this journal, like addresses or prices. Others do that better than me. You also won’t find the names of obscure or unknown places I discovered, or directions to get there.

I don’t really feel like recounting what I saw day by day, following my schedule and route. There might be flashbacks, projections into the future. It’ll depend on my memories, what I felt, what I hated, what comes back to me—and maybe your questions and our exchanges. And for those who’ve never read me before, you’ll have to get used to my parentheses and digressions, maybe on a completely different subject, as my thoughts wander. Stories within stories. There’ll also be long, endless sentences—but still punctuated, so you can follow along. Though I used to curse Proust and his sentences that started on one page and ended on the next, sometimes even further. I’d have to reread them twenty times to follow and understand what he was saying. I hated Proust. But hey, I was 20. Maybe I’d like him now?

See? The digressions are starting already. Forgive me.

You’ll find few photos here. First, the number is limited, and second, photos aren’t the main purpose of either VF or a travel journal. They’re too often used to mask the poverty of the text. And, sorry to say it, but so many of them are just plain ugly! If you really want to see photos, I’ll share some links where you can browse them at your leisure

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