Results for "Lassay+|+127"

Jusqu'ici, bonjour pour trouver une carte du Vietnam "qui tient la route", c'est le cas de le dire!

On peut enfin trouver des cartes du Vietnam aussi bonnes que les Michelins, publiees par la societe Cartographic Publishing House, 85, Nguyen Chi Tanh, Hanoi. Atlas de 35 pages indiquant meme les pistes carossables. Indispensable pour ceux qui veulent sortir des sentiers battus. Elles sont en vente au 1er etage de la librairie SAVINA a Hanoi (petite table a droite en haut de l’escalier) sous le titre en larges lettres blanches: “GIAO THONG DUONG BO VIETNAM” (Couverture bleue fonce - 155 000 dong).

PS. Je bosse pas pour eux, c'est juste un conseil d'ami!

Je sais qu' il y a probablement plei d' infos la-dessus sur des postes anterieurs, mais ce serait sympa si les "experts" pouvaient rassembler leurs suggestions ici. Merci d' avance!

Salut la compagnie! Je viens de faire un tour FABULEUX de 15 jours en jeep (Hanoi-Langson-Cao Bang-Ha Giang-Meo Vac-Ha Giang-Hanoi). La route Ha Giang-Meo Vac, c'est indescriptible! Anyway, si vs avez besoin d'infos, je suis votre homme.

Bonjour. Je suis à la recherche d'une adresse de location voiture + chauffeur pour visiter le nord est du Vietnam en 15 jours au départ d'Hanoi en novembre prochain. Merci pour vos réponses.

Est ce que quelqu'un à déjà fait xining à lhassa avec le nouveau train ?

je suis déjà allé au tibet et j'aimerai savoir si qulqu'un connais jekundo et Nanchen ? j'aimerai savoir si sa a changé moi j'y était en 99.

Bonjour, Je souhaiterais savoir s'il est préférable, pour un français, d'emmener des Euros ou des Dollars avec soi au Vietnam, pour les changer ensuite en Dôngs. 1) En ce qui concerne le dollars, je l'ai déjà fait en travelers chèques : j'aimerais savoir si maintenant, on peut les convertir en dollars liquides dans des agences d'American Express (gratuitement) qui seraint sur place. 2) En ce qui concerne les Euros, je ne l'ai jamais fait : je supoose qu'on évite le double change, mais je ne sais pas s'il l'on peut se faire faire des travelers en Euros, pour les convertir en Euros liquides sur place, gratuitement.

3) Bien sûr, je sais que quand on convertit ses travellers en Dôngs à la Vietcombank on subit une commission, et qu'il est préférable d'acheter ses Dôngs dans les bijouteries : c'est toujours vrai ?

MERCI de vos dernières informations toutes fraîches. Patrice11

Bonjour Connaissez vous les prix pratiqués pour faire du jet sur la plage? Avez vous des bons plans lieux et tarifs pas trop cher?? Merci

Bonjour a tous!

Voila nous sommes (avec mon copain) en Asie du Sud Est pendant 6 mois. Nous travaillons a Manille, et resterons ici jusqu a la mi-juin. Nous comptons donc parcourir les Philippines pendant cette periode. Ensuite, nous voulons voyager dans le reste de l'Asie du Sud Est. Le principal probleme qui se pose pendant cette periode est bien sur la mousson, alors j ai un peu regarde dans les discussions et je pense que l'on ira a Bali pendant un mois: ca nous laissera peut etre le temps de visiter d autres coins en Indonesie. Ensuite nous remontons a Bangkok, et je me suis dit que 2 semaines c etait suffisant pour aller visiter les temples d'Angkor et faire un petit tour par la bas.

Donc si vous avez des conseils a me donner, n hesitez surtout pas! Est ce que le trajet est sympa? Est ce que les destinations sont bien choisies par rapport a la mousson? Est ce que vous avez des coins sympas a nous proposer sur la route?

Merci beaucoup!

Comment aller d'Hanoi à la cathédrale si ce n'est en recourrant à un taxi ? Je n'ai pas connaissance d'une excursion privée (ex : chez Hanoi Tours = 180 $ pour un tour privé de 2 jours dont le 1er sur Hoa Lu) pour la journée qui permettrait d'y arriver ; dans l'hypothèse contraire merci de me faire parvenir un lien... TOUTES les suggestions seront les bonnes sachant que mon teps sera limité.

Bonjours a tous!!!

Je suis presentement a me demande si je peux faire et traverser tous ces pays (Indonesie, Malaysie, Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodge, Chine, Mongolie, Russie) par la voie terrestre ou maritime??? Y-a-t-il quelqu'un qui a fait se trip la recemment par voie terrestre??? Probleme Visa!!!!

J'ai lu un peu pour plusieurs de ces pays qu'il faut lorsque l'on rentre par quelques frontieres que ce soient(air, mer, terre) avoir en main un titre de transport retour ou de continuation. Si j'arrive de l'Australie par exemple, avec un aller simple sur Singapour ou Bali, vont-ils me laisser rentrer, moi un Canadien??? Et ensuite pour les autres pays mentionne ci-haut??? Vont-il me laisser passer???

Merci de vos lumieres!!!

Et SVP soyez patient avec moi, je ne peux faire toutes mes recherches sur le Net... Je suis en voyage presentement et en mode Budget!!!😕

Merci!

Altaus🙂

Bonjours a tous,

Voila je viens de faire construire une maison (dans le nord a 30km de lampang) et elle est en court de finition, lorsque ma femme va descendre le 30 mars, elle la verra pour la 1er fois ensuite moi je la rejoint le 6 juin, mais je vais arriver avec mes parents a qui je veus presenter la belle famille et faire une vistite assez complete de la thailand, et nous repartons le 4 juillet. Voici maintenant mes questions. Je souhaite louer une voiture des mon arrive a l aeroport ou ? combien ? dois je booker a l avance et payer d avance ? Je pense descendre directe vers koh Chang 3/4jours ou dormir pour 30euro avec bungalow en bord de mer ? Combien de temps de BKK a Ko Chang ? Ensuite je pense passer a pattaya pour1/2 jours pareil ou dormir manger etc... Combien de Temps Ko Chang a Pattaya ? Puis direction Kanchannaburi 2/3 jour pour bien sur voir le pont de la riviere kwai (pour papa) et aussi les fabuleuse chutes d eau (pour maman) ou dormir ou manger ?... Combien de Temps Pattaya Kanchanaburi ? Puis route avec stop a Sukhotay 1 nuits. pareil ou dormir et manger ? Combien de Temps de Kanchanburi a Sukothai ?

Sachant que je n ai que 9 jours pour arriver a Lampang !!

ensuite arriver chez moi, je vais y rester 7 jours pour faire quelques achats afin d habiller ma nouvel maison, et ensuite je pars faire visiter le nord de la thailand a mes parents mais la ca va je connais toutes les bonnes adresse mais suis preneur des bons plans. puis apres tout ce periple retour sur BKK pour 2 jours shopping et retour en france

voila je vous remercie de votre aide

j'aimerai bien m'evadé pour un pays asiatique et pour ce j'ai choisi la malaisie ou singapour j'ai jamais été j'aimerai bien avoir des informations sur le cout de la vie et les sur les etudes je pense y aller pour etudier alors que me conseillez vous?

Bonjour,

Nous partons le 21 février pour une vintaine de jours pour notre voyage de noces. Voici une ébauche de notre parcours, tous les conseils, tuyaux, bons plans... seront les bienvenus ! Bangkok 2 jours et une nuit (Reno hotel, des avis ?) Bus de nuit pour Sukkothai (quelqu'un a-t'il des horaires de bus VIP ?) 1 jour + 1 nuit à Sukkothai (orchid&Ibiscus guesthouse, des avis ?) direction Chiang Mai 3jours/2 nuits (Nous aimerions faire un hotel un peu sympa/chic à Chiang Mai, des adresses ?) Puis Chiang Rai 1 jour/1 nuit Croisière sur le Mekong 2 jours / 1 nuit à Pakbeng au Laos (Luangsay Cruise, des avis ?) 2 jours/2 nuits à Luang Prabang (adresses d'hotels sympas ?) Vol Luang Prabang/Siem Reap 3 jours/2 nuits à Siem Reap (adresses d'hotels sympas ?) Direction Koh Chang (3 jours) pour finir le voyage par un peu de glandouille à la plage... (meilleur moyen de s'y rendre de Siem Reap ? Adresse de bungalow à Koh Chang ?) Retour Paris, via Bangkok !

Voilou... J'attends tous les conseils possibles, par avance merci.

Al.

je part pour la thailande en mars et ont ma dit que vers narathiwa et hat yai il y avais des souci avec des conflis de religion et autre je doit y aller normalement alors si quelqu'un a des infos pour savoir si je doit changer mon itinéraire voila merci a tous

Bonjour, Je me suis renseignée sur l'assurance maladie pour partir en Thaïlande. Ma banque m'a dit que nous sommes couvertes par Europe Assistance parce qu'on a une carte bleue visa. En téléphonant à Europe Assistance, elle m'a expliqué ce à quoi on a droit, notamment une couverture de soins médicaux jusqu'à 11 000 euros. Elle a dit que les soins là bas sont très chers et m'a conseillé de prendre une extension pour aller jusqu'à 150 000 à 200 000 euros, mais il faut payer 95 euros par personne ! Piège à pigeon? Est-ce que les soins médicaux sont vraiment plus chers là bas? 11 000 euros, ça me semble bien quand même pour les soins, non? Merci d'avance, Marie

Bonjour,

nous partons le 2 Février pour la thailande pour 15 jours, j'aurais besoin de conseils sur notre intinéraire (malheureusement nous n'avons pas plus de vacances...)

3 février arrivée bangkok vol interne déjà prévu pour chang mai - Arrivée midi recherche hotel et treck 4, 5, 6 février treck Avez-vous des trecks à recommander? quel est le prix moyen? 6 février au soir départ en train pour Ayutaya ou Sukkothai (Quel est le plus pratique vs notre chemin? quel est le plus bo?) Est-il trop ambitieux d'enchainer le treck avec le départ en train - j'ai vu que les treck était de retour vers 18h et le dernier train pour 21H? 7 février visite Aya ou Sukko puis départ pour Bangkok 8 et 9 février visite bangkok 9 février au soir départ pour Krabi en bus (Si on le réserve la veille ça ira?) mieux vaut un bus privé ou classique? 10 février Krabi 11, 12, 13 février Ko phi phi (nous avons vraiment de nous faire plaisir sur la fin du voyage, avez vous un bel hotel à conseiller?) 14-15 février Ko Lantha retour krabi 16 février Krabi - Bangkok en vol interne, visite Bangkok après midi 17 février départ pour paris Arrivée 18 au matin et boulot dans la foulée...

pensez-vous qu'il faille souffler un peu plus au début? rester un jour de plus à chang mai ou bangkok? il y a t-il une ile plus interessante que ko lantha?

Avez vous des optimisations à proposer? des conseils?

merci d'avance!!

Cher tous, Mes parents sont venus me rendre visite et je recherche des endroits sympas aux alentours de Bangkok ou les emmener promener. Je les ai deja emmene a klong suan market, manger un bout a Bang phu (c'est la periode des mouettes c'est vraiment genial!). Je recherche des tuyaux et adresses sympas (si vous avez des photos c'est encore mieux😉) guest house, hotels, ballades, trucs a ne pas louper vers: kanchanaburi, saraburi et koh samet. Je reste bien sur ouvert a tout autre suggestion si cela reste a 3h max de Bangkok. Merci Elpedro

Bonjour,

je pense passer 10 jours dans le sud du vietnam fin fevrier.

Pouvez-vous me conseiller un itineraire (je viendrais de PP, donc a priori premiere étape à Saigon).

Dèjà, est-ce la bonne saison?

Dans le circuit, je cherche un coin de plage ou me poser, que conseillez-vous?

Formalités de VISA? Peut-on le faire faire à PP?

Budget par jour en mode routard?

Puis toute bonne adresse de GH sera la bienvenue.

Merci d'avance.

Bonjour, je prépare mon voyage sur le vietnam du Nord et la région entre Hagiang et meo Vac à l'air très belle (au dire de certains ici mais par rapport au reste vaut-elle vraiment le coup?), j'aurais voulu avoir plus de précisions sur cette région, à savoir est-ce qu'il est possible par exemple en louant une moto à Hanoi d'aller jusque dans cette région, y dormir (Hotel?) ou faut-il prendre une agence obligatoirement pour faire cela (et si oui laquelle??) Et pendant que j'y suis, mêmes questions pour la région de Lai Chau au Nord-ouest? merci beaucoup pour vos futurs réponses

Bonjour,

J'habite en ce moment à Hong Kong et je planifie de partir avec deux potes au Tibet et de rejoindre Kathmandu. J'ai lu sur plusieurs forums qu'un permis est necessaire pour voyager au Tibet. Mais entre obligation d'en avoir un, possibilité de circuler sans, annulation des permis par les autorités chinoises, permis compris dans le billet d'avion, etc.. J'avoue ne plus rien capter du tout!!!

Alors si quelqu'un pouvait m'éclairer sur ce sujet, je suis preneur!

D'ailleurs, que conseillez-vous pour se déplacer pour un petit budget qui ne souhaite pas forcément choisir le mode tour operator et voyager à 10? Bus? Camion? Au pire des cas, combien coute une jeep et un guide pour un trip de 10 jours? Quel itinéraire suivre?

Merci de votre aide!!!

En cas d'arrivée tardive - nocturne (après 20 h.) à Katmandou, peut-on prendre son visa à l'aéroport ??? : bureau ouvert, change possible, paiement en dollars ou euros possible ??? - merci ...

Bonjour a tous.

Je suis actuellement a Guilin en Chine et souhaiterais connaitre l adresse d une agence qui pourrait me delivrer le fameux permis pour entrer a Lhassa. Qui aurait une adresse, c est assez urgent svp ? Ou pourrais je en avoir 1 pas loin d ici ? Merci +++.

Salut,

je serai à Vientiane le 8 juin et repars de Hanoi le 21. l'idée est de passer du laos au Nord Vietnam. Qqun peut il m'indiquer le meilleur itinéraire dans les temps qui me sont données, sachant que je me contenterai du coup du nord vietnam.

je pensais à Vientiane Phonsavan Luang Prabang puis Laichau Sapa Hanoi, ou Laichau Son La Maichau Hanoi Along mais il me manque les étapes intermédiaires

l'important est que je sache surtout où passer la frontière pour la demande de Visa.

merci d'avance Guillaume

Bonjour à tous,

Voilà, je souhaite dans un avenir plus ou moins proche (juste le temps de préparer mon voyage et d'en informer mon employeur) prendre un congé sabbatique de 6 mois pour aller en chine et en profiter aussi pour aller en Mongolie mais aussi au Tibet. Mais voilà, après avoir parcouru en long et en travers ce génial forum, j'ai du mal à synthétiser tous les renseignements donnés par les internautes... Voici le binzt dans ma tête 🤪 : je ne pars pas dans l'esprit de travailler là bas ni en tant qu'étudiante alors j'ai un statut particulier pour une touriste car le séjour sera long. Or, le visa touristique n'est valable que 3 mois. est-il possible (et sans problème aucun) de le prolonger sur place ? Ou peut être même de prendre un visa double entrée et du coup, je fais 3 mois en chine puis je pars qq temps en mongolie et je reviens. Mais ma 2de entrée est-elle aussi valable 3 mois ? est-ce que c'est galère pour aller de chine en Mongolie aussi bien sur le plan trajet que sur le plan administratif ? Idem pour le tibet ? Quelques uns d'entre vous ont-il fait l'expérience d'un congé sabbatique en asie ? Comment avez-vous préparer ce congé ? tant au niveau voyage, qu'au niveau logement, préparation du circuit, vols intérieurs, plan des ville.... puis-je prendre des cours de chinois sur place (je prends des cours en France depuis un peu plus d'un an mais trop irrégulier pour avoir un niveau correct) ? Quel est le budget pour vivre 6 mois là bas ? Pour l'instant, j'avoue que tout est dans ma tête quant à ce projet et je ne fais (pour l'instant) que consulter les reflexions de chacun afin de savoir par où dois-je commencer mes démarches. Et pis je dois convaincre mon amie de partir avec moi. Elle est déjà partante mais je sens de l'appréhension quand même chez elle.

Enfin voilà, merci de m'avoir lu (c'est vrai je suis bavarde mais encore je dois mettre une fin pour ne pas vous saouler ! 😉) et j'espère avoir qq réponses afin d'avoir un esprit un peu moins embrumé.

Baille baille

Salut,

D'après les renseignements que j'ai trouvé, il est nécessaire pour se rendre au Kailash depuis Lhassa de passer par une agence car zone non ouverte aux voyageurs individuels.

Avez-vous des infos à ce sujet ? Quelles sont les possibilités, risques, difficultés de s'y rendre sans agence ?

Merci

As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s. Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid. Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.



Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.



Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.

After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.

Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!

That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.

Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.



The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.

Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*

Hi everyone, We're a family of five: two adults and our three kids (18, 17, and 13 years old). We’ve just bought our flight tickets for Vietnam from August 6th to 26th, 2025. We know it’s not the best month to explore Vietnam, but we don’t have a choice—our vacation is in August! We’ll pack ponchos ;-) I’ve read a lot of blogs online, but I’d love your advice, please: Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: We’ll arrive in Hanoi (2-3 days), and if the weather allows, we’d like to head to Sapa to discover the landscapes, rice terraces, and mountains... (2 days). We’re not planning to book anything (train, hotel, etc.) because we’ll decide based on the weather whether to include this stop or not. Do you think it’s doable to not book anything in Sapa for a family of five? After that, we’re planning to explore Lan Ha Bay and the surrounding areas, Ninh Binh... (4-5 days). I’d love your tips for exploring this area because I’ve read so much that I’m a little overwhelmed... Ideally, we’ll then head down to Hue and Hoi An. We’ll enjoy a few days at the beach (4-5 days). Then Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta (3-4 days). What do you think of this plan for 21 days? If you know any great spots, guides, etc., I’m all ears! Especially for Lan Ha Bay and the surrounding areas, as well as the Mekong Delta. And of course, any great tips you’d like to share. There’s info scattered around the forums, but I’m struggling to find recent updates. Thanks for taking the time to read this, and thanks to those who help us prepare for this trip! Happy travels to you all ;-) Florence

SIEM REAP You can now rent scooters just about everywhere in Siem Reap, but at rip-off prices—$15–18 a day instead of $5–10 like everywhere else in Indochina. The best options are tuk-tuks or, even better, electric bikes ($12, but with a 50 km range, so they won’t let you go to Banteay Srei or the River of a Thousand Lingas in the Kulen Massif, which are too far). **WARNING:** Wear a helmet, or they *will* catch you. Scooters are banned from going from SR to the stunning temple of Koh Ker in the northeast and continuing to Battambang; no idea why!

My favorite little hotel in Siem Reap? The Neth Socheata, tucked in an alley off Thnou St near the market—lovely rooms, and the owner speaks great English. Then there’s the Ivy Guesthouse with its little garden, but it’s “always full,” according to the owner. For something upscale but still affordable, a fantastic spot is the Pavillon Indochine, tucked away on a quiet side street on the way to the airport—elegant, with incredible attention to decor, a terrace restaurant, garden, pool, etc. Everything you’d want for $70 including breakfast. I also spotted a hostel for backpackers, the Angkor Thom Hostel, with small 6-bed dorms for $4 with a fan or $6 with AC (18 Wat Bo St).

Food-wise, it’s all amazing! Pub Street has turned into a noise nightmare, with speakers blasting what’s supposed to be music but is just *boom, boom, boom, boom, boom*—run away, even though the pizzas at the Italian place Il Forno are really good. The famous and excellent Tigre de Papier has changed its name to Paper Tiger and is still just as good (lunch only, though, because across the street there’s a huge bar blasting *boom boom boom*, so you won’t be able to hear each other during dinner). On the other hand, the Italian-Cambodian El Toro on Pub Street is perfect, with fantastic pizzas and divine lasagna (go to the first-floor dining room—there’s a big bar across the street blasting *boom boom boom*, but at least you can still talk). Due to the lack of customers during COVID, all the French restaurants—Barrio (three times alas!), Les Deux Sœurs, Le Bel Air, and Le Mozart—have closed. The only one left is L’Olivier, which is pricey. I also discovered a great Moroccan restaurant (though run by a Sudanese man and his French wife), Le Tajine, on Strung Thmei St, 09 68 89 78 27. **WARNING:** For tagines and couscous, you need to order at least in the morning; wine and beer are fine. To get there, turn at the corner of the Cineplex behind the big market at the start of Sivatha Boulevard.

I finally went to the Khmer dance show. Beautiful dancers and dances, but **EAT BEFORE OR AFTER**—the meal is so awful that most Westerners leave it on their plates.

THE ANGKOR TEMPLES Use the excellent *Routard Cambodia* guide. Just a few tips: - Start with the pre-Angkorian Roluos group, 15 km before Siem Reap on the road to PP—it’s the “ancestor” of the temples.

- To avoid the big crowds at Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm, go between noon and 2 PM when everyone’s having lunch. - Speaking of lunch, the crowds flock to the hundred or so mediocre food stalls on the left side of Angkor Wat. Instead, head to Angkor Thom after the stunning Pre Rup temples, all the way to the small Sras Srang basin. Along the basin, there are several restaurants with terraces offering first-floor views of the water, and no crowds. Afterward, cross to the other side of the basin—you’ll end up in the countryside with charming villages where locals seem to live as they did during the temples’ golden age (at its peak, the population was estimated at 600,000–800,000, making it the largest city in the world. The theory for the abandonment is water shortages caused by overpopulation).

- I climbed Phnom Bakheng for the famous sunset, but the crowd was so ridiculous that instead of seeing the temple at sunset, you just see the heads and shoulders around you.

- There are tons of small temples that most people skip, and they’re missing out. My favorites: Thommanon, Neak Pean, Ta Som, and especially Pre Rup, an amazing brick complex with 14 towers.

**Big disappointment:** You can no longer climb to the first floor of Bayon, where you used to stand magically among the giant head statues. So, admire the beautiful bas-reliefs on the outside, but there’s no point going inside—you’ll just see a dark, square corridor with nothing interesting.

ANGKOR FURTHER AFIELD The wonderful Banteay Srei temple. A gem! I couldn’t find the bas-relief stolen by Malraux in the 1920s (fun fact: what he was doing in Indochina—stealing a bas-relief to sell for a fortune in France to cover his massive gambling debts on the stock market, where he ruined his very wealthy American wife—was an open secret. But the French authorities in Saigon, who hated him for his leftist views, decided to let him do it and catch him red-handed, which worked perfectly. He avoided jail only because all the leftist intellectuals in Saint-Germain, Sartre, Beauvoir, and co. cried scandal—though the real scandal was the looting).

30 km of excellent paved road further north, a great spot: the Kulen Massif and the River of a Thousand Lingas (at one point, you’ll come to a T-junction—turn left). Along the road at the foot of the massif, on your right, there’s a great restaurant, Bourey Sovann (where the food is excellent). The trail to the river starts just before it on the left. **Warning:** There are two sites for the River of a Thousand Lingas. One is accessible via a private road, so there’s a $20 toll, and you need to arrive before 11 AM because the road is narrow and traffic flows downhill after that. You’ll end up in a site full of shops, snack stalls, and two good restaurants, including one by a beautiful waterfall. However, the thousand lingas aren’t as spectacular there.

Banteay Srei + the River of a Thousand Lingas makes for a fantastic day. **WARNING:** You used to be able to go to the river and waterfall by scooter or tuk-tuk, but it’s now forbidden. So **go by taxi**—otherwise, you’ll be hiking 12 km round trip up a steep trail.

If you leave Siem Reap early, you can even add Beng Mealea temple on the way back, making a triangular route: SR-BS-Khulen-BM-SR (or the reverse).

If you have time, visit Banteay Samré temple, 10 km west of the Angkor Thom complex. A lovely site with very few visitors.

I’ve never been to the famous Preah Khan on a hill overlooking Thailand. There’s a big dispute between the two countries—the Thais insist the temple belongs to them because the entrance is in their country. There have been serious clashes in the recent past, and landmines are still abundant off the marked paths. They even claim the entire Siem Reap province is theirs and should be returned, arguing it was Thai in the past. It takes two days (6–7 hours each way), with an overnight stay in the nearby village (small hotels and one luxury option with a garden and pool, but it’s expensive).

TONLE SAP People talk about “floating villages,” but that’s a big mistake—these are actually villages of astonishing stilt houses, 4 meters high or more, due to the lake’s major floods. The most famous is Chong Khneas, which I skipped because it’s packed with tourists. Instead, I really liked Kampong Phluk, which is much quieter. To get there, continue on the road past the Roluos group until you reach a parking lot with pirogues lined up. They’ll take you down the river, stop at this amazing village for a walk, and then take you to the Tonle Sap, a true inland sea. At one point, you’ll pass through a flooded forest that you can explore by small boat. At the junction of the river and the Tonle Sap, and on the lake itself, there are floating restaurants where the food is great. Note that in the dry season, you can reach the village by scooter.

BACK TO PHNOM PENH AND ON TO SOUTHERN VIETNAM Since I’d planned at least 15 days in the Mekong Delta between Chau Doc and Saigon, I skipped Battambang, etc. With no desire to endure the dusty road from SR to PP again, I simply loaded my bike onto a bus with the great company Rith Monty (book at their office in SR on the small square at the start of Sivatha Boulevard—$10 for the bike and $6 for me), also known as Paramount. Their buses stop on 136 St right in the middle of PP. I’ll also mention the excellent Giant Ibis, with big modern buses that always leave on time—unlike the others.

I spent the night in PP, and the next morning took the fast boat from PP to Chau Doc with Hang Chau Tourist (buying the ticket the day before is recommended—$25—either at your hotel or the port, and they’ll pick you up at your hotel by tuk-tuk to take you to the port). Departure from PP at noon, arrival in Chau Doc around 4 PM. The boat is great—comfortable and fast. A crew member takes your passports for Cambodian exit formalities, and you handle Vietnamese immigration yourself—it all takes 15–20 minutes. The route isn’t on the Mekong but on the Bassac River to the border, then a wide north-south canal to Chau Doc (the arrival is really nice). In the Chau Doc-PP direction, the boat leaves Chau Doc at 7:30 AM.

Imagine a peaceful fishing village, completely transformed by artists who worked their magic on the walls of 100 residential houses. That’s the remarkable story of the Tam Thanh mural village in Quang Nam province. Once similar to many other coastal villages in the area, it now firmly stands out on the tourist map for a day trip from Hoi An. In the summer of 2016, Tam Thanh was selected by a Korean-Vietnamese joint project called Art For A Better Community. The village was chosen to be their blank canvas, inspired by the success of mural villages in Korea. The project aimed to make Tam Thanh the first painted village of its kind in Vietnam. The joint project included five Korean artists and seven Vietnamese artists, along with local volunteers. They aimed to show Vietnamese people that art could be part of everyday life, no matter where you stand in society. The effort began with about three weeks of wall washing, followed by painting the walls of over 100 residents' houses. The project was a success, and the village came alive with the paintings. The entire village is now a breathtaking gallery just waiting to be explored. The murals capture the life and soul of the village—from young children playing to fishermen in the ocean. A mix of fantastic pieces offers stunning backdrops for photos. The painted art around the town didn’t just have a visual impact; it also had a social one. The village itself was chosen not only for the layout of the houses but also to contribute to economic development opportunities in Tam Thanh. Tourists now visit the once-overlooked village, creating more income for locals and making it a successful "art for a cause" project. For example, an entrepreneurial resident who owned a small local café invested 1,000,000 VND ($390 USD) in a sugarcane press a week before the paintings were completed. Sugarcane juice vendors then multiplied with the growth of tourism (5,000 VND - $0.20 USD). Walking down the village’s single street, it’s common to find locals selling refreshments and handmade crafts. In one house in particular, a tailor and his family are painted on an outer wall with incredible detail. The family started selling tote bags decorated by their young daughter. The asking price for the bags is 100,000 VND ($4 USD). If you’re looking for a way to support the village’s economy, this is it. Since there’s no middleman here, you can be sure your money goes directly to the community. Since the project’s completion, two other villages in the province have now been painted. The new mural villages were created with different local Vietnamese artists to raise awareness about each community’s issues. Tam Hai Island was redecorated to highlight the serious waste problem the population faces due to the lack of treatment plants. Another village on An Binh Island was painted to raise awareness among locals and tourists about the importance of environmental protection. How to get there Route No. 1: Cross the large Cua Dai bridge. Once you’ve crossed it, continue onto Duong 129/Duong Ven Bien. Stay on this road for 33 kilometers. Upside: this route has light traffic, no traffic lights, and no trucks or buses. It’s a great direct route to the village but offers little to see. You’ll eventually reach a crossroads. Turn right toward Tam Ky town, while the left will take you toward the mural village; stay on Road 608 as it turns twice before reaching a bridge. Cross the bridge, and you’ll arrive at Thanh Nien Road. Finally, turn right to reach the village. This route takes about an hour. Route #2: Cross the large Cua Dai bridge. Once you’ve crossed it, continue onto Duong 129/Duong Ven Bien. Stay on this road for 12 kilometers, then turn left onto Road 613, where you’ll continue for 1.5 kilometers until you reach Thanh Nien Road. Finally, turn right and drive 23 kilometers to the painted village. For most of the trip, taking Thanh Nien Road will take you through a much more local part of the region. The journey takes about an hour and a half.