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Carte American Express KLM Air France flying blue English translation pending
by Megamax · 2007-04-25 · 1 reply
bonjour je voudrais acquerir cette carte comment çe prend t'ont et a t'il un minimun point de vu salaire à respécter.
Vol Air France en classe Alizé English translation pending
by Imutimut · 2007-03-27 · 1 reply
Hello,

Je viens de réserver un vol AF, classe ALIZE, (Montpellier) - PARIS - La REUNION

Quid du confort du siège et de la qualité du repas.

Je dispose par ailleurs d'une carte AF GOLD, un surclassement à l'enregistrement ou depuis le salon est il possible si la classe affaires n'est pas pleine (et si oui, convient-il de se signaler à l'enregistrement à Montpellier, ou de se réenregistrer à Orly....).

A vous lire,

Merci

Imutimut
Euros ou dollars au Pérou et en Bolivie? English translation pending
by Poupinot · 2007-02-21 · 15 replies
Bjr à tous,

Le depart approche, on commence à etre sous pression!!!

J'ai beau regarder partout, je n'arrive pas à me faire une idée: Devons nous prendre du cash en euros ou en dollars?

Chacun a son avis sur le sujet. Les ceusses qui y sont allé, dites moi quoi faire et pourquoi.

On aura la catre de credit gold master card, mais on veut prendre un peu de cash pour les depense pendant les 15 premiers jours.

merci pour vos reponses!!!
Assurance santé aux Etats-Unis English translation pending
by Sandrine034 · 2007-01-16 · 8 replies
Bonjour tout le monde!

Je sais que le sujet a été traité plusieurs fois mais j'aimerai juste une confirmation 🤪:

Si je souscris à une assurace voyage chez europ assistance par exemple, est ce que cela me suffit? J'hésite à prendre une carte bancaire de niveaux supérieur (style visa premier ou gold), est ce utile?

Merci d'avance pour vos réponses😊:
Seuil élite de Flying Blue English translation pending
by Breizh31 · 2006-09-19 · 14 replies
Bonjour à tous,

je me demandais si on peut demander un geste à FB lorsqu'on est proche d'un seuil élite ? Style à 29000 miles pour silver, 57000 pour gold, etc. Bon, ça fait un peu mendiant, mais ça vaut le coup je pense non, les avanatages n'étant pas anodins (enregistrement au comptoir biz, accès salons, dépéassement bagages, etc.)

Qu'en pensez-vous, ô grands connaisseurs. Merci de vos réponses (éclairées) 😉
Comparatif Flying Blue / Frequence Jeune English translation pending
by SteeveK · 2006-09-17 · 18 replies
Bonjour,

Nous sommes en septembre, j'ai 50 000 miles qualifiants, et je serai fréquence jeune pour une année supplémentaire (23 ans) ou je ne profite pas des "statuts" élites & co Est-il possible de faire un courrier pour "migrer" vers FB Gold à la fin de l'année ? Qqun l'a déjà fait ? (Faut il écrire à un service particulier ? Est-ce faisable par Internet ou par Telephone ?)

Sinon j'ai un question existencielle... Oute les billets prix par ma boite pour mes voyages boulot, mes voyages perso en france me rapportent mini 1000 miles en "tarif jeune" Est ce que je passage chez FB me fera gagner les mêmes niveaux de miles pourles vols Tarifs Jeune ?

Je sais que je n'aurais plus droit au "bonus de 4000 miles" après chaque 3A/R...

Merci de m'aider à prendre une décision... précisant pour & contre !
Hôtel Sunrise Select Royal Makadi à Hurghada English translation pending
by Sebastien452 · 2006-09-14 · 1 reply
Bonjour, nous nous rendons la semaine prochaine en égypte. NOus logeons au sunrice select royal Makadi. Connaissez vous l'hotel? Comment le trouvez vous? La formule All in gold est elle complete? Merci. A bientot.

Séba
Quelle assurance pour trois mois de voyage en Amérique du Sud? English translation pending
by Lulujack · 2006-09-10 · 4 replies
urgent, nous partons dans 10 jours et nous n'avons pas choisi l'assurance pour les 3 mois où nous allons parcourir l'Amérique du Sud. Nous sommes en possession d'une carte Gold et nous souhaitons une assurance pour nos personnes( maladie, rapatriement, frais d'hospit. ...), nos bagages (sac à dos).... D'avance merci.
Retirer de l'argent avec la carte bleue à Uyuni en Bolivie? English translation pending
by Calo · 2006-07-06 · 7 replies
Bonjour On part dans qqs jours au Chili et on fera peut-être le sud lipez à partir de SPA ou d'Uyuni Peut on retirer de l'argent à Uyuni, distributeur ou banque avec une visa ou master gold. Merci

Béatrice et Charles
Assurances pour trois mois en Amérique Latine English translation pending
by Lulujack · 2006-06-29 · 2 replies
Nous partons pour un peu plus de 3 mois pour un périple pendanrt lequel nous allons traverser Pérou, Equateur, Guatemala, Honduras, Bélize et Mexique. Nous avons opter pour le paiement des vols par carte de crédit Gold qui offre certaines assurances mais qui n'est pas parfaite ( à priori ). Afin de partir l'esprit tranquille, pour ce genre de voyage itinérant prendriez-vous une assurance autre, laquelle, dans quelle agence?
KVS English translation pending
by Mars92 · 2006-06-21 · 4 replies
Bonjour,

petite question pour ceux qui l'utilisent : afin de connaitre les dispo des billets primes AF vous utilisez Apollo ou Wspan ?

La souscription d'un forfait gold est elle vraiment beaucoup plus interessante ? perso, il me semble pas, mais je peux me tromper

Merci

J.
Assurance carte bleue Visa pour le Népal et le Tibet English translation pending
by Noki · 2006-06-11 · 4 replies
Bonjour à tous,

je pars cet été 1 mois au népal + tibet. j'ai payé mes billets d'avions avec une carte bleue visa (pas la gold, la carte bleue normale). Est-ce que les prestations d'assistance et d'assurance sont suffisantes ou bien faut-il souscrire une autre assurance + complete ? merci pour vos réponses

Olivier
Ma location de voiture et loueur pas cher English translation pending
by Pabloprieure · 2006-06-04 · 11 replies
bonjour, j'ai trouvé pour 3 semaines de lax à lax chez elocationsdevoitures.com qui travaille avec alamo un tarif de 794 euros en gold avec plein gratos et 3 conducteurs supp. chez avis ou hertz c'etait au moins 200 euros plus cher mais en assurance simple pour moi cela ne me parait tres cher.. qu'en pensez vous? je tenais a vous le faire savoir au cas ou vous cherchiez une location
La sécurité sociale en Australie English translation pending
by Anneetremy · 2005-12-05 · 7 replies
Ma fille (26 ans) doit partir en Australie pour une année avec un visa tourisme et travail. Qui peut me dire de quelle manière elle peut être couverte par ce qui ressemblerait à notre sécurité sociale; par une carte visa gold(???) elle serait couverte trois mois pour environ 13€ par mois. Merci d'avance pour l'aide!
Coût des cigarettes indiennes English translation pending
by Mart888 · 2005-08-01 · 5 replies
Je fume la cigarette...comment trouvez-vous le gout des cigarettes indiennes ?? Combien se vend le paquet?? Je prévois y aller 6 mois alors je calcule mes dépenses!
Assurer une voiture de location en Namibie English translation pending
by Carsinus · 2005-05-28 · 7 replies
Bonjour, je pars en namibie fin juillet et je souhaiterais savoir s'il existe des assureurs qui proposent des assurances dommage aux véhicules loués à l'étranger. J'imagine que le prix est bien moindre que ce que propose les loueurs sur place. J'ai vu ca dans les carte Gold et Première mais je n'en suis pas détenteur.

Merci
assurance annulation English translation pending
by Roulex · 2005-03-07 · 11 replies
Bonjour,

Comment puis-je assurer un vol sec (vol régulier Air France) contre le risque d'annulation de mon fait (par exemple, si je ne peux pas partir pour cause de maladie, ou d'évènement grave dans mon entourage proche) ?

Merci pour toute réponse

Xavier
Carte bancaire pour TDM? English translation pending
by Breizhoo · 2004-11-23 · 3 replies
Bonjour à tous,

je pars faire le tdm en mai 2005. j'ai actuellement une mastercard. je me documente pour savoir si c'est + intéressant de prendre une mastercard gold ou platinium, par rapport aux couvertures médicales, assistance, point de débit, etc.....si vous avez des infos à ce sujet, des expériences, etc....ou concernant d'autres cartes. D'autre part, je me pose une question....je sais que la CB couvre l'assistance rapatriement, assurance bagage, etc....durant les 90j qui suivent l'achat d'un billet d'avion.Est ce que c'est le cas si on achete un billet de train, de bus ou d'avion à l'autre bout du monde? Si c'est le cas il suffit d'acheter un billet de transport par CB tous les 90j pour bénéficier tout le temps d'une couverture!!!!.....après tout, pourquoi pas????
Votre avis mon itinéaire en Afrique du Sud English translation pending
by Simba · 2003-07-17 · 31 replies
😉 Bonjour à tous,

Ca y est ... On est décidé (entre ce choix cornélien : Kenya ou Afrique du Sud) ... Ce sera South Africa.

Nous avons vu un circuit qui nous paraît attrayant ... votre avis ... Sera le bienvenu.

Circuit 16 jours.

Entre janvier et mars 04 (votre avis sur la période nous interesse beaucoup) Johannesburg : (possibilité d'aller à Gold Reef City ?) Pretoria Parc Kruger (Parc + Parc de Blyde River - Pilgrim's rest) Swaziland Damazulu Parc Hluhluwe Bergville Drakensberg (le parc Royal du Natal) Port Elisabeth (Mossel Bay - Oudthoorn - Nature's Valley - Outeniqua choo-Tjoe train - Featherberd Island) Cape Town (Swellendam - La route des vins - Montagne de la table et le cap de bonne espérance)Ensuite retour ... (Ben! Oui!)

Le circuit peut être précédé par un passage au Zimbabwe (mais alors c'est 20 jours) : Harare Parc National de Matobo Victoria FallsVos expériences sont les bienvenues ...

PS : est-ce qu'au cap ... Il ya moyen d'aller voir les requins ?

Merci et à bientôt, j'espère.
What are the ATM fees in Italy?
by Pass007 · 2026-07-03 · 23 replies
Hi, I'm heading to Italy soon and I wanted to know if Italian banks charge fees when you withdraw cash at an ATM, or if, like in Spain or Greece, it's better to avoid taking out money and bring cash instead. Looking forward to your replies... Thanks
What are the benefits of a suite on the Pacifica?
by Mini123 · 2026-07-12 · 3 replies
Hi everyone, I’m staying in a suite on the Pacifica in October and I can’t find any details about the suite benefits beyond the elite restaurant, the butler, and the espresso machine. What about breakfast and meals served free in the cabin, and the spa? Costa’s been cutting back on perks for Gold members, and it seems like suites are next. Thanks for your replies!
Which bank card for a car rental in Canada?
by Kamil411 · 2026-02-14 · 13 replies
Hi there, I know there are similar topics here and elsewhere, but they’re a few years old, and I need an up-to-date answer to make sure I don’t throw over 1000 € out the window. Thanks for your patience.

I’m planning a trip from France to Alberta/British Columbia, and I’m unsure about which bank card to use for the security deposit with the rental company (I’m thinking of going with AVIS).

I contacted Avis Canada, and they told me a credit card is absolutely required. I asked my bank for a credit card (a *real* credit card), but they only offered me a deferred debit card.

My question: For a rental with Avis Canada, is a Gold International Mastercard deferred debit card usable for the security deposit needed to finalize the rental? Is the "CREDIT" label enough? (Some cards say "CREDIT" and others say "CARTE DE CREDIT"—seems minor, but it’s actually a big deal in how the card works.)

I’ve seen conflicting info everywhere I look... My bank says it’s *usually* okay (the deferred debit card), while Avis Canada insists it *must* be a credit card, not debit—even when I mention the deferred debit card.

I know the whole credit card concept is already confusing, and on top of that, some sites say a deferred debit card counts as a credit card, while others say it doesn’t.

Thanks to anyone who can share a recent experience! Have a great day
Locus Map on tablet vs PC
by Smopy44 · 2025-11-09 · 2 replies
Hi there,

I got a handlebar bag for my bike with a KlickFix system and a Galaxy Tab A tablet. I can fit the tablet into the waterproof transparent pouch on the bag—it’s absolutely awesome, I’ve got my dashboard right on the handlebar! I’d like to use Locus Map for geolocation and create a route from Nantes to Saint-Fiacre-sur-Maine. On my PC, with Locus Map, I see the interface on the left to create a planned route (like in the red-framed screenshot below). But on my tablet (using the app), I can’t find the interface to create a planned route from point A to B like I can on the PC. I need help figuring out how to create a route from A to B on my tablet with Locus Map—I know how to find and download a GPX file, but for Nantes to Saint-Fiacre-sur-Maine, there’s no GPX file available online. Also, does anyone know how to remove the ads on Locus Map?

Thanks in advance—David
Review of car rentals in Cancun
by Mimose · 2025-10-26 · 3 replies
Hi, I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car. I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others... Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot. I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs? A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me. Thanks for your feedback!
CFC Travel Insurance Certificate
by Tonyma · 2025-07-13 · 2 replies
Hi there, we’re planning an Adriatic cruise in September 2025 on CFC’s Renaissance ship—we’ve already sailed with them four times. For this new cruise, when entering passenger details, we’re asked to check the box “I have taken out insurance,” which is the first time this has been required. For recent sailings on the CFC Renaissance, did they ask you for an insurance certificate? Thanks
Taking out travel insurance after buying transport tickets
by Voyage75016 · 2025-06-09 · 3 replies
Hi there. I’m reaching out to ask for your advice about travel insurance for my trip.

I bought Eurostar tickets back in January, but I forgot to take out travel insurance right away.

I’d like to get multi-risk travel insurance now, but most insurers say you have to sign up within 48 to 72 hours after buying your transport tickets.

Do you know of any insurance that doesn’t have this deadline and lets you sign up even months after buying your tickets?

Thanks so much for your help in advance.

Best regards
Credit card for car rental in Panama
by Blogob · 2025-05-12 · 2 replies
Hi, I’m planning a trip to Panama and have a general question, because it seems that debit cards are systematically refused there.

Are there any credit cards available in France that I can use for travel without restrictions, especially for renting cars abroad?

I’d appreciate any useful info: bank names, how to sign up, specific requirements, guarantees, how much to put in the account, etc.

Thanks in advance!
Sabino Canyon
by Marcalamar · 2025-02-13 · 11 replies
Hi everyone! 🙂

Since my 2024 travel journal is finally posted, I’m diving into planning our September road trip to the part of Arizona we haven’t explored yet and to New Mexico, which we don’t know at all.



Flights, accommodations, and the rental car are all set—I just need to organize the stops. On the day we arrive in Phoenix (we’re staying in Gold Canyon), I’ve planned a visit to Lost Dutchman State Park at sunset with a short hike and a stop at Goldfield Ghost Town. I was thinking of driving as far as Tortilla Flat, but it might be tight, especially since our flight lands at 12:50 PM, and the most scenic part of the Apache Trail seems to be just past Tortilla Flat. The next day, we’re heading to Tucson for three nights. The first day will be dedicated to Saguaro East (near our hotel), the following day to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, then the Bajada Loop Drive with two short hikes, and the North Kidney Road up to the OVL. Finally, on the last day, we’ll visit Sabino Canyon and hike to Seven Falls—and this is where I could use your insights! The hike is 13 km if we don’t take the shuttle. If we do, it’s only 8 km. Are those kilometers flat, or does it climb right from the start? And if we take the shuttle, where should we get off? Is the trail well-marked? I’ve heard it’s not very clearly signposted.

Thanks in advance for your tips, and I’ll be back with more questions soon! Marcalamar 🙂
What insurance should I get for a long-term illness (ALD)?
by Brutusbrutus · 2025-01-14 · 4 replies
For 4 years now, my husband has been on ALD; no one will insure him. We’re supposed to leave for Bali in May, and I’ll have to cancel the trip because of this insurance issue. His ALD is cancer. Just like with trip cancellation insurance, it’s not valid if it’s for his health reasons—health issues are considered foreseeable, so they won’t reimburse you. Big problems with Carrefour travel agency.

Thanks for your help—I’m at a loss. Best,
The 4000 Islands (Southern Laos)
by Larsay · 2024-12-01 · 0 replies
PAKSE AND THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU

Bolavens (or "Bolovens" – "the region of the Lavens," an old tribe).

PAKSE

A sleepy town, but packed with backpackers in transit between Laos and Cambodia. The streets are numbered, but since there are no signs, you just have to figure it out (rumor has it the signs have been planned for years; luckily, the center isn’t big). Tons of small hotels, including the well-known Sabaidy 2 on Street 20, a big bazaar catering to all budgets, from dark dorms with shared bathrooms to real rooms with terraces or balconies. Since it’s so popular, booking ahead is recommended. My favorite: the Sala Champa, pricier but with two large terraces, one with a bar, and especially a terrace restaurant I consider the best in Pakse (try the divine steamed fish with lemongrass + Lao Gold beer, a rare delight; ask for room 100, with a big terrace). More upscale, the lovely Résidence Sisouk, run by the very classy and French-speaking Mme Sisouk, from the wealthy Lao Sisouk family, the country’s top coffee producer and one of those francophone families you encounter here and there around the world, where class and culture reign – and perfect French. Delicious pastries and, of course, extraordinary coffee tastings. Similar prices at the Pakse Hotel, run by French owners and famous for its rooftop bar-restaurant (great view!).

Tons of restaurants besides those at Sala Champa and Pakse Hotel: from Dao Lin and Sabaidee at the corner of Street 20 and 13, to a decent Indian place (Hassan) and a nice, cheap spot, the Lao Restaurant & Bar, where you can enjoy Lao cuisine for just a few kips, both also on Street 20. You can feast on grilled fish at the countless riverside stalls along the Mekong.

Pakse is home to the famous Yves, a Belgian married to a Lao woman, Noy, who opened the travel agency Miss Noy. He’ll go out of his way to help tourists; he’s incredible, the real tourism office for the region, with maps, endless advice, and every weekday at 6 PM, a full-blown lecture on the Bolavens and the 4000 Islands. A bunch of young travelers listen intently to his explanations about the whole area (he hands out a well-made photocopied map). He also rents bikes and has an internet café with computers that, miraculously, work perfectly. He’s so popular that in high season, you need to book a motorbike 2-3 days in advance (but if he’s out – and he has 40 – he’ll find one for you).

THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU

Plateaus just aren’t my thing – flat-lands! There are some relatively high peaks in the middle, but they’re only accessible by trekking. You can do a small loop from Pakse-Tad Lo-Thateng-Pakson-Pakse, or a big one from Tad Lo to Sekong, then head south to join the Paksong-Pakse road. Starting in the north, the Phu Xam waterfalls are okay (interesting local minority village-museum to the right of the parking lot, and a terrace restaurant above the small falls). Well, they’re on the way, so you might as well see them! After that, a boring road leads to the Tad Lo waterfalls, with tons of small hotels. I chose the big blue house by the river at the right corner of the bridge, the Sipaseth GH, with cute little bungalows in the garden, 4 rooms with balconies overlooking the river, and great food on the terrace facing the falls. **Avoid at all costs**: the Saisee GH, once nice with its little stilt houses by the falls, but now a monument to filth, indifference, and rudeness (confirmed by several people, unanimous on the issue). Luckily, the lovely Tad Lo Lodge, with its bungalows by the falls and gourmet restaurant right above them – not cheap at all – finally built small houses in the woods on the other side for $25.

The next morning, I’d had enough of plateaus, so I took a small loop heading south from Tad Lo to Thateng, and there, a wonder 5 km south of town: the Sinouk Resort. It’s like stepping into *Gone with the Wind* or the Chevalier de Leyritz’s Martinique. In the middle of the Sisouk family’s 34-hectare coffee plantation, a huge garden with three large colonial-style houses: one by the river and pond with a suite + 3 luxury rooms + a small, cozy one for $40 (that’s where I stayed), one with 4 superior rooms for $60, and a very large one overlooking everything with 6 luxury rooms ($60) + 2 huge suites for $90. Of course, it’s all decorated with antique furniture, local knick-knacks, and antiques; there’s a pool, a beautiful restaurant with two terraces, one overlooking a large pond and one by its edge. The food and service are impeccable, and the coffee: from espresso with whipped cream to green tea or wild honey cappuccino… too bad it keeps you up, or you’d sip it all evening (and morning, and afternoon, and in between). In short, a dream!

Back to Pakse via Paksong (what a dump!) and the Tad Fane waterfalls, those are spectacular – twin sisters plunging 200 meters. You can hike down to swim at the bottom (1-hour jungle trek round trip). Across the way, the nice Tad Fane Resort (small houses and a big terrace-restaurant facing the falls).

I think I missed the Katamkok waterfalls, but I don’t believe it – all these falls can’t compare to Ban Gioc Falls in northern Vietnam!!!

CHAMPASAK AND THE 4000 ISLANDS

CHAMPASAK

Even sleepier than Pakse! To avoid the ferry, cross the new Mekong bridge in Pakse, and after about 10 km, turn left at the big "Phaphinoy" sign (the first village in town). When you arrive, turn at the "River Resort" sign. A sumptuous resort on the Mekong, developed with American capital – pure luxury (they even have their own rice field and vegetable garden for the restaurant). Continuing on, you’ll come across the very pleasant Anouxa GH, where I had dinner and stayed. Small bungalows facing the river, garden rooms, and two large wooden houses with huge family rooms + a big terrace on the Mekong, and the food is great! They rent bikes and motorbikes. Further to the right, the pricey Inthira Hotel, which I found uninteresting since it’s on the road instead of by the Mekong. There’s also a Folie Lodge on Don Daeng Island, which I didn’t visit (the word "Folie" is justified: crazy prices, up to $200 and more).

A few nice wats and, of course, Wat Phou, Laos’ most important archaeological site, 10 km south of Champassak in the plains and on the mountainside (the stairs are a killer!). Watch out for the scorching heat, and it closes at 4:30 PM. It’s not Angkor Wat, but it’s still worth the detour. Plan for 2 hours. Entry is 50,000 kips + 5,000 to park your motorbike.

KHIET NGON

To continue south to the 4000 Islands, you have to take the "ferry" (actually fun little things – two canoes joined by a platform; better not mess up when loading your motorbike!). Once on the other side, turn left, and you’ll hit National Road 13 (Pakse-Siphandone, the 4000 Islands), the most boring road I’ve ever been on, like Phnom Penh-Siem Reap – flat and nothing to see. BUT there’s a real gem worth checking out: Kiet Ngon. At Km 48, take the laterite road toward Attapeu (big sign: "Attapeu 155 km") and eat red dust for 8 km (toll: 20,000 kips), then turn right (signposted) onto a good track. You enter the beautiful Xe Pian National Park, where you can still find wild elephants, leopards, and tigers. You arrive at the entrance of the small village of Ban Khiet Ngon. On your right, a small concrete building with 4 decent, cheap rooms (60,000 kips), facing an old wooden house that serves as the tourism office and its "elephant parking" garden. This village is where you can go on an elephant ride (20,000 kips) to the top of Phou Asa, one of the most unusual places I’ve ever seen. You climb through the jungle and emerge onto a flat slate summit, completely bare – it really feels like the Moon! In the distance, an astonishing site built to commemorate a victory by Lao nationalists over Siamese invaders in the 19th century (so the site isn’t 1,000 years old, as the locals claim). A vast archaeological site with an enclosure 180 m by 50 m, marked by 2-meter-high walls and columns made of slate stacked without mortar. At the back, a ruined temple and a tower. Beautiful views of the whole region. Popular with tourists arriving by minibus from Pakse. The elephant rides in a line aren’t my thing, so they tell you it’s forbidden to ride a motorbike, but I did it anyway without any issues – except for the unhappy looks from the mahouts (turn right at the village entrance, sign for "Phou Asa").

If you’ve got the funds, follow the signs for "Kingfisher Lodge" and arrive at Laos’ first ecolodge, developed by a Lao-Italian family. Lovely stilt houses (750,000 kips with breakfast) and 2 bungalows with just fans (250,000 kips). A small two-story wooden building with a restaurant and a terrace by a pond – the bonus: in the evening, wild elephants and buffalo come to drink with you. Booking ahead is recommended since it’s popular with groups from Pakse.

Paper guides also mention the more remote village of Ban Papho, deep in the jungle. There used to be elephant rides, but they’ve stopped. However, there are great treks in the national park (check with the Green Discovery agency in Pakse, which specializes in treks all over Laos).

THE 4000 ISLANDS

You continue on the mind-numbing Road 13 from Pakse and arrive at a brand-new bridge leading to Don Khong Island, where there’s nothing to see except two wats, so if you skip it, you’re not missing much. Next, the Nakasang sign, a small port with mini-ferries crossing the Mekong to Don Det Island. A celebrity, that one – one of those trashy spots for young people who think you can only have fun if you’re wasted on alcohol and drugs. A small street along the river, lined with guesthouses, restaurants, and bars – total chaos! Plus, there’s nothing to see on the island. So, take a tuk-tuk from the jetty, cross the dump, and arrive in a little paradise: Don Khone Island. I planned to stay 2 days but had to be dragged away after 6. A small main village with a dirt road, tons of guesthouses and great restaurants, and lots of beautiful things to see.

For lodging on Don Khone, it’s usually wooden bungalows with river-view terraces. Options range from the elegant and pricey Sala Done Hotel to Somphamit, Pan’s, Pakha GH, and many others. I found my haven away from everything: the little Phonvilay, 3 small bamboo buildings with 2 simple rooms each, terraces above a branch of the Mekong, and a big plus – a small path just to the right that goes down the riverbank, so 3-4 nice swims a day. All for 60,000 kips. To get there, turn right at the end of the bridge until you reach the wat, then take the small path to the river on the right of the wat’s wall.

For food, you’re spoiled for choice. I had all my dinners at the Cordon Bleu of the Fleur du Mékong. I don’t know how she does it, but even the simplest dishes have something extra. She’s famous for her curry (more like a mild stew) of duck or chicken with potatoes and sweet potatoes – a hearty treat. Go for the chicken; Asian ducks are all skin and bones. Her grilled fish is divine!

The island has quite a history: the Mekong upstream is over a kilometer wide (it’s said to reach 14 km during high water) and "falls" onto a rocky barrier. It splits into countless small branches, flowing wherever there’s a crack – hence the 4000 Islands and the impressive rapids. The French discovered this while trying to navigate the Mekong from Saigon to Luang Prabang and China – and bam, impassable! So they built a narrow-gauge railway starting from the south of the island, bypassing the rapids, and ending at the north of Don Det Island. You can see two rusted locomotives, discovered in the jungle in 1990 by a French explorer: one in the southern extension of the bridge and the other in Ban Hang Khone village at the southern tip of the island, both with large English signs and fascinating old photos explaining the whole history of the railway, abandoned when Road 13 was built along the 4000 Islands (the rails were removed, and the railway track is now an excellent trail).

Somphamit Rapids (Li Phi)

Locals call them Li Phi, meaning "the abyss of evil spirits" (the "phi" that Lao people still believe in), because they think the falls and rapids trap spirits, to the point that no one would ever swim there. It’s very dramatic. Entry fee: 35,000 kips. Small beach and a big restaurant with a terrace and thatched-roof tables.

Khon Pa Sai Rapids

A completely different kind, just as spectacular, and less crowded. Turn left at the bridge exit and go to the northern end of the island (Ban Khon Nua village), then continue south until you see a big yellow sign "Khon Pa Sai Waterfalls" pointing to a small path on the left. You arrive at a small suspension bridge with a corner restaurant and terrace where the food is great (I had most of my lunches there). Cross the bridge and follow the path to a spectacular site of falls and rapids. In the middle, you’ll see unique structures – gigantic fish traps over 10 meters long. During high water, each trap can catch up to 500 kg of fish (yes, five hundred) per day.

Ban Hang Khone

This is the "French port" at the southern tip of the island, where the Mekong, after its rapids, spreads out for kilometers – a real inland sea. This is where you can see the famous Irrawaddy dolphins in the morning or late afternoon (boat excursions). To get there, take the trail that was the old railway track, or continue south on the path past the Khon Pa Sai falls (but not by motorbike – the bridge is out). A huge concrete terrace, part of the old port facilities, with a magnificent panoramic view of the Mekong stretching into the distance. Just before, a small path leads to a big beach (with restaurants).

If you go back to Road 13 (or take a pirogue from Don Khone), further south are the Pha Peng Falls, Asia’s highest river falls (15 m). I didn’t go, but they’re said to be spectacular.

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