Results for "distance+|+28"
40508 results found.
SadCars = Loueur à éviter en Islande English translation pending
Salut à toutes et tous,
Nous sommes revenus hier d'une semaine dans le sud de l'Islande. Une semaine absolument top, l'île est magnifique !
Par contre, croyant faire de petites économies, nous avons eu plusieurs mauvaises surprises avec le loueur par lequel nous sommes passés : SadCars.
Ce loueur propose des véhicules un peu plus âgés que les autres agences donc moins chères en théorie. Nous avions loué un 4x4 Grand Vitara pour 6 jours - Budget proposé sur le net à 317 € avec un GPS gratos (ca ne sert d'ailleurs à rien sur l'île !). Au final le GPS a été facturé => 387 € prélevés sur le compte.
La voiture... Une poubelle qui n'avait pas de feux arrières, nous nous en sommes rendus compte lors de la première tempête de neige en vérifiant les feux... La 5ème passait mal et dès que l'on dépassait les 80 km/h, une grosse odeur de chaud... Des essuie glace avant et arrière qui ne remplissaient que peu leur fonction. Ca passe sous la neige, mais sous la pluie c'est carrément dangereux. Et cerise sur le capot, le petit truc pas grave mais qui gonfle sévère avec l'accumulation, la commande d'ouverture à distance ne fonctionnait plus => ouverture à l'ancienne sous la pluie, humm plaisir !
SadCars est dans les locaux d'une guest à Reykjavic et nous y avons logé deux nuits (d'ou le "discount" initial). J'ai parlé de ces problèmes à l'accueil de SadCars, rien à carrer dans un premier temps puis limite agressif quand j'ai insisté.
En résumé, loueur à éviter car dangereux avec leurs voitures pas entretenues. N'essayez pas de faire de petites économies sur cette dépense là, la voiture est indispensable pour se déplacer et vu les conditions météo que nous avons eu, c'est aussi votre sécurité !
Donc évitez SadCars, mais allez en Islande c'est absolument top !!
Par contre, croyant faire de petites économies, nous avons eu plusieurs mauvaises surprises avec le loueur par lequel nous sommes passés : SadCars.
Ce loueur propose des véhicules un peu plus âgés que les autres agences donc moins chères en théorie. Nous avions loué un 4x4 Grand Vitara pour 6 jours - Budget proposé sur le net à 317 € avec un GPS gratos (ca ne sert d'ailleurs à rien sur l'île !). Au final le GPS a été facturé => 387 € prélevés sur le compte.
La voiture... Une poubelle qui n'avait pas de feux arrières, nous nous en sommes rendus compte lors de la première tempête de neige en vérifiant les feux... La 5ème passait mal et dès que l'on dépassait les 80 km/h, une grosse odeur de chaud... Des essuie glace avant et arrière qui ne remplissaient que peu leur fonction. Ca passe sous la neige, mais sous la pluie c'est carrément dangereux. Et cerise sur le capot, le petit truc pas grave mais qui gonfle sévère avec l'accumulation, la commande d'ouverture à distance ne fonctionnait plus => ouverture à l'ancienne sous la pluie, humm plaisir !
SadCars est dans les locaux d'une guest à Reykjavic et nous y avons logé deux nuits (d'ou le "discount" initial). J'ai parlé de ces problèmes à l'accueil de SadCars, rien à carrer dans un premier temps puis limite agressif quand j'ai insisté.
En résumé, loueur à éviter car dangereux avec leurs voitures pas entretenues. N'essayez pas de faire de petites économies sur cette dépense là, la voiture est indispensable pour se déplacer et vu les conditions météo que nous avons eu, c'est aussi votre sécurité !
Donc évitez SadCars, mais allez en Islande c'est absolument top !!
Voyage au Vietnam du Sud: conseils English translation pending
Bonjour à tous,
Je pars avec mon compagnon du 05/03/ au 02/04/2015, atterrissage à 07 h 25' à HCMV. Celui-ci est fou de kite-surf, donc 10 premiers jours : Mui Ne où nous avons déjà réservé une chambre. Ensuite désirons visiter le delta du Mékong, des temples et autres lieux intéressants. Que nous conseillez-vous ? Pensions réserver qq. jours sur HCMV au retour mais je pense que ce sera juste la dernière journée... après lecture " bruyante " de vos témoignages lol ! Ce voyage est le 1° en Asie. Voici donc les questions qui nous préoccupent : - Arrivée à l' aéroport : comment gagner la ville de Mui Ne ( 220 Kms env. ) - A quel endroit dans l' aérogare, changer nos 1° euros en dongs, afin de payer notre 1° transport ? - L' hôtel propose la possibilité d' assurer le transport mais vu la distance, le prix doit être élevé, j' attends une réponse à ce sujet. - Si vos conseils sont de " marchander ", dans quelles proportions le faire sans être piégés en tant que touristes ni faire perdre la face à un vendeur en demandant un prix trop faible ? Merci de vos conseils et astuces, la lecture de vos réponses est un vrai régal ( je suis déjà en voyage ) ! A noter que nos bagages sont nombreux vu le matériel de kite. Grand merci à vous toutes et tous. Cordiales salutations.
Je pars avec mon compagnon du 05/03/ au 02/04/2015, atterrissage à 07 h 25' à HCMV. Celui-ci est fou de kite-surf, donc 10 premiers jours : Mui Ne où nous avons déjà réservé une chambre. Ensuite désirons visiter le delta du Mékong, des temples et autres lieux intéressants. Que nous conseillez-vous ? Pensions réserver qq. jours sur HCMV au retour mais je pense que ce sera juste la dernière journée... après lecture " bruyante " de vos témoignages lol ! Ce voyage est le 1° en Asie. Voici donc les questions qui nous préoccupent : - Arrivée à l' aéroport : comment gagner la ville de Mui Ne ( 220 Kms env. ) - A quel endroit dans l' aérogare, changer nos 1° euros en dongs, afin de payer notre 1° transport ? - L' hôtel propose la possibilité d' assurer le transport mais vu la distance, le prix doit être élevé, j' attends une réponse à ce sujet. - Si vos conseils sont de " marchander ", dans quelles proportions le faire sans être piégés en tant que touristes ni faire perdre la face à un vendeur en demandant un prix trop faible ? Merci de vos conseils et astuces, la lecture de vos réponses est un vrai régal ( je suis déjà en voyage ) ! A noter que nos bagages sont nombreux vu le matériel de kite. Grand merci à vous toutes et tous. Cordiales salutations.
Pattaya: Walking Street ou Beach Road pour un hôtel? English translation pending
bonjour,
pour la 1er fois je vais aller a pattaya , profiter de walking street est beach road.
je voudrais savoir tout d'abord la longueur de ces rues a peu prés, le temps que l'on met pour les parcourir a pied le long de la plage.
ensuite quelle est pour vous l'endroit le mieux pour un hotel, walking ou beach road. sachant que le calme est assez important, je pense a une soi un peu calme par exemple, si vous avez une idée.
pour terminer , que pensez vous de pattaya, l'ambiance que l'on trouve, est ce que c'est assez proche de bangkok par exemple pour ce qui est des gens...bref vos impression. merci
je voudrais savoir tout d'abord la longueur de ces rues a peu prés, le temps que l'on met pour les parcourir a pied le long de la plage.
ensuite quelle est pour vous l'endroit le mieux pour un hotel, walking ou beach road. sachant que le calme est assez important, je pense a une soi un peu calme par exemple, si vous avez une idée.
pour terminer , que pensez vous de pattaya, l'ambiance que l'on trouve, est ce que c'est assez proche de bangkok par exemple pour ce qui est des gens...bref vos impression. merci
Hôtel près de New York, mais aucune visite de New York (avec enfants) English translation pending
Bonjour!
question étrange peut-être.
Je pars de Montréal à destination de Washington. Avec 2 enfants, je vais devoir arrêter en chemin pour la nuit. La coupure naturelle serait dans le coin de New York. Cependant, je ne désire aucunement visiter New York. Connaissez-vous un hôtel intéressant pour les enfants? Je pense notamment à un parc proche, la possibilité d'aller prendre une marche après le souper, etc... Je pensais contourner New York en prenant la I-287.
Merci!
question étrange peut-être.
Je pars de Montréal à destination de Washington. Avec 2 enfants, je vais devoir arrêter en chemin pour la nuit. La coupure naturelle serait dans le coin de New York. Cependant, je ne désire aucunement visiter New York. Connaissez-vous un hôtel intéressant pour les enfants? Je pense notamment à un parc proche, la possibilité d'aller prendre une marche après le souper, etc... Je pensais contourner New York en prenant la I-287.
Merci!
Que faire après la Loire à vélo? English translation pending
Bonjour à tous,
L'été dernier, nous avons parcouru la Loire à vélo de Nevers à Saint-Nazaire et nous en avons été ravi ! Vu que la barre a été placée directement très haut, se pose maintenant la question de savoir où nous allons aller pédaler cet été sans risque d'être déçu par les paysages et les aménagements.
L'idée, comme nous avons fait l'année passée, est d'embarquer nos vélos sur la voiture (ou dans le train) et de rallier un point de départ à max. 600 km de Liège en Belgique. Pour le parcours, il peut s'agir d'une boucle ou d'un tracé linaire mais alors avec possibilité de faire le retour en train comme pour la Loire à vélo. Côté distance et dénivelé, entre 500 et 800 km avec, si possible, pas trop de dénivelé (pour madame). Alors, avez-vous des idées ou expériences qui correspondraient à cela ?
De mon côté, je pensais à ces parcours mais j'ai très peu de retours d'expérience donc si vous en avez, n'hésitez pas à partager :Tour de la manche : Petit, grand ? Quelle est leur distance ? Niveau météo, n'est-ce pas risqué ? Les aménagements sont-ils au niveau de la Loire à vélo ?La Loire à vélo, de Bale à Nevers (EV6) : Après fait Nevers - Saint-Nazaire, ne risque-t-on pas d'être déçu par ce tronçon ? Quelqu'un a déjà-t-il fait ces 2 tronçons ?Le Rhin à vélo (EV15), de Cologne au Lac de Constance (Suisse) : Quelqu'un a-t-il un retour d'expérience ?Si vous d'autres idées, n'hésitez pas... Un grand merci d'avance !
L'été dernier, nous avons parcouru la Loire à vélo de Nevers à Saint-Nazaire et nous en avons été ravi ! Vu que la barre a été placée directement très haut, se pose maintenant la question de savoir où nous allons aller pédaler cet été sans risque d'être déçu par les paysages et les aménagements.
L'idée, comme nous avons fait l'année passée, est d'embarquer nos vélos sur la voiture (ou dans le train) et de rallier un point de départ à max. 600 km de Liège en Belgique. Pour le parcours, il peut s'agir d'une boucle ou d'un tracé linaire mais alors avec possibilité de faire le retour en train comme pour la Loire à vélo. Côté distance et dénivelé, entre 500 et 800 km avec, si possible, pas trop de dénivelé (pour madame). Alors, avez-vous des idées ou expériences qui correspondraient à cela ?
De mon côté, je pensais à ces parcours mais j'ai très peu de retours d'expérience donc si vous en avez, n'hésitez pas à partager :Tour de la manche : Petit, grand ? Quelle est leur distance ? Niveau météo, n'est-ce pas risqué ? Les aménagements sont-ils au niveau de la Loire à vélo ?La Loire à vélo, de Bale à Nevers (EV6) : Après fait Nevers - Saint-Nazaire, ne risque-t-on pas d'être déçu par ce tronçon ? Quelqu'un a déjà-t-il fait ces 2 tronçons ?Le Rhin à vélo (EV15), de Cologne au Lac de Constance (Suisse) : Quelqu'un a-t-il un retour d'expérience ?Si vous d'autres idées, n'hésitez pas... Un grand merci d'avance !
Itinéraire routier le plus ideal et sécurisé entre Relizane et Sousse? English translation pending
Y'a t il quelqu'un qui peut me renseigner sur l'itinéraire routier le plus ideal et sécurisé en voiture entre relizane et sousse tunisie) et quelque astuce comme par ex l'hotel le manger le contact avec les gens et merci d'avance
Prix de reviens d'un aller-retour Agde-Agadir English translation pending
bonjour a tous
j'aimerais savoir combien je doit prévoir financièrement pour le trajet
aller et retour de Agde (34) et Agadir (Maroc) traversée comprise
a savoir que je consomme 12l au 100 de gazoil et que mon camping-car fait 8m60 et pèse 5t5
je ne suis jamais allé au Maroc et je voudrais passer l'hiver 2014/2015
si vous pouvez me donner l'itinéraire et les étapes sympas en Espagne puis de la descente du bateau a Agadir merci cordialement
je ne suis jamais allé au Maroc et je voudrais passer l'hiver 2014/2015
si vous pouvez me donner l'itinéraire et les étapes sympas en Espagne puis de la descente du bateau a Agadir merci cordialement
Passage terrestre Colombie / Vénézuela English translation pending
Je cherche toute info pertinente concernant le passage terrestre Colombie / Venezuela.Est-ce que vous recommande une ville en particulier pour effectuer le passage (Securite, etc..)Connaissez-vous des bus avec un bon rapport qualite/prix?Nous voulons faire du camping, en Colombie, avez-vous des lieux a recommandes? Des plages ou lon peut camper gratuitement?
Finalement, pour voyager en Colombie, est-ce que cest cest moins couteux en train?
Merci de repondre le plus rapidement possible... 😎
Finalement, pour voyager en Colombie, est-ce que cest cest moins couteux en train?
Merci de repondre le plus rapidement possible... 😎
Irlande à vélo English translation pending
Bonsoir
Voila je me prend 1 mois en Irlande en Mai pour l’Irlande .. Je demarre donc mon voyage de roscoff ou je prend un ferry pour cork , ville de départ et fin de mon voyage .
Ne connaissant pas dutout ce pays je demande quelques infos au personnes l'ayant déjà visité
Quels sont les sites a voir absolument ? sachant que j'aime les site naturel et vierge car toujours en quête de liberté
Est ce que le cout de la vie y ai chère ?
Les gens sont accueillant et chaleureux ?
Ou dormir pas chère ? ( jai la tente quand mème )
Le camping sauvage autorisé ? le feu ?
Ya til d'autres choses a savoir ?
🙂 Merci stephane
Voila je me prend 1 mois en Irlande en Mai pour l’Irlande .. Je demarre donc mon voyage de roscoff ou je prend un ferry pour cork , ville de départ et fin de mon voyage .
Ne connaissant pas dutout ce pays je demande quelques infos au personnes l'ayant déjà visité
Quels sont les sites a voir absolument ? sachant que j'aime les site naturel et vierge car toujours en quête de liberté
Est ce que le cout de la vie y ai chère ?
Les gens sont accueillant et chaleureux ?
Ou dormir pas chère ? ( jai la tente quand mème )
Le camping sauvage autorisé ? le feu ?
Ya til d'autres choses a savoir ?
🙂 Merci stephane
Transports sur l'île de Senja (Norvège) English translation pending
Bonjour,
nous partons en famille cet été dans le nord de la Norvège (Tromso + Senja + Lofoten) et je cherche à savoir quel moyen de transport est le plus adapté pour les transferts dans l'île de Senja : Bus, location de voiture ou taxi ?
Nous sommes 5 adultes et souhaitons faire quelques petites randos à pieds ou à vélo.
J'ai du mal à obtenir des infos sur les tarifs.
Merci si quelqu'un peut m'apporter ces infos.
Quelle voiture choisir pour l'Ouest américain? English translation pending
Bonjour,
Pour mon voyage dans l'ouest américain, je me demande quelle voiture louer. Sur Alamo il y a: Chevrolet Spark, Nisan Versa ou Toyota Corola. Je ne veux pas une trop grande voiture pour la facilité à conduire mais il faut qu'elle monte au grand canyon, à Bryce canyon etc...
Merci pour votre aide
Pour mon voyage dans l'ouest américain, je me demande quelle voiture louer. Sur Alamo il y a: Chevrolet Spark, Nisan Versa ou Toyota Corola. Je ne veux pas une trop grande voiture pour la facilité à conduire mais il faut qu'elle monte au grand canyon, à Bryce canyon etc...
Merci pour votre aide
Argent en Argentine English translation pending
Je pars le 2 février pour l'Argentine où je vais rester 7 semaines pour un grand tour vers le Sud et l'Ouest du pays en routard. Quelle monnaie est-il préférable d'emporter, Euros ou Dollars? A combien peut-on estimer le coût moyen d'une journée (transport en bus, hôtel de catégorie moyenne, restau idem et visites incontournables)?
Bus de Bangkok à Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) English translation pending
Bonsoir, J'arriverai à l'aéroport internat. de Bkk à 7h30 le matin, je désire aller en bus à Phimai, je vois que la grande ville (direction principale) c'est Khorat. De l'aéroport comment se rendre à la bonne gare routière et quel est son nom? merci
Tarifs snorkeling en Thailande? English translation pending
Bonjour à tous!!
Quelqu'un pourrait me donner un ordre de prix pour une apres midi snorkeling? J'ai beau chercher, pas moyen de trouver ne serait ce qu'une fourchette de prix? En l'occurrence pour nous se serait pour 2, et du coté des iles de koh lanta, koh ngai etc...
En meme temps, une balade dans la mangrove, une idée du prix?
Merci d'avance!!
Quelqu'un pourrait me donner un ordre de prix pour une apres midi snorkeling? J'ai beau chercher, pas moyen de trouver ne serait ce qu'une fourchette de prix? En l'occurrence pour nous se serait pour 2, et du coté des iles de koh lanta, koh ngai etc...
En meme temps, une balade dans la mangrove, une idée du prix?
Merci d'avance!!
WikiSafari: le guide permanent de bonne conduite en safari English translation pending
Bonne conduite, mais pas forcément de bonnes manières.
Le but de cette discussion est de relever les "bonnes pratiques" du safari. Que faut il faire ? Que faut-il ne pas faire ? Pour se donner le maximum de chances de voir les animaux bien sûr, mais aussi pour éviter l'accident.
Après de rapides recherches, j'ai trouvé quelques post sur le forum, mais je n'ai pas retrouvé de discussion, pourtant il doit certainement en exister. Un site Sudaf qui donne de bons conseils.
Matériel de base Conseils bateaux et faciles à retrouver :
-Utiliser un véhicule surélevé pour avoir une vue au dessus des herbes.
-Ne pas sortir dudit véhicule en dehors des aires autorisées, sachant que dans certains parcs peu fréquentés, il n'y a pas d'aires "autorisées", chacun gère le danger comme il le sent avec son expérience.
-Ne pas ouvrir les portes et fenêtres pour prendre en photo le lion qui est là, tout près, ne pas non plus ouvrir la porte pour pouvoir "le prendre de plus haut", certains le font pourtant et s'en vantent ! ils se reconnaîtront 😉
-Sortir plutôt au lever et coucher du soleil qu'en plein midi.
-Se poster aux abords des points d'eau et attendre.
-Se poster aux " points d'observation" et attendre ( à noter qu'ils semblent bien se trouver souvent près des points d'eau ! Ce qui est très astucieux...)
-Préférer la saison sèche permet de voir de plus grosses concentrations d'animaux aux dits points d'eau.
-Roulez doucement, si vous voyez un départ de guépard, ne cherchez surtout pas à le suivre : mieux vaut rentrer tard que prendre un ch'tar mon lascar .
-Si un gros animal vient vers vous, reculez doucement. S'il accélère, reculez un peu plus vite, s'il accélère encore, c'est foutu...
-Si un petit animal vient vers vous, roulez lui dessus, ça lui apprendra et ça rendra service à l'espèce : avec un peu de chance, il ne s'est pas encore reproduit...
-Ne pas faire vrombir le moteur, ne pas klaxonner, ne pas faire d'appels de phare qui pourraient aggraver la situation. Si vous voulez aggraver la situation " pour voir vu que vous avez une bonne assurance", faites les 3 en même temps et venez nous raconter...
-Si la grosse bête attaque quand même, au lieu de prier bêtement, mettez vous du côté opposé de la voiture si vous pouvez et hurlez, vous verrez , ça fait du bien. Si la grosse bête retourne votre voiture, ne maudissez pas Erwan de vous avoir dit de détacher votre ceinture pour aller de l'autre côté : mieux vaut un torticolis qu'une perforation par défense d'éléphant ou par corne de rhino.
-Respectez une "distance de sécurité" 😮 ( alors là, oui : c'est très vague et à l'appréciation de chacun selon la bestiole considérée, il n'est pas facile du tout de déterminer qu'on est à 100 ou à 50 m d'un lapin, il faut connaître pour cela la taille du lapin et en déduire l'hypoténuse...vraiment pas simple...)
-Ne cherchez pas à imiter le cri des animaux, surtout des gros..vous pouvez faire Tarzan si ça vous chante, mais ça pourrait être mal pris par certains crocodiles qui n'ont pas apprécié les films...il est notoirement plus prudent d'imiter Edouard Balladur ou Raymond Barre (pour ceux qui s'en souviennent)
-Il est recommandé sur le site que j'ai mis en lien, de ne pas fumer , mais il semble que c'est plus pour éviter de foutre le feu à la savane qu'autre chose...Vu du nez d'un animal sauvage, une clope ne doit pas sembler beaucoup plus exotique que l'odeur d'un pot d'échappement...
Chacun peut faire un copié collé de ces conseils, les remettre sur son post en corrigeant ce qu'il juge bon, merci de noter les corrections en caractère gras, le posteur suivant corrige à son tour la correction etc...
Le but de cette discussion est de relever les "bonnes pratiques" du safari. Que faut il faire ? Que faut-il ne pas faire ? Pour se donner le maximum de chances de voir les animaux bien sûr, mais aussi pour éviter l'accident.
Après de rapides recherches, j'ai trouvé quelques post sur le forum, mais je n'ai pas retrouvé de discussion, pourtant il doit certainement en exister. Un site Sudaf qui donne de bons conseils.
Matériel de base Conseils bateaux et faciles à retrouver :
-Utiliser un véhicule surélevé pour avoir une vue au dessus des herbes.
-Ne pas sortir dudit véhicule en dehors des aires autorisées, sachant que dans certains parcs peu fréquentés, il n'y a pas d'aires "autorisées", chacun gère le danger comme il le sent avec son expérience.
-Ne pas ouvrir les portes et fenêtres pour prendre en photo le lion qui est là, tout près, ne pas non plus ouvrir la porte pour pouvoir "le prendre de plus haut", certains le font pourtant et s'en vantent ! ils se reconnaîtront 😉
-Sortir plutôt au lever et coucher du soleil qu'en plein midi.
-Se poster aux abords des points d'eau et attendre.
-Se poster aux " points d'observation" et attendre ( à noter qu'ils semblent bien se trouver souvent près des points d'eau ! Ce qui est très astucieux...)
-Préférer la saison sèche permet de voir de plus grosses concentrations d'animaux aux dits points d'eau.
-Roulez doucement, si vous voyez un départ de guépard, ne cherchez surtout pas à le suivre : mieux vaut rentrer tard que prendre un ch'tar mon lascar .
-Si un gros animal vient vers vous, reculez doucement. S'il accélère, reculez un peu plus vite, s'il accélère encore, c'est foutu...
-Si un petit animal vient vers vous, roulez lui dessus, ça lui apprendra et ça rendra service à l'espèce : avec un peu de chance, il ne s'est pas encore reproduit...
-Ne pas faire vrombir le moteur, ne pas klaxonner, ne pas faire d'appels de phare qui pourraient aggraver la situation. Si vous voulez aggraver la situation " pour voir vu que vous avez une bonne assurance", faites les 3 en même temps et venez nous raconter...
-Si la grosse bête attaque quand même, au lieu de prier bêtement, mettez vous du côté opposé de la voiture si vous pouvez et hurlez, vous verrez , ça fait du bien. Si la grosse bête retourne votre voiture, ne maudissez pas Erwan de vous avoir dit de détacher votre ceinture pour aller de l'autre côté : mieux vaut un torticolis qu'une perforation par défense d'éléphant ou par corne de rhino.
-Respectez une "distance de sécurité" 😮 ( alors là, oui : c'est très vague et à l'appréciation de chacun selon la bestiole considérée, il n'est pas facile du tout de déterminer qu'on est à 100 ou à 50 m d'un lapin, il faut connaître pour cela la taille du lapin et en déduire l'hypoténuse...vraiment pas simple...)
-Ne cherchez pas à imiter le cri des animaux, surtout des gros..vous pouvez faire Tarzan si ça vous chante, mais ça pourrait être mal pris par certains crocodiles qui n'ont pas apprécié les films...il est notoirement plus prudent d'imiter Edouard Balladur ou Raymond Barre (pour ceux qui s'en souviennent)
-Il est recommandé sur le site que j'ai mis en lien, de ne pas fumer , mais il semble que c'est plus pour éviter de foutre le feu à la savane qu'autre chose...Vu du nez d'un animal sauvage, une clope ne doit pas sembler beaucoup plus exotique que l'odeur d'un pot d'échappement...
Chacun peut faire un copié collé de ces conseils, les remettre sur son post en corrigeant ce qu'il juge bon, merci de noter les corrections en caractère gras, le posteur suivant corrige à son tour la correction etc...
Itinéraire de trente-trois jours Californie - Arizona - Nouveau-Mexique - Colorado - Utah English translation pending
Bonjour, je vous sollicite pour avoir votre avis sur un itinéraire de 33 jours en Mai 2014 établi en m'inspirant des échanges sur le Forum. Mais d'abord un grand merci à Papj69, Max 68, Bastinj, Lespartiate, Krikri792 (aïe, je crois que j'en oublie)qui lors de mon 1er post, m'ont permis de me mettre sur la voie de leurs carnets de voyages, m'ont suggéré des destinations, et m'ont donné envie d'élargir mon circuit...
Pour rappel nous sommes 2 adultes(55 et 57 ans). C'est notre 1er voyage, nous ne sommes ni randonneurs ni sportifs, nous sommes attirés par ce qui touche à la culture indienne(sites et musée), par la Turquoise( mines, bijoux, ...) les sites naturels ( GC, MV, Moab), et nous préférons les courtes distances nous permettant de flâner et de visiter en prenant notre temps! Nous dormirons dans la voiture ( moins cher) pour être au plus prêts des sites.
Allez, je me lance:
J1: Lyon- Paris - Los Angeles( vol direct Air France ou Air Tahiti) Arrivée vers 14h.
J2: Los Angeles- Joshua Tree- 213km/2h15
J3: Joshua Tree-Phoenix ( Heard Museum)- 480km/4h30
J4: Phoenix -Apache Trail-Tonto NM -Globe-
J5: Globe-Tucson - 176km/2h15- Old Tucson
J6: Tucson (Sonoran Desert Museum-Sagaro West NP)
J7: Tucson-Tombstone-112km/1h20 (show Ok Coral)
Tombstone- Bisbee-37km/25mn-(Visite mine)
J8: Bisbee- Chiricahua NM-113km/2h
J9: Chiricahua NM-Silver Gold(mine) 231km/3h15
J10: Silver Gold-White Sands 345km/3h40-
J11: White Sands-Albuquerque-
J12: Albuquerque ( Indian Pueblo, Muséum Pueblo cultural, Turquoise Muséum)
J13: Santa-Fe-Turquoise Trail-200 km/3h ( en montant à Sandia Park)-Santa Fe-
J14: Santa Fe ( M.Georgia O'Keefe, San Miguel Mission)- Taos- 113km/1h30
J15: Taos-Taos Pueblo-5km/10mn(le matin)-Bandelier NM (120km/1h40)-
J16: Bandelier NM-Chaco Culture-280km/4h.
J17: Chaco Culture
J18: Chaco Culture-Aztec Ruins-123km/2h-Durango-60km/1h
J19: Durango-Mesa Verde-58km/50mn-Moab- 202km/2h10
J20: Moab
J21: Moab-Monument Valley-240km/2h45
J22: Monument Valley-Canyon de Chelly-114km/1h50.
J23: Canyon de Chelly-
J24: Canyon de Chelly-Trading Poste-Gallup-Zuni Pueblo-220km/3H
J25: Zuni Pueblo-El Morro-52km/40mn-
J25: El Morro-Pétrified Forest-202km/2h10
J26: Pétrified Forest-Flagstaff-Grand Canyon-317km/3h
J27: Grand Canyon
J28: Grand Canyon-Sedona-180km/2h
J29: Sedona
J30: Sedona-Kingman(mines)-310km/3h30
J31: Kingman-Barstow-332km/3h10
J32: Barstow-Los Angeles-212km/2h.
J33: Retour Los Angeles-Paris-Lyon-
Pardon pour la longueur de ce post, et merci d'avance à tous ceux qui voudront m'éclairer à partir de leurs expériences.
Pardon pour la longueur de ce post, et merci d'avance à tous ceux qui voudront m'éclairer à partir de leurs expériences.
Retour de cinq semaines en Éthiopie English translation pending
Après 5 semaines là-bas avec mon sac à dos, je donne quelques infos à ceux que ça intéresserait, c'est à dire ceux qui se déplacent par leur propres moyens. Ce mode de transport est tout à fait possible avec les bus quoique les trajets soient très longs et fatigants, démarrant dans le noir à 5 h du matin - gaffe aux voleurs- et durant toute la journée car les distances sont longues et les routes souvent mauvaises. Presque pas d'arrêts d'où nécessité de prendre ses précautions...
Toutefois cet inconvénient majeur est largement compensé par la beauté des paysages qui fait à mon sens l'intérêt principal de ce pays. Il est par conséquent peu recommandé de prendre l'avion car on passe à côté...au dessus plutôt.
Pour le reste, je m'étonne des tenants de la "gastronomie" locale !
C’est là que je fis ma première - et dernière- ingestion d’injera, le plat national dégusté avec les doigts de la main droite, matin, midi et soir par toute la population, une grande galette d’une céréale appelée teff sur laquelle se renverse un petit plat d’un ragoût indéfini à l’odeur aigrelette, prégnante, écoeurante. Si bien que ladite odeur imprègne le pays tout entier dans les transports publics les corps la transpirent, de même que les billets de banque éthiopiens la puent, surtout les petites coupures de quelques birrs, bouts de papiers noircis par les tripotages, déchirés, recollés, chiffonnés, tirebouchonnés, immondes. Je ne me suis jamais tant lavé les mains de façon obsessionnelle.
Les prix de tout ont flambé et il ne faut pas se fier au LP dépassé complètement, ni à certains posts qu'on dirait convenus. Pour les étrangers, c'est sans vergogne que les prix d'entrée sont affichés 10 fois plus chers, une forme de ségrégation en quelque sorte. Le summum est atteint par le clergé qui au 6 Janvier où je suis arrivée à Lalibella a porté l'entrée des églises de 350 birs - ce qui était déjà bien cher - à 50 dollars... Le tort qu'ils portent à l'économie du tourisme local, ils s'en fichent, puisqu'il y a toujours des toutous pour payer... Je crois que quand la nouvelle aura circulé, bon nombre de voyageur à budget moyen ne s'y rendront plus et bien des voyageurs ont dû faire demie-route. Pour ma part, avec cette somme, j'ai pris un billet d'avion pour Addis, ce qui m'a permis ensuite de faire un tour dans le sud...
C’est là que je fis ma première - et dernière- ingestion d’injera, le plat national dégusté avec les doigts de la main droite, matin, midi et soir par toute la population, une grande galette d’une céréale appelée teff sur laquelle se renverse un petit plat d’un ragoût indéfini à l’odeur aigrelette, prégnante, écoeurante. Si bien que ladite odeur imprègne le pays tout entier dans les transports publics les corps la transpirent, de même que les billets de banque éthiopiens la puent, surtout les petites coupures de quelques birrs, bouts de papiers noircis par les tripotages, déchirés, recollés, chiffonnés, tirebouchonnés, immondes. Je ne me suis jamais tant lavé les mains de façon obsessionnelle.
Les prix de tout ont flambé et il ne faut pas se fier au LP dépassé complètement, ni à certains posts qu'on dirait convenus. Pour les étrangers, c'est sans vergogne que les prix d'entrée sont affichés 10 fois plus chers, une forme de ségrégation en quelque sorte. Le summum est atteint par le clergé qui au 6 Janvier où je suis arrivée à Lalibella a porté l'entrée des églises de 350 birs - ce qui était déjà bien cher - à 50 dollars... Le tort qu'ils portent à l'économie du tourisme local, ils s'en fichent, puisqu'il y a toujours des toutous pour payer... Je crois que quand la nouvelle aura circulé, bon nombre de voyageur à budget moyen ne s'y rendront plus et bien des voyageurs ont dû faire demie-route. Pour ma part, avec cette somme, j'ai pris un billet d'avion pour Addis, ce qui m'a permis ensuite de faire un tour dans le sud...
Dépenses en Inde du Nord en mars 2012 English translation pending
Un peu tardif, mais voici quelques ratios de dépenses sur la base d'un voyage en solo de 3 semaines effectué en mars 2012, essentiellement en Uttar Pradesh et en Madya Pradesh.
Hébergement : 381 roupies / nuitée, généralement dans de modestes guesthouses propres et bien situées. Mais aussi quelques hôtels avec climatisation. Chambre double ou simple selon possibilité, pas de dortoirs.
Alimentation : 149 roupies / j, essentiellement repas dans de petites gargotes complétés par des achats de fruits et yaourts. Mais aussi quelques restaurants non touristiques. Inclus 3-4 litres / j d'eau minérale, de préférence les marques locales plutôt que les marques nationales (15 roupies / l), ce qui permet d'obtenir un prix de 10-12 roupies / l, voire parfois moins.
Visites : 114 roupies / j. Tous les sites d'intérêt dans les lieux où je suis passé. Sans la moindre restriction hormis le temps dans une journée.
Transports : 104 roupies / 100 km, mais ce ratio n'est qu'indicatif car les coûts sont très hétérogènes selon le mode de transport adopté et la classe utilisée dans le cas du transport ferroviaire. Quasi exclusivement des transports collectifs, beaucoup de train, quelques rares rickshaws privatifs, aucun taxi, pas mal de marche à pied en ville.
Autres : 110 roupies / j, principalement blanchisserie et Internet (20-40 roupies / heure).
Dans l'ensemble, hors achats personnels évidemment, et compte tenu d'une distance parcourue de 220 km / j, mon rythme de dépense a été de 924 roupies / j, soit 14,3 euros / j (au change d'environ 65 roupies / j sur cette période).
A suivre l'analyse détaillée des coûts de transport selon le mode de transport utilisé.
Pour les intéressés, je tiens à votre disposition les dépenses unitaires sur chacune des étapes effectuées, essentiellement en Uttar Pradesh et Madya Pradesh, plus précisément à : New Delhi, Amritsar, New Delhi, Lucknow, Ayuthya, Gorakhpur, Kushinagar, Varanasi, Allahabad, Chitrakoot, Khajuraho, Kulpahar, Gwalior, Shivpuri, Orchha, Datia / Sonagiri, Vidisha / Sanchi, Bhopal, Bhimbekta, Omkareshwar, Maheshwar, Mandu, Ujjain, Jhalawar, Kota, Bundi, Jaipur, Alwar, Deeg, Bharatpur, Mathura, New Delhi.
Pour établir un budget, veiller à appliquer un taux d'inflation aux ratios présentés, à titre de mise à jour.
En espérant que cela puisse aider certains voyageurs...
Fabrice
Hébergement : 381 roupies / nuitée, généralement dans de modestes guesthouses propres et bien situées. Mais aussi quelques hôtels avec climatisation. Chambre double ou simple selon possibilité, pas de dortoirs.
Alimentation : 149 roupies / j, essentiellement repas dans de petites gargotes complétés par des achats de fruits et yaourts. Mais aussi quelques restaurants non touristiques. Inclus 3-4 litres / j d'eau minérale, de préférence les marques locales plutôt que les marques nationales (15 roupies / l), ce qui permet d'obtenir un prix de 10-12 roupies / l, voire parfois moins.
Visites : 114 roupies / j. Tous les sites d'intérêt dans les lieux où je suis passé. Sans la moindre restriction hormis le temps dans une journée.
Transports : 104 roupies / 100 km, mais ce ratio n'est qu'indicatif car les coûts sont très hétérogènes selon le mode de transport adopté et la classe utilisée dans le cas du transport ferroviaire. Quasi exclusivement des transports collectifs, beaucoup de train, quelques rares rickshaws privatifs, aucun taxi, pas mal de marche à pied en ville.
Autres : 110 roupies / j, principalement blanchisserie et Internet (20-40 roupies / heure).
Dans l'ensemble, hors achats personnels évidemment, et compte tenu d'une distance parcourue de 220 km / j, mon rythme de dépense a été de 924 roupies / j, soit 14,3 euros / j (au change d'environ 65 roupies / j sur cette période).
A suivre l'analyse détaillée des coûts de transport selon le mode de transport utilisé.
Pour les intéressés, je tiens à votre disposition les dépenses unitaires sur chacune des étapes effectuées, essentiellement en Uttar Pradesh et Madya Pradesh, plus précisément à : New Delhi, Amritsar, New Delhi, Lucknow, Ayuthya, Gorakhpur, Kushinagar, Varanasi, Allahabad, Chitrakoot, Khajuraho, Kulpahar, Gwalior, Shivpuri, Orchha, Datia / Sonagiri, Vidisha / Sanchi, Bhopal, Bhimbekta, Omkareshwar, Maheshwar, Mandu, Ujjain, Jhalawar, Kota, Bundi, Jaipur, Alwar, Deeg, Bharatpur, Mathura, New Delhi.
Pour établir un budget, veiller à appliquer un taux d'inflation aux ratios présentés, à titre de mise à jour.
En espérant que cela puisse aider certains voyageurs...
Fabrice
Circuit de quinze jours en Arizona et Nouveau-Mexique English translation pending
Bonjour à tous ! 🙂
J'avais posté un sujet il y a quelques semaines suite à mon projet de circuit en Californie fin octobre, et je vais finalement suivre les conseils de Pong quand à la visite d'endroits à température plus clémente en automne !
Nous nous sommes donc arrêtés sur une boucle Las Vegas - arizona - nouveau mexique - las vegas fin octobre
Je voulais avoir votre avis quand au circuit que nous avons prévu :
J1 Las vegas - Sedona J2 Meteor crater, Montezuma Castle et nuit sur Scottsdale J3 Tucson J4 Saguaro Np J5 Tombstone + Chiricahua NM avec Nuit à Bisbee J6 Las Cruces J7 Carslbad Caverns + White sands NM avec nuit à Alamogordo J8 Alburquerque J9 Petrified forest + alentours J10 Canyon de Chelly J11 Monument Valley + Lake Powell J12 Page + Horseshoebend J13 Grand Canyon J14 + 15 Las Vegas
Je voulais avoir vos avis quand à la durée consacrée à chaque étape ? avons nous le temps de profiter en 15 jours ?
Merci a tous pour vos précieux conseils 😛
Alexia
J'avais posté un sujet il y a quelques semaines suite à mon projet de circuit en Californie fin octobre, et je vais finalement suivre les conseils de Pong quand à la visite d'endroits à température plus clémente en automne !
Nous nous sommes donc arrêtés sur une boucle Las Vegas - arizona - nouveau mexique - las vegas fin octobre
Je voulais avoir votre avis quand au circuit que nous avons prévu :
J1 Las vegas - Sedona J2 Meteor crater, Montezuma Castle et nuit sur Scottsdale J3 Tucson J4 Saguaro Np J5 Tombstone + Chiricahua NM avec Nuit à Bisbee J6 Las Cruces J7 Carslbad Caverns + White sands NM avec nuit à Alamogordo J8 Alburquerque J9 Petrified forest + alentours J10 Canyon de Chelly J11 Monument Valley + Lake Powell J12 Page + Horseshoebend J13 Grand Canyon J14 + 15 Las Vegas
Je voulais avoir vos avis quand à la durée consacrée à chaque étape ? avons nous le temps de profiter en 15 jours ?
Merci a tous pour vos précieux conseils 😛
Alexia
Faire Paris - Auxerre à vélo de course en une journée English translation pending
Bonjour à tous !
Je suis tout nouveau ici et je me suis inscrit car j'ai lu de très bon conseille sur ce site !
Je vous explique donc à mon tour mon problème.
Je voulais faire Paris Auxerre en vélo en 1 journée. Au niveau de la capacité à pédalé, j'ai ce qu'il faut.
Mais je voudrais faire ce trajet en vélo de course, ce qui m'empêche de longer la seine après Montereau (il n'y a qu'un chemin de Hallage défoncé). J'ai aussi horreur des nationales, je me suis déjà fauché par un camion et vu mon très faible poids (55kg) je vole assez haut et loin 😄🏴☠️
Je voulais donc savoir si vous connaissiez un itinéraire, si vous aviez un .gpx ou un .kml/kmz ou encore mieux, si vous connaissiez un site qui permet de calculer des itinéraires en évitant les nat. !
Merci d'avance pour toutes vos réponses, et je suis heureux d'avoir rejoint votre grande et belle communauté !
@+
Itinéraire à vélo sans dénivelé du côté du Vaucluse? English translation pending
bonjour à tous ,
je cherche pour cet été du coté du vaucluse des itinéraires sans dénivelé :bon , c'est impossible , je sais , alors avec un très faible dénivelé : est ce possible du coté d'Isle sur Sorgue et environs ? peut on trouver des "boucles "en zone plate ? seconde question : nous avons des vélos course , avec des pneus relativement fins , peut on faire les canaux comme ceux de Bourgogne ou du Nivernais ou faut il s 'équiper de VTC ? merci d' avance !
je cherche pour cet été du coté du vaucluse des itinéraires sans dénivelé :bon , c'est impossible , je sais , alors avec un très faible dénivelé : est ce possible du coté d'Isle sur Sorgue et environs ? peut on trouver des "boucles "en zone plate ? seconde question : nous avons des vélos course , avec des pneus relativement fins , peut on faire les canaux comme ceux de Bourgogne ou du Nivernais ou faut il s 'équiper de VTC ? merci d' avance !
Circuit de vingt-trois jours au Canada (Est) English translation pending
Bonjour,
nouvelle destination en vue donc nouvel appel au voyageurs avisés du forum: départ autour du 8 sept; retour début oct
France- Toronto Toronto ( 2 nuits) Niagara Falls Syracuse Boston (2 ou 3 nuits) Portland Bar Harbor (1 ou 2 nuits) Quebec (2 nuits) Lac St Jean Tadoussac Matane Ste Anne Gaspé ou Percé Baie des Chaleurs Rivière du Loup Trois Rivières Montreal ( 2 ou 3 nuits) Montréal. France
Merci de vos suggestions. séjour en couple avec réservation de voiture et probablement des nuitées jusqu'à Boston puis on verra sur place ensuite car à partir de fin sept ça devrait pas se bousculer en Gaspésie.
nouvelle destination en vue donc nouvel appel au voyageurs avisés du forum: départ autour du 8 sept; retour début oct
France- Toronto Toronto ( 2 nuits) Niagara Falls Syracuse Boston (2 ou 3 nuits) Portland Bar Harbor (1 ou 2 nuits) Quebec (2 nuits) Lac St Jean Tadoussac Matane Ste Anne Gaspé ou Percé Baie des Chaleurs Rivière du Loup Trois Rivières Montreal ( 2 ou 3 nuits) Montréal. France
Merci de vos suggestions. séjour en couple avec réservation de voiture et probablement des nuitées jusqu'à Boston puis on verra sur place ensuite car à partir de fin sept ça devrait pas se bousculer en Gaspésie.
Formalités pour faire entrer un Dominicain au Canada? English translation pending
Bonjour,
Je suis une quebecoise de 33 ans qui vis en Republique Dominicaine depuis 1 an. J'ai rencontre la perle rare des dominicains 😉 On est ensemble depuis presque 5 mois, et on vit egalement ensemble. Les choses vont tres bien. Mais je vais probablement devoir revenir au Quebec pour le travail quelques temps. Je voudrais donc savoir c'est quoi les procedures pour faire entrer un dominicain au Canada. Je sais que ce n'est pas facile. J'ai besoin de conseils...a savoir ou commencer. J'aimerais bien reussir a le faire venir pour le mois d'aout avec un VISA visiteur. Alors j'attends vos conseils...et si vous avez de bons contacts ici en Republique ou au Quebec qui pourraient m'aider....ca serait geniale!!!!! Car je trouverais bien dommage de rompre une superbe relation a cause du facteur distance.... Aidez-moi.... je vous remercie milles fois!!
Annie =)
Je suis une quebecoise de 33 ans qui vis en Republique Dominicaine depuis 1 an. J'ai rencontre la perle rare des dominicains 😉 On est ensemble depuis presque 5 mois, et on vit egalement ensemble. Les choses vont tres bien. Mais je vais probablement devoir revenir au Quebec pour le travail quelques temps. Je voudrais donc savoir c'est quoi les procedures pour faire entrer un dominicain au Canada. Je sais que ce n'est pas facile. J'ai besoin de conseils...a savoir ou commencer. J'aimerais bien reussir a le faire venir pour le mois d'aout avec un VISA visiteur. Alors j'attends vos conseils...et si vous avez de bons contacts ici en Republique ou au Quebec qui pourraient m'aider....ca serait geniale!!!!! Car je trouverais bien dommage de rompre une superbe relation a cause du facteur distance.... Aidez-moi.... je vous remercie milles fois!!
Annie =)
Boucle Los Angeles/Yellowstone/San Francisco/Los Angeles English translation pending
Bonjour 🙂
En plein début de préparation pour un voyage aux USA, et ne connaissant pas du tout ce pays, je m'interroge ...
Une boucle partant de Los Angeles passant par les classiques ( Las Vegas, Death Valley, Monument Valley ...) jusqu'à Yellowstone, puis San Francisco et retour Los Angeles, périple sur trois semaines, c'est beaucoup ? Faut il revoir à la baisse ?
Merci d'avance 🙂
En plein début de préparation pour un voyage aux USA, et ne connaissant pas du tout ce pays, je m'interroge ...
Une boucle partant de Los Angeles passant par les classiques ( Las Vegas, Death Valley, Monument Valley ...) jusqu'à Yellowstone, puis San Francisco et retour Los Angeles, périple sur trois semaines, c'est beaucoup ? Faut il revoir à la baisse ?
Merci d'avance 🙂
Aller à Zanzibar English translation pending
bonjour je vais faire le kili et qq jours de safari en juillet. je vais en profiter pour aller passer 3 jours a zanzibar. j'ai qq questions:
1)avec quelle compagnie faire arusha/zanzibar et peut on reserver par internet?
2)ou aller a zanzibar? peut on reserver un hotel par internet?
merci de votre aide
Tiery
merci de votre aide
Tiery
New Delhi - Bombay en stop, vingt-quatre jours English translation pending
Bonjour a tous !
Voilà, l'envie de voyager m'a pris récément, et j'ai pu trouver un billet Genève - New Dehli / Bombay - Genève pour 650 CHF, je vais donc me lancer dans l’aventure en auto stop avec quelques amis. Nous aurons exactement 24 jours ( arrivée 05.04 départ 29.04 ).
Etant donné que nous ne sommes jamais partis pour un tel voyage ( on a autour des 18 ans ), on a du mal a s'imaginer les distances, et ce serais bête de louper l'avion à Bombay :p On aurais donc aimé avoir votre avis sur un parcours de ce type : http://g.co/maps/g5e3p, si la distance est réalisable en faisant uniquement du stop, ou si c'est beaucoup trop long ? J'ai encore plein de question a poser et de choses à planifier, mais avant de me lancer là dedans j'aimerai être sur de mon coup :)
Merci d'avance a ton ceux qui pourront nous donner un petit coup de pouce !
Sheppard59
Voilà, l'envie de voyager m'a pris récément, et j'ai pu trouver un billet Genève - New Dehli / Bombay - Genève pour 650 CHF, je vais donc me lancer dans l’aventure en auto stop avec quelques amis. Nous aurons exactement 24 jours ( arrivée 05.04 départ 29.04 ).
Etant donné que nous ne sommes jamais partis pour un tel voyage ( on a autour des 18 ans ), on a du mal a s'imaginer les distances, et ce serais bête de louper l'avion à Bombay :p On aurais donc aimé avoir votre avis sur un parcours de ce type : http://g.co/maps/g5e3p, si la distance est réalisable en faisant uniquement du stop, ou si c'est beaucoup trop long ? J'ai encore plein de question a poser et de choses à planifier, mais avant de me lancer là dedans j'aimerai être sur de mon coup :)
Merci d'avance a ton ceux qui pourront nous donner un petit coup de pouce !
Sheppard59
Choix de pneumatique English translation pending
Bonjour à tous
je vais devoir changer mes pneus , actuellement il est equipé de pneus BRIGESTONE MIXTE 275/70R16 mixte je vais mettre sans doute des BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAIN T/A Dois je garder la meme dimension ou passer sur le modele 285/75/16 ou rester avec le modele existant mixte QUEL EST LA MEILLEUR dimension (sans changer les jantes d'origine) (TOYOTA HDJ 100)
merci pour vos reponse
jpl
je vais devoir changer mes pneus , actuellement il est equipé de pneus BRIGESTONE MIXTE 275/70R16 mixte je vais mettre sans doute des BF GOODRICH ALL TERRAIN T/A Dois je garder la meme dimension ou passer sur le modele 285/75/16 ou rester avec le modele existant mixte QUEL EST LA MEILLEUR dimension (sans changer les jantes d'origine) (TOYOTA HDJ 100)
merci pour vos reponse
jpl
Circuit de vingt-trois jours environ dans l'Ouest américain avec enfants English translation pending
Bonjour,
j'essaie de préparer un itinéaire dans l'ouest avec trois enfants incluant (si le temps le permet) le tronçon San Francisco - Los Angeles. Nous voudrions prendre le temps de visiter le pays Navajo, mais je ne sais pas dans quel ordre inclure la visite. Voici une première ébauche
J1 : Arrivée à SF J2 : SF J3 : SF J4 : Arrêt entre SF et LA J5 : LA J6 : LA J7 : Flagstaff/Sedona via Kingman et la route 66 J8 : Visite des alentours de Sedona J9 : Gallup/Albuquerque (le coin vaut-il le détour ?) J10 : Santa Fe/Taos J11 : Mesa Verde (arrivée) J12 : visite de Mesa Verde et départ pour Monument Valley J13 : Canyon de Chelly J14 : Traversée de la réserve Hopi pour rejoindre Tuba City/Cameron (nuit à Tuba City ou Cameron) J 15 : Grand Canyon (visite dans la journée) et retour à Tuba City J 16 : Remontée à Monument Valley J 17 : Parc le plus proche pour rejoindre Las Vegas ? (nuit à Las Vegas) J 18 : Las Vegas J 19 : Vallée de la mort J 20 et 21 : rejoindre SF mais par où ?
L'itinéraire me semble très serré. Je ne pense pas qu'il soit possible d'intégrer Sequoi national park ou Yosemite vu les distances. Aussi, on passe outre Moab.
d'après vos expériences, vaut-il mieux supprimer les visites de Santa Fe/Mesa Verde et se concentrer sur les canyons, ou intégrer Yosemite ? Eventuellement aussi, couper la descente SF/LA et faire une boucle au départ de Los Angeles ? Nous devons prendre nos billets d'avion d'ici 7 jours, merci de vos retours.
Un 4/4 est-il nécessaire ou une voiture suffit-elle pour cette boucle. J'avais fait un parcours similaire il y a fort longtemps avec une simple voiture, mais cela exclut les pistes.
Merci.
j'essaie de préparer un itinéaire dans l'ouest avec trois enfants incluant (si le temps le permet) le tronçon San Francisco - Los Angeles. Nous voudrions prendre le temps de visiter le pays Navajo, mais je ne sais pas dans quel ordre inclure la visite. Voici une première ébauche
J1 : Arrivée à SF J2 : SF J3 : SF J4 : Arrêt entre SF et LA J5 : LA J6 : LA J7 : Flagstaff/Sedona via Kingman et la route 66 J8 : Visite des alentours de Sedona J9 : Gallup/Albuquerque (le coin vaut-il le détour ?) J10 : Santa Fe/Taos J11 : Mesa Verde (arrivée) J12 : visite de Mesa Verde et départ pour Monument Valley J13 : Canyon de Chelly J14 : Traversée de la réserve Hopi pour rejoindre Tuba City/Cameron (nuit à Tuba City ou Cameron) J 15 : Grand Canyon (visite dans la journée) et retour à Tuba City J 16 : Remontée à Monument Valley J 17 : Parc le plus proche pour rejoindre Las Vegas ? (nuit à Las Vegas) J 18 : Las Vegas J 19 : Vallée de la mort J 20 et 21 : rejoindre SF mais par où ?
L'itinéraire me semble très serré. Je ne pense pas qu'il soit possible d'intégrer Sequoi national park ou Yosemite vu les distances. Aussi, on passe outre Moab.
d'après vos expériences, vaut-il mieux supprimer les visites de Santa Fe/Mesa Verde et se concentrer sur les canyons, ou intégrer Yosemite ? Eventuellement aussi, couper la descente SF/LA et faire une boucle au départ de Los Angeles ? Nous devons prendre nos billets d'avion d'ici 7 jours, merci de vos retours.
Un 4/4 est-il nécessaire ou une voiture suffit-elle pour cette boucle. J'avais fait un parcours similaire il y a fort longtemps avec une simple voiture, mais cela exclut les pistes.
Merci.
Cycling Through Provence's Big Climbs
Cycling Through Provence's Big Climbs
In the autumn of 2011, Provence was hit by apocalyptic weather—torrential rain and a particularly violent east wind, reaching 130 kilometers per hour, whipping up waves as high as seven meters. It wasn’t the best time to venture outside. Yet, I told myself that after the storm, calm would return. I kept an eye on the weather forecast and noticed that starting November 10th, a favorable window should open for a little 600-kilometer cycling trip across Provence. The weather reports promised a high-pressure system that would keep the bad weather at bay over these highlands. That was all I needed to decide to set off. The planned route would take me through Provence’s biggest climbs: Mont Ventoux, Montagne de Lure, the Verdon Gorge, the Massif des Maures, and Sainte-Baume.
And so, despite my doubts, the call of adventure was stronger. The train pulled away, and once again, a journey began at Part-Dieu station. This time, I headed toward Haute-Provence for a cycling adventure. It would be my first solo bike trip. I was a little nervous—cycling with panniers makes you feel vulnerable to theft. I’d already been robbed while traveling in a group in Peru, and that experience left me deeply shaken. Alone, I hesitated. But no need to panic—I’d read accounts from long-distance cyclists who hadn’t been robbed, even if it does happen sometimes. I was particularly thinking of a young schoolteacher who had taken a sabbatical to cycle around the world. Her students had remarked, "Teacher, you’re not sporty—how will you manage to cycle around the world?" This young woman was full of resourcefulness. In South America, before flying to China, she locked her bike to a post to take care of a natural need. When she returned, the post had been torn out, and her bike—along with all her gear—was gone. It was a shock for many, but not for her. She boarded her flight to the Middle Kingdom, bought the essentials (including a new bike) once there, and continued her journey! Remembering this story, I almost felt ashamed of my cowardice. These were the thoughts running through my mind as the Rhône Valley rolled by toward Orange, the starting point of my Provençal adventure through the big climbs.
Day One: Orange to Sault via Mont Ventoux – 90 km
9:30 AM, I stepped off the train. With all my gear, I had to navigate the underground passage—no easy feat, given that my bike and luggage weighed 35 kilos. At this time of year, I expected some areas to be deserted, so I’d packed enough to bivouac comfortably. Once outside the station, the southern light flooded over me. I understood why people dream of retiring in these sun-drenched regions. As always, after disembarking from public transport, I had to get my bearings and decide which way to go. The sun, still low on the horizon, pointed east. The roar of fighter jet engines helped me locate the Air Base 115. That was all I needed to "reset the gyros."
As soon as I started pedaling, all my apprehensions vanished. The joy of discovery and physical effort took over, and euphoria washed over me. It’s amazing how emotions can shift from one moment to the next based on seemingly minor circumstances.
The weather was splendid—the forecast had predicted continuous showers, but it was completely wrong. I quickly left the city behind. Mont Ventoux loomed mysteriously, its dimensions hard to gauge. It was even more enigmatic with its summit hidden beneath swirling, mottled clouds clinging to the ridges. It reminded me of a great South American volcano. I struggled to imagine that in a few hours, I’d be up there under that blanket of mist.
The countryside was shaking off its autumnal nighttime dampness. The vineyards, interspersed with tall cypress hedges, confirmed I was in the magnificent Côtes du Rhône wine region. The distinctive Dentelles de Montmirail were very much in evidence. The air force base wasn’t far. I passed the runway’s end markers. A Mirage 2000 flew overhead in a tight turn, followed by another roaring into takeoff. It came straight at me before climbing sharply with a thunderous roar. Thirty years spent in that captivating world came rushing back. I recalled countless extraordinary human and technical experiences from my time in the service. But the purpose of this post isn’t to promote the air force—though I might post some articles one day about travels among men at war.
I continued on my way, leaving my past loves behind. As I pedaled, delightful names rolled by: Violès, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise—the crème de la crème of the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. I let myself be enchanted by the vineyards and the little paths crisscrossing them. I started to doubt my route, though the imposing mass of Mont Ventoux in the distance acted like a giant beacon. At a crossroads, a car appeared. I approached to ask the driver for directions, but she didn’t even look at me and sped off, clearly frightened. I’d almost forgotten what a fearful world we live in, no doubt traumatized by all the horrors we see in the news and on TV.
The kilometers started adding up, but was my day’s goal too ambitious? It had been two months since I’d last ridden my bike. True, my last trip had been good training—the Route des Grandes Alpes—but that was two months ago. I can’t just take my bike out for a day trip; I need that sense of adventure to find the courage to exercise.
Two cyclists overtook me. Intrigued by my load, they struck up a conversation. They were skeptical when I told them I planned to cross Mont Ventoux that day. One of them pointed out a small chapel near the summit where I could bivouac sheltered. That motivated me even more to reach the top on this first stage. The chapel also had a mythical name for me—Sainte-Anne, the name of my parents’ villa. It was already noon, and I’d covered 50 kilometers. Malaucène appeared—the sacred village of Ventoux’s mad cyclists. Surprisingly, I didn’t see any other cyclists today. I remembered this place in June, teeming with aspirants for the king of summits. Before tackling the climb ahead, I needed to refuel. I enjoyed a pleasant gastronomic break at Max’s. At 1 PM, I started the most famous climb in cycling—21 kilometers, which would actually be 23. I knew it would be tough, especially with two handicaps: 50 kilometers already in my legs and 20 kilos of luggage. But I was counting on my tiny chainring, which let me climb trees to tackle the steep ramps.
I set off at a brisk pace along a deserted road. My speed held up for the first few kilometers. I quickly rose above the valley, the horizon widening. I was surprised to see no one on this world-renowned route among cycling enthusiasts. During the climb and descent, I’d only see five cyclists—but I’ll come back to that. I passed a sign explaining that the effort would be roughly equivalent to climbing the Col de la Bonnette. Having done the latter in September, I figured I’d be fine. I crossed paths with my first cyclist—a woman speeding downhill. After 12 kilometers, I hit slopes averaging 12%. I don’t know if the number 12 is cursed, but I got such a "bamboo" hit that I’d never experienced before. I thought I wouldn’t make it to the summit today. I stopped. My thighs burned so much I could barely walk—lactic acid overload. I looked for a relatively flat spot to pitch my tent. It was 3:30 PM, with two hours of daylight left. But I found nothing.
I got back on my bike, intending to stop as soon as I found a good bivouac spot. But nothing came up. However, my strength slowly returned, perhaps because the slope eased, though it remained around 10%. I entered the summit mists. A cyclist overtook me. I was in the zone where I had to pass the summit. Dusk caught me in the final difficulties. The atmosphere was downright austere. In the twilight, a kilometer from the summit, a cyclist was fixing his bike. I asked if he needed help. He made it clear he didn’t understand. So I asked, "Do you need some help?" His answer was clear: "No, thank you." He showed me his new inner tube. Inside, I thought, "Phew!" If I’d had to stop, sweating in the falling night with the cold intensifying, I’d have struggled to get going again. But he managed, and I continued into the twilight fog. I could barely make out the summit’s large antennas in the clouds, like immense ghosts trying to evade sight. The bike delivered sensations worthy of mountain racing. My goal was to quickly find the famous chapel in the descent to take shelter. As I glided down the southern slope, two cyclists without lights crossed my path in the night—probably heading to the station above, its lights visible in the fog.
I scanned the roadside in the dark for the chapel but saw nothing. After a kilometer or two, I lost all hope. I stopped to put on more clothes as the cold became intense. I had no idea where I could stop on these steep slopes to set up camp. Between the swirls of mist, I could intermittently see the Rhône Valley below, dotted with illuminated towns and villages. The sight was striking. What was I doing on this mountain at night? Then the miracle happened—the clouds parted, and from the ridge above me to the east, a beautiful full moon emerged, casting enough light to consider a nighttime descent to Sault, 26 kilometers away.
In this eerie atmosphere between the moon’s pale rays and patches of fog, I began my descent through a hazy, almost unreal world. The Ventoux’s characteristic white scree reflected the moonlight faintly, dimmed by the mist. In places, entire mountainsides were plunged into complete darkness, and I lost all sense of the road’s path. Then, around a tight bend caused by a land shift, the light returned. It seemed extreme compared to the darkness I’d left behind. I could once again clearly see the road’s contours, though not its potholes or gravel patches. Still, I let the slope carry me, and the speed felt significant, though the low light prevented me from reading my speedometer. In these moments, concentration was at its peak—all senses alert, reflexes ready to react to the slightest incident that could lead to a fall.
I was relieved to see Sault’s lights growing closer. In less than an hour, I reached it, considering the final little climb that required one last push. This village, bustling in summer, was deserted at this time of year—almost dead. The first hotel I came across was closed. A quick shadow passed in a small sloping street. Before it disappeared into the darkness at a house corner, I chased after it and asked about accommodation options. Very kindly, I was directed to what was probably the only hotel open in November. I quickly found it, and the reception was open. I entered wearing my black balaclava, bought in the Ayacucho region—the birthplace of Peru’s Shining Path. At this late hour, I saw questioning glances directed at me. I prefaced, "This isn’t a hold-up." Clearly, the owners had a sense of humor—they started smiling. I took off my balaclava and asked for a room. No problem, and from that moment, the pressure eased. I really didn’t feel like going back out to find a spot to pitch my tent in the biting cold.
The stage had been nearly 100 kilometers, and it was the first. It had been two months since I’d touched my bike, and I probably lacked even minimal training, even though my last bike trip had been crossing the French Alps. I really had to dig deep to overcome my weakness on Ventoux’s steep section. I don’t remember ever having to search so deeply for the energy to keep going. I knew the stage I’d set for tomorrow was significant, with the climb up Montagne de Lure’s northern slope—Ventoux’s little sister, whose ascent is reputed to be endless, over 25 kilometers. I hoped this first day wouldn’t leave me too sore to avoid suffering excessively tomorrow.
For now, relaxation—a hot shower did me a world of good, followed by a good meal. I ate a delicious andouillette from Troyes, very fine, with a particularly successful herb seasoning. I loved it, and yet I’m from Lyon and pride myself on knowing a thing or two about andouillette—not just a sausage but a whole category! A bit chauvinistic, I had to admit, though reluctantly, that I found it better than the ones I usually eat in the Lyon region!
Day Two: Sault to Forcalquier via Montagne de Lure – 116 km
This morning, the weather was magnificent—the air clear, still, very fresh, and invigorating, as only the late season can offer on these Provençal highlands. In summer, they’re known for their scorching heat and drought, but often overlooked is how harsh they can be with cold and storms. Authors like Giono or Bosco described them and their inhabitants wonderfully in books like "Les Âmes Fortes."
The miracle of the night had worked. I wasn’t sore anywhere and felt in great shape. I set off well-equipped, but the effort and sun soon made me sweat. It was time to shed some layers—hat and gloves. A gentle warmth replaced the cold, making for excellent cycling conditions. On the road to Trinit, there was no traffic—only the occasional hunters’ cars parked in the distance. These vehicles were recognizable by their large cages, used to transport hunting dogs. Sometimes, the silence was broken by a distant gunshot. The deciduous forests were losing their foliage, taking on that dull brown hue of late autumn, though here and there, a tree or shrub still resisted, displaying vivid yellow or red. The meadows, their grass already scorched by the cold, were damp from the night’s heavy humidity. The low sun highlighted thousands of spider webs that had trapped insects during the warm season.
Behind me, Mont Ventoux dominated these vast spaces. As often, its imposing, stony summit was crowned with a blanket of clouds. What an impressive mountain—it’s always so hard to gauge its dimensions. I struggled to realize that last night I’d been at the summit and descended its immense southern ridge in the dark. I hoped to return one day in favorable conditions—daylight and no clouds—to enjoy the vast panorama from this unique summit.
Leaving the very Provençal village of Trinit, I tackled my first climb of the day—the Col de l’Homme Mort. The road rose moderately for five kilometers in gentle warmth. The view over the region widened, and I felt the sheer joy of pedaling. At a good pace, I overcame this first little challenge. Once at the pass, I couldn’t resist the ritual of photographing my bike in front of the sign, giving the name and altitude—1,213 meters.
The northern slope was austere and still in shadow. The cold bit again. The road was wet and covered with leaves in places. It wasn’t impossible that some treacherous patches of black ice lurked around a bend. I descended toward the Jabron Valley with caution. Suddenly, around a bend in a forest clearing, the freshly snow-covered Alps, gleaming in the sun, leapt into view, blocking the horizon. I thought I recognized the distinctive silhouette of the Écrins’ south face above a multitude of jagged peaks.
This snow and these mountains awakened a flood of memories of great joys, but I also thought of the guide and his client who had just lost their lives on the Grandes Jorasses’ north face, at the top of a route called the Linceul. The name comes from the face’s appearance—a great ice slope bordering the Grandes Jorasses’ north wall. It was first climbed by René Desmaison in 1968. He passed away a few years ago and, in his final wishes, asked that his ashes be scattered in the Dévoluy Massif at the foot of Pic de Bure, not far from here in these immense pre-Alpine folds.
At my feet, the Jabron Valley stretched almost endlessly east toward Sisteron. In the distance, the dark mass of Montagne de Lure’s north face loomed. This mountain shares similarities with Mont Ventoux. It has the same summit scree of bright limestone, the same forests climbing up to the final rocky stretch, and that blanket of clouds adding a secretive, austere touch to the scene.
I turned left past the town of Séderon and headed toward the little Col de la Pigière, which in a few kilometers allowed me to truly plunge into the beautiful Jabron Valley. I passed through several villages with charming local names—Saint-Vincent, Noyer-sur-Jabron. The river offered lovely views of its narrow gorges with clear, cold water. Autumn seemed less advanced here than on the plateau I’d just left. Many trees still wore brilliant colors, some revealing extraordinary hues—mixes of crimson, pink, and bright red.
Arriving in Noyer-sur-Jabron, I took a tiny road on the river’s right bank, leading in a few kilometers to the foot of Montagne de Lure. In the village of Valbelle, I picnicked on leftovers I’d brought from home—an old cheese and a somewhat stale loaf of bread. It was 1:30 PM. I began the long climb of about 25 kilometers. According to a friend who’s a cycling expert in the region, this section is tough. No wonder it’s called Ventoux’s little sister—the Mont Blanc of cyclists. The elevation gain on this side is still 1,200 meters, while Ventoux via Malaucène is nearly 1,600 meters.
I hoped to reach the summit before nightfall and avoid reliving a nighttime descent. The route wound through a vast forest, following the terrain’s folds. There was activity—mushroom hunters were busy searching for the coveted chanterelle. The climb, though never very steep (only one kilometer at 9%), was interminable. Though traffic was practically nonexistent, I was overtaken by a group of Harley bikers—I counted about forty. Perched high on their machines, hands in the air on wildly shaped handlebars, some with their feet nearly in the sky due to the high footpegs, they didn’t even glance my way. What’s this idiot doing, unable to ride a motorcycle and forced to climb these mountains on a bike with big bags! I wasn’t offended—real Harley purists often see other motorcyclists as renegades, so bikes are even lower on the totem pole! But I didn’t want to start a debate about motorcycles. In my youth, when I was a wild motorcyclist (22 accidents on two wheels), clans were divided into Japanese, German, Italian, and British bike owners. The latter, on their vibrating, oil-leaking machines, considered themselves the purest. But let’s not fight—there’s a statute of limitations, and it’s been nearly forty years.
As yesterday, a few kilometers below the summit, I entered the fog, and the light dropped suddenly. What a hostile mountain in these conditions! It heightened the sense of living an incredible experience. The conditions we encounter play a major role in how the adventure imprints on our memory. I realized once again that in France, you can feel like you’re very far away. Finally, after this very long climb, the Pas de Graille sign suddenly appeared out of the grayness. Strange! Below the sign, a kilometer marker indicated this same pass was over three kilometers away. Clearly, the climb continued. In these final kilometers through the scree, I gained another 130 meters of elevation. Finally, the road’s high point was reached—1,720 meters. It was cold and damp. I quickly covered up, added my balaclava under my helmet, and put on warm gloves. As I was about to start the descent, a car stopped at the summit, and one of the passengers was surprised to find a bike there in these chilly, twilight conditions.
A 20-kilometer descent led me to the village of Saint-Étienne-les-Orgues. I hoped to find a place to stay for the night. No such luck! Everything was clearly closed—no chance of finding shelter. Tonight was getting complicated. I already had exactly 100 kilometers in my legs and didn’t feel like pedaling anymore, especially at night. But I had even less desire to sleep outside. What to do to avoid it? The town of Forcalquier was 16 kilometers away—I hoped the road would descend. I set off in that direction. The first third was along a beautiful, lightly trafficked departmental road with a slight downhill—I pedaled hard. But it got tougher. I joined a busier road, and night had fallen. A several-kilometer climb finished the journey. I knew my magnetic lights weren’t very powerful—hence the danger. They were even less so on the climb because the slower I went, the less they illuminated. Cars coming the opposite way often saw me late and blinded me with their high beams. After passing, I was plunged into total darkness for a few seconds while my pupils readjusted to the night. I imagined those coming up behind me saw me with little warning, despite my slightly fluorescent jacket. When the roadside was clear, I always positioned myself to quickly jump off the road. But unfortunately, in this long final climb, a guardrail prevented any escape to the right in case of sudden braking behind me. That was even more anxiety-inducing since I was stuck at a snail’s pace. Time seemed long. I pedaled as hard as I could, on the verge of asphyxiation, trying to escape this dangerous situation as quickly as possible. My only reference point was the vehicles in front of me, letting me know the climb wasn’t over. Then suddenly, the ordeal ended—the road’s high point was reached. The town and its lights emerged from the void, and clarity returned. Phew! I glided down toward this little town bathed in light. On November 11th, I hoped to find an open hotel since I’d clearly exceeded 100 kilometers, and the idea of having to leave town to find a bivouac spot somewhat frightened me.
I arrived in the town center. Activity was low. The first hotel was closed, but I spotted a lit sign for another establishment further on. I headed there, got off my bike, and entered. The welcome was immediately friendly—a big cat came to rub against me. For me, that was a very good sign, and the first impression was confirmed. I still had to go out to eat. I covered the minimum distance. A restaurant advertised "Mom’s Cooking." I expected Provençal specialties, but they were Moroccan. I chose a delicious tagine with lime and olives, followed by almond and honey ice cream. Exhausted after this 116-kilometer stage, I returned to my room. As often after intense efforts, it was hard to fall asleep.
Day Three: Forcalquier to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie – 58 km
On this third day, due to the progress made yesterday, the stage would be short. I’d call it a transition between two mountain ranges. Indeed, the next big climb is the Verdon Gorge. I planned to position myself at its foot this evening in preparation for a tough stage tomorrow. I made a few purchases—bread, bananas, and medicine for stomach burns (the midday sausage wasn’t always kind to me). The weather was still perfect. The route began with a long descent toward the Durance. It’s always nice to start a cycling day with a downhill—it boosts morale and allows for a gentle warm-up.
I quickly reached the town of Oraison. Just at its entrance, I crossed the Durance, which still bore traces of last week’s heavy rains along its sandbanks. Indeed, numerous stumps and trunks were scattered along its vast gravel bed, along with less ecological debris like old tires.
A little south of Oraison, I took the D907, a small road heading due east between scrubland and meadows. There it was—the Provence we imagine. This stable autumn weather, with still air, neither hot nor cold, just a fresh feeling when emerging from a shaded valley or a slight warmth under the sun, was ideal for a cyclist. After about ten kilometers at the bottom of a small valley I quickly passed through, the village of Le Brunet appeared on the right. It clung to the slopes leading to the Valensole Plateau. A few steep kilometers along a tiny winding road, and suddenly a vast panorama unfolded as the climb ended.
What a magnificent plateau! Though known for its wind, luckily today was completely calm. Far to the east, the Verdon’s great cliffs blocked the horizon. This allowed me to contemplate part of tomorrow’s stage. This place is full of mysteries—many UFO and extraterrestrial encounter stories are associated with it. Moreover, for about thirty years, France hid its ground-to-ground nuclear ballistic missiles here, grouped in the 1st GMS (Ballistic Missile Group), under the air force. Naturally, these rockets fueled fantasies, and pacifist groups settled in the region to protest this type of armament. This gives many reasons to shroud this austere, deserted land in mystery.
I took a dirt path leading to the heart of this zone and stopped at the forest’s edge for lunch. The silence was total, the view stretched very far. But nothing strange or bizarre manifested. No Martian came to share my frankly moldy cheese, very peppery sausage, or bruised banana—sniff! I resumed my route, and as often when crossing places with strong character, I tended to slow down to enjoy them longer. The immense lavender fields stretched endlessly, not very fragrant at this season. I arrived at a group of truffle oaks protected by a fence, with large red signs warning "Firearm." Clearly, the war for the black diamond was raging in this region. I remembered a novel where an old farmer made buyers believe nothing grew on his land. Every year, he secretly stole the mushrooms from the unsuspecting owners. Then one day, they discovered the truth, catching this "polite" neighbor trying to hide a basket full of beautiful, large truffles!
In these vast spaces, I felt good—a sense of plenitude. It’s strange that I only conceive of cycling through wandering. I struggle to plan a day trip. And if I do, it’s highly likely I won’t get up. I need that sense of adventure to fully appreciate my physical effort. Maybe one day I should get psychoanalyzed, but at my age, it’s probably too late! Today, I had all the time in the world—the stage was half as long as yesterday’s, with very little elevation gain. Not a sound, an impressive calm, a beautiful landscape—I pedaled in a wonderful place. That’s probably happiness!
I reached the village of Puimoisson on the plateau’s eastern edge—only 12 kilometers left to Moustiers. I took my time, sat at a café terrace in the sun, and leisurely enjoyed a coffee while listening to the village come to life. I was delighted by these melodious southern voices, bursting into great laughter. There are places where, despite the anxieties caused by our debt-ridden, dysfunctional societies, some have decided to take life on the bright side and show a saving insouciance.
The rest of the journey was a simple formality—I let the slope carry me toward the pretty little town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, clinging to the cliff and famous for its faïence. Arriving early for once, I went to the tourist office to choose a comfortable hotel. Indeed, the Hôtel des Restanques was very comfortable and admirably well-located. But at this time of year, I’d have to return to the village center for dinner. The very kind receptionist reserved a table for me at La Treille Muscate, a restaurant with a magnificently arranged room on the church square. It was only 3:30 PM—I continued to take my time, showering and relaxing in front of the TV. Then I set off to explore—or rather, re-explore—this village I’d visited several times before. But I’d never climbed to its chapel perched in the middle of the great cliff towering over the houses. A stony, aerial path led there. The first mentions of the Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel, known in ancient times as Notre-Dame d’Entre-Roches, date back to the 9th century. It’s one of the rare "respite" chapels found in Provence. These are chapels where stillborn children were brought to be revived for a few moments, just long enough to baptize them. They could then be buried religiously, ensuring the salvation of their souls. I was also very moved by reading some ex-votos, like the one from "A mother for her three children returned from the war."
The place was impressive, especially as night fell. I was alone and watched the shadows fill the great cliffs above me. With an old climber’s reflex, I looked for possible climbing routes among these slabs and cracks. But climbing is probably forbidden here, too close to the houses. Then I descended to stroll through the village, admiring the magnificent, finely crafted faïence patterns found in many shops. Finally, dinnertime arrived, and I joined my restaurant, which had been highly recommended. I was delighted by the foie gras ravioli and the pieds et paquets—the chef’s specialty. I’ll come back with family.
Day Four: Moustiers to Fréjus via the Verdon – 122 km
A hearty breakfast prepared me for the day’s tough efforts. Next to me, four Chinese people chatted animatedly. Of course, I didn’t understand a word—it was a language with strange intonations and sounds. I left the dining room and prepared my bike on the terrace. Seeing the volume of my luggage, my Chinese friends rushed over and asked to take turns having their photo taken in front of this funny setup. All laughing, they took photos in front of what they probably considered a French coolie off on some trading business! When they show these photos to their relatives, they’ll likely be perplexed about what motivates some to travel by bike rather than car. For them, the car is a symbol of success—according to an article I read last year, 14,000 cars are registered in China every day!
This morning, the air was fresh. As yesterday, I started with a long descent, this time leading to the edge of Lac de Sainte-Croix. A strong, biting headwind slowed me down. It wouldn’t last, as it was generated by the gorge’s outlet, which I’d reach in a few kilometers. On this cold morning, the lake’s shores exuded great tranquility. The sun was still hidden behind the Verdon’s mountainous mass. Trees with yellow leaves stood out against the water’s pale blue. The bridge marking the gorge’s beginning at the lake’s edge was an ideal spot to admire this natural splendor. At this early hour, the play of light and shadow on the water and the immense cliffs delivered a grandiose spectacle in beautiful harmony. This first contact with the gorges, which I knew well, amazed me.
Once past the bridge, the wind calmed. A little further on, I began the long climb that would take me to the top of this immense natural gash, which water had taken millions of years to carve. I was in good shape and highly motivated by the splendors to come. First, I reached the village of Aiguines, which offered a magnificent viewpoint over the lake. Then I continued toward the Corniche Sublime, where countless breathtaking panoramas unfolded as I progressed. But the climb was sustained and long, requiring effort—though my small chainring worked miracles. I first passed the Col d’Illoire, already 500 meters above the lake. Seeing all these great cliffs, countless climbing memories came flooding back. The classic routes of the Escalès cliff, over 300 meters high, flashed by. Routes with legendary names—La Demande, Les Écureuils, Luna-Bong, and many others. The one that left me with the best memory was ULA—a crack, vertical or even overhanging, of sheer beauty rising above a 40-meter slab in one go for 280 meters of sustained, beautiful climbing on extraordinary rock. It made me want to return to climb there, to immerse myself in the atmosphere of those past times. But climbing habits have changed—now routes are accessed from above by rappel, and people don’t always bother to do these great climbs in their entirety, focusing instead on shorter but technically much more difficult enterprises.
At almost every bend, I stopped and scanned these great cliffs, searching for memories of past experiences and emotions in these secret rock folds. The road climbed well above the pass, exceeding 1,200 meters. It was cool, especially since I was sweating. Finally reaching the high point of the Corniche Sublime, I couldn’t gain speed on the descent—my gaze was always drawn to this astonishing canyon. Around a bend, two cyclists with funny small-wheeled bikes. Wow! It was a couple of Australians doing a year-long tour of France. We chatted passionately about our two-wheeled experiences for a moment. But time was passing, and if I wanted to reach Fréjus before nightfall, I’d have to pedal seriously.
I stopped at the Pont de l’Artuby, where bungee jumping was in full swing. But I quickly set off again toward Comps. The wind was against me, and it was climbing. I started to doubt whether I’d make it to the coast that evening. At 2 PM, I was in Comps-sur-Artuby. I didn’t stop, knowing that before reaching the coast, I’d have no alternative to bivouacking, and I had 70 kilometers left to cover. Sure, it should be downhill, but a few climbs were on the program. After a descent out of the village, I crossed the Artuby River again on the Canjuers military camp. A several-kilometer climb followed, fortunately not too steep. I took the D19 toward Barjols. From there, despite the late hour, I opted for a tiny road passing through Claviers, a small perched village. Time passed quickly, but the kilometers added up. I regained hope. Fifteen kilometers after this last village, I reached Saint-Paul-en-Forêt via a magnificent forested route. I had plenty of time to observe mushroom hunters. I asked one who clearly had some in a plastic bag. He gave me this hilarious answer with a magnificent southern accent: "I only picked the bad ones." No reply was possible. I moved on with a smile. A little further on, another hunter carried a basket. As soon as he saw me, he quickly hid it—just in case I saw what it contained. Arriving at the village involved a steep climb, and I was close to 100 kilometers. I still had a little over 20 kilometers to go before reaching Fréjus. The race against nightfall had begun. Over there to my right, I saw the sun setting behind Roquebrune-sur-Argens’ distinctive rock. The sea appeared. There it was—I was in Fréjus’ industrial zone. On this Sunday evening, traffic was heavy. Indeed, many had taken advantage of the return of good weather after very heavy storms to go for a walk. After quite a few detours, I arrived at the seaside just as night fell. My odometer showed 122 km for the day. I quickly found a simple hotel, ate just as quickly, and went to bed.
Day Five: Fréjus to Solliès-Pont – 92 km
Once again, the night had done its restorative work, and I prepared to cross the Massif des Maures feeling quite fresh. The weather forecast was still favorable for today, but a deterioration was expected tomorrow. I tended to trust it because the east wind was blowing, and in the region, that’s a sign of rain. For now, in the short term, this wind would be very useful—it would push me generously throughout the day.
I started calmly along the harbor quays, looking at the boats. Then I joined the road to Saint-Aygulf and followed the coast for forty kilometers to Port-Grimaud. All these seaside resorts—Saint-Aygulf, Les Issambres, Sainte-Maxime—reminded me of my youth when we spent all our vacations fishing, whether from shore, underwater, or by boat. Looking at the sea roll by, I knew what the seabeds looked like under that surface hiding them. The marine areas we knew best were now under the parking lots and commercial zones of Saint-Raphaël’s new port. In our youth, these infrastructures didn’t exist, and their construction came at the expense of coastal marine areas. Our wonderful fishing spots were permanently buried. I remember seeing the first big trucks that came to dump their loads of earth and rubble, destroying all those wonderful places—sandbanks, seaweed beds, groups of rocky holes teeming with fish that enchanted our youth. Over forty years later, I can still visualize them in my imagination under those parking lots and stores, with the names we gave them—my brothers and I: le casse-croûte, le casse-pipe, les montagnes, la digue, la grille, la mare à mulets, la petite-plage, le trou, etc.
Let’s not be overwhelmed by nostalgia. I left the coast and took the little road through the Maures to Collobrières. The route led from ridge to ridge following the terrain’s movements. At this time of year, the region was admirable. Due to the heavy storms of recent weeks, water was streaming everywhere. Waterfalls and streams murmured all along the way. I didn’t recognize the Maures, which I knew for their dryness causing apocalyptic fires. Indeed, around a bend, I came across a small rest area where a memorial had been erected for three firefighters who lost their lives here while fighting one of those gigantic fires fanned by the mistral.
This forest holds treasures—first, the cork oak, then the arbutus, chestnut trees, and of course, mushrooms that love this granitic soil:
The cork oak can be found all along the road. It’s the forest’s essential element. You can recognize it by its light bark (before exploitation), which forms large bulges along the trunk. But after exploitation, the trunks are much smoother, less voluminous, and dark in color. The arbutus is a large berry with red skin covered in small protuberances, growing on the arbutus tree. This fruit, common in Mediterranean areas, ripens in November. That means today, there were plenty around me. Its flesh is orange, with the consistency of firm purée, and it crushes softly in the mouth. The taste of this berry is sweet and excellent. I didn’t hold back—I gorged myself on them, which served as my midday meal. Sometimes I had to climb embankments to get them.
The chestnut tree, a true industry of the region, brings wealth to the surrounding villages. They make candied chestnuts, ice cream, and other products derived from chestnut flour. Be careful not to stop just anywhere to pick this fruit, as the tree owners might not agree. They even make this clear with signs and surround their chestnut trees with fences. Mushrooms—saffron milk caps and porcini—are highly prized in the area. I saw a few hunters, but it clearly wasn’t miraculous. Supposedly, there had been too much rain?
There’s no time to get bored along this little road, from which you can sometimes see the sea. I passed the Col de Taillude at over 400 meters. I began the descent to Collobrières, the chestnut capital, whose festival attracts many people. Before entering, about a hundred meters from the first houses, a cyclist—probably an agricultural worker—came toward me. As he passed, he cheerfully called out, "Go on, little guy! It’s almost there!" We both smiled. At the end of November, the village was cold and almost deserted. Dead leaves swept the wet streets of the town. You could feel winter on the way. I continued my route to Pierrefeu-du-Var, on the western edge of the Massif des Maures. So I gave my last pedal strokes in this pretty little massif so characteristic of Provence.
I looked for a hotel in Cuers but without success. I descended toward Toulon and finally found one on the outskirts of Solliès-Pont. It catered to people coming to work in the region, so nothing very bucolic. But if the weather were to deteriorate tomorrow and turn to rain, I could quickly reach Hyères or Toulon station, which was a significant advantage. Indeed, November rains aren’t usually very pleasant on a bike.
Day Six: Solliès-Pont to Cassis via Sainte-Baume – 85 km
This morning, contrary to the weather forecast, the weather was beautiful, and the latest bulletin seemed to contradict yesterday’s. So no escape to Toulon—I resumed my route toward Sainte-Baume. I left the hotel via a tiny road that, through ups and downs, led me via shortcuts to the road to Belgentier. My body had gotten used to intense daily efforts, and I felt in Olympic form. At a good pace, I launched into a long climb with a moderate slope. The road was busy, but fortunately, the side lane for cyclists often made the exercise more pleasant. The villages rolled by—Méounes, La Roquebrussanne. Near the latter, I observed a Tiger combat helicopter in training. It hovered motionless for long periods—perhaps the pilots were training to master their increasingly sophisticated weapon systems, requiring even more learning?
I left the busy road and headed via an almost deserted route toward the village of Mazaugues. The climbs became steeper. A long descent, and there I was in this pretty village. A grocery store, which besides selling a few ingredients also served as a café. I sat near the electric heater—it was cold, and I was sweaty. I watched customers come and go and listened to the shopkeeper tell me about village life. The name Mazaugues comes from "water mass," which is why drought doesn’t usually affect this area. Apparently, you can even find mushrooms here in summer! I had a good time, and as I was leaving, a local cyclist started a conversation and told me about her dreams of long bike trips, currently limited by her situation as a mother of terrible children. She settled for day trips with her club, which was already good in this very hilly region. I told her the story of a man who, at 73, cycled solo around Morocco. So no panic—she still had thirty or forty years to realize her wildest dreams!
I was warned that it would be a tough climb to reach Sainte-Baume’s northern slope. Indeed, over eight kilometers, the average slope was sustained, but the landscape was wonderful. Here too, water was streaming everywhere. I passed one of those famous icehouses that used to supply Marseille with ice throughout the year. This northern slope of Sainte-Baume is very cold, and this characteristic was exploited in previous centuries to produce ice. Large cylindrical structures, well-protected to the north and semi-buried, received large quantities of water in late autumn, which froze during winter and was kept cool for months until the following winter. Ice blocks were cut and delivered by cart to the city. That’s how, in ancient times, ice was available in summer to keep fish fresh in Marseille. Did pastis exist at that time? If not, the ice cubes must have been bored!
Once the climb was over, the long ridge of Sainte-Baume appeared, and I could see its characteristic antennas. Nestled at the foot of the cliffs, the magnificent millennial forest revealed itself with its autumn colors. I stopped at the monastery. I’d been there several times before and had even slept there during a long walking trip. The welcome had been first-rate by the Dominicans, especially the sisters in their long immaculate robes. They radiated a serenity that was very contagious. Don’t hesitate to stop there for the night. I struggled to get back on my way—some places have a special spirit.
I was soon at the end of my journey. I continued along this magnificent mountain to the Col de l’Espigoulier. To the north, another immense wave of white limestone rose—Montagne Sainte-Victoire, a high place in Provence that painter Cézanne made world-famous. Once at the pass, the entire city of Marseille spread out at my feet, the Mediterranean coast revealed itself from the Calanques to La Ciotat, passing by the famous Cap Canaille, Europe’s highest sea cliff. Above me, bathed in sunlight, Bartagne’s northwest face, very popular among climbers, showed all its reliefs. With an old climber’s reflex, I spotted the many climbs I’d done there. I let myself be carried into a steep, winding descent toward the village of Gémenos in a beautiful setting full of cliffs.
A few more kilometers of climbing toward the Col de l’Ange, then toward Roquefort-la-Bédoule. In this last climb, I raced with two cyclists, admittedly not very young. Then, in a six-kilometer descent, I reached Cassis station, the endpoint of my six-day journey through this wild Provençal land between sea and mountain. I experienced great pleasure during these 570 kilometers through these renowned yet wild French massifs. As always, when a beautiful project comes to an end, you feel a bit orphaned by a beautiful dream come true. You have to quickly envision the next one to avoid a vague sense of emptiness taking over. My next adventure is already taking shape in my mind, but that’s another story.
In the autumn of 2011, Provence was hit by apocalyptic weather—torrential rain and a particularly violent east wind, reaching 130 kilometers per hour, whipping up waves as high as seven meters. It wasn’t the best time to venture outside. Yet, I told myself that after the storm, calm would return. I kept an eye on the weather forecast and noticed that starting November 10th, a favorable window should open for a little 600-kilometer cycling trip across Provence. The weather reports promised a high-pressure system that would keep the bad weather at bay over these highlands. That was all I needed to decide to set off. The planned route would take me through Provence’s biggest climbs: Mont Ventoux, Montagne de Lure, the Verdon Gorge, the Massif des Maures, and Sainte-Baume.
And so, despite my doubts, the call of adventure was stronger. The train pulled away, and once again, a journey began at Part-Dieu station. This time, I headed toward Haute-Provence for a cycling adventure. It would be my first solo bike trip. I was a little nervous—cycling with panniers makes you feel vulnerable to theft. I’d already been robbed while traveling in a group in Peru, and that experience left me deeply shaken. Alone, I hesitated. But no need to panic—I’d read accounts from long-distance cyclists who hadn’t been robbed, even if it does happen sometimes. I was particularly thinking of a young schoolteacher who had taken a sabbatical to cycle around the world. Her students had remarked, "Teacher, you’re not sporty—how will you manage to cycle around the world?" This young woman was full of resourcefulness. In South America, before flying to China, she locked her bike to a post to take care of a natural need. When she returned, the post had been torn out, and her bike—along with all her gear—was gone. It was a shock for many, but not for her. She boarded her flight to the Middle Kingdom, bought the essentials (including a new bike) once there, and continued her journey! Remembering this story, I almost felt ashamed of my cowardice. These were the thoughts running through my mind as the Rhône Valley rolled by toward Orange, the starting point of my Provençal adventure through the big climbs.
Day One: Orange to Sault via Mont Ventoux – 90 km
9:30 AM, I stepped off the train. With all my gear, I had to navigate the underground passage—no easy feat, given that my bike and luggage weighed 35 kilos. At this time of year, I expected some areas to be deserted, so I’d packed enough to bivouac comfortably. Once outside the station, the southern light flooded over me. I understood why people dream of retiring in these sun-drenched regions. As always, after disembarking from public transport, I had to get my bearings and decide which way to go. The sun, still low on the horizon, pointed east. The roar of fighter jet engines helped me locate the Air Base 115. That was all I needed to "reset the gyros."
As soon as I started pedaling, all my apprehensions vanished. The joy of discovery and physical effort took over, and euphoria washed over me. It’s amazing how emotions can shift from one moment to the next based on seemingly minor circumstances.
The weather was splendid—the forecast had predicted continuous showers, but it was completely wrong. I quickly left the city behind. Mont Ventoux loomed mysteriously, its dimensions hard to gauge. It was even more enigmatic with its summit hidden beneath swirling, mottled clouds clinging to the ridges. It reminded me of a great South American volcano. I struggled to imagine that in a few hours, I’d be up there under that blanket of mist.
The countryside was shaking off its autumnal nighttime dampness. The vineyards, interspersed with tall cypress hedges, confirmed I was in the magnificent Côtes du Rhône wine region. The distinctive Dentelles de Montmirail were very much in evidence. The air force base wasn’t far. I passed the runway’s end markers. A Mirage 2000 flew overhead in a tight turn, followed by another roaring into takeoff. It came straight at me before climbing sharply with a thunderous roar. Thirty years spent in that captivating world came rushing back. I recalled countless extraordinary human and technical experiences from my time in the service. But the purpose of this post isn’t to promote the air force—though I might post some articles one day about travels among men at war.
I continued on my way, leaving my past loves behind. As I pedaled, delightful names rolled by: Violès, Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise—the crème de la crème of the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. I let myself be enchanted by the vineyards and the little paths crisscrossing them. I started to doubt my route, though the imposing mass of Mont Ventoux in the distance acted like a giant beacon. At a crossroads, a car appeared. I approached to ask the driver for directions, but she didn’t even look at me and sped off, clearly frightened. I’d almost forgotten what a fearful world we live in, no doubt traumatized by all the horrors we see in the news and on TV.
The kilometers started adding up, but was my day’s goal too ambitious? It had been two months since I’d last ridden my bike. True, my last trip had been good training—the Route des Grandes Alpes—but that was two months ago. I can’t just take my bike out for a day trip; I need that sense of adventure to find the courage to exercise.
Two cyclists overtook me. Intrigued by my load, they struck up a conversation. They were skeptical when I told them I planned to cross Mont Ventoux that day. One of them pointed out a small chapel near the summit where I could bivouac sheltered. That motivated me even more to reach the top on this first stage. The chapel also had a mythical name for me—Sainte-Anne, the name of my parents’ villa. It was already noon, and I’d covered 50 kilometers. Malaucène appeared—the sacred village of Ventoux’s mad cyclists. Surprisingly, I didn’t see any other cyclists today. I remembered this place in June, teeming with aspirants for the king of summits. Before tackling the climb ahead, I needed to refuel. I enjoyed a pleasant gastronomic break at Max’s. At 1 PM, I started the most famous climb in cycling—21 kilometers, which would actually be 23. I knew it would be tough, especially with two handicaps: 50 kilometers already in my legs and 20 kilos of luggage. But I was counting on my tiny chainring, which let me climb trees to tackle the steep ramps.
I set off at a brisk pace along a deserted road. My speed held up for the first few kilometers. I quickly rose above the valley, the horizon widening. I was surprised to see no one on this world-renowned route among cycling enthusiasts. During the climb and descent, I’d only see five cyclists—but I’ll come back to that. I passed a sign explaining that the effort would be roughly equivalent to climbing the Col de la Bonnette. Having done the latter in September, I figured I’d be fine. I crossed paths with my first cyclist—a woman speeding downhill. After 12 kilometers, I hit slopes averaging 12%. I don’t know if the number 12 is cursed, but I got such a "bamboo" hit that I’d never experienced before. I thought I wouldn’t make it to the summit today. I stopped. My thighs burned so much I could barely walk—lactic acid overload. I looked for a relatively flat spot to pitch my tent. It was 3:30 PM, with two hours of daylight left. But I found nothing.
I got back on my bike, intending to stop as soon as I found a good bivouac spot. But nothing came up. However, my strength slowly returned, perhaps because the slope eased, though it remained around 10%. I entered the summit mists. A cyclist overtook me. I was in the zone where I had to pass the summit. Dusk caught me in the final difficulties. The atmosphere was downright austere. In the twilight, a kilometer from the summit, a cyclist was fixing his bike. I asked if he needed help. He made it clear he didn’t understand. So I asked, "Do you need some help?" His answer was clear: "No, thank you." He showed me his new inner tube. Inside, I thought, "Phew!" If I’d had to stop, sweating in the falling night with the cold intensifying, I’d have struggled to get going again. But he managed, and I continued into the twilight fog. I could barely make out the summit’s large antennas in the clouds, like immense ghosts trying to evade sight. The bike delivered sensations worthy of mountain racing. My goal was to quickly find the famous chapel in the descent to take shelter. As I glided down the southern slope, two cyclists without lights crossed my path in the night—probably heading to the station above, its lights visible in the fog.
I scanned the roadside in the dark for the chapel but saw nothing. After a kilometer or two, I lost all hope. I stopped to put on more clothes as the cold became intense. I had no idea where I could stop on these steep slopes to set up camp. Between the swirls of mist, I could intermittently see the Rhône Valley below, dotted with illuminated towns and villages. The sight was striking. What was I doing on this mountain at night? Then the miracle happened—the clouds parted, and from the ridge above me to the east, a beautiful full moon emerged, casting enough light to consider a nighttime descent to Sault, 26 kilometers away.
In this eerie atmosphere between the moon’s pale rays and patches of fog, I began my descent through a hazy, almost unreal world. The Ventoux’s characteristic white scree reflected the moonlight faintly, dimmed by the mist. In places, entire mountainsides were plunged into complete darkness, and I lost all sense of the road’s path. Then, around a tight bend caused by a land shift, the light returned. It seemed extreme compared to the darkness I’d left behind. I could once again clearly see the road’s contours, though not its potholes or gravel patches. Still, I let the slope carry me, and the speed felt significant, though the low light prevented me from reading my speedometer. In these moments, concentration was at its peak—all senses alert, reflexes ready to react to the slightest incident that could lead to a fall.
I was relieved to see Sault’s lights growing closer. In less than an hour, I reached it, considering the final little climb that required one last push. This village, bustling in summer, was deserted at this time of year—almost dead. The first hotel I came across was closed. A quick shadow passed in a small sloping street. Before it disappeared into the darkness at a house corner, I chased after it and asked about accommodation options. Very kindly, I was directed to what was probably the only hotel open in November. I quickly found it, and the reception was open. I entered wearing my black balaclava, bought in the Ayacucho region—the birthplace of Peru’s Shining Path. At this late hour, I saw questioning glances directed at me. I prefaced, "This isn’t a hold-up." Clearly, the owners had a sense of humor—they started smiling. I took off my balaclava and asked for a room. No problem, and from that moment, the pressure eased. I really didn’t feel like going back out to find a spot to pitch my tent in the biting cold.
The stage had been nearly 100 kilometers, and it was the first. It had been two months since I’d touched my bike, and I probably lacked even minimal training, even though my last bike trip had been crossing the French Alps. I really had to dig deep to overcome my weakness on Ventoux’s steep section. I don’t remember ever having to search so deeply for the energy to keep going. I knew the stage I’d set for tomorrow was significant, with the climb up Montagne de Lure’s northern slope—Ventoux’s little sister, whose ascent is reputed to be endless, over 25 kilometers. I hoped this first day wouldn’t leave me too sore to avoid suffering excessively tomorrow.
For now, relaxation—a hot shower did me a world of good, followed by a good meal. I ate a delicious andouillette from Troyes, very fine, with a particularly successful herb seasoning. I loved it, and yet I’m from Lyon and pride myself on knowing a thing or two about andouillette—not just a sausage but a whole category! A bit chauvinistic, I had to admit, though reluctantly, that I found it better than the ones I usually eat in the Lyon region!
Day Two: Sault to Forcalquier via Montagne de Lure – 116 km
This morning, the weather was magnificent—the air clear, still, very fresh, and invigorating, as only the late season can offer on these Provençal highlands. In summer, they’re known for their scorching heat and drought, but often overlooked is how harsh they can be with cold and storms. Authors like Giono or Bosco described them and their inhabitants wonderfully in books like "Les Âmes Fortes."
The miracle of the night had worked. I wasn’t sore anywhere and felt in great shape. I set off well-equipped, but the effort and sun soon made me sweat. It was time to shed some layers—hat and gloves. A gentle warmth replaced the cold, making for excellent cycling conditions. On the road to Trinit, there was no traffic—only the occasional hunters’ cars parked in the distance. These vehicles were recognizable by their large cages, used to transport hunting dogs. Sometimes, the silence was broken by a distant gunshot. The deciduous forests were losing their foliage, taking on that dull brown hue of late autumn, though here and there, a tree or shrub still resisted, displaying vivid yellow or red. The meadows, their grass already scorched by the cold, were damp from the night’s heavy humidity. The low sun highlighted thousands of spider webs that had trapped insects during the warm season.
Behind me, Mont Ventoux dominated these vast spaces. As often, its imposing, stony summit was crowned with a blanket of clouds. What an impressive mountain—it’s always so hard to gauge its dimensions. I struggled to realize that last night I’d been at the summit and descended its immense southern ridge in the dark. I hoped to return one day in favorable conditions—daylight and no clouds—to enjoy the vast panorama from this unique summit.
Leaving the very Provençal village of Trinit, I tackled my first climb of the day—the Col de l’Homme Mort. The road rose moderately for five kilometers in gentle warmth. The view over the region widened, and I felt the sheer joy of pedaling. At a good pace, I overcame this first little challenge. Once at the pass, I couldn’t resist the ritual of photographing my bike in front of the sign, giving the name and altitude—1,213 meters.
The northern slope was austere and still in shadow. The cold bit again. The road was wet and covered with leaves in places. It wasn’t impossible that some treacherous patches of black ice lurked around a bend. I descended toward the Jabron Valley with caution. Suddenly, around a bend in a forest clearing, the freshly snow-covered Alps, gleaming in the sun, leapt into view, blocking the horizon. I thought I recognized the distinctive silhouette of the Écrins’ south face above a multitude of jagged peaks.
This snow and these mountains awakened a flood of memories of great joys, but I also thought of the guide and his client who had just lost their lives on the Grandes Jorasses’ north face, at the top of a route called the Linceul. The name comes from the face’s appearance—a great ice slope bordering the Grandes Jorasses’ north wall. It was first climbed by René Desmaison in 1968. He passed away a few years ago and, in his final wishes, asked that his ashes be scattered in the Dévoluy Massif at the foot of Pic de Bure, not far from here in these immense pre-Alpine folds.
At my feet, the Jabron Valley stretched almost endlessly east toward Sisteron. In the distance, the dark mass of Montagne de Lure’s north face loomed. This mountain shares similarities with Mont Ventoux. It has the same summit scree of bright limestone, the same forests climbing up to the final rocky stretch, and that blanket of clouds adding a secretive, austere touch to the scene.
I turned left past the town of Séderon and headed toward the little Col de la Pigière, which in a few kilometers allowed me to truly plunge into the beautiful Jabron Valley. I passed through several villages with charming local names—Saint-Vincent, Noyer-sur-Jabron. The river offered lovely views of its narrow gorges with clear, cold water. Autumn seemed less advanced here than on the plateau I’d just left. Many trees still wore brilliant colors, some revealing extraordinary hues—mixes of crimson, pink, and bright red.
Arriving in Noyer-sur-Jabron, I took a tiny road on the river’s right bank, leading in a few kilometers to the foot of Montagne de Lure. In the village of Valbelle, I picnicked on leftovers I’d brought from home—an old cheese and a somewhat stale loaf of bread. It was 1:30 PM. I began the long climb of about 25 kilometers. According to a friend who’s a cycling expert in the region, this section is tough. No wonder it’s called Ventoux’s little sister—the Mont Blanc of cyclists. The elevation gain on this side is still 1,200 meters, while Ventoux via Malaucène is nearly 1,600 meters.
I hoped to reach the summit before nightfall and avoid reliving a nighttime descent. The route wound through a vast forest, following the terrain’s folds. There was activity—mushroom hunters were busy searching for the coveted chanterelle. The climb, though never very steep (only one kilometer at 9%), was interminable. Though traffic was practically nonexistent, I was overtaken by a group of Harley bikers—I counted about forty. Perched high on their machines, hands in the air on wildly shaped handlebars, some with their feet nearly in the sky due to the high footpegs, they didn’t even glance my way. What’s this idiot doing, unable to ride a motorcycle and forced to climb these mountains on a bike with big bags! I wasn’t offended—real Harley purists often see other motorcyclists as renegades, so bikes are even lower on the totem pole! But I didn’t want to start a debate about motorcycles. In my youth, when I was a wild motorcyclist (22 accidents on two wheels), clans were divided into Japanese, German, Italian, and British bike owners. The latter, on their vibrating, oil-leaking machines, considered themselves the purest. But let’s not fight—there’s a statute of limitations, and it’s been nearly forty years.
As yesterday, a few kilometers below the summit, I entered the fog, and the light dropped suddenly. What a hostile mountain in these conditions! It heightened the sense of living an incredible experience. The conditions we encounter play a major role in how the adventure imprints on our memory. I realized once again that in France, you can feel like you’re very far away. Finally, after this very long climb, the Pas de Graille sign suddenly appeared out of the grayness. Strange! Below the sign, a kilometer marker indicated this same pass was over three kilometers away. Clearly, the climb continued. In these final kilometers through the scree, I gained another 130 meters of elevation. Finally, the road’s high point was reached—1,720 meters. It was cold and damp. I quickly covered up, added my balaclava under my helmet, and put on warm gloves. As I was about to start the descent, a car stopped at the summit, and one of the passengers was surprised to find a bike there in these chilly, twilight conditions.
A 20-kilometer descent led me to the village of Saint-Étienne-les-Orgues. I hoped to find a place to stay for the night. No such luck! Everything was clearly closed—no chance of finding shelter. Tonight was getting complicated. I already had exactly 100 kilometers in my legs and didn’t feel like pedaling anymore, especially at night. But I had even less desire to sleep outside. What to do to avoid it? The town of Forcalquier was 16 kilometers away—I hoped the road would descend. I set off in that direction. The first third was along a beautiful, lightly trafficked departmental road with a slight downhill—I pedaled hard. But it got tougher. I joined a busier road, and night had fallen. A several-kilometer climb finished the journey. I knew my magnetic lights weren’t very powerful—hence the danger. They were even less so on the climb because the slower I went, the less they illuminated. Cars coming the opposite way often saw me late and blinded me with their high beams. After passing, I was plunged into total darkness for a few seconds while my pupils readjusted to the night. I imagined those coming up behind me saw me with little warning, despite my slightly fluorescent jacket. When the roadside was clear, I always positioned myself to quickly jump off the road. But unfortunately, in this long final climb, a guardrail prevented any escape to the right in case of sudden braking behind me. That was even more anxiety-inducing since I was stuck at a snail’s pace. Time seemed long. I pedaled as hard as I could, on the verge of asphyxiation, trying to escape this dangerous situation as quickly as possible. My only reference point was the vehicles in front of me, letting me know the climb wasn’t over. Then suddenly, the ordeal ended—the road’s high point was reached. The town and its lights emerged from the void, and clarity returned. Phew! I glided down toward this little town bathed in light. On November 11th, I hoped to find an open hotel since I’d clearly exceeded 100 kilometers, and the idea of having to leave town to find a bivouac spot somewhat frightened me.
I arrived in the town center. Activity was low. The first hotel was closed, but I spotted a lit sign for another establishment further on. I headed there, got off my bike, and entered. The welcome was immediately friendly—a big cat came to rub against me. For me, that was a very good sign, and the first impression was confirmed. I still had to go out to eat. I covered the minimum distance. A restaurant advertised "Mom’s Cooking." I expected Provençal specialties, but they were Moroccan. I chose a delicious tagine with lime and olives, followed by almond and honey ice cream. Exhausted after this 116-kilometer stage, I returned to my room. As often after intense efforts, it was hard to fall asleep.
Day Three: Forcalquier to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie – 58 km
On this third day, due to the progress made yesterday, the stage would be short. I’d call it a transition between two mountain ranges. Indeed, the next big climb is the Verdon Gorge. I planned to position myself at its foot this evening in preparation for a tough stage tomorrow. I made a few purchases—bread, bananas, and medicine for stomach burns (the midday sausage wasn’t always kind to me). The weather was still perfect. The route began with a long descent toward the Durance. It’s always nice to start a cycling day with a downhill—it boosts morale and allows for a gentle warm-up.
I quickly reached the town of Oraison. Just at its entrance, I crossed the Durance, which still bore traces of last week’s heavy rains along its sandbanks. Indeed, numerous stumps and trunks were scattered along its vast gravel bed, along with less ecological debris like old tires.
A little south of Oraison, I took the D907, a small road heading due east between scrubland and meadows. There it was—the Provence we imagine. This stable autumn weather, with still air, neither hot nor cold, just a fresh feeling when emerging from a shaded valley or a slight warmth under the sun, was ideal for a cyclist. After about ten kilometers at the bottom of a small valley I quickly passed through, the village of Le Brunet appeared on the right. It clung to the slopes leading to the Valensole Plateau. A few steep kilometers along a tiny winding road, and suddenly a vast panorama unfolded as the climb ended.
What a magnificent plateau! Though known for its wind, luckily today was completely calm. Far to the east, the Verdon’s great cliffs blocked the horizon. This allowed me to contemplate part of tomorrow’s stage. This place is full of mysteries—many UFO and extraterrestrial encounter stories are associated with it. Moreover, for about thirty years, France hid its ground-to-ground nuclear ballistic missiles here, grouped in the 1st GMS (Ballistic Missile Group), under the air force. Naturally, these rockets fueled fantasies, and pacifist groups settled in the region to protest this type of armament. This gives many reasons to shroud this austere, deserted land in mystery.
I took a dirt path leading to the heart of this zone and stopped at the forest’s edge for lunch. The silence was total, the view stretched very far. But nothing strange or bizarre manifested. No Martian came to share my frankly moldy cheese, very peppery sausage, or bruised banana—sniff! I resumed my route, and as often when crossing places with strong character, I tended to slow down to enjoy them longer. The immense lavender fields stretched endlessly, not very fragrant at this season. I arrived at a group of truffle oaks protected by a fence, with large red signs warning "Firearm." Clearly, the war for the black diamond was raging in this region. I remembered a novel where an old farmer made buyers believe nothing grew on his land. Every year, he secretly stole the mushrooms from the unsuspecting owners. Then one day, they discovered the truth, catching this "polite" neighbor trying to hide a basket full of beautiful, large truffles!
In these vast spaces, I felt good—a sense of plenitude. It’s strange that I only conceive of cycling through wandering. I struggle to plan a day trip. And if I do, it’s highly likely I won’t get up. I need that sense of adventure to fully appreciate my physical effort. Maybe one day I should get psychoanalyzed, but at my age, it’s probably too late! Today, I had all the time in the world—the stage was half as long as yesterday’s, with very little elevation gain. Not a sound, an impressive calm, a beautiful landscape—I pedaled in a wonderful place. That’s probably happiness!
I reached the village of Puimoisson on the plateau’s eastern edge—only 12 kilometers left to Moustiers. I took my time, sat at a café terrace in the sun, and leisurely enjoyed a coffee while listening to the village come to life. I was delighted by these melodious southern voices, bursting into great laughter. There are places where, despite the anxieties caused by our debt-ridden, dysfunctional societies, some have decided to take life on the bright side and show a saving insouciance.
The rest of the journey was a simple formality—I let the slope carry me toward the pretty little town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, clinging to the cliff and famous for its faïence. Arriving early for once, I went to the tourist office to choose a comfortable hotel. Indeed, the Hôtel des Restanques was very comfortable and admirably well-located. But at this time of year, I’d have to return to the village center for dinner. The very kind receptionist reserved a table for me at La Treille Muscate, a restaurant with a magnificently arranged room on the church square. It was only 3:30 PM—I continued to take my time, showering and relaxing in front of the TV. Then I set off to explore—or rather, re-explore—this village I’d visited several times before. But I’d never climbed to its chapel perched in the middle of the great cliff towering over the houses. A stony, aerial path led there. The first mentions of the Notre-Dame de Beauvoir chapel, known in ancient times as Notre-Dame d’Entre-Roches, date back to the 9th century. It’s one of the rare "respite" chapels found in Provence. These are chapels where stillborn children were brought to be revived for a few moments, just long enough to baptize them. They could then be buried religiously, ensuring the salvation of their souls. I was also very moved by reading some ex-votos, like the one from "A mother for her three children returned from the war."
The place was impressive, especially as night fell. I was alone and watched the shadows fill the great cliffs above me. With an old climber’s reflex, I looked for possible climbing routes among these slabs and cracks. But climbing is probably forbidden here, too close to the houses. Then I descended to stroll through the village, admiring the magnificent, finely crafted faïence patterns found in many shops. Finally, dinnertime arrived, and I joined my restaurant, which had been highly recommended. I was delighted by the foie gras ravioli and the pieds et paquets—the chef’s specialty. I’ll come back with family.
Day Four: Moustiers to Fréjus via the Verdon – 122 km
A hearty breakfast prepared me for the day’s tough efforts. Next to me, four Chinese people chatted animatedly. Of course, I didn’t understand a word—it was a language with strange intonations and sounds. I left the dining room and prepared my bike on the terrace. Seeing the volume of my luggage, my Chinese friends rushed over and asked to take turns having their photo taken in front of this funny setup. All laughing, they took photos in front of what they probably considered a French coolie off on some trading business! When they show these photos to their relatives, they’ll likely be perplexed about what motivates some to travel by bike rather than car. For them, the car is a symbol of success—according to an article I read last year, 14,000 cars are registered in China every day!
This morning, the air was fresh. As yesterday, I started with a long descent, this time leading to the edge of Lac de Sainte-Croix. A strong, biting headwind slowed me down. It wouldn’t last, as it was generated by the gorge’s outlet, which I’d reach in a few kilometers. On this cold morning, the lake’s shores exuded great tranquility. The sun was still hidden behind the Verdon’s mountainous mass. Trees with yellow leaves stood out against the water’s pale blue. The bridge marking the gorge’s beginning at the lake’s edge was an ideal spot to admire this natural splendor. At this early hour, the play of light and shadow on the water and the immense cliffs delivered a grandiose spectacle in beautiful harmony. This first contact with the gorges, which I knew well, amazed me.
Once past the bridge, the wind calmed. A little further on, I began the long climb that would take me to the top of this immense natural gash, which water had taken millions of years to carve. I was in good shape and highly motivated by the splendors to come. First, I reached the village of Aiguines, which offered a magnificent viewpoint over the lake. Then I continued toward the Corniche Sublime, where countless breathtaking panoramas unfolded as I progressed. But the climb was sustained and long, requiring effort—though my small chainring worked miracles. I first passed the Col d’Illoire, already 500 meters above the lake. Seeing all these great cliffs, countless climbing memories came flooding back. The classic routes of the Escalès cliff, over 300 meters high, flashed by. Routes with legendary names—La Demande, Les Écureuils, Luna-Bong, and many others. The one that left me with the best memory was ULA—a crack, vertical or even overhanging, of sheer beauty rising above a 40-meter slab in one go for 280 meters of sustained, beautiful climbing on extraordinary rock. It made me want to return to climb there, to immerse myself in the atmosphere of those past times. But climbing habits have changed—now routes are accessed from above by rappel, and people don’t always bother to do these great climbs in their entirety, focusing instead on shorter but technically much more difficult enterprises.
At almost every bend, I stopped and scanned these great cliffs, searching for memories of past experiences and emotions in these secret rock folds. The road climbed well above the pass, exceeding 1,200 meters. It was cool, especially since I was sweating. Finally reaching the high point of the Corniche Sublime, I couldn’t gain speed on the descent—my gaze was always drawn to this astonishing canyon. Around a bend, two cyclists with funny small-wheeled bikes. Wow! It was a couple of Australians doing a year-long tour of France. We chatted passionately about our two-wheeled experiences for a moment. But time was passing, and if I wanted to reach Fréjus before nightfall, I’d have to pedal seriously.
I stopped at the Pont de l’Artuby, where bungee jumping was in full swing. But I quickly set off again toward Comps. The wind was against me, and it was climbing. I started to doubt whether I’d make it to the coast that evening. At 2 PM, I was in Comps-sur-Artuby. I didn’t stop, knowing that before reaching the coast, I’d have no alternative to bivouacking, and I had 70 kilometers left to cover. Sure, it should be downhill, but a few climbs were on the program. After a descent out of the village, I crossed the Artuby River again on the Canjuers military camp. A several-kilometer climb followed, fortunately not too steep. I took the D19 toward Barjols. From there, despite the late hour, I opted for a tiny road passing through Claviers, a small perched village. Time passed quickly, but the kilometers added up. I regained hope. Fifteen kilometers after this last village, I reached Saint-Paul-en-Forêt via a magnificent forested route. I had plenty of time to observe mushroom hunters. I asked one who clearly had some in a plastic bag. He gave me this hilarious answer with a magnificent southern accent: "I only picked the bad ones." No reply was possible. I moved on with a smile. A little further on, another hunter carried a basket. As soon as he saw me, he quickly hid it—just in case I saw what it contained. Arriving at the village involved a steep climb, and I was close to 100 kilometers. I still had a little over 20 kilometers to go before reaching Fréjus. The race against nightfall had begun. Over there to my right, I saw the sun setting behind Roquebrune-sur-Argens’ distinctive rock. The sea appeared. There it was—I was in Fréjus’ industrial zone. On this Sunday evening, traffic was heavy. Indeed, many had taken advantage of the return of good weather after very heavy storms to go for a walk. After quite a few detours, I arrived at the seaside just as night fell. My odometer showed 122 km for the day. I quickly found a simple hotel, ate just as quickly, and went to bed.
Day Five: Fréjus to Solliès-Pont – 92 km
Once again, the night had done its restorative work, and I prepared to cross the Massif des Maures feeling quite fresh. The weather forecast was still favorable for today, but a deterioration was expected tomorrow. I tended to trust it because the east wind was blowing, and in the region, that’s a sign of rain. For now, in the short term, this wind would be very useful—it would push me generously throughout the day.
I started calmly along the harbor quays, looking at the boats. Then I joined the road to Saint-Aygulf and followed the coast for forty kilometers to Port-Grimaud. All these seaside resorts—Saint-Aygulf, Les Issambres, Sainte-Maxime—reminded me of my youth when we spent all our vacations fishing, whether from shore, underwater, or by boat. Looking at the sea roll by, I knew what the seabeds looked like under that surface hiding them. The marine areas we knew best were now under the parking lots and commercial zones of Saint-Raphaël’s new port. In our youth, these infrastructures didn’t exist, and their construction came at the expense of coastal marine areas. Our wonderful fishing spots were permanently buried. I remember seeing the first big trucks that came to dump their loads of earth and rubble, destroying all those wonderful places—sandbanks, seaweed beds, groups of rocky holes teeming with fish that enchanted our youth. Over forty years later, I can still visualize them in my imagination under those parking lots and stores, with the names we gave them—my brothers and I: le casse-croûte, le casse-pipe, les montagnes, la digue, la grille, la mare à mulets, la petite-plage, le trou, etc.
Let’s not be overwhelmed by nostalgia. I left the coast and took the little road through the Maures to Collobrières. The route led from ridge to ridge following the terrain’s movements. At this time of year, the region was admirable. Due to the heavy storms of recent weeks, water was streaming everywhere. Waterfalls and streams murmured all along the way. I didn’t recognize the Maures, which I knew for their dryness causing apocalyptic fires. Indeed, around a bend, I came across a small rest area where a memorial had been erected for three firefighters who lost their lives here while fighting one of those gigantic fires fanned by the mistral.
This forest holds treasures—first, the cork oak, then the arbutus, chestnut trees, and of course, mushrooms that love this granitic soil:
The cork oak can be found all along the road. It’s the forest’s essential element. You can recognize it by its light bark (before exploitation), which forms large bulges along the trunk. But after exploitation, the trunks are much smoother, less voluminous, and dark in color. The arbutus is a large berry with red skin covered in small protuberances, growing on the arbutus tree. This fruit, common in Mediterranean areas, ripens in November. That means today, there were plenty around me. Its flesh is orange, with the consistency of firm purée, and it crushes softly in the mouth. The taste of this berry is sweet and excellent. I didn’t hold back—I gorged myself on them, which served as my midday meal. Sometimes I had to climb embankments to get them.
The chestnut tree, a true industry of the region, brings wealth to the surrounding villages. They make candied chestnuts, ice cream, and other products derived from chestnut flour. Be careful not to stop just anywhere to pick this fruit, as the tree owners might not agree. They even make this clear with signs and surround their chestnut trees with fences. Mushrooms—saffron milk caps and porcini—are highly prized in the area. I saw a few hunters, but it clearly wasn’t miraculous. Supposedly, there had been too much rain?
There’s no time to get bored along this little road, from which you can sometimes see the sea. I passed the Col de Taillude at over 400 meters. I began the descent to Collobrières, the chestnut capital, whose festival attracts many people. Before entering, about a hundred meters from the first houses, a cyclist—probably an agricultural worker—came toward me. As he passed, he cheerfully called out, "Go on, little guy! It’s almost there!" We both smiled. At the end of November, the village was cold and almost deserted. Dead leaves swept the wet streets of the town. You could feel winter on the way. I continued my route to Pierrefeu-du-Var, on the western edge of the Massif des Maures. So I gave my last pedal strokes in this pretty little massif so characteristic of Provence.
I looked for a hotel in Cuers but without success. I descended toward Toulon and finally found one on the outskirts of Solliès-Pont. It catered to people coming to work in the region, so nothing very bucolic. But if the weather were to deteriorate tomorrow and turn to rain, I could quickly reach Hyères or Toulon station, which was a significant advantage. Indeed, November rains aren’t usually very pleasant on a bike.
Day Six: Solliès-Pont to Cassis via Sainte-Baume – 85 km
This morning, contrary to the weather forecast, the weather was beautiful, and the latest bulletin seemed to contradict yesterday’s. So no escape to Toulon—I resumed my route toward Sainte-Baume. I left the hotel via a tiny road that, through ups and downs, led me via shortcuts to the road to Belgentier. My body had gotten used to intense daily efforts, and I felt in Olympic form. At a good pace, I launched into a long climb with a moderate slope. The road was busy, but fortunately, the side lane for cyclists often made the exercise more pleasant. The villages rolled by—Méounes, La Roquebrussanne. Near the latter, I observed a Tiger combat helicopter in training. It hovered motionless for long periods—perhaps the pilots were training to master their increasingly sophisticated weapon systems, requiring even more learning?
I left the busy road and headed via an almost deserted route toward the village of Mazaugues. The climbs became steeper. A long descent, and there I was in this pretty village. A grocery store, which besides selling a few ingredients also served as a café. I sat near the electric heater—it was cold, and I was sweaty. I watched customers come and go and listened to the shopkeeper tell me about village life. The name Mazaugues comes from "water mass," which is why drought doesn’t usually affect this area. Apparently, you can even find mushrooms here in summer! I had a good time, and as I was leaving, a local cyclist started a conversation and told me about her dreams of long bike trips, currently limited by her situation as a mother of terrible children. She settled for day trips with her club, which was already good in this very hilly region. I told her the story of a man who, at 73, cycled solo around Morocco. So no panic—she still had thirty or forty years to realize her wildest dreams!
I was warned that it would be a tough climb to reach Sainte-Baume’s northern slope. Indeed, over eight kilometers, the average slope was sustained, but the landscape was wonderful. Here too, water was streaming everywhere. I passed one of those famous icehouses that used to supply Marseille with ice throughout the year. This northern slope of Sainte-Baume is very cold, and this characteristic was exploited in previous centuries to produce ice. Large cylindrical structures, well-protected to the north and semi-buried, received large quantities of water in late autumn, which froze during winter and was kept cool for months until the following winter. Ice blocks were cut and delivered by cart to the city. That’s how, in ancient times, ice was available in summer to keep fish fresh in Marseille. Did pastis exist at that time? If not, the ice cubes must have been bored!
Once the climb was over, the long ridge of Sainte-Baume appeared, and I could see its characteristic antennas. Nestled at the foot of the cliffs, the magnificent millennial forest revealed itself with its autumn colors. I stopped at the monastery. I’d been there several times before and had even slept there during a long walking trip. The welcome had been first-rate by the Dominicans, especially the sisters in their long immaculate robes. They radiated a serenity that was very contagious. Don’t hesitate to stop there for the night. I struggled to get back on my way—some places have a special spirit.
I was soon at the end of my journey. I continued along this magnificent mountain to the Col de l’Espigoulier. To the north, another immense wave of white limestone rose—Montagne Sainte-Victoire, a high place in Provence that painter Cézanne made world-famous. Once at the pass, the entire city of Marseille spread out at my feet, the Mediterranean coast revealed itself from the Calanques to La Ciotat, passing by the famous Cap Canaille, Europe’s highest sea cliff. Above me, bathed in sunlight, Bartagne’s northwest face, very popular among climbers, showed all its reliefs. With an old climber’s reflex, I spotted the many climbs I’d done there. I let myself be carried into a steep, winding descent toward the village of Gémenos in a beautiful setting full of cliffs.
A few more kilometers of climbing toward the Col de l’Ange, then toward Roquefort-la-Bédoule. In this last climb, I raced with two cyclists, admittedly not very young. Then, in a six-kilometer descent, I reached Cassis station, the endpoint of my six-day journey through this wild Provençal land between sea and mountain. I experienced great pleasure during these 570 kilometers through these renowned yet wild French massifs. As always, when a beautiful project comes to an end, you feel a bit orphaned by a beautiful dream come true. You have to quickly envision the next one to avoid a vague sense of emptiness taking over. My next adventure is already taking shape in my mind, but that’s another story.
Hôtel près de Playa del Carmen en mars 2012 English translation pending
Bonjour,
Nous (2 couples 35ans) recherchons un forfait tout-inclus 4+, 18ans et plus, budget de $2000 par personnes, départ début mars 2012...
Hotel près de Playa Del Carmen, moins 1hr d'autobus entre hotel et avion.
Merci,
Nous (2 couples 35ans) recherchons un forfait tout-inclus 4+, 18ans et plus, budget de $2000 par personnes, départ début mars 2012...
Hotel près de Playa Del Carmen, moins 1hr d'autobus entre hotel et avion.
Merci,