Hi Seb,
It’s tough to choose between these two great Indonesian islands. Having traveled to each several times, I’ve noticed some similarities: regions with strong cultures and stunning villages and landscapes (Batak country and Minang country in Sumatra, Toraja country in Sulawesi), often welcoming locals, and a roughly similar cost of living. Sulawesi is probably a bit more touristy than Sumatra, though at the time you’re going, you won’t be bothered by too many tourists. In Sumatra, you’ll find more lush nature, with large parks like Gunung Leuser National Park, where you can see orangutans and do less crowded treks, including volcano climbs.
For diving or snorkeling, Bunaken and the Togian Islands in Sulawesi are among the most beautiful sites in Asia—if not the world. Weh Island in northern Sumatra is also pretty great. As for beaches, both islands have some lovely, uncrowded spots.
So, it’s a tough choice—I think in either case, you won’t be disappointed.
If you love black-and-white photography, I invite you to check out my site: www.declicsargentiques.com, where you’ll find a portfolio on Minangkabau country in Sumatra.