Le cyclo camping privilégie comme son nom alambiqué l'indique...essentiellement le coucher en plein air ( avec ou sans tente) mais parfois le temps peu propice pour ce faire pousse à un repli à l'abri de fortune ou à l'hôtel.
Parmi vous y en a t'il qui fréquentent les auberges de jeunesse?
Les cyclos y sont -il les bienvenus ou au contraire refoulés?
Quel retour d'expérience de ceux qui y ont séjourné ( sécurité, convivialité, rencontres de quel type de population, rencontre d'autres cyclos?).
Bedoo de Metz
On dit que les voyages forment la jeunesse mais heureusement pas qu'elle!
Slt,
j ai toujours vu que les cyclo y soient les bienvenus. ...Ce sont des clients avant tout !😉
Globalement, je les trouve hors de prix alors je les evite au maximum. De plus, quand il y a un ronfleur ou un mec bourre qui entre en pleine nuit dans la chambre ...🤪
Tu seras tjs mieux dans ta tente !
Le seul interret que je troue aux AJ est d'y rencontrer du monde, ainsi que leure bonne situation geographique en ville.
Actuellement au Maroc, tout est tres dif. en ce moment: Les lits sont a 3 voir 6 euros max, tandis que je suis souvant seul dans les dortoirs !
Oui, j'utilise les AJ et j'en suis en général content.
Bien sûr, elles sont un peu plus onéreuses que les campings, surtout quand il est sauvage. 😉
Mais on y rencontre des gens de tous les pays du monde. Et il y a des matelas, des douches chaudes, des cuisines qui permettent de chauffer rapidement tes nouilles...
Pour ma part, je suis en général content de leurs services. Parfois un peu déçu (Tours). Parfois très content (Cherbourg). C'est ça aussi la surprise des voyages.
Elles sont généralement situées dans des cadres magnifiques .Parmi celles que je connais :Carcassone au coeur de la cité très bon acceuil cette année, Sète vue panoramique sur le bassin de Thau, La Cluzaz très belle vue sur les alpages mais accueil infect en 2006.Si on aime rencontrer des voyageurs c'est une oppotunité intéressante.La première fois il faut acheter la carte 15€ environ
bonjour bedoo
pour fréquenter les AJ, il y a normalement une condition d'age.
les possesseurs d'une licence FFCT peuvent sans condition d'age ni de carte d'adhésion etre admis.
les AJ c''est comme tout, il y en a de bonnes et de moins bonnes et il y a d'excellentes situations.
Salut,
Pas du tout, moi j ai fait des auberges de jeuenesse en France et au Québec et j ai toujours été bien acceuillis et meme qu a plusieurs place (la plus part) y on un endroit pour ranger ton velo
bonjour bedoo
pour fréquenter les AJ, il y a normalement une condition d'age.
les possesseurs d'une licence FFCT peuvent sans condition d'age ni de carte d'adhésion etre admis.
les AJ c''est comme tout, il y en a de bonnes et de moins bonnes et il y a d'excellentes situations.
Bonjour.
Il n'y a aucunes conditions d'age pour pouvoir rester dans une auberge de jeunesse, et une licence FFCT permet juste d'y accéder sans avoir la carte de membre (HI / FUAJ).
Souvent dans les grandes villes, il existe des auberges qui ne font pas partie du reseau "Hostelling International" (FUAJ pour la France), qui sont tout aussi bien, pour lesquelles il n'est pas besoin d'être membre et qui coutent parfois (souvent) moins cher.
Parmi vous y en a t'il qui fréquentent les auberges de jeunesse?
Les cyclos y sont -il les bienvenus ou au contraire refoulés?
Quel retour d'expérience de ceux qui y ont séjourné ( sécurité, convivialité, rencontres de quel type de population, rencontre d'autres cyclos?).
Pourquoi ne serais tu pas le bienvenu?
Tu es un client comme un autre.
Pour l'ambiance et les rencontres, ça va beaucoup dépendre de la période à laquelle tu voyages, mais, tu rencontreras de tout dans une auberge.
La sécurité, c'est comme partout ailleurs, il faut faire attention à tes affaires de valeurs. Il a a souvent des casiers que l'on peut fermer avec un cadenas.
En général, les portes sont fermées en fin de soirée jusqu'au lendemain matin, avec une personne de permanence.
Pour avoir fréquenté assez souvent les AJ en France, j'ai remarqué que la population qui les fréquente (hors saison) n'est pas toujours très jeune ....L'accueil est souvent très bon sauf dans les très grandes stuctures genre (Marseille) .L'AJ que j'ai trouvé la plus sympa est celle de Cancale. J'ai fais tout le littoral de Bordeaux à Calais. Les prix sont raisonnable sachant que le petit dèj est souvent inclus. Le mieux c'est quand même de trouver un petit coin de camping sauvage.
Pas non plus rencontré de problèmes avec ou sans la carte de membres et avec ou sans les tempes grisonnantes 😉
c'est vrai que c'est souvent très cher pour ce que c'est 🤪
Pour en avoir essayé ( parfois sans vélo ) au Quebec , aux USA , en Irlande , en Angleterre , en France etc ; l'atout est d'être au centre ville alors que bien souvent les campings en sont éloignés ...et d'avoir parfois un cadre étonnant (comme cette AJ en Irlande non loin de Kilkenny qui se trouve dans une ancienne tour carré d'un château .
Maintenant quand on voyage à deux , on peux encore se demander si ça vaut le coup comparé à un petit hotel ...
bon dans une AJ , en général on peut se faire à manger , on a accès à la cuisine .
jamais eu de problème en arrivant en vélo .🙂
Par contre , il y a de tout , c'est parfois d'une hygiène très très douteuse quelques soit le pays ...
Salut...
Ai cyclo-randonné l'an passé de Nantes à Colmar, via Nancy. Justement, je suis habitué aux auberges de jeunesse, parce que je ne campe pas (moins de matos à traîner = légèreté).
Le rapport qualité-prix des A.J. est à mon avis excellent. Pas de soucis pour moi, ni de sécurité ni de vol; confort simple et
correct, tjs propre. Pas forcément beaucoup de contacts (accueillent souvent des groupes déjà constitués).
Sont très habitués à recevoir des cyclo-touristes avec leurs soucis (disposer d'un local vélo sûr, etc.)
Les plus proches de chez toi que j'ai pratiqué sont en Alsace : Strasbourg (rien à redire), et Saverne (ds un château
colossal, local vélo ds les douves... à voir).
🙂 nous dormons regulierement en auberge de jeunesse que l on soit à pieds en velo ou en voiture, nous rencontrons des personnes de notre age , la cinquantaine et plus , aussi des jeunes ; c est un hebergement peu cher et n avons jamais ete deçu
amicalement 🙂
Je fais préférentiellement du camping en voyage à vélo mais j'ai recours régulièrement aux AJ (plus souvent à l'étranger qu'en France). Plusieurs raisons : dans les grandes villes car souvent les campings sont excentrés alors quand tu veux faire un peu de visites et tourismes, c'est plus sympa d'être en centre ville ; quand il fait vraiment un temps excécrable (froid, pluie, vent...) ; quand il a fait un temps pourri que tu as quand même campé et que maintenant tu souhaiterais essayer de faire sécher les fringues et toi-même ;-)
Je ne me suis jamais fait refouler (sauf si c'était complet !) et il y a tjs moyen de mettre son vélo qq part (carrément un local, ou quand il n'y a pas, une cours intérieure fait l'affaire...).
Il y a parfois aussi des AJ qui ont un terrain sur lequel tu peux camper, tout en profitant des douches, cuisine, salle à manger...
J'aime bcp les ambiances des AJ, pleins de monde qui voyage pour pleins de raisons différentes, dans des buts différents, vers des souvenirs différents... Du coup, des rencontres riches, éphémères ou plus durables... Des bouts de chemins ensembles... A nouveau la rencontre qq jours plus tard...
Bref je n'hésite en général pas et après j'essaye de choisir aussi en fonction des avis et recommandations des guides de voyage.
Fil intéressant. Je suis membre de FUAJ et je peux dire que j'ai très souvent dormi dans des AJ. Règle générale, c'est top. Mes plus beaux souvenirs (mais ça tient souvent à l'intangible) ont été à Tours et Rochefort (FR), Lausanne et Biel (CH), Linz (OT) et surtout L'Viv (Kosmonaut) en Ukraine. Mes pires expériences sont systématiquement liées au vélo, justement. On m'a fait toute une histoire à Saintes et j'ai dû insister, on m'a carrément envoyer foutre avec une crise d'hystérie anti-vélo à Sète (sans compter qu'y faut monter, là-haut, à la fin de la journée !) et j'ai eu le même comportement exécrable de haine-cyclo à l'AJ de Bialowiesza en Pologne (grâce à quoi j'ai passé les 7 plus beaux jours de ma vie au calme dans ma tente).
Je dirais qu'une bien meilleure combinaison est le mélange de camping et de Warmshowers / Couchsurfing. En plus, les rencontres formidables, le fait d'être directement en plein cœur de la société qu'on visite, en compagnie de gens du patelin ouverts, eux-même voyageurs dans 95% des CS et surtout, 100% cyclorandonneurs du côté des WS.
Je vous écris justement d'un divan prêté par une hyper chouette membre de ce forum qui fait partie de WS.
😉
Bises et bonne roulade !
É.
Et il poursuivit sa route
Celle que voulait sa monture
Car en cela consistait
L'essence de l'aventure
— Cervantes
Nous partons à deux, trés petit budget, pour les canaries le 25 novembre. Nous arrivons avec nos vélos vers 18 heures à l'aéroport sud, eet nous n'avons pas…
Qui a la solution miracle pour bien dormir sans avoir a transporter son matelas de lit? pour mes periples et pour economiser du poids j'avais opté pour un…
Ben oui, je me demande juskou va l'aventure... et puis j ai besoin d'idées, dodo en hamac, tente, chez l habitant, des idées loufoques, des bons plans??? j…
Comme le voyage à vélo "autonome" rime souvent avec tente, matériel pour camper et donc camping libre (ou sauvage), en tous cas pour certains, j'aimerais…
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.