Comme le titre l'indique, nous partons avec ma chérie pour un magnifique voyage en Afrique du sud de 26 jours de mi-mars à début avril.
Les possibilités sont infinies mais pour un premier pas en Afrique australe nous pensons faire du grand classique: Rejoindre Johannesburg depuis Le Cap en voiture de location en passant par le Drakensberg et le Kruger.
Le pays est immense donc j'aimerais avoir votre sentiment sur l'itinéraire ébauché ci-dessous. Nous aurons une petite voiture de location type ford fiesta.
J1: Vol Joha - Le Cap
J2,3,4: Le Cap
J5: Route pour Knysna
J6: Knysna
J7: Route pour pays Karoo (Camdeboo)
J8: Camdeboo et/ou Moutain Zebra NP
J9: Route pour la Wild Coast, Coffee Bay par exemple
J10: Coffee Bay
J11: Route pour Drakensberg entrée sud Underberg
J12,13,14: Drakensberg du sud au nord
J15: Route pour Ithala GR par Drakensberg nord Bergville
J16: Ithala GR
J17: Route pour St Lucia
J18,19: Isimangaliso et alentours
J20: Route matinale pour Mkyaya GR et un 10h-10h dans le parc
J21: Route pour entrée sud Kruger
J22,23,24,25: Kruger NP du sud au centre et après-midi du J28 pour se rapprocher de Joha
J26: Route pour Joha et vol sniff retour pour la France.
Merci d'avance pour vos précieux avis et conseils, beaucoup de route en perspective, trop peut-être.
Pensez-vous qu'un vol La Cap - Durban serait intéressant pour pouvoir passer plus de temps dans le Kwazulu Natal et le Swaziland quitte à mettre de côté les étapes des J5 à J10?
Une halte peut-être à recommander à la sortie du Kruger pour se rapprocher de Joha?
Pernnellement je passerais plus de temps dans le Maputaland et évietrais trop de Km donc je préfèrerais un vol Port Elizabeth Durban ?
Underberg ? Vous ne passez pas au Lesotho ? Vous restez du côté sud-af ? dans ce cas l'idée d'un vol PE Durban prend de la valeur car pourquoi Underberg ? Pour monter la Sani pass en 4x4 organisé ? Si non Du Kamberg au Royal Natal vous avez des choses à voir et à faire .
Camdeboo ne vaut pas autant de temps. J'y étais ce mois de septembre (voir mon carnet)...une étape d'une nuit pour voir la valley of desolation le soir et peut-être le matin...c'est tout (à mon avis).
Par contre mille fois oui pour Mountain Zebra !!!
Ce n'est pas moi qui vais critiquer l'idée d'aller à Mkhaya (voir le premier carnet).
Ni l'isimangaliso...
Donc hormis la question de survoler la wild coast...c'est tout bon !
Une halte avant Joburg...
Soit Graskop si votre avion est assez tardif soit Dulstroom dans l'autre cas.
Je n'avais pas pensé à l'option vol PE - Durban mais quoique un peu plus côuteuse, elle permet de dégager du temps....qui nous manquait justement pour profiter plus longuement du Maputaland et/ou Swaziland.
Adjugé pour le Mountain Zebra et une halte le soir dans la vallée de la désolation, ce qui nous fait gagner un jour.
Le Lesotho sera pour une prochaine fois, quant à Underberg, c'était juste notre porte d'entrée au Drankensberg en venant de la wild coast. Le but est de profiter un maximum de la beauté des lieux et le Royal Natal fait partie du programme. Depuis Durban si nous retenons l'option du vol PE - Durban, Kamberg te semble une bonne base de départ?
Dans le Maputaland et le swaziland, as-tu un ou deux incontournables à tes yeux?
Avec le temps gagné, on pourra peut-être même faire une halte au Blyde river canyon sur le retour du Kruger vers Joha du coup!
PS: petite question pratico-pratique: Traitement anti-paludéen au Swaziland et Kruger fortement conseillé?
Je m'en vais voir tes carnets, un peu de rêve avant le rêve...
Pour le Drak, Kamberg, Giants et Cath Peak
Jette un coup d’œil sur le site Midlands meanders pour des logements hors parcs
Mkhaya !
Jette un coup d’œil sur Tembe
Palu...
Kruger Swaziland et Maputaland dont des zones à risques
Très faible en hiver
Je ne prends rien mais ne conseille rien
Les pistes d'accès à Tembe sont très difficiles et un 4x4 est fortement recommandé.
A l'intérieur du parc tu ne circules qu'avec les véhicules du lodge.
Je confirme que Mountain Zebra NP est un bijou (je te recommande la balade en brousse avec guide), Camdeboo est beaucoup moins bien, par contre la balade sur les hauteurs de la Vallée de la Désolation et la randonnée vers le Spandau Kop au pied des falaises de la première nommée sont magnifiques.
De Knysna, la route qui remonte vers la ville d'Uniondale, emprunte un spectaculaire col : Prince Alfred's Pass. Plus avant, à Willowmore, il y a, à l'est, la direction de Baviaan's Kloof (un endroit hors du temps, l'un des plus sauvages du pays) mais il faut un peu de temps, plutôt un 4x4 et, dans ce cas, on ne va pas à Graaff-Reinet, sauf à entreprendre un très long détour !
De Coffee-Bay, si tu as encore un peu de temps, tu peux remonter plein nord vers Barkly-East ou plutôt Rhodes (la région est superbe) puis rejoindre Underberg par Naudesneck (plus haut col de RSA après Sani), Mount Fletcher, Mataliele et Swartberg. La route est beaucoup plus jolie.
Bien cordialement et bon choix.
Jacky.
"Moins faire pour mieux voir !"
PS : si il fallait faire un choix, personnellement je n'irais ni à Knysna, ni à Coffee-Bay, mais on n'a pas tous les mêmes goûts ! Du Cap, je suivrai la côte vers Kogelberg, Cape Agulhas éventuellement, De Hoop NR puis remonterai vers le Petit Karoo jusqu'à Klaarstroom via Meiringspoort, Willowmore, Graaff-Reinet, Mountain Zebra NP, Rhodes, Underberg et le Drakensberg etc.
Grâce à vos avis, nous peaufinons notre parcours petit à petit.
Nous avons éliminer Coffee Bay au profit de plus de temps dans le Kwazulu Natal, Elephant coast et swaziland.
Entre le Cap et le Drakensberg, que nous aimerions atteindre en 4 jours environ, nous voulons passer par le Moutain Zebra NP mais rien n'est figé pour les 2/3 journées restantes.
Je vais étudier les routes auxquelles tu fais allusion dans ton message.
Je vais me renseigner également sur la région de Rhodes dont j'entends pas mal parler sur le forum.
Quoi qu'il en soit, nous devons faire une halte sur la route entre Le Cap et le Moutain Zebra NP car trop en une seule fois et éventuellement une autre entre le MZ NP et le Drakensberg.
Autant la Prince Alfred est recommandable
Autant pour Baviaans c’est quand même une vraie expédition
C’est un bien beau parcours que tu propose
Il ne faut pas oublier que le tracking de MZ... ça grimpe !😳
En 2008, nous pensions aller à Baviaan's Kloof, mais les crues de la rivière Traka du côté de Willowmore, mais surtout nos hôtes à Steytlerville nous en avaient empêchés. Nous n'avions pas de 4x4.
Nous y sommes allés en 2015 avec un couple d'amis dans un robuste Toyota. La piste qui part un peu au sud de Willowmore (R332) est praticable avec une bonne berline (hors intempéries) sur une longue portion (jusqu'à Studis au moins, je pense) même si elle compte quelques tronçons difficiles. Les paysages traversés sont splendides et sauvages mais nous sommes dans une zone de fermes (quelques magnifiques endroits pour loger). Dans la réserve même, elle devient plus étroite, plus caillouteuse, monte et descend sans arrêt, parfois très raide, traverse de nombreux gués. Aucun hébergement hormis 2 ou 3 campings sommaires. Un 4x4 est nécessaire, même si nous n'avons presque jamais utilisé les fonctions "tous terrains". Un peu avant la sortie Est du parc, nous avons rencontré un couple de Sud-africains à bord d'une Renault Duster qui, comme nous venait de Willowmore (enchantés de leur voiture, il y a de quoi). Les paysages sont somptueux (formations rocheuses étonnantes), la végétation exubérante et la faune présente un peu partout mais pas facile à débusquer, photographiquement parlant. Si il n'y avait pas ce mauvais chemin, on pourrait facilement s'imaginer à l'aube du temps !
C'est un de mes coups de cœur en RSA, tout comme le Cederberg, Mountain Zebra, Kgalagadi et beaucoup d'autres, dont Rhodes.
Cette année notre parcours comprenait Tout ce que tu décris (la pass Knysna Uniondale, Willowmore, Baviaans, MZ et Camdebo)...
Je confirme tout ce que tu écris même si pour moi la pass de Baviaans après Studtis (donc la réserve) était plus difficile ... je ne suis pas un très bon driver en 4x4 !
Il me reste donc à traîner mes guêtres du côté de Rhodes Matatiele etc...
Je pense que je ne passerais pas par Coffee Bay après le Moutain Zebra NP.
L'option Rhodes est séduisante mais nous aurons peu de temps pour....prendre le temps dans le secteur.
Penses-tu que cela vaille le coup de passer par Rhodes pour rejoindre le Drakensberg en dormant une seule nuit sur place. En gros profiter des paysages le long de la route mais pas plus.
Si tu es à Mountain Zebra NP avant de te rendre dans le Drakensberg, la route la plus courte pour te rendre à Underberg, à l'Est du Massif, est grosso-modo la suivante, si tu souhaites allier conduite et paysage, ce que je privilégie toujours ou presque :
- Cradodock à Queenstown par la R61 (paysages agréables sans plus). Grande gare où dorment de nombreuses vieilles locos à vapeur pour les amateurs de train. Peut-être n'y sont-elles plus aujourd'hui ? 1 h 45 environ.
- Queenstown à Dordrecht par la R392 (paysages agréables). à peine 1 h 00.
- De Dordrecht à Barkly-East via Rossouw par R396 et R58 (tu approches de la haute montagne). 1 h 30.
- Barkly-East à Moshesh's Ford toujours sur la R393 (très beaux paysages avec les hautes montagnes en toile de fond, parfois enneigées). 0 h 30.
- Moshesh's Ford à Rhodes par R396 (idem ci-dessus). Bar très sympa, restaurant et chambres au Walkerbouts. Logement très agréable mais simple à Kinmel Farm. 0 h 45.
- Rhodes à Mount-Fletcher via Naudesnek par R366 puis R56 (magnifiques paysages et col impressionnant mais sans difficulté exceptés les jours de neige (sauf peut-être avec une cacahuète), la ville de Mount-Fletcher n'est pas très accueillante. 2 h 00.
- Mount-Fletcher à Mataliele par R56 (ville importante où tu trouveras tout). 0 h 45/1 h 00.
- Mataliele à Swartberg par R56 et R394 (tu as toujours le Drakensberg sur ta gauche). 1 h 00.
- Swartberg à Underberg par R617. 1 h 00. Là, tu n'es pas loin de Sani Pass et du Lesotho.
Temps approximatifs sans arrêts, qui risquent d'être nombreux.
Deux roues de secours : une bonne précaution ici et ailleurs.
L'étape Mountain Zebra NP/Rhodes est assez longue, comporte quelques tronçons à appréhender avec précaution. Nous l'avons parcourue en minibus, une première fois et en 4x4, une seconde fois. Il faut donc partir de bonne heure pour être à Rhodes avant la nuit. Ce charmant village est la plus belle étape du parcours. On peut se balader librement un peu partout, surtout le long de la rivière Bell ou monter à la station de ski de Tiffindel à la frontière du Lesotho à 3001 m, mais attention la pente est redoutable, nous y sommes montés plus facilement une première fois avec une Ford Focus qu'une seconde avec un 4x4.
Attention, il n'est pas facile de se loger à Rhodes pendant la saison du ski et ça caille le soir, la nuit et le matin, parfois la journée. Pas d'essence dans le village, du moins en 2016.
A Queenstown, tu peux aussi rejoindre Mthatha par la N6 et la R61 puis remonter à Underberg via Kokstad par N2 et R617. Itinéraire plus court, plus rapide et plus confortable mais beaucoup moins attrayant, parfois désagréable.
A Queenstown, tu peux enfin emprunter les R396 et 393 par Lady Frere, Elliot, Barkly-Pass et retrouver Moshesh's Ford. Cet itinéraire est pas mal, lui aussi.
Prince Alfred's Pass est un très long col, d'abord goudronné mais principalement en terre. Les paysages traversés sont très spectaculaires. Nous l'avons prise, il y a très longtemps avec une Ford (pas une Fiesta, cependant). Si tu veux te donner une idée de la route, va sur le site "Mountain Passes of South Africa". Là, tu pourras visionner une vidéo complète de la montée. Il en est de même pour tous les autres cols d'Afrique du Sud. Le site est très bien fait, les commentaires, très compréhensibles, sont parfois légèrement exagérés (à la Nicolas Hulot, à l'époque où il nous faisait rêver). Comme par exemple l'accès à Die Hell dans le Groot Swartberge : après visionnage, tu te demandes si tu vas y aller et lorsque tu y es, tu constates que ça passe..... avec quelques frayeurs cependant : à couper le souffle !
Je suis surpris que Google indique une autre route, celle-ci étant la plus courte, et de loin si tu es à Knysna et que tu te rends à Graaff-Reinet. Si tu vas directement à MZ, la route est différente, là tu suis la N2 jusqu'à Port-Elizabeth et tu remontes la N10 jusqu'à Cradock (c'est moins attrayant).
Je ne savais pas que le forum avait une option GPS !! 🙂
Merci beaucoup pour ces informations exhaustives.
Le chemin est long du MZ NP jusqu'au Drankensberg, alors autant passer par des endroits agréables aux beaux paysages!
Qui plus est, l'hébergement et le ravitaillement sont à prendre en considération, alors encore merci pour tous ces détails.
J'ai jeté un oeil au site "Mountain Passes of South Africa" sans regarder les vidéos pour l'instant, ça a l'air très utile comme site. Je suppose que les conditions climatiques sur le route doivent avoir un impact important sur la praticabilité du terrain.
Je ne sais pas si fin mars est très arrosé, mais si la roue est sèche j'aime à penser que ça doit pouvoir passer relativement bien.
Etant une voyageuse très expérimentée en ce qui concerne l'Afrique du sud, je pense que tu as dû louer un véhicule à de nombreuses reprises.
Je viens moi-même de réserver un véhicule group B genre ford figo pour 25 jours en Mars/Avril 2018 sur Around about cars. D'après le mail que j'ai reçu, la location se fait en réalité auprès de Tempest.
Il y a un élément que je ne comprends pas bien: le terme " Excess International"
Comme tu peux le voir ci-dessous il s'élève à 5000 Rands.
Sait-tu à quoi correspond exactement cette somme? une caution? Une franchise?
Le prix réel tout compris de la location (si pas de pépins) est bien de 6325 Rands? Ou dois-je ajouter ses 5000 Rands ce qui n'est plus du tout la même chose...
Cover Type: Standard CoverTotal Days: 25 DaysDaily Rate: R 234Total Price: R 6325Excess International: R 5000
Les 5000 correspondent au montant de la caution qui sera soit débitée de ta carte bancaire pour être recreditee au retour du véhicule soit juste bloquée sur ladite carte.
Je profite aussi de l'occasion pour te poser une autre question, cette fois-ci au sujet du trajet Mountain Zebra NP jusqu'au Golden Gate Highlands NP.
J'ai vu sur le forum que tu cherchais voilà presque deux ans une étape entre ses deux NP car la distance te semblait trop longue pour être réalisée en une journée.
J'ai l'intention moi aussi de faire ce trajet, donc je me demande quelle option tu as choisi finalement: étape ou direct?
Grâce aux questions/réponses et conseils avisés de nombreux forumeurs et plus particulièrement Michel, Attila, Jacky et Orpan, je pense que notre itinéraire de 26 jours en Afrique du sud commence à être bien ficelé.
Le voici:
J1: Vol Joburg - Le Cap
J2: Le Cap
J3: Le Cap
J4: Le Cap
J5: Route pour Oudtshoorn via Prince Albert et le swartberg pass si route ouverte!
J6: Route pour le Moutain Zebra NP via Camdeboo NP et Valley of desolation. Nuit Camping MZNP rest camp
J7: Moutain Zebra NP. Nuit Camping MZNP rest camp
J8: Route pour le Golden Gate Highlands NP.....longue route, arrêt à Ladybrand si trop long. Nuit camping Glen reenen rest camp ou Ladybrand?
J9: Golden Gate Highlands NP. Nuit camping Glen reenen rest camp
J10: Golden Gate Highlands NP. Nuit camping Glen reenen rest camp
J11: Royal Natal NP: Sentinel hiking trail, chain ladder walk. Nuit Mahai camping
J12: Royal Natal NP: Tugela Falls trail. Nuit Mahai camping
J13: Cathedral peak. Nuit Didima camp
J14: Route pour Sainte-Lucie. Nuit Monzi safaris Backpakers
J15: Isimangaliso. Nuit Monzi safaris Backpakers
J16: Isimangaliso. Nuit Monzi safaris Backpakers
J17: Route pour Ithala Game Reserve. Nuit camping?
J18: Ithala Game reserve. Nuit camping?
J19: Route pour Swaziland et visite Milwane WS. Nuit?
J20: Mkhaya Game reserve 10h-10h
J21: Route pour Kruger NP - Shukuza rest camp
J22: Kruger NP - Shukuza rest camp
J23: Kruger NP - Tamboti satellite Tented camp
J24: Kruger NP - Olifants rest camp
J25: Sortie du Kruger par Phalaborwa gate et route pour Graskop. Nuit?
J26: Passage éclair aux Bourke's Luck Potholes puis route aéroport et vol retour pour la France.
Nous avons réservé nos nuits à Sainte-Lucie et au Kruger NP uniquement pour l'instant.
Nous aurions aimé d'autres camps au Kruger mais tout est déjà plein.
Toujours quelques questions en suspens:
Pensez-vous nécessaire de réserver les nuits en camping au Moutain Zebra NP, Golden Gate Highlands NP, Royal Natal NP, Didima Camp et Ithala Game reserve sachant que nous serons dans ces parcs entre le 20 mars et le 2 avril?
Trouvez-vous cohérent le parcours, enlèveriez-vous un jour par ci pour le mettre par là? Remplacer ou raccourcir une étape pour aller à Imfolozi par exemple?
Nous hésitons pour le logement au Cap, les tarifs sont plutôt élevés du côté de Camps Bay et l'offre se réduit rapidement avec les jours qui passent. Quels autres quartiers privilégeriez-vous?
Merci pour cette réponse rapide. J'ai jeté un oeil sur airbnb, c'est vrai qu'il y a pas mal d'annonces pas trop chères. Le problème est que ne connaissant pas les lieux, il est difficile de connaître l'environnement du logement....facilité d'accés, quartier sûr etc....
Peut-être as-tu déjà loué au Cap via airbnb, une adresse à recommander?
J'ai bien loué à Camps Bay sur Airbnb mais ne peux pas encore recommander... j'y vais fin juillet 😉!
en lisant un peu les appréciations des clients précédents et en regardant sur une gmap la situation des apparts, on peut se faire une assez bonne idée je trouve. Je peux te donner l'adresse qu'on a retenue en MP si tu veux.
J8: Route pour le Golden Gate Highlands NP.....longue route, arrêt à Ladybrand si trop long. Nuit camping Glen reenen rest camp ou Ladybrand?
J9: Golden Gate Highlands NP. Nuit camping Glen reenen rest camp
J10: Golden Gate Highlands NP. Nuit camping Glen reenen rest camp
Ladybrand.
C'est long la route !
Et après 3 nuits à Golden Gate NP, ça fait beaucoup.
Je casserais vraiment la tirelire pour dormir une nuit au Mountain Highland retreat.
Nous aurions aimé d'autres camps au Kruger mais tout est déjà plein.
Ça peut changer . Il faut regarder régulièrement le site et modifier dès que quelque chose se libère.
Pensez-vous nécessaire de réserver les nuits en camping au Moutain Zebra NP, Golden Gate Highlands NP, Royal Natal NP, Didima Camp et Ithala Game reserve sachant que nous serons dans ces parcs entre le 20 mars et le 2 avril?
En camping, je ne pense pas.
Mais regarder régulièrement le remplissage au cas où, ça peut éviter de mauvaises surprises.
Pour Mountain Highland, si tu te décides à y aller, je réserverai maintenant.
Remplacer ou raccourcir une étape pour aller à Imfolozi par exemple?
Une nuit en moins au Golden Gate et une à Imfolozi au camp de Mpila.
Bonjour,
Airbnb ?
Tu regardes et tu nous demandes ?
A priori vu la configuration de Camps bay...il ne doit guère y avoir de souci.
Montagnard 74 pourrait être de bon conseil.
Et après 3 nuits à Golden Gate NP, ça fait beaucoup.
Je casserais vraiment la tirelire pour dormir une nuit au Mountain Highland retreat.
Nous ne comptions pas passer trois nuits au Golden Gate NP, tout dépend jusqu'où nous arriverons à la fin de la journée de route: Ladybrand ou Glen reenen camp
Je pense qu'une journée entière dans le parc doit être déjà pas mal. Tu as raison, c'est certainement là que nous pouvons gagner une journée à transférer à Imfolozi.
En ce qui concerne le "Mountain Highland retreat", Est-ce le lodge à flanc de montagne que l'on voit dans ton carnet " il était une fois au Karoo".....C'est vrai que ça a l'air splendide!
Mais 1500 Rands quand-même...et on a cassé la tirelire plusieurs fois déjà notamment pour Mkhaya 🙂
Bientôt le Golden Gate NP dans le glossaire? 😉
Pour les logements dans le Kruger, on va rester à l'affût mais ça se libère pas trop pour l'instant.
Je pense qu'une journée entière dans le parc doit être déjà pas mal.
Tu ne seras pas loin la veille et tu iras assez prêt le lendemain.
A moins de vouloir faire la randonnée la plus longue, une nuit sur place serait donc suffisante (une rando l'après midi et une autre le lendemain + les petites boucles en voiture)
Est-ce le lodge à flanc de montagne que l'on voit dans ton carnet " il était une fois au Karoo".....C'est vrai que ça a l'air splendide!
Oui 😛
La vue, l'accès, la possibilité d'aller sur le plateau juste au dessus...
Inoubliable.🙂
Mais 1500 Rands quand-même...et on a cassé la tirelire plusieurs fois déjà notamment pour Mkhaya 🙂
Je ne connais pas encore Mkhaya.
C'est pour bientôt .😉
mais ça se libère pas trop pour l'instant
40-30 jours avant.
A J-30 commencent les frais d'annulation, donc...
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?