In these post-COVID years, South Africa (SA) has drawn me back again...
The long-time forum members will say I'm a bit obsessed (I've now surpassed 20 trips to this country, including 2 in Namibia)...
But new readers can find my old travel journals and enjoy this new installment.
So, three new trips... each lasting a month... always too short.
I’ll try to be pragmatic.
Let’s start with the basics!
You can plan your trip from your couch with complete peace of mind.
Through any Booking site or directly (sometimes cheaper), I’ve never had any issues with my direct bookings—they’ve always matched what was promised.
For national parks outside KwaZulu-Natal (where it’s KZN Wildlife), use the SANparks website, or Nature Reserve for that type of "accommodation."
Air France, Lufthansa, or KLM... depending on the year and circumstances.
Most flights are overnight, allowing you to arrive early in Joburg and... leave this city I don’t much like as quickly as possible.
KLM offers a daytime flight to Cape Town... just arrange your first night’s stay.
You drive on the left in SA (you knew that, right?)... you get used to it.
Passport: must still be valid for 6 months with several blank pages...
Car rental?
A car is pretty much essential, whether for short or long trips. It’s safer too. Aside from the secure Gautrain in Joburg and Cape Town (CT from now on), I don’t take the train.
Except for the red bus drop-off/pick-up in CT, I don’t take the bus. In this specific case, it’s practical because you can access all of CT’s spots—including the famous Lion’s Head—without worrying about parking or traffic.
These past three years, I’ve chosen Around About Cars as my rental company. I’m very satisfied with them.
What kind of car?
It depends on what you’re doing and your budget. The vast majority of roads don’t require a special vehicle.
In a park, the "high ground clearance" of SUVs lets you see animals better and helps avoid potholes (the SA version—ostrich-sized), speed bumps (our "sleeping policemen" with a big belly), and tackle the last few kilometers or 100 meters that can be a bit rough with complete peace of mind.
Do your research.
For me, it’s 4x2 or 4x4 depending on...
South Africans drive fast... and I feel safer that way.
International driver’s permit? Legally required! Never asked for by a rental company, only once by the police—but I stood my ground, confident, and it went smoothly.
Road checks? Yes, often—at least two every time, but they’re relaxed...
Note that if a police officer wants to give you a fine, it must be done at the police station—insist on going there... they’ll usually drop it.
If they suggest paying on the spot in cash to "make things easier"... it’s just for their pocket. There’s a special "police alert" number—remind them of it!
The rand is the South African currency.
Nowadays, cards work in many places. But note: a car rental company will ask for a credit card, not a debit card.
Be careful: cash is no longer accepted in SANparks camps and other places (entrances, etc.)! It’s card only!
I always carry some cash. I order it from Yeschange (sounds dodgy, but it’s very reliable).
Phew...
What an introduction!
The route...
A loop:
Joburg
Dullstroom (one-night stop after the long journey, Crichtley Hackle Lodge, unbeatable value for money)
Graskop (Thaba Tsweni, right next to Berlin Falls)
Near Haertnesburg (Graceland) (a bit special)
Mapungubwe (Leokwe camp)
Shingwedzi
Letaba
Skukuza (return to civilization for our first-time travelers)
Berg en Dal (for the rhinos)
St Lucia (The Sandpiper GH, for iSimangaliso, the sea, hippos, crocs... and now elephants too—I love this place)
Drakensberg near Kamberg
back to Joburg
In March! (the other two in May... others before in September, October, and November)
Pros and cons of March.
It’s starting to get less hot but still warm. Not too busy a month (avoid South African school holidays because crowds and prices are at their peak). Flights aren’t at their highest.
But... dense vegetation makes it harder to spot animals (especially in the northern part... uh, actually, pretty much everywhere).
Might be very rainy with flooding, especially in KZN. More unpredictable weather.
No whales in St Lucia.
That year, it was in April–May that people were literally stuck in KNP and private reserves due to flooding... phew...
Crichtley Hackle Lodge... a little paradise with amazing chalets in Dullstroom on the way to Sabie via Lydenburg. Safe and beautiful road. Safe town. Safe accommodation too.
Eternal topic...
In over 20 years... no problems.
But...
I don’t travel with my head in the clouds...
I avoid dodgy places. How do I spot them? Well, when it seems deserted, sketchy, and a bit too chaotic, I avoid. Not the big cities (especially Joburg and Durban).
Not the big city hotels (those who leave big hotels are the ones with money, and thieves somehow know that).
Not after 5 PM in downtown areas, not Saturday nights, and not Sundays when everything’s closed and only the not-so-nice folks are around.
Not at night. Not on foot in the city.
Not with a camera hanging around my neck (my camera’s in a crappy bag on my shoulder) and lots of rings on my fingers and a Vuitton...
Not with a "I’m a tourist" guidebook in hand.
So I dress like a local. Badly and simply.
With a few rands in a pocket... just in case I need to hand them over.
Never resist.
In an enclosed park, you’re safe.
Do a little research. Read up on the safety of the place.
Car doors stay locked. Don’t leave anything tempting visible.
And stay relaxed!!!!!
Basic rule.
Just to remind you: no issues in over 20 years!
Hitchhiking? Well, I don’t do it in France already... Happened to me once in Swaziland. Not really my thing...
Anecdotes...
Swaziland = Eswatini.
The king, a bit eccentric... one day decided to change the name from Swaziland to Eswatini... because people kept confusing his country...
We did indeed meet plenty of people in Manzini, at the airport... thinking they were in Switzerland...
The gas station... and the shops
In a small town, you can still see remnants of the cursed era.
The neat entrance with neat little houses, the neat church, the neat store... very white...
The other entrance... well, less neat... much livelier and more animated, and very Black...
Same for the gas station... neat? That’s the white station. Less neat and very lively? That’s the Black station.
Same for the shops... Spar or Pick n Pay, usually in the countryside...
Most often, the Spar is more white, and the Pick n Pay is more Black... but it can also be the other way around.
That said... it was at the "Black" station that a kind driver came to warn me my tire was underinflated...
And often, we’ve shopped at stores where "white people weren’t common," and no one ate us alive! On the contrary. We got the receipt check like everyone else...
Another anecdote.
Louis Trichardt (a town in Limpopo, a Black town... not racism, it’s a fact... in Louis Trichardt, 90% of the people are Black)
Discovered a big, new shopping mall with lots of shops, etc., etc...
Clearly, most people coming to shop there were "dressed to the nines"...
We were among the worst-dressed...
We went to Nando’s for lunch (it’s the South African fast food, mostly Black clientele, with Indian-style chicken, etc.)...
Only white people there. A young Black guy approached us:
"Are you French?"
"You can tell by the way you dress!"!!!!!
Ah, French charm!
Anyway, I recommend it—you eat well and feel like you’re really in the country.
So after a restful night in Dullstroom, we set off for the Panorama Route.
It’s the little Drakensberg. It’s beautiful, it’s touristy.
It’s definitely not my first time here, but we were bringing people along...
By the way, doing the "Three Rondavels from below" by boat on the lake isn’t a bad idea...
On the road
Long Tom Pass cannon
Mac Mac Falls
The Pinnacle
Lisbon Falls
A view of the canyon
Another one
Bourke's Potholes
Same spot
Three Rondavels
Along the Panorama Route (which can be foggy), the different attractions and viewpoints follow one after another...
A full day—great day—works well. Roughly from Sabie to Hoedspruit via Graskop.
Stayed at Thaba Tsweni in Graskop—really nice. Dinner in Graskop at a very South African Boer restaurant with crocodile kebab!
(You eat simply, well, and cheaply in South Africa unless you choose otherwise. The wine is great, just like the beer.)
The tip at the restaurant and elsewhere... for the ranger, guides, etc.
It’s very much like the US—almost everyone in service jobs relies heavily on tips, with very few exceptions.
If you’re happy, 10% or better yet 15%.
With the current rand value... honestly, it’s not expensive at all.
Fun anecdote...
When we were in that area, we saw loads of planes, including some really old WWI-style ones... helicopters too...
What’s that about?
Tom Cruise was filming a clip for the latest *Top Gun* promo...
The Berlin Falls... just next to where we were staying, so we walked there at dawn...
Over 10 years ago (well, more like 15 now), we stayed in the forest near Tzaneen.
A place lost in the woods.
Unfortunately, the spot was abandoned, and part of that forest was looted...
So, I ended up choosing a much more luxurious place just across the road.
Meals (good ones) on-site. Chalets (small cabins), a beautiful view, and several hectares with two giraffes.
Okay, it’s not the bush.
What’s the appeal? Well, visiting Haertnesburg, the Denbengeni Falls (careful—it’s super slippery, and like in many spots like this, there are memorial plaques reminding you that someone died there...).
And relaxing, taking a little morning walk...
The access road we took wasn’t the easiest but the shortest... the advantage when you know the way...
A bit sad to see how much forest was cleared for avocado farming. Since then, I’ve cut back on my consumption...
The accommodation: Graceland eco retreat
One little note though... the wall decor with lots of "artistic" but pretty realistic paintings illustrating male virility...
Good evening,
For the Drakensberg, you’ll need to wait a bit.
But since we’ve kinda hijacked your post:
For me, roughly speaking, there are 4 parts:
Golden Gate, which is part of Sanparks.
It’s not amazing, but it has easy and difficult hikes.
Tons of antelopes.
Incredible views from the highest accommodation.
It’s not too far.
The central area:
Giants Castle, the Champagne Valley with lots of accommodation and tons to do.
The Didima section—the camp has a stunning view, but even the smallest climb is tough.
Further down, the Kamberg area.
Still beautiful, with easy hikes, but fewer places to stay. Two years ago, the roads were terrible and ruined everything.
The south, near the Sani Pass:
A really beautiful spot, but you’ll need to "do" the Sani.
Between Golden Gate and Champagne Valley:
Royal Natal and its upper camp, which is gorgeous in a stunning location.
Just be aware—it’s cold from mid-May to late September.
We had nice weather in early May, but it was still chilly.
Freezing in September.
This year, there was a lot of snow until the end of September—exceptionally so.
Given your starting details, I’m not sure it’s a great idea.
Very different from the Panorama Road, which is open to all ages.
And it’s quite remote.
South of the Golden Gate
It’s KZN Wildlife for the booking site
KZN still maintains a certain autonomy
The remnants of ’94 and Buthelezi…
But that’s another story
Hi Michel,
I’m taking off after really enjoying your two introductory posts!!
What stood out to us on South African roads is that people drive *very* fast, but they respect other users. The person overtaking always makes sure to let the faster car pass, even if there’s a solid line...
After this break and this gentle introduction to South Africa, next stop: Mapungubwe.
This makes it three times I’ve stayed there—twice at Leokwe Camp.
Mapungubwe is a large transfrontier park bordered by the Limpopo River, which separates Zimbabwe from South Africa.
The eastern part is separate from the western part.
It’s very mineral-rich but offers plenty of wildlife-spotting opportunities...
The terrain is rocky, and the landscapes are stunning. It’s best to have a car with thick tires.
Giraffes, zebras, kudus, wildebeest, oryx, and elephants (lots of them).
It can get scorching hot during the day and freezing cold at night.
March and May are the best times to visit...
Hi Michel, and congrats on firing up the travel journal again!
Such a great memory—the Mapungubwe Park. We were there last September, as you can see at 3:02 in our video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UoR-FH0NSE&t=42s
Plus, this park is the gateway to the stunning Mashatu Park in Botswana. It’s probably one of the most beautiful wildlife parks we’ve ever visited.
Looking forward to reading more from you, Michel!
Loïc
The eastern part is supposedly not really home to big cats (no lions)... Normally, at least.
In this area, you can get out of the car and do a bit of walking, especially to settle on the heights overlooking the meeting point of the Limpopo and its tributary.
"Uh, we're walking outside the car on this rocky path... what if there was a lion?"
"Meh... here, the chance of running into a lion is really low, and we're in daylight, in a small group. Seriously, the risk is... low."
"Okay, if you say so, but what if there was an elephant?"
"Meh, you know, elephants don’t like climbing—they’ve got too many rocks underfoot. The chance of stumbling upon one is really low. And if it happens, don’t worry, I’m here. Just do what I do. Stay a little closer to me, though."
Rocky
Promontory
So the game in the evening, at sunset, is to come here for a drink....
Then comes nighttime...
The large outdoor terrace overlooks the ground slightly.
So you dine peacefully... perfect braai.
An elephant doesn’t make a sound. The elephant patrol in *Mowgli* is nonsense—they’re totally discreet.
You hear them when they eat or move through branches... obviously if they trumpet...
So, in the evening, suddenly I hear a little something.
A big something... the whole group passes right by the edge of the terrace, circles the chalets...
No photos (no flash), but a magical moment.
Proof?
The tracks the next morning surrounding our chalet...
They pass along the west side of the camp and then climb up the rocks.
With a thousand precautions, I retraced the same path...
Early morning, we set off as planned for the depths of the park (still the eastern part, not the western section where the lions are...)
Then, a South African couple points out leopards on the first big rock formation just outside the camp.
Turns out, it’s a mother with two cubs. We’ll search for them, watch them, and follow them for an hour.
Watch out for the season—it can get chilly or scorching hot...
Fewer animals than in Kruger National Park, obviously, but with a bit of luck...
you might spot leopards or even lions (in the West).
Elephants, buffaloes, antelopes, and others are a sure thing.
Leokwe = awesome camp.
Alright, I’ll stop with the photos of this place I love so much.
Next time, I’ll try the Western part.
You already knew it was Mapungubwe in March 2022 and May 2023.
From there, full west to Kruger National Park (KNP). You’ll need to plan a full day, especially since our destination was Shingwedzi.
The road isn’t too bad... let’s just say it’s much better now.
In the area, Alldays—where over 15 years ago we simply had lunch and crossed paths with a touching couple of (white) farmers at their Sunday midday restaurant (you’ll have to check my old travel journals for that).
Alldays has grown...
Same for Musina, which seems less worried about Zimbabwe’s collapse.
In both places, you can eat and stock up on supplies.
Musina is a lively Black town, but no issues for us.
So, Pafuri Gate all the way north.
In March, the vegetation is *super* dense, and visibility is very limited. It’s a bit better in May.
For Kruger, which I explored in 2022 and 2023 from North to South and South to North, then in 2024 from Orpen to the North...
I’ll skip some details and share my impressions in no particular order.
From Pafuri to Shingwedzi
The North is stunning...
A few photos
Sirheni Camp: a small camp with a few chalets. No facilities, but the chalets are super well-equipped and open directly onto the bush.
Remote spot with LOOOOTS of elephants... and plenty of other wildlife thanks to the river.
Just a heads-up—the "lake" mentioned on the SAN Parks website dried up years ago...
South Africans love to poke fun at Americans from the US
Who wonder if South Africa is civilized, who are afraid of their own shadow...
At Shingwedzi, in front of the board listing the day’s sightings, I overhear a conversation between a guide and his American clients. You can spot them by their accent and outfits.
"Well, yes, we’ll be in Pafuri tonight, but we need to hurry a bit," says the guide.
"Why don’t we just get a helicopter?" replies his client.
For a moment, I catch the guide’s eye—the sheer disbelief and despair in his gaze...
"Well, we won’t see the animals from a helicopter," the guide explains.
"Call Eurocopter!"
I didn’t stick around for the rest, but I’ll remember that idea.
Second anecdote:
I come out of the restroom, and a slightly younger man approaches me, speaking French.
"So, how’s your vacation going?"
"Great, just like usual."
"Ooooh, but you’re *the* famous Frenchman!"
"The… famous Frenchman?"
"Oh yes, you’re the famous Frenchman who’s been coming to South Africa for years!"
"Uh…"
"And you’re *so* good at braai!"
"Uh…"
That’s when he stopped grilling me... Turns out he’d met some South Africans we’d chatted with at a previous camp, and they’d told him about me...
What stunning photos! Wow!
What camera lens are you using? Is a 400mm zoom enough?
For birdwatching, is Shingwezdi a good rest camp?
Thanks for these amazing shots!!!
Regarding Kruger, I can only recommend the Map and Guide booklets as a first purchase.
In my opinion, they're essential as a map of the area.
They also include estimated travel times between camps and between camps and the various gates.
Remember that after the closing time, it's too late, and you must be inside a camp by the time it closes—closing times vary by season. You risk reprimands and fines.
You won’t be allowed to leave until opening time.
For the camps:
5:30 AM - 6:00 PM in October and March
4:30 AM - 6:30 PM from November to January
6:00 AM - 6:00 PM in April, August, and September
6:00 AM - 5:30 PM in May, June, and July
For the gates:
5:30 AM - 6:30 PM from November to February
5:30 AM - 6:00 PM in October and March
6:00 AM - 6:00 PM in April, August, and September
6:00 AM - 5:30 PM in May, June, and July
5:30 AM from October to March. 6:30 PM closing.
Golden hour!
The first and last hour of the day. That’s when the predators head out or return... or feast, come to drink.
The intense midday heat means everyone’s in off mode. Except for exceptions, of course.
On the maps, you’ll find suggested routes with estimated travel times.
The gates:
From north to south:
Pafuri, Punda Maria, Phalaborwa (pronounced Falaborwa), Orpen, Paul Krüger, Phabeni, Numbi, Malelane, Crocodile Bridge (which may be closed in case of flooding).
For the Main camps (camp +/- restaurant +/- laundry, +/- pool...), check the SANparks website:
Punda Maria, Shingwedzi, Mopani, Letaba, Olifants, Satara, then the southern part with Skukuza (a huge, very "urban" camp—some love the return to city life, especially since it’s a great spot for leopards), Lower Sabie, Pretoriuskop, Berg-en-Dal, Malelane, Crocodile Bridge).
Personally, I haven’t been to all of them...
Punda Maria: the gate has been redone, but the camp doesn’t inspire me.
I love Shingwedzi, Mopani is great for its views and surroundings, Olifants also has a magnificent view, Letaba (for me, an old-school camp but its surroundings are ++), Satara (a camp famous for predators, as is Orpen—small and without a proper restaurant), Berg-en-Dal (very nice and the rhino area), Lower Sabie (large and practical).
Malelane is on the edge, right on the KNP border... not really a "lost in the wild" vibe.
Lots of smaller camps, like Sirheni, which I really like... I don’t know the others.
On the maps... important... the rest stops! More or less spacious but always clean.
Oh, I remember Mrs. Attila made a detailed travel journal...
General idea (I don’t camp):
Game drive on your own (your car, basically). If you like it, you get up early, return in the morning, or head to the next camp and go out again around 3 PM for the evening drive.
In many places, you can book drives with park rangers or even game walks.
Nota bene...
Game walks: done with one or two armed rangers (not slingshots!) and a small group. You still need to be fit or at least not the slowest runner (the goal isn’t to outrun the lion but to not be the slowest).
The big camps are fenced... but... intruders can get in (rare but it happens), monkeys are often everywhere (to the point that locking the fridge and not leaving anything out must be an obsession)... and snakes exist!
In short, game walks...
You’re a ranger leading people into the bush (often novices)... Every day.
If you know lions are to the north... well, you go south!
Animal encounters are usually low-key... but it’s the atmosphere! !
In game walk or any other...
Rule 1: don’t run. Movement attracts movement.
Rule 2: group together in a block, make yourselves big by raising your arms, cap in hand.
Rule 3: depending on the situation... shout or stay still...
The most dangerous animal on foot is the buffalo. While the risk is almost zero in a car, on foot, it charges...
Anecdote:
In Mountain Zebra, tracking cheetahs with an antenna and a guide...
Very unique cheetahs that prefer mountains to plains.
The climb is tough. Buffaloes in the distance.
"No worries, they’re far away—lucky for us because we don’t have any trees to take refuge in; they’d come charging downhill."
On the way down, the buffaloes aren’t that far...
Ranger with a rifle leading the group, clapping regularly, throwing rocks into the bushes as a precaution, etc.
Anecdote:
An elephant that *really* charges.
It comes running (you guessed it, right?).
Head down, ears pinned back, trunk tucked under, tail raised (hard to spot the tail up).
Don’t move—but it’s not looking good.
Elephant trying to intimidate:
Ears spread out, trunk raised, head held high...
Don’t move!
Group together, raise your arms, strong and firm voice, don’t let your knees shake...
I’ll also add the Orpen satellite camp, Tambotti—a really superb tented camp with no restaurant. And Biyamiti, a small camp without a restaurant, halfway between Berg-en-Dal and Lower Sabie.
I once did a game walk, and the guide led us toward the lions we could hear. But as soon as they saw us, they bolted.
"Je suis africain, non pas parce que je suis né en Afrique, mais parce que l'Afrique est née en moi." Kwame Nkrumah.
"J'ai appris que le courage n'est pas l'absence de peur, mais la capacité de la vaincre." Nelson Mandela
Hi there,
I’m the kind of person who just presses the right button on the camera.
Telling you how it works is beyond my skills—
all I know is it’s got an insane built-in zoom.
Some of the photos were taken by a more pro buddy of mine,
and he edits them afterward.
My spots around Shingwedzi...
Nothing really new if you've got the famous booklet.
The green route with the S56 following the river and a bathroom break at Balalala.
An elephant digging a hole in the dry riverbed... And it finds water!
Super important for all the animals that also get to drink!
Stroke of luck!
Lions... 8, females and cubs...
Gorgeous spot, 3 cars, loads of lions, for ages...
And to think I almost did the loop the other way at first...
You hit the jackpot at a bend in the road or you miss everything!
Lions in the KNP...
I’m still super jealous when I see so many majestic lions on the roads and trails of Kruger on social media...
Personally, I’m kinda unlucky...
This year, these ones above and another one that was a bit fleeting
Watch out—there’s a trap with the location! 😅
