Après avoir préparer deux voyages au Japon et en Malaisie grâce aux ressources inépuisables de ce forum, je reviens pour la préparation d'un premier voyage en Afrique Australe pour moi et ma copine.
Nous partirions 5 semaines ce qui nous permettrait de faire pas mal de choses. Comme j'ai les yeux plus gros que le ventre et que les posts de Simba, Vinnylove et quelques autres m'ont terriblement donné envie, j'ai fait une première ébauche qui contient beaucoup de choses ... J'espère que vous pourrez m'éclairer ...
Le principe est le même que celui d'autres voyages que nous avons faits avec ma copine, à savoir que nous ne cherchons pas forcément à éviter les longues distances mais nous tenons une fois quelque part à prendre notre temps.
Voilà cette première ébauche (je met le nombre de nuits prévues à chaque fois, je préfère au nombre de jours) :
Arrivée à Johannesburg et départ de suite
Pilanesberg 3
Etape vers Upington 1
Kgalagadi 4
Augrabies 2
Springbok 1
Cederberg 1
Table Mountain 1
Hermanus 1
De Hoop 2
Tsitsikamma 2
Addo 2
Etape vers Drakensberg 1
Drakenseberg 3 (golden Gate et Royal Natal)
Hluhluwe Imofozi 3
St Lucia 2
Swaziland ou autre étape 1
Kruger 5
Blyde Canyon 1
Une nuit de sécurité pour la veille du départ
J'arrive à un total de 37 nuits sur place ... je ne sais pas trop si ça sera faisable mais avec un peu de chance peut-être ...
Je pense que le plus sage serait de lâcher le Kalahari et les Augrabies mais ça me fait trop mal au coeur ...
J'ai vu qu'il existait des liaisons intérieures en avion mais je trouve ça franchement excessif (rien trouvé à moins de 200 euros par personne) ... mais je me trompe peut-être
Bonjour,
N'étant partie que 2 semaines, je ne suis pas allée dans la région du Cap et j'ai pris un vol Joburg/Upington (effectivement aux alentours de 200€ AR par personne) mais je vous conseillerai de garder le Kgalagadi, personnellement, c'est mon meilleur souvenir de ce voyage (même si j'ai aussi beaucoup aimé le reste).
Je ne sais pas quand vous partez, mais pour les parcs (Kruger et Kgalagadi) il faut en général s'y prendre bien à l'avance pour les résas.
Bonne préparation
Muriel
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
En 15 jours, forcément , on n'a pas pu rester très longtemps. Après, tout dépend de vos centres d'intérêts; si vous êtes passionnés de photo animalière, plus on reste longtemps, mieux c'est!
Nous on est resté 1 nuit à Augrabies et 2 dans le KTP; 2 nuits à augrabies permettent de passer la journée entière dans le parc et pour le KTP, 3 ou 4 me semblent bien ( certaines pistes sont réservées aux 4x4, et seules les 2 routes principales et les 2 transversales sont possibles en berline).
A Hluhluwe Umfolozi (vraiment pas loin de Sta lucia) vous pouvez ne passer que 2 nuits si vous voulez récupérer du temps pour ailleurs (ce n'est que mon avis).
On était partis en Avril et il me semble que j'avais réservé environ 10 moi avant (et à certaines dates, certains camps étaient déjà complets): vous pouvez voir les dispo pour chaque camp sur le site de sanpark (enfin, pour le Kruger et le KTP, pas Hluhluwe)
Muriel
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Si vous le pouvez, ne supprimez pas l'étape d'Augrabies, le parc est superbe, on se croirait sur la planete Mars avec de l'eau. Les randonnées sont nombreuses et sauvages. Personnelement, j'y consacrerai 2 nuits mini.
Photos Augrabies falls
Carnet de route : augrabies falls
Nous avions aussi effectué un vol interne jo'burg/upington ca coute assez cher (370 e pour deux) mais ca permet de gagner du temps pour traverser le pays. Et j'ai bien aimé prendre ce petit avion à helices ou l'on peut voir vu du ciel toute l'AFS.
Pour le blyde river canyon, ce lieu est sympathique surtout si il n'y a pas de brume, j'y consacrerai 2 nuits pour profiter d'une journée entiere a visiter les alentours (chutes d'eau, randonnées, etc)
Photos Blyde River canyon
Bonne préparation !
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Si vous arrivez le matin, vous serez crevé (l'avion et une bonne nuit🤪). Le mieux est donc de prévoir la première nuit à 50/100 km de Johannesburg maxi.
Si vous arrivez le soir, dormir près de l'aéroport semble la meilleure solution.
Pilanesberg 3
J'y vais dans 2 mois. J'ai prévu 2 nuits + 2 nuits au Marakele qui n'est pas loin.
Etape vers Upington 1
Une bonne étape pour faire le plein de course avant le Kgalagadi !
Kgalagadi 4
J'aime beaucoup ce parc et 4 nuits me semblent un minimun...
Une mention spéciale pour le Kalahari tented camp....
Augrabies 2 Springbok 1 Cederberg 1
Je ne connais pas Augrabies. Par contre, je suis passée par Springbok et l'étape est inutile...
Vous pourrez rejoindre la région du Cederberg depuis Augrabies sans problèmes.
Table Mountain 1
1 nuit seulement au Cap, c'est vraiment trop peu...
3 nuits me semblent un minimum entre la visite de la ville, des vignobles, du Cap de bonne espérance et la montée à la montagne de la Table.
Hermanus 1 De Hoop 2 Tsitsikamma 2 Addo 2
Un coin de l'Afrique du Sud que je n'ai pas fréquenté. Je laisse donc mon tour...
Drakenseberg 3 (golden Gate et Royal Natal) 3 St Lucia 2
J'enlèverai une nuit à Hluhluwe (parc très intéressant mais assez petit) comme à Santa Lucia (un peu trop commerciale à mon goût)
Swaziland ou autre étape 1 Kruger 5 Blyde Canyon 1
Pour les animaux, la partie centre et sud est la plus fréquentée. Olifant offre un superbe point de vue .Lower Sabie aussi mais dans un genre différent.
Une nuit de sécurité pour la veille du départ
Pas la peine sauf si votre avion est le matin/midi.
Rejoindre l'aéroport depuis Blyde est très facile.
Sinon, je vous conseille également de réserver vos nuits dans les différents camps dès maintenant. Les places sont limitées voir très limitées (kgalagadi) même si vous choisissez de camper.
J'aurais également programmé ce circuit dans l'autre sens. Le Kruger est le parc le plus 'facile'. C'est peut-être mieux de commencer par lui...
Ne connaissant pas du tout la côte en Le Cap et Durban, j'aurais tendance à vous conseiller de la zapper au profit du Cap et de ses environs. Vous pourriez prendre l'avion entre ces 2 villes à un prix correct (plus de concurrence que sur le JNB Upington!!!)
Je pense que le plus sage serait de lâcher le Kalahari et les Augrabies mais ça me fait trop mal au coeur ...
Surtout pas
- A votre place je passerais en Namibie à Rietfontein, Nakop ou Onseepkans pour aller visiter le Fish River Canyon 2 nuits suffisent
Vous repassez en Afrique du sud a sendelingsdrif par le ponton et vous visitez le Richtersveld National Park et ensuite vous rejoignez Le Cap en suivant la cote jusqu'à Velddrif c’est de la piste mais un parcours magnifique hors des sentiers battus.
-Hluhluwe Umfolozi 1 nuit à Mpila 1 nuit à Hiltop
- 1 nuit a De Hoop suffit
- Vous regretterez de ne pas passer plus de temps à Cape Town
Merci pour ces premières réponses ... Je vais effectivement faire quelques changements pour profiter un peu plus de certains endroits (notamment le Cap).
J'aimerai savoir si certains d'entre vous pouvaient me dire le modèle de voiture qu'ils ont loué et ce qu'ils en ont pensé. Je pensais louer une berline mais j'ai peur que l'on soit très bas pour l'observation des animaux ...
Concernant la météo, est-ce que l'hiver dans le Drakensberg peut poser problème pour faire de la randonnée ?
Nous avions loué une Toyota Corolla, très largement suffisante pour 2 en taille (le coffre aussi) et en confort sur route.
Par contre, on a un peu regretté dans le Kgalagadi: la piste vers Nossob est située légèrement en contrebas, du coup, on ne voyait pas grand chose (herbes assez hautes en plus en Avril) et pas mal de "tôle ondulée" pas très confortable (mais là, je ne sais pas si c'est mieux en 4x4!).
Après, la différence de prix est assez conséquente, donc à vous de voir!
Muriel
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Pour la voiture, c'etait une Fiat palio, petit mais costaud !
Plus de 13000 km en afrique australe. c'est sur c'est pas le confort d'un 4x4 mais ca passe, on etait jeunes.
Le prix est aussi different, c'est surtout pour ce parametre que l'on prend une berline.
En sachant qu'en AFS, les routes sont tres bonnes, vous serez bien.
Dans le Kruger, ca nous a pas géné question hauteur.
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
Premier + deuxième voyage : l'increvable chico (une sorte de golf) . Très bien pour les parcs car rustique! Pas très confortable tout de même.
Troisième voyage : Nissan Tiida. A bien resisté au Kgalagadi et aux pistes namibiennes. Un peu plus cher.
Quatrième voyage : une marque américaine . Pas de problème non plus.
Le prochaine : je vais essayer le Daihatsu Térios un faux 4X4 qui a l'avantage d'être haut sur patte mais qui ne pourra pas être utilisé comme un vrai tout terrain (genre jeep ou landrover)
Entre la Chico et le Térios, on passe de 20 à 45 € par jour.
Un vrai 4X4 est aux alentours de 90€.
Attention, les modèles cat A B et C sont bien pour 2 personnes mais pas plus ! (clio) Avec la glacière, l'eau, la nourriture et les bagages (voir le matériel de camping), le coffre et les sièges arrières sont occupés !
Merci pour les précisions.
On a déjà testé l'encombrement de la voiture dans l'Ouest aux US avec la glacière en coffre et le barbecue portable sur les siège arrière ... Donc je sais qu'il faut pas trop tenter les Kia Picanto pour ce genre de trip.
La Nissa Tiida me paraît effectivement pas mal. Sinon, ça sera une Chevrolet Aeon Sedan en automatique ... 1000 euros pour 38 jours.
Pour passer à du SUV genre Terios on passe déjà à 1500 euros.
Sinon, quelqu'un sait si le Namaqua et sa région sont en fleurs vers fin juillet ou c'est encore trop tôt ?
Bonjour,
Nous avions réservé une volkswagen 1er prix, mais comme le loueur local n'en avait plus quand nous sommes arrivés, il nous a surclassé. On s'est retrouvé avec un coupé chinois très joli (sièges en cuir etc...) mais plutôt bas. On était un peu inquiets pour les pistes, mais c'est passé sans problème, y compris dans les parcs.
Si vous allez au Kruger en hiver, il n'y a pas de problème particulier à être assez bas dans la mesure où les herbes sont basses elles aussi. Nous cela ne nous a pas dérangé.
Nous avons fait de la rando dans le Drakensberg en hiver : pas de problème. Un peu froid (mais c'est normal en hiver à la montagne !) : Le Sani pass : en voiture jusqu'à la frontière sud africaine (ça passe bien en berline -contrairement à ce que nous avait dit notre backpacker !- à condition d'aller doucement et de ne pas avoir peur des pistes bien défoncées) puis à pied jusqu'en haut. Il y avait de la glace (et même des cascades de glace) sur la piste juste avant le Sani pass, mais pas de problème puisqu'on était à pied !
Plus au nord, nous avons fait Cathedral Pic. Très beau et aucun problème du à l'hiver. Il faut juste être bien couvert. Comme c'était hors saison, on était tout seul dans la montagne. C'était magique. Attention aux babouins rencontrés de près (un grand moment de stress et de bonheur) et au manque d'indication pour trouver le bon chemin (pour trouver une carte, il faut l'acheter à l'hôtel de luxe près des départs de rando).
En espérant que ces infos vous soient utiles.
Bon voyage, ce pays magnifique et le Drakensberg a été un des meilleurs moments de notre périple !
Bonjour,
Bien que j'arrive un peu tard dans cette discussion, voici quelques infos supplémentaires suite à 4 semaines passées là-bas de mi-oct à mi-nov (7800km + un vol CapeTown-Durban).
D'abord une question générale: vous ne parlez pas des hébergements, comptez-vous faire du camping ou choisir des backpackers ou petits hôtels ou B&B?
Dans tous les cas, notamment dans les arcs il est recommandé de réserver à l'avance (même les emplacements de camping).
Pour le véhicule, il y a 3 ans on avait une Tiida, c'était bien, cette année une chevrolet Optra (un peu plus grand car on allait se retrouver à 4 à un moment). C'est très bien, y compris dans le Kgalagadi (il n'y a qu'une petite portion de la piste qui est bordée de talus un peu hauts). C'est vrai que le Térios serait pas mal. En sept, avant notre départ j'avais une proposition d'Autoescape intéressante, mais elle n'a duré que très peu de temps. Cette fois-ci j'ai loué avec Budget (budget.fr) pour la partie Johannesburg-Le Cap, et Autoescape pour la partie Durban-Johannesburg (ils proposaient un véhicule ne proposaient plus ni budget.fr, ni buget.co.za). Au moment où j'ai cherché, c'étaient les meilleures offres. Attention aux cautions, complètement énormes que prennent certains loueurs.
Concernant l'itinéraire, voici mes commentaires:
Pilanesberg: prévoir une bonne 1/2 journée de route entre l'aéroport et le Pilanesberg. Contrairement à ce qu'on nous avait indiqué, ne sortez pas de l'autoroute ( à péage, mais montants modiques, il faut simplmeent avoir du cash) à Rustenburg, mais continuez 6 à 8 km pour prendre la sortie vers Boshoek. Les embranchements avec l'autoroute sont tout neufs.
Pour dormir nous avions choisi un B&B à Mogwase, mais je ne le vous recommanderai pas. Il y en a d'autres, sinon le camp de Manyane est très sympa (avec piscine). Passez 2 jours dans le parc, allez dans le sud du parc.
Upington: si je comprends bien vous voulez faire le trajet Pilanesberg-Upington en une journée, soit 800km. Ce n'est aps raisonnable, d'autant qu'il y a pas mal de travaux sur la route et bien sûr comme partout beaucoup de camions. De plus c'est une route très monotone, des lignes droites de 50km et plus sur un terrain plat, plat, plat. Une bonne adresse à Upington: Affinity Guest House.
Kgalagadi: à ne pas manquer, mais réservez vite car les hébergements sont très limités. Et suivez les recommandations de dégonflage des pneus: 1,6 kg, ça passe mieux dans le sable et ça détériore moins les pistes.
Augrabies: vaut le détour, paysage effectivement lunaire, ou martien comme qqu'un l'a dit.
Springbok: ville étape, y a rien à y faire. On ne s'y est arrêté que pour faire le plein et qq courses, et on a dormi 15-20km au sud au Namaqua Game Lodge. On y était seul et bien reçu, et en plus on peut se balader dans leur propriété de 5000 ha (mais les oryx, springbok et zèbres sont très sauvages, on ne les a vu que de loin).
Cederberg: on y a fait qu'une petite incursion à partir de Clanwilliam pour aller visiter le Sevilla Trail, ponctué de peintures rupestres sur des rochers. Intéressant. Nous fîmes halte à Citrusdal au Olifantsrus Guest Farm (tenu par une française), à ne pas confondre avec le Olifantsrus Guest House. C'est au milieu des champs d'orangers, à une dizaine de km de Citrusdal, et son mari tient un bon resto en ville.
Table Mountain: bien sûr, mais prévoyez de passer du temps en ville, Cape Town est jolie et attachante.
Vous n'avez pas prévu Cape of Good Hope, dommage.
Hermanus: on y fait que passer et on est allé dormir à Gansbaai ( Nell's Guest House, supers petits-déjeuners) pour cause de plongée avec les requins. Il faut une bonne journée pour faire la route côtière de Fish Hoek à Hermanus, et les points de vue sont magnifiques.
Après, nous sommes revenus au Cap pour prendre l'avion pour Durban (50€/pers sur la lowcost Mango Airlines). Il y 3 compagnies lowcost en Afrique du Sud, Mango, Kulula et 1time.
Hluhluwe: au mois 2 nuits c'est bien, Mpila, et une autre nuit dans l'autre partie du parc de l'autre côté de la route qui le traverse.
St Lucia: RAS
Swaziland: cette année on l'a évité. Sa traversée n'apporte rien, sauf à voir un pays très pauvre, et le risque de tracas aux passages de frontières. De plus il faut jongler avec les horaires.
Kruger: 5 nuits c'est bien, c'est ce que nous avons fait cette fois-ci. Privilégiez plutôt la moitié sud de la réserve.
Blyde River Canyon: effectivement, pas mal de possibilités de randos, mais il faut dégager du temps pour les faire.
Quelques remarques générales: les routes sont bonnes, les sudaf roulent vite, ils sont très polis et courtois sur la route. Ceux qui roulent moins vite se rangent pour vous laisser doubler, un petit coup de warning pour les remercier. Vous verrez vous vous y mettrez vite.
Quand vous vous garez en ville, si quelqu'un se propose pour garder votre voiture, ne dites pas non, c'est son seul moyen de subsistance, de plus votre voiture sera bien gardée, et ça ne vous coûtera que 5 rands, soit 55 centimes.
Toutes les aires de pique-nique et les emplacements de camping sont équipés d'un barbecue. le barbecue, ou braai en langue locale est la spécialité du pays, ce qui fait que vous trouverez de la viande partout, souvent marinée. Très bon.
Contrairement à ce qui est mentionné dans tous les guides, et probablement une retombée du Mondial, pratiquement toutes les stations service prennent la carte bancaire (sauf quand c'est en service réduit, le dimanche par exemple).
Désolé si c'est un peu long, mais il y a tant à dire sur ce très beau et très grand pays.
Vous pouvez me contacter directemlent si vous souhaitez des précisions sur tel ou tel point.
Bonne préparation de votre voyage.
Un conseil que j'ai oublié dans le post précédent: compter bien le nombre de jours que vous allez passer dans les parcs dépendant de SAN Parks (voir leur site) en y incluant les jours à Hluhluwe, et il est fort probable que vous ayez intérêt à acheter la Wild Card familiale, plutôt que de payer les droits d'entrée à chaque fois. Vous l'achetez par internet et elle vous arrive par courrier environ 10-12 jours plus tard.
Quelques petits éléments en plus:
- Je confirme pour le Cap, prévoyez plusieurs jours, ce sera une bonne occasion de faire une pose je pense, d'autant plus que la météo joue aussi beaucoup dans cette région. Table Mountain jour de brume n'a que très peu d'intérêt (c'est d'ailleurs le plus souvent fermé dans ces conditions), il faut donc prévoir plusieurs jours par sécurité. Et puis Robben island est aussi une étape intéressante qui permettra de vous changer un peu des étapes nature. Je suis aussi un grand fan de la plongée avec les requins blancs qui elle aussi peut être reportée pour cause de mauvais temps.
- il faudrait préciser la transition Tsitsikamma-Drakensberg. L'eastern Cape est la région la moins développée du pays donc il faut savoir ne pas avoir les yeux plus gros que le ventre. Et puis pourquoi passer deux jours à Addo. Ce parc risque de vous paraitre minuscule et relativement terne dans un voyage comprenant le Transfrontier parc, Hluhluwe, le Pilanesberg et le Kruger. Selon moi des étapes à Coffe Bay ou Port St John s'imposent à moins que vous n'optiez pour un vol le Cap-Durban.
Sinon pas grand chose à rajouter, un superbe voyage en prévision.
Après avoir lu les différents conseils et avis laissés par les forumeurs attentionnés, j'ai fait des modifications. Voilà ce que ça donne aujourd'hui :
Arrivée à Johannesburg et départ de suite
Pilanesberg 3
Etape vers Upington 1
Kgalagadi 5
Augrabies 2
Namaqua 1
Cederberg 1
Table Mountain 1
Cap Bonne Espérance 1
Hermanus 1
De Hoop 2
Tsitsikamma 1
Addo 2
Etape vers Drakensberg 1
Drakenseberg 3 (golden Gate et Royal Natal)
Hluhluwe Imofozi 2
St Lucia 2
Kruger 5
Réserve Privée Kruger 2 (pour les léos ...)
Blyde Canyon 1
J'ai préféré laisser deux nuits à Addo pour la route du lendemain. D'ailleurs, est-ce que quelqu'un connaîtrait une étape sympa entre Addo et le Drakensberg ?
Autre question : est-ce que la Namaqua sera fleuri vers fin juillet ?
En résumé du rapport pour la fin juillet 2010: pas trop de visiteurs, état des routes en bon état, bonne floraison
mais le sol est plus sec comparé a l'an dernier.
En fin juillet des 3 dernières années:
Type de fleur en abondance : "Conicosia elongata", "Ursinia sp", ensuite : "Gazanias", "Pelargoniums"
Sur ce site, ils disent que ce phénomene de floraison dure de Juillet à septembre de chaque année.
Plus ou moins de fleurs selon l'endroit dans le namaqualand.
Bonjour,
Bonne idée de garder 2 nuits à Addo. Même si c'est un petit parc, nous avons beaucoup aimé. Il est très agréable et il y a beaucoup d'animaux à voir. Il y a très peu de félins et ils sont donc quasiment impossibles à voir (en tout cas, nous on en a pas vu). Par contre, pour ce qui est des éléphants, vous serez servis ! Il y a aussi une quantité de Kudus et de phacochères.
Nous y étions resté 1.5 jour et avions justement profité de la 2ème demi journée pour nous avancer sur la route. En effet, nous faisions également une étape Addo - Drakensberg. Les routes sont bonnes et roulantes, mais cette étape (nous allions jusqu'à Himeville à côté d'Underberg) est vraiment très longue.
Désireux d'avancer, nous nous sommes retrouvés vers 16 h 30/17 h (la nuit tombe très vite l'hiver et il est déconseillé de rouler la nuit, notamment à cause des risques de collisions avec les animaux), dans un petit village "Peddie" où pour la première fois nous étions vraiment dépaysés. Pas un panneau annonçant des backpacker/camping/hôtel ... Alors qu'il y en a toujours ... Ne sachant où dormir nous sommes allés au poste de police où l'on nous a gentiment indiqué les 2 seuls B&B existant dans le village. C'était très très rustique ... Nous étions les 2 seuls blancs dans le village et notre passage au supermarché (notre B&B ne faisait pas à manger, ni le soir ni le matin !) n'est pas passé inaperçu ! Mais comme d'habitude, les gens étaient très gentils et nous arrêtaient pour nous demander d'où nous venions.
Bref sur cette N2, pas grand chose en terme d'hébergement !! Prévoyez soit vraiment un point de chute dans une ville plus ou moins importante, ou alors improvisez en fonction de votre horaire. C'est ce que nous avons fait et malgré le caractère un peu spécial de notre hébergement, c'est resté un grand souvenir pour nous !
Profitez bien de votre voyage. Votre périple a l'air extra !
Nous rentrons d'une semaine au Cap, la péninsule est magnifique !
Si ça vous intéresse nous avons deux places pour le shark cage diving à Gansbai que nous n'avons pas pu faire. Nous pouvons vous les vendre à un bon prix, surtout que c'est assez cher sur place ! Voici mon mail perso : helenedechorivit@hotmail.com
Nous avons grimpé table montain depuis le centre de cape town (nous n'avions pas de voiture sur la fin) : c'est sportif mais magnifique !
Bon préparatifs !
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
