Morondava

Translated into English.

Original post
PA
Hi everyone,

I noticed the forum could use more recommendations for visiting Madagascar, so I thought I’d share my experience.

I arrived on the Big Island last March. I moved there as part of a contract with a friend who started a tech business. A quick note about Madagascar: this country is full of talent. The young people are incredibly ambitious, dynamic, and creative.

After visiting some of the more well-known tourist spots like Mahajanga (Majunga) and Toamasina (Tamatave), the place that really stood out to me was Morondava, in the southwest of the island.

To get there, we left Tananarive (Antananarivo) in the evening, heading to Antsirabe, where we spent the night. By the way, Antsirabe is worth lingering in—it’s a charming town with lots of pleasant spots, and you’ll often run into French travelers there.

The next day, we left at 4:00 AM for Morondava. Our goal was to arrive around 3:00 PM, driving at a relaxed pace to enjoy the scenery. We stopped in Miandrivazo for lunch—there, the tilapia and grilled prawns are a must.

Before Miandrivazo, the road isn’t great (like many roads in Madagascar, unfortunately), but the stunning landscapes more than make up for it. The vegetation, typical of African savannas, is fascinating. However, bushfires—unfortunately common on the island—leave visible scars on the scenery.

About 50 kilometers from Morondava, near Mahabo, the magic begins: majestic baobabs line the road, and the sunset turns this scene into a real postcard. It’s a moment I’ll never forget.

Once there, we stayed near Nosy Kely. It was very hot, but the warmth of the locals, the Sakalava, and their incredible culinary skills quickly made us forget the heat. The seafood and fish are prepared with impressive mastery… so good!

I’d love to recommend some great spots, but I’d rather not accidentally promote anything here. What I *can* say is that Morondava is absolutely worth the detour, if only for its unique atmosphere and breathtaking landscapes.

The next day, we set off to explore the famous Avenue of the Baobabs. This place is simply mind-blowing, one of a kind. As the name suggests, it’s an avenue lined with giant baobabs, with a dusty red-dirt road running through the middle. The whole scene has an almost mystical vibe.

We were planning to visit the Tsingy de Bemaraha on the fly, but it turned out to be too ambitious. According to our guide, we would’ve had to cross two rivers, at Belo and Bekopaka, which would’ve taken a lot more time. That’ll definitely be my next big adventure in Madagascar.

If you get the chance, I’d recommend going even farther than the Avenue of the Baobabs—about two hours by road. There, you can catch a glimpse of a real baobab forest in the distance. Some friends in another car were lucky enough to go, and their stories made me dream. They experienced a magical moment, one of those things you have to see to believe.

I’m no travel journal expert, but I hope this little glimpse inspires you to discover this little slice of paradise in Madagascar.
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Hi there, Thanks for sharing your feedback on this trip to Morondava. It’s a really great spot, indeed (there used to be a school rickshaw at one point—I don’t know if that’s still the case).

I think it’s worth sharing your addresses, whether you liked them or not, along with a few details about them.

For me, Morondava was either staying with friends or at Trecigogne.

If you don’t have time for the Tsingy, maybe you can squeeze in a visit to Belo sur Mer—it’s much closer but not always easy to access either. Especially the beautiful little coral islands offshore, some of which are (sometimes? all the time?) used as fishing bases by the Vezo. Stunning!
PA Pastani88 ·
Hello, Thanks for your feedback on this trip to Morondava. It’s a really great spot (which used to have a school rickshaw at one point—I don’t know if that’s still the case).

I think it’s worth sharing your addresses, whether you liked them or not, along with a few details.

For me, Morondava was either at friends’ places or at Trecigogne.

If you don’t have time for the Tsingy, maybe you can make time for Belo sur Mer—it’s much closer but not always easy to access. Especially the beautiful little coral islands offshore, some of which are (sometimes? all the time?) used as fishing bases by the Vezo. Stunning.

Hello Rotsaka, Here are a few places I recommend for first-time visitors to Morondava: Bleue Soleil, still on the Nousy Kely side, and Jean le Rasta (oh, I love that one!), and near the Port, next to the Palissandre Hotel, there’s another really nice spot whose name I can’t remember, but a Malagasy friend shared a photo. Maybe someone will recognize the place.

I’ll try to find out more about Belo sur Mer, since the next destination will likely be the Tsingy de Bemaraha.

DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
To get there, we left from Tananarive (Antananarivo) in the evening, heading to Antsirabe,

Hey! All these places bring back memories... Is the Tana–Antsirabe train still running? It was so quirky! Same question for Tana–Tamatave? I took my whole family to Morondava... From Morondava, we used to go to Belo sur Mer. That’s where they built "boutres." By the way, the son of one of my friends (Philippe) should still live there... he runs beach bungalows (I forgot the name).

I hadn’t seen the photo! Is that the "hotel" in Belo sur Mer with the pool?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PA Pastani88 ·
Hi Djalma, This photo was taken in Morondava, near Nosy Kely. It's an amazing spot with fine sand and a private beach right in front of the pool. It's simply UNBELIEVABLE! Otherwise, I'll look into the trains, but I've heard that the Antsirabe - Manakara route still exists. Apparently, the southeast of the island is also worth the detour, especially when passing through Ranomafana.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
It seems the southeast of the island is also worth the detour, especially by passing through Ranomafana.

I know it too! Ranomafana is right in the middle of a humid tropical forest... Farther south in Fianarantsoa, there was a restaurant—the most famous in all of Madagascar: Chez Papillon.

Also worth seeing on National Route 7! Isalo, the Portuguese Cave, the Monkey Canyon, the Rat Canyon, etc. In the southwest, the beach at Ifaty near Toliara, Anakao, etc...

North of Toamasina, Île Sainte-Marie, the pirate cemetery... The Vanilla Coast around Antalaha... ..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Good evening! This info is a bit outdated now [;)] Chez Papillon has been closed for a very long time, and there are definitely no butterflies there anymore—just mice. These days, Tsara Guest House has become the go-to spot in Fianar for a good meal, though it has its ups and downs too.

Philippe at Belo—I don’t think he’s still around, but I could be wrong.

As for the train, Tana–Antsirabe, I’m not sure if it’s still possible to take that route. Antsirabe–Manakara is definitely a no-go since there’s no track between Antsirabe and Fianar.

But Fianar to Manakara? It works sometimes, then it doesn’t. Nomady usually has the latest updates.

Have a great day
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Good evening,

Chez Papillon has been closed for a very long time now, and there are no more butterflies—just mice, that’s for sure. Philippe in Belo, I don’t think he’s still around, but I might be wrong. As for the train, Tana - Antsirabe, I don’t know if it’s still possible to travel that route. Antsirabe-Manakara is definitely not an option since there’s no track between Antsirabe and Fianar.

But Fianar to Manakara, it works sometimes and then it doesn’t

Well, if I understand correctly, everything’s going downhill![;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
In Madagascar, it's sadly clear. Everything's falling apart.
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
It seems that the southeast of the island is also worth the detour, especially by passing through Ranomafana.

Yes, it’s gorgeous. The Tanala country, Ranomafana, Tolongoina, Manapatrana... loads of possible hikes, really beautiful landscapes, and further east, Manakara or Mananjary, the chance to head back up to Tamatave by *bush boat* along the Pangalanes Canal. Super nice.

But actually, all of Madagascar is worth the detour and taking your time. There are fantastic spots all over the country, usually hard to access and thus requiring time from north to south and west to east.

The progressive but steady destruction of roads and tracks is making things more and more adventurous and tiring.
PA Pastani88 ·
It seems the southeast of the island is also worth the detour, especially when passing through Ranomafana.

The progressive but nonetheless regular destruction of roads and tracks is making things more and more adventurous and tiring.

Hello,

Safety remains a major issue, especially during the journey to the Tsingy, where, from what I’ve heard, it was essential to be escorted by a police officer to avoid attacks by "dahalo". This phenomenon could be partly explained by the widespread poverty [:(]

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