A force de voir défiler des carnets de voyage de Namibie, on vient d'évoquer cette destination ce matin au petit déjeuner... pour novembre prochain (oui, oui, 2012, dans 6 semaines !😉). Je n'en suis donc qu'à ma toute, toute première réflexion.
Je viens de jeter un oeil dans le guide "Saisons et climats" et viens de voir que ce n'était pas forcément la meilleure saison 🤪et que certains parcs (Etosha) pouvaient être fermés entre novembre et mars. Vrai ou faux ? (car l'ouvrage date un peu !)
Admettons que ça soit faux et qu'on puisse envisager le voyage : ce serait pour une durée de 15 jours à 3 semaines (vol compris) à partir de début novembre et à prioiri en boucle.
Pour le circuit, je me suis pour l'instant basée sur une idée de Pierre77 évoquée dans cette discussion :
"En 15 jours, tu peux faire quelque chose comme Windhoek / Mariental / Sesriem / Naukluft / Swakopmund (ou Walvis Bay) / Spitzkoppe / Brandberg / Twyfelfontein / Kamanjab / Etosha / Waterberg / Windhoek… Déjà une très belle dose de Namibie sans excès de kms ! "
Je me suis contentée pour l'instant de poser ces destinations sur une carte et ça me semble déjà un circuit assez conséquent (nous aimons bien nous poser parfois et ne pas avoir à rouler plusieurs centaines de km tous les jours)
Cela vous semble-t-il pertinent... à la période évoquée ou bien, en raison du climat, faut-il privilégier une autre région (Sud ?) ?
Si je pouvais également avoir quelques témoignages de personnes étant parties en novembre...
aucun problème pour novembre. Sur le papier c'est le tout début de la saison des pluies qui se caractérise par quelques orages par ci par là.
Sûrement pas de quoi fermer les parcs !! quelle drôle d'info
Tu peux même totalement passer à travers et ne voir aucune goutte de pluie.
par contre c'est grosse chaleur
le parcours proposé par Pierre est excellent mais nécessite de toutes façons de faire plusieurs centaines de km chaque jour, à part une ou deux exception.
Mais c'est la condition pour pouvoir visiter l'essentiel en 15 jours
par contre c'est très chaud pour les réservations là, dans 1 mois il faudra prendre ce qu'il reste et non pas ce que tu veux
En Namibie, les distances sont longues en tout état de cause et donc il faut rouler pas mal. Mais le temps passé sur la route fait vraiment partie du voyage ! Les paysages sont le plus souvent magnifiques, agrémentés par-ci-par-là de quelques springboks (ou girafes, ou phacochères, ou éléphants, ou, ou, ou).
Je n'y suis pas (encore ?) allé en novembre, mais je ne pense pas du tout que ce soit un mauvais choix. Des ciels un peu orageux sont souvent plus photogéniques que tout bleus. Vous n'aurez pas froid du tout le soir et le matin, les journées sont plus longues qu'en juillet/août.
Hello Jean-Jacques,
Grosso-modo le même que celui que Christine à retrouvé dans un de mes anciens messages. Mais en y ajoutant Epupa, ce qui ajoute quelques centaines de kms.
Beau voyage en perspective. 🙂
Je n'y suis pas (encore ?) allé en novembre, mais je ne pense pas du tout que ce soit un mauvais choix.
C'est parfait alors !
Vous aurez un 4x4 avec tentes ou pas?
Pour l'instant, je n'en sais encore rien. 4 x 4 sans doute, avec tentes, nous n'y avons pas réfléchi. 🤪 A priori un mix entre lodges et campings ne me déplairait pas. Mais rien n'est décidé de ce côté-là.
Vous venez chercher quoi en Namibie?
Il paraît qu'on peut y voir quelques animaux 😏. Bon, sans plaisanterie aucune, les animaux et... les paysages (Etosha et dunes du côté de Sesriem font partie de nos incontournables) et s'il y a des opportunités, quelques balades à pied.
Grosso-modo le même que celui que Christine à retrouvé dans un de mes anciens messages.
Y aurait-il un moyen de l'alléger en supprimant quelque chose ?
Bon, merci en tout cas pour vos premiers commentaires qui confirment en tout cas qu'en novembre c'est faisable.
Y aurait-il un moyen de l'alléger en supprimant quelque chose ?
Bah... Étant donné que les extrémités Sud-Ouest (Sesriem) et Nord-Est (Etosha) sont tes deux incontournables, je ne vois pas trop où alléger. 😏
Tu pourrais gagner pas mal de temps (sinon des kms) en reliant Swakopmund à Etosha par le goudron, mais en zappant tout le Damaraland. Quel gâchis ce serait...
Tout dépend de la durée totale de votre voyage, mais si en 15 jours, c'est assez dense (mais pas trop), en trois semaines ou presque, ça devient vraiment tranquille.
par contre c'est très chaud pour les réservations là, dans 1 mois il faudra prendre ce qu'il reste et non pas ce que tu veux
Hello,
Question bête: faut il vraiment réserver les hébergements avant de partir (il n' y pas de vacances scolaires Sudaf en novembre, et je doute que les Européens viennent en masse), où peut on se contenter (ce que j' ai fait en Avril / Mai) soit de téléphoner la veille, soit de se pointer là où on veut passer la nuit (zéro échecs en Bots / Nam / Zam en 5 semaines).
J' ai d' ailleurs fait en grande partie pareil en Juillet août (mais c' était surtout Zim/Zam).
En fait, j' ai le sentiment:
- Que certains (dont les TO, qui ne sont pas mes copains) créent une psychose de pénurie.
- Que la nécessité (??) de réserver longtemps à l' avance n' existe que si on est vraiment fixé sur un spot particulier, voire même comme certains sur un emplacement de parking particulier à ce spot particulier.
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
15 jours me semble la durée minimale pour envisager un circuit de découverte en Namibie . Il ne réserve alors d' autres alternatives que les incontournables que tu as déjà fixées pour l' ébauche de ton propre itinéraire .
Avec une semaine de plus, on peut choisir d' inclure quelques options en marge de ce circuit, tels le Sud, Epupa, Opuwo ... que l' on fixera en fonction de ses propres centres d' intérêts ; ou encore, elle peut permettre juste de prendre un peu plus de temps si l' on en éprouve l' envie ...
Pierre a dit :
En Namibie, les distances sont longues en tout état de cause et donc il faut rouler pas mal. Mais le temps passé sur la route fait vraiment partie du voyage ! Les paysages sont le plus souvent magnifiques, agrémentés par-ci-par-là de quelques springboks (ou girafes, ou phacochères, ou éléphants, ou, ou, ou).
Je "plussoie", et si je devais n' ajouter qu' une seule des options précitées, mon choix se porterait également sur Epupa !
- Que certains (dont les TO, qui ne sont pas mes copains) créent une psychose de pénurie.
- Que la nécessité (??) de réserver longtemps à l' avance n' existe que si on est vraiment fixé sur un spot particulier, voire même comme certains sur un emplacement de parking particulier à ce spot particulier.
N'importe quoi !! t'es en forme Bolo dis donc
Mais c'est vrai que toi tu es un grand spécialiste de la Namibie, j'avais oublié..
Un exemple: Okaukeijo en camping, pour le 21 octobre...complet. Même en camping c'est full, je te dis pas en lodge...
Donc tu peux prendre le risque de ne pas faire de résas, de te casser le nez et de taper des kilomètres de nuit pour trouver un hébergement
Mais le mieux c'est quand même de réserver pour partir l'esprit tranquille et consacrer ses vacances au plaisir et non pas à chercher des hébergements en fin de journée
Tu connais la Namibie sûrement mieux que moi, c' est vrai que je connais mieux le Botswana.., j' ai juste dit que je n' ai pas eu à réserver en Avril, essentiellement à Zelda, dans toute la bande Caprivi, à Roy's Camp et à Waterberg (pour ne citer que Nam); je n' ai jamais roulé la nuit...
Sur la pénurie provoquée par les TO, il y a eu des échanges intéressants sur un certain Forum Sudaf, où l' un d' entre eux (néerlandais - commercial member) a fini par avouer qu' ils avaient des accords pour des réservations groupées longtemps à l' avance, celle qui n' étaient pas utilisées un mois avant leur date étant alors remises sur le marché sans pénalité (c' est à dire trop tard pour que des particuliers réservent, mais bien pour moi puisque cela laisse manifestement des places vacantes en dernière minute)..Un particulier ne peut pas souvent annuler sans frais 30 jours avant la date....
Ce n' est qu' à ce prix que les TO peuvent proposer avec certitude des tours "ready made". Je n' ai rien inventé à ce sujet, mais encore une fois c' est mon sentiment, tu es libre de ne pas partager (sans agressivité)...
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
C'est vrai que nous avons eu la chance toi et moi, en Zambie et Zimbabwe d'avoir de la place un peu partout dans les campings (et chalets ;-).
Mais la Namibie ce n'est pas pareil... ! C'est beaucoup plus fréquenté !
Par exemple, j'ai cherché en FEVRIER à passer une semaine en Namibie fin Aout, et je n ai pas eu ce que je souhaitais à cause des "fully booked".
De même, je ne me plains pas, mais je me suis retrouvé "obligé" de prendre une Upper Class Room parce qu il n y avait plus de place non plus sur mon choix alternatif en chambre "normale".
Pour trouver quelque chose, j'étais bien content de passer par un TO (pour la première fois de ma vie).
Et comme j'avais un bon TO (merci BelAfrica), celui-ci m'a fait attribuer LA chambre VIP...
Trop dure la vie... ;-)
Je pense aussi que ton mode de voyage n'est pas celui des "actifs". Tu as la chance de pouvoir aller et venir, ici et là-bas. Un jour de plus par-ci, par-là ne te soucie guère, et c'est normal.
Mais nous autres, on part moins souvent en vacances et on n'a pas trop envie de se planter, d'arriver à l improviste sur un camping plein de chez plein.
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Oui c'est vrai aussi. certains TO, une minorité et les très gros pratiquent avec certains lodges (ceux qui le veulent bien) ce qu'on appelle des block booking.
Le plus souvent ils la jouent au chantage avec les lodges et en plus demandent des prix cassés.
est ce là une raison pour ouvrir un sac (appelé TO) et tous les mettre dans ce même sac et le jeter sans ménagement ?
il faut faire un peu la part des choses.
En camping on peut se pointer à peu près partout en Namibie, sauf à Sesriem et Etosha. C'est un fait avéré.
autre exemple : Sesriem le 12 octobre... complet
En lodge il vaut mieux réserver quelque soit la saison
Maintenant chacun fait comme il veut. On est là sur un forum d'échange et de partage d'information...
D' accord avec toi s' agissant de août en Namibie !! J' ai reporté pour la Namibie mon expérience d' Avril dernier, pensant (il s' agissait d' une question) que Novembre n' était pas trop fréquenté...Je me trompe sûrement.
Zam et Zim ne sont clairement pas comparables à la Namibie, tu as quand même vu comme moi que les réservations longtemps à l' avance ne sont nécessaires que si tu veux une place particulière (il y en a qui se battent déjà pour les 2 places aux chutes de ... à Mana poour aôut prochain).
Et il est vrai que mon style de voyage est plus cool que celui de la plupart, mais cela découle aussi de la volonté (fruit de l' expérience) de ne pas arriver tard et de ne pas rouler la nuit...
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
@ Francky : il ne manquait plus que toi dans la bande ! 🙂 🙂 🙂
@ Vincent : 100 % d'accord avec ta conclusion.
En camping et hors Etosha et Sesriem (et encore) il y a toujours moyen de moyenner, en lodge, j'avoue que je ne sais pas trop, ça doit dépendre lesquels.
La plupart du temps quand nous dormons dans un lit, c'est sur une décision prise sur place.
Cependant les quelques fois où on nous a "obligé" à réserver (Koiimasis en avril, Drotsky's en jullet…), c'était complètement inutile.
Je pense que tout ça relève surtout d'une philosophie de voyage, qui en ce qui me concerne évolue au fil du temps : pour un premier voyage dans le coin avec une durée limitée, c'est sans doute mieux de réserver. Savoir où on va dormir chaque soir apporte une certaine sérénité quand on ne sait pas encore bien où on met les pieds (ou les roues) dans un nouvel univers.
Mais bien que n'étant pas retraité et disposant pour chaque voyage d'un temps (très) limité, ma façon de faire évolue au fil des voyages et je réserve de moins en moins, me contentant (sauf exceptions sur des points-phares) de contacts assez vagues par emails avec différents hébergements au fil de l'itinéraire prévu. Mais ce qui marche bien au Caprivi ou en Zambie marche peut-être (sûrement) moins bien dans les coins les plus courus de Namibie... Et peut sans doute ne pas marcher du tout à Etosha ou Sesriem.
Je ne demande qu' à changer d' avis sur les TO, jusque là mon unique expérience (Mongolie avec l' un des plus réputés en France, fini entre avocats avec remboursement intégral après qu' ils eussent essayé de me mettre à Oulan Bator devant un fait accompli en me fourguant un voyage avec chauffeur alors que j' avais acheté un self drive)...
Je suis juste (entre autres 40 ans de voyages professionnels plus de la moitié du temps) à me débrouiller plutôt seul et serai ravi de rémunérer un TO s' il apporte réellement une plus-value. Mais encore une fois ce n' est que mon opinion, c' est comme pour les plombiers, je change mes robinets tout seul (et un peu plus...), je ne fais appel à eux qu' en dernier recours.
Tu as des actions chez les TO ??
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Je voulais Christine t' adresser cette mise en garde, valable également pour chaque nouveau candidat au voyage .
A la lecture des compte-rendus de ceux qui en reviennent, ils semblent souffrir du même mal personnellement ressenti l' an passé ... Aussi mieux vaut-il il être prévenu : l' abus de ces paysages grandioses nuit gravement à la morosité (quelque soit la durée de ton séjour, 15 jours me semblent suffisants pour y succomber), et semble provoquer une certaine accoutumance, dont le sevrage brutal peut engendrer un état dépressif . 😉
Salut Christine,
Très bon choix. Je ne doute pas que vous saurez apprécier compte tenu de vos nombreux voyages à travers le monde et votre capacité à aimer.
Tu dois faire le tri des messages précédents, il y a de bons conseils. Je n'ai pas grand chose à ajouter à ce qui a été dit (c'est la plupart du temps pathétique et dénué d'intérêt ou alors ce sont des règlements de compte dont le forum Afrique australe est friand depuis plusieurs mois). Ceci est juste un message "d'encouragement" 😛.
A bientôt.
Salut Fred (je m'adresse à lui mais ma réponse s'adresse à tous 😉
D'abord merci pour les commentaires soulevés et suscités et les messages d'encouragement 🙂
Pour les billets, non, nous n'avons pas encore nos billets (mais déjà regardé). En revanche, les dates se précisent : ce pourrait être du 3.11 (départ Paris, arrivée le 4/11 à Windhoek). Retour le 23/11 soit 20 jours sur place.
Avec une semaine de plus, on peut choisir d' inclure quelques options en marge de ce circuit, tels le Sud, Epupa, Opuwo ... que l' on fixera en fonction de ses propres centres d' intérêts ; ou encore, elle peut permettre juste de prendre un peu plus de temps si l' on en éprouve l' envie ...
Ce serait plutôt 20 jours... et l'option de "juste prendre un peu plus de temps" me sied bien. Pour l'instant, ce ne sont que des grandes lignes. Pour les détails, ce sera dans un deuxième temps.
Je serais plutôt favorable à ne pas trop ou tout réserver et à ne pas passer par un TO... si cette formule est valable pour la Namibie.
Je serais plutôt favorable à ne pas trop ou tout réserver et à ne pas passer par un TO... si cette formule est valable pour la Namibie.
Absolument valable en Namibie en novembre avec peut-être deux réserves surtout si vous ne campez pas: réserver pour tes deux incontournables (Sesriem et Etosha)
Pour ma part, je pars du 24 Nov au 15 dec en Namibie – Bots avec un groupe d'amis.
C'est vrai qu'il ferra vraiment chaud, mais les pluies ne sont pas à craindre, les nuits seront douces, les journées + longues... et, last but not least, les hordes de touristes seront repartis...
De + bcp de loueurs font du moitié prix sur les 4x4 à partir de Décembre. Et pas de stress pour les (non)résas.
C'est ma première fois, mais je pense qu'avec de bonnes cartes, tel satelitaires, GPS et cie... je devrais m'en tirer.
Comme il est préférable de remplir un 4x4 pour l'amortir, nous serions heureux d'accueillir 3 personnes de +.
Mon itinéraire ? La totale, avec quand même quelques temps de repos, avec 2 nuitées par ci par là. Mais les kil ne doivent pas être perçus comme une « nuisance », une « souffrance », mais comme une « bénédiction », car bien peu auront notre chance d'admirer de si beaux paysages...
Donc de Fish River à Epopa Falls, + Okavango !
Tant qu'à faire.. ;
Je suis cuistot, donc j'aurai plaisir à faire la bouffe, mais on ira quand même de tps en tps au restau.
Les vacances scolaires Sud Africaines (zones côtière et intérieure) vont grosso-modo du 15 décembre au 15 janvier...tu ne devrais pas avoir de problèmes.
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
effectivement la réservation n'est pas indispensable surtout avec l'option camping.
Par contre si vous souhaitez loger en dur à Etosha et Sesriem, la vous devriez quand même réserver.
Moi mon coup de coeur à Etosha c'est le chalet Sekelboss à Halali, avec un petit chemin partant du chalet qui vous méne en haut de la coline (point le plus haut d'Etosha) ou vous voyez à des kilomètres et en plus vous surplombez le point d'eau d'Halali.
Le chalet est super agréable, avec braï perso sur la terrasse, à l'écart au calme, ça vaut le coup de se faire plaisir.
Et je n'ai pas d'actions dans Etosha Park (heureusement parce que bonjour la gestion...)
Non, chaque fois en septembre-octobre mais quelques forumistes sont partis en novembre- décembre avec plus ou moins de chance suivant les années !
L'avantage c'est de voir la Namibie reverdir... 😎
C'est aussi mieux pour les cascades... se taper des heures de pistes vers Epopa pour voir un filet d'eau...
De + les journées sont + longues... et la fréquentation touristique au ralenti.
Biz
Tout le monde attend la pluie avec impatience.
il y a énormément d'incendies.
Les réserves sont touchées, même Etosha. Je parlais hier avec des personnes qui revenaient d'Etosha, elles me disaient que par endroit c'est lunaire. Les animaux semblent déboussolés.
Mais pas d'inquiétude, le feu est maintenant sous contrôle et d'ici quelques semaines tout sera comme avant.
Quelques photos et un extrait d'article
RAGING VELD FIRES AT ETOSHA
No end in sight, "it is like hell" !
The fires have been raging for a few days and no end is in sight at this stage. The flames are fuelled by uncontrolled winds that constantly change direction, which makes it impossible to extinguish. "It is like hell" said a team of fire fighters. "The smoke is so thick at times that one can easily lose direction" they say. All travellers must be warned to stay clear of any such area so as not to get stuck in the flames.
Comment ai-je pu rater ton post ... surtout qu'il y a déjà du monde 😉.
Concernant les réservations ma maigre expérience en Juillet / août, théoriquement période haute, presque aucun endroit n'était complet.
Si je me base sur "l'ambiance" familiale va jusqu'à Epupa 🙂🙂.
Peut-être étudie une solution en allant directement de Windhoek à Sesriem en zappant le Kalahari, en plus tu pourrais t'arrêter randonner en chemin.
Voir si c'est la saison des baleines à Walvis, sinon je ne suis pas convaincu que c'est un endroit incontournable pour vous. Encore un peu de temps de gagné pour flâner 😉.
Encore ! 😕 😠
C'est plus tôt que l'an dernier .
Des feux avaient ravagé Etosha (entre autre) à la mi-octobre.
Musungu s'en souvient, lui qui avait vu les flammes presque lècher son véhicule.😕
C'est moche ! Et il n'y a pas qu' à Etosha: je viens de lire que 3 San avaient été brûlés et en étaient morts en aidant une touriste à se sauver du feu !
Un quatrième est gravement brûlé et Naankuse lance un appel à donation.
Naankuse travaille en collaboration avec le CCF et Namibrand, je crois (?).
Mais je ne suis pas fort optimiste si le malheureux a des brûlures sur 70% du corps ! 😕
pas tout à fait Pierre
Wilderness lache la gestion de la concession, c'est différent. Le repreneur n'est pas encore nommé d'où l'impossibilité de réserver pour l'instant.
mais gageons que tout va vite rentrer dans l'ordre
Salut Pierre,
Oui c'est bien triste !
J'ai pensé à toi en lisant cet article , tu les as peut-être rencontrés- qui sait- lors de ton passage dans ce coin. 🤪
J'avais vu pour Palmvag et toi, as-tu vu qu' à Opuwo ( le lodge aux draps de soie 😏🙂) ce n'est plus les proprios que tu as connus ! 😇 🙂 😉
J'avais lu quelque part qu'un gros pool d'investisseurs se retirait de Namibie, ils vendent leurs lodges (je crois au moins une dizaine) 😕.
Ils voulaient vendre en bloc mais n'ayant pas trouvé d'acheteurs il vendent lodge par lodge.
Oui c'est un accident terrible.
Effectivement toute l'industrie du tourisme a été mobilisée par Naankuse pour sauver le courrageux.
Pour pouvoir augmenter ses chances il faudrait pouvoir le transférer dans un service spécialisé de grand brulés, le problème est que le coût du transfert est de 750 000 N$. Voici le point qui à été communiqué ce matin par Rudie de Naankuse
Si certains veulent donner je peux passer les infos en message privé
Naankuse et CCF n'ont rien à voir.
This is where we stand:
I have spoken to dr. Manoj Kamble who is currently the doctor in charge of Gert, he agrees that if we transfer him to a specialized burn unit it will dramatically increase his chances of survival
I then spoke to dr. Christo Aldrige who helped me get in contact with dr. Rian Pretorius a surgeon at Millpark hospital where the have a top burns unit
Millpark will require a minimum of R 750 000 for the patient to be transferred that excludes airfare etc.
We can use the Naankuse Foundation account for raising the funds, Dara will supply you with account details
I have also spoken to the Republikein who will run an article to get people to donate, I have copied Ronelle into this mail
Millpark will need an organization to be responsible for the account, and although its an intimidating though I have said Naankuse will take responsibility
We need to make haste slowly with a patient like this so any help will be appreciated
et pour cause car il y a une mise aux enchères de la gestion de Palmwag lodge et Campsite.
Avis aux amateurs, vous avez jusqu'au 12 octobre pour vous inscrire.
Le gros problème des concessions c'est le relationnel avec les propriétaires du terrain (qui sont les cheferies locales) et la ça se complique. D'abord parce qu'ils voient souvent les lodges comme une source inépuisable de revenus et que les exigences sont souvent hors norme, mais aussi parce que l'on voit rapidement arriver : le sous chef, le representant de truc, le responsable de machin qui réclament tous leur part du gateau.
La c'est une grosse pointure qui jette l'éponge face à la difficulté de gérer (pas l'affaire...), mais ce n'est pas la première fois que le gérant change à Palmwag.
C'est domage car c'était bien géré et en plus c'est un des plus beau endroit de Namibie. Il faut espérer que le repreneur soit sérieux.
Il y a aussi la concession d'Epupa à vendre, mais la directement par le gérant actuel, pas d'enchères.
Et puis il ya des tractations permanentes dans beaucoup d'endroits. Certains chefs essaient de proposer de vendre pour faire augmenter les royalties de ceux qui sont en place.
Il y a aussi la concession d'Epupa à vendre, mais la directement par le gérant actuel, pas d'enchères.
Tu parles de Koos Verwey et de l'ex community camp ? Il a déjà vendu Camp Syncro à Marienfluss… À des gens qui on l'intention de développer en proposant quads et bateaux à moteur ! 🏴☠️
Merci Michelle,
Je retiens la flamme😕 dans les yeux de Cgunta et le sourire esquissé.
Et le fait qu'il faut 70 000€ pour commencer à le soigner quand ici ce serait gratuit.
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Je reviens d'un séjour non prévu en Namibie. je tiens tout suite à dire que les tarifs pratiqués pour des excursions à Etosha sont trop élevés. Dans mon…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?