Namibie sans 4X4 en juillet et août?
by Domih
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Nous recherchons des infos de voyageurs ayant visité cette région sans 4X4 et en camping en juillet ou août. La conduite est-elle réellement dangereuse dans ce pays ? Est-il possible de voir de superbes paysages avec ce système ? Et les Himbas, des rencontres sont-elles possibles ? Les villages accessibles ? mais à quoi s'attendre : de l'authentique ou des visites spéciales "touristes" ? Et le froid, la nuit sous une tente ??? Quels guides lonely ou petit futé ? Merci d'avance à tous.
1- Nous sommes allés en Namibie cette année en août en 4x4 avec tentes sur le toit avec 2 enfants. Tu veras sur ce forum que nombreux ont voyagé sans 4x4 et sans problème. Cela dit nous avons trouvé notre 4x4 souvent utile : à Sossuslei biensûr mais aussi certains chemins pour rejoindre les campings, certains raccourcis et je crois que c'est encore plus délicat dans le Damaraland (nous n'y sommes pas allés)
2- cf 1, nous n'avons pas rencontré les himbas
3-Le soir et jusqu'au matin il fait froid voir très froid (0 à 10°C). Il suffit d'être bien équipé (grosse laine polaire sur une première couche de T-shirt+pull+/-gants). Pour la nuit sous tente, nous avions des pyjamas longs (certains en laine polaire: caleçon plus pull), un sac de couchage 5°C et les couettes fournies par le loueur : nous n'avons jamais eu froid.
4-Amoureux du lonely planet, nous lui avions aveuglement fait confiance...et avons été très déçus : lieux indiqués de façon imprécise voire erronée, avis discutables, cartes petites et peu lisibles...informations non à jour. Je ne connais pas le petit futé Namibie mais des VForumiste le trouve vraiment trop léger, en revanche beaucoup semblent avoir apprécié le Bradt (en anglais comme le Lonely d'ailleurs)
La Namibie est un magnifique pays au paysages splendides et variés 🙂
1) Juillet-Août c'est la saison sèche si je me trompe pas. Donc normalement les route seront ... sèches😛! Plus sérieusement nous sommes aller en Namibie à la saison des pluies sans 4X4 alors toi si tu vas à la saison sèche même sans 4X4, je pense pas que ��a soit trop problématique... Surtout vu le prix😮. Les pistes sont plutôt en bonne état (large, bien lisses) t'as pas des pierres de 50cm qui éffleurent, ni des nids de poule aussi profonds. Toutefois si veux connaître une de nos mésaventures tu peux visiter mon blog (le 2e off course!)
2)Pour les Himbas on y est pas allé, faute de temps. Même si je trouve que voir des tribus, ça fait un peu zoo humain...
3)Nous on avait le Petit Futé.
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2)Pour les Himbas on y est pas allé, faute de temps. Même si je trouve que voir des tribus, ça fait un peu zoo humain...
3)Nous on avait le Petit Futé.
+++
1- Sur le 4*4, je partage l’avis de Timaroulou : même si elle n’est pas strictement indispensable pour qui ne sort pas des sentiers battus, une 4*4 avec ses grosses roues et sa garde rehaussée apporte un confort indéniable. A plusieurs reprises, nous avons été contents d’avoir une 4*4 plutôt qu’une voiture classique. Avoir une 4*4 permet aussi d’aller plus vite. Ceci dit nombreux sont ceux qui voyagent en voiture classique.
2- La conduite n’est dangereuse à condition de ne pas rouler trop vite : il y a facilement des pertes d’adhérence.
3- Pour les visites chez les Himbas : je dirai plutôt visite authentique. Clairement le village, où nous sommes allés avait l’habitude de voir des touristes, mais pas tous les jours quand même. En tous les cas, il n’était pas construit pour les touristes. Le mieux est d’y aller avec guide. On en trouve sans problème sur place. Après c’est une question de chance.
4- Pour le froid, nous avons eu quelques nuits froides, malgré nos damarts, sac à viande en soie, bonnets et gants, mais je crois que les duvets n’étaient pas très performants. Et puis ce n’était que quelques nuits.
5- Pour le guide, sans hésitation le Bradt. C’est de loin le meilleur mais il est en anglais. J’avais aussi acheté le Lonely Planet et là encore je suis d’accord avec Timaroulou : très décevant.
2- La conduite n’est dangereuse à condition de ne pas rouler trop vite : il y a facilement des pertes d’adhérence.
3- Pour les visites chez les Himbas : je dirai plutôt visite authentique. Clairement le village, où nous sommes allés avait l’habitude de voir des touristes, mais pas tous les jours quand même. En tous les cas, il n’était pas construit pour les touristes. Le mieux est d’y aller avec guide. On en trouve sans problème sur place. Après c’est une question de chance.
4- Pour le froid, nous avons eu quelques nuits froides, malgré nos damarts, sac à viande en soie, bonnets et gants, mais je crois que les duvets n’étaient pas très performants. Et puis ce n’était que quelques nuits.
5- Pour le guide, sans hésitation le Bradt. C’est de loin le meilleur mais il est en anglais. J’avais aussi acheté le Lonely Planet et là encore je suis d’accord avec Timaroulou : très décevant.
Bluequark
Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
Nous recherchons des infos de voyageurs ayant visité cette région sans 4X4 et en camping en juillet ou août. La conduite est-elle réellement dangereuse dans ce pays ? Est-il possible de voir de superbes paysages avec ce système ? Et les Himbas, des rencontres sont-elles possibles ? Les villages accessibles ? mais à quoi s'attendre : de l'authentique ou des visites spéciales "touristes" ? Et le froid, la nuit sous une tente ??? Quels guides lonely ou petit futé ? Merci d'avance à tous.
oui à toutes tes questions.
bon reprenons en détail : 4x4 ou non 4x4 ? pour un style de voyage ou pour les économies si tu couches à l'hotel le non 4x4 est suffisant le 4x4 est plus cher bien évidement
mais si tu couches sous la tente ça se discute, les véhicules non 4x4 équipés tente sur le toit ça n'existe pas ou très peu donc tente sur le sol et ça ça devient moins intéressant la tente sur le toit tu dors n'importe où : dans la flotte les caillasses etc... la tente au sol ? il faut un sol plat au minimum confortable c'est très différent.... le véhicule avec tente est en général un véhicule équipé aménagé spécialement avec 1 frigo des équipements de cuisine, tables chaises etc... l'arrêt de midi tu sors une salade grecques que tu a préparé vite fait avec des olives géantes qu'il n'en fait presque pas pour en faire une douzaine de la feta aux herbes diverses ... des salades de fruits et le soir tu t'arrêtes tu déplie ta tente en 1 minutes elle est large confortable tu ouvres le frigo et tu en sors une bière bien fraiche ou pour moi un grand verre de ce vin sud africain,
et tu fais silence et tu écoutes pousser tes cheveux...
et puis uen tente à terre moi je crains on a trouvé une vipère du gabon, et un mamba jaune écrasé sur la piste et un crotale vivant, en namibie, ça métonnerais qu'ils aient été importés pour l'occasion. Vers Kamanjab j'ai vu pas mal de scorpions....
bref à toi de faire un choix
bon les himbas : avant pour rejoindre opuvo fallait un 4x4 aujourd'hui on y va en véhicule de tourisme je me demande si op peut pas faire le trajet opuvo sesfontein en voiture de tourisme maintenant, y'avait des engins qui faisainet la piste en 2002...
bon toutes les populations du kaokoland connaissent les touristes maintenant faut pas se faire du cinéma, donc les villages près d'opuvo seront moins authentiques que ceux du fond de marienfluss mais à peine ....
y'a pas une génération d'écart...
par contre le 4x4 te permettra d'aller tout seul dans un village reculé et de passer la nuit dans le village ou à la porte de celui ci.
penser à apporter qq chose : riz café huile et surtout un cadeau personnalisé pour le chef ou ses femmes moi ça a été une pipe pour le chef,
bon mes pages sont en cours de refection, mais vous pouvez toujours bookmarker http://www.himba.fr en plus du site principal
vala
le guide ?? le meilleur ? pour moi c'est voyage forum ! disponible sur tous les navigateurs 😉
oui à toutes tes questions.
bon reprenons en détail : 4x4 ou non 4x4 ? pour un style de voyage ou pour les économies si tu couches à l'hotel le non 4x4 est suffisant le 4x4 est plus cher bien évidement
mais si tu couches sous la tente ça se discute, les véhicules non 4x4 équipés tente sur le toit ça n'existe pas ou très peu donc tente sur le sol et ça ça devient moins intéressant la tente sur le toit tu dors n'importe où : dans la flotte les caillasses etc... la tente au sol ? il faut un sol plat au minimum confortable c'est très différent.... le véhicule avec tente est en général un véhicule équipé aménagé spécialement avec 1 frigo des équipements de cuisine, tables chaises etc... l'arrêt de midi tu sors une salade grecques que tu a préparé vite fait avec des olives géantes qu'il n'en fait presque pas pour en faire une douzaine de la feta aux herbes diverses ... des salades de fruits et le soir tu t'arrêtes tu déplie ta tente en 1 minutes elle est large confortable tu ouvres le frigo et tu en sors une bière bien fraiche ou pour moi un grand verre de ce vin sud africain,
et tu fais silence et tu écoutes pousser tes cheveux...
et puis uen tente à terre moi je crains on a trouvé une vipère du gabon, et un mamba jaune écrasé sur la piste et un crotale vivant, en namibie, ça métonnerais qu'ils aient été importés pour l'occasion. Vers Kamanjab j'ai vu pas mal de scorpions....
bref à toi de faire un choix
bon les himbas : avant pour rejoindre opuvo fallait un 4x4 aujourd'hui on y va en véhicule de tourisme je me demande si op peut pas faire le trajet opuvo sesfontein en voiture de tourisme maintenant, y'avait des engins qui faisainet la piste en 2002...
bon toutes les populations du kaokoland connaissent les touristes maintenant faut pas se faire du cinéma, donc les villages près d'opuvo seront moins authentiques que ceux du fond de marienfluss mais à peine ....
y'a pas une génération d'écart...
par contre le 4x4 te permettra d'aller tout seul dans un village reculé et de passer la nuit dans le village ou à la porte de celui ci.
penser à apporter qq chose : riz café huile et surtout un cadeau personnalisé pour le chef ou ses femmes moi ça a été une pipe pour le chef,
bon mes pages sont en cours de refection, mais vous pouvez toujours bookmarker http://www.himba.fr en plus du site principal
vala
le guide ?? le meilleur ? pour moi c'est voyage forum ! disponible sur tous les navigateurs 😉
Petit guide pour la photo en voyage... en cours de rédaction..
Quand un sage me montre du doigt la lune, moi je m'en tape je continue de rêver aux étoiles.
Tu me fais penser à moi il y a plus d'un an. Je me suis posé toutes ces questions aussi. J'ai longuement parcouru le forum qui vaut bien tous les guides, fait mon voyage moi même et j'en suis revenu !!!
Prend le temps de lire les carnets de voyage (dont le mien 😉) et tu y verras beaucoup plus clair : 99, 99% de toutes les questions que tu pourrais poser y ont une réponse, D'autant plus que c'est à jour des derniers voyages faits cet été et en septembre.
Je suis sûr qu'après la lecture des carnets, tu reviendras avec des questions très précises...😎
Prend le temps de lire les carnets de voyage (dont le mien 😉) et tu y verras beaucoup plus clair : 99, 99% de toutes les questions que tu pourrais poser y ont une réponse, D'autant plus que c'est à jour des derniers voyages faits cet été et en septembre.
Je suis sûr qu'après la lecture des carnets, tu reviendras avec des questions très précises...😎
Vous êtes supers sur ce forum ! J'ai déjà grâce à vous pas mal de réponses, il ne me reste plus qu'à préparer l'itinéraire. Je vais me plonger dans les carnets de voyage. Pour la tente ou les lodges, on verra les sous... l'essentiel pour nous est d'aller voir cette nature qui a l'air superbe. Merci encore, Amicalement,
Dominique
Un des forumistes avait estimé que 4x4 + Tentes sur le toit revenaient au même, voire un peu plus cher que VL normal + lodge. Si cela est exact il convient de dire :
VL + lodge = nuits sereines et confort mais moins de rayons d'action car tu roules moins vite 4X4 + tente = Plus "d'aventures", de surprises, moins de confort, plus de "petites galères"...Mais surtout un énorme sentiment de liberté, de "Nous sommes seuls au monde !!!!" et de formidables soirées au coin du feu de camp avec un ciel étoilé de science fiction
Selon le nombre de jours que tu envisages, tu peux faire 4-7 nuits en tente et 1-2 en B&B ou lodge, histoire de faire un break dans un peu plus de confort et un peu moins de poussière....
VL + lodge = nuits sereines et confort mais moins de rayons d'action car tu roules moins vite 4X4 + tente = Plus "d'aventures", de surprises, moins de confort, plus de "petites galères"...Mais surtout un énorme sentiment de liberté, de "Nous sommes seuls au monde !!!!" et de formidables soirées au coin du feu de camp avec un ciel étoilé de science fiction
Selon le nombre de jours que tu envisages, tu peux faire 4-7 nuits en tente et 1-2 en B&B ou lodge, histoire de faire un break dans un peu plus de confort et un peu moins de poussière....
J'ai voyagé plusieurs fois en Namibie sans 4/4 et en camping sans aucun problème si ce n'est trop de monde à Etosha.
Les campings sont ds l'ensemble propres, bien équipés. Avec une tente et un sac de couchage correct je n'ai jamais eu froid en juillet aout, sauf la première nuit!! (pas encore acclimatée je suppose ). Bien sùr le soir il faut mettre 1 polaire mais je n'ai jamais mis de gants. Tu te réchauffe vite en faisant du feu pour le braii.
La conduite ne m'a jamais parue dangereuse, ni sur route, ni sur piste, mais il ne faut pas rouler la nuit.
Je n'ai pas été chez les himbas.
J'ai utilisé le lonely planet et le petit futé, il me semble qu'avec 2 guides on arrive à 1 résultat correct. Bon voyage
Les campings sont ds l'ensemble propres, bien équipés. Avec une tente et un sac de couchage correct je n'ai jamais eu froid en juillet aout, sauf la première nuit!! (pas encore acclimatée je suppose ). Bien sùr le soir il faut mettre 1 polaire mais je n'ai jamais mis de gants. Tu te réchauffe vite en faisant du feu pour le braii.
La conduite ne m'a jamais parue dangereuse, ni sur route, ni sur piste, mais il ne faut pas rouler la nuit.
Je n'ai pas été chez les himbas.
J'ai utilisé le lonely planet et le petit futé, il me semble qu'avec 2 guides on arrive à 1 résultat correct. Bon voyage
kili
Merci pour ces infos rassurantes, on va décider d'un itinéraire, quel endroit avez-vous préféré en Namibie ? Les plus beaux paysages ?
moi j'ai aimé la skeleton coast, le damaraland, le couloir de caprivi
swakopmund,
pêcher le requin à la ligne après capecross
je commence seulement de mettre en ligne de vielles photos
voici la page sur cape cross http://www.revafrique.com/carnets/namibie/capecross/
à sossulsvlei faut obligatoirement prendre la place de camping la plus loin près des dunes
faut obligatoirement aller voir dead vlei
vala
swakopmund,
pêcher le requin à la ligne après capecross
je commence seulement de mettre en ligne de vielles photos
voici la page sur cape cross http://www.revafrique.com/carnets/namibie/capecross/
à sossulsvlei faut obligatoirement prendre la place de camping la plus loin près des dunes
faut obligatoirement aller voir dead vlei
vala
Petit guide pour la photo en voyage... en cours de rédaction..
Quand un sage me montre du doigt la lune, moi je m'en tape je continue de rêver aux étoiles.
On va étudier tout ça mais au passage, une question "hors-sujet" car vous avez l'air de bien connaître l'Afrique : où sont les plus beaux paysages Namibie ou Tanzanie ? même si cela doit être très différent, nous avons pensé à ces deux destinations pour découvrir un peu d'Afrique et avons opté pour la Namibie, plus simple à faire en individuel, à ce qu'il paraît.
Et puis pour en revenir aux Himbas, on ne sait pas trop comment nous y prendre, on aimerait prendre le temps d'une rencontre, quelques jours et non quelques heures, arriver à pieds ? On ne veux pas non plus perturber, s'imposer via un tour organisé. C'est un projet qui nous tient à coeur, on se sait pas trop pourquoi, si vous avez idées, une expérience, on est preneurs. On aimerait avoir des contacts avec des personnes ayant passé du temps avec les Himbas. Merci d'avance.
Bonjour,
Pour ce qui est d'un séjour chez les Himbas, as-tu lu "Pieds nus sur la terre rouge" de Solenn Bardet ? L'écart entre nos cultures est grand et je ne pense pas qu'il soit si facile de s'intégrer pour quelques jours…
Nous avons visité un village à une trentaine de km d'Epupa où il semble, d'après les questions posées, qu'ils voient peu de touristes. Mais ils savent bien qu'on existe, évidemment ! Je ne suis pas sûr que l'approche à pied change grand chose. Ils sont bien contents de trouver une voiture pour les transporter au lieu de marcher !
Nous sommes passés devant des "villages pour touristes" un peu au Nord d'Opuwo et un peu avant Epupa.
A Epupa, le Omarunga Camp peut vous emmener en visite chez des Himba avec un 4x4 équipé avec des bancs comme pour un game drive. Beurk. À côté, au camp communautaire, des guides locaux (des Himbas qui ont appris l'anglais à l'école) vous emmènent de façon plus naturelle, mais au bout d'une heure dans le village, nous nous sommes demandé ce que nous faisions là.
Par comparaison, avec les Sans, près de Tsumkwe, le courant est passé beaucoup plus facilement.
Bonne préparation !
Pour ce qui est d'un séjour chez les Himbas, as-tu lu "Pieds nus sur la terre rouge" de Solenn Bardet ? L'écart entre nos cultures est grand et je ne pense pas qu'il soit si facile de s'intégrer pour quelques jours…
Nous avons visité un village à une trentaine de km d'Epupa où il semble, d'après les questions posées, qu'ils voient peu de touristes. Mais ils savent bien qu'on existe, évidemment ! Je ne suis pas sûr que l'approche à pied change grand chose. Ils sont bien contents de trouver une voiture pour les transporter au lieu de marcher !
Nous sommes passés devant des "villages pour touristes" un peu au Nord d'Opuwo et un peu avant Epupa.
A Epupa, le Omarunga Camp peut vous emmener en visite chez des Himba avec un 4x4 équipé avec des bancs comme pour un game drive. Beurk. À côté, au camp communautaire, des guides locaux (des Himbas qui ont appris l'anglais à l'école) vous emmènent de façon plus naturelle, mais au bout d'une heure dans le village, nous nous sommes demandé ce que nous faisions là.
Par comparaison, avec les Sans, près de Tsumkwe, le courant est passé beaucoup plus facilement.
Bonne préparation !
Pour le livre, je viens juste de le commander, j'ai aussi cet après-midi découvert l'association "Kovahimba", crée par Solenn Barbet. Je vais passer à Paris pour voir ce qu'il en est. C'est certain, ce n'est jamais évident et dans ce genre de rencontre il faut que cela soit intéressant pour chacun. J'ai fait parfois de belles rencontres avec des gens vivant à des années lumières de notre monde, mais souvent il faut du temps, de la chance, et beaucoup beaucoup de modestie. Je ne connais rien à l'Afrique, je vais essayer de rencontrer le maximum de gens qui connaissent cette région, on verra par la suite. Tous les avis me sont précieux, merci donc pour votre réponse.
Pour le livre, je viens juste de le commander, j'ai aussi cet après-midi découvert l'association "Kovahimba", crée par Solenn Barbet. Je vais passer à Paris pour voir ce qu'il en est. C'est certain, ce n'est jamais évident et dans ce genre de rencontre il faut que cela soit intéressant pour chacun.
ben c'est intéressant pour chacun : vous allez leur apporter des cadeaux et ils vont vous donner de l'exotisme 😛 faut quand même pas rêver sur les contacts possible tout est, et reste infiniment superficiel. mais ça reste une rencontre extraordinaire qu'il faut vivre en conscience moi j'ai éveillé leur curiosité avec le petit futé : y'avait la photo d'une nana qu'ils connaissaient ça a décoincé le climat je leur ai montré le plan d'un village himba mais j'ai rien noté et aujourd'hui j'aimerais bien me souvenir de leurs explications par guide interposé c'est une visite obligatoire vous serez un des derniers qui ait rencontré ces populations authentiques les sans ?? oui le contact est plus facile: ils sont touristsés
ben c'est intéressant pour chacun : vous allez leur apporter des cadeaux et ils vont vous donner de l'exotisme 😛 faut quand même pas rêver sur les contacts possible tout est, et reste infiniment superficiel. mais ça reste une rencontre extraordinaire qu'il faut vivre en conscience moi j'ai éveillé leur curiosité avec le petit futé : y'avait la photo d'une nana qu'ils connaissaient ça a décoincé le climat je leur ai montré le plan d'un village himba mais j'ai rien noté et aujourd'hui j'aimerais bien me souvenir de leurs explications par guide interposé c'est une visite obligatoire vous serez un des derniers qui ait rencontré ces populations authentiques les sans ?? oui le contact est plus facile: ils sont touristsés
Petit guide pour la photo en voyage... en cours de rédaction..
Quand un sage me montre du doigt la lune, moi je m'en tape je continue de rêver aux étoiles.
Pour moi, pas besoin de 4x4 pour une premiére visite !
Nous sommes allés pratiquement partout avec notre Toyota Corolla (3 crevaisons quand même)
Il faut juste rouler prudemment sur les pistes.Prevoir une bombe anti-crevaison (introuvable en Namibie),
Toutes nos crevaisons etaient superficielles.
à Sossusvlei, on peut emprunter des 4x4 de groupes (pas trés cher)
Au plateau de Watterberg, on ne peut pas monter avec son propre 4x4 de toute façon.
Il y a un point de vue à Fish river canyon qui n'est pas accessible si on a pas un 4x4, mais c'est tout.
Skeleton coast, jusqu'à Terrace bay, ça se fait dans probléme.
Par contre, il est deconseillé de rejoindre Etosha au plus court en partant de terrace bay sans un 4x4.
Là c'est 900 kms au lieu de 400 et quelques !😕
Un petit sujet photo sur mon voyage en Namibie qui débute en Afrique du Sud à Cape town http://www.photos-entre-amis.com/topic5214.html Il est loin d'être terminé mais on peut y voir des endroits interressant pour ceux qui preparent leur voyage à venir!
Un petit sujet photo sur mon voyage en Namibie qui débute en Afrique du Sud à Cape town http://www.photos-entre-amis.com/topic5214.html Il est loin d'être terminé mais on peut y voir des endroits interressant pour ceux qui preparent leur voyage à venir!
pour avoir un peu plus "d'authenticité" dans sa rencontre avec les Himbas il faut s'enfoncer dans les terres du kaokoland et éviter l'axe Opuwo-Epupa, mais là c'est 4x4 obligatoire et autonomie complète sur plusieurs jours.
Une bonne alternative rejoindre le nord par la piste puros, orupembe, 2 jours minimum mais les plus beaux paysages de Namibie au rendez-vous et des villages himbas peu ou pas fréquentés par les touristes.
quoi qu'il en soit le contact n'est pas très simple à cause de l'aspect voyeuriste de la chose et le dialogue quasi impossible à moins que tu n'apprennes le Himba avant de partir 😉
visiter un village "touristique" n'est pas forcément une mauvaise chose pour comprendre leur mode de vie et voir les démonstrations qui sont faites mais visiter un vrai village c'est autre chose
pour une première immersion sur ce continent magique tu as choisi l'un des plus beau pays qui soit.
moi je te conseille le 4x4 même s'il n'est pas obligatoire dans un circuit classique. Il offre plus de sécurité, plus de liberté, une plus haute garde au sol bien utile pour voir et photographier les animaux et surtout la possibilité de sortir justement des sentiers battus et rebattus...
mon carnet namibien est dans ma signature 😉
@ +
Botswana Zimbabwe 2011
Namibie 2012
Pour revenir sur les Himbas, une des difficultés est, au-delà des barrières culturelles, bien sûr la langue.
Le patron de l'Oreness Camp auprès de qui nous nous étions renseignés, nous avez proposé de nous indiquer des villages où l'on pouvait aller tout seul car quelqu'un y parlait l'anglais ou de nous présenter un guide (une guide en fait). Nous avons choisi la deuxième option craignant qu'un village avec quelqu'un parlant anglais soit hyper-touristique. Comme je l'ai déjà dit, nous sommes allés dans un village qui visiblement avait l'habitude de recevoir des touristes sans que ce soit pour autant une usine à touristes. C'était un vrai village qui accueillait à la marge des touristes : en cela, on peut dire que la visite était plutôt authentique. S'il est vrai que les échanges sont somme toute très limités, que tout cela reste plus que surperficiel et qu'au bout d'un moment on peut se demander ce que l'on fait là, cela reste une expérience marquante et à mon sens incontournable... à condition bien sûr de ne pas en attendre plus que ce que cela peut donner.
Mais ce qui m'a, au-delà de cette visite, le plus frappée chez les Himbas, c’est que les femmes sont habillées ainsi pour « de vrai » et non déguisées pour les touristes…même si une activité commerciale s’est établie autour. Quand nous y étions, il y avait beaucoup de femmes himbas en costume traditionnel dans Opuwo.... faisant leurs courses au supermarché, retirant des sous à l 'ATM, vivant leur vie tout simplement.
Une autre rencontre plus authentique ou du moins plus spontanée que la visite du village est, comme pour Pierre, lorsque nous nous sommes arrêtés entre Epupa et Opuwo et qu'une jeune fille de 12-13 ans accompagnée d'un garçon plus jeune est venue nous rejoindre. Là, c'est nous qui avons été dûment observés.
Le patron de l'Oreness Camp auprès de qui nous nous étions renseignés, nous avez proposé de nous indiquer des villages où l'on pouvait aller tout seul car quelqu'un y parlait l'anglais ou de nous présenter un guide (une guide en fait). Nous avons choisi la deuxième option craignant qu'un village avec quelqu'un parlant anglais soit hyper-touristique. Comme je l'ai déjà dit, nous sommes allés dans un village qui visiblement avait l'habitude de recevoir des touristes sans que ce soit pour autant une usine à touristes. C'était un vrai village qui accueillait à la marge des touristes : en cela, on peut dire que la visite était plutôt authentique. S'il est vrai que les échanges sont somme toute très limités, que tout cela reste plus que surperficiel et qu'au bout d'un moment on peut se demander ce que l'on fait là, cela reste une expérience marquante et à mon sens incontournable... à condition bien sûr de ne pas en attendre plus que ce que cela peut donner.
Mais ce qui m'a, au-delà de cette visite, le plus frappée chez les Himbas, c’est que les femmes sont habillées ainsi pour « de vrai » et non déguisées pour les touristes…même si une activité commerciale s’est établie autour. Quand nous y étions, il y avait beaucoup de femmes himbas en costume traditionnel dans Opuwo.... faisant leurs courses au supermarché, retirant des sous à l 'ATM, vivant leur vie tout simplement.
Une autre rencontre plus authentique ou du moins plus spontanée que la visite du village est, comme pour Pierre, lorsque nous nous sommes arrêtés entre Epupa et Opuwo et qu'une jeune fille de 12-13 ans accompagnée d'un garçon plus jeune est venue nous rejoindre. Là, c'est nous qui avons été dûment observés.
Bluequark
Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
Carnets : Namibie, Laos-Perhentias-BKK, Ouest US, Lanzarote, New-York, Berlin, Cuba, Bardenas Reales, AFS -Lesotho-Swaziland, Japon et le dernier né Colombie: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/ete-2017-trois-semaines-en-colmobie-en-famille-d10108246/
On va très certainement opté pour le 4X4 et mixer les hébergements, on a super apprécié votre carnet de voyage, on avait déjà très envie de découvrir ce pays, on est plus que convaincus. On va passer l'hiver à rêver de ces grands espaces. Pique-niquer au milieu de ces paysages cela doit être quelque chose. Habitués à l'Asie depuis plusieurs années cela va nous changer. Pour les Himbas, on va se documenter au maximum et on verra sur place, apprendre un peu la langue, on y pense.
Supers les photos, on attends la suite ! Merci pour votre avis sur la question 4X4.
Bonjour, nous avons fait la Namibie sans 4x4 et en mode camping durant 2 mois (+afs, botswana, vicfalls).
Peut etre trouveras tu des infos interressantes sur notre site qui retrace notre periple de l' été 2007.
http://www.arroukatchee.fr
a bientot.
a bientot.
bon vent à tous!!
voyage en Afrique Australe
Travel Southern Africa
superbe la photo; sympas ton site aussi🙂
cordialement
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Merci pour les infos, très bien votre blog, je commence à y voir plus clair, amicalement
On va très certainement opté pour le 4X4 et mixer les hébergements, //....// pour les Himbas, on va se documenter au maximum et on verra sur place, apprendre un peu la langue, on y pense.
c'est très bien AMHA
mon conseil : ne réservez rien
la liberté de vivre sans montre est certainement le plus grand luxe qu'on peut avoir en Afrique
j'ai entendu souvent dire : les blancs ont tous une montre mais aucun n'a le temps...
pour parler himba je ne crois pas que vous arriverez à grand chose à part moro, bonjour, mais ça vaut le coup quand même
je suis en train de fair un mini mini lexique pour ajouter dans mes pages mais c'est pas prêt encore....
c'est très bien AMHA
mon conseil : ne réservez rien
la liberté de vivre sans montre est certainement le plus grand luxe qu'on peut avoir en Afrique
j'ai entendu souvent dire : les blancs ont tous une montre mais aucun n'a le temps...
pour parler himba je ne crois pas que vous arriverez à grand chose à part moro, bonjour, mais ça vaut le coup quand même
je suis en train de fair un mini mini lexique pour ajouter dans mes pages mais c'est pas prêt encore....
Petit guide pour la photo en voyage... en cours de rédaction..
Quand un sage me montre du doigt la lune, moi je m'en tape je continue de rêver aux étoiles.
Log in first, then come back to this page.
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More discussions
Hi there,
Hope the pros are on the lookout!
March or May 2027. Around 15 days in the Western Cape, then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George. The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode... From George: Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1. Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna. Question: What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339. And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340. Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed? Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert? If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts? From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both). Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area? Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me... (For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...). Any feedback from the pros? Well, that’s about it... I’m open to any other tips or advice!
March or May 2027. Around 15 days in the Western Cape, then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George. The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode... From George: Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1. Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna. Question: What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339. And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340. Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed? Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert? If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts? From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both). Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area? Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me... (For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...). Any feedback from the pros? Well, that’s about it... I’m open to any other tips or advice!
Hi there,
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Thanks,
David
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Thanks,
David
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Hi there,
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Thanks in advance, and have a great evening! !
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Thanks in advance, and have a great evening! !
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations. Thanks for any feedback on this plan! Ailleurs 64
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations. Thanks for any feedback on this plan! Ailleurs 64
Hi,
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks. We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
Thanks in advance for your tips!!
Have a great day
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks. We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
Thanks in advance for your tips!!
Have a great day
Hi there,
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
Hi everyone!
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old. We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions: - How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?). - Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice. - I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that. - Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas! Gabriel
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old. We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions: - How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?). - Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice. - I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that. - Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas! Gabriel
Hi everyone!
I’m looking for a French-speaking local guide for July 2019. Would anyone have a contact there? No tour operators, please.
Thanks in advance!
I’m looking for a French-speaking local guide for July 2019. Would anyone have a contact there? No tour operators, please.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg. This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights). D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights) Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai). D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights). D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE). D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6. If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too. Thanks! 🙂
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg. This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights). D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights) Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai). D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights). D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE). D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6. If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too. Thanks! 🙂
Hi
Any feedback on the agency Mon Guide Zanzibar?
Hi everyone,
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland. Could you share any tips on: - the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar) - your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours - reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Thanks in advance!
Albin
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland. Could you share any tips on: - the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar) - your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours - reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Thanks in advance!
Albin
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are: - Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional - Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive - Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me. Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works... Thanks to everyone for your help. Bidule 27
When it comes to accommodations, the options are: - Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional - Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive - Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me. Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works... Thanks to everyone for your help. Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
Namibia raises park fees by 86 to 100 percent
Namibia raises park fees by 86 to 100 percent
Hello,
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature. 😊🦁
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature. 😊🦁
Hi everyone,
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa? As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult? We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :) We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend. See you on the road with Doddy
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa? As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult? We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :) We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend. See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route) D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this: - Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
Thanks for your help
D0 Arrival at JNB D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route) D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this: - Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
Thanks for your help
Hello everyone,
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective. First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...). That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on. The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start... During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.) The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance. Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page). Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective. First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...). That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on. The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start... During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.) The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance. Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page). Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water), – Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places, – Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly, – One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
--- Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments. Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored: – services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water), – hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments, – visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly, – one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment. To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone. Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water), – Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places, – Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly, – One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
--- Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments. Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored: – services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water), – hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments, – visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly, – one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment. To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone. Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Thanks so much in advance!
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Thanks so much in advance!
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?) Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 4: Full day in Tarangire Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome... Thanks
So far, the itinerary looks like this: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking: Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?) Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire Day 4: Full day in Tarangire Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome... Thanks
Hi everyone,
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
Thanks in advance! 😉
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
Thanks in advance! 😉
hi there
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works. I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!! I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh… Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car?? If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali? Thanks so much for your help… Best regards
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works. I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!! I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh… Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car?? If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali? Thanks so much for your help… Best regards
Hey everyone,
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be: - Hwange - Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona) - Mana Pools - Harare - Gonarezhou - Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be: - Hwange - Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona) - Mana Pools - Harare - Gonarezhou - Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
hi there
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work. I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts. So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza Ngenda Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas) Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions: -Is French still widely spoken? -Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info? -Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back? -Is it possible to go hiking solo? -Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share. Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work. I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts. So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza Ngenda Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas) Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions: -Is French still widely spoken? -Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info? -Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back? -Is it possible to go hiking solo? -Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share. Looking forward to exchanging more!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind. I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south: 14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie 17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza 20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara 22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants 25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere. 28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel. 29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance! Nicole Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind. I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south: 14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie 17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza 20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara 22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants 25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere. 28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel. 29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance! Nicole Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers. We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later) Pretoria – 2 days Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day Acornhoek – 1 day Letaba – 2 days Lobamba – 2 days Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days Cape of Good Hope – 1 day Stellenbosch – 1 day Hermanus – 1 day Mossel Bay – 2 days Oudtshoorn Wilderness – 2 days Knysna Port Elizabeth – 2 days Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions. We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers. We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering: Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later) Pretoria – 2 days Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day Acornhoek – 1 day Letaba – 2 days Lobamba – 2 days Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days Cape of Good Hope – 1 day Stellenbosch – 1 day Hermanus – 1 day Mossel Bay – 2 days Oudtshoorn Wilderness – 2 days Knysna Port Elizabeth – 2 days Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions. We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!