Après de nombreux mois de lectures assidues du forum, de potassage de guides, de consultations diverses,
j'ai fini par acoucher d'un projet que je souhaite maintenant soumettre à la sagacité du forum. Nous partons à 2 en amoureux, je compte louer un 4x4 genre
hilux simple cabine.
Les "?" marquent des hésitations sur les lieux de dodo ou autres. Les km sont mis à la louche.
Jour 0 : Paris -> Londres
Jour 1 : arrivée Windhoek, Windhoek Longiningi B&B
Jour 2 : Windhoek -> Mariental 260 km, Camp. Kalahari Anib Lodge
Jour 3 : Mariental -> Keetmanshoop 230 km, Camp. Quivertree Forest Restcamp
Jour 4 : Keetmanshoop -> Fish River Canyon 250 km, ?
Jour 5 : Fish River Canyon -> Namtib Biosphere reserve (Nord Aus), Camping
Jour 6 : Namtib Biosphere Reserve ->Tok Tokkie 140 km, nuit désert
Jour 7 : Journée trail
Jour 8 : 3ème jour trail/ -> Sesriem 110km, Camp. Sesriem Campsite
Jour 9 : Sossusvlei 200km, Camp. Sesriem Campsite
Jour 10 : Sesriem -> Walvis Bay/Swakopmund 250km, Welwitschia drive ?, fruits de mer ?, ?
Jour 11 : Walvis Bay/Swakopmund -> Spitzkope 160 km, Cape Cross ?, D1918 ?
Jour 12 : Spizkope -> région Twyfelfontein 240 km, ?
Jour 13 : région Twyfelfontein -> région Kamanjab 250 km, Rustig Toko ?, Cheetah Farm Kamanjab ?
Jour 14 : région Kamanjab -> Etosha 200km, Camp. Okaukuejo
Jour 15 : Etosha / Okaukuejo -> Halali 100km, Camp. Halali
Jour 16 : Etosha / Halali -> Namutoni 100km, Camp. Namutoni
Jour 17 : Etosha / Namutoni -> Grootfontein/ Roys's C. 220km, Camp. ou dur a Roy's Camp.
Jour 18 : Grootfontein/ Roy's C. ->Divindu 460km, Camp. N'Gépi ?
Jour 19 : mokoro et réserve Mahango, Camp. N'Gépi ?
Jour 20 : N'Gépi -> Kasane 450 km, Chobe River Lodge ?
Jour 21 : Kasane, Croisière sur le Chobe
Jour 22 : Kasane, Départ pour la Zambie/ Chutes Victoria (taxi ou transport collectif), ?
Jour 23 : petit déjeuner en haut des chutes ?, Retour à Kasane, Chobe river lodge ?
Jour 24 : Kasane -> Ihaha camp.
Jour 25 : Ihaha Camp. ->Savuti
Jour 26 : Savuti -> Kwhai, Mboma Camp. ?
Jour 27 : 1) Kwhai, Mboma Camp. -> 3rd bridge ou 2) trip mokoro sur avec nuit sur ile depuis Mboma Camp.
Jour 28 : 1) 3rd bridge -> Maun ou 2) Kwhai/ Mboma Camp. -> Maun
Jour 29 : Maun-> Windhoek, Longiningi B&B, fondue Bushmen le soir ?
Jour 30 : Windhoek -> Paris
Je suis preneurs de tous les commentaires que vous pourrez avoir, en particulier s'il y a des manques
criants et cruciaux, des redondances ou des longueurs, des choses un peu trop ambitieuses...
Par avance merci, et merci aussi à ceux qui m'ont déjà aidé et aider à décider de certaines grandes lignes de ce voyage !
les fruits de mer à swakop, j'ai payé cher et pas bon,
cuisine allemande, étouffe voyageur,
sauf un resto qui m'a semblé bien mais pas testé
à swakop le soir faire une ballade en quad au soleil couchant
un must. (collinne du moto cross 9 km après swakop en direction de walwis
moi je laisserais tomber fish river canyon, beaucoup de route pour peu.
Petit guide pour la photo en voyage... en cours de rédaction..
Quand un sage me montre du doigt la lune, moi je m'en tape je continue de rêver aux étoiles.
salut,
je suis d'accord avec vieux campeur, c'est dommage d'avoir la chance de pouvoir disposer d'un mois sur place et d'éluder complètement le kaokoland, la région la plus belle de Namibie.
pour les fruits de mer, le raft, mais c'est à walwis bay
Ca m'a l'air super. Je ferais juste 2 commentaires : à Walvis Bay, il faut aller jusqu'a Sandwich Harbour à travers les dunes du désert. On est obligés de prendre un guide (impossible avec son véhicule 4x4 perso), c'est cher, mais c'est génial ! Un tour en bateau pour voir les baleines et dauphins, c'est sympa ! à Moremi, il faut aller jusqu'à Xakanaxa. C'est clairement la meilleure partie de Moremi ! Un repère de lions et léopards.
http://voyageur.over-blog.com
Ok, tout ça est bien noté... En effet, le nord, ça manque... J'aimerais bien en effet essayer de faire la boucle Purros -> Orupembe -> Opuwo et redescendre en suite, mais je pense que pour arriver à faire tout ça, il va falloir que je fasse sauter Tok Tokkie... Mais bon, d'un certain côté, le côté seul au milieu de nulle part je l'aurais aussi, et puis à quoi ça sert de louer un 4x4 si c'est pour pas s'en servir.
J'avais quand même une "hésitation" : j'ai eu quelques très mauvaises expériences de rencontre de la population locale en Amérique du Sud (dans le sens où je me suis senti très très mal à l'aise dans le rôle du mec qui débarque dans un village ou tout le monde espère récupérer une pièce à la fin, et où les gens sont transformés en attraction...). Je ne suis pas toujours très à l'aise dans ce genre de situation, et je me demandais si le meilleur service à rendre à ces gens c'était pas de les laisser tranquilles sans venir les polluer avec nos sous et notre mode de vie... Qu'en est-il vraiment de ce coin nord de la Namibie ? J'ai cru comprendre qu'Opuwo était assez désespérant, mais...
Merci en tout cas pour vos conseils, je vais tenter de préparer une nouvelle mouture.
Nous n'avons pas été non plus voir les himbas pour les mêmes raisons que toi...pourtant tout le monde semble ravis...je ne sais pas. Le fish River canyon souvent dénigré, nous a plus : les paysages autour varis par rapport au reste de la Namibie, le canyon est impressionnant (peut être redondant si on a déjà vu le grand canyon aux USA...), le canyon lodge était très bien et de prix raisonnable pour un lodge (700ND par personne).Pour le restau à Swakopmund nous avons été à Cape to Cairo, pas cher et vraiment très bon (T bone de 500g).
Bonne préparation et bon voyage !
Bonjour
bien que cela ne concerne pas trop l'itinéraire que tu as projeté
Voici mon expérience de 4x4 equipé camping avec tentes de toit chez Asco Car Hire a Windhoek
Bel aspect des véhicules, mais assez fatigués au niveau mécanique.
Equipement de camping complet et satisfaisant
voir ma page : http://francois.leroux.free.fr/namibia
Le 4x4 n'est a mon avis indispensable que si tu sors des pistes principales qui sont très roulantes.
Et un 4x4 ne prend tout son sens que si tu fais du camping (sauvage...)
Sinon... une voiture normale me semble suffisante
Je t'envoie le lien sur mon carnet de voyage de fin 2006. Tu pourras trouver des infos qui t'intéressent sur la partie du trajet en namibie. Nous étions aussi à 2 en location de voiture mais en 2x4, et nous sommes partis du cap, sans aller au botswana
http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=895952;
Si tu vas sur mon site : www.la-vie-est-belle.be, tu verras notre parcours avec photos en Namibie et Botswana.
Bon choix de louer un 4X4 avec équipement et tente de toit, les bivouacs sont faciles et géniaux ...
A grootfontein, va plutôt au camping le Maori et profites-en pour y acheter de la viande et la cuire au BBQ dispo dans le camp. Ne vas surtout pas chez Die Kral !
Les himbas, c'est top mais attention à ne pas tomber dans les arnaques pour touristes.
Voilà, si tu vas voir les photos et que tu veux plus d'infos, écris moi et je te fournirai les infos si je les ai.
A+
Daniel
Catherine, Daniel et 4 enfants en land rover autour du monde
www.la-vie-est-belle.be
Ton choix de voyage est excellent, j'ai parcouru 5 fois la Namibie, y compris le Botswana et la Zambie, les chutes Victoria.
En premier, n'oublie pas ton permis auto international et quand tu descends de l'avion à Windhoek, prends un carnet : Welcom Namibia, toutes les adresses de lodge y sont inscrites, c'est vraiment très utile.
Pour moi descendre dans le sud serait une grosse bêtise, il n'y a pas grand chose à voir !! Il vaut mieux aller vers le nord pour voir les Himba c'est indispensable et la plus importante en Namibie
Si tu dois dormir à Windhoek, je te conseille d'aller dormir au Caméléon : chambres communes et individuelles, ce n'est vraiment pas cher et en plus c'est près du centre.
Voici quelques propositions :
1. Windhoek -> Rehoboth -> D1206 Kobos -> Rietoog -> D854 Lodge Betesda pour domir, pour visiter Sesriem et Sossusvlei car dormir là-bas coûte très cher (pour arriver aux dunes ce n'est plus une piste mais du macadam, dommage. Mais c'est vraiment à ne pas manquer).
2. Direction Swakopmund en passant par Solitiare, stop obligatoire !! A Swakopmund, fais attention au RADAR mobile, c'est pas une blague !! Pour dormir, je te conseille la direction du Golfe, au camp : Sophia Dale (www.sophiadale.com).
3. Direction Cape Cross, tu peux prendre plus loin que Cape Cross, la D2303 et puis la D2342 qui t'amènes à Uis, car la C35 est très monotone.
4. A Twylfelfontein, au carrefour de la D2612 et de la C39, juste en face il y a un très bon lodge dont malheureusement j'ai oublié le nom.
5. A ne pas sourtout pas louper, les chutes Epupa donc direction Opuwo par la C43 et là tu peux d'arrêter à plus ou moins 70 KM de Sesfontein, chez mon ami Marius au camp Aussicht où tu seras très bien accueilli. Si tu y passe, remet lui le bonjour de Johnny et Carine.
6. Aux chutes Epupa, direction Ruacana par la C34 -> D3701 vers le logde :Eha lodge (www.ruacanaehalodge.com.na) camp 45 dn.
7. Vers Etosha la C35 Outjo, dormir Ombinda Country Lodge camp 55 dn Etosha pas loin mais pour rentrer il vaut mieux être là tôt car tu paieras toujours une journée entière. A Etosha Halali super point de vue pour dormir.
8. Direction vers Caprivi camp Mahangu Safari Lodge 50 dn.
9. Vers les chutes Victoria Chobe park pour dormir et une journée de visite pour 1 personne 370 pula si tu veux voir les chutes Victoria il vaut mieux y aller par la Zambie car c'est moins cher que via le Zimbabwe.
J'espère que mes renseignements pourront t'aider et donne moi de tes nouvelles. Si tu passes par chez Marius et Mariette (camp Aussicht) n'oublie pas de remettre le bonjour, il te parlera certainement de moi.
PS : Il est toujours très agréable pour les gens du pays de recevoir une bouteille d'eau et donc quand tu vides une bouteilles plastic, rempli celle-ci d'eau (du robinet) dans un logde pour leur donner.
Pour le billet d'avion renseigne-toi également en passant par Istanbul, car j'ai rencontré des italiens en Namibie qui sont passé par là car c'était nettement moins cher. Pour mon prochain retour en Namibie je pense passer par là.
Je rentre juste de mes vacances en France (je bosse à Dubai en ce moment), je vais me remettre bientôt à potasser tout ça.
Il y a des commentaires dans mon guide (Bradt pour ne pas le nommer) et sur le forum qui recommandent quand même très fortement la route qui remonte depuis Aus jusqu'à Sesriem (je n'ai plus le numéro en tête). C'est ce qui me retenait encore dans le sud. Est-il préférable de complètement tout supprimer et de fracer la route directe le premier jour entre Windhoek et Sesriem pour avoir le plus de temps possible pour aller à Purros et/ou Epupa ?
Est-il possible de ne passer que 2 nuits à Etosha si ça peut permettre de libérer une nuit pour boucler correctement un tour dans le nord ? Je me dis que je risque de voir des bébêtes aussi au Botswana, même si évidemment ce ne sera pas pareil...
Dans tous les cas, je ne manquerai pas de tout raconter à la fin !
Ton itinéraire est assez bien bien équilibré. Faute de temps, je n'ai pas fait le Kaokoland. Je m'aperçois depuis que pour bien le faire, il faut au moins 4-5 jours et prendre son temps pour esperer des rencontres "authentiques".
Pour les chutes Victoria, je crois comprendre que tu y passes la nuit. J'ai campé au Waterfront zambeizi lodge qui est à 4 km des chutes et non loin d'un petit aérodrome à ULM (pour survoler les Chutes), c'était pas mal. Je te conseille ABSOLUMENT d'aller voir les chutes côté Zimbabwe. Voit-les d'abord côté Zambie et consacre une bonne demi journée (minimum) côté Zim : C'est beaucoup plus grandiose. Pour y aller à pied, jete un coup d'oeil sur mon carnet de voyage (tu pourras y glaner quelques autres renseignements sur les destinations communes)
J'ai fait Etosha-Divundu en une journée sans problème ( la route est bonne) pour gagner du temps et campé au Goabacca camp qui était très isolé avec une belle vue sur l'Okavengo et les popa falls et plus rapidement atteignable que NGEPI qui t'oblique à refaire la route en sens inverse (environ 15 km de pistes) le lendemain. Le Goabacca camp est à 4 km de la route principale.
moi je laisserais tomber fish river canyon, beaucoup de route pour peu
On a pas du voir le même endroit !
Pour moi, un des plus beaux endroits que j'ai vu en Namibie !
Sans aucun conteste !
Majestueux, et en aucun cas je n'ai regretté ces kilométres parcourus pour voir ça.
D'ailleurs si je retourne par là, assurement, j'y retournerais pour prendre le temps de descendre et voir ça d'en bas !
Et de belles ballades aux environs du Canyon à faire avec plein d'animaux et de flores.
Pour Etosha, pour moi, 1 jour et 1 nuit et tu peux dormir à Halali, c'est le meilleur endroit pour voir les animaux d'en haut.
Tu as raison, tu dois passé par Puros D3707, le camping à Puros est très bien et tu verras les troupeaux d'éléphants.
Continues la boucle jusqu'à Orupembe et Kaoko Otavi. Donc tu pourras passé plus de temps au Bostwana pour visiter le parc Chobe.
Si tu as besoin d'autres renseignements, dis le moi !
Loin d'être des spécialistes de la région, nous avons cependant fait un voyage en Namibie et au Botswana il y a moins d'un an. Nous privilégions le temps passé dans des endroits pour lesquels un coup de coeur s'est produit, sans un programme défini. C'est une autre approche, je sais et tu en trouveras quelques images dans les rubriques concernées sur notre blog. Pour moi les points forts ont été :
Etosha : nous avons vraiment vu une grande concentration d'animaux
Sesriem : paysages très particuliers
Chutes Victoria : voir le Zam et puis le Zim, comme le conseille un autre intervenant
Le safari nautique sur la rivière Chobe : une manière particulière de s'approcher de très pres des animaux
J'ai mon carnet sous la main, si tu as besoin de renseignements récents sur les prix.
Bonne préparation.
Véro
J'ai maintenant réservé mes billets d'avion... l'aventure a donc un peu commencé.
J'ai également modifié un peu mon itinéraire pour inclure Purros et un éventuel détour par Orupembe jusqu'à Opuwo.
Fort de mes convictions, j'ai également contacté Tourmaline pour m'aider à gérer les réservations, la voiture, etc. J'avais déjà eu un contact avec eux qui m'avait donné bonne impression.
Mais voilà, je suis maintenant dans la situation du "touriste content de lui à qui on a cassé son jouet". En effet, ils me répondent directement que sans une très solide expérience de conduite de 4x4, il ne faut surtout pas faire la traversée Ihaha->Savuti->Moremi->Maun, qu'ils obligent même normalement les gens à le faire avec un guide botswanais... Autant dire que si c'est vraiment ça je ne sais même pas si je vais y aller, je n'ai pas le budget de me payer un guide pendant une semaine et ce n'était pas non plus le genre d'expérience que je recherche.
Je n'ai certes pas une "très solide expérience", mais j'ai déjà conduit ce genre d'engin dans du sable et du chemin, j'ai beaucoup conduit sur pistes en Argentine (en voiture normale), je pense connaitre les basiques de la conduite tout terrain (dégonflage des pneus dans le sable, vitesse courte et blocage des différentiels en cas de pépin), et surtout, j'ai lu et relu tous les témoignages des gens du forum, qui m'avaient finalement convaincu de tenter l'aventure, alors que j'étais plutôt réticent à la base... Je ne suis pas un casse-cou, et dans le doute quand je ne sais pas j'ai plutôt tendance à rester sage qu'à me jeter dans la gueule du loup. Pour finir j'habite en ce moment à Dubai, et un stage de conduite dans le sable ne devrait pas être trop dur à trouver.
Comme il me semble que nombre de forumistes ont utilisés les services de Tourmaline pour organiser leur trajet, je souhaitais savoir si vous aviez eu ce genre de réponse et comment la situation s'était resolue ?
Je me sens un peu "pris au piège", étant donné que je ne peux pas trop faire le rustre et ne pas donner suite à leur message (et je n'en ai pas envie), mais d'un autre côté je me doute qu'ils sont aussi dans leur rôle qui est de ne pas envoyer au casse pipe des gens inconscients qui vont rouler à toute berzingue dans le sable et se mettre l'air au premier virage...
Voilà, encore un long message, merci de m'avoir lu, et je suis toujours preneur de conseils plus que jamais !
Salut,
Je suis allé au Botswana pour visiter le Botswana il ne faut pas spécialement un guide mais une bonne carte et une autorisation fournie par l'agence de location du 4X4 pour passer la frontière. Pour toi, il faut aussi un visa que l'on peut acheter sur place. Les pistes du Botswana sont bonnes mais il faut faire plus attention au animaux car ils sont plus nombreux qu'en Namibie. Si l'agence t'oblige à prendre un guide je peux te conseiller une autre agence "African Tracks" ou je loue toujours mes 4X4 et avec eux il n'y a pas de problème. Si tu veux d'autres renseignements, je suis à ta disposition. En ce qui me concerne, je repars fin de cette année en Namibie avec ma famille.
PS : pour info, peux-tu me dire combien a coûté ton billet d'avion car en Belgique c'est plus ou moins 1200 euros pour la période de fin d'année.
En espérant avoir de tes nouvelles.
En fait j'ai finalement réussi à me débrouiller avec Tourmaline pour me faire un bon trajet, je suis maintenant tout à fait satisfait. Il est vrai qu'ils sont très pros (en tout cas jusqu'à maintenant !). Je raconterai tout ca une fois revenu !
Tout ou presque a pu être réservé (sauf Ihaha, bien évidemment, déjà complet en janvier pour septembre !), mais j'ai laissé les deux nuits libres et je tenterai de m'incruster directement sur place, j'ai cru comprendre que pas mal de monde faisait ça. J'espère que fin septembre ça passera.
Pour le billet d'avion: j'ai un trajet Londres Gatwick <-> Windhoek aller/retour, que j'ai payé 750€ / personne, acheté le 15 janvier pour un aller le 02 septembre et retour le 01 octobre. Il faut donc rajouter l'eurostar, mais les billets d'eurostar achetés longtemps avant ne sont pas si chers, et donc je trouve que c'est plutôt un bon deal dans l'ensemble ! Vol direct, pas de changements risqués à Jonhanesbourg, etc.
Pour compléter la réflexion des cultures locales :
les himbas, nous sommes allés voir avec un guide une communauté dans le nord du pays, après 5 min, nous nous sentions vraiment pas à notre place, comme nous vouloins écourter, les himbas demandèrent à notre guide pourquoi nous ne prenions pas de photos !!!!!
Il faut savoir aussi que ce guide nous a demandé d'apporter des cadeaux à cette communauté, par contre c'est lui qui a fait les courses, avec entre autre du tabac.
Nous étions si désolés que nous ne le ferons plus jamais, nous nous sommes senti trés mal car tout est mis en scène, les ethnologues et les anthropologues sont arrivés bien avant nous........
Aimerions-nous être photographié par ............qui vous voulez d'ailleurs.....
Notre simple avis, sachez que notre guide (livre) nous confirmait bien que du côté des san il se passait la même chose, et que quand des "tv "venaient faire des reportages sur ce peuple, elles les payaient afin qu'ils s'habiellent de façon traditionnelle
Voilà, voilà. Mais ce n'est que mon avis
Bonnes vacances en tous cas. Nous y sommes restés 1 mois et avons aimé, suis d'accord pour Opuwo (--) et pour Fish River Canyon (++)
ce qui est possible est déjà fait, ce qui est impossible le sera
Faut pas rêver....La rencontre "authentique" avec des peuples si différents de nous, n'existe pas dans le cadre de voyage touristique. Sauf pour Muriel Robin peut être.
Pour cela il faudrait pouvoir rester un long moment pour apprendre à se connaitre..à s'apprivoiser mutuellement. Cela ne peut être que des rencontres basées sur un échange commercial : un peu d'exotisme contre remunération. Où alors, pour être réelle, elle doit être fortuite..presque accidentelle...alors là peut être, il peut se passer quelque chose.
Où alors, pour être réelle, elle doit être fortuite..presque accidentelle...alors là peut être, il peut se passer quelque chose.
Pour commenter votre propos :
Nous avons quitté Epupa alors que le jour se levait. Sur la piste cheminaient une femme Himba avec un petit baluchon et sa petite fille. Nous nous sommes arrêtés pour leur donner un petit bidon d'eau et des gâteaux secs.
Et là, seuls au milieu de ce paysage fabuleux éclairé par le soleil levant, elle s'est mise à chanter en exécutant une petite danse. Quel merveilleux cadeau pour nous !!!
Pour nous c'était au bord de la piste d'Epupa, sûrement dans le même secteur que Miesele. Lors d'un pique-nique un groupe d'enfants de 7 à 13 ans environ nous a rejoint et nous avons passé une bonne demi-heure à échanger (ou essayer !) par gestes et petits dessins. Bonne rigolade et grand souvenir…
Bonjour,
notre avis sur les J10-J14 suite à notre séjour de février.
J10 : Sesriem-Walvis 4h de route. Vous pouvez donc faire 1/2j en croisière ou en 4x4 à Sandwich Harbour, plutôt que la welwitschia car vous aurez assez conduit le matin. Entre les 2, je suis incapable de choisir
J11 :Walvis-Cap Cross 1h puis Cap Cross-Spitzkoppe (2h). Avec les Vlei, le plus beau site de notre voyage. Le camping est hyper sauvage mais sans eau. Les capmsite n° 4 et 5 sont à notre goût les plus beaux car à côté du Bridge et avec la vue sur le Spitzkoppe et les monts Pondoks
J12 : Spitzkoppe-Twyvel (3h)
J13 et 14 : si vous n'allez pas dans le nord et que vous cherchez 1 jour de rab, vous pouvez le gagner en allant directement à Etosha. On s'est arrêté au Cheetah de Kamanjab. Evidemment, c'est un drôle de moment que de caresser un guépard mais à choisir, je préfère 1/2 j de plus à Walvis ou à Etosha ou dans le nord si vous y allez.
Bon voyage
J11 :Walvis-Cap Cross 1h puis Cap Cross-Spitzkoppe (2h).
??? Walvis Bay-Cap Cross = 150 km (dont 110 de piste en sel +terre certe très roulable) et la traversé de Swakopund.... Le tout en 01H00 ? tu avais quoi comme véhicule ??? 😉 Nous on a mis un chouia plus de 2 heures
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Nous revenons de dix jours en Tanzanie. Nous avons eu la chance d’être guidés par Gishaman. Toujours de bonne humeur, bon conducteur et très bon guide. Grâce à lui nous avons eu la chance de voir non seulement les big5 en une journée mais aussi plein d’autres animaux. Il travaille pour l’agence locale Blit Safaris qui a assuré un très bon suivi de notre voyage. À conseiller !
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards