Bonjour, cela fait une dizaine de jours que je suis rentré et vu que tout est encore frais, j'en profite pour raconter mon voyage se déroulant sur trois semaines.
Tout d'abord voici le lien des sujets de discussion que j'avais lancé :
J'étais très inquiets quand j'avais écrit ces messages car je me posais plein de question dont je ne trouvais aucune réponse sur internet, maintenant cela me fait rire car sur place tout s'est bien passé.
PREMIERE ETAPE : CREATION DE L'ITINERAIRE
J'avais plusieurs choses à prendre en compte :
-Mon ami qui vit en afrique du sud partait le 28 aout de ce pays
-Le VISA de mon ami se terminait le 8 aout
-Les vacances de mon ami commencent le 31 juillet, les miennes aussi
J'ai donc acheté un vol aller le plus tot possible en aout et retour le 28. Car je ne voulais pas rester seul en Afrique du Sud (par peur, et car c'est plus pratique aussi).
Pour l'achat des vols, je voulais :
-Le prix le plus bas, mais...
-Un vol avec une escale où je peux sortir et visiter le lieu
-Arriver à Johannesburg mais partir du Cap
J'ai finalement pris un vol aller avec Emirates pour le 3 aout et un vol retour avec Qatar Airways pour le 28 aout. Le tout m'a coûté environ 925 EUR. J'aurais pu trouver moins cher avec d'autres compagnies comme Egyptair ou KenyanAirways mais c'était des vols avec escales très courtes. J'ai donc préféré prendre des vols un peu plus chers (le moins cher que j'avais trouvé était 750 EUR mais en A/R de Johannesburg). Les vols sont tous au départ de Paris (là encore, ville européenne la moins chère que j'ai trouvée, j'avais regardé pour Francfort, Lyon, Rome ou encore Barcelone).
A Dubai et Doha, j'ai pris les escales les plus longues possibles. Dans les deux cas, j'arrive le soir et je repars le lendemain à 14h heure locale (je ne pouvais pas faire plus tard !).
Après avoir réservé le vol, un troisième ami s'est calqué sur les mêmes dates que moi et nous avions notre jour de départ et d'arrivée pour se voyage en Afrique du Sud.
Pour l'itinéraire, avec mon ami, nous avons choisi quels étaient les lieux qu'on voulait à tout prix voir. Mon ami vivant déjà en Afrique du Sud depuis six mois et sachant qu'il continuera à y vivre, savait que ce qu'il ne pourra pas voir durant ce voyage, il aura tout le temps de le faire.
Le premier projet, du moins, ce que mon ami avait proposé, était un itinéraire de Johannesburg au Cap en passant par la côte, la Garden Route, la route des vins, etc... ...En passant d'abord par le Kruger. Mais finalement, trois semaines étaient trop pour moi pour faire ce trajet et je voulais profiter du fait d'être en Afrique du Sud pour faire un tour aux chutes Victoria. Les problèmes de VISA de mon ami ont aussi chamboulé tout ça.
-Soit il reste en Afrique du Sud illégalement et quitte le pays depuis le Cap comme prévu et dans ce cas, on tente pas de traverser les frontières.
-Soit juste avant que sont VISA périme, on part à l'étranger et on voit s'ils le relaissent rentrer en Afrique du Sud.
On a opté pour la seconde solution.
Au final, on s'est fixés deux semaines pour faire une petite boucle en Afrique du Sud entre Johannesburg, le Lesotho, Saint-Lucia, le Swaziland et le Kruger. Pour faire la dernière semaine un long tour en bus jusqu'aux Chutes Victoria, pour retourner par la Namibie vers le Cap.
Voilà au final, l'itinéraire qu'on a fait, même si ce n'était pas exactement ce qui était prévu. Notamment à cause des problèmes de VISA. Je vais raconter tout ça dans le prochain message.
Mon TGV est arrivé à Charles de Gaule la veille : 2 aout au soir. J'ai pas osé prendre le train le jour même car on sait jamais, retard et patati, patata. Mon train du 2 aout a eu un retard d'une heure, j'étais content, ça m'aura fait une heure de moins à attendre dans l'aéroport. J'ai dormi sur un banc avec accoudoir et le lendemain j'ai pris mon vol qui décollait à 11h.
Le soir j'arrive à Dubai, je décide de passer la douane le plus vite possible, les douaniers me demandent juste pourquoi je vais à Dubai, je réponds que c'est pour visiter le temps de ma correspondance, tout va bien. Ils ne vérifient pas ma correspondance ni où je dors. J'ai dormi dans l'aéroport une nouvelle fois.
Le lendemain à 6h du matin, l'heure de démarrage du métro, je pars acheter un billet à la journée et je me fais un tour en métro, sans trop sortir car il fait très chaud. Le billet à la journée périme toujours à minuit, sinon je l'aurais déjà pris la veille pour me faire un tour le soir. A 8h50, je vais au Burj Kalifa pour monter au 124ème étage (j'avais déjà réservé mon billet sur internet pour 8h30, mais en fait c'est pas grave si on arrive en retard). Au sommet, on peut rester autant qu'on veut. J'ai quitté la tour un peu après 10h. Puis je suis allé faire un tour au Centre Commercial voir le SkiDubai (seulement le voir). Je suis rentré à l'aéroport à midi, j'aurais préféré avoir plus de temps pour continuer à faire un tour en métro.
Mon avion décolle à 14h, j'arrive le soir à Johannesburg, mes deux amis sont déjà là, ils ont passé la journée à l'aéroport pour m'attendre. On a récupéré la voiture de location et on a passé la nuit dans l'aéroport. Troisième nuit d'affilée pour moi dans un aéroport, sur trois continents différents. Le lendemain, on prend la voiture et direction le Lesotho, le VISA de mon ami va bientôt s'expirer, il faut faire vite !
On loge à Caledon, à la frontière du Lesotho et le lendemain on va faire un tour dans ce pays. On va skier à Afriski.
De retour en ADS, on lui donne 7 jous de VISA. Son VISA devait expirer le 8 aout, finalement vu qu'on était le 6 et qu'il a obtenu 7 jours, son VISA expire le 13 ! Les douaniers expliquent que cela se passera ainsi à chaque fois qu'il reviendra en Afrique du Sud. C'est chouette, tout va bien, on a prévu plus tard d'aller au Swaziland, on aura plus de problème de VISA désormais.
Le 7 aout, après deux nuits à Caledon, on décide d'aller à Amphitheatre Backpacker pour deux nuits encore. On y fera une randonnée dans le Drakensberg. Hélas, on ne verra pas l'Amphitheatre en question. On est passé par le Golden Gate Park comme conseillé sur le Forum. J'avoue avoir été un peu déçu, cela est dû au fait qu'on avait déjà vu pas mal de "canyon" ou de collines tabulaires sur la route et que celles à Caledon ou vers Ficksburg (on s'était trompé de chemin) nous avait déjà impressionné. Bref, on était déjà habitués !
Pour les hébergements, nous avons suivi le guide du routard. A Amphitheatre, nous avons rencontré pas mal de français et de réunionnais. On avait déjà rencontré des réunionnais à Afriski (station de ski la plus proche pour eux).
Ensuite, on a voulu aller directement à Saint-Lucia depuis Amphitheatre, mais finalement à cause de la journée de la femme (10 aout) et donc, du long week end, tous les hebergements étaient pris, vu que la route était longue, on a décidé de passer une nuit à Durban.
On a recroisé des français de l'Amphitheatre Backpacker dans l'auberge de jeunesse de Durban et on a fait un tour en ville, marcher sur la promenade littorale, on y a recroisé les français d'ailleurs. C'était très sympa cette promenade, très animée, très cosmopolite, très détendue.
Le lendemain, route pour Saint-Lucia, il a plu pendant le trajet. En arrivant dans l'auberge de jeunesse, on a croisé d'autres français qu'on avait déjà croisé à Amphitheatre. On est allés à l'estuaire voir les hippopotames et crocodiles, on y a recroisé les français d'ailleurs.
Le soir, on a fait un tour en ville voir les hippopotames. Et le lendemain, on a fait notre premier safari. On a vu des rhinocéros et des buffles. JE ME SUIS ENNUYE ! J'ai dormi pas mal dans la voiture, et le parc de saint-lucia m'a un peu dégoûté des safaris. On a croisé une famille de français qui étaient à leur troisième jour de safari dans ce parc et qui avaient déjà fait plusieurs jours de safari au Kruger, je dois avouer que c'était pas ma tasse, faire autant de jours de safari... ...Ce n'est que mon avis...
Le lendemain, on a fait un safari avec guide. On a été un peu déçus, on pensait vraiment être sûr de voir les big five, mais en fait non, c'est comme un safari normal sauf que c'est le guide qui conduit. On a vu un éléphant au loin, des rhinocéros, des girafes, des buffles, mais la belle surprise fut les guépards, on a eu beaucoup de chance, c'était le parc Hluhluwe.
Puis le 12, on a quitté Saint-Lucia pour aller vers le Swaziland, le VISA de mon ami allait s'expirer et puis il faut dire que ça me tentait pas de rester plus longtemps dans cette ville, on avait déjà fait deux safaris, ça me suffisait amplement.
Cette période du voyage a été un peu lassante, les deux safaris, comme dit précédemment m'ont déçu. Les premiers jours avaient été tellement denses d'activités : les paysages sur l'autoroute, la découverte de la conduite à gauche, faire du ski en Afrique, les randonnées... Ceci-dit, il y a eu des trucs très positifs :
-marcher le long de la promenade de bord de mer à Durban et voir l'océan indien
-voir les hippopotames se promener en ville à Saint-Lucia la nuit
-Voir les crocodiles à l'estuaire de saint-lucia à pied et avoir un petit peu peur
-Les guépards qui ont traversé la route devant nous et voir tous les 4x4 safari se pointer au même moment !
Au Swaziland, on a dormi la nuit du 12 au 13 à Big Bend dans un hôtel avec des chambres en forme de case. Très confortable.
On a voulu monter vers le nord pour passer la journée au Hlane Park (conseillé par le routard), mais finalement on s'est trompé de route et on a préféré aller vers Manzini. Surtout qu'on était pas trop motivé de se faire encore un parc safari.
Dans la capitale Mbabane, on a essayé d'aller voir le sanctuaire construit en l'honneur du roi, mais c'était payant. On y a renoncé. On est remonté au nord.
En retournant en ADS, mon ami a reçu un visa de trois jours pour qu'il aille se faire un vrai visa aux Homes Affairs (service d'immigration). Déçu de ne pas avoir ses 7 jours, il pense que c'est dû au fait que son précédent VISA (de 7 jours) n'est pas encore terminé. On était le 13, son VISA périmait le 14 à minuit. En vitesse, on est allé à Komatipoort (c'était prévu dans notre itinéraire). On est allés à la douane avec le Mozambique, mais là encore : "désolé mais on peut rien faire pour vous, allez aux Home Affairs".
Le lendemain, on a fait un tour au Kruger Sud, et c'était pas mal, on a mieux vu les animaux : éléphants, lions, un étang avec des antilopes et crocos. Après, on est retournés aux Home Affairs, là encore, impossible pour eux de faire quoi que ce soit, leur conseil : aller à l'étranger et revenir.
On hésite à retourner au Swaziland, pour y rester le temps d'expirer le peu de VISA qu'il lui reste, mais comme rester deux nuits au Swaziland ne m'interressait pas, on ne savait pas vraiment quoi y faire à part le Parc Hlane, on a décidé d'aller vers le Botswana.
On est passé par Prétoria qu'on a effleuré, puis ensuite direction le Parc Pilanesberg, parc sympathique, on a vu un éléphant traverser la route devant nous ! Puis on a fait un petit tour à Sun City, on a joué au Casino et on a gagné de quoi rembourser notre entrée à Sun City.
Le soir, on était au Botswana. La douane de sortie sud-africaine nous a dit que ce qu'on faisait n'était pas très légal et que c'était un peu profiter du système : le fait d'entrer et sortir à volonté pour récupérer des jours de VISA.
Le lendemain, petit tour à Gaborone et sortie par une autre douane. Le douanier voyant le voyage comme suspect (une nuit au Botswana c'est un peu bizarre c'est vrai), il comprend le problème de mon ami dont le vol est le 28, il lui donne un mois de VISA supplémentaire. Tout est résolu ! On peut retourner à Johannesburg pour aller rendre la voiture de location et continuer en bus.
A Johannesburg on est montés au sommet du Gratte ciel le plus haut d'Afrique.
Le soir même, on était dans le bus InterCape en direction pour les chutes victoria. Voyage très confortable, les douanes ont duré 5 heures. Les européens avaient une certaine priorités car ils prenaient plus de temps pour faire leur VISA.
On est arrivés à Bulawayo le 19 aout, on a laissé nos bagages dans l'agence Intercape (on leur fait confiance) puis on est allés faire un petit tour en ville. On a tenté de chercher des billets du Zimbabwe, ce qu'on a finalement fini par trouver en demandant aux vendeurs à la sauvette. Je suis très fier de mon billet de 100 trillions de dollars !
En fin d'aprem on prend le deuxième bus, il est moins confortable, mais le voyage se passe vite, il ne dure "que" 5 heures. Le soir on arrive à l'auberge grâce à un taxi envoyé par eux. On est content puis on regarde que faire le lendemain.
Fianlement, aux chutes, on ne décide de voir que les chutes, aucune autre activités Extra comme le saut en elastique ou le tour en hélico. Après avoir vu le Big Tree, on décide de passer la frontière à pied, on va en Zambie. Vu qu'on fait aucune activité, on n'a plus rien à faire au Zimbabwe.
En Zambie, notre billet de 100 USD n'est pas accepté car trop vieux (1993), on fera un change sur place (au noir) et le douanier ayant fini sa journée nous raccompagnera à l'auberge (pour 10 USD).
Le lendemain, rebelotte bus, pour 24 heures. On arrive à Windhoek avec 2 heures de retard ce qui nous laisse plus que deux heures d'attente. On fait un tour en ville et on repart en bus, pour Swakopmund.
Une famille ayant pitié de nous, décide de nous emmener chez eux pour utiliser leur internet et trouver une auberge. On dîne chez eux et il nous accompagne en ville vers l'auberge.
Le lendemain, à Swakopmund, saut en parachute et excursion à pied dans les dunes. C'est très faisable à pied depuis le centre-ville.
Puis on reprend le bus et on arrive au Cap après environ 24 heures de bus (un peu plus meme). Au Cap, on visite les trucs classiques : Montagne de la table, quartier malais, etc... Et on va faire un tour à Stellenbosch voir les bureaux où travaille mon ami.
Le 28, décollage ! Le voyage se termine, je passe une nuit dans l'aéroport à Doha que je visite dès le lendemain matin malgré les 45° ! Je dormirai à nouveau à l'aéroport de Charles de gaule et rentrerai chez moi le 30.
Ouf !
Tu as fait cet itinéraire... en seulement trois semaines? Combien de km et d'heures de route par jour en moyenne? Pas de problème pour aller au Zimbabwe avec une voiture de location?
Tu as fait cet itinéraire... en seulement trois semaines? Combien de km et d'heures de route par jour en moyenne? Pas de problème pour aller au Zimbabwe avec une voiture de location?
Je me suis posé la même question en voyant la carte du premier post, mais après lecture, il s'agit d'un tour autour de Joburg et des sauts de puce vers le Cap, Swakop et Vic Falls.
3 semaines bien remplies tout de même et beaucoup de chance en safari avec des guépards qui traversent la route à Hluhluwe.
Erwan
La vie est belle ! La vie est belle ! Je me tue à vous le dire disait la fleur. Et elle meurt ( J.Prévert)
Ca fait environ 8000 km (routes et parcs compris)
Du 5 au 17 compris : 3000 km environ => Ce qui est raisonnable
Du 18 au 25 comrpis : 5000 km environ => Ce qui fait 72 heures de route environ (et c'est beaucoup)
En fait, juste la dernière semaine a été chargée en route (du bus Intercape) de Johannesburg aux Chutes Victoria, de Livingstone à Swakopmund et de Swakopmund au Cap. La voiture de location est allée seulement en Afrique du Sud, Lesotho, Swaziland et Botswana (pour ces trois derniers pays, ils ont quand même vérifié si les papiers de la location nous autorisaient).
En pièce jointe, une comparaison du trajet en voiture de location par rapport à la taille de la France, trajet du 5 aout au matin au 18 aout.
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Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Hi,
I’m heading to Angola for two weeks starting mid-April and I’d like to rent a car to explore the country, but not a 4x4 to keep my budget in check. I plan to mostly stay in the western part and go as far as the Namibian border. Is it possible to drive in Iona Park without a 4x4, or to get to Kalendula or Piedra Negras? Also, is the Lubango–Huambo–Kuito–Malanje route doable in a city car? Lastly, do gas stations accept Visa?
Thanks for your feedback and tips!
Now that the Kruger part is (almost) wrapped up, I’m looking at the "Cape region" section.
The idea of spending 2 days (well, more like 2 nights and 1.5 days) in the Cederberg is really tempting 😎.
I’ve reread the posts about it—more or less (actually, more less than more)—and I still have quite a few questions:
- Where’s the best area to stay? Initially, I was looking at Kagga Kama, but I’m not sure if it’s worth the cost (or the trip, for that matter), or maybe Mount Ceder? Or somewhere else (without driving 6 or 8 hours from CT 😉)?
The plan is to get there in a sedan (if possible), see some beautiful landscapes, and do one or two hikes (nothing too tough 😛).
- I read that you need a permit to hike there... where do you buy it? (At the entrance, like in Kruger? 🤪)
- Is October a good time for the weather (theoretically...)?