Je retourne à Cuba, que j'adore. Mais mon amie et moi voulons éviter de nous retrouver, comme lors de notre 1er séjour, à suivre systématiquement le parcours obligé du touriste : à part 1 exception (le chauffeur du bus a été tellement surpris qu'il ne nous a pas fait payer...) nous avons sillonné l'île en collectivo (réservés aux touristes) ou bus Viazul (idem).
D'où ma question : qui a déjà voyagé ...normalement, comme dans tous les pays du monde ? C'est-à-dire avec les transports locaux (y compris "bétaillères" on s'en fiche)...
Vous avez des lignes collectives qui font un trajet defini entre villes empruntées par les cubains, le prix est en Cup. Un touriste peut les emprunté mais il sont souvent plein et les cubains apprécient peu , ils estiment que les touristes ont les moyens pour prendre les viazuls ou des taxis partagés
Merci de votre réponse, mais quelles st les compagnies et où les trouve t-on par ex à La Habana? Honnêtement ce que vous dîtes m'étonne ("es cubains apprécient peu"), ceux que nous avons eus comme co-passagers ds le bus où ns sommes montés par hasard étaient au contraire ravis d'accueillir des touristes, et très prévenants.
Vous avez des lignes collectives qui font un trajet defini entre villes empruntées par les cubains, le prix est en Cup. Un touriste peut les emprunté mais il sont souvent plein et les cubains apprécient peu , ils estiment que les touristes ont les moyens pour prendre les viazuls ou des taxis partagés
Je ne vous parle pas des cars , mais des taxis collectifs ou des camions qui font en province des liaisons entre ville et village
Les cubains sont toujours accueillants mais je peux vous dire qu'entre eux le jugement est dur pour les touristes qui occupent des places quand des cubains attendent sur le bord de la route le passage des heures de ces vehicules.
Je ne vous parle pas des cars , mais des taxis collectifs ou des camions qui font en province des liaisons entre ville et village
Les cubains sont toujours accueillants mais je peux vous dire qu'entre eux le jugement est dur pour les touristes qui occupent des places quand des cubains attendent sur le bord de la route le passage des heures de ces vehicules.
Alos, effectivement, si ça se passe comme ça, ce n'est pas la peine. Il n'est évidemment pas dans notreintention de leur rendre la vie (encore) plus difficile. Il n'y a pas de réseau de bus local? Comme celui qu'on a pris entre La Havane et la banlieue.
Vous avez les bus Astro qui font des liaisons équivalentes au Viazul, utilisé à peu près uniquement par les cubains beaucoup d'arret, confort moindre. Il y a quelques années ils etaient interdits aux touristes, ce n'est plus le cas.
Vous avez aussi les bus interregionaux
Ils se prennent aux teminaux interegionaux
Facile d'utiliser ces transports en camion-autobus. Ils sont presque toujours postés au terminaux d'autobus Viazul ou très près. En sortant du terminus vous pouvez les apercevoir. Pour les touristes, on préfère être payés en CUC. Les trajets prennent plus de temps à cause des arrêts fréquents en cours de route. Je l'avais fait de Bayamo à Camaguey en mettant mon vélo à l'intérieur pour 10CUC en plus de 4 heures. J'étais fatigué de voir des champs de cannes à sucre comme paysage.
Le hic avec ce transport est qu'il n'a pas d'horaire fixe. Il part quand il est presque plein. Si vous n'êtes pas pressé par le temps ça vous conviendrait probablement. Je vous inclue une photo prise de l'intérieur de celui que j'avais pris à Bayamo.
Pour précision, les seuls transports reservés aux non Cubains sont les bateaux. Tous les autres transports sont accessibles aux Cubains.
Aux dernières nouvelles, Astro est encore réservé aux Cubains, j'aimerais voir la source qui mentionne que les touristes peuvent les prendre. Ce serait une bonne nouvelle pour les touristes, mais pas pour les Cubains car les places Astro sont rares et il faut réserver longtemps à l'avance.
Je croyais comme vous que les Astro étaient uniquement réservé aux cubains.
Mais l'année derniere nous avons rencontré un couple de français qui utilisait la casa voisine qui avait pris l'Astro pour venir à Baracoa. Ils nous ont assuré qu'il n'avait rencontré aucun problème pour utiliser cette compagnie
Comme à Cuba tout peut changer rapidement pourquoi pas. L'exemple des Campismo réservés aux cubains qui depuis 2 ou 3 ans acceptent les touristes.
A mon prochain voyage, je vérifierai et j'informerai sur cette solution
Euh, non, les Cubains ne peuvent pas prendre les bateau, quel qu.ils soient, même s'ils habitent à l'étranger...
Et je connais quelques exemples d'étrangers qui ont pris Astro, mais le chauffeur s'est pris le prix du billet dans la poche, alors ce n'est rien d'officiel...
Désolé les cubains peuvent maintenant prendre un bateau
Je crois même que Granma en a fait état
Avez-vous un lien qui confirme votre information? Je n'ai rien trouvé sur Granma ou ailleurs à cet effet. Et il y a quelques semaines, on discutait sur Cubaamor du fsit que les Cubains ne peuvent toujours pas prendre de bateau à moteur, même s'ils résident à l'étranger... alors je suis bien surprise de ce que vous affirmez.
Sur le forum du Routard vous avez un internaute qui avait fourni le lien avec le site officiel, c'était dans une discusion . Je vais essayé de le retrouver mais ce n'est pas facile
Sur le forum du Routard vous avez un internaute qui avait fourni le lien avec le site officiel, c'était dans une discusion . Je vais essayé de le retrouver mais ce n'est pas facile
On ne parle pas de La même chose alors. L'autorisation qui a été donnée est pour que les Cubains puissent entrer et sortir de Cuba sur des bateaux de croisières ou ferry s'il y en avait. Mais ils n'ont toujours pas le droit de prendre de bateaux à moteur, par exemple dans le cadre d'excursions.
Je suis d'accord, ils ne peuvent pas prendre un bateau moteur ou voile seuls sans autorisation
Par contre si c'est dans le cadre d'activités touristiques avec des etrangers, ils peuvent avoir l' autorisation.
J'ai un ami qui possède un petit bateau à moteur , il fait voir la côte à Yumuri
Votre ami a un permis de guide touristique et un permis d'utilisation d'un bateau.
Mais les Cubains ne peuvent toujours pas monter sur les bateaux, seuls ou en groupe, comme pour des excursions. Sauf, évidemment, ceux qui y travaillent.
Facile d'utiliser ces transports en camion-autobus. Ils sont presque toujours postés au terminaux d'autobus Viazul ou très près. En sortant du terminus vous pouvez les apercevoir. Pour les touristes, on préfère être payés en CUC. Les trajets prennent plus de temps à cause des arrêts fréquents en cours de route. Je l'avais fait de Bayamo à Camaguey en mettant mon vélo à l'intérieur pour 10CUC en plus de 4 heures. J'étais fatigué de voir des champs de cannes à sucre comme paysage.
Le hic avec ce transport est qu'il n'a pas d'horaire fixe. Il part quand il est presque plein. Si vous n'êtes pas pressé par le temps ça vous conviendrait probablement. Je vous inclue une photo prise de l'intérieur de celui que j'avais pris à Bayamo.
Hola flobour . Oui ; vous pouvez utiliser tous les transports Cuabains à prix Cubains . Sauf l'avion et les bus "astro" . L'étranger paie l'avion en CUC , alors que le Cubains paie en CUP ( environ 24 fois moins cher . Les bus nAstro sont réservés aux Cubains ou aux étrangers possédant une pièce d'identité Cubaine . La photo du camion ci dessus que vous a posté georgie est un camion qui fait de longues distances . Tout le monde paie en CUC . Ca coûte 12 CUC pour un Havane _Santiago . Ils sont souvent près des gares de bus et trains , mais à la Havane , ils sont très éloignés . Ils se trouvent là où on se rend pour prendre les bus Astro , mais pour " la lista de espera " . C'est vers el reparto electrico . Pour ces bus ; prévoir à manger car ils font des arrêts dans des endroits où on mange mal et cher , et où il n'y a pas de choix . Sinon ; ils sont aussi rapides que les bus . Voilà ! Esperant que cette réponse vous rassurera quand aux transports ..... Effectivement ; les bus partent quand ils sont pleins ; ce qui est en général assez rapide . Ce ne sera au détriment d'aucun Cubains , car comme ils partent pleins , que ce soit de Cubains ou de touristes , ils ne s'arrêtent jamais pour prendre un stoppeur ou autre . Bon voyage
Je vais à Cuba pour une vacance d’une semaine, à partir du 8 décembre. Nous avons réservé un tout inclus. Ce n’est pas un voyage, c’est une vacance. Nous…
Je reviens ici plus pour moi (mon voyage était en aout dernier et quel voyage!!!!) mais pour mes parents qui ont décidé de tenter l'aventure cubaine! Cependant…
Je pars au mois de Mai j'aurais voulu savoir quel transport utiliser pour pouvoir visiter et savoir quelles sont les choses à faire la bas merci par avance de…
Nous partons à cuba le 12 mars et nous pensons voyager en bus comme nous l'avons toujours fait en Asie.cela semble plus compliqué à cuba.faut il réserver les…
Hi,
I’m heading to Miches for the first time in November 2026 (no all-inclusive)
I’d love some tips to plan my stay—accommodation, things to do, places of interest nearby.
Is it possible to rent a scooter there to get around the area?
Thanks for your help!
Best,
hi there, I’ve never been to Martinique. my girlfriend, who’s of Martinican origin, has never had the chance to go either (life isn’t always easy). now we can plan a little trip, but we don’t know which airline to choose or how to find accommodation.
basically, I need quite a few tips.
we’re planning to go in September—no chance before that.
Hi! We spent 10 wonderful days in Guadeloupe’s gorgeous climate. Our arrival got off to a shaky start, though—our suitcase was left behind at the airport, which caused quite a stir. A police officer was shouting at us to get out and cross the street. Then, a taxi driver refused to take us after we showed him where we were staying, right by the port in Pointe-à-Pitre. "No one goes there," he told us! Good thing we arrived during Carnival! A second driver finally agreed to take us, and I can say he knew every nook and cranny of his city.
The rest of the trip was amazing. The locals were smiling and welcoming. We didn’t rent a car, so we didn’t get around much and stayed in the Deshaies area—a real favorite. Plage de la Perle (Pearl Beach) truly lives up to its name! We liked Grande Anse Beach less because of the steep slope, which made walking tricky, and the waves were pretty intense. The landscapes in this part of the island are idyllic. We visited the botanical garden—it’s worth it—and went to the port in Deshaies. If we ever go back, we’ll rent a vehicle so we can explore more, because taxis aren’t cheap!
Hi, I’m leaving soon for Punta Cana—what kind of money should we bring: Canadian dollars, US dollars, or are we forced to exchange once we arrive?
Thanks
We spent 15 days in the Exumas from March 10th to 26th.
I should mention that we’ve been traveling to islands for 20 years, so we have points of comparison when it comes to prices, hospitality, and landscapes.
First, the flights: we now live in the Luberon, so we flew out of Marseille. We took British Airways, which we’ve used several times before for trips to the English-speaking Caribbean and which offers flights via Heathrow. We had an overnight layover in London on the way out, then a flight to Nassau. After that, we took a connecting flight (we had a 2h20 layover in Nassau, which was more than enough) to George Town with Sky Bahamas. We had initially ruled out Bahamasair based on very negative reviews.
Immigration and customs were very quick.
When we arrived, we took a taxi to our hotel, Augusta Bay. Cost: $30.
We rented a car through Sure and Shore. It was delivered to our hotel the day after we arrived, and we kept it until we left for Stocking Island. For 9 days, we paid $470 (which is a great price) for a small Honda that wasn’t very new, but we didn’t have any issues with it. One thing we’d never experienced before: they’d put newspaper sheets on the floor, and we were told not to get any sand in the car if we went to the beach!
We stayed 5 nights at Augusta Bay. A 5-minute walk away is the beautiful, uncrowded Jolly Beach, perfect for swimming. We visited the southern part of the island to see the beaches of Little Exuma, especially Tropic of Cancer Beach and the one next to Santana’s restaurant. We also went to Hopper Bay Beach, where you can see a group of about ten turtles near a small boat dock. We went kayaking from the hotel.
Then we stayed at Paradise Bay in the north. While we hadn’t encountered the sandfly problem before, here it’s important to know that the beach is infested with them. The hotel’s restaurant, which is very good otherwise, even provides repellent for guests— that’s how bad it is!
From there, we visited Coco Plum Beach, Three Sisters Beach (where you can snorkel), and others. We also went kayaking again.
We ended our trip with 3 nights on Stocking Island at Saint Francis Resort. If we were to do it again, we’d spend 4 nights there. The island has many trails, snorkeling spots, and you can get around by kayak. We saw rays, turtles, and even a harmless shark, as well as some beautiful beaches. Plus, the welcome at Saint Francis was the warmest we experienced.
Be aware that everything is very expensive on the island—much more so than in the English-speaking Caribbean. Clearly, the purchasing power of Americans plays a role. They say everything is imported, but that’s the case on all islands!
Some places only accept cash or charge a 5% fee if you pay by card.
We didn’t find the locals particularly friendly. If you’ve been to Dominica or Grenada, for example, you’ll know what I mean.
We explored the whole island. The beaches are stunning, but the roads tell a different story. There are a lot of car wrecks—some houses have two or three in front of them, which really spoils the landscape. There are also many abandoned, ruined houses.
The vegetation is lush but not tropical, and you’ll be served apples and oranges for breakfast because there are very few exotic fruits.
As for the climate in March, there was no humid atmosphere, and the heat was very manageable (26°C). It was very pleasant. The seawater, however, is definitely cooler than in the Indian Ocean, for example.
There’s not much snorkeling, but we knew that before coming.
In conclusion: beautiful beaches, sand as fine as flour, and a very pleasant climate. But honestly, for the same cost, I’d prefer the Seychelles, for example.
Hi everyone,
I need your help!
We’re planning to visit Guadeloupe and take the opportunity to explore the islands La Désirade, Marie-Galante, and Les Saintes.
I initially planned to rent a car to get around the main island and then take the ferry from Trois-Rivières to Les Saintes, from Pointe-à-Pitre to Marie-Galante, and finally from Saint-François to La Désirade, following that route.
But when I look at it, the car would sit unused for at least 5 days—that’s paying for nothing🙁.
Is it possible to go from LES SAINTES to MARIE-GALANTE and then on to LA DÉSIRADE? We’d only rent a car once we arrive in Saint-François to continue exploring Guadeloupe. What do you think—is that doable?
This trip is planned for April.
Thanks so much for your help
Just a quick update on the state of this road: the unpaved section has been significantly improved. You can now complete the journey in about 4 to 4.5 hours instead of 6. Great news! For me, the most hazardous part is actually the paved section before and after Sagua. It encourages higher speeds, but there are deep, dangerous potholes that appear without warning. Be careful!
I’d also note that despite occasional power outages—which casas and paladares know how to handle—tourism remains perfectly doable. Cuba is still magical! I was just told, with a touch of humor, that the official German government website suggests bringing your own toilet paper and candles… Hmm, maybe an update on rechargeable gear would be in order…
Hi! We’re visiting Guadeloupe for the first time in January. We’re looking for accommodation near Deshaies to start our trip. A quiet spot, not too far from the sea so we can walk there. Any suggestions are welcome!
I’ve just returned from 15 days in Cuba and wanted to share my experience along with some practical tips for those planning a trip there.
1. Formalities:
- Passport valid for at least 6 months after your return.
- E-visa: apply online (payment by bank transfer only via the embassy of your choice): evisacuba.cu or through an agency novelacuba.com (card payment on their site—I had to go with this option and recommend it because the Cuban embassy in Brussels apparently never received my transfer...)
- Digital D’Viajeros form to fill out a few days before departure
- Mandatory health insurance
2. Currency/budget
- Plan your entire budget in cash; card payments are rare, and withdrawals at the official rate aren’t great.
Local currency: CUP (Cuban Peso)
Official rate: ~1 € = 120 CUP → state-run restaurants and shops.
Current unofficial rate: ~1 € = 490 CUP → private restaurants, local bars, Cuban-owned shops.
For exchanging money:
The easiest way: ask at your *casa particular* or a local restaurant.
3. My itinerary (15 days)
Havana: 3 nights
Viñales: 3 nights
Cienfuegos: 1 night
Trinidad: 3 nights
Varadero: 3 nights
Havana: 1 night
Flights: Air Europa from Brussels, with a layover in Madrid. Smooth and pleasant service.
Accommodations: *casas particulares* booked on Airbnb except for Varadero (Iberostar Playa Alameda hotel).
Practical tips
Install a VPN before departure (many blocked sites like Instagram and Airbnb).
Download the El Toque app to check the updated CUP exchange rate.
Internet via ETECSA SIM card (~30 € for 10 GB) or Wi-Fi in hotels/*casas*.
Download Maps.me for offline maps.
Intercity travel: shared taxi, Viazul bus, or private transfer through your *casa*.
Electricity: 110 V, sometimes 220 V.
Bring basic supplies and medications—hard to find there.
Cuba requires flexibility and openness: regular power outages, unstable internet (especially in Trinidad).
Finally, my personal take:
I loved my trip to Cuba! It’s a disorienting yet deeply charming country.
Poverty is visible, especially in Havana: crumbling buildings, many people asking for help (but no safety concerns!). Bringing some essentials for locals is a good idea (soap, toothpaste, medications, clothes...).
Cubans are incredibly welcoming and friendly. A few basics in Spanish help a lot! The vibe is unique: music in every street, musicians everywhere, salsa all around.
The variety of landscapes is amazing: colonial architecture, paradise beaches, mountains, waterfalls, lush valleys—you’ll never get bored.
Only downside: Varadero, less authentic than the rest of the country, but I expected that!
Overall, it was a wonderful trip, and I’d love to go back!
Hi,
Several comments recommend bringing mosquito repellent. Got it. Are there a lot of them during the day? And by the seaside? Or are they more present (and voracious) in the evening? Thanks.
I bought tickets for Martinique in April 2025 for 15 days, without really looking into what there was to do, and with the idea in my head that we could: hike, do water activities, swim, visit rum distilleries...
But... I’m worried I’ll get bored over 15 days and I’m considering maybe spending 1 week in Guadeloupe and 1 week in Martinique.
For example, I don’t know how to spend a whole afternoon at the beach. 2 hours, max.
I know it’s a personal question and depends on how you travel, but I’d love to hear your thoughts if you’ve done it:
- Did you feel too rushed?
- Is it reasonable to do?
- How much time would you spend on each island?
I’ve just returned from Havana after an 18-day stay from October 8th to 26th.
From Montreal, you have to go through Varadero Airport. I now break up the airport-to-Havana transfer with a SUPER pleasant stopover halfway, in the historic village of Hershey (Camilo Cienfuegos). Quebecer Anne-Marie has renovated a century-old house there, and every stay of mine feels like a peaceful oasis. Amazing food, a pool, impeccable hospitality—I highly recommend it! Casa Cub'Anita.
Life for Cubans remains just as tough, made even harder right now by tropical viruses spread by mosquitoes. It’s absolutely essential to protect yourself properly. That said, the purchasing power of foreign currency hasn’t changed much, despite skyrocketing inflation. As of today, the US dollar exchanges for nearly 500 pesos on the "informal market."
This was my first time staying in Vieja, in the non-touristy part. I discovered some great little restaurants run by the younger generation. Affordable, excellent food, and remarkably friendly service: El Chanchulero (it was about time I checked it out—unbeatable value for money!), El Café, Jibaro...
Cubans are still as warm and welcoming as ever—bicitaxis, servers, markets. Speaking the language is a huge plus.
Essentials to download from abroad before you leave: the maps.me offline maps app, and the La Nave taxi/motorcycle taxi app, which is super efficient for getting around the capital.
Sending my best to all my friends in Oriente as the hurricane passes, especially to Baracoa. I’m planning to visit this winter.
I’m planning a trip to Cuba this summer and I’d love some info: Is travel insurance really necessary? Can you easily get online by buying a local SIM card or internet card? Apparently, there’s only one currency now—is it better to exchange money with your *casa particular* host?
Thanks for all these valuable tips!
Hi!
I’m heading to Havana for a week in February. I’m looking for a casa particular that’s affordable, clean, and cozy. Since I’ll be traveling alone, I’d love a place where people are welcoming!
Also, I really want to stay in Habana Vieja...
Do you have any recommendations for places you’ve stayed before?
I tried booking the casa particular *Chez Nous*, but I never got a response.
Hi fellow travelers,
We're heading to Martinique for a month from mid-January to mid-February.
Our plan is to explore the island by staying in three different spots for 10 days each, on both sides of the island...
Could you share some great tips on where to stay for an authentic experience and what we absolutely must see?!
Hi there,
In March 2026 I’ll be at the Club Med in Sainte-Anne and I’m thinking of heading to Les Saintes at the end of my stay.
Do you know what the most convenient way to get there is?
Thanks so much!
Hi everyone.
For those traveling to Cuba and then planning to go to the USA, you won’t be able to get your ESTA for the United States (same applies) if you’ve been to Cuba after 2021 due to a law passed by Donald Trump (a law that Biden later repealed).
You’ll have no choice but to apply for a visa, which costs 200 € (and approval isn’t guaranteed even after payment).
If you’re in this situation, the process to get this visa will be a real hassle—you’ll need to book an appointment at the U.S. Embassy in Paris. It’s the only embassy in France authorized to handle your application after you’ve filled out the visa request on the official website.
If you try to cheat by applying for an ESTA for the USA, just know that the American administration has ways of finding out if you’ve been to Cuba. 😉
I'm looking for information on the islands of Puerto Rico, St. Barthélemy, and St. Martin for March 2026.
What is there to see, and if possible, prices or tips, please?
Thanks, Michel V.
I’ve booked a room at an all-inclusive in Varadero for January 2025. This will be my 3rd trip to Cuba, the last one was 20 years ago.
The whole tipping and gratuities thing is wearing me out. Even though it’s an all-inclusive package, I think it’d be rude not to leave any tips for the bar staff and the housekeeping team, especially.
Here’s what I’m aiming for:
1. Not feeling stingy (or “feeling cheap” for my fellow Quebecers);
2. Not disrespecting Cubans by offering junk or, on the flip side, going overboard and creating unrealistic expectations for future tourists;
3. And most importantly, not spending the whole week wondering if I’m doing the right thing. I’m going there to relax, not to stress!
Hi there,
I’m planning our upcoming trip to Guadeloupe. We’re looking for a place to stay where human contact is a priority, with air conditioning, close to the beaches, and clean.
We’ve had several responses. After doing some research online, I was able to rule out quite a few options.
But now I’m deciding between:
Kokoplaj, tipayoune (issue: no AC, just fans—is that a problem?), Résidence Le Zandoli, and Gwada Rêves.
If you have any info or experiences to share, I’d love to hear them! ;-)
Thanks for your help!
See you soon...
I’m heading to Blau Costa Verde next February and I’d like to rent a scooter to explore the area. Are the roads around Holguín in good condition? I’m thinking of renting one for 1–2 or 3 days to visit Holguín, Gibara, and Banes on my own. Do you recommend it (I’ve got a great sense of direction)? How much does it usually cost to rent a scooter for 2 or 3 days (or a car, though I’d prefer a scooter)? Also, are there any other interesting spots nearby you’d suggest checking out?
Are there any excursions to Santiago, and how much do they typically cost?
Hi,
When booking the tickets to Martinique for our family, I must have made a mistake, and on one of the tickets, the third first name is wrong. Michel instead of Joel...
CORSAIR Airlines is telling me I have to buy a new ticket for 1200 € (Christmas period). I think that’s outrageous and, above all, impossible for us.
I’m desperate—I feel like Corsair is really overdoing it.
Is there any recourse? How can I get out of this?
I’m throwing this message in a bottle, just in case...😕
Hi, I'm looking for a car rental for January 2020 in Guadeloupe. There are several agencies I've seen reviews for—has anyone dealt with Autolagon before?
Thanks!
I’m heading to Bayahibe this winter. It’ll be my second time in this country, where I feel so at home.
I’d love to bring back some Larimar jewelry... the real deal.
I saw some at a shop in the Iberostar Dominicus hotel, but I’m guessing I can find it cheaper elsewhere. Maybe in La Romana?
If anyone has any tips on this, I’d really appreciate it.
Some wholesalers are canceling trips to Cuba, but I still want to visit my favorite country. For those who went there in November, what’s the situation like at all-inclusive hotels?
