Transport, accommodation, and great spots for a month in Cambodia

Hi there,

To optimize your itinerary, visit Kampong Luong between PP and Battambang. Then, from Siem Reap, you can take an overnight bus that’ll take you to Kampot, where you’ll arrive early in the morning. This way, you avoid spending a full day in transit and save on a night’s accommodation at the same time. From Kampot/Kep to Koh Rong, you have two options (since the Kampot–Sihanoukville road still has sections in very poor condition): - By boat with Buva Sea, which connects Kampot to the Koh Rong islands and continues to Koh Sdach. It operates only during the dry season and has just announced its reopening date (around November, I think). - By train from Kampot to Sihanoukville, then boat. The train leaves Phnom Penh every morning, stops at Takeo, Kep, Kampot, and continues to Sihanoukville, arriving around 12:00–12:30 PM (delays are frequent). Then, at 2:00 PM, it heads back to Phnom Penh. The scenery is lovely.

Phnom Penh – Kampong Luong (Pursat or Krakor): taxi or bus Kampong Luong – Battambang: taxi or bus Note that by taxi, you can do the PP–Battambang route in a day while stopping to visit Kampong Luong for two hours. Battambang – Siem Reap: bus (normally, no boat crossings during this low-water period). Siem Reap – Kampot: overnight bus Kampot – Koh Rong: train + boat or direct boat Koh Rong – Phnom Penh: boat to Sihanoukville, then bus or taxi

In the cities: In Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, I recommend taking tuk-tuks (with a Cambodian phone number, you can use the PassApp app to book a tuk-tuk anywhere in the city for an affordable, non-negotiable price—unlike independent tuk-tuks. Another app: Grab). If you’re comfortable on a motorbike: here, they’re mostly 110cc semi-automatics, which are very easy to handle, or, if you prefer, automatic scooters with wide, low wheels (less practical). You can rent them by the day in Battambang and Kampot and explore the areas around the cities. That’s how you discover rural Cambodia, which is very different from the touristy cities. You’ll pass through rice fields, orchards, cassava, corn, and sugarcane fields, and especially small peaceful villages. You’ll see water buffaloes, kids waving, carts, vintage motorbikes, street vendors, etc. From Kampot to Kep, you can also make the trip by motorbike or even tuk-tuk—it’s very short.

In a month, you’ll have plenty of time. Usually, I recommend 9–10 days in the northwest, 9–10 days in the northeast, and 9–10 days in the south, plus 2–3 days in Phnom Penh. This time, you could do roughly 14 days in the northwest, 14 days in the south, and 2–3 days in PP—you’ll be all set! !

Thanks Erwan for your tips! For PP, do you have any accommodation addresses in a nice, lively neighborhood that’s not too touristy? Thanks

Hi there, I’d say that in Phnom Penh, all the neighborhoods are nice. Draw two lines starting south of the Central Market and west of the Royal Palace—the area where they intersect might fit your criteria and offers accommodations. The area behind Sisowath Quay, north of the Royal Palace, is also a good option.

No, sorry, I don’t have any specific addresses. Usually, when I go to PP, I do a day trip round-trip. Other travelers can give you recommendations—there’s plenty of choice for accommodation!

Thanks! In your first message, you mentioned that over a month we could spend a few days in the northwest. What do you recommend after Phnom Penh (PP) and before Battambang? Are there buses or taxis to get to Battambang? Thanks again for your first itinerary and your invaluable tips! Fabie

OK, thanks! If you’ve got any good addresses, we’re all ears! Fabie/Jerome

Since you mentioned in your first post that you’d planned Kampong Luong in your itinerary, that’s where you’re stopping between PP and Battambang, right? It’s just a stone’s throw from Route N5 (near Krakor), one of the country’s busiest roads. So it’s super easy to take a bus or minibus from PP, ask the driver to drop you off at Krakor, grab a tuk-tuk to Kampong Luong, and visit the floating village—which should be pretty far from the banks at this low-water season (in March). Then head back to Krakor and catch another minibus to Battambang. Local minibuses that carry passengers are absolutely everywhere in Cambodia—it’s a breeze to connect to small provincial towns this way, especially when you’re following major routes like the N5. I’d say budget around 20,000 riels per person for PP to Krakor, which is about $5, and another 20,000 riels for Krakor to Battambang.

Alternatively, you could also stop in Kampong Chhnang, which is closer to Phnom Penh, or Pursat near Krakor.

Two other possible stops in the northwest: - Banteay Chhmar, north of Sisophon (Battambang - Sisophon - Banteay Chhmar - Sisophon - Siem Reap). This Arte documentary is great. https://youtu.be/1HY_RtEmhYo?si=LmQfZV30c7s4c7-i - Kampong Thom, between Siem Reap and PP, where you can visit the Sambor Prey Kuk temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The appeal of these two stops is that you’ll hardly run into any other tourists—you’ll pretty much have the sites to yourselves. Though maybe exploring Angkor over several days will have already given you your fill of temple visits!

Hi there,

I’m planning this trip for January 2026. I’ll be able to share the places we loved and the ones to avoid by then ;) My research (blogs, forums, a friend living in Phnom Penh...) led me to choose Koh Rong Sanloem—it’s quieter and more natural than its neighbor Koh Rong. That said, in either case, you’ll need to hurry because they’re being overrun by Chinese investors.

Two other possible stops in the northwest: - Banteay Chhmar, north of Sisophon (Battambang - Sisophon - Banteay Chhmar - Sisophon - Siem Reap). This Arte documentary is great. - Kampong Thom, between Siem Reap and PP, where you can visit the Sambor Prey Kuk temples, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Thanks, Erwan, for sharing these amazing spots! 🙂 Do you think I could at least stop for lunch there with a taxi? (I’m not planning to stay overnight, and my accommodations are already booked)

Hi Kate,

For Banteay Chhmar, no, because it’s really quite far from Battambang or Siem Reap. Sambor Prey Kuk could work, though—I think you could do it in a day if you leave early from Siem Reap and arrive late in Phnom Penh. You’d need to ask the taxi driver (or guide?) if it’s possible. It’s not too far from Route N6, which goes from Siem Reap to PP—about 20-25 kilometers—so it wouldn’t be a big detour. If you leave SR at 7 AM, you could be there by 10 AM, stay until 2 PM, and head back to PP to arrive in the late afternoon and avoid the worst of the traffic 😉

Ok Kate I’m waiting to hear from you and hope you have a fantastic trip! Fabie

Sambor Prey Kuk can probably be done in a day if you leave early from Siem Reap and arrive late in Phnom Penh. You’d need to ask the taxi driver (or guide?) if that’s possible.

That’s the route I’m taking, but the "leave early, arrive late" plan doesn’t really thrill me 😕 Anyway, thanks! !

I’m looking forward to your updates and wish you a fantastic trip!

Thanks! In the meantime, I’ll take advantage of the great tips you’ll be sharing ;) I’m thinking of writing a travel journal when I get back—you’ll stumble on it if you keep an eye on the discussions about the destination before your departure.

Hi there, I’m getting back to you about our trip to Cambodia. If we’re going for a month, I think we could spend a few days in the east: Sen Monorom (Mondolkiri province) and a stop in Kampong Cham. What do you think? And how could we fit that into our itinerary: Phnom Penh, Battambang, Siem Reap, and then finish in the south—Kampot, Kep, and the Koh Rong islands? Are there buses, and do we *have* to go back through Phnom Penh to do west, east, then south? Thanks! Fabie

Hi Fabie!

I just replied to you on the other forum—I only just made the connection now!

To include Sen Monorom and Kampong Cham, you’d do PP - Sen Monorom (6h) and spend 3 days there, then Sen Monorom - Kampong Cham (5h) for two days, and Kampong Cham - Siem Reap (5h).

After that, you head to Battambang and then make your way to Kampot or Kep via Phnom Penh (bus change; there might be an overnight bus option, but I don’t think there’s a direct overnight bus from Battambang to Kampot like there is from Siem Reap). Alternatively, if you have time, you could take the train—either from Battambang to Phnom Penh (departs 3 PM, arrives 10:30 PM) or from PP to Kampot (departs 7 AM, passes Kep at 10:20 AM and Kampot at 10:40 AM, arrives Sihanoukville at 12:40 PM). You could even do both trains over two days with an overnight in PP!

To summarize: PP - Sen Monorom by minibus (the roads get steep near Sen Monorom) Sen Monorom - Kampong Cham by minibus Kampong Cham - Siem Reap by (mini)bus Siem Reap - Battambang by (mini)bus Battambang - Kampot/Kep: if possible, take a direct overnight sleeper bus; otherwise, a (mini)bus with a likely change in PP, or take the train with an overnight in PP - Kampot - Koh Rong by boat with Buva Sea (they’re resuming routes this month if all goes well). If no boat, take a minibus (or train) to Sihanoukville to catch the boat there. - Koh Rong - PP by boat, then a minibus or private car to quickly reach PP via the highway instead of National Road 4.

Thanks so much! Fabie

Hi there, I’m getting back to you about guest houses in PP. Since I don’t know PP at all… Is the Chamkarmon district nice and lively in the evening without being *too* close to the center? If you’ve got any good recommendations, I’d love to hear them! Thanks, Fabie

Hi there, I’m not particularly familiar with this neighborhood since I’ve always stayed further north (and never booked in advance) in the areas I mentioned above. I’ve probably passed through on a motodop on my way to my many (5!) "pilgrimages" to Tuol Sleng, which is nearby, or to the Russian Market, but that’s about it. Generally, I never recommend specific accommodations because I’ve learned over time how quickly their quality can change—for better or worse—in Southeast Asia.

The neighborhood south of Preah Sihanouk Boulevard and the Independence Monument, Boeung Keng Kang 1 (BKK 1, part of the Chamkar Mon district), is the area for trendy bars and Western restaurants. Lots of expats and a pretty young crowd. That’s where you’ll find Bassac Lane (St. 308), the expat party street. It’s not really traditional Khmer vibes—far from it—but tourists love it, and you’ll definitely find some good places to stay there.

Thanks for the info! Our itinerary is coming together. After Phnom Penh, we're heading to Kratie, then making our way back down to Kompong Cham. We're still looking for the best way to go straight up to Battambang before heading to Siem Reap. The *Routard* guide mentions a daily bus, but we haven’t been able to find it yet. Maybe a taxi could take us there? 🤔 Have a great evening! Fabie

... or why make it simple when you can make it complicated.

Yeah, it’s as complicated as Songsam says!

Kampong Cham to Siem Reap is about a 5-hour trip, but Kampong Cham to Battambang is more like 8–10 hours unless you take a taxi! You’d either have to go back to PP to switch buses and head straight to Battambang, or find a way to reach Highway N5, which goes directly to Battambang from Kampong Cham by crossing the Tonlé Sap River near Prek Kdam/Oudong. I don’t think you’ll find tourist buses doing that route—maybe just local minivans stopping at the Skun road junction, then again after Prek Kdam where you’d join the N5 near Oudong (which, by the way, could’ve been a nice afternoon stop—it’s the former capital and royal necropolis). By taxi, it should cost around $80. Ask the driver to leave really early (5–6 AM) so you arrive in Battambang by early afternoon and can enjoy the rest of the day.

Why do you want to go to Battambang before Siem Reap? So you can take a direct overnight bus to Kampot or Sihanoukville/Koh Rong later? It’s still way simpler and saves time to go from Kampong Cham or Kratie to Siem Reap first, then Siem Reap to Battambang, and finally head to the coast from Battambang (check for overnight buses with a transfer in Phnom Penh—there are several reliable night bus companies: Giant Ibis, Larryta, Virak Buntham/VET).

For Phnom Penh, I spent 3 nights at the Vacation Boutique Hotel two years ago. It was well-maintained in a neighborhood I know well, and I really liked it—clean and well-kept. But I don’t know how it is now; in Asia, hotels can deteriorate quickly. I’ve had a lot of bad surprises with poorly maintained guesthouses.

Skun highway junction

Don’t miss the local culinary specialty offered right at the "bus station"—yum yum! Lunchtime will be here soon, enjoy your meal everyone! 🙂.

I’ve already tasted it (not bad, actually), but letting one crawl up my arm—never! I’d have the wrong reflex to knock it to the ground and crush it under my shoe, no matter how harmless it is 😏

Happy New Year Kate🤗 Have you already been to Cambodia? We can’t wait to hear your great tips!! 😉

Hello and happy New Year! 🙂

We’ve canceled our trip to Cambodia because of the conflict. We’re heading off to other adventures—Thailand and Laos—in 2 days.