A month in Cambodia in November 2024

(continued) The elegant buildings are scattered amidst beautiful, well-maintained gardens, lawns, groves, and trees.



The Moonlight Pavilion, with its stunning roof visible outside the enclosure, is one of the main buildings—very photogenic. The Throne Hall, the centerpiece of the royal palace, is shaped like a cross and crowned with three spires, the tallest of which is 60 meters high and topped with a four-faced Brahma head. Another building that catches my eye is the Napoleon III Iron Pavilion, in the "Eiffel" style. This pavilion was built to host Empress Eugénie during the inauguration of the Suez Canal, and Napoleon gifted it to King Norodom in 1870.

On my way out, I head toward the promenade along the Tonle Sap and reach the Wat Ounalom Pagoda, impossible to miss with its curved red and gold roofs.



I stroll along the Tonle, a popular spot for Cambodians, which makes it very pleasant. In the late afternoon, food stalls of all kinds (insects, different soups, etc.) set up, bringing the promenade to life.



I have dinner at a restaurant near my hotel, Banteay Srei. It’s run by an NGO that supports underprivileged children. The food is excellent, the staff is very welcoming, and I even find a wine from Plaisance in the Gers! I can’t resist and enjoy a seafood soup followed by a pineapple-ginger dessert.

Sunday, Nov 3 I’ve decided to do all my sightseeing on foot. I pass by the museum and head toward the central market, Psar Thmey. Along the way, I stop at a pagoda. A ceremony is taking place right now. The monks are seated in the middle, a young novice faces them, and the family is on the sides. I don’t dare enter, but a man gestures for me to come over. He explains that the young monk is trading his civilian clothes for the *kesa*, the sacred robe of monks.

I continue to the market, where I buy a warm enough jacket for my return to France. The colonial-house district is nearby, and I set off to explore them. Many of these buildings are now occupied by banks.



The post office is open, so I go in to take some photos. The building is well maintained.



I carry on to Wat Phnom Pagoda, one of the oldest, nestled on a hill. To reach it, you have to climb the staircase guarded by *nagas* and lions.



The main sanctuary is decorated with murals and a Buddha statue. Visitors leave offerings—flowers, candles.



The library is nearby, as is the Raffles Hotel Le Royal. All I have left is to find them. I circle the hill a bit before realizing a street behind it leads straight there. The Art Deco-style building of the hotel is stunning.



Guards are at the entrance to the gardens and let me in to explore. I wander from one room to another, and outside there are two pools. The staff see me roaming around but let me visit in peace.



Across the street, the library is closed and looks run-down after seeing the hotel.



I head toward the Tonlé Sap and cross a small local street-food market.



I walk the entire promenade—boats are decorated for the upcoming Water Festival in a few days.



I stop at Wat Ounalom Pagoda before heading back to my guesthouse to rest, then dinner at Bantey Srey.

Hi Marie Jo, I followed you live on FB, but it looks like there’s a lot more text here, so I’m reposting this 😊. Thanks for sharing! Christelle

Hi Christelle! Welcome to Cambodia. You’re the first one joining me. You already know about my trip—here, there’ll be more text and fewer photos, max 300… I’ve got to manage that. I’ll be following you in Rajasthan 😊 even though I’ve been there before. I’ll repost my Rajasthan photos after this trip, before heading off to the next one, which promises to be EXTRAORDINARY and mind-blowing 🤯😍. Cheers, see you soon.

Hello! This is a great opportunity for me to dive back into not-so-distant memories and discover your take on Cambodia—I’m in! Especially when it starts with PP, a capital city I really loved ;)

Thanks Bruno for joining us. I really loved Phnom Penh. See you soon! 😁😄

Monday, November 4 I continue my visits on foot. I pass by the Royal Palace again, walk near Botum Park, and arrive at the Wat Botum Vathey Pagoda (lotus flower pagoda).

A little further on, in the center of a roundabout, stands the Independence Monument shaped like a lotus.



Next to it is the statue of King Norodom Sihanouk, from which there’s a great view of all the monuments.

I still have a bit of walking to do before reaching the genocide museum, Tuol Sleng. It’s an old school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a detention center nicknamed S21. The rooms connect to each other through narrow passages cut into the walls, allowing you to see all the rooms in a row. The brick cells are tiny—just enough space to lie down. The smallest measured 1.5 m² and could hold 3 or 4 people. They all had wooden doors with a small window. The names of the people who stayed here—and were all tortured—are written on each cell entrance. Building B was used as a torture room. Photos of these tortured individuals are on display. These men and women are often very young. In a cabinet, you can see the civilian clothes of the detainees, which they abandoned for the Khmer Rouge’s black uniform. It sends a chill down your spine, and I can’t bring myself to photograph all these horrors. They were tied and tortured on iron bed frames to extract confessions that were often forced by the torturers, not based on reality. Building D, upstairs, was a common detention room. The Khmer Rouge locked up about fifty prisoners per room. They lay on the floor in tight, aligned rows with their family members. They were numbered and shackled with long iron bars with cast-iron rings. The photos of the torture are unspeakably atrocious; in other rooms, the torture instruments are on display. Outside, barbed wire is placed on the windows and balconies. In the courtyard, the children’s swing was repurposed for hangings. They would hang people, take them down before they died to torture them a little more, and then hang them again until they died. Out of the 17,000 people imprisoned here, there were only seven survivors. I sat on a bench outside for a while, stunned by all these atrocities. I take one or two photos of the exterior so I don’t forget.



Today, as I write about everything I’ve just recounted, the emotions come flooding back. All day after that visit, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. It’s hard to see, but so important to show so we don’t forget. At the time, I was reading *First They Killed My Father*, a fascinating book. I start walking again in search of Orussey Market, hoping it’ll help me process the previous visit. This lively market is like Ali Baba’s cave. Each section has its specialty: tools, hairdressing, fabrics, trinkets, food, street food. I run into some French people who are at the end of their stay in Cambodia and are doing some last-minute shopping.





On my way out, I take a tuk-tuk this time, which drops me off near the Independence Monument, and I walk back to the promenade along the Tonle. I really enjoy strolling here, and before heading back, I stop for a sweet treat at the ice cream shop. Tonight is my last dinner at my favorite restaurant, and I enjoy an amok, a traditional Cambodian dish—a fish curry cooked in a banana leaf—and for dessert, a famous chocolate cake with a glass of wine. At the end of the service, the waiter opens a bottle of wine with the owner and pours me a glass. We toast, and the evening ends on a cheerful note. I really loved Phnom Penh—I found it pleasant and easy to visit.

I’d obviously spotted this genocide museum in my guidebook. But just like the “Agent Orange” room at the War Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, we just didn’t have the heart for it. Your reaction only confirms we made the right call not to put ourselves through that, even though I fully support its existence as a “duty to remember.”

Tuesday, November 5th. This morning I leave Julika’s GH at 8:30 AM. A tuk-tuk picks me up and takes me to the bus for Kep. A family of five is already there. The minibus is half an hour late, and on the way, it stops to pick up three more people. Once we arrive in Kampot, all the passengers get off, and an hour later, we reach Kep. The driver drops me off at a square facing the sea, and the beach hotel is right across. Lili, a French woman, has been running this hotel for several years. I found her contact on FB and had booked a non-A/C room for $15 before leaving. After settling in, I head to the crab market, 1.5 km away. This market has many stalls with fish of all sizes, shrimp, squid, and crabs.



You can eat there on the spot, so I take the chance to try the crabs, but they’re tiny and fried. I’m not convinced these are the crabs that Kep is famous for.



On my way back, I walk past restaurants with more tempting menus and plan to come back the next day. Along the road, women are sitting on folding chairs. At first, I thought they were selling fish or vegetables, but not at all. Today, I leave without understanding their presence, but one thing’s for sure—they’re everywhere. I stroll down to the pier to go to Rabbit Island, Koh Tonsay, and there too, women are waiting along the road. For what? I’ll find out later. Before heading back to the hotel, I stop by the tuk-tuks and book one for the next day to visit a pepper plantation and Kampot. Before dinner, I go for a swim—it’s great! The beach is right in front, so I just grab a towel from the hotel and head out in my swimsuit. The water feels really warm; I’m definitely not complaining.



I have dinner at the hotel and feel a bit disappointed—either I made a bad choice, or the food isn’t as tasty as in Phnom Penh.

Oh yeah, I get it—I’d visited the one in Ho Chi Minh City, which is also really moving.

Wednesday, November 6 At 5 AM, I’m woken up by a violent storm that lasts a good hour—what a downpour! At 9 AM, the tuk-tuk arrives, and off we go. It takes me to Sothy’s plantation, 20 km from Kep. I’m the first visitor, and they invite me to sit under a shelter with some tea while waiting for the tour. No other tourists show up during that time, so the manager gives me a private tour of the plantation. Pepper is only harvested starting from the third year after planting and continues for 30 years. They produce a natural fertilizer from plants that grow on-site and bat guano. The harvest is done by hand between February and April. Afterward, the peppercorns need to be hulled and dried. They also preserve some in brine. It keeps for up to 5 years. Red and white pepper are husk-free. The tour is really interesting. At the end, we return to the shelter, and I get to taste all the different types of pepper and make a few purchases. He lets me try pepper coffee and a dessert.



On the way back, we pass by guava and mango orchards—the fruits are wrapped in bags to protect them from insects and diseases.

We drive past the salt marshes, but everything is dry at the moment, then we arrive in Kampot.

The center of Kampot has beautiful old colonial houses, all converted into hotels, restaurants, and shops. I’m not really impressed by the town, so we head back to Kep. Just before reaching the crab market, a torrential downpour hits us.



The women I saw the day before are still there—they’re protecting themselves with umbrellas and rushing toward cars. I’m naive and just as I’m about to ask the driver to stop so we can pick one or two up, he looks at me, laughing and gesturing, and I realize they’re sex workers. Back at the hotel, the rain has stopped. I drop off my purchases and head out for lunch at a restaurant near the market. I enjoy a Kampot pepper crab and absolutely love it. They give me a pineapple for dessert.



A peaceful stroll along the seaside to watch the sunset. Life is calm and relaxing here.

Well, I never! I don’t remember seeing any ladies by the roadside in 2018, and let me tell you, my Lulu spots them fast 😄. I found this city really peaceful and family-friendly back then!! The vibe must’ve changed since then

Kep is still peaceful, and there weren’t many tourists in early November. I really enjoyed my stay. It was pretty strange to see all those women sitting by the side of the road.

Thursday, Nov 7 Today’s a beautiful day, and I’m off to explore Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island). The round-trip costs $25, and you have to specify your return time when buying the ticket. It’s a small island, and I thought I’d walk around it. When I land, I take the paved path to the left, and pretty quickly, the guesthouses (GH) start lining up side by side.





I follow them to the end of the path, where I come across the local police station. The path doesn’t go any further. I head back to the pier and take the muddy trail to the right. Construction equipment has torn up the path, and at the end, a hotel is being built. They’re constructing a seawall to create a private beach. The work is on hold, and all the machinery is parked off to the side. I take another muddy trail that leads to some corrugated metal houses.





- I turn back and go for a swim in a quiet spot, then relax in a hammock. The water’s lovely, and I head back to Kep around 3 PM—lounging on the beach all day isn’t really my thing.

On the way back, I stop for lunch at the same restaurant as yesterday and enjoy some squid with Kampot green pepper. I meet two women from Toulouse who just arrived and are also staying at the beach hotel. I rent a bike from the hotel for the next day—it’s actually an employee’s bike, and it’s seen better days, but it’s better than nothing.

Friday, November 8th. This morning, I have a hearty breakfast—2 fried eggs, half a baguette, butter, jam, fruit juice, and tea. The bread is excellent, and I learn that the bar near the pier is run by a Frenchman and there’s a bakery on the side. I’m all set to start my active day. After a few kilometers, the heat starts to kick in. I stop to buy water at a small roadside stall and take the opportunity to check my route. Maps tells me to take a path, and I end up in the middle of flooded fields, probably rice paddies. I ask two kids on a motorbike for directions, and they point me toward a muddy trail through the fields. Seeing me hesitate, they accompany me, and one of them even carries my bike through the roughest sections.



- At the end of this path, it’s not the sea but a paved road. I’m saved, but my bike weighs a ton with all the mud caked between the wheels and fenders. I ride along this road and spot a water tanker truck cleaning it. Yay, I speed up to catch it. I show my bike to the man with the hose, and he washes it for me—I’m saved and can continue to Angkol Beach, a small fishing village.



I cross the village and keep going until I reach the pagoda.



Back at the beach, which isn’t very clean, unfortunately. Outside a house, a woman is repairing fishing nets, and I approach her. She agrees to let me photograph her and her little girls.







I stay by the water for a while, watching kids play in the sea.

I head back, waving hello as I pass a house, and 100 meters later, my bike chain breaks. Well, that’s just great—I have no idea how to fix it. I look at the house in the distance and decide to ask for help. The man there finds a solution and kindly repairs my chain for me. I return to Kep and stop at the bar run by the Frenchman, Délis. I quench my thirst with a refreshing passion fruit juice and a raisin bread that’s delicious. The girls from Toulouse arrive at the same time, and we head back to the hotel together before going for a swim. It’s so nice to cool off at the end of the day. We decide to have dinner together at Délis. I order an amok, which is excellent, with a draft beer.





On the way back to the hotel, Lili is with other French travelers—Ludo, the owner of Délis, and a couple who’ve been coming here for 25 years. We chat for a long time, and before going to bed, I have to repack my bag because I’m leaving at 6:15 AM tomorrow. My stay in Kep was really enjoyable. I got some good rest before continuing my trip, and I’ll have great memories of it.

Saturday, Nov 9 The minibus to Phnom Penh is on time, and from there I change to head to Kampong Thom. I arrive in K.T. at 3:30 PM. The Vimean Sovann GH is full, so the tuk-tuk takes me to the next street to Ban Houn guesthouse ($15 and very nice). I book it for the temple visit tomorrow morning ($30 for the two temples). Once settled, I head out to find a restaurant. At the end of the street, I spot a stand with a pig roasting on a spit. My stomach growls—*that looks good*—I can’t resist. I sit on a stool, and they prepare a box with a few pieces of pork. It’s a bit dry but edible.





A little farther on, I grab a drink. With my stomach full, I can continue to the river. The walk is really pleasant with nice lighting, and I do like the locals—strolling along the river. There’s an area for kids riding electric cars or bikes, a bit farther on are workout machines, others are playing badminton—it’s lively and fun.





On the way back, I buy some pastries for breakfast. I pass a laundromat that stays open until 9 PM, so I have time to grab my laundry from the GH and come back before it closes. I don’t go to bed too late, hoping to get some rest. But soon, my stomach starts hurting, and I’m sick pretty much all night—back and forth between the toilet and bed with diarrhea and vomiting. That spit-roasted pork was a mistake; it must’ve been roasting for days. I won’t fall for that again—well, I hope...

Sunday, Nov 10 I’m exhausted and can’t even manage breakfast; I can barely drink my tea. Chin, the tuk-tuk driver, arrives at 9 AM. I go ahead with the planned visits despite feeling awful. We head to Sambor Prei Kuk. (Entry: $10)

The complex is divided into three groups: Prasat Sambor to the north, Prasat Tao in the center, and Prasat Yeay Poan to the south. The temples are in the forest.



At the first group, they’re filming a movie—best not to disturb them.





I’m so wiped out that I don’t fully enjoy the visit. On the way back, Chin, the driver, wants me to try a specialty called *krama* (sticky rice with black beans and coconut milk cooked in bamboo over coals). It’s hard to eat, but I take a bite to make him happy.



We stop back in K.T. to head to Phnom Santuk Mountain. It’s a pilgrimage site, and you have to climb 800 steps—about 2.5 km. The path is lined with Buddha statues. I take breaks often and eventually make it to the top, but it’s tough. At the summit, there are sanctuaries, a temple, deities, and a great view of the surrounding countryside.

Along the way, we pass wooden houses on stilts.



On the way back, I lie down for a while before heading out for dinner (pasta with veggies).

Monday, November 11th This morning, I’ve got the bus at 10:30 AM to head to Kampong Cham. We make a lunch stop at a roadside restaurant. Everyone sits down, and there’s plenty of choice. They go pick their food at the food stall—the pots are full. I stay outside waiting for them.



We arrive in Kompong Cham around 1:30 PM. A tuk-tuk takes me to Phalla Riverside Guesthouse, run by Thomas, a Cambodian who lived in France for 40 years. It’s a bit out of the city center—over 3 km away on a quiet road. I rent a bike for the afternoon and take a ride along the Mekong.



Then I set off in search of the French lighthouse. I have to cross a very wide bridge with heavy traffic and pollution—it’s not very pleasant. It looks more like a minaret, abandoned and run-down. I won’t be climbing it—the stairs are too steep and dizzying, it’s pretty dangerous.





I head back into town and stop by the bustling market—everything’s mixed together: food, clothes, hair salons, bike shops, motorbike stores…









I have dinner at a restaurant by the Mekong run by blind people. On my way back, I meet some French travelers, and one of them lives here and is building a stilt house by the Mekong, right across from the guesthouse.

Hi Marie Jo, I just caught up on my backlog... this travel journal is moving at a breakneck pace [;)] So many memories are coming back—Bangkok and the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh, which I also loved, but we didn’t stay long enough.

I sat on a bench outside for a while, stunned by all those atrocities. I took one or two photos of the exterior so I wouldn’t forget.

I think it was on that same bench that I waited for my husband. When he came out, he was crying and said: "You were right not to go in. You were so brave—we mustn’t forget."

Welcome Isabelle. I don’t regret taking this visit, but I wasn’t feeling great for the rest of the day.

Tuesday, Nov 12 This morning, Thomas called Sophal, a tuk-tuk driver, who’ll take me to explore the area around KC. Joelle, the French woman I met last night, is joining me. While waiting for him to arrive, I’ll visit the house under construction.

We leave around 09:30, pass by the lighthouse, and he takes us to a village called Cheung Kok to visit an NGO. A volunteer shows us around—the traditional bamboo houses and the school. The kids aren’t there today.



We follow the Mekong. During the monsoon, floods cover all the land, and as soon as it dries up, they grow corn, rice, vegetables (cucumbers, zucchinis... Chinese grapefruits, jackfruit, and sorghum also grow in this area). We cross cashew and rubber plantations.



The latex is harvested by tapping, the same way pine trees are tapped for resin in the Landes region of France.



As we pass through the villages, we see many young Muslim children. The girls are already veiled, and by puberty, they wear the abaya—it’s striking. He tells us that the Khmer Rouge still govern the country. People always have to be very careful when they speak, even to their neighbors, because the Khmer Rouge are still present. There are still disappearances when someone verbally opposes the regime. He also told us that Cambodia is under Vietnam’s influence. They produce a lot of crops, which they sell raw and cheap to Vietnam. Vietnam then processes them and sells them back at a much higher price. Life is very expensive for them—an average of 500 dollars per month. At the same time, Cambodians drive big 4x4s, so many are doing well, but I don’t know what sector they work in. We head to Wat Hanchey, a hilltop complex of Hindu and Buddhist temples 20 km from KC.



Outside one of the pagodas, I recognize scenes from the Ramayana on the frescoes.



The complex is quite large, with beautiful colored or sculpted temples.







The views of the Mekong and the countryside are stunning.



The day was really enjoyable, and we return to the guesthouse, where Joelle’s French friends are waiting for us. We have drinks followed by a barbecue dinner at a restaurant near the market with Thomas and his family.

Wednesday, November 13th. I’m heading out again today with Sophal, the tuk-tuk driver. We cross the bamboo bridge connecting K.C. to Koh Paen Island. It hasn’t been rebuilt yet, so we have to take a ferry to reach the island.

The driver tells me the island is inhabited by Vietnamese people. It’s cultivated with rice paddies, vegetables, sorghum, banana trees, and jackfruit trees. Betel nuts are drying on tables.

The fruit on the tree.



On the way back, we visit Vat Nokor Bachey, a 12th-century Hindu temple.



Several young married couples are getting their photos taken. The brides aren’t comfortable in their shoes.



A group of French travelers arrives at the same time as me, accompanied by a guide. I follow them and take advantage of the explanations. This Buddhist temple is really beautiful and interesting, with stunning statues of guardians, nagas, and lions.





The ancient sanctuaries feature Buddhist scenes and floral motifs.



The more recent pagoda, brightly colored with vivid frescoes at the center of the complex.



Originally, this temple was Hindu, dedicated to Vishnu. A statue represents him with four arms, four hands, a conch shell, a sphere above his head symbolizing the earth.



This visit was really interesting. We continue our journey to Phnom Srei, the Women’s Hill. To get there, I have to climb over 200 steps in the heat. At the top, the view is blocked by vegetation. I won’t be going to the Men’s Hill. We return to K.C., and I get dropped off at the market before walking back to the guesthouse.

I just had an explanation on another forum about the KR (Khmer Rouge) in relation to the government. The explanation is important. I’m a bit surprised by what your guide told you about the Khmer Rouge still governing the country and making opponents disappear. He’s surely referring to the Hun family, whose son, Manet, is currently prime minister, and the father, Sen, was prime minister from 1985 to 2023 and is now president of the Senate. The latter did indeed join the Khmer Rouge in 1970 at the call of Prince Sihanouk, like thousands of peasants at the time, to fight the Lon Nol regime and the Americans who were bombing this part of Cambodia (particularly the eastern half of Kampong Cham province, now Tbong Khmum). But Hun Sen later deserted the KR forces, joined the Vietnamese to prepare for the invasion of Cambodia and the overthrow of the KR in December 1978, and then fought the KR until 1998 when the last KR rebels surrendered. It’s worth noting that in the 1980s, the West and China supported the KR internationally (the KR, based on the Thai border, officially held Cambodia’s UN seat), trained and armed them to fight the communist Vietnamese occupiers (who, for their part, exploited their control over Cambodia to systematically plunder the country’s resources). Sihanouk was also on the KR’s side at the time. You can criticize the ruling family and all the allied families who surround them and share the strategic government positions, but it’s undeniable that the country has been at peace since 1997. Unfortunately, there are still Cambodians who listen to the rants of the opposition figure Sam Rainsy, exiled in France, and claim that the Khmer Rouge are still in power, or that it’s actually the Vietnamese, or even that the massacres carried out from 1975 to 1979 were simply the work of the Vietnamese (when they don’t say that the KR and the Vietnamese are one and the same!). Some even claim that Hun Sen is Vietnamese, despite the fact that he was born near Wat Hanchey, which you visited. Vietnam does have economic influence over Cambodia, of course—I live near the border in the area mentioned, and I see a lot of raw products going to our neighbor (cashews, rubber wood, cassava). However, the Cambodian government has laid the first stone for a canal linking the Mekong, via the Bassac, to the Gulf of Thailand near Kampot, an economic move that doesn’t please Vietnam at all! We can also say that if the KR were still in power, all the Muslim Chams and the “Khmer Islam” you saw around Krouyt Chhmar along the Mekong, where there are as many mosques as pagodas, would have been massacred or deported long ago, as they were under the KR regime from 1975 (for Phnom Penh, earlier for this region) to 1979.

There you go, sorry for the long post, but I wanted to clarify things since I hear so much nonsense from some Cambodians—and unfortunately, even from guides.

Thursday, Nov 14. Departure at 8 AM for Kratie. There are two of us in the van, which is loaded with bags. I booked at Tonle GH, which is facing the Mekong and run by an NGO. The staff is really friendly, the room is large and clean, the terrace overlooks the promenade along the Mekong, and the stay looks promising.



Kratie is a good choice—I feel comfortable here. I have lunch by the Mekong at Jasmine restaurant. I stroll through the market and stop by the pagoda.

I head to the Koh Trong island pier. A tuk-tuk stops and offers its services to take me to see the dolphins. Before leaving France, I didn’t want to go, but since I’ve been in Cambodia, several French travelers have told me the trip was nice, so I’ll check it out without much conviction. I schedule a meet-up for the next day at 3:30 PM. Tonight, I dine at Tonle—the food is delicious and well-presented.

Friday, Nov 15. After breakfast, I ask the receptionist to book a bus to BanLung for tomorrow at 8 AM ($10). This morning, I visit Koh Trong island. At the pier, quite a few of us are waiting for the ferry, which makes regular trips. There are no cars on this island, and you can rent bikes to explore it.

This island could be called the "pomelo island" because there are pomelos everywhere.



The island is cultivated—rice fields, pomelo trees, banana trees, vegetables, cows, chickens, roosters. It’s the heart of the countryside.

Stop at the pagoda.

On the way back, I have lunch again at Tonle—I really like this place. At 3:30 PM, the tuk-tuk arrives, and we head off to see the Irrawaddy dolphins. They’re individual boats ($10). We don’t go very far; the boatman doesn’t even need to start the engine. About ten boats are stopped. The dolphins pop their heads up—once on the right, once on the left. I get the feeling the show is well-rehearsed. We stay a long time just floating in place, then we all leave at the same time for a short ride before heading back. I found the outing a bit of a tourist trap—I wonder if the dolphins are fed to stay so close to the pier and all grouped together.

The sunset is pretty—that’s something, at least.



He wants to take me to the Phnom Sambok temple, which is on a hill with 300 steps. At nightfall, I don’t feel up to climbing it. Back to the GH.

We stayed a long time just hanging around, then we all left at the same time to take a little walk before heading back. I found the exit slightly misleading—I wonder if the dolphins are fed to stay so close to the boarding area and all grouped together..

That’s exactly how we felt too We’d just come from Laos and the 4,000 Islands, which we’d loved, so we were less enthusiastic about this region.

Ohh, I’m so glad I’m not the only one who felt this way! In India, in the Andaman Islands, my friend Raja told me several times that he’d seen people feeding fish by the shore to make tourists think there were loads of them. I think it’s the same thing here[:/]

Did you prefer Laos over Cambodia? I’m hoping to go this autumn, and I decided to start with Cambodia because I think it’s less spectacular—at least in terms of landscapes—but that’s just my impression.

I’d say I preferred Laos, but this trip was a bit special. My husband was born in Laos, and it was his first time going back, so there were a lot of emotions involved. Laos is still very undeveloped except in Vientiane or Luang Prabang, which is very touristy. The Lao people are really endearing—they don’t have much, but they’re so generous. Bruno (Montagnard73) went there recently; he’ll probably have a more objective take than me.

So Miss Rouquine39 (from Lons-le-Saunier or Pontarlier?), I’m Montagnard74, and as a good neighbor, you must know we’re very sensitive about this topic [:P] [;)] .

That said, can you really have an opinion between two countries? Did I prefer France or Italy? Even more so, can you be objective after spending only one month in these countries? Certainly not...

So, my take: Cambodia is much better "structured" in terms of tourism. In Laos, it’s still sometimes artisanal (and I love that). I deliberately chose Northern Laos for its mountains and villages lost in the middle of nowhere. I think you can find that in Cambodia too, but I prioritized the big sites (Siem Reap, PP...). What you show in your travel journal is a more rural Cambodia than I had time to see. So, in terms of landscapes, I won’t weigh in.

The interactions with people seemed maybe more "genuine" in Laos—it’s a comparison I could also make between Burmese and Vietnamese people. But it’s also the number of visitors that makes this difference.

So, yes, I had a feeling of "too little" during my trip to Laos—I’d go back more easily than to Cambodia. On the other hand, don’t wait too long—the Laotians are being overtaken by the Chinese, and that could quickly change the situation....

So Miss Rouquine39 (from Lons-le-Saunier or Pontarlier?), I’m Montagnard74, and as a good neighbor, you should know we’re very sensitive about this topic [:P] [;)] .

Oh, sorry for the mistake, but now you’re really testing me because Pontarlier isn’t in the Jura—it’s in the Doubs... and it’s a Doubs native from the Upper Doubs telling you that [:P]

So Miss Rouquine39 (from Lons-le-Saunier or Pontarlier?), I'm Montagnard74, and as a good neighbor, you should know we're very sensitive about this topic [:P] [;)] .

Oh, sorry for the mistake, but now you're really pushing it because Pontarlier isn't in the Jura but in the Doubs... and it's a Doubs local from the Upper Doubs telling you that [:P]

My bad. I'm not a fan of that area, that must be why …

Saturday, November 16th. A private car picks me up at 8 AM. It’s loaded with boxes and food that the driver delivers along the way. We arrive at 1 PM. I quickly find a tuk-tuk to take me to BeeBee’s GH, which I booked on Booking.com. I don’t know what to expect—it’s ridiculously cheap, but the reviews are outstanding. The guesthouse is way out of town, and I can’t believe my eyes when I arrive. The buildings look like barns with corrugated metal roofs. I’m really skeptical. The driver drops me off and leaves. A kid welcomes me and gives me the room at the entrance of the place. It’s unbearably hot inside, with no comfort at all and spiderwebs everywhere. There’s no way I can stay here. I wait a little while, but the owners are still nowhere to be found. I decide to head back into town to find a hotel—simple, but clean and comfortable. I don’t know if I’m getting old, but I can’t stay in a place like this anymore.

The first hotel is way too expensive, and the second one is too pricey as well, but the staff points me to another one 100 meters further—the Rattanak City Hotel for $15 a night. The room is spotless; it’s perfect. I head back to find a tuk-tuk to return to the guesthouse and pick up my luggage. I cancel my Booking.com reservation, which would’ve charged me for one night.

On the way, I passed by a restaurant called Green Carrot that looks nice and offers trips to local tribes. That’s exactly why I came here, so I stop by to ask for info while grabbing a snack. The guide is busy with a chatty Spanish guy. He runs Parrot Tours and is really friendly.

He suggests a few different trips, and I pick two. They’re day trips to different villages by motorbike. The guide will pick me up at the restaurant between 8:30 and 9 AM after breakfast. My spirits are back up—I’m thrilled! This is exactly what I wanted to see: tribal villages, animist cemeteries, semi-precious stone mines...

That evening, I come back for dinner. The food is great, and the staff is super friendly.

Sunday, November 17th Today, it’s the owner’s brother who guides me. He speaks a little French—his father taught him, and he’s improving by talking to tourists. We leave the city and quickly hit a red dirt road. He drives fast, dodging potholes. I’m not always at ease, but he handles the bike well. We ride for 45 km.

We arrive at a small village by a river. A boat is waiting, and we set off for a 45-minute ride. It’s lovely—fishermen are everywhere: some on the banks, others wading waist-deep to set nets, and some in boats.



In the village, the houses are made of wood and built on stilts. In the middle of the rice fields, small huts are set up where men take turns keeping watch over animals that might eat the crops. Mango trees grow among the rice fields.



The women are weaving baskets and mats for drying grains.



They also make beautiful baskets, but they’re hard to transport. Too bad—I would’ve loved to bring one back.



On the way out of the village, we take a jungle path that leads to an animist cemetery. The jungle has overtaken the old, unmaintained graves.



Wooden totems stand at the entrance of each grave, with human sculptures topped with animal horns.



Others have two logs stacked with two vertical planks, representing an elephant.



The roofs of the graves always depict a boat with an animal head at each end.



One grave isn’t built yet. The deceased won’t have a tomb until a year after death, giving the spirits time to leave the body. A big ceremony will be held—family members bring live animals for sacrifices, along with drinks... Neighbors and friends who attend will eat and celebrate, but the family can’t eat or drink so the deceased can rest in peace.



On some graves, an object that belonged to the deceased is left behind—here, it’s a motorcycle.



The graves are eventually abandoned, and nature takes over.

We head back to the dock. A woman is digging for water. She fills her jars and bottles slowly—what patience, especially in this heat.

We take the boat back and have lunch in the village before visiting other villages. We pass by cashew and rubber plantations. Cashews are harvested from January to April. Rubber trees start producing after 7 years and keep going for 40 years. Cassava is also grown here.

On the way back to BanLung, we stop for the guide to fill up his motorbike. The gas pump is pretty surprising. (I’ve hit the photo limit—too bad!)

I’m thrilled with today. For dinner, I go back to the same restaurant, where the guide is with a group of French travelers. It’s packed, and the service is a little slow, but the food is good. On my way back to the hotel, I pass by a laundry that’s still open. I grab my clothes—they’ve turned red from the dirt road!

Thanks Isabelle and Bruno—I think Laos will be more magical for me. I really regret not going to Myanmar; I was saving that country for retirement, and now that I’m retired, it’s no longer possible to visit. From Banlung onward, the trip became much more exciting for me. I love life in the tribal villages.

Monday, November 18 I switch guides, and this one also speaks a little French. We drive for 60 km; his driving is calmer, and he goes much slower. We stop in a village where the women are weaving when we arrive. The houses are nicely decorated, and there’s even a house for unmarried girls. At 15, girls sleep in this kind of hut near the family home until they meet a man. If the parents discover in the morning that their daughter has slept with a man, marriage is considered.

I find similarities with Chhattisgarh in India, both in the animist cemeteries and the houses for unmarried girls. The meeting house has a beautiful facade. This easily accessible village is touristy. Soybeans are drying near a house. We take a jungle track that leads us to gemstone mines. These mines are located in a rubber tree forest. Women with their children fill in the abandoned mine holes. The men dig holes over 25 meters deep, creating tunnels with closely spaced shafts to give them some air to breathe. A team goes down at 6 AM until 11 AM. They have a one-hour break, and another team takes over in the afternoon from 1 PM to 4 PM. We see them come back exhausted and take a while in the shade to recover. I don’t know if they find many stones, but I didn’t see any during the visit. It’s really impressive.





We go to another village and stop at a house the guide knows. The woman guides us to an abandoned cemetery where the jungle is taking over the graves.



Other graves have mosquito nets to protect the deceased from evil spirits.

In another village, I visit a traditional house.



They’re drying tobacco, and a woman is smoking a pipe. In another house, crossbows and poisoned arrows for hunting hang on the entrance wall. We pass by a school where the kids are well-behaved and disciplined.



On the way back, he stops and shows me a sesame plantation, then peanuts. We arrive at a large pepper plantation. The view is stunning.

At the entrance, a family sorts plastic bottles, removes the labels, and they’ll be recycled in machines under the shed. The amount of bottles is impressive.

Back in BanLung, I get dropped off at the market, and he takes me to buy some pepper. It’s much cheaper than in Kampot—I’ll see if there’s a big difference in taste. As I write this, I haven’t tasted it yet.

a few more photos. the gas pump



crossbow and arrows





traditional house



sesame



peanuts



another beautiful landscape in the Ban Lung region

Tuesday, November 19 This morning I leave for Stung Treng. I settle in at Savet GH, which is well-located, clean, and comfortable. I stroll along the Mekong, then visit the market and the pagoda. There’s not much to do here. In the evening, a heavy downpour hits just as I’m about to leave for dinner, and the restaurant I’d stopped by earlier is closed. It’s a ghost town—everything shuts by 9 PM. I have to make do with a bag of chips.

Wednesday, November 20. Breakfast is a welcome sight this morning. I take the bus at 9 AM for Siem Reap, where I’ll be staying for a week. I’ve booked a room at Okay GH. It’s tucked away in a quiet alley, the staff is super friendly, and the room is comfortable. I’m going to have a great week here. I head out to explore the city and end up on the super touristy street I’ve nicknamed "Thirsty Street"—wow, I’m not used to this scene, it’s wild.



I have dinner at Khmer Taste, a restaurant in a quieter side street. It’s a hotspot for tourists, but the food is delicious and the prices are super reasonable.

I walk back to the GH—1.5 km—hoping I don’t get lost in all these streets.

I’m heading out to explore the city and end up on this super touristy street I’m calling “Thirst Street”—wow, I’m not used to this scene, it’s wild!



Okay, now we’re getting into territory I’m more familiar with [;)] And just so you know, everyone calls this street “Thirst Street.”

Thursday, November 21st. I rented a bike at the GH and set off at 08:00 to buy the weekly pass ($72). It’s pretty easy to get there. At first, I take a big avenue toward the museum, then turn left—it’s straight ahead from there. I can even take a bike path. The road goes through the forest with lots of shade, which is really nice despite the humid heat. I start the visits with the small circuit while the groups are at Angkor Wat. First stop: Prasat Kravan. It’s a temple with five towers on a common red-brick platform, dedicated to Vishnu.

Some beautiful bas-reliefs are carved into the brick inside two of the towers. Vishnu with eight arms, Vishnu riding Garuda, Vishnu holding a lotus, a conch, a sword, and a discus.

Lakshmi stands surrounded by worshippers (figures in prayer).

Second stop: Banteay Kdei. A Buddhist temple. The entrance is topped with four faces of Buddha.

Many bas-reliefs featuring numerous apsaras (sacred dancers).

Across from it is Sra Srang, the sacred basin.

Third stop: Prasat Ta Prohm. A stunning temple with many silk-cotton trees—really beautiful, but their enormous roots entwine the ruins. Impressive.



Fourth stop: Ta Keo, the mountain temple.

Back toward Angkor Thom. I pass by Prasat Suor Prat, across from the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants. Stop at the Victory Gate or south gate (sunset). It’s decorated with sculptures of Hindu deities on the left and demons on the right, plus four giant statues—two on each side—representing the mythical guardians of the empire.

I really love Banteay Kdei, a long, sprawling temple that reminds me a bit of Preah Khan. You’re almost always alone there—I’ve never seen more than a dozen tourists at once across 5-6 visits. It’s not very well-known among tourists, even though its location means it could easily be included in either the small circuit or the grand tour. All the better in the end! [:)]

"And just so you know, everyone calls this street 'la rue de la soif'"

and there I was hoping I had an original quote [:)] you totally ruined it for me [:/]

True, there weren’t many people at Banteay Kdei, and I really liked this temple. It’s also super easy to get there by bike.

It's a great idea to explore Angkor by bike... but do they have e-bikes?? [;)] I really loved Prasat Ta Prohm with the trees embracing the stones. Beautiful sunset photo, Marie Jo [:)]

Friday, November 22nd. I’m heading back with my bicycle—I loved the freedom of wandering at my own pace. The ride there is really pleasant. This morning, I start at Angkor Wat, arriving at 8:45 AM. There are a lot of us who’ve arranged to meet up here—actually, *way* too many.

In a word: **MAGNIFICENT.** Beautiful sculptures adorn the walls, lintels, and pediments. The Devatas and Apsaras number over 2,000, each with unique costumes, jewelry, and headdresses.

A stunning eight-armed Vishnu statue.



Gorgeous bas-reliefs depicting the epics of the Ramayana and the Mahabharata stretch across entire walls—meters and meters of breathtaking artistry.

It’s incredible, but there are way too many people to fully appreciate it. I’ll come back another day in the late morning.



It’s 11:30 AM, so I hop back on my bike and pedal to the Bayon. You can’t miss it—the faces decorating the towers are visible from afar. This temple is magical and mesmerizing.



Here, too, there are beautiful bas-reliefs stretching for meters.



Just look up to see those captivating faces.



I continue my visits—Thommanon is just 3.5 km away. Yesterday, I rode right past it and forgot to stop. I’m going way too fast on my bike!! I pause at one of the gates—they’re extraordinary, too, with their faces.

The Thommanon temple isn’t far from the gate. It’s a Hindu temple.



Quick lunch break near the Terrace of the Elephants. Checking my guide and map, I see that Prasat Khan is only 3 km away.

"but do they have e-bikes??" but no, I pedal [;)] and I loved it, and if I had to do it again, I’d do it all over. Ohh, I saw your photos—the lion families are so cute. It must be so moving to see all those wild animals. You must be dreaming about them at night after all those encounters.

It’s way more impressive than the Ta Prohm temple. You’ll also find those huge silk-cotton trees with their sprawling roots.







On the way back, we stopped at the Terrace of the Elephants.





The sky clouded over, and just as we arrived at Angkor Wat, a little shower unfortunately showed up right at sunset.

Ohh, I saw your lion family photos—they’re so cute! It must be so moving to see all those wild animals. You must be dreaming about them at night after all those encounters.

Yeah, I love seeing animals, and working on my travel journal makes me really want to go back to Africa

Saturday, Nov 23. I booked a day of tours to Banteay Srei and five other temples on Booking—it’s my first time. At 8 AM, a driver picks me up at the guesthouse, and we head to the shuttle lounge. By 8:30 AM, we’re on a minibus with five of us for the tours, plus the guide and driver.

We start with Banteay Srei, 40 km away.



Banteay Srei, which means "Citadel of Women" or "Citadel of Fortune," is a Hindu temple.



When we arrive, it’s already crowded. The temple is stunning—small in size but uniquely rich and refined in its sculptures. This is where Malraux tried to steal a bas-relief in 1923.



The pediments are intricately carved, featuring Shiva holding his trident and Parvati mounted on Nandi.





Here, elephants are pouring water over Lakshmi.



On this one, you can see Indra on the elephant Airavata.



The sanctuaries.



The sanctuaries are also richly decorated.



The guide rushes through the tour, and I’m always lagging behind—I don’t have time to enjoy it as much as I’d like. We move outside the temple, and the guide takes us to a viewpoint over rice fields and a pond with lotus flowers. Then, he leads us to a shed displaying photos of the temple. The guide tells me the visit is over, and we head back to the minibus. I’m happy I got to see it but disappointed by how fast it was. If I ever return to Angkor, I’ll spend a whole morning here. It’s extraordinary. Michel Petrotchenko’s *Guide to the Temples of Angkor* is essential for recognizing all the sculptures.

One last look at the sculptures: - At the top: Shiva and Parvati on his lap. The god stabilizes the mountain with his right foot. - Below: hermits; to their right, a woman praying. - Below that: a row of Orans with animal heads (lion, elephant, birds, horse). - Ravana with multiple heads and arms; animals fleeing on the sides.

It’s an open-air museum and one of my favorites.

We’re heading to Pre Rup Temple, an imposing brick pyramid with several tiers.



The stairs are steep to climb up.



At the top, the central tower is surrounded by four other towers.



It’s time for lunch. We’re continuing to Preah Khan Temple, which I’ve already visited—seeing it again isn’t a problem.



The beautiful silk-cotton trees







The Hall of Dancers

A little further on, Preah Neak Pean



A walkway along a large basin leads us to the sanctuaries surrounded by small pools.

We continue to Ta Som with its face tower at its entrance.





Impressive, these invading trees





And we finish at East Mebon Oriental.



A beautiful lintel with Indra on a three-headed elephant here too.



Mission accomplished. Angkor is magical, huge, captivating—I love it!

Sunday, Nov 24 Morning at the museum. The visit is interesting. Many Buddhas are on display, standing or seated in various meditation positions.



I continue through the palace gardens and the colonial-house district, visiting a pagoda.

A pain in my lower back and down my thigh flares up (sciatica?), but I still need to go to the market to pick up some souvenirs. I’ll grab lunch before heading back to rest.

Still such a pleasure to see these ancient sites. But I’m surprised by the crowds you ran into! Back in early January when we went, there weren’t nearly as many. Was there a special event going on?