je voudrais traverser le Soudan depuis Wadi Halfa (j'arriverais du Caire) jusqu'à Gondar en Ethiopie vers le mois de mars/avril.
pour n'avoir jamais été dans la région je n'ai pas beaucoup d'idée sur les possibilités et les conditions de déplacements à l'heure actuelle.
comment peut-on se rendre de Wadi Halfa à Khartoum ? puis de Karthoum à la frontière éthiopienne ?
cet itinéraire paraît-il aux connaisseurs faisable seul et désargenté ?
Pour y avoir été lors de deux voyages distincts (je n’ai pas passé les frontières terrestres), je vais tenter d’éclairer votre lanterne.
Avant tout, vous ne précisez pas si vous prendrez votre temps ou si c’est juste pour traverser le Soudan « au plus vite »
Il y a en effet plusieurs sites à découvrir le long du Nil et quelques endroits plus décentrés (qui nécessite d’affréter un véhicule)
Une fois arrivé à Halfa, il y a la possibilité de prendre le train ou des bus. Le bus classique est une base de camion sur lequel est monté l’arrière d’un bus.
C’est du costaud. Il met plus de 24h à rallier Khartoum
Le train est un train africain… Cela veut tout dire…
Si vous avez le temps, l’idéal est de descendre par étapes, en utilisant bus et bokasis (pick-up Hilux)
La frontière soudano-éthiopienne est entre Gedaref et Gonder. Il ya de nombreux bus qui relient Khartoum à Gedaref sur une route tout à fait correcte. De Gedaref, vous irez en direction de Gonder. Je n’ai jamais traversé cette frontière et ignore les modalités pratiques (mais d’autres intervenants sur VF ont passé cette frontière dans les deux sens)
Le Bradt (tant celui du Soudan que celui d’Ethiopie) donne les modalités.
Il n’y a rien de sorcier à circuler seul au Soudan. Le seul critère à prendre en compte est le temps. Pays très bord****** et organisation « particulière »
Les transports collectifs ne sont pas chers. En règle générale, vous payez tjs le vrai prix de la course.
D’après les interventions sur ce forum, il me semble que c’est Jef974 (vivant à La Réunion) qui est/serait le dernier a avoir traversé la frontière entre Ethiopie et Soudan mais dans le sens Gonder-Gedaref.
Il est plus à même que moi pour vous donner des infos plus spécifiques à cette partie de votre périple.
Vous devriez être à même de le retrouver. Il avait posté un compte rendu tant sur son séjour au Soudan qu’en Ethiopie.
Merci beaucoup pr ces précieux renseignements (et pr tous ceux que j'ai pu glaner de vous à travers les différentes discussions sur la région).
Mon idée est de traverser le Soudan à la fois rapidement (ne pas m'éloigner de la route Halfa-Khartoum-Gedaref) mais en prenant le temps de voir les principaux sites sur le trajet (Dongola ?, Méroé ?...) ; je suis près à faire un détour si un site en vaut absolument la peine (?), mais je n'aurais sans doute pas les moyens de me louer un véhicule pour m'éloigner plus loin. Donc je pense que je vais suivre vos conseils et descendre par étapes en bus et en stop. Puis sans doute prendre un bus pour rejoindre Gedaref.
Pensez vous que je peux miser sur 3/4 jours Halfa-Khartoum (suffisant pour profiter des principaux sites ?), 1 ou 2 jours à Khartoum (la ville en mérite-t-elle davantage?), une journée pr rejoindre Gedaref, une autre pour rejoindre Gonder ?
Je vois que les Bradt Soudan et Ethiopie, dont vous êtes plusieurs à vanter les mérites sur le forum, datent de 2005. Me conseillez vous tout de même d'investir 60€ ? Je n'ai pour l'instant que le LP Africa.
Bonjour !
Je n'ai pas l'expérience de Michel en ce qui concerne les transports locaux, vu que je loue toujours un véhicule avec chauffeur. Si j'interviens, c'est pour dire que le Bradt est utile, même s'il date un peu et ignore la construction de certains ponts. Pour les sites, leur intérêt et leur localisation, il est parfait. Bien sûr Meroe, le Djebel Barkal, Old Dongola et quelques autres "valent le détour", ne fut-ce que par leur pathétique et fier isolement; je ne vais pas ici remplacer le Bradt en citant tous les endroits que j'ai aimés, juste ajouter que souvent ils sont assez isolés et demandent... du temps. Khartoum n'est pas un lieu incontournable. Le Soudan est un pays très spécial, fermé et fascinant. Bonne route, Virginie
Selon moi, il y a 3 à 4 sites qui valent vraiment la peine d’être vus. Je ne vais pas citer Ghazali (le monastère près de Mérowé, le hub de Karima) ni Naqa qui nécessitent tout deux d’affréter un véhicule depuis Shendi (pour Naqa) et Mérowé pour Ghazali.
Avec les transports collectifs et en ne devant pas marcher déraisonnablement, il y a quelques très beaux sites à visiter (mais n’oubliez-pas, en plus de vous faire enregistrer à Wadi Halfa, de vous procurer les permis pour les sites (logiquement tjs 10 USD/site)
Djebel Barkal situé en périphérie de Karima vaut la peine d’être visité.
Si le cœur vous dit, vous serez à quelques bornes d’El Kuru (tombes) et Nuri (pyramides)
Old Dongola situé sur la rive orientale du Nil, en face du village d’El Ghaba est un site magnifique. J’ai indiqué tous les détails sur un post. Il s’agit de l’ancienne localisation de Dongola.
Méroé (deux clusters de pyramides) à 500 mètres de la route Khartoum-Shendi-Atbara.
Site situé entre Shendi et Atbara. Bus qui passent sur la route.
Le boksi (un pick-up Hilux) et le bus sont les deux modes de transports au Nord-Soudan.
Le stop est impératif. La patience de mise…
Il est pratiquement impossible de donner une idée du temps nécessaire pour relier Halfa à Khartoum pour plusieurs raisons :
En fractionnant (fort logiquement) les étapes, vous dépendez des transports. Au nord de Dongola, c’est très désordonné et relève d’une logique peu logique ! Le vendredi, c’est le calme plat ! Les bokasis ne circulent parfois plus pour des raisons obscures et il faut toujours compter large.
Les trois sites « incontournables » sont bien situés à proximité du Nil et de voies de communication mais il n’y a pas de liaisons directes entre eux. Old Dongola est « mal situé » en vous obligeant soit à remonter sur Dongola et puis traverser vers Karima ou à descendre vers Abu Dom et le croisement des routes entre Mérowé-Karima, Dongola et Khartoum puis de remonter vers Mérowé-Karima.
Aller de Karima (Djebel Barkal) à Méroé vous oblige à relier Atbara en boksi (10 heures par le désert, du moins si pas de route goudronnée) puis de redescendre en direction de Shendi ou alors de repasser par Khartoum (Mogof Shendi à Bahri) pour reprendre un bus pour Atbara (qui va vous déposer « aux pieds » des pyramides)
Comme vous vous en doutez, le mieux est de ne pas vous focaliser sur les dates. Il se peut que tout se passe comme vous le souhaitiez mais l’inverse est vrai aussi !
Le plus simple serait de prendre le bus pour Khartoum si et seulement s’il passe par Dongola (c’est la route logique mais Soudan et logique ne font pas bon ménage) car ainsi il prolonge sur El Ghaba. Il n’y a pas d’hôtel (le plus proche se situant à El Deba) mais vous négocierez le bout de gras avec un commerçant ou un habitant pour vous trouver un bout de toit.
Je n’ai par contre pas la moindre idée de l’heure d’arrivée à El Ghaba. Dieu seul le sait… Et encore…
Si pas de bus, utilisez les bokasis et panachez-les jusqu’à atteindre El Ghaba.
De El Ghaba, vous descendez au début de la route Abu Dom – Khartoum (mais n’allez pas à Abu Dom). A la première gargote (elles se font face), vous descendez du véhicule et vous traversez pour faire du stop ou prendre le premier lift qui passe pour Mérowé. Après avoir passé le bac, vous vous trouvez un lift jusqu’à Karima.
Vous quittez Karima par boksi pour Atbara puis redescendrez jusqu’à Méroé.
A Khartoum, hormis Omdurman et la confluence (mais pour cette dernière, attention aux militaires postés à côté du pont et qui deviennent (encore plus) nerveux lorsque l’on sort son appareil !), il n’y a rien à voir. L’ambiance est très lourde et plombée.
Et ce n’est certainement pas depuis que le TPI s’intéresse encore plus à El Bechir et la « visite » de la colonne de rebelles dans les faubourgs d’Omdurman que l’ambiance est plus relaxe… Restez-y le minimum (visa pour l’Ethiopie ?) puis quittez-la.
Je ne suis pas un « overlander » et n’ai (jusqu’à présent) jamais voyagé que dans un seul pays à la fois. Je comprends parfaitement que vous ayez acheté le LP Africa (que je possède également) mais, déjà en ce qui concerne le Soudan et la partie Nord qui vous intéresse, il est on ne peut plus léger… Même pas une page !
De par son concept (réunir tous les pays africains en un volume), la couverture des pays est généralement minimaliste. Si certains tirent mieux leur épingle du jeu (Egypte par exemple), le Soudan est réellement « maltraité » et il y a bien plus à dire (et à voir) en Ethiopie que ne le suggère le LP.
Pour ce dernier point, même le guide « spécifique » LP (mais qui inclut également l’Erythrée) n’arrive pas à la cheville du Bradt. Il ne faut pas demander pour le LP Africa !
Bradt ne souffre pas des mêmes maux qu’Hachette qui s’évertue à faire croire qu’il sort un nouveau titre chaque année (confer GDR) mais ils sont une excellente base. Effectivement, certains titres sont plus anciens mais ils demeurent une référence.
Plans, cartes et infos de base demeurent globalement d’actualité même s’il est vrai que certaines ne le sont plus ou ont changé. Mais c’est le lot de toute publication papier.
Le titre consacré à l’Ethiopie étant une véritable mine d’or pour l’indépendant.
Je reste persuadé qu’il y a moyen d’en trouver sur Amazon en seconde main. Ils ne sont peut-être pas « nickels » mais avec la poussière que vous allez avoir, ils ne le seraient de toute façon pas restés bien longtemps !
Il y a toujours la possibilité de les « bricoler » et de réduire dès lors la pagination afin de ne prendre que les chapitres « essentiels » avec vous. A moins que votre périple soit encore plus grand et que vous parcouriez une grande partie du continent ?
un grand merci à vous deux. Je me lance seul à l'aventure, n'ayant jamais mis les pieds dans la région et ne connaissant personne étant passé par là, et c'est extrêmement réconfortant de vous lire !
C'est vrai qu'un de mes principal souci est le poids, puisque je compte en effet parcourir plusieurs pays (au moins du Caire j'à Nairobi) et que je ne peux multiplier les guides à l'infini. Mais vous m'avez convaincu pour les Bradt : je viens de les acheter pour pas trop cher sur Amazon (malheureusement je pars dans 15 jours car j'ai vu qu'une nouvelle version du Bradt Ethiopia sort en avril).
Bon voyage également ! Suis très curieuse de connaître vos impressions, j'espère que nous les aurons à votre retour. En lisant les posts de Michel, je me suis souvenue de Gazhali, un lieu magique - mais vraiment loin des routes principales, j'ai même dû insister auprès de mon chauffeur pour qu'il m'y conduise ! Voir les cataractes du Nil destinées à disparaître dans le nouveau barrage fut aussi une belle expérience (mais on a dû rouler longtemps dans le désert, la route étant interdite). Encore une fois bon voyage, vous allez parcourir une Afrique inoubliable (et oubliez le LP Afrique, que j'ai aussi, vraiment minimaliste et inutile, juste une mise en bouche préalable). Virginie
salut l amis ... c est moi billel qui ta render un service au niveau d alger, ce qui concerne les prix des hotesl a alger .....
bon je te fais un rappelle juste pour te dire que jai changer mon pseudonime car l autrre je l ai perdu a cause de mon mot de passe..
ainsi jour
Bonjour
J’ ai une faveur un peu spéciale à vous demander, je collectionne les pièces de monnaies étrangères comtemporaines depuis peu de temps .
Mon ambition est d’ avoir au moins une pièce de monnaies de tous les pays du monde mais cela n’ est pas facile.
N' ayant aucune pièce du Soudan, auriez vous la sympathie de m’ envoyer une pièce qui complètera ma collection .Je serais très ravi de cet envoi .
C’ est pour moi la seule façon de voyager à travers le monde.
Cordialement
Alain
Voici mon adresse :
Monsieur Alain Poulain
83 Allée du clos des Houssayes
76520 La Neuville Chant d’ Oisel
FRANCE
Bonjour
J'interviens après Michel et Virginie (un petit salut à chacun de vous), non sur l'itinéraire qu'ils maîtrisent très bien tout les deux, mais pour les visas (sauf si vous les avez déjà).
Le Soudan demande vraisemblablement un minimum de 15 jours. C'est probablement sur votre trajet le visa a obtenir le plus difficilement. Vous pouvez obtenir plus facilement (très rapidement) et pour moins cher un visa de transit de 15 jours au lieu du visa touristique de 1 mois.
Si vous optez pour le visa de transit, deux éléments à retenir. Il faudra obtenir préalablement le visa du pays de destination, dans votre cas le visa éthiopien, avant de déposer votre demande de visa au consulat de Soudan en Egypte. Pour déterminer la date d'entrée au Soudan à Halfa, tenez compte du jour de départ du ferry + 1 j pour le trajet. Ainsi vous aurez 15 jours pleins. Enfin sur une semaine prenez un jour de battement comme marge d'erreur.
A Halfa pour rejoindre Kartoum ne prenez pas le train : manque de confort. J'ai rencontré un anglais costaud qui est arrivé épuiser à Halfa.
Il n'y a aucun problème de sécurité sur le tronçon. Dans le désert les chauffeurs ne vous abandonneront pas dans le village, mais vous déposeront dans une maison, même en pleine nuit. L'hospitalité des gens du désert est grande. Moi je n'y ai rencontré aucun difficulté. Plus vous vous rapprocherez de Khartoum plus la police sera présente.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Éthiopie / Soudan · 9 replies
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Voyager en camping-car › Soudan / Éthiopie · 19 replies
J'ai posé la question en partie sur le forum Afrique, mais visiblement personne n'a de réponse là-bas... Et comme nous partons avec un van VW syncro aménagé,…
Je voudrais traverser le Soudan en 4X4, en venant de Lybie (pour éviter l'Egypte car la caution pour le carnet passage en douane est double) et pour continuer…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Soudan / Éthiopie · 10 replies
J’ai réservé mon vol pour Le Caire le 13 janvier, je vais remonter le Nil par bateau jusqu’au Lac Naser, delà je veux traverser le Soudan pour rejoindre l…
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Hi,
I’m heading to Angola for two weeks starting mid-April and I’d like to rent a car to explore the country, but not a 4x4 to keep my budget in check. I plan to mostly stay in the western part and go as far as the Namibian border. Is it possible to drive in Iona Park without a 4x4, or to get to Kalendula or Piedra Negras? Also, is the Lubango–Huambo–Kuito–Malanje route doable in a city car? Lastly, do gas stations accept Visa?
Thanks for your feedback and tips!
Now that the Kruger part is (almost) wrapped up, I’m looking at the "Cape region" section.
The idea of spending 2 days (well, more like 2 nights and 1.5 days) in the Cederberg is really tempting 😎.
I’ve reread the posts about it—more or less (actually, more less than more)—and I still have quite a few questions:
- Where’s the best area to stay? Initially, I was looking at Kagga Kama, but I’m not sure if it’s worth the cost (or the trip, for that matter), or maybe Mount Ceder? Or somewhere else (without driving 6 or 8 hours from CT 😉)?
The plan is to get there in a sedan (if possible), see some beautiful landscapes, and do one or two hikes (nothing too tough 😛).
- I read that you need a permit to hike there... where do you buy it? (At the entrance, like in Kruger? 🤪)
- Is October a good time for the weather (theoretically...)?
