Trek de Kanji à Tsokmitsik (Ladakh)
by Huguetter
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour
Je me pose pas mal de questions sur ce trek qui se déroule comme suit :
Kanji/ Dibling /lingshed sumdo puis Hanuma la et reprise de la traversée classique jusqu' a Pidmo en 8 jours ?
Ensuite apres un peu de repos a Padum jeep jusqu' a Dorzong /purne/phuktal/Yata/Nyalokungse la /Satak/ Tsokmitsik /brandy nalah en 7 jours ?
Quelqu' un a t il fait ce trajet ?
Merci d' avance 😉
Bonjour,
J'avais préparé ce trek sur le papier il y a quelques années, mais je n'ai pas pu le réaliser. J'étais arrivé très tôt en juillet à Kanji et les locaux m'ont dit qu'il y avait trop d'eau pour le moment dans le torrent qui descend du Pudzong La avant Dibling.
Il faut donc partir plus tard en août quand la fonte des neiges est terminée, et s'il a peu neigé l'hiver précédent, ce sera un avantage.
Les étapes sont les suivantes : - 1 : aux 2/3 de la montée du Kanji La, - 2 : confluent du Kanji La Tokpo et du Pudzong La Tokpo, - 3 : après le Pudzong La et avant Dibling, - 4 : Lingshed Sumdo. L'étape 4 oblige à de nombreuses traversées de la rivière Oma Chu. Une variante plus pénible permet de relier directement Dibling à Lingshed en franchissant trois cols dont un à plus de 5000 m. La suite se passe sur l'itinéraire classique de la Traversée du Zanskar : Hanuma La, - 5 : Snertse, Parfi La, - 6 : Hanumil, Pidmo, - 7 : Zangla. On peut donc être en 7 jours à Pidmo, mais il est dommage de ne pas prendre une journée pour Lingshed et une autre pour Zangla, avant de rejoindre Padum par la route.
La deuxième partie est plus facile avec un seul passage délicat ; la traversée de la Zara Chu. On peut aller en voiture jusqu'à Dorzong, un hameau de deux maisons, et même jusqu'aux abords de Anmu qu'on peut atteindre le même jour après 1 h de marche (en 2016, mais les travaux avancent vite !). Ensuite Anmu-Phuktal se fait dans la journée. On ne passe pas à Purne, et si vous avez des chevaux, ils ne peuvent pas emprunter les nouvelles passerelles de Anmu et de Phuktal, ils sont obligés de passer à Cha et de rejoindre Phuktal directement par un sentier qui a été amélioré. De plus, il n'y a pas de place pour les chevaux à Phuktal et je ne sais pas comment font les horsemen. Yayta est un emplacement de camp avec une petite source d'une très bonne eau, mais à seulement 4h30 de Phuktal . Le problème est que le prochain bon emplacement (bon pour les hommes et pour les chevaux) se trouve près de Tantak soit 4h30 de plus. Le camp suivant se trouve entre le Nyalo Kongtse La et le Gotunta La, à 3h30 de Tantak et à 6h de Yayta. Avant d'attaquer les cols, un détour de 1h30, donc 3h aller-retour permet d'aller au bord du splendide lac de Tso Tok Phu. Tout ça représente beaucoup de combinaisons possibles pour les étapes dans ce secteur. Après le Gotunta La, on descend dans la vallée de Shun, inondée du 1er janvier au 5 mai 2016 par un grand lac dû à un glissement de terrain qui a complètement obstrué la vallée en aval de Marshun, et qui a craqué le 5 mai en détruisant tous les ponts existant jusqu'à Chiling. La passerelle de Marshun a été emportée, et on reste donc sur la rive droite de la Tsarap Chu. C'est là qu'on va rencontrer la Zara Chu, qui pose parfois de gros problèmes pour sa traversée. L'été dernier, en 2016, elle se passait facilement car il avait très peu neigé l'hiver précédent et beaucoup de torrents étaient à sec. Personne ne peut prédire ce que sera l'hiver prochain ! Après ça, c'est une série de up & down le long de la Tsarap jusqu'à la route avec une étape à Satak et une autre à Tsometsik. Faire Padum - route Manali-Leh en 7 jours est possible, mais il faut alors oublier le détour au Tso Tok Phu, et faire Yayta-NyaloKontseLa en une étape.
J'espère que tu auras les précisions de quelqu'un qui est allé se promener dans ces parages peu fréquentés. A +, J.L.
Les étapes sont les suivantes : - 1 : aux 2/3 de la montée du Kanji La, - 2 : confluent du Kanji La Tokpo et du Pudzong La Tokpo, - 3 : après le Pudzong La et avant Dibling, - 4 : Lingshed Sumdo. L'étape 4 oblige à de nombreuses traversées de la rivière Oma Chu. Une variante plus pénible permet de relier directement Dibling à Lingshed en franchissant trois cols dont un à plus de 5000 m. La suite se passe sur l'itinéraire classique de la Traversée du Zanskar : Hanuma La, - 5 : Snertse, Parfi La, - 6 : Hanumil, Pidmo, - 7 : Zangla. On peut donc être en 7 jours à Pidmo, mais il est dommage de ne pas prendre une journée pour Lingshed et une autre pour Zangla, avant de rejoindre Padum par la route.
La deuxième partie est plus facile avec un seul passage délicat ; la traversée de la Zara Chu. On peut aller en voiture jusqu'à Dorzong, un hameau de deux maisons, et même jusqu'aux abords de Anmu qu'on peut atteindre le même jour après 1 h de marche (en 2016, mais les travaux avancent vite !). Ensuite Anmu-Phuktal se fait dans la journée. On ne passe pas à Purne, et si vous avez des chevaux, ils ne peuvent pas emprunter les nouvelles passerelles de Anmu et de Phuktal, ils sont obligés de passer à Cha et de rejoindre Phuktal directement par un sentier qui a été amélioré. De plus, il n'y a pas de place pour les chevaux à Phuktal et je ne sais pas comment font les horsemen. Yayta est un emplacement de camp avec une petite source d'une très bonne eau, mais à seulement 4h30 de Phuktal . Le problème est que le prochain bon emplacement (bon pour les hommes et pour les chevaux) se trouve près de Tantak soit 4h30 de plus. Le camp suivant se trouve entre le Nyalo Kongtse La et le Gotunta La, à 3h30 de Tantak et à 6h de Yayta. Avant d'attaquer les cols, un détour de 1h30, donc 3h aller-retour permet d'aller au bord du splendide lac de Tso Tok Phu. Tout ça représente beaucoup de combinaisons possibles pour les étapes dans ce secteur. Après le Gotunta La, on descend dans la vallée de Shun, inondée du 1er janvier au 5 mai 2016 par un grand lac dû à un glissement de terrain qui a complètement obstrué la vallée en aval de Marshun, et qui a craqué le 5 mai en détruisant tous les ponts existant jusqu'à Chiling. La passerelle de Marshun a été emportée, et on reste donc sur la rive droite de la Tsarap Chu. C'est là qu'on va rencontrer la Zara Chu, qui pose parfois de gros problèmes pour sa traversée. L'été dernier, en 2016, elle se passait facilement car il avait très peu neigé l'hiver précédent et beaucoup de torrents étaient à sec. Personne ne peut prédire ce que sera l'hiver prochain ! Après ça, c'est une série de up & down le long de la Tsarap jusqu'à la route avec une étape à Satak et une autre à Tsometsik. Faire Padum - route Manali-Leh en 7 jours est possible, mais il faut alors oublier le détour au Tso Tok Phu, et faire Yayta-NyaloKontseLa en une étape.
J'espère que tu auras les précisions de quelqu'un qui est allé se promener dans ces parages peu fréquentés. A +, J.L.
Bonjour et Joyeux Noël .
Après avoir bien réfléchi, nous avons abandonné le passage par la Kanji la et pensons passer par Nieraq , connaissez vous cette partie ?
Pour la deuxième partie , si la Zahra chu est impossible à traverser nous passerons par l'itinéraire classique en faisant une boucle pour Phuktal .
Depuis Phuktal combien de temps est il nécessaire si nous voulons tout de même aller au lac Tok Phu en A/R ?
Merci d' avance et Bonnes Fêtes
Je ne vais pas t'aider beaucoup. Je ne suis jamais passé par Nyerak. Je sais qu'il y a trois cols à passer : Le Nyerak La, 5000 m; le 1er jour, le Pangat La, 3900 m, le 2ème jour, et le Numtse La, 4430 m, le 3ème jour avant d'arriver à Zangla.
De Zangla, une traversée sauvage (car pas de villages et rarement des trekkeurs) permet de rejoindre Shade en 5 jours, puis Phuktal en 1 jour avec un détour au Tso Tok Phu, le tout en 10 h environ.
Sinon, De Phuktal au Tso Tok Phu, il faut compter 8 h 30, et autant pour le retour. On ne peut pas faire l'aller-retour dans la journée. Je vais au Tso Tpk Phu en allant ou en revenant de Shade, un des villages les plus isolés du Zanskar.
J'espère que ces nouvelles ne vont pas gâcher ton réveillon ! Meilleurs voeux pour 2017.
De Zangla, une traversée sauvage (car pas de villages et rarement des trekkeurs) permet de rejoindre Shade en 5 jours, puis Phuktal en 1 jour avec un détour au Tso Tok Phu, le tout en 10 h environ.
Sinon, De Phuktal au Tso Tok Phu, il faut compter 8 h 30, et autant pour le retour. On ne peut pas faire l'aller-retour dans la journée. Je vais au Tso Tpk Phu en allant ou en revenant de Shade, un des villages les plus isolés du Zanskar.
J'espère que ces nouvelles ne vont pas gâcher ton réveillon ! Meilleurs voeux pour 2017.
Ne t' inquiete pas 😉 je vais trouver une solution , l'important est de marcher dans ces beaux paysages ( tant qu'on peut 🤪 .....)
J' ai bien lu tout tes renseignements , et quelques questions me viennent , encore 😏 :
- je ne sais jusqu'ou la route va :Dorzon ou plus loin ? serait il possible de rejoindre Phuktal dans la journée depuis Padum ?
-Tantak est un passage obligé apres Phuktal et Yayta pour rallier les villages de Yarshun et Satak ? ou bien seulement pour accéder au lac Tok phu en A/R ? avec mon vieux guide Olizane j' arrive pas a me rendre compte !
Bonne année 2017
La route dépasse Dorzong et arrivait en août dernier tout près de Enmu. Enmu-Phuktal se fait en 6h. Le problème est de partir assez tôt de Padum, car il y a au moins 3h de piste en voiture.
Après Phuktal, Yayta est une source avec emplacements de camp à 4h30 de Phuktal. Pour aller au Tso Tok Phu, on ne va pas jusqu'à Tantak. On remonte la Tsarap en rive droite jusqu'à son confluent avec la Niri Chu qui arrive de la gauche, et on remonte alors la Niri Chu en rive droite jusqu'à une passerelle qui permet de passer rive gauche. Peu de temps après (environ 3h après Yayta), on arrive devant un petit pont sur le ruisseau qui descend du Tso Tok Phu. On ne passe pas ce pont, et on remonte sur la droite jusqu'au lac (environ 1h15). Au début, on suit le sentier qui conduit au Gotunta La puis à Marshun et Satak. Quand ce sentier attaque franchement la montée sur la droite, il faut le quitter et continuer plus ou moins dans le lit de la rivière, pas de sentier seulement quelques cairns de temps en temps jusqu'au lac, qu'on découvre au moment où l'on commence à avoir envie de faire demi-tour ! ! !
Après Phuktal, Yayta est une source avec emplacements de camp à 4h30 de Phuktal. Pour aller au Tso Tok Phu, on ne va pas jusqu'à Tantak. On remonte la Tsarap en rive droite jusqu'à son confluent avec la Niri Chu qui arrive de la gauche, et on remonte alors la Niri Chu en rive droite jusqu'à une passerelle qui permet de passer rive gauche. Peu de temps après (environ 3h après Yayta), on arrive devant un petit pont sur le ruisseau qui descend du Tso Tok Phu. On ne passe pas ce pont, et on remonte sur la droite jusqu'au lac (environ 1h15). Au début, on suit le sentier qui conduit au Gotunta La puis à Marshun et Satak. Quand ce sentier attaque franchement la montée sur la droite, il faut le quitter et continuer plus ou moins dans le lit de la rivière, pas de sentier seulement quelques cairns de temps en temps jusqu'au lac, qu'on découvre au moment où l'on commence à avoir envie de faire demi-tour ! ! !
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Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
Hi there,
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
hi
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
Hello,
I’ll be in Nepal from March 6th to 29th (we’re flying into Kathmandu via Varanasi and leaving via Delhi).
I’m a bit confused about the regulations requiring a guide.
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips. Here are my questions: - Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages) - I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share! Yann
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips. Here are my questions: - Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages) - I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share! Yann
Hello.
I’m a 56-year-old man who’s done several treks in Nepal and elsewhere. Also passionate about photography. I’m looking for one or more people to form a group for a trek in Nepal. The trek is the Annapurna and Manaslu circuit (24 days), including a stop at Tilicho Lake. I’ve got a great itinerary and the local company seems solid. The price is around $1600. I’ll be in Nepal from April 5 to May 12, 2026, so the trek would need to happen within those dates.
Daniel, Québec, Canada
I’m a 56-year-old man who’s done several treks in Nepal and elsewhere. Also passionate about photography. I’m looking for one or more people to form a group for a trek in Nepal. The trek is the Annapurna and Manaslu circuit (24 days), including a stop at Tilicho Lake. I’ve got a great itinerary and the local company seems solid. The price is around $1600. I’ll be in Nepal from April 5 to May 12, 2026, so the trek would need to happen within those dates.
Daniel, Québec, Canada